LECTURE-01

Fundamental knowledge on fabric

 FABRIC
The term fabric can be defined as a planner structure, constructed from
solution, fibers or yarns produced by - interweaving (interlacing,
interlacement), interlooping and intertwining.

It is a manufactured assembly of fibers and/or yarns that has substantial

surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient mechanical
strength to give the assembly inherent cohesion.
The most commonly used fabric
forming methods are-
 Weaving
 Braiding
 Knitting
 Felting
 Tufting and
 Nonwoven manufacturing.

However, major method of fabric construction is weaving.

 Weaving

Weaving is the interlacing of warp and

filling yarns perpendicular to each
other.

There are practically an endless

number of ways of interlacing warp
and filling yarns. Each different way
results a different fabric structure.

Approximately 70% of the fabrics

made in the world are woven fabrics.
Figure shows the diagram of woven
fabrics.
 Features of Simple Structure

 Ends and picks are interlaced at right angle.

 Threads parallel to each other.
 Only one series of ends and picks
Features of Compound Structure

 More than one series of ends and picks.

 Threads are not parallel to each other
 many pile surface construction, e.g. towel.
Classification of Basic Woven Structures
Plain weave
Derivatives of plain weave
Warp rib weave

Rib Weave Towels, Linen

Weft Rib Weave
Matt Weave
Fancy Matt Weave
Twill Weave
Zigzag/ Pointed Twill Weave
Herringbone Twill
Diamond Design
Broken twill weave
Rearrange twill weave
 Satin
Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface
and a dull back. The satin weave is characterized by
four or more fill or weft yarns floating over a warp
yarn or vice versa, four warp yarns floating over a
single weft yarn.
Classification of satin weave

Knitting
Knitting is the second most important method of fabric formation.
 Knitting is a process of manufacturing a fabric by inter looping of
yarns.
 It can be defined as a needle technique of fabric formation, in which,
with the help of knitting needles , loops are formed to make a fabric or
garment.
 Fabric can be formed by hand or machine knitting , but the basic
principle remains exactly the same i.e. pulling a new loop through the
old loop.
Types of Knitting
Weft Knitting:

Weft knits are constructed from one

yarn that is fed into knitting machine
needles in a horizontal direction. Also
called filling.

Warp Knitting :

Warp knit fabrics are constructed with

yarn loops formed in a vertical or warp
direction.
 Weft Knitting

 Weft or filling knits is the most common type used to produce textile
knitted products.

 Weft knits are constructed from one yarn which is fed into a knitting
machine in a horizontal direction.

 weft knit may be knitted with multiple yarns to produce interesting

pattern design.

 Both flat bed and circular knitting machines can be used to make
weft knit.

 Few types or technique used to manufacture weft knit structure are

Single jersey, Purl, interlock and Rib.
 Single Jersey Stitch
Plain knit structure is the simplest and most basic structure. It's also
called single knit structure. It's produced by the needles of one set of
needle with all the loops intermeshed in the same direction.
Features of plain knit structures

We can identify the plain knit structure fabrics as following properties-

 The fabric is unbalanced and different appearance on face and back side.
V shapes on face and Arcs on back.
 Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate (10-20%) and
widthwise extensibility is high (30-50%).
 The fabric extensibility area is moderate to high.
 The fabric is thicker and warmer than plain woven made from same yarn.
 The plain knit structure can be easily unraveled from the edge which was
knitted last. Unroving either end.
 The fabric has tendency to curl. Fabric less stable and curls when cut.
 End-uses
 Used for making sweaters, terry robes, t-shirts, men’s underwear
and dresses.
 Used form making hosiery.
 Also used for making fully fashion garments.
 Rib Fabric
 Rib fabric is a double jersey knitted fabric with vertical rows (wales) of
loops. It's requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so
that wales of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each
side of the fabric .
 Simplest rib fabric is 1 x 1 rib having alternate wales knitted to the front
and back.
 The ribs tend to close up to create a double faced fabric, which has the
same appearance on both sides.
 Rib knits fabrics are produced with the knitting machines having two sets
of needle, normally positioned at rights angle to each other.
Features of rib structure:

We can identify the Rib structure fabrics as following properties-

 Same appearance in both sides of rib fabric. Like face of plain.

 Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate and widthwise
extensibility is very high (50-100%).
 The fabric extensibility area is high.
 The fabric is much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
 Rib structures can be unraveled from the edge knitted last.
 Unroving only form end knitted last.
 No tendency to curl.
 More expensive to produce.
 More stretch crosswise than length wise and edges do not curl.
 End-uses
 Used for making Collars and cuffs and necklines.
 Used for doing bottom edges of sweaters.
 Used for making double knits jackets, knit hats and men’s hosiery.
 Interlock structures
Interlock stitch knits are variations in rib stitch knits.

Interlock is produce on a cylinder and dial circular weft knitting

machine, with alternate long and short needles opposite to each other on
cylinder and dial.
 Features of Interlock Structure:
 It is a reversible fabric.
 Same appearance on both sides, like face of plain.
 Lengthwise extensibility is moderate and widthwise extensibility is
moderate
 Extensibility area is moderate.
 Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
 Unroving only from end knitted last.
 No tendency to curl.
 It is heavier and thicker as compare to rib and it does not curl at the
edges.
 It is a good insulator.
 Costlier fabric .
 End-uses
 Used for making Skirt, blouses and t-shirts.
 Used as an outwear fabric for making dresses.
 Purl knit structures

A simple purl fabric looks

like the back of jersey knit on
the both side of the fabric.

Purl knit structures is the

third family of knit structures.
As with rib structures, it's
requires the participation of
both needle beds for the
production of the loops.

Purl fabrics are made on

knitting machines called purl
knit machines or links-or-
links machines.
Features of Purl structure:

 Same appearance on both sides. Like back of plain.

 Lengthwise extensibility is very high and widthwise extensibility is
high.
 The fabric extensibility area is very high.
 Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
 Unroving either end.
 No tendency to curl.
 The production process of purl knit is slow.
 Good stretch in all direction but stretches out of shape easily.
End uses

 Used for making infant and children’s wear.

 Used for making sweaters and scarves.
 Used for doing fancy garment parts.
 Warp Knitting
 Warp knitted fabric is produced from a set of warp yarn. It is parallel
knitted to each other down the length of the fabric.
 More resistant to laddering than weft knits.
 Tricot fabric
 Tricot is very common fabric for making lingerie.
 Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant.
 A soft and 'drapey' texture with some lengthwise stretch and almost no
crosswise stretch.
 The right side of the fabric has fine lengthwise ribs while the reverse
has crosswise ribs.
 Raschel Knits

 Raschel knits are produced from spun or filament yarns of different

weights and types.
 Made out of conventional or novelty yarns which allows for
interesting textures and designs to be created.
 It is coarser than other warp knit fabrics.
 Used for making lace fabric and trimmings.
 Milanese Knits
 It is made from two sets of yarn knitted diagonally, which results in
the face fabric having a fine vertical rib and the reverse having a
diagonal structure.

 Milanese fabric is superior to tricot in smoothness, elasticity,

regularity of structure & friction resistance.

 It is stronger, more stable, smoother and more expensive than tricot.

 Stitch-Bonding Knits
 Stitch-Bonding is a special form of warp knitting and is commonly
used for the production of composite materials and technical textiles.
 Fabrics produced with this process offer the potential of using
“sensitive fiber materials such as glass and carbon with only little
damage, non-crimp fiber orientation and variable distance between
threads”.
 The advantages of includes its high productivity rate and the scope it
offers for functional design of textiles, such as fiber-reinforced plastics
 Being used in fields as wind energy generation and aviation.
 Braiding
Braiding is probably the simplest way of fabric formation. A braided fabric is formed
by diagonal interlacing of yarns.

Braiding, in textiles, machine or hand method of interlacing three or more yarns or

bias-cut cloth strips in such a way that they cross one another and are laid together in
diagonal formation, forming a narrow strip of flat or tubular fabric. The word plaiting is
generally applied when such materials as rope or straw are employed.

Braids are frequently used as trimming or binding. Flat braid may be used to produce a
decorative border effect on garments or home furnishings or may be folded over raw
fabric edges as a finishing method. Braids may be sewn together to make braided rugs.
Hats, handbags, and belts can also be made from various braids, including plastic and
straw types.
 Tufting
Tufting is a type of textile weaving
in which a thread is inserted on a
primary base. After the knitting is
done, short U-shaped loops of extra
yarn are introduced through
the fabric from the outside so that
their ends point inwards (e.g.,
towards the hand inside the mitten).
The fabric is usually back-coated in
a later process to secure tufted
loops. Orientation of tuffed loops is
shown in Figure.
 Felting

Felt is produced as these fibers and/or fur are pressed together using heat,
moisture, and pressure. Felt is generally composed of wool that is mixed
with synthetic in order to create sturdy, resilient felt for craft or industrial
use. However, some felt is made wholly from synthetic fibers.
 Nonwoven fabric
Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fiber (short)
and long fibers (continuous long), bonded together by chemical,
mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile
manufacturing industry to note fabrics, such as felt, which are
neither woven nor knitted. Some nonwoven materials has lack sufficient
strength unless densities or reinforced by a backing.
 Definition:
 A woven narrow fabric, generally plain weave used in non-load-bearing
applications and the reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation.
 Features:
 It is a single ply woven narrow fabric.
 Usually plain weave is used and also simple twill or zigzag twill can be used.
 Width maximum 18” in UK standard and 12” in USA standard.
 Weight is less than webbing, 850gm/ 100 m of 25 mm width.
 Used in non-load bearing application.
 Material used for tap are-Cotton, Polyester, Nylon, Glass-fiber. Weight less
than webbing Used in non-load bearing applications Superior heat
resistance Superior flame retardant A narrow strip of strong woven fabric,
as that used in sewing or bookbinding. A continuous narrow, flexible strip of
cloth, metal, paper, or plastic, such as adhesive tape, magnetic tape, or
ticker tape. A string stretched across the finish line of a racetrack to be
broken by the winner.
 End-Use:
 For binding tape as file covers.
 Dimensionally stable nylon tape coated with poly-
urethane is used as dividing tape.
 Used as Wicks (100% cotton).
 Identification of garments in laundering.
 For spindle drive in Ring Spinning.