Log Out (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ten-principles-of-clean-cutting/?

logout=subscription
      Search 

(https://www.facebook.com/woodworkersjournal)
(https://twitter.com/woodworkersjrnl)
(https://pinterest.com/woodworkersjrnl/)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/feed/)
(https://www.youtube.com/WoodworkersJournal)
(https://www.instagram.com/woodworkersjou
How-To  Plans Videos Premium Content Magazine Store (https://www.rockler

A DV ERT I S E ME N T

TEN PRINCIPLES OF CLEAN CUTTING

 (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/feed/)
WOODTURNING
B
BYY A
AMMEER
RIIC
CAAN
NAASSSSO
OCCIIAT
ATIIO
ONNO
OFF W
WOOO
ODT
DTU
URRN
NEER
RSS
((H
HTTTTPPSS::////W
WWWW.W
W.WO OOODDW
WO ORRKKEER RSSJJO
OUUR
RNNA
ALL..C
COOM
M//A
AUUTTH
HOOR
R//A
AMMEER
RIIC
CAAN
N--A
ASSSSO
OCCIIAT
ATIIO
ONN--O
OFF--
WWO OOODT
DTU UR RN
NEER
RSS//)) •• A
APPR
R 1111,, 22001199

A DV ERT I S E ME N T

This article, “Ten Principles of Clean Cutting,” by Kip Christensen, is from the pages of American
Woodturner and is brought to you by the America Association of Woodturners (AAW)
(https://www.woodturner.org) in partnership with Woodworker’s Journal.

Thirty-five years ago, while I was a student at Brigham Young University (BYU), I
attended a woodturning demo in which Del Stubbs covered the underlying principles
of clean cutting. Del explained there are universal principles that always apply to
cutting material, including wood, and that we can usually trace poor results in
woodturning back to the violation of one or more of these principles.

I was only able to attend the first few minutes of Del’s presentation, but over the years
I compiled my own list of principles involved in getting a clean cut when woodturning.
YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:
What follows is a discussion of these principles with guidance for applying them.
Throughout this article, the applications are discussed mostly in relation to spindle
turning but can be applied to bowl turning, as well.

Principle 1: Tool Sharpness

 Turn a Natural-Edge Green-Wood
Bowl
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.c
a-natural-edge-green-wood-
bowl/)

The fine “angel hair” shavings from a skew’s

shearing cut indicate a clean cut along the wood’s
sidegrain.

Sharp tools give clean cuts; dull tools do not. None of the other principles matter
much if your tool isn’t sharp, so check your tool sharpness first. Turn a Faceplate for Your Lathe
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.c
Application faceplate-lathe/)

While I was a student at BYU, I watched Richard Raffan give a presentation on how to
turn a bowl. It was an excellent demo, but what made the biggest impression on me
was what he modeled about the importance of keeping a sharp tool. Richard was a
production turner at the time and knew that every wasted second impacted his
efficiency. He had us position a grinder near the lathe and to his left, not even a full
step away from where he stood to turn. A few minutes into the demonstration, he
noticed that his cutting tool had lost its keen edge, so he turned the grinder on,
sharpened his tool with a quick free-hand stroke, and went back to turning without
Creating Chasing Threads on a
switching the grinder off. Richard left the grinder running during his entire demo and
Lathe
sharpened frequently. He was not content to work for even a few seconds with a dull (https://www.woodworkersjournal.c
tool. chasing-threads-lathe/)

In teaching classes and workshops, I have noticed that many people avoid sharpening
their tools. They may doubt their ability to sharpen properly or may be afraid of
making the tool worse. They may also be concerned with wasting precious tool steel
or are simply reluctant to take time away from turning. To encourage yourself to make
sharpening a priority, strive to eliminate any obstacles that make it less likely for you
to sharpen your tools. Get good sharpening equipment and position it very near your
lathe. Keep it free of clutter; learn how to use it.

Do not allow yourself to work with tools that have lost their keen edge. A sharp tool is Woodturners Challenge
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.c
a pleasure to work with and will give clean, efficient cuts. Turning with a dull tool
challenge/)
gives poor results and can be an exercise in frustration.

Principle 2: Grain Direction

The orientation of wood grain in relation to the direction of the cut significantly
impacts how wood responds to being cut. There are two key concepts here: one,
wood fibers being cut should be supported by adjacent fibers, and two, sidegrain
cutting should be maximized and endgrain, minimized.

Applications

Sign Up
It doesn’t take long for new woodworkers to discover that wood fibers unsupported by
other wood fibers (or not supported in some other way) tear when being cut, leaving a
rough surface. Common examples of this include tearout on the bottom side of drilled
holes and “blowout” at the end of a board when planing, jointing, or routing.

Arrows show optimal direction of cut for turning in spindle, or parallel grain,
orientation. (Figures: David Heim)

Parallel Orientation

In spindle turning, with the grain running parallel to the lathe bed, it is best to cut
“downhill” (from large diameter to small). You can understand this lesson by trying
two contrasting approaches to cutting a cove. If a cove were cut from both sides
downward toward the middle, the wood fibers being cut would be supported by fibers
underneath them, resulting in a smooth surface. Conversely, if a cove were cut in one
sweep, going down one side and up the other, the upward cut, from small diameter to
large, would be going into endgrain fibers, which are more apt to tear when cut head-
on. Also, the unsupported fibers at the very end of the cut (at the top of the cove)
would tear out as the tool exits. Thus, when cutting coves, V-grooves, beads,
shoulders, and tapers while spindle turning, the best results will come from cutting
from large diameter to small.

The goblet form is a study in coves. Note that by cutting from large diameter to small
on the outside and from small to large on the inside, you will avoid cutting directly
into endgrain.

Perpendicular Orientation
 Print

344
Like

Post Direction of cut depends on grain orientation. Shear-cutting “downhill,” from

large diameter to small, on a sphere with the grain parallel to lathe bed.

Beginning turners understandably have difficulty applying this concept to workpieces

mounted with the grain running perpendicular to the lathe bed. When turning a
sphere, for example, the wood initially is mounted with the grain parallel to the lathe
bed, allowing for clean cutting from large diameter to small.

Shears craping “uphill,” from small diameter to large, with sphere repositioned and its
grain perpendicular to the lathe bed.perpendicular to the lathe bed.

But once the sphere is roughed into shape, it is then remounted between cup chucks
so the grain is perpendicular to the lathe bed. With the wood in this position, cutting
from large diameter to small would violate the principle of working with the grain. To
avoid cutting into endgrain, it is better to cut into sidegrain by using a shear-scraping
cut and turn “uphill,” from small diameter to large.

Principle 3: Bevel Angle and Length

 From left to right: round-nose scraper with 70° bevel; 1/2″ (13mm) bowl gouge with
55° bevel; and 3/8″ (10mm) spindle gouge with 40° bevel. Deciding on the right bevel
angle and length is a compromise between quality of cut, edge durability, tool
control, and access to tight spaces.

A more acute bevel angle on your cutting tool (with a longer bevel) will produce a finer
cut than tools with a more obtuse bevel angle (with a shorter bevel). Unfortunately,
longer bevels are more difficult to sharpen and require more skill to use. They are also
less durable and don’t hold an edge as long. As a result, when we apply this principle,
we make compromises to find a balance that will give a good cut but be practical in
use.

Applications

Spindle gouges are used for general wood removal as well as detail work when spindle
turning. The bevels on spindle gouges are generally ground between 35° and 45°, with
40° being a good happy medium. A detail gouge is basically a spindle gouge ground
with a more acute bevel angle (30° to 35°). The longer bevel of the detail gouge allows
for finer detail, but it is more difficult to control.

Bowl gouges are used to make heavier cuts than spindle gouges and are typically
ground to an angle between 45° and 60°, depending on the curvature of the inside of
the bowl.

Scraping tools, which are generally known for producing rougher cuts with more torn
grain, are usually ground to between 45° and 80°. Sixty degrees is a common angle of
a bevel on a scraping tool.

The photo shows typical bevel angles for these three commonly used tools. Bevel
contact is important, but it should be light. Start the cut safely by gently touching the
heel of the bevel on the wood and then lift and/or rotate the cutting edge into the
wood to pick up a shaving. As you advance the tool, pay attention to what happens if
you pivot the bevel away from the wood and too far toward the cutting edge: the tool
will dig into the wood and make a nasty backward spiral. If the tool is pivoted too far
away from the cutting edge (toward the heel of the bevel), you will lose the shaving
and get no cut.

Principle 4: Bevel Contact

 Bevel comparison. Bottom: single bevel with an abrupt heel; top: three bevels with
smoother heel transition. A longer, more abrupt bevel is more apt to bruise or burnish
the wood.

The depth of cut is controlled by gliding the tool’s bevel on the wood just behind the
cutting edge.

Application

One way to observe the application of this principle is to clamp a piece of wood in a
vice and try making a controlled cut with a carving gouge without the bevel
contacting the wood. In carving and in turning, the cut is controlled by positioning the
bevel. We often hear the phrases “rubbing the bevel” or “riding the bevel,” but those
references can be misleading because they imply the use of a lot of pressure. Excess
pressure of the tool’s bevel can burnish, bruise, or even crush the wood. It is better to
imagine the bevel “gliding” or “skating” on the surface.

Bevel contact is important, but it should be light. Start the cut safely by gently
touching the heel of the bevel on the wood and then lift and/or rotate the cutting
edge into the wood to pick up a shaving. As you advance the tool, pay attention to
what happens if you pivot the bevel away from the wood and too far toward the
cutting edge: the tool will dig into the wood and make a nasty backward spiral. If the
tool is pivoted too far away from the cutting edge (toward the heel of the bevel), you
will lose the shaving and get no cut.

Keep in mind that the last part of the tool to contact the wood as the cut is made is
the bevel. A long bevel with an abrupt transition between the bevel and the shaft of
the tool will easily bruise the wood while making concave cuts. This can be remedied
by grinding additional bevels to round over the heel and soften this transition.

Principal 5: Cutting Arcs

When making curved cuts such as beads and coves, it is necessary to move the tool in
three controlled and coordinated arcs to maintain bevel support, control the depth of
cut, and create a smooth curve. These three arcs, which determine the approach
angle of the tool, are discussed below.

Applications

Vertical arc
When cutting a bead, the tool handle will begin low and will be raised as the cutting
edge approaches the end of the cut. When cutting a cove, this principle is applied in
reverse: the tool handle will be higher at the beginning of the cut and will be lowered
toward the end of the cut. So vertical arc refers to lifting or lowering the tool handle,
depending on the type of cut you are making.

Cutting the right side of a bead with a skew.

Horizontal/lateral arc

Horizontal, or lateral, arc refers to the movement of the tool handle from right to left
or from left to right. When cutting a bead with a skew, the tool handle will begin at an
angel of 45° to 60° to the wood and at the end of the cut will be closer to 90°. When
cutting the right half of a bead, the tool swings from left to right. The same lateral
motion is at play when cutting the right half of a cove.

Note the three components of tool movement

during the cut: vertically, upward; horizontally,
from left to right; and rotationally, clockwise.

Rotational/rolling arc
When cutting the right half of a bead with a spindle gouge, the flute starts near the 12
o’clock, or fully open position, and is rotated nearly to the 3 o’clock position by the
end of the cut. For the left side of a bead the flute will end near the 9 o’clock position.
When cutting a cove, the same principle is applied but in reverse. The flute will start
facing the 9 or 3 o’clock position at the top of the cove and be rotated toward the 12
o’clock position at the end of the cut in the bottom of the cove. The rotation of the
flute position is achieved by twisting the tool handle either clockwise or
counterclockwise.

Cutting the left side of a cove illustrates the combination of the cutting arcs.

The tool movement shown in the progression shows all three cutting arcs: vertical,
lateral, and rotational. The real challenge here is to control all three arcs
simultaneously while turning beads and coves. This takes a lot of practice. While you
are working on developing this skill, try to be aware of the motion needed to make the
three arcs first independently and then coordinated into one smooth motion.

Vertically, the tool handle moves upward; laterally, to the left; and rotationally,
counterclockwise, with the flute twisting from 3 o’clock to 12 o’clock.

Note that moving the tool in these arcs is also required when sharpening spindle and
bowl gouges. Each of these three arcs can be seen readily by watching the tool handle
while grinding a gouge with the assistance of a sharpening jig.

Principle 6 – Shavings
 The next three photos show the three skew cuts, from top: scraping, peeling, and
shearing.

There are two related principles pertaining to the shavings that come off the wood:

1. The quality of the cut is directly related to how little the shavings have to change
direction as they leave the workpiece. Notice the difference in the path of the shavings
when making a shearing cut as opposed to a scraping cut. With a scraping cut, the
shavings have to change direction about 90 degrees as they are separated from the
wood. This typically results in shavings that are crushed and broken and a surface that
is somewhat torn. With a shearing cut, the angle at which the shavings leave the wood
is reduced dramatically. These shavings usually come off the wood as long curls,
leaving a cleaner cut with little or no torn grain.

2. Shavings must have a clear exit path. Examples of how common tools are designed
to facilitate the removal of shavings include gullets in front of saw teeth, flutes in drill
bits, and the window in a hollow-chisel mortising bit.

Applications

Each has its own angle of tool presentation and

resulting pathway of shavings.

Direction of exit path

Experiment to see how changing the tool’s approach angle from 90° to 30° or 45°
impacts both the quality of the shaving and the cut.

The smoothest surface will result from the shearing cut, but each has its purpose.

Clearance of shavings

Clearing the shavings is particularly important when forming V-grooves with a skew. A
V-groove can be made with one pass of a skew, but this results only in the wood fibers
being severed and pushed to the side, with no wood being removed. The fibers on the
shoulders of the cut will be crushed and will not take a finish properly. A minimum of
three cuts is required to produce a clean V-groove. The first pass cuts the fibers and
pushes them aside, making room for the shavings to exit on subsequent cuts, which
deepen and widen the V-groove. Also, cutting V-grooves before cutting a bead allows
for removal of shavings and clearance for the tool as the bead cuts are made.

Principle 7: Tool Clearance

Parting tool cut showing some clearance on the left side of the tool after widening
the cut.

There must be clearance for the cutting tool to prevent friction and binding. This
clearance (also called “set”) is designed into a saw blade by making the teeth cut wider
than the body of the blade so the saw doesn’t bind in the cut.

Application

In woodturning, tool clearance is particularly important when making deep cuts with
a parting tool. Most parting tools are not designed with a tip that cuts wider than the
body of the tool. As a result, deep parting-tool cuts require that successive cuts be
made to keep the cut wider than the tool itself. When making deep parting-tool cuts,
cut only until you feel some extra resistance, then back the tool out and begin a new
pass to slightly widen the cut. Continue repeating this process until the desired depth
of cut is reached. This principle comes into play in obvious fashion when coring out
nested bowls.

Principle 8: Amount of Cutting Edge Applied

Cuts that produce narrow shavings, with less of the cutting edge contacting the wood,
produce finer surfaces. Smaller cuts put less stress on both the wood and on the tool.
Examples of this can be seen in scissors and paper cutters. By not having the full
cutting edge contact the material at one time, there is less pressure being applied,
resulting in a cleaner cut. In woodworking, consider the cleaner surface produced by a
helical-head planer than by a planer or jointer with straight knives, the length of
which contacts the wood all at the same time.

Application

The application of this principle is straightforward. Consider the width of shaving

when making scraping cuts. If you apply only a small part of a round-nose scraper, a
cleaner cut will result. Conversely, if you apply the full width of a square-nose scraper,
the resulting surface will be rougher and the tool may even dig into the wood.
Experiment with changing the width of the shaving.

Principle 9: Feed Rate

The faster the feed rate, the rougher the cut will be. In general woodworking, “feed
rate” refers to the speed at which the wood is passed through a cutter (or series of
cutters). In woodturning, “feed rate” refers to the speed at which you advance the
cutting tool. This principle applies to tool feed both on the X axis (parallel with the
lathe bed) and on the Y axis (perpendicular to the lathe bed).

Application

A fast feed rate along the X axis impacts the spacing of the tool marks. When the edge
of a board is passed too quickly over jointer knives, a series of peaks and valleys is
produced, rather than a smooth, continuous cut. This is true in woodturning, as well.
Moving the tool quickly along the X axis produces a shallow, spiral groove. This is not a
problem when roughing, but a slower feed rate is needed to make a finishing cut that
produces a smooth surface.

A fast feed rate on the Y axis impacts the thickness (and width) of the shavings. A fast
cut toward the center of a spindle equates to a heavy cut, leaving a rougher surface
than would a slower, lighter cut. This principle is closely related to Principle 8. Watch
an experienced turner and notice how both aggressive and slow feed rates are used to
the turner’s advantage. Roughing cuts can be made with aggressive feed rates, but
finishing cuts are best made with slower, lighter cuts with a freshly sharpened tool.
This approach can save a lot of time sanding.

It should be noted that the quality of cut is a factor not only of the feed rate, but also
of the surface speed of the material. The surface speed, or the rate at which the wood
is moving past the tool, is determined by your lathe’s rpm setting in relation to the
diameter of the stock where the cut is being made. If the lathe is running quickly, say
3000 rpm, you can feed the tool more quickly than if the lathe is running at only 500
rpm. The key is to strive for the right feed rate (done by feel, since woodturning is
controlled by hand) based on lathe speed, the diameter of the stock, and the nature of
the cut (roughing or finishing).

Principle 10: Tool Stability

With relatively little mass, a 1/4″ (6mm) spindle gouge (at left) requires support from
the toolrest close to the cutting tip. The heavier 1/2″ (13mm) gouge is more stable
and can be extended farther beyond the toolrest. Greater tool stability equates to a
smoother cut.

Holding a cutting tool stable during a cut will produce finer results with less vibration.

Application

There are two factors that commonly impact the stability of the tool. One is the
amount of metal in the tool (thickness), and the other is the distance of the toolrest
from the tip of the tool (amount of overhang). You will notice a big difference between
the stability of a 1/4″ (6mm) spindle gouge and a 1/2″ (13mm) spindle gouge. The
smaller tool is good for cutting fine detail but must have toolrest support very near
the cutting edge to prevent vibration. The larger tool has a greater capability to cut
cleanly when there is more overhang over the toolrest. However, the 1/2″ gouge may
be too large to cut small beads and coves. A 3/8″ (10mm) spindle gouge is a good
compromise and consequently is the most commonly used spindle gouge.

I feel fortunate to have been introduced by Del Stubbs to the concept of basic
principles that apply to cutting material. I have found that when I am getting poor
results in turning, I can usually improve the quality of my cuts—and have a more
satisfying experience—by reviewing these principles. I hope that they will be as useful
for you as they have been for me.

All photos by Stephanie Staples.

Kip Christensen teaches wood prototyping, furniture design, and manufacturing at

Brigham Young University. He has particular interest in woodturning education and has
authored several articles and DVDs to help others learn the techniques of turning.

Posted in:
•• W
WOOOODT
DTUUR
RNNIIN
NGG ((H
H TTTTPPSS::////W
WWWW.W
W.WOOO
ODDW
WOOR
RKKEER
RSSJJO
OUUR
RNNA
ALL.C
.COOM
M//C
CAT
ATEEG
GOOR
RY/
Y/H
HOOW-
W-
TO
TO//W
WOOO
ODT
DTU
URRNNIIN
NGG//))
 RELATED ARTICLES:

VIDEO: TURNING CROQUET USING CA GLUE TO CHUCK A

BALLS ON YOUR LATHE BOWL ON YOUR LATHE
In this video, Ernie demonstrates the Turning expert Ernie Conover
process of turning your own croquet demonstrates how to use cyanoacrylate
balls on the lathe. (CA) glues to help chuck a bowl to your
lathe.
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/turning-
croquet-balls-lathe/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/using-
ca-glue-chuck-bowl-lathe/)

ORDER WOODWORKING PLANS, DVDS AND SUPPLIES

(HTTPS://WWW.ROCKLER.COM/WOODWORKERS-JOURNAL?SID=WJHP)

 Woodworker's Woodworker's The Way to Table Saw Civil War

PreviousJournal Journal 25 Jigs Woodwork — Dovetail Jig Officer's Chair
Adirondack and Fixtures, CD Mastering the Downloadable Downloadable
Lawn Chair Plan - $19.99 Table Saw, DVD Plan Plan
Reprint $21.99 $7.95 $7.95
(https://www.rockler.com/woodworkers-
$5.99 (https://www.rockler.com/the-
(https://www.rockler.com/table-
(https://www.rockler.com
journal-25-jigs-
(https://www.rockler.com/woodworkers- way-to- saw-dovetail-jig- war-officers-
and-fixtures-cd?
journal- woodwork- plan?sid=WJHP) chair-plan?
sid=WJHP)
adirondack-lawn- mastering-the- sid=WJHP)
chair-plan- table-saw-dvd?
reprint? sid=WJHP)
sid=WJHP)

(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com)
(https://www.rockler.com/)
HOW-TO PLANS MAGAZINE WEEKLY STORE
(HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJOURNAL.COM/CATEGORY/HOW-
(HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJOURNAL.COM/PLANS/)
(HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJOURNAL.COM/MAGAZINE/)
NEWSLETTER (HTTPS://WWW.ROCKLER.COM/WO
TO/) (HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJOURNAL.COM/CATEGO
JOURNAL?
Gift Project Plans Latest Issue
Woodworking Skills (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/gift-
LATEST-ISSUE/)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/magazine-
SID=WJHP)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
project-plans/) latest-issue/) Latest Issue CONTACT US
to/woodworking-skills/)
Free Plans More on the Web (HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJO
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/weekly-
Project Design (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/plans/featured- latest-issue/)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/magazine/more- US/)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
free-plans/) on-the-web/) Subscribe
to/woodworking-skills/project- (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/weekly/subscribe/)
design/) Premium Plans Woodworker’s Marketplace      
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/premium-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworkers-
Newsletter Archive
Milling content/premium-plans/) marketplace/) (https://www.facebook.com/woodwork
(https://twitter.com/woodworkersjrn
(https://pinterest.com/woodwork
(https://www.woodworkersjo
(https://www.youtube.com
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/weekly/newsletter-(https://www.instagram
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how- archive/)
to/woodworking-skills/milling/) Plans for Sale
Woodworker's Journal
(https://www.rockler.com/woodworkers- Today's Woodworker
Back Issue Archive
Cutting journal?sid=WJHP) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/todays-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/magazine-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how- woodworker/)
back-issue-archive/)
to/woodworking-skills/cutting/) VIDEOS
Industry Interviews
Drilling (HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJOURNAL.COM/VIDEOS/)
Blogs (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/tools-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
Free Videos (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/blogs/)
and-supplies/industry-
to/woodworking-skills/drilling/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/videos/) interviews/)
Editor's Blogs
Shaping Premium Videos (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/blogs/editors-
Woodturning Monthly
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/premium-
blogs/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodturning-
to/woodworking-skills/shaping/) videos/) monthly/)
Contributing Bloggers
() (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/blogs/contributing-
Tricks of the Trade
PREMIUM CONTENT bloggers/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
Clamping (HTTPS://WWW.WOODWORKERSJOURNAL.COM/PREMIUM- to/tips-and-techniques/tricks-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
CONTENT/) Trade Shows of-the-trade/)
to/woodworking-skills/clamping/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/blogs/trade-
Premium Plans shows/) What's In Store
Finishing
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/premium- (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/tools-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
content/premium-plans/) and-supplies/whats-in-store/)
Tool Reviews
to/woodworking-skills/finishing/)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/tools-
Premium Videos Q&A
() and-supplies/tool-
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/premium-
reviews/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/q-
videos/) and-a/)
Tips and Techniques
Back Issue Archive
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how- Reader's Project Gallery
to/tips-and-techniques/) (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/magazine- (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/readers-
back-issue-archive/) project-gallery/)
Jigs and Tools
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how- Crossword Puzzle
to/tips-and-techniques/jigs-and- (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/weekly/crossword-
tools/) puzzle/)

Feedback
Woodturning (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/feedback/)
(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/category/how-
to/woodturning/)

© Woodworker's Journal Advertising Info () • Privacy (https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/privacy/)

Subscribe 

• Website Development by Windmill Strategy (https://www.windmillstrategy.com/) • ACCESSIBILITY STATEMENT

(https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/accessibility-statement/)