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WHO ISSN 2145-3063

UNDERWEAR COURSE
For sewing at home
(Intimate lingerie)

Module
s
Watch videos at:
www.hugoquili.com

COATS

- Step-by-step explanations.
- 4 volumes with more than 50 items. - Web
marketing to start your business. - Full-size
patterns in all sizes. - Clothing for women, girls,
men and boys. More than 55 videos with
explanations of sewing on domestic machines.

^Brushes

AH Royal

LUCENA
www.huqoquili.com

Watch videos www.minauri.com

on
 UNDERWEAR COURSE
INTIMATE LINGERIE COURSE
^iQUiU
(Intimate lingerie)

Underwear
CONTENT - French. Video >S
ISSN 2145-3063
- Inverted French.
INTRODUCTION -Lisping
Module 3
Creating and making inlima lingerie is very easy, and T0M01 Instructions and patterns
yes. Has knowledge of basic sewing, can create,
Module 1 ■ Patterns or molds
Coun video machines m Sewing rules
develop and produce a variety of garments with little Thread. Brazilian Silk Lace Thong Video al
practice Needle. Silk thong with butt. Video #2 ■ 2A
Fabrics and bionda. • Stretch Lace Panty Boobster, Video #6
Lace. • Long booty pantyhose for ladies and girls. Video #7
Elastics. • Ladies cheeky boxer panty. Video *8
To do this, you need to learn, know and apply some
Cups • Classic Panty Lady and Girl Video #9 and 9A
rules that will help you get started as a successful Accessories. • Panty .lito of basque leg Videom10
Module 2 • Panty allio leg design 1. Video «11
businesswoman with excellent financial results that are
Stretching elastics. Video #4 High leg panty design 2 Video #12
higher than your investment. Ways to glue elastics Brazilian soda stretch lace thong. Video #13
- Current Brazilian thong sodu d seño 2. Video >14
Three times - Silk Brazilian Thong with breast 3, Video 15

This manual has been created from the study of

industrial techniques, adapted to sewing on domestic
machines, supported by explanatory videos on our
website (www hugoquili.com).

The success of this program is great, if you put into

practice the advice we give you. making each garment
at least four times, to ensure Hegar is perfect before
going out to sell.
 VOLUME 2 Modules
Module 4 - Boxer shorts with buckle Video #23
Instructions and patterns ■ Shorts, men and boys. Video •24
Lady's panty without elastic in sleeves Video at 16 - TOO basic lady and girl, video #25
• Stately panty with front girdle. Video «17 Basic strappy top, lady and girl. Video 126
Long girdle panty in powermet Video *18
- Corse faja an power net Video UIS - Basic Olympic top, women and girls Video «27
• Bikini-style shorts, men and children. Video 20 Basic Olympic Strappy Top, Women and Girls Video «28
• Boxer shorts, men and children, model 1. video «21 - Top concopa, lady and girl. Video *29
- Boxer shorts, men and boys model 2 Video #22 - Youth bra. Video «30
VOLUME 3
Module €
Instructions and patterns
- Youthful contour bra. Video #31
Brazilian Thong Teda Design 4 Video #32
- Brazilian High Leg Silk Panty Video 33
High leg panty, design 3 Video *34 Miss brassiere 28 to 32 Model
1. Video #35
- Miss bra size 28 to 32. Model 2 with hoop. Video «36
- Ladies bra. Model 1 Video #37
Brassier lady Model 2 Video #38
Module?
- Stately brassier Model 1. video #39
• Stately brassier Model 2. Video #40
• Stately brassier Model 3. Video 341
• Long-sized stately bellow. Video «42
- Corset brassiere. Video #43
- Body Girdle Riama Video #44
VOLUME 4
Module"
Instructions and patterns
- Underwire bra with contour, vertical cut cup, video #46
- Underwire bra with back, short vertical cup Video #47
- Underwire bra with contour, horizontal cut cup. Video *48
Underwire bra with spade, horizontal cut cup. Video *49
- Strapless bra. Video «SO
- Ore shaped cup straple bra Video #51
- Long-waisted strapless bra Video «54
- Strapless bra with pre-formed cup long waist Video #53
Module 9
- Preformed cup bra, model 1. Video «54
Performed cup brassier, model 2 Video 455
- Brassier on piths Video «56
• Turn measurements
Adjustment to the tails due to reduction of elasticity
ABC cup management
Adaptation to large breasts with small contour.
Adaptation to small breasts with large contours.
- Body > nt mo. Video #57

SINGER
- zig-zag in three steps.
MODULE 1
■Stitch selector

g\ / / /
MAIN WAREHOUSE CALI
/V
THE MACHINES:
To make intimate lingerie at home, you need a domestic machine with a standard
1 VVV Viargoy v
zig-zag stitch, and even better if it has three steps or a three-step stitch. As a Zig-zag width adjuster ------------------------------------------
complement to improve the finishes of the garments, you need a 304-thread
overlock sewing machine with reinforcement stitch. Thread tensioner

- Stitch length adjuster

Although many myths have been created about the impossibility of making
underwear on domestic machines, at an industrial level, there are a variety of Positioning the needle to the center
machines that specialize in a specific operation, such as: Gluing elastics. close, left and right
dock or finish, hem, cut, etc.

We have debunked these myths by studying industrial techniques, adapting and

creating methods that replace and adjust to home machines.

The domestic machine is the most important and I want to clarify what
recommendations should be taken into account when choosing its main work tool.
The domestic overlock machine for sewing underwear must have the
following characteristics.
* There are a variety of brands, and for this reason you should choose a
recognized store that guarantees technical support, good instruction in the use of
the machine and very importantly a recognized brand like BROTHER - JANOME -
SINGER since there is a great variety of unknown brands on the market that do It should be 3 or 4 threads with reinforcement stitching, just like on the home
not guarantee excellent performance when sewing elastic fabrics. machine. The brand and the store where we buy it can make a difference.

For underwear and swimwear it is advisable to thread with nylon thread.

The domestic machine for sewing underwear must have the following When threading a serger
characteristics: (overlock) it is threaded through
the lower luper 1. Then the upper
- Straight stitch or straight stitch. luper 2 and finally the needles 3

right punch (length 1)

medium puncture to (length 2)

long stitch l length 4) sK

-current zigzag.
type buttonhole (length 05 -F) small zig-zag length ' -width 2)

wwwwwww WW • Sewing Machines

Filters • Weavers • Embroiderers • Pineapples •
Zig-zag dune (length 2 - width 3) Zig-zag width (length 4 - width S) Original Recollections
-Guaranteed Technical Service
WWW \/ • Academy

Principal: Carrera 9 No 10-39 Tels.: 8B0 8746-8841763-884

1410Calie-mail
: singerprincipal@hotmail com
THE NEEDLE: NEEDLE - THREAD - SEWING MACHINE RELATIONSHIP.
It must be ball point or called gold point. These needles slide better through the threads of elastic fabrics and should be It is very important to have an excellent relationship between the needle and the thread and the tension of the
gauge 9, 10 or 11. machine.
- YEAH. The thread is thick and the needle is thin, the thread will break continuously.
- Yeah. The needle is thick and the thread is thin, the stitches will skip continuously.
- Yeah. the tension is too strong the seam will gather.
- YEAH. the tension is too light the stitch will be loose.
Recommendation Perform tests with pieces of dried garlic and garlic with which they are prepared. since the
They are marked with yellow on one of the tips or on their crown, they vary in color depending on the manufacturer (pink -
tensions change according to the thickness and texture of the fabric
red - green - blue). The color only indicates that the tip is round.
FABRICS, LACES AND LACE.

They are divided into three groups

Elastic: These are those that stretch lengthwise and widthwise. Example I
Needles wear out and must be changed after sewing for a long time. They also become blunt when they hit the
ycra, cotton lycra (cotton lycra or flannel lycra), mallatex, some ferro lace for
presser foot of the machine, so they must be changed immediately.
swimsuits.
The thin gauge of the needle allows for cleaner stitching, docking and finishing.
Semi-elastic: These are those that stretch in only one direction. Example: Flannel
(single nid). mirror lycra, powernet, elastic lace, some lace.

The rigid ones: These are the breasts that do not stretch in length or width. Example
Lace for bras, triloval, lace, silk, poplin, etam na, etc.

To sew elastic or semi-elastic fabrics, the threads must have the following
characteristics: ELASTICS or ELASTIC BANDS.
Cotton and polyester blends, be lubricated, have an elongation of 5% to 10%. and most
importantly, it must be 120 gauge to achieve excellent seams and good finishes or dockings. It is a set of threads intertwined in elastic latex cylinders, the i ■. A special feature is that they
The threads must be thin and lubricated nylon. can recover their shape and extension when the force that deformed them is removed. In
underwear and swimwear, this force is what serves to adjust to the skin and shape the
garment.

There are four types of elastics for underwear and swimwear, these are divided
according to the function they perform in the garment, as follows: - Elastic for panty.
These high elasticity (100%) sor have a soft texture, they come in 5mm width.
■ Bra straps. They are benches with little elasticity and texture

harder, they serve as a carrier. They come in various widths depending on the weight
needs of the breast. Currently, a skinny or spaghetti strap elastic cord is produced for
the tops or tips of bra cups.
• Current elastic. It is an elastic band without decoration on the edges. Due to the
elasticity, men's underwear, swimwear, tops and some bras are usually always kept
inside the fabrics.
- Elastic bias. It is a thin elastic band with a central mark to fold when joining the
garments, it comes in a smooth presentation, with blackberries when folded or with
pleated edges on the edges.

PREFORMED CUPS.
MODULE 2
They are the latest fashion in the manufacture of bras, they are made of foam rubber or wadding, they serve to
enhance and give a better shape to the breasts. STRETCHING THE ELASTICS.
The stretch should be very gentle, from the needle measure
5cm, from that point is 1 centimeter. After stretching, the
fabric is assembled and together they are stretched again 1
centimeter more. starting the seam helping from behind.
Watch video at www.huqoqu III corn with #4

ACCESSORIES.
Recommendation Before starting your actual sewing, test it on your 6cm wide fabric strips in cotton lycra, lace or elastic
They are made up of various models depending on the needs of the garments and the taste of the person. Such as lace that you are going to sew, to check the stitches, the adjustment of the machine to the fabric and especially the
rods, badges, pins, monkeys or tension loops, rings, flat side rods, labels, bows, etc. stretch of the elastics.
Recommendation When choosing the rods or rings for the cup bra, you should buy a variety of sizes to adjust them to WAYS TO SEW ELASTICS.
the garment. In home-made clothing, I recommend round rods, so that the curve can be adjusted to the garment: at
an industrial level, the patterns are prepared according to the rods or rings that are bought wholesale.

To sew elastics into underwear and swimwear, 5 shapes or styles are used, each of which can be applied according to
the taste of each person, adjusting to the pressure needs required by each body and the elegance of the garment.

This course has led to a list of home machines, and this must have:
■ Three-step zig zag that can be adjusted in width and length

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(GOES
1 CURRENT:
It is done with a regular zig zag. very wide and very long
• Fold the fabric half a centimeter and overlap the elastic, leaving 2 millimeters
to see the blackberries. - Start sewing by lowering the needle and pulling in the
elastic, 5 plus 1cm lower the fabric, stretching the fabric and elastic one more
centimeter. - help from behind, since the machine's cylinders do not provide
enough drag or pulling force to pull the machine.

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^Corset
Lace
Lycras
Vettas h alites - Estamadis -Lmaeda •
Lace Ced n Ttkes Akochads s -fesstet Fer
QCadys 'Elena 'Hurlado Pérez Elastic Nis»FeKilt
ACCESSORIES FOR CORSETRY Powernet
(ustavo V lesurm BaraWaporetas in,
Magazines
Bias =34 2494
Bcndeo
Ave. 52C No 41 - 09 South ' Alquena Neighborhood - Bogotá Latex
Tel: 238 42 24 - 711 27 19 / Email: elcorsetero@hotmail.com supplies for interior repair
2. THREE TIMES:
Find the three-step stitch on your machine, with maximum zag width
and stitch length in one and three-quarters < before 2).
• Fold the fabric half a centimeter, overlapping the elastic leaving 2
millimeters to see the blackberries - start sewing by lowering the
needle, stretch the elastic. 5 plus 1 cm. - lower the fabric • stretch the
fabric and elastic one centimetre more - start sewing by helping from
behind, since the machine teeth do not have enough drag or force to
pull the fabric

3. FRENCH:
It is done in these steps, the elastic is placed on the fabric by placing
the edge without blackberries on the right side and edge of the fabric
with a medium-wide and medium-long zig zag, near the edge of the
blackberries through the channel that the elastic has.
Then the elastic is turned to the wrong side of the fabric and is sewn
along the other edge with a medium-wide and medium-long zig zag.
Note In the French style it stretches only half a centimeter

4. REVERSED FRENCH:
In this style, regular elastic is used and is kept in place. First, the regular elastic is
sewn onto the wrong side of the fabric. This first step is done in two ways: the
first with a serger (overlock) with a long stitch, and the second way with a regular
zig zag that is very wide and very long, leaving half a centimeter of fabric, which
is then cut when it is folded and sewn.
To seat the elastic, you can do it in four ways:
■ With two or three thread collar machine.
- With chain stitch that imitates straight sewing.

- With three-step zig zag WHO

With a medium-wide and medium-long current zig zag.

Watch the video at www.hugoquili.com or

5. ELASTIC BIAS: YouTube with the title Intimate Clothing Course or
The elastic bias is sewn at an industrial level with a collar (collar) Intimate Lingerie Course. Videos 4 and 5
6 with chain stitch. In this course it will be done with a regular zig-
zag and a three-step zig-zag, stitches that your domestic
machine has.

1 .- With standard zig zag: The stitch length is 2.

And the zig-zag width in 3

2.-With a three-step zig zag.

First, look for the three-step stitch with a
length of 1 and 3/4 before 2. and a very wide zig zag WHO

Boxer Shorts In Elastic Shrinkage

VIDEO6NODULO3 Web ideas for
your projects of immediate
interest

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Tongo Seda Braskero Gen E nooje In Cniro ■

VIDEO13 MODULE 3

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 INSTRUCTION MANUAL
PATTERNS OR MOLDS. - 2 x size Number of times the pattern is cut
The patterns that are delivered in this course already have - Lace mulberries; Lace waves, figured edge of lace

half a centimeter of seam, they come in half, they must be - Rod: Arch, support, whale, hoop. It is the piece that gives
shape and form to the cups of the bra or the side
taken complete in Interlón (bare) or cartull na to improve the - Single-nit: Cotton fabric used in the crotch of the panty,

cut, ast /IV /I they also come combined with polyester to give more
resistance and shine.
This is how they come This is how they look
Idea for the layout on the fabric to obtain better use and

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better cost the garments

MEANINGS

- Bra Support -35

- Panty Braga, panties, underpants. IQUfLT

• Crotch: Piece that joins the front of the panty with the back
Center, reinforcement, bat, chochero, cuquero, bridge

- Swimsuit: Bathing suit, chingue.

- Shorts! Men's underwear

- Shorts: men's pear-shaped swimsuit.

* Elastic: Elastic rubber band, spring. league.

- Bra strap: Loader.

- Badge: Cloth brooch, brooch, faxter.

- Cotton Lycra: France Lycra, cotton Lycra, cotton Lycra.

This part of the course will be dedicated to informing about -Triloval: Glitter, angel skin
the changes in vocabulary in the different countries and
regions where the sewing of underwear and swimwear is - End: Docking, clip
practiced.
These terms are provided for a better understanding of the • Serging: Overlock, closing machine, serger.
handling of breasts, patterns and sewing of garments.
- Powernet: Paverne, all the way.
- The patterns have a double arrow that indicates which
side of the fabric should stretch more, it is called elongation
in elastic fabrics and thread elongation in rigid fabrics. "Watch the video on youtube HUGOQUIUó
on the page www
dorgadin ó toe Q iras:án a ta
" D Double fabric or fold of fabric .hugoquili.com

SEWING RULES FOR INTIMATE WEAR.

1 * All lace is sewn over a stretch fabric with a zig zag stitch, medium in width and medium in length. See details in
elvidoo#11 Móul64

2 - Use a straight seam on an elastic fabric, it should be very long to avoid ripples in the breasts. In swimsuits and
underwear, straight seams are only used to join the cups and sides of bras, and in the middle of panties (underpants
or briefs). also to baste the linings of bathing suits.

3 The overlock serger. The closing machine or serger used to sew underwear and suits must be 304 threads with no
reinforcement stitch. In underwear and beach sewing, closing machines (overlock, serger) with a safety stitch
should not be used, since the safety seam may burst when stretched and elasticated.
3. - CoI bias 6la30 «n uncture by « edge of the fabric or in
the case of elastic lace by

4 - When the seamer is not dyed (fileteadora. overlock, serger) the garments are closed with a zig zag Behind the blackberries of the fall________
Comment medium wide and medium long, half a centimeter from the edge of the sheet, then trim ___________________________/
•I left over from the te am j and close the
threads.
5 - Yes, if you want to combine the front in elastic fabric of a panty with a rigid lace, the rigid material will add 2
cantimeters on the sides

6. When starting to sew an elastic, you should leave a surplus of 3 centimeters so that when you start it does not
fray or twist. See details in videos M and 5 with the tool HOW TO SEW ELASTICS.

? -When you start sewing elastic and you reach another point, stop sewing, leave the needle down, RAISE THE
FOOT OR PRESSER FOOT, so that the elastics are released, lower the presser foot and continue sewing one
centimeter, then sew or finish with a straight or zigzag stitch. Buttonhole. Note: With this process, waves or ridges •n www.hugoqu com
are not formed. See details in video #9 Module 4

8. -All the patterns and templates in this course already have a half-centimeter seam allowance.

0 ■ When sewing elastic on a POWERNET type fabric or thick fabrics, a minimum amount of stretching should be SEWING STEPS X- Continue along the waist (drawing A) with the
given, so it is ideal for sewing lace. measurements from the size chart on the pattern, and
then continue along the leg neckline of the crotch
10 - For bra cups, rigid or semi-elastic lace fabrics should be used to fulfill the support and adjustment function, in towards the bottom. Before reaching the end, cut the
addition to preformed cups. excess bias diagonally at the tip of the crotch.
When you reach the bias cut diagonally, embrace the
11 • The blades of the arassieres are cut in elastic and elastic maxrials unstretched Colo (dbuo B) and continue closing,
leaving a length of between 12 and 16 cm for the
12 -At the time of sewing the bra cups, the upper cup goes underneath and since it has a stronger curvature, the detrattero uro
piece that has the most curve always goes on top.

13 . • When the bra cups are ready and are going to be attached to the base contour, first sew the left cup from the
center to the armhole and then the right cup from the armhole to the center. 1. - Overlock or serge the top of the reinforcement and
sew it to the front along the edges of the leg section 4. Find the back
with a current zig-zag, leaving 1cm of fabric on each center of the
14 - Bra straps or straps have the following measurements in their free part (the part that is not attached to the bra):
side, then trim the excess fabric. ) waist and sew the
Size 30 = 40cm, size 32 = 42cm, size 34 = 44cm, size 30 = 4Bcm, size 38 = 48cm, size 4B = 50cm Yes, the back of the
crotch strip in an
bra has a scoop. It is increased as the bra or load is carried out
I-shaped bias with
a strong finish,
15 . ■ When making a finish, it is recommended to sew a zigzag buttonhole type stitch. This when sewing three or
covering the
straps, also find the leg and waist straps
finish with a bow
When finishing or docking an elastic bias in domestic machines, it is done with a three-step zigzag, very wide and Copyright reserved Work and pettrone original of
zero (0)d long, first to the Carocha and then to the left. the Designer Hgo Qul pera Lucena ediores SAS
Registration ISSN
16 - When sewing the rod or ring bias around the cup, you must first sew the elastic around the cup, and when you No 21453063 Reproduction prohibited botal 9 for to tame with a
commercial
pass it under the cup, the elastic stretches very little. • 023388” purposes all exchanges are free
metalco.
especially in the media web page .blgs, facebook
tweeter Etc. So
be it mentioning the strong
Avoid sanctions and suspensions of your pages or
blogs.
 Brazilian thong
video 2 silk thong
LADY'S BOXER IN WOMEN'S BOXER CHEEKS
ELASTIC LACE Video 6 -
Module 3 Plate 1

front and rear triangle. Basic sewing instructions: - Close with front pull at
SEWING STEPS stitches 2 to 3. - Close back shot by points 1 to 2 -
Close between the legs by points 4. 2 to 4 - Finish off or
tie off the ends. - Overlock the crotch along all four
edges - Sew the crotch over the seams using 4
diamond-shaped stitches - If desired, you can glue
decorative elastic to the waist
Basic sewing instructions: - Center and hem inner
WOMEN'S BOXER SHORTS - crotch to outer crotch - Sew crotch to front and back. -
1. - Make a hem, overlock or serge along the top of GIRL'S LONG Close the sides - Hem one and a half centimeters for
the reinforcement and sew to the front along the the sleeves - Glue elastic to the waist
edges of the leg neckline in a current zig-zag
pattern, leaving 1cm of fabric on each side
afterwards.
^trim the excess or the whole thing CLASSIC PANTY LADY ■ GIRL
Video 9 -9A- Module 3 .

Basic sewing instructions: - Center and hem inner

lace behind the lace blackberries, in crotch to outer crotch - Sew crotch to front and back -
Close along sides - Hem one and a half centimeters per
the front the bias is cut at the edge of
sleeve - Glue elastic to waist.
the lace and in the back 5cm of bias
I crotch
is left for the finish or docking.

BIAS DESIGN 2
Video 12 - Module 3
Join sides to fronts, overlapping the front by half a

Basic sewing instructions: SILK THONG WITH LACE AT THE WAIST

Panty lady - Join crotch to front and back. Close the Video 13-Module 3 Location: Plate 3
sides. Glue elastic in three sections and legs *. Glue
elastic to the waist.
Panty girl - Join crotch to front and back. - Glue elastic
bias or girl's elastic on each leg - Close on one side -
Glue elastic bias or girl's elastic on the waist and the
HIGH LEG PANTY FOR ELASTIC
other leg - Fasten or finish as shown in the videos

BASIC HIGH LEG PANTY for elastic BIAS DESIGN 1

bias Video 11 - Module 3 Fapcna Locations
BRAZILIAN SILK THONG DESIGN 3
Basic sewing instructions:
Video 10-Module 3 Join sides to forwards overlapping half a centimeter to
Basic sewing instructions: By changing materials such as the front. - Join crotch to front and back - Glue elastic
classic lace, lycra, mallatex, or printed lycra cottons, a bias to legs Close on one side Glue elastic bias to waist
variety of designs can be achieved, starting from the and the other leg. - Dock or finish off as shown in the

Basic sewing instructions:

centimetre ■ Join crotch to front and back. Glue elastic
bias to legs - Close along side seams. - Glue elastic bias
on tack and the other leg - Dock or finish off as shown in
the videos

same pattern.
- Join crotch to front and back. - Glue elastic bias
along legs. - Close on one side. - Glue elastic bias on
waist and the other leg. Dock or finish as shown in the
videos
videos.

HIGH LEG PANTY FOR ELASTIC

* Thread the edge of the crotch * Join the crotch to the front and back. Attach elastic bias tape along the seams - Close the waistband at the center front. - Glue elastic lace on front and back looking for centers - Dock or finish as shown in the videos

BRAZILIAN SILK THONG DESIGN 2

Video 14 • Module 3 Location: Plate 3
Basic sewing instructions: bias to sides Glue elastic to legs and waist, leaving back as shown in the videos. - Filet the edge of the crotch. - Join crotch to front and
- Sew the edge of the inseam - Join crotch to front and elastic biases of 22cm on the sides for size S, 24cm for back. - Glue elastic bias tape to legs and waist - Sew
back - Glue elastic bias to legs and waist • Glue elastic size M, and 26cm for size L - Bind or finish biases on the Basic sewing instructions: strips to ends of front and back waists - Tie or finish off
the ribbons as shown in the videos
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BOXER
IN ELASTIC LACE
SIDESvideo
6 - Module 4
2 X size elastic
lace
* elongacon oesuramemo cotew •
(side that roas stretches)

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