APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT 2023

APPAREL PRODUCTION INTERNSHIP REPORT

at
PEE EMPRO EXPORTS PVT LTD.

Submitted By

Ashwani Kumar, Arpit Ranjan, Shivani Priya & Samragyi Pandey

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Under the Guidance of

Mr. T.V.S.N. Murthy & Dr. K. Ram Mohan

(Associate Professor DFT, NIFT Hyderabad)

2023

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad (T.S.)

(Ministry of textile, Govt. of India

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Declaration
We Ashwani Kumar, Arpit Ranjan, Shivani Priya & Samragyi Pandey hereby declare that this
internship project report is submitted towards the fulfilment of 8 weeks internship at Pee Empro
Export Pvt Ltd for the requirement of the academic curriculum for the degree of B.F.Tech. (Apparel
Production) presently being carried out by me at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad.
We hereby abide that this is our original work and no part of the project has been copied from any
other reports or any other work carried by someone else which has been submitted for any other
degree/award. However, any material taken from any other published source has been suitably referred
and acknowledged in this document.

Hyderabad (Telangana)

14th AUGUST 2023

Signature:

_______________________ _______________________
Mr. T.V.S.N. MURTHY DR. K. RAM MOHAN
(FACULTY MENTOR) (FACULTY MENTOR)

_______________________ _______________________
ASHWANI KUMAR SAMRAGYI PANDEY

_______________________ _______________________
ARPIT RANJAN SHIVANI PRIYA

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Acknowledgement
We would like to take this opportunity to extend our deepest sense of gratitude to our faculty guide and
mentor who after numerous consultations, guided us well on this opportunistic internship. Mr. T.V.S.N.
Murthy & Mr. K. Ram Mohan, who after numerous consultations, guided us well on this opportunistic
internship.

We extend our sincere thanks to our Campus Director Mr. Vijay Kr. Mantri and Mr. Avinash Raipally
(Joint Director), our Associate Professors Dr. Shakeel Iqbal, Dr. Rajni Jain, Mrs. V. Priyadarshini, Mr.
K. Ram Mohan, Ms. T. Srivani, Mr. K. Anant Phani, Ms. Sharmila Sure and also to entire "Department
of Fashion Technology" for their constant support and guidance.

In addition, we would also like to thank the entire organization of Pee Empro Exports Haryana for
introducing us to the methodology of work, production & management and whose passion for the
"underlying structures" had lasting effect.

Last but not the least, we are grateful to our college NIFT, Hyderabad (T.S.), for giving us an opportunity
to explore the industrial standards of production, management and exposure to professional ethics and
values.

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OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP

Institutional guidelines command that we comprehensively understand apparel processing

technologies and develop skills in production planning and control and for this purpose we were
aligned with and extreme organization like Pee Exports Pvt Ltd, Faridabad for a 8 weeks training
period that extended from 1st of June to 30th of July, 2023

The goals of an internship are to get practical experience first, followed by applying knowledge to
real-world projects and/or assignments.

This internship helps students learn and develop their interpersonal communication skills with
coworkers, peers, and workers while fusing the concepts learned in the classroom with real-world
applications.

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S.No. Content Page no

1. CHAPTER -1: INTRODUCTION OF COMPANY 13-17

2. CHAPTER -2: DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE 18-19

3. CHAPTER -3: DESIGN DEPARTMENT 20-21

4. CHAPTER -4: MERCHENDISING DEPARTMENT 22-32

5. CHAPTER -5: SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 33-42

6. CHAPTER -6: TESTING DEPARTMENT 43-44

7. CHAPTER -7: FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT 45-70

8. CHAPTER -8: EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT 71- 75

9. CHAPTER -9: TRIMS & ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT 76-78

10 CHAPTER -10: CAD DEPARTMENT 79-83

11. CHAPTER -11: CUTTING DEPARTMENT 84-102

12. CHAPTER -12: PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL 103- 108

13. CHAPTER -13: INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 109-116

14. CHAPTER -14: RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT 117-123

15. CHAPTER -15: PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 124-131

16. CHAPTER -16: FINISHING DEPARTMENT 132- 138

17. CHAPTER -17: PACKING DEPARTMENT 139-147

18. CHAPTER -18: QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT 148-149

19. CHAPTER -19: WASHING DEPARTMENT 150-154

20. CHAPTER -20: MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT 155-156

21. CHAPTER -21: EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT 157-159

22. CHAPTER -21: PLANT LAYOUT 160-166

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S.No.
Content Pg no

1 Fig 1 – BOM 26
2 Fig 2 – The fabric samples are sent to the buyer. These are washed samples of the fabric 28
sent for the approval of shade and hand fee
3 Fig 3 – According to the description the labels are sent to the buyer for approval 30
4 Fig 4 – Tech pack 30
5 Fig 5 – Swatch Card 31
6 Fig 6 – Pattern received from CAD departmen 40
7 Fig 7 – Inspection and cutting of pattern 40
8 Fig 8 – Cutting according to pattern 40
9 Fig 9 – Record Board 41
10 Fig 10 – Operator Record 41
11 Fig 11 – Inspection of the piece 42
12 Fig 12 – Weighing Machine 44
13 Fig 13 – GSM Cutter 44
14 Fig 14 – Fabric details 47
15 Fig 15 – Fabric racks 47
16 Fig 16 – Four Point System 52
17 Fig 17 – Cutting room 53
18 Fig 18- Order Indent Sheet 56
19 Fig 19 – Bundle Sticker and Shrinkage Report 59
20 Fig 20 – 4 Point Inspection Sheet 59
21 Fig 21 – Fabric Inspection Machine 60
22 Fig 22 – Fabric length Checker 60
23 Fig 23 – Inspection Sticker 62
24 Fig 24 – Shade Lot 64
25 Fig 25 – Fabric roll 64
26 Fig 26 – Fabric roll selves 65
27 Fig 27 – Accepted Shrinkage Range 67
28 Fig 28 – Shrinkage Report 67
29 Fig 29 – Macbeth Spectralight III 67
30 Fig 30 – Different Light Modes 68
31 Fig 31 – Specification of SpectraLight QC 32
32 Fig 32 – Light Source requirements per brand 32
33 Fig 33 – Folding & Checking Table 70
34 Fig 34 – Schiffly Embroidery 72
35 Fig 35 – Thread Embroidery 72
36 Fig 36 – The embroidery machines are 21.5 meter in length and it can do embroidery on the 73
fabric for 20.3 meter
37 Fig 37 – The thread reels are held here 74
38 Fig 38 – Embroidery Machine 74
39 Fig 39 – Embroidery Machine different section 75
40 Fig 40 – Circular Machine 75
41 Fig 41 – Tech Pack 83
42 Fig 42 – Fabric Issue Challan 86
43 Fig 43 – This sheet is used while layering of the fabric 87
44 Fig 44 – Lectra Systemes 88

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45 Fig 45 – Lectra Control Panel 89

46 Fig 46 – Lay height scale 89
47 Fig 47 – Lay 90
48 Fig 48 – Laser light 90
49 Fig 49 – Manual spreading 90
50 Fig 50 – Cutted Piece 91
51 Fig 51 – Band knife cutting machine 95
52 Fig 52 – FUSING MACHINE 96
53 Fig 53 – Bond strength Tester 96
54 Fig 54 – The sticker on the garment after ticketing 99
55 Fig 55 – Fusing Machine Control Pane 101
56 Fig 56 – PPC Report 107
57 Fig 57 – Style risk assessment 112
58 Fig 58 – Thread consumption 112
59 Fig 59 – Operation breakdown sheet 113
60 Fig 60 – Line layout plan 113
61 Fig 61 – Skill Matrix grade 115
62 Fig 62 – Operation Skill Matrix 115
63 Fig 63 – Checkers Skill Matrix 115
64 Fig 64 – Pressman Skill Matrix 115
65 Fig 65 – Performance Boosting Sheet 115
66 Fig 66 – Thread Audit Report 116
67 Fig 67 – Hourly Individual production 116
68 Fig 68 – R&D 118
69 Fig 69 – R&D department has a board where they write everything about the ongoing styles 119
in their department. The style no., buyer, date of file receiving, tech pack receive date, date
of making 2 pc, size set etc.
70 Fig 70 – Tracing of patterns for making 2pc and size set 120
71 Fig 71 – Stitching 120
72 Fig 72 – Stitching 121
73 Fig 73 – 1 helper from the R&D department writes the measurement in Hindi using the tech 121
pack given by the buyer. These are then used by the R&D operators and the production line
74 Fig 74 – R&D department is given patterns in cloth bag. The bag contains the style number 122
and the buyer name
75 Fig 75 – Operation Card 126
76 Fig 76 – Line Operator 126
77 Fig 77 – Job Card 127
78 Fig 78 – Cut Piece 127
79 Fig 79 – Basket 128
80 Fig 80 – Filling Basket 128
81 Fig 81 – Inspection table 129
82 Fig 82 – Stitch Dashboard 129
83 Fig 83 – Stitch Dashboard 130
84 Fig 84 – Stitch Dashboard 130
85 Fig 85 – Stitch Dashboard 130
86 Fig 86 – Stitch Dashboard 131
87 Fig 87 – Accessories Swatch Card 131
88 Fig 88 – Line Layout 132

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89 Fig 89 – Thread Checker 136

90 Fig 90 – Thread Checker 136
91 Fig 91 – Measurement Chart 137
92 Fig 92 – How to measure 137
93 Fig 93 – Polybag packing 140
94 Fig 94 – Carton Packing 140
95 Fig 95 – Fold pack 141
96 Fig 96 – Purchase order is provided by the buyer. Buyer also specifies the minimum and 142
maximum carton dimension that the factory should use in packing of the given style
97 Fig 97–According to Purchase order garments are placed inside the polybag 143
98 Fig 98 – The required size of carton is then taken out from the carton storage room 143
99 Fig 99 – These polybags are then loaded in the cartons 144
100 Fig 100 – The sticker provided by the factory contains information such as P.O number, 144
SKU Number, Units per Prepack or bulk pack, carton number.
101 Fig 101 – This carton sticker is provided by the buyer. It contains the same information 145
which was provided by the buyer in the purchase order sheet.
102 Fig 102 – After packing and attaching sticker the packed cartons are stacked before they are 145
shipped
103 Fig 103 – Needle Detector Machine 146
104 Fig 104 – Bulk washing 151
105 Fig 105 – Sample washing machine 152
106 Fig 106 – Garment Dipped in a Bucket 152
107 Fig 107 – Hydro-extractor machine 153
108 Fig 108 – TUMBLE DRYER 153
109 Fig 109 – LINE DRY 154
110 Fig 110 – Spotting area 154
111 Fig 111 – Effluent treatment plant 158
112 Fig 112 – Tanks 158
113 Fig 113 – Tank no. 2 159
114 Fig 114 – Basement plan 161
115 Fig 115 – Evacuation plan 162
116 Fig 116 – Ground floor plan 163
117 Fig 117 – First floor plan 164
118 Fig 118 – Second floor plan 165
119 Fig 119 – Third floor plan 166

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CHAPTER -1

INTRODUCTION OF COMPANY

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1.1 INTRODUCTION
Since 1981, Pee Empro Exports Pvt Ltd has gained recognition and self-worth. They make use of their
own printing and dyeing facility for fabrics called "Creative," as well as their own schiffli embroidery
unit called "Hemla," all of which enable them to assert vertical integration in the production of woven
clothing. Up until the garment is sent, internal control drives the entire process. Their trademarks include
on-time delivery, great value, and high-end craftsmanship.
They have 3000 single needle sewing machines, modern CAD annd CAM machinery, and 30 Tajima
multi-head computer embroidery machines, in addition to 3000 single needle sewing machines. In order
to provide its consumers with the best product possible, Pee Empro is fully outfitted with washing
machines and in-house testing facilities. With a 0.5 percent rejection rate and a monthly production
capability of about 8,00,000 garments, they can generate over 70 million USD in income annually.

1.2 PEE EMPRO UNIT:

Units 13, 12/2, 78, and IMT are the 4 units that make up Pee Empro.
According to its customers, the company has essentially divided the work among the three units (13,
12/2, 78, and IMT is still being developed).
• Unit 13 has a total of 400 machines and 13 lines. Hollister California and Abercrombie & Fitch are the
buyers for this unit.
• Unit 12/2: There are 19 lines, 600 machines, and three buyers: American Eagle, Ann Taylor, and Gap.
• Unit 78: Espirit, Anthropology, Gap/Old Navy, and there are 25 lines with a total of 900 machines.

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1.3 CLIENTS:
They work with some of the world’s most recognizable clothing brands.

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1.4 PREFACE:

A fabric goes through a number of changes before becoming a final garment. The modifications were
performed through a number of steps that involve numerous processes.

The primary apparel processes are classified into:

1. Merchandising
2. Production

• Merchandising is thought to be the initial stage of garment production .It has to do with marketing and
getting customer’s orders.
• On the other side, production comes after merchandising. Here, the fabric is actually transformed into
a final garment.
• The operation of the garment business involves numerous further divisions. These divisions support
the production and merchandising divisions.
• These divisions include planning, quality assurance, maintenance, industrial engineering, research and
development, and sampling, among others.

1.5 WORK OVERVIEW:

The buyer's selection of the fabric for a certain design initiates the entire process of an order. Surat is
essentially where they get their fabric from. The inspiration of the buyer may also be used in the
development of the cloth. In simple terms, the design team and the buyer are co-creating.
The creation of the sample is the following step. Typically, samples come in a variety of colours. At this
time, alternatives for embroidery and pricing are discussed. Almost everything has been settled or closed
on the buyer's end at this point. After sampling, the merchandise department plays an essential role since
they they are involved in the making of the indent.
The production process is planned by the PPC division. R&D creates two pieces based on base size,
followed by grading and mass production. Following the start of production, the clothes are cut, sewing,
finished, and packaged as necessary. The final shipment happens after production is finished and
everything is confirmed to be accurate during the audit.

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Fabric Washing
Interaction with
/ Charak / Marker Making Shipment
Buyer
Relaxation

Raw Material
Placing of Order Spreading Packing
Inspection

Cutting,
Pre-Production Acquisition of Finishing,
Ticketing,
Meeting Raw Material Inpection
Bundling

Size Set Garment

Prototype
Sample Sewing Washing (if
Approval
Approval required)

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CHAPTER -2

DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE

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2.1 DEPARTMENTS:
The work flow of Pee empro exports is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments.
Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of Manufacture
right from pre-production to post-production. There are 15 different departments in Pee Empro
Exports.
1. Design Department
2. Merchandising Department
3. Sampling & Planning Department
4. Fabric Store
5. Trims Store
6. CAD/CAM Department
7. Cutting Department
8. Sewing Department
9. Finishing Department
10. Quality Assurance
11. Industrial Engineering
12. Maintenance Department
13. Human Resource & Administration Department
14. Information Technology Department
15. Training Department

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CHAPTER -3

DESIGN DEPARTMENT

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3.1 DESIGN DEPARTMENT

This department's primary goal is to innovate and develop new designs based on projected future needs.
It doesn't usually need coming up with brand-new patterns and ideas, but it might occasionally involve
making clothes based on the theme boards the customer has provided for the coming season.

HEAD DESIGNER

2 PERSON 2 PERSON FOR

2 ASSISSTANT
HANDLING FABRIC HANDLING INITIAL
DESIGNER
R&D SAMPLING

THE WORKING PROCEDURE

The customer provides the mood board, and the design team uses it as inspiration for designing the
garment. To learn what is popular, they also consult the runway. They create sketches in accordance
with this and receive the manager's approval.
By developing novel weave types, the design team also conducts research and development on the fabric.
The designing of the collection is basically a kind of co creation between the buyer and the design team.
The design team is responsible till the time the buyer confirms the order.

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CHAPTER -4

MERCHENDISING DEPARTMENT

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4.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

This department's primary goal is to innovate and develop new designs based on anticipated future
demands. It doesn't usually need coming up with brand-new patterns and ideas, but it might occasionally
involve making clothes based on the topic boards the customer has provided for the forthcoming season.

The department that connects the marketing and production is merchandising. It does sample
development work while adhering to buyer and production department specifications. The
merchandising department is in charge of choosing the garment's price and engaging in negotiations
with the buyer over design considerations, selling price, delivery schedule, etc. The merchandiser is the
individual in charge of flawlessly completing orders in accordance with the requirements.

Following are the main responsibilities of merchandisers

• Internal & external communication,

• Preparing internal order sheets,
• Preparing purchase orders,
• Advising and assisting production,
• Advising quality department about quality level,
• Mediating production and quality departments,
• Documentation

4.2 HIERARCHY OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

MERCHANDISER
HEAD

SENIOR
MERCHANDISER

ASSISTANT
MERCHANDISER

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4.3 FLOW CHART:

RECEIVE TECH PACK

COSTING

MOCK EMBROIDERY

FIT SAMPLE

CHECK IN QUALITY ANANLYSIS

SENT TO BUYER

BUYER COMMENT

SECOND FIT

COMMENTS

PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

APPROVAL

OK FOR PRODUCTION

FILE PREPARATION

SIZE SET SAMPLE

APPROVED

PRODUCTION

DISPATCH

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4.4 PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

4.4.1. Order confirmation and follow up:
• This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The buyers rely on the
merchandisers to provide them with the information regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility
and the setting up of delivery dates for the shipment.
• The merchandising team is divided buyer wise. For instance there are separate team of merchandisers
comprising of head , senior and assistant merchants for each brand (buyer) such as GAP kids, GAP
women, Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister California etc.
• This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyer‘s representative and
communicating through E-mail and telephonic conversations.
• The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments taking place regarding the
order.
• The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the merchandising team who
further transfers this information to the other departments.

4.4.2. Preparation of BOM:

• The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the particular order. This includes
the following:

1. Fabric quality details

2. Thread Details
3. Finishing Details
4. Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc
5. Prints and Embroidery
6. Trims like buttons, zippers
7. Wash care labels
8. Size labels
9. Brand label
10. Packing Material details

• Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also receive the fabric
consumption and the accessories requirement per garment for each size from the sampling section,
thread consumption per garment from the industrial engineering department
• Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of material (BOM). This has the
complete details of the requirement of all the parts required in making of the garment.
• This BOM is entered into the ERP software APS for access by the Purchase Department.
• This BOM is used by the Purchase Department and the Fabric Sourcing Department to order the
materials as per the order quantity.

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Fig 1. BOM
SHEET

4.4.3. Preparation of time and action chart:

The department prepares a tentative Time and Action Calendar for the activities like:
1. Size set approval date
2. Initial Fabric yardage
3. Bulk fabric approval
4. PP sample submission
5. PP sample approval
6. Bulk sewing trims in house
7. Bulk packing trim
8. Bulk fabric in house
9. Fabric inspection
10. Marker Approval
11. PP Meeting
12. PCD
13. Shipment Sample
14. Final Inspection

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• The planned and actual dates of the TNA are entered into the sheet as and when the
activities are carried out. Any deviations are looked into and the decisions are made.
• The buyer representatives are also regularly updated about the developments on the
TNA and the order status.

4.4.4. Co-ordinating the sample development process:

• The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the sampling department.
The sampling section is given the TECHPACK which contains all the relevant details ,along with
the fabric and trims which is supposed to be used by the sampling department
• The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals according to the
spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are then sent to the buyer for approvals only when
they are approved by the merchandising department.
• The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising team about the types of
samples required by the buyer.
• The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and makes it sure it is
informed to the sampling and the necessary changes made in all the required areas.

4.4.5. Getting approvals at different stages:

• Fabric Approvals: In case of the nominated supplier the buyer suggest the supplier from
which the fabric is supposed to be procured. While in rest of the cases the factory decides where
to procure the fabric from and later sends that fabric for approval from the buyer
• Yarn Dyed program: In case of yarn dyed order strike off has to be sent to the buyer for color
approval.
• Solid dyed program: In case of solid dyed order lab dip has to be sent to the buyer for color
approval.
• Printed fabric Program: In case of printed fabric order deskloom has to be sent to the buyer
for color approval.
• Fabric Package Test: These are buyer dependent and mostly taken care by third party labs.
All the tests that are required by the buyer or the buyer's SOP [Standard Operating Procedures] has
to be passed.
• Embroidery / hand work: Approval for thread color. Sequence color and quality parameters
are taken from the buyer.
• Accessories Approval: All trims and accessories which are going in the garments are
approved by the buyer.

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Fig 2- The fabric samples are sent to the buyer. These are washed samples of
the fabric sent for the approval of shade and hand feel

4.4.6. Tech-Pack
Techpack is the reference for each department whenever it comes to any information about the
buyer requirements. The buyer states all his requirements in a very precise manner which is
contained in this document. The following are the common details which are found in the Techpack
of all the buyers:

Quantity Details

• Size wise quantity

• Color Wise Quantity
• Destination wise quantity
• Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots

Style Details

• Style analysis report

• Style description
• Measurements
• Sketches
• Seam & Stitch details

Process sequence- listing out the order of the activities to be done i.e. cut, panel wash or garment
wash, panel print/embroidery or garment print/embroidery.

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Fabric details

• GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment

• Fabric construction
• Fibre types
• Fabric width
• Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
• Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)

Sewing details
• Stitch SPI for all the parts of the garment
• Stitch distance for all the seams e.g. distance of the top stitch, distance of bottom hem from the
bottom.
• Single needle or double needle operation for all the seams

Sewing thread details

•Thread color
•Thread type
•Nominated supplier if any

Pattern details
•Measurement of ready garment at all the required areas
•Measurement of all the sizes
•Technical drawing of the garment is given in the Techpack.

Accessories & Trims

•Nominated supplier if any
•Accessories that undergo certain test for them the quality standard is also mentioned.
•Type and dimension of all the trims, e.g. length of the zipper, material of the zipper (metal or
plastic).
•Positioning of trims on the garment, mentioned in writing as well as explained diagrammatically.
•Color of the trims.

Description of the labels

•Text to be written on the labels is specified by the buyer.
•The font size and font style for the text on the labels
•The material of the various labels
•Types of labels required i.e. Wash Care Labels, size labes. brand labels
•Positioning of the labels on the garment with dimensions mentioned on a diagram of the garment.

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Fig 3.According to the description the labels are sent to the buyer for approval

Finishing details
• Type of ironing to be done
• A mention about the finishing quality
• Labels and hangtags that are attached to the garment before packing
• Position of the attached hangtags and size labels on the garment
• Final look after packing.
• AQL level to be followed while inspection in the finishing section

Packing details
• Details regarding the type of packing material to be used
• Type of packing – prepack or bulk
• No. of garment in each poly bag
• Size of the poly bags and the cartons
• No. of packets to be kept in each carton.

Fig 4. Tech pack

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4.4.7. Pre-Production Meeting:

• The preproduction meeting shall be carried out before the commencement of the pilot run to ensure
the quality requirements are well understood by the all the concerned
• The Pre-production meeting shall be conducted by the Plant manager after the approval of size set,
and before starting the Pilot run. And the proceedings are recorded in the format for future
reference
• Pre-Production meeting shall be carried out for all lots to ensure the availability of material,
Machineries, attachments and all relevant information.
• All the relevant information are presented by the respective departments as detailed in the format.
• The meeting shall be attended by the members of the Manufacturing core Team based on
requirement.
• The core team comprises of Plant Manager, Technical Manager,Quality Assurance Manageror
Assistant Quality Assurance Manager , .Floor Manager Merchandiser& PPC or SR. Merchandiser,
Management Trainee - Merchandising, industrial Engineers and technical Assistants of applicable
floors and Floor incharge.

4.4.8. Records and formats required in the merchandising department :

• Sample Evaluation report:This report is maintained for all the samples evaluated and inspected
by the merchandisers. It has the records of all the comments and changes suggested.
• Internal Approval Swatch Card: This is a general Swatch Card which is used to attach the fabrics
used for the styles and orders after their approvals from the buyers.

Fig 5 – Swatch Card

• Sales Order Documentation: The merchandisers maintain a record of all the sales orders raised
for the procurement of all the materials for the order. One of the most important jobs of the
merchandiser is to follow up the status of the materials which have been ordered, to ensure the
timely availability of the materials to the production.
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• Consumption confirmation chart: This chart is made by taking the consumption details from the
sampling department for all the sizes in the style of the order. These consumption details are
obtained from the CAD markers.
• Material Requisition: This format is filled up by the merchandiser and sent to the fabric stores
for requesting material for sample development. If the material is not available, the fabric sourcing
team is informed.
• Sampling Job Order: This is a formal order raised to the Sampling department instructing the
quantity and types of samples to be made for the styles. The tentative date for sample preparation
is also mentioned.
• Pre-Production Meeting Report: The Head Merchandiser conducts an PP Meeting. Here all the
details of the order booked are provided to the Factory. The PPM minutes are maintained by each
merchandiser for future reference in case of some discrepancies arising in between the merchants
and the factory. ( i.e. Production related departments)
• Cost sheet of the style – the cost sheet containing the details of the fabric and trims used in the
garment along with their consumption quantity and price, and the final price of the garment quoted
by the factory.
•
4.4.9. Formats received by the merchandising department:

• Size set and pilot run reports: The size set and pilot run reports deal with all the points worth
listing for the garment. This includes the measurement details for all the parameters as well as the
quality tests according to the buyers' requirements.
• Tech Packs: The Tech packs are the guidelines provided by the buyer for the garment
construction.It is provided by the buyer to the merchandiser.
• Purchase orders: Purchase orders are a formal announcement of the order booked by the
merchandiser for the factory. This has all the details of the order quantity. shipment dates and
destination.
• Shipment details: The dates, mode of shipment, mode of payment. Letter of Credit details and
destination of shipment are provided to the merchandiser by the Dispatch department.

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CHAPTER -5

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

5.1. INTRODUCTION:

• The merchandising department and the sampling department collaborate. Before moving forward with
mass manufacturing, they essentially create samples to secure the buyer's approval and to finalize the
style and design.
• When the PD merchandising department requests a proto sample, the sampling department's activity
begins. The first sample produced for any style is the proto sample. In accordance with the buyer's
design, they may also provide the buyer some alternate design and aesthetic options.
• The operator in the sampling section typically produces 3 pieces every day, though it also depends on
the style.For a certain stage of sampling, the average lead time for samples is 7-9 days, but it takes
around 2 months to go from that stage to confirmation. The time may grow depending on the complexity
of the style; for example, if the customer requests a certain colour, the time may increase to 10–12 days.
After the sample reaches its destination, such as the USA or Hong Kong, the average response time is 7
to 10 days. It could take more than a month to receive an order confirmation.

5.2. HIERARCHY OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:

SAMPLING HEAD

SAMPLING QUALITY PATTERN & FABRIC

SUPERVISOR INCHARGE CUTTER

OPERATOR

IRONER

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5.3 SAMPLING PROCESS FLOW CHART:

After receiving the program check all trims as per fill-up

requisition sheet

Submit the program to cutting section

Submit the program to cutting section

After receiving the cutting from cutting section and then check
cutting properly by stitching supervisor and then handover to
operator

After stitching submit pieces to Q.A

After receiving the pieces from stitching section, then check all
construction as per tech-pack and find out the any defects, then
finish the before wash measurement by Q.A and then Submit the
pieces to kaz button section if required

After finishing the kaz button then submit that program to

washing section if required

After receiving the pieces from washing section then

submit to pressing section

After receiving the pieces from pressing section, then check

measurement after wash and ready pieces as per specs

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5.4. WORKFLOW OF SAMPLING:

TECH-PACK
RECEIVED FROM
MERCHANT

DEVELOP
PATTERNS

COSTING CAD DEVELOP

MARKER SAMPLE

DEVELOP
FIT/PROTO
SAMPLE

REVISE
FIT/PROTO PP SAMPLE
SAMPLE

REVISE PP SIZE SET

SAMPLE SAMPLE

INCORPORATE
SEALER
BUYER
SAMPLE
COMMENTS

INCORPORATE
BUYER
COMMENTS

BULK
PRODUCTION

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5.5. MACHINE TYPE AND NUMBER:

Machine /Equipment type No.

Single needle lockstitch machine 52

Overlock machine(5 and 4 thread) 4

Kansai machine for smocking 1

Chainstitch 1

Flatlock 1

Blind hem 1

Pin tuck 2

Pressing table 6

5.6. NUMBER OF WORKERS:

Work type No.

Tailors for SNLS 50
Tailors for special M/C 5

Pressing man 4
Supervisor 3

Expert Technician 1

QA person Buyer wise

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5.7. SAMPLES OF A SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:

• PROTO - Firstly the buyer provides the initial tech pack, according to which the proto sample is
made. This sample is made according to the base size provided by the buyer. Since the costing of the
garment also needs to be finalized at this stage sometimes alternatives are also send to the buyer to
get in into the cost that will be accepted by the buyer. Also if sometimes what the buyer wants can’t
be produced on the production floor, they send a mockup along with what the buyer has asked. This
proto sample can be made on the substitute fabric provided the look and quality of the substitute is
nearly same as the original fabric.
• Lead Time – after merchant hands over the tech pack, fabric and trims to be the sampling team, they
have time of 3-4 days for the development of proto sample. After that buyer takes a week time to
give comments.
• LA, QPR, LR - After giving comments on the proto sample the buyer asks for a Line Adoption
sample (LA Sample) which is also known as QPR (quarterly product review) sample and LR (line
review) sample. 5 LA samples are made in 3-4 colorways. These are made for the buyer, technician,
buying house, design team and one for one’s own factory.
• Lead Time – sampling team is given approx 7 days to make and submit the LA/QPR/LR.
• FIT - The buyer after giving comments on the LA/QPR/LR asks for the fit sample to finalize the fit
of the garment. Depending on the buyer requirements second and third fit can also be send to the
buyer.
• Lead Time- The buyer gives a time period of 15 days to submit the first fit sample. Of these 15
days,5-6 days are taken by the merchant to arrange for things and the rest of the days are taken by the
sampling department to make and submit the fit sample. In case of second and third fit only a week’s
time is given to submit the samples
• FPT & GPT - In between the FPT (Fabric Package test) and GPT (garment package test) samples
are also sent. These are made of the original fabric, trim etc.
• Lead Time – the sampling department is required to submit the pieces to the third party for testing
in 3-4 days after buyer asks for it.
• SEALER - In some cases the buyer also asks for a yellow tag sample, which is also known as the
sealer sample. This sample can also be made on the substitute fabric. This is basically made for
finalizing the pattern.
• Lead Time – 5-6 days are given for the submission of the sealer sample to either the buyer or the
buying house.
• PP - The last sample which is made before proceeding for production is the pre-production sample
(PP sample). It is also known as the green tag sample. Here the actual fabric, trims, etc is used. This
is basically used as a sample for production department also.
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• Lead Time – the sampling department is required to submit the pre-production sample for the approval
within 7days from the approval of the sealer sample.

5.7. THE DETAILS ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT SAMPLE:

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it,
with the help of the tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what
supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Sample information Card

June 12
Date sent

Autumn 12
Season
1w2687
Product ID
M
Size

Description Black Swoop

TSS
Agent/vendor
PEE EMPRO
Factory
India
Count of origin

Fabric BRFL2345
70% / 40% p/c
Content
Normal
Wash finish
Y/N
Paper Pattern received
June 14
Date Received
June 15
Fitting Date

Designer Ralph Lauren

Comment Date June 16

1st FIT
Status 2nd FIT
3rd FIT

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5.8.. PROCESS.

The general procedure followed for any sample made in the sampling department is as follows:

1. The pattern is received from the CAD department, in the form of big sheet. The individual
patterns are then cut out from sheet.

Fig 5 – Pattern received from CAD department

2. After the patterns are cut, the other operator places the patterns over the fabric provided to them
for sampling purpose, and cuts out the pieces accordingly.
3. After cutting out the pieces they keep these patterns in the sampling department. They keep it
till the time bulk production is taking place for that particular style, in case the production or
cad team needs to look after the patterns again.

Fig 6 – Inspection and cutting of pattern Fig 7 – Cutting according

to pattern
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT 2023

4. After the pieces are cut the they are given to the respective operator for the production of the
particular sample, such as proto, LA, QPR, GPT, PP etc.
5. The operator is provided tech pack which is having construction details of the garment to be
produced. A trained master is also present who sometimes helps the operator in understanding
of what is required and what is supposed to be done if the operator fails to understand from the
tech pack provided. The operator is also given the patterns along with tech pack, to have a
better understanding of the parts of the garment and also to check the measurements if required
anywhere.

Fig 8 – Record Board

In sampling department they have a board which comprises of information such as the name of
the operator who us making sample ,the machine on which he is making sample, the style
number, buyer, and most importantly the type of sample he’s making whether it’s LA, GPT,LR,
Fit etc and the quantity of that sample.

Fig 9 – Operator Record

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In sampling department they also maintain records on daily basis monitoring the work of the
operators working in sampling department. They maintain details such as the name of the
operator who is working, the style number he is working upon, the buyer he is working for, the
type of ample he is making, such as proto, gpt, pp, fit, the total quantity of that particular sample
he is supposed to make, the date and time at which work was given to him and the date and time
at which he completed the work, any loss time or any rework that is to be done.
6. .After making the sample they submit the pieces for inspection. Inspection here refers to looking
after the measurement and the construction details. The measurements are noted down.

Fig 10 – Inspection of the piece

7. After the samples are made, few of them are checked for the fit and measurement on the dummy
of the size as given in the tech pack. The construction details are measurement are looked after
here.
8. After inspection the samples are send for washing. For proto, Fit, LA samples normal washing
takes place where light softener is used. But in case of PP sample the washing card given by the
buyer. In this washing card the buyer specifies the washing procedure, the type of drying, the
softener, etc to be used
9. After wash, the pressing of the garment takes place.
10. Now again the measurements are checked to see if there is any variations before and after wash
11. The samples then go for final pressing before submitted for approval.

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CHAPTER -6

TESTING DEPARTMENT

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6.1. TESTING DEPARTMENT:

The testing department is concerned with performing different tests on the fabric. For the FPT and the
GPT test the testing is done by the third party. Only during the PD stage the testing of the fabric is done
by the in-house testing department.

• The pH was tested using the following method:

KCL and 1 litre of water was taken to prepare the solution and 2 gram of cloth was taken. They were
rotated for about 2 hours. Then 1 litre of solution was taken with 100cc of the above solution to find the
Ph.

• For the button pull test the requirement is given in kg. For instance the requirement for the ladies or kids
garment is 6-8 kg.

• For testing the washing fastness 1.5 litre of water is taken along with 750gm of chemical (sodium
perborate tetrahydrate) and two 5 grams of fabric is taken.

• They have 3 dryer and 3 washing machine. The capacity of washing machine is 6 kg and it requires 25-
30 grams of detergent.

• Various other tests are also performed by the such as the tear test, different forms of colour fastness test
etc.

Fig 11 – Weighing Machine Fig 12 – GSM Cutter

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CHAPTER -7

FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT

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FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT

7.1. INTRODUCTION:

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e.
fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the
delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost.

7.2. HIERARCHY OF THE FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT:

STORE MANAGER

STORE INCHARGE

FABRIC INCHARGE FABRIC QC

FABRIC ASSISTANT FABRIC CHECKER

FABRIC HELPER

LAB ASSISTANT

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7.3. FABRIC ISSUE:

The fabric store is the warehouse for the storage of fabrics required for production. Fabric stores will
take care of received fabric lot as per the standard procedures. When the fabric is received from the
supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will contain the order reference number and the
buyer’s name. The fabric rolls are then checked whether the invoice quantity and the actual quantity are
same or not. After finishing the formalities of fabric in warding bales will be stacked according to
buyer/colours. The fabric is received in rolls and bundles after the fabric store issues the fabric for cutting
by challan. They issue required amount of fabric to avoid wastages. The challan contains information
regarding style no, colour, buyer's name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.

Fig 13 – Fabric details Fig 14 – Fabric racks

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7.4. FLOW CHART:

Receive program from merchant

Approval

Proceed for dyeing

Receive dyed fabric

Lab test of fabric

100% fabric inspection

Segregate checked unchecked fabric

Re-dyeing

Issue fabric to cutting

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7.5. Manpower of fabric Stores:

DESIGNATION MANPOWER

Store manager
1

Store in charge
1

Fabric in charge
2

Fabric assistant
2

Fabric helper 4

Lab assistant 1

Fabric QC 2

Fabric checker
6

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7.6. FUNCTIONING OF FABRIC STORE:

Once the raw materials or the fabric is been sent by the supplier to the company and once they reach in-
house the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material, he/she checks the quantity
of the material in-house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e.. he checks the materials against
invoice/ Packing list.
If we talk about the quality of the fabric for a particular style, normally the buyer proposes the quality.
At times the buyer specifies the price of the fabric for an order and they also specify the source of
procurement. In other cases the manufacturer's sources fabric once the quality is approved. Fabric is
sourced depending on the quality rates and delivery/lead time of the order. Fabric is sourced at the best
possible price range and is stored in the factory's fabric storage area.
Generally greige fabric is sourced as per the order and then it is sent for processing. Processing of fabrics
is mostly done in the company's own dyeing and printing unit. The factory has kept a large inventory of
greige fabrics like cambric. Poplin, voile etc. .in the fabric store which can be used at any time as per
the order. Inspection of the fabric is carried out using the 4 point system of fabric inspection. The store
uses software APPS that keeps a record of all the information about the fabric that comes in the store
and that is issued out to the cutting department.

7.7. PROCESS FLOW FOR ORDERING OF FABRIC:

Development
- Buyer Specifics fabric quality and specifications
- Requirements of designers

APPROVAL OF QUALITY
(COUNT, CONSTRUCTION, LOOK, HAND FEEL) through lab dips, strike offs

Quality selected

Fabric ordered
.

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7.8. PRICE NEGOTIATIONS WITH SELECTED VENDOR:

Take quotations from all the vendors

Check past records for quality of vendors in case of similar

prices being offered

Price negotiations with selected vendor

Approval from

Order placed

7.9. THE MAIN FUNCTIONS OF FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT ARE:

• Receive the fabric as per BOM
• Inspect the fabric
• Conduct shrinkage and color-fastness tests
• Issue to spreading department as per plan
• Receive the end bits

7.10. FABRIC ISSUE TO:

• Cutting Department
• Sampling Department

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7.11. THE 4 – POINT SYSTEM:

This test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics with
requirements mutually agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier. This system does not establish a
given product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning
demerit point values.

Fig 15 – Four Point System

Table: Defect Points

Length of defect Defect
Points
0 - 3 inches 1
3 – 6 inches 2
6 – 9 inches 3
Over 9 inches 4
Holes and Openings of 4
any size

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Major defects that are encountered are:

1. Weaving defects
2. Prints (print repeat. pattem/ design, choke ups) etc.

NOTE:
1. No running yard shall be penalized more than 4 points for warp and Weft defects.
2. Defects appearing within 1” of either edge shall be disregarded.
3. Any hole other than a pin hole shall be considered a Major defect and assigned 4 points for penalty.

Points per 100sq. yards = Total points scored in the bulk x 100 x 3
Width of the role (Inch) x Total yards Inspected

Points per 100sq. meter = Total points scored in the bulk x 100 x 100
Width of the role (cm) x Total yards Inspected

• Note: Standard of Machine Speed = 6 to 8 mtr/min

• Standard LUX On machine = 1400 to 1600

Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room.

Fig 16 – Cutting room

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7.12. INSTRUCTIONS FOR SHADE SEGREGATION AT FABRIC STORE:

Cut 1 meter from each roll

Segregate cut piece into family of

Send one half for washing and retain another half

After receiving the washed pieces organize the pieces as per the family
of

Prepare shade band and send to merchant for approval

NO

Are shade Inform the merchant

band and reject the rolls
YES

Give one unwashed color continuity card to cutting and sewing and one
card to finishing and FSA

Cut the Pcs in A5 size and make 4 color continuity card each for washed
and unwashed

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7.13.THE WOKING OF THE FABRIC INSPECTION AND STORAGE:

Process flow of the fabric
department
Receive file from merchant

Sample or lab dip according to specification

Approval or amendments

Fabric in-house starts

If embroidery or dyeing/printing is required first inspect the whole lot of fabric.

Send to hemla for embroidery or creative for dyeing/printing

Receive fabric from the embroidery or dyeing/printing unit

Inspection of the fabric again

Process flow of the inspection of fabric

10% of each lot of fabric inspected

inspection for shrinkage, colorfastness, crocking,defects

if no major problem, do the 100% inspection of each roll/bundle accd. to 4 point inspection system

loting of fabric accd to shade

storage of fabric- checked, rejected

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Fig 17- Order Indent Sheet

Once the order is confirmed the fabric order indent is created. This sheet basically contains the no. of
sizes and the no. of pieces to be produced in each size. Accordingly the meters of fabric required is
calculated by taking out the average consumption of fabric for one garment, multiplied by the total no.
of garments. Here the 5% of cutting wastage is also added and then the total meters of fabric required is
calculated. Along with the no. of pieces to be produced we also take into account the pieces for sampling
purpose.
The manager of the fabric store has dates regarding the departure of fabric from the supplier’s factory
and the arrival of the fabric at one’s own factory. Accordingly he is informed from the supplier’s side
whether the fabric has left from that factory at the scheduled date or not. If due to some problem the
fabric fails to depart from the supplier’s unit, the manager of the pee empro factory informs to the
planning department that there will be delay in the arrival of fabric so they should plan accordingly.
There is always a time gap of 7 days between the departure and arrival of the fabric.
Once the fabric reaches the manufacturing unit, a list is provided from the supplier which contains the
item description, the roll and bundle number, net weight and gross weight, no. of meters of fabric , no.
of rolls/bundles and the total meters of fabric.
During the time of unloading of the fabric, the person responsible checks the bundle/roll number written
on the fabric against the one provided in the supplier sheet.
During the time of length inspection the operators checks the length of the fabric against the ones
provided on the sheet, and write about variation if any so that it can be informed to the supplier
accordingly.

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Fig 18 – Bundle Sticker

Every roll or bundle contains a sticker on top that contains information such as roll no., style no. , the
fabric type.
The supplier usually sends the fabric in lots, rather than all at the same time. Each lot contains vary
number of rolls or bundles. From every lot that arrives 10% is inspected for shrinkage, color fastness
and centre selvedge variation. From those selected rolls, 1 metre of fabric is cut. This 1 metre of fabric
is divided into 60cm for shrinkage,20cm for CSV, 20 cm for fastness. The company accepts 3%
shrinkage in the fabric. If the shrinkage is more than 3% in these selected 10% then 100% of the fabric
is inspected.

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Fig 19 – Shrinkage Report

The shrinkage report gives information regarding the variation in the fabric dimension before and after
wash. The worker responsible takes the 60cm of fabric and marks points at a distance of 50cm both in
the warp and weft direction. The points are marked at the extreme left and right and also at the centre.
Before and after measurements are written and an average of the three values, left, right and middle is
taken to get the average shrinkage in the fabric. If this shrinkage is less than or equal to 3% then it is
accepted otherwise the higher authorities are informed to look into the matter accordingly.

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Fig 20 – 4 Point Inspection Sheet

This worksheet is basically for carrying out the 4 point inspection. Towards the top of the page it stores
information regarding the fabric supplier, buyer, style number, fabric quality and fabric color. The next
column contains information regarding the fabric quantity received in that particular lot, the receiving
date and the inspection date.
Towards the middle part of the page the actual defect number is calculated. It consists of the roll/bundle
number that is inspected, the metres of fabric in that roll/bundle, the length – whether 1m = 100 cm or
not because most of the time it is less i.e 1m= 98cm or so; the width of the fabric in inches as well as
centimeter. Various types of defect that can be found in a particular fabric is mentioned on the sheet and
each defect is having 2-4 columns with each column containing points that should be allotted for that
particular defect according to the 4 point inspection system. The checker inspects the whole bundle/roll
and keep on marking the defect points if any. At the end total point is calculated for that roll/bundle.
At the end after completing the inspection of all the rolls in that lot they add all the points and then with
the help of the formula calculate the points per 100 sq yard. If this value comes less than 20 it is accepted
otherwise the matter is reported to concerned officials. Here along with the 4 point inspection they also
check for the bowing and CSV (centre selvedge variation) in the fabric.

7.14. INSPECTION OF FABRIC

The fabric arrives in one of the two forms:
• Roll
• Bundle
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Roll fabric
The operator checks for the defects in the fabric as it passes on this table. A roller is placed on the slant
table beneath which the fabric passes. The roller measures the length of the fabric. The width and defect
is measured manually by the operator.

Fig 21 – Fabric Inspection Machine

Bundle fabric
The bundle fabric is inspected for width and defects on flat table. The operator pulls the fabric from one
end of the table to the other end. The width here is basically measured after every 4-5 metres. Selvedge
to selvedge and centre to selvedge variation is also checked.
The four-point system provides for the evaluation of the fabric on either a linear yard or square yard
basis. As the fabric with more width, will have more area. Or we can say that a 72" wide fabric will have
twice the area when compared to a 36” wide fabric. Formula for calculating the number of defect points
per hundred square yards:

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Defect points per hundred square yards = Total defect points found x3600 /Fabric width (inch) fabric
length (yard)
1) 20-25 points Acceptable with most buyers
2) 25 & above 35 Discussed with buyer & decided.
3) 35 & above Normally considered as reject.
Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room.
Bowing defect is not more than 3inches otherwise it consider in defect & other defect like mention in
sheet is not upto 40 points/100mtr otherwise its consider in defect. And defect marked by PURPLE
PENCIL.

The length of the bundle fabric is checked by hanging the fabric in between the clips as shown below.

Fig 22 – Fabric length Checker

Here the distance between the any two extreme clips is 100cm. By hanging the fabric here , it is also
checked whether the 1m is equal to 100cm or not. While hanging if there is too much tension in the
fabric it is found that 1m is generally less than 100cm.
After the checking processa100/100cm2of fabric piece is cut and sent for lotting and shrinkage.

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100/100 cm 2

60/60 cm2 for shrinkage 20/20 cm2 for lotting 20/20cm2 for GSM

GSM (Grams per square meters) - Through GSM we understand the weight and thickness of the fabric.
The 3 processes:- shrinkage, GSM, and shade variation checking happen simultaneously. Let’s say 2 lot
X&Y have the same shrinkage but after GSM test one became heavier and the other lighter so they will
be kept in different lots.

7.14.1 THE STICKERS ON FABRIC AFTER INSPECTION

Fig 23 – Inspection Sticker

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Fabric Sticker System

Colour Purpose Responsible Person

READY TO ISSUE GOOD FABRIC MANAGER

FOR RE-PROCESS FABRIC MANAGER

CUT WITH WASTAGE FABRIC MANAGER

REJECT FABRIC MANAGER

After inspection of the fabric the stickers are pasted on the inspected fabric which indicates
different meanings. For instance if no defects or faults are found then the fabric is given green
sticker which indicates that fabric is good to be issued for further work. The pink sticker is given
when that particular fabric contains 40-60 defect points. This sticker indicates that the fabric is
cut with wastage, so the marker should be planned accordingly. The orange sticker is given
when the fabric contains more than 60 defect point and is not acceptable. In other words that
particular fabric is rejected. The yellow sticker usually symbolizes that the work on the fabric
(basically inspection) is kept on hold due to various reasons.
During inspection of the fabric if stains are at small areas, it is usually rectified. They use the following
chemicals to remove stain:
• Tpol – basically for white fabric
• Runkard
• Emyl

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Fig 24 – Shade Lot

During the time of inspection a small part of fabric from each roll/bundle is torn which is later used to
create shade lots of fabric. The shade lotting is done manually by the operator.

Fig 25 – Fabric roll

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Fig 26 – Fabric roll selves

After the fabric is inspected and shade lot made it is stored in the checked fabric area. The rolls are inserted
in the roll holder whereas the bundles are kept in these shelves.

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7.15. FABRIC PROCESS FLOW CHART:

Fabric process flow chart

After receiving the fabric, select random rolls for shrinkage check

Take 100 cm fabric from selected rolls. And check for different parameters.

60 cm for shrinkage, 20 cm for CSV band, 20 cm for lab test (GSM, Crocking wet & dry)

If variable shrinkage found then some more rolls are selected for shrinkage check, If the result is same
then we go for 100% shrinkage

100% fabric check for 4-Point system

Labelling the checked rolls pass, wastage & Reject

LOT wise marking, Issue to cutting department

7.16. SHRINKAGE:

To measure shrinkage the cloth is marked with the help of a Tex marker and shrinkage scale.
Line Dry = Wash - Removal of excess water - Dry in outdoor conditions
Tumble dry = Wash - Removal of excess water - Drying Oven (variable temperatures)
A rule of thumb to notice, that the shrinkage due to tumble dry happens to be 2-3% more than the Line
Dry method. A measuring scale is used to draw the marker of 50cm, on the weft and warp sides and
then the percentage shrinkage is checked using the scale. The instruments used are needed to be
calibrated yearly, and the instruments like measuring tapes are regularly changed(monthly).
Whether we want to Line dry or Tumble dry that depends on the Buyer’s requirement.

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Shrinkage acceptance range

Fig 27 – Accepted Shrinkage Range Fig 28 – Shrinkage Report

7.17. Macbeth Spectralight III

Fig 29 – Macbeth Spectralight III

Visual evaluation of color-critical products under a variety of controlled lighting conditions is an
important aspect of any color-managed workflow. Consistent visual assessment for products of all
types for quality control purposes is now possible thanks to the SpectraLight QC light booth. This
holistic visual color assessment system features state-of-the-art light sources, including natural filtered
daylight, making it easy to meet practically any specification

Seven Light Sources: The SpectraLight QC light both features seven light sources, more than any
other light both on the market. This is important to ensure that products will have the right color
appearance under all the lighting conditions they are likely to encounter.
Lighting options include

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CIE Daylight,
Cool White Fluorescent,
Incandescent “A” & 2300K/Horizon,
UVA,
two fluorescent types (choice of U30, U35, TL83, and TL84), and
two LED types (choice of L940 and the L950).

• Filtered tungsten halogen daylight simulation provides the most accurate rendering of daylight
available anywhere in the market for optimum visual assessment.
• After initial power-up, lamps achieve almost instant stability when switching between lamps. A
helpful indicator acknowledges optimum stability to assure operators that it is in top condition.
• Every instrument starts with exacting UV calibration. Built-in sensors monitor and correct UV output
to maintain inter-instrument agreement. • Built-in sensors
automatically adjust voltage to maintain proper lux, compensating for lamp age and wear.
Real-time digital lux output can be adjusted to comply with ASTM and AATCC standards for sample
type or user needs.

• Certified replacement lamps allow for consistent performance and better traceability.
automatically adjust voltage to maintain proper lux, compensating for lamp age and wear.
Real-time digital lux output can be adjusted to comply with ASTM and AATCC standards for sample
type or user needs.
• Certified replacement lamps allow for consistent performance and better traceability.

Fig 30 – Different Light Modes

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Fig 31 – Specification of SpectraLight QC

Fig 32 – Light Source requirements per brand

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Buyer authorized two person from factory for matching the fabric color under spectra light ,
Most of the buyers say to the factory to check the fabric on their behalf .
After approval of the lab dip the fabric of a particular style ok for sample and then garment ( mass
production ).

Fig 33 – Folding & Checking Table

7.18. FOLDING & CHECKING TABLEs

Features
Drafting light tables are equipped with the needed features and qualities, such as:
• Fluorescent lighting with a dimmable feature.
• Frosted glass area that can be adjusted to match one’s specific requirements.
• Different top surfaces to choose from, including chemical-resistant surfaces, as well as plastic-
laminated surfaces.
• Customizable features, depending on your specific preferences or needs.

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CHAPTER -8

EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

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8.1. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

Embroidery department is a department which comes into role only when desired by a particular style.
Pee Empro majors in dealing with garments having schiffly embroidery.

Fig 34 Schiffly Embroidery

Embroidery takes place with the help of the machines. Both schiffly as well as normal thread embroidery
is done on the rolls of cloth.

Fig 35 Thread Embroidery

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The merchandiser gets the artwork approved by the buyer. After this the artwork is transferred to
embroidery department. The details given to the team are as follows:-
• Style number
• Total length and width of the design
• Repeat size
• Type of thread and needle to be used
• Placement of design

The design is developed by the CAD department which is the loaded on the computerized embroidery
machine. Stitching as well as embroidery threads are used. The needle is changed according to the type
of material on which embroidery is taking place.

Fig 36 - The embroidery machines are 21.5

meter in length and it can do embroidery on the
fabric for 20.3 meter.

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Fig 37 The thread reels are held here

The needle then

stitches around The blade
the cut part. here cuts the
fabric at right
position

Fig 38

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The numbers here indicate

the different section of the
embroidery machine. It is
divided into 8 sections. The
light here shows that
everything is working properly
whereas the numbers whose
lights are off indicates the
broken thread

Fig 39

Fig 40

Here the lace is made with the help of threads that revolve on the circular machine
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CHAPTER -9

TRIMS & ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT

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9.1. TRIMS & ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT

The basic function of the trims and accessories department is to stock buttons, laces. trims and other
related accessories. The stock is let out depending upon the order and the requirement of the
merchandising/sampling or production department.
There are 13 workers working in the trims and accessory department.

9.2. BASIC PROCEDURE FOR RECEIPT OF GOODS AT THE ACCESSORIES STORE IS

AS FOLLOWS:

Marketing prepares
BOM (Bill of The entries are feed in These entries are
Materials) when order APPS reflected in purchase
is finalized

According to the
delivery date material
Accessories are Sourcing is done on
is sought (Average
received at accessory the basis of costing
lead ) time is 20 days
store. given by marketing
before PCD i.e.
planned out date)

9.3. THE WORKFLOW

The workflow is quite lucid here. First the department that needs a particular material fills up a
requisition slip for the same, It is then forwarded to the store's manager who then approves the demand
depending upon the availability.

Fig 41 Requisition sheet

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Here in this requisition sheet they specify the buyer name for whose style it is required, the name of
the trims or accessory they want and their quantity. This is applicable only in case of requisition
placed from the merchandising or sampling department.
In case of requisition from the production department a proper challan is to be issued.

9.4. DIFFERENT TRIMS AND THEIR LEAD TIME

1. Threads- 99 % is supplied by Coats and 1 % by Vardhaman
Lead time – 7 days
2. Labels & tags – 100% nominated
Lead time – 12-15 days
3. Zipper – concealed and metallic
Lead time – 21 days
4. Elastic – knitted and woven
Lead time – 10-12 days (for less than 25mm)
5. Fusing – woven and knitted
Lead time – 10-12 days
6. Buttons – Quantity is mentioned in gross
Lead time – 10-12 days
7. Hanger sizers, polybags – Supplied by Mainetti (Chennai)
Lead time – 25-30 days
(Sizer only purchased for the buyer GAP)

Lead time for every trim is maximum of 20 days if order is placed on time i.e approval is on time.
Also while purchasing the trims, they order 2% extra.

Fig 42 Trim Store

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CHAPTER -10

CAD DEPARTMENT

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10.1. CAD DEPARTMENT

Computer Aided Design. CAD department is responsible for making of the digitized patterns for
sampling and digitized markers for bulk cutting. They also make embroidery patterns as well do 3D
sampling
10.2. WORKING STAFF :-
Designation No. of people

Head 1

Pattern masters 4

Embroidery 2
design master

Grading 4

3D sampling 1

10.3. WORKING OF THE DEPARTMENT

Sampling - For making the pattern for proto samples they have 24 hours to make and submit the pattern
to the sampling department. In a day they have to make 4-5 patterns. Pattern is made according to the
buyer specification.
During the submission of LA sample the pattern might change, so they are required to make the changes
accordingly.
They use brown paper for making the patterns for sample

Fig 36 CAD Department

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Production – For the making of the marker for the bulk production they get the instructions from the
R&D department. R&D department informs them about the changes in the patterns due to any
occurrence of the shrinkage. Accordingly CAD department required to make the marker.
They use white paper for making of the marker.
Patterns on both the paper contains information such as the part name, size of that particular part (s,m,l
etc), and the measurement of that part.
10.4. SOFTWARES
• Pattern making – OPTITEX

• Grading – GERBER

• 3D sampling – OPTITEX

• Cutting (Bulk Production) – LECTRA

They use two kinds of pattern paper;-

• Brown paper for sampling – 170 gsm

• White paper for Bulk production – 20 gsm

Fig 37- Brown paper

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Fig 38- White paper

Fig 39- Garment measurements

Fig 40- Garment Front and Back sketch

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Fig 41 – Tech Pack

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CHAPTER -11

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

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11.1. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as the pattern pieces in the marker for assembly
operations. This is carried out in the cutting room-an area, which normally indicates the activities of
marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as being used to refer to actual cutting of
garment parts from the lay. Marker planning is done in the CAD room.
Garments are cut in bulk simultaneously for which a lay is created; with a number of plies spread one
above another. The marker from CAD is fixed over the lay and it is cut with help of powerful electric
cutters, or CAM m/c following the lines of the patterns. The main objective of the cutting department is
to cut the parts accurately and economically and in sufficient volume to keep the production units
supplied with work.

The cutting department supplies cut parts for two major operations given below:
1. Firstly when there is a pilot run production for a smaller quantity say about 150 - 500 pieces.
2. Secondly during the mass/bulk production.

11.2. HIERARCHY AT THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT

CUTTING
MANAGER

CUTTING CUTTING
SUPERVISOR
MASTER QA

ASSISTANT FUSING
QA OPERATOR

CHECKER LAYERMAN

STICKER

HELPER

BUNDLE

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11.3. ISSUING OF FABRIC

In order to issue fabric to the cutting department a basic procedure is followed:
Firstly a lot master is made by the fabric department which consists of the data of the different shade
lots created.next the cutting department makes a lot cut , which is basically asking for a specified
quantity of fabric against the lot master created.the fabric store then issues the fabric against the lot cut.

Fig 42 – Fabric Issue Challan

The fabric store while issuing a fabric to the cutting department issues a challan. The challan contains
information as to which bundle or roll is being used and how much quantity is being used, and to which
lot that particular roll or bundle belong to.
11.4. MARKER MAKING
• The markers for the purpose of cutting are made by the CAD department. This marker is made keeping
in view the costing average quoted by the merchant to the buyer. In case patterns have been made
manually, the patterns are digitized to transfer them to the system and then a marker is made.

• In case of CAM cutting, marker is sent to the cutting floor in floppy and in case of manual cutting, actual
size marker is obtained through the plotter available.

11.5. SPREADING - LAYERING THE FABRICS

Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining a high
quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables
in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the
number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Both manual and machine spreading method is
being used.
Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.

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Spreading and cutting is smooth laying of fabric in superimposed layers or plies of specified length. The
cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width minus
selvedge or needle marks. Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the
percentage of the total fabric area.
11.5.1. Ideal Lay height for cutting

Fabric weight Woven

Knits

Heavy Weight 4-5" 3-4“

Mid Weight 3-4" 3-2.5”

2-2.25”
" Light Weight 2.5-3”

Fig 43-This sheet is used while layering of the fabric

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11.5.2. Different Spreading modes are as follows:

• Nap one way/ face one way
• Nap one way/ face to face
• Nap either way/ face one way
• Nap either way/face to face
The spreading mode used here is :
Nap one way/ face one way
NAP refers to the direction of the fabric design or the grain of the fabric whichever applicable for the
given style of garment and type of fabric. While spreading fabric in this mode the nap of each layer is
being kept in one running direction and the face is kept in one direction either up or down. Used for
fabric where the direction of the fabric length wise cannot be changed and doesn't have similar right and
wrong side.
Nap one way / face to face
Herein the nap of the fabric is kept in one direction of each layer of the lay but the adjacent layers are
kept face to face.
Nap either way / face one way
Nap of the fabric can be kept in opposite directions but the face of the fabric is being kept in one direction
while spreading.
Nap either way / face up down
Used for plain fabric which is similar on both the sides.

PEE EMPRO EXPORTS PRIVATE LTD uses both manual and machine spreading. It has one lectra
spreading machine with fabric cutter attached to it.

Fig 44- Lectra Systemes

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The most used spreading mode is nap one way face one way for both the manual and machine spreading.
In the manual method of spreading either scissor is being used as cutting tool after spreading each layer
or in few cases they have a portable circular knife placed at the end of the table to cut the fabric.

Fig 45-Lectra Control Panel

The computer machine attached to the lectra spreading machine contains the marker plan and other
information like: the overall speed of the knife while moving from one point to another, the cutting speed
of the knife during the cutting of the layers. It also displays information such as how many meters have
been cut and how many are left, the spent time in cutting and the remaining time.

The height measuring instrument is used to measure lay's

height Fig 46-Lay height scale

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Fig 47 - Lay

Here for the purpose of spreading the checked fabric they use laser. The laser helps in positioning the
fabric, i.e here it helps in matching the stripes or checks.

Fig 48 - Laser light

Fig 49 - Manual
spreading

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Lectra integrated cutting room offer is a pioneering combination of marker-making, patternmaking,

spreading and cutting solutions to enable furniture manufacturers to control costs, minimise waste and
shorten production cycles.
Vector fabric cutting room combines lean-oriented production processes with maximum uptime to
deliver improved speed and better-quality products at the lowest cost per cut.
Vector high-ply range
The Vector offers the greatest capacity for repetitive production.
The Vector supports high-volume producers with flexible production needs.
The new Brio spreader delivers high quality, tension-free spreading for fabric rolls up to 250 kilos,
whatever the spread height. Optimise material use and get the most from your stock through automatic
fabric roll end management. Brio helps you to work faster and with the security of perfect alignment
fabric laying.

Fig 50 – Cutted Piece

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15.6. PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT

CUT ORDER PLAN FROM PPC

MINI MARKER GENERATION

INSPECTION OF MINI
MARKER

MARKER GENERATION

CUTTING PROJECTION PLANNING-

PLAN BASED ON FABRIC AVG

MERCHANT CONTACT FABRIC

STORE & FABRIC SUPPLIER IF
FABRIC AVG IS MORE THAN
CALCULATED AVG

BASED ON DAILY CUT PLAN ISSUED

FROM STORE & MARKERS RECEIVED
FROM CAD

SPREADING / LAYERING

MARKER IN-PROCESS INSPECTION

CUTTING BY STRAIGHT KNIFE

IN-PROCESS CUT PART INSPECTION

NUMBERING / STICKERING
FUSING

PANELS INSPECTION
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INSPECTION
FUSING
STRENGTH
PARTS CHANGE FROM END BITS

RELAYERING
BAND KNIFE CUTTING

STICKERING

BUNDLING

STORAGE

DISPATCH FOR SEWING

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15.7. FACTORS INVOLVED IN CUTTING FABRICS

Factors affecting the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:
• Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)
• Thickness of fabric.
• Design characteristics of finished garment.
• Machines and tables used.

Sewing Mc. Make model No. of Mc.

Straight knife Eastman blue streak II 4

Band knife Eastman EC 900 N 1

End cutter (circular Eastman EC 3 4

cutting)

Vacuum table NGAISHING NS-3602 1

Flat bed fusing Hp-450 CS 2

15.8. Machine specification

Band knife cutter
Model: Eastman EC-900N

Cutting capacity: 180 mm

Table size: 1500 x 2100 mm

Table height: 720-790 mm

Arm length: 900 mm

Variable speed: 570-1440 m/min

Motor: AC 220V 750W 1-phase

Blower motor: AC 220V 125W 1-phase

Knife dimensions: 0.45 x 10 x 3960 mm

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Fig 51 - Band knife cutting machine

15.9. STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTER

MODEL : Eastman Blue Streak ll Class 629 X

Cutting capacity:
4.5 inch

Motor:
AC 220V 60 Hz 1-phase

Blade size: 8 inch

Weight: 15.4 kg

Stroke: 1.25 inch

Torque:
0.63 kgf~cm

RPM: 17,000

Blade type; Straight

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15.10. FUSING MACHINE

Model : HASHIMA HP-450CS

Power supply: Single phase

Motor: 40W

Rated output: Heater: 4500W

Fusing width: 450mm

Pressure: Max . 5.0 kg/cmz

Temperature: Max. 200°C

Heating time : 5min 20 sec

1660 x 880 x 460mm

Dimensions:

Net weight: About 152 kg

Fig 52 - FUSING MACHINE

15.11. Solid cutting

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The lay is cut with help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. The
machine is moved manually through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the
reciprocating blade cut the pieces of fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller
components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a
non-portable cutting device which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. In band knife cutting
machine the blade is at one position whereas the block to be cut is moved around it .
The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

15.12. Block cutting

Jacquard, stripes and checks are not being spread with spreading machine due to requirements of
matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in
single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time matching the strips with those in the
previous plies. Then blocks are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the
block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from
the lay and the placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually
marked on top with marking chalk and using hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to
match the stripes and rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the patterns is done. The
cut shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting
occurs to finish the pattern.

Cutting of stripped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The Wastage involved is also more
due to cutting in two stages.

Spread Match Mark blocks Match

Final precise
shaping of Mark
Match Cut patterns
patterns patterns

15.13. Sorting and ticketing

Pieces cut from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are brought
together. It is very important to take care that the pieces cut from two different bolts( bundles) of fabric
are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are can be shade variations. The sorted pieces are
now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and
sequence identification. The workers secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using the ticket
gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle no ., piece no. and serves as
important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to the end .

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15.13.1. TICKETING PROCESS FLOW:

NEW STYLE
INFORMATION

REVIEW THE STYLE

DECIDE THE
STICKERING GUM AS
PER THE FABRIC

TO ENSURE SERIAL
NO. AS PER ORDER
WISE AND SIZE WISE

CUTTING RECEIVING

STICKERING

CHECKING AND PASS

BUNDLE

PASS

ISSUE TO FURTHER
PROCESS

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Fig 53

Here the operators are doing the ticketing on the cut panels. They have a machine that put stickers on
the cut parts. The sticker contains information such as the size, cut panel number.

Fig 54- The sticker on the

garment after ticketing

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15.14. FUSING PROCESS FLOW:

NEW STYLE INFORMATION

TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE ANALYSIS

CHECK THE FUSING PART SHRINKAGE

SAMPLE FUSING (SIZE SET)

APPROVAL FROM MERCHANT

FUSING PLACEMENT APPROVAL FROM

PRODUCTION UNIT AND MERCHANT

FUSING MARKER PLANNING, REQUEST

AND RECEIVING

FUSING PROCESS (PLACING ON GMT &

FEEDING IN MACHINE

THERMO STRIPLE TEST

ON-LINE CHECKING

BUNDLING

ISSUE TO LINE

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Fig 55- Fusing Machine Control Panel

• full reliability with any fabric
• counting device of adhesives items on each discharge track
• instrumental diagnostics on the touch screens
• close-circuit video system for control of the adhesive product
• equipped with DESTATIK system for neutralisation of the electrostatic current
• preparation and loading system with non running belt
• cold belt for a better comfort of the work station
• start impulse through knee bandage so that the operator's hands are always free
• electronic self-adjustment of speed according to the fusing machine
• belt matheable other also for an easy working of big pieces
• selector for utilisation of always non running belts, always running belts or of some non-running and
some running belts.

15.15. CUT PANEL CHECKING

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any
objectionable faults. Panels may have faults like wrong grain line inappropriate size, incorrect shape
and any fabric detects like holes cuts ,shade variations et, that do not lie within the acceptable quality
parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component check report is filed for the total
quantity cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and equal no of fresh panels are
separately cut , replaced in the set and ticketed with the same no. as the rejected ones . Other faults
that can be rectified are marked with an alteration stickers and passed on, these will be spotted out
during garment finishing or washing.

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15.16. BUNDLING:
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties. The size
of the bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of
same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the production
department when asked for.

15.17. BUNDLING PLAN FOR A NEW STYLE:

SL.NO PIECES QUANTITY BUNDLE MAKE

2 pcs
1. Up to 200 pcs

5 pcs
2. Up to 500 pcs

After 500 pcs.

3. As per line requirement

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CHAPTER -12

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

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12.1. PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

Production planning and control involves generally the organization and planning of the manufacturing
process. Specifically, it consists of the planning of the routing, scheduling, dispatching and inspection,
co-ordination and the control of materials, methods, machines, tooling and operating times. The ultimate
objective is the organization of the supply and movement of materials and labor, machine utilization and
related activities, in order to bring about the desired manufacturing results in terms of quantity, time and
place.
12.2. HEIRARCHY IN DEPARTMENT:

Head

4 assistant planners

12.3. FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT

The planning team is involved in the whole production process right from the order booking to the
execution stage.
Depending upon the delivery date required by the buyer the team segregates the order as fast, chase and
regular order.
• Fast order have lead time of 45 days only. Here they submit only 1 sample (either fit or pp sample).
They don’t accept any change in style from buyer’s side. Without GPT cutting can proceed.
• In chase orders thy have lead time of 75 days. Here they submit 2 fit sample and 1 PP sample with all
the testing (FPT and GPT)
• For regular orders they have a lead time of 90 or more days. Here they submit up to 3 fit and 1 PP sample
with all testing.(FPT and GPT)

Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and they inform the merchants
if the company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps them
to know the capacity of the production floor.
After getting the confirmation for the order, the planning department then calculates and plans the PCD
(Plan Cut Date and prepares the rest of the schedule for the activities.The planning department takes the
approval sheets and conducts a meeting with other departments to come up with a proper planning
and scheduling dates for the particular style.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity based on the
garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components in the garment, type
of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines required to finish the garment,
any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved
during stitching of the garment if it is a complicated style and structure, the skill level required for the
various operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with respect to their skill levels required
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for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a
conclusion about planning entire style. Also when the activities don’t go as planned they need to be
ready with an alternative plan to execute the order.

Start

Provide details to the respective units

on PCD, order quantity & sample

On receiving the orders, allocate the

same to units based on line
availability

Take inputs from IE on Confirm the above Confirm in consultation

productivity based on details given to with the departments
garment analysis concerned units in involved in the process
consultation with GM

Confirm order plan with

merchandising team

Provide report to management every

fortnight

Planning follow up with factory till

order execution

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End

Capacities To be calculated:-

• Plant capacity
• Potential Capacity
• Actual Capacity
• 3 month booking capacity

Potential capacity:-

No. of working min= 60*8=480min

No. of machines=600

Avg. SAM produce= 25min

Avg. efficiency=60%

No. of working days=26

No. of pieces= (no. of machines XNo. of working days XNo. of working min)/Avg. SAM produce

=299 520=> potential capacity

= 299520 X Avg. efficiency

=179712-(10% of 179712) where, 10% of 179712 is for absenteeism

=161740.8=> Actual capacity

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Fig 56

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12.3. PPC WORKS WITH CO-ORDINATION TO VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS:

Quality
I.E

Trim store
R&D

Merchandising PPC Finishing

Sewing
CAD & section
Cutting

Fabric store

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CHAPTER -13

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

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13.1. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Industrial Engineering is concerned with design, improvement and installation of integrated
system of people, material, equipment and energy. It draws specialized knowledge in
mathematical, together with principles and method of engineering analysis and design to
specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.
The Industrial Engineer not only does the time study and capacity study he also develops the
line plan keeping in mind the constraints such as availability of machines He tries to identify
the problem areas and tries to smoothen the material flow. He also helps in making the
operation easy by providing the operator with some work aid or attachments and thus actually
help in reducing SAM and the throughput time of the garment being produced.

13.2. HIERARCHY OF THE IE DEPARTMENT

1 senior IE, 4 junior IE (1 junior IE is responsible for every 5 lines),10 data entry operator(1 for 2
lines).

IE HEAD

JUNIOR IE

DATA ENTRY
OPERATOR

13.3. PROCESS FLOW AT THE IE DEPARTMENT

• Once they received the sample from merchants the IE does the sample analysis and workout operation
bulletin.
• Operational bulletin contains the type of machine , Manpower requirement , time taken for each
operation , targets/ hour/Operation.
• Based on the Operation Bulletin machine and manpower allocation is confirmed with the available
resources.
• If it is OK line plan is drafted.
• Once the line is set as per the plan, the IE department verifies the actual production against the target
and finds out reasoning for low production.
• Based on the reality the IE shall suggest for improving the productivity by balancing machines and
manpower.
13.4. OPERATION PERFORMANCE BOOSTING
Time recorded for pick, position, sew, dispose
Method
1. Observing and noting the time for 15 minutes
2. Reading taken in seconds (900 seconds)

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3. Observe how many times the operation is repeated in 900 seconds and note down time of every
operation.
4. The number of times that operation was repeated in 15 minutes multiplied 4 gives the hourly
production.

13.5. IE ROLE FOR EVERY STYLE

At the PD merchandising stage after the samples are made for the approval of the style they are sent to
the IE department for thread consumption (OB). The operation breakdown is done by the IE persons.
At the sampling stage , the IE department gives the costing sam ,which is the price at which garment
price is finalized with the buyer.
Along with giving the costing sam the IE also performs the risk style assessment of the garment
After the order is confirmed from the buyer’s side and the sealer sample is approved from the buyer.
The IE department is required to the operation breakdown and plan the line layout using the sealer
sample. At this stage the initial sam for the garment is calculated. After the production is started, final
sam is calculated by IE on the day the highest efficiency is achieved.
The line plan is developed by the industrial engineer while keeping constraints like equipment
availability in mind. He also performs time studies and capacity studies. He makes an effort to pinpoint
the trouble spots and streamline the material flow. In addition, he makes the process simpler by giving
the operator specific tools or attachments, which actually speeds up the production of the garment and
lowers SAM.

IE role in sampling on the basis of proto and costing sample:-

• To ease the operation
• Reduce the SAM
• Machine utilization
• RA (risk assessment)
• Thread average initial

IE role in Production:-
• OB(operation bulletin)
• Line layout making(on paper)
• Line Setting(ground level)
• COT making(change over time)
• 4th day peak
• Thread average final
• Efficiency report making
• Plan vs Actual reports
• Hourly Monitering
• Line Capacity
• Line Balancing
• Boosting

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Fig 57 Style risk assessment

sheet

Fig 58 Thread consumption

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Fig 59 - Operation breakdown sheet

Fig 60 - Line layout plan

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Start

Receipt of sample

Sample
Analysis

Operation bulletin Not

Ok

Resource Analysis (Machine

and Manpower)

Ok

Line Plan

Implementation Needs any change in

operation depends on

Review

Ok

End

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Fig
Skill matrix grade 61 – grade
Skill matrix Skill Matrix grade Operation Skill Matrix
Fig 62 – Operation Skill Matrix
Operation Skill Matrix

Pressman Skill matrix

Pressman Skill matrix

Fig 63 – Checkers Skill Matrix Fig 64 – Pressman Skill Matrix
Checkers skill matrix

Checkers skill matrix

Fig 65 – Performance Boosting Sheet

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Method:

• Observing and noting the time for 15 minutes

• Reading taken in seconds (900 seconds)
• Observe how many times the operation is repeated in 900 seconds and note down time of every
operation.
• The number of times that operation was repeated in 15 minutes multiplied 4 gives the hourly
production.

Fig 66 – Thread Audit Report

Fig 67 – Hourly Individual production

sheet

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CHAPTER -14

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

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14.1. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

The R&D department is a department which is basically responsible for the technicality of a garment.
Their basic activity is to ease out the work of the production department by making garment pieces and
finding out the various issues involved that can be a hindrance in the smooth production flow.

The department consists of the following people

Fig 68 - R&D
DEPARTME
NT

Designation No. of people

HOD 1

Pattern master 2

Cutting operator 1

Head tailor 1

Tailors 4

Measurement 1
checker
Helper 1

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14.2. THE WORKING PROCEDURE

Fig 69 - R&D department has a board where they write everything about the ongoing
styles in their department. The style no., buyer, date of file receiving, tech pack receive
date, date of making 2 pc, size set etc.

The number and the type of machines used in the department are as follows:-

Type of M/C Number

5 thread overlock 1

4 thread overlock 1

Binding machine 1

Machine having
1
folder attachment

SNLS 5

The working of the R&D department starts after the file is handed over from the PPC to the R&D
department. The R&D is given 5-6 days to work on a particular style.
The procedure starts by making of 2 garment pieces of base size. Here the R&D department is given the
sample (usually PP sample) for reference along with the patterns that were used by the sampling
department. They make 2 piece of base size measurement.

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Fig 70 - TRACING OF PATTERNS FOR MAKING 2PC AND SIZE SET

Fig 71

Both the pieces are sent for washing along with a cut out piece of the original fabric (which is
basically sent from the fabric store). Before and after wash measurements are noted for both the
garment and the fabric. If there are any variations i.e if shrinkage occurs then the R&D department
revises the pattern accordingly. If patterns are changed due to shrinkage or other issues , the CAD and
cutting department are informed about the changes.

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Fig 72

Fig 73 - 1 helper from the R&D department writes the measurement in Hindi using the tech pack given
by the buyer. These are then used by the R&D operators and the production line

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After the percentage of shrinkage in the garment/ fabric has been identified, the R&D starts making the
size set sample. Firstly grading is done for size set using the base size measurement. Then they make
the size set sample. The graded size set patterns are made including the shrinkages.
All the pattern information are then sent to the CAD department for the making of the marker for bulk
cutting.

Fig 74 - R&D department is given patterns in cloth bag. The bag contains the style number
and the buyer name.

After the R&D completes the making of size set, they give a go-ahead to the cutting department to cut
10% of the total quantity.
After these initial pieces are loaded on the production line, the quality department checks the quality of
these initial pieces at every stage along with the measurements, if any changes are to made regarding
the pattern it is informed to the R&D department who revises the pattern and then informs about the
same to the CAD department.

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CHAPTER -15

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

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15.1. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The department responsible for converting the raw material (fabric) into a product (garment) is known
as production department.
The production department comprises of production lines, production managers, I.E department,
supervisors, checkers, operators etc.

15.2. HIERARCHY AT THE SEWING FLOOR

GM Production

Production
I.E
Manager

Supervisor

Tailors Feed Helpers

Ironers Non Operators

House Keeping
Personnel

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15.3. Process flow:

• Receive production file containing information such as indent/PP comments/-graded/specs/tech
pack/bom sheet and sealer sample.
• Pre-production meeting (ppm comments/shrinkage added specs/trim are posted at the end of each line).
• Check alt the trims such as thread tex labels and other trims are matching with specifications.
• Discussion with R&D department regarding the style to take appropriate action for the product.
• Supervisors are insisted to make 1pc before starting bulk to understand the style and time study along
with the help of production manager.
• Set production target as per the O.B chart and arrange all attachments.
• Carryout mocks on operation at the time of line setting.
• Mark the critical Operation at the time of line setting.
• Maintain SPI of sewing.
• Record the hourly production on production monitor board / rework and defect analysis.
• Carryout 100% quality check on stitched garments /rework Is rectified from the operation itself.

Here the production lines are 19 in number divided on three floors.

• 5 lines on the ground floor
• 8 lines on the second floor
• 6 lines on the third floor

Every 5 line has one production manager, one senior I.E, one floor incharge, 5 supervisor (1 for each
line), one QC for 2 lines, 1 QA for 5 lines.
After the initial pieces are cut in the cutting department they are sent to the production line that is planned
for that particular style. Before this the production line is set for that particular style. Setting of line here
means arranging for the different machines and attachments and arranging them sequentially. During
this line setting the supervisor makes 1 pc, by making this piece he basically defines the flow of the
garment in the production line, he also identifies the critical operation. After setting of the line supervisor
along with the I.E person decides which tailor will perform which operation.
On the first day of loading the style on the line, the supervisor guides the operator how to perform the
operation. A sample is also hung at their machines along with the description.

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Fig 75

This card is hung at each stitching machine. It contains a sample displaying the operation that is to be
performed by the operator. Along with the sample it also contains a small description of how this
operation is to be done and what are the things the operator needs to take care while performing this
operation

Fig 76

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The production line system followed here is unit flow + zig-zag.

The cut parts from the cutting department are sent to the respective production line. Along with the cut
parts a job card is also sent which is a document holding record of the no. of garments for which cut
parts are sent, the ticket numbers of the parts sent, the date, style number

Fig 77
So firstly when the cut parts reach at the line, the different parts are spread at the table and one
operator is responsible of matching the ticket no. of all the parts in a single garment and keeping it in a
basket.

Fig 78

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Fig 79

Here the movement of the cut parts, semi-finished garments takes place in the basket with each basket
containing one garment or one garment pieces.

Fig 80

Operator 1

Operator 2

Operator 3

Operator 4

Operator 5

Operator 6

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This is the movement of the basket in the line. It moves in the zig-zag form. It first goes to operator 1
then on the other side to operator 2 and so on and so forth.

Fig 81

At the end of each line, an inspection table is kept where the checker checks the garment after it has
been made. If any faults or defects are found in stitching the same is informed to the respective operator
and the garment is given back for rectification.

Fig 82

Here a software is basically used for feeding information about the production line such as output
received, defects found, efficiency achieved etc. When the garment reach the table, it is inspected by the
checker, if no defect is found the checker taps on FTT which is first time through and the count there
increases, in case of defects he taps on the defect option, then a screen is displayed containing a list of
defects, the checker clicks on the respective defect and that information gets stored. This data is used to
see in which parts of the garments the defects were more.
The other two buttons are rectifies and reject button. The pieces given for rectification are again checked,
if found to be ok the rectified button is tapped, but if the garment cannot be repaired then it is rejected.

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Fig 83

This screen displays the information about the status of the production line. It shows information such
as the day target, the actual output given , efficiency percentage at which the line is working, the operator
and helper count, the percent of FTT, defects, repair, hours left of the day, style number and the day
number for which the line is running.

Fig 84
The next thing displayed is the hourly pieces planned against the actual, cumulative output planned vs
actual, the variance (WIP).

Fig 85

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This is the screen that displays the data regarding the defects. Here the pictorial display of garment
appears with blue dots showing the place of occurrence of defects. On the side there is a graph which
highlights which defects occur and their frequency.

Fig 86

This is the technical operation bulletin which contains information such as operation name, type of
machine to be used for each operation, attachments if any, sam for each operation and total sam, target
– pcs per hour and pcs per man.

Fig 87- Accessories Swatch Card

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The accessories swatch card displays information of the accessory used in that particular style such as
the thread, zippers or buttons, labels etc.

Fig 88- Line layout

This shows the setting of the line, how the machines are placed and which operator is doing which
operation.

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CHAPTER -16

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

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16.1. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

After stitching of the garment takes place , it is found that the product coming out of line is not in a state
for immediate use. Lots of untrimmed thread, dirt, wrinkles are found on the garment. Therefore to make
it ready for use we have the finishing department which looks after the finishing of the garment to give
it a more sellable look .The finishing department involves trimming of thread, cleaning of spot dirt,
inspection, ironing.

16.2. HIERARCHY OF THE FINISHING ROOM:

GM Production

Finishing in charge

supervisor QC

Trimmer Endline checker

Helper

Data entry

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16.3. FLOW CHART

Thread cutting

Initial checking
spotting Alteration

Pressing

Measurement checking

Label checking

Tag attach

Send to Packaging

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16.4. THREAD CHECKING

This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.

Fig 89

Fig 90

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16.5. INITIAL CHECKING

Spotting
This is done to remove stains from the garments. The stains are generally pen, pencil or chalk marks, oil
spots etc. The operator use acetone or vinyl for removing spots. They have air jet spray also attached to
their table. They also use a dry air pipe which dries the wet spots.

Alteration & Measurement Checking

Fig 91

At each finishing table a measurement chart is displayed for the operators to check the measurement of
all the parts of the garment.

Fig 92

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At each table a sheet with how to measure instructions is displayed. The sheet contains the buyer name
and the style number and pictorial display of how to measure the critical parts of the garment. Critical
here refers to the part where even the slightest change in measurement is not acceptable.
Tagging section
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are sent for tagging
the labels. The labels here include the price tags and miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer .
Pressing & Folding
Once the tagging is complete the pressing and folding of garments takes place according to the buyer
specifications.

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CHAPTER -17

PACKING DEPARTMENT

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17.1. PACKING DEPARTMENT

Packing is the last stage where the finished garments are primed, organized and geared up for the
shipment to buyer. The entire process from the garment folding to the final labelling of the carton is
dictated by the buyer specifications. These Instructions are standardized for a particular order and style
and are sent to the merchandiser in the form of packing manual.

Packing is done in two stages :-

• first polybags packing is done

Fig 93 -
Polybag
packing

• And then carton packing.

Fig 94 - Carton
Packing

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Packing can be either hanger pack or fold pack.

Fold
pack

Fig 95

17.2. WORKING OF THE DEPARTMENT

After the receiving of garments from the finishing department, the garment is passed through a needle
detecting machine. Here pieces are checked for any broken part of needle. If piece is found with
needle it is removed and sent to checking.
After this the packing department receives the finished garments and a report is prepared to record the
number of pieces received. Then the size wise segregation of the garments is done.
According to buyer’s requirement hangers and sizer`s are attached to the pieces(if needed). After this
ratio wise packing is according to the purchase order provided by the buyer. Packing is in the form of
prepack and bulk pack.

Fig 96- Purchase order is provided by the buyer. Buyer also specifies the minimum and
maximum carton dimension that the factory should use in packing of the given style

Prepack is the packing of pieces of different sizes in a single poly-bag in size ratio provided by the
buyer and then packing them in a carton.

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In bulk packing a single piece is packed in a polybag (1 unit per polybag) and then these pieces are
loaded in a carton with one carton containing the pieces of one size and one colour only.

Packing type
and PO
number
Shipping
mentioned
information
is
mentioned

Style
description,
color, total
quantity unit
price is
Size wise mentioned
quantity is
mentioned

Fig 96

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Fig 97- According to Purchase order garments are placed inside the polybag

Fig 98 -The
required size of
carton is then
taken out from
the carton
storage room

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Fig 99 - These polybags are then loaded in the cartons

After loading them into cartons, carton stickers are attached to each carton, and dispatched for final
inspection.

Fig 100 - The sticker provided by the factory contains information such as P.O number,
SKU Number, Units per Prepack or bulk pack, carton number.

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Fig 101 - This carton sticker is provided by

the buyer. It contains the same information
which was provided by the buyer in the
purchase order sheet.

Fig 102 - After packing and attaching sticker the packed

cartons are stacked before they are shipped.

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Each of the carton shipped is labelled with the following information printed on each :

• Carton no. • Buyer's logo • Company name

• Style no. • Country of origin • PO No.

• Measurement of the • Address of the buyer • Date of Delivery

carton
• Weight • Size ratio chart

Fig 103

Specifications:

1. Detection mode:
2. magnetic induction
3. Detection capability: iron Φ0.8mm
4. Width of detector: 600mm
5. Height of detection: 120mm
6. Sound signaling: Beep
7. Conveyor speed: (approx.) 30m / min
8. Power supply: 220V, 50Hz
9. Power Consumption: 150W
10. Dimensions: 1598 (L) x1040 (W) x903 (H) mm
11. Weight: (about) 230kg

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The carton label contains information like -

• Carton number out of the total cartons
• PO Number
• Style Number
• Color code
• Size
• Quantity of pieces
• Carton Dimensions
• Carton Weight
• A sample swatch of the garment if required.
• The origin-country
• The destination

Some buyers like GAP ask for sensors in some oftheirstyles. Barcode

73959 - STYLE CODE

01 - COLOURCODE

2 - COUNTRY CODE

0004 - SIZECODE

There are 2 types packaging done here:

• Pre pack: Where the buyer mentions the number of pieces required in each size, to be packed together.
For ex: in the ratio- 1XS, 2S, 2M, 1L, 1XL.
• Bulk packing: where the cartons are packed with garments of the same size in the specified
quantity.After loading them into cartons, carton stickers are attached to each carton, and dispatched for
final inspection.

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CHAPTER -18

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

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18.1. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Quality is considered to be the prime factor in the acceptance and rejection of a garment. Quality
assurance is a department in a garment industry that is responsible for looking after the quality that is
being produced. It is also responsible for checking that the quality is according to the acceptable
standards of the buyer.
In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their job into different stages
of manufacturing and these are classified into four major groups which are as follows:
18.2. QUALITY AUDIT:
Before the production of a style starts the R&D department is supposed to work and note down their
findings which could be helpful in the later production process. After the R&D team has made the size
set samples the quality team reviews it to check everything is as per the specifications provided by the
buyer.
When R&D gives go ahead to the cutting department, only 10% of the whole quantity is cut, sometimes
even less. These are the initial pieces which are then loaded on to the production line. During this time
it is the responsibility of the QA to check the pieces that are being made in the line. The measurements
are checked of the garments that are coming out of the line, they are then send to the washing department
(here first they send any random 5 pieces). After washing again measurements are taken by stitching
QA and finishing QA, first without ironing and then after ironing. If any discrepancies are found in the
measurements the same is informed to the R&D department so that they can change the pattern
accordingly.
In the finishing department, first 50 pieces are checked and then comments are given to the R&D
regarding the changes that is to be made in the patterns.
After the R&D has made the necessary changes and informed the same to the CAD department, bulk go
ahead is given to the cutting department.
2 types of audit is done by the quality department :
• Cross audit- done randomly on initial pieces
• Internal audit- this is done before offering shipment. Packaging & all is checked.

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CHAPTER -19

WASHING DEPARTMENT

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19.1. WASHING DEPARTMENT

During the production of a garment it goes through various processes, which leads to the setting of dirt
, stain, oil mark etc on the garment. These garments are washed before they are finished in the finishing
department. Sometimes washing is also done to change the hand feel of the garment.
The washing department here consists of 8 people. Every production floor has its own washing
department. They have a capacity of 20,000 garment.

19.2. THE WORKING

Fig 104 -
Bulk
washing
machine

One washing department consists of 4 bulk washing machine. The weight of the garment is taken, so
that it is loaded in the machine according to the machine’s capacity. Before starting the wash process,
they check the washcare label of the garment. This label provides them information regarding the
amount of water to be taken, the type of wash that is desired for the garment. 2gm/liter of chemical is
taken (cationic/silicon). They maintain the pH with the help of citric acid.
In case of garments that can color bleed they first wash them with water and then antiback stain or color
fixer is used.

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Fig 105 -
Sample
washing
machine

They have one sample wash machine. 10-12 samples are washed together.

Fig 106

Sometimes to attain a soft hand feel the garments are dipped for a minimum of 20 minutes in softener.
Also when the fabric arrives in house the fabric shrinkage is checked, for this the fabric is dipped in
water for about 24 hours.

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Fig 107
After the garments are washed they are transferred into the hydro-extractor machine, to extract the
water from the washed garments. They have 1 hydro-extractor machine per production floor.
After water is extracted then as per the washcare label they are either tumble dried or line dried.
There are two tumble dryer machines – XCEL, FABCARE

Fig 108- TUMBLE DRYER

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Fig 109 - LINE DRY

In the washing department they also have a spotting area where they remove any such stain or oil marks that
are found on the garments.

SPOTTING AREA

Fig 110

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CHAPTER -19

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

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19.1. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

Maintenance is a system of maintaining plant machinery and utilities to ensure continuing process
capacity.

19.2. HIERARCHY

Head of Department

Senior Mechanic -4

Junior Mechanic( 1 for every 4 line)

19.3. AN EFFECTIVE MAINTENANCE PROGRAM HAS THE FOLLOWING AIMS:

• To maintain the equipment’s at their maximum operating speeds and maintaining production efficiency.
• To ensure the best possible level of quality of the product.
• To minimize the idle time resulting from machinery breakdowns. To reduce to minimum, the cost of
maintenance consistent with the above objectives.
19.4. PROCEDURE OF MAINTENANCE:
After the 7 day pre-production meeting, the IE department informs the maintenance department about
the machine and attachments that are required for the upcoming style. The responsibility of the
maintenance department is then to arrange for the attachments and required number of machines. Here,
they firstly check the available machines (machines that were used in the previous style) and then
arrange for the difference amount. The same is followed for the attachments.
During the line setting, the responsibility of the maintenance department is to set the particular machine
i.e to check that the machine is in the right working condition, attachments are attached properly, in
other words preventive maintenance is performed at that time.

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CHAPTER -20

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

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20.1. EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

It is the area in the industry which deals with the liquid waste which is produced from the industry. The
effluent treatment is designed in such a way to get rid of the maximum impurities from the water before
releasing it.
20.2. THE WORKING

Fig 111

The ETP here consists of two tanks water tanks 1& 2. Tank 1 stores the water that is discharged from
the industry whereas tank 2 stores the treated water (water free from the chemicals). The water from
tank no.2 is discharged to the sewages.

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Fig 112
APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT 2023

Three kinds of chemicals are used for treating the waste water. If in tank no.1 the water is colored then
it is treated with ferrous sulphite, Alum and hydrated lime otherwise only alum and hydrated lime is
used.
After the water is treated with the above chemicals, it is transferred to tank no.2. Before transferring the
water from tank 1 to tank 2 the sludge is separated in another tank.

Fig 113

Also, the worker is supposed to look after the pH of the water in tank 1. He is supposed to maintain the
pH within 7. He uses a pH meter for this purpose.

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CHAPTER -21

PLANT LAYOUT

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BASEMENT PLAN

Fig 114

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Fig 115

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GROUND PLAN

Fig 116

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FIRST FLOOR PLAN

Fig 117

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SECOND FLOOR PLAN

Fig 118

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THIRD FLOOR PLAN

Fig 119

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TIME STUDY
Style- 533919

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STYLE-# 533919
Op.No. 1ST Reading 2ND 3RD 4th 5th Avg. SAM Avg. SAM in (min)
(in seconds) (in sec)
1 25 30 38 36 34 32.6 0.54
2 28 38 36 34 32 33.6 0.56
3 33 35 30 35 40 34.6 0.57
4 32 30 35 30 36 32.6 0.54
5 35 35 40 40 35 37 0.61
6 40 40 45 45 35 41 0.68
7 45 40 45 42 40 42.4 0.70
8 35 35 45 40 44 39.8 0.66
9 42 40 42 40 43 41.4 0.69
1 40 42 35 35 42 38.8 0.64
0
1 44 35 35 40 40 38.8 0.64
1
1 36 35 37 37 40 37 0.61
2
1 75 75 75 84 82 78.2 1.3
3
1 44 40 38 36 36 38.8 0.64
4
1 36 34 35 38 40 36.6 0.61
5
1 60 60 65 65 60 62 1.03
6
1 35 40 35 40 35 37 0.61
7
1 40 44 44 42 40 42 0.7
8
1 40 35 36 37 40 37.6 0.62
9
2 40 35 35 36 39 37 0.61
0
2 35 35 40 40 35 37 0.61
1
2 30 35 30 34 35 32.8 0.54
2
2 75 75 75 78 80 76.6 1.27

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3
2 40 35 40 44 40 39.8 0.66
4
2 40 35 40 35 40 38 0.63
5
2 77 74 80 84 81 79.2 1.32
6
2 40 38 35 40 40 38.6 0.64
7
2 35 35 40 40 35 37 0.61
8
2 76 79 80 81 82 79.6 1.32
9
3 36 35 30 30 40 34.2 0.57
0
3 35 35 30 30 34 32.8 0.54
1
3 35 30 30 34 34 32.6 0.54
2
3 40 40 35 35 40 38 0.63
3
3 75 75 80 75 75 76 1.26
4
3 44 40 40 40 40 40.8 0.68
5
3 38 40 38 40 45 40.2 0.67
6
TOTAL SAM 1572 24.32

ORIGINAL SAM:- 21.23

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TIME STUDY
Style- 693919

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PLEATED SKIRT:

Operation.No. Operation Machine 1 st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Avg. SAM in (min)

1 Belt shell and lining run stitch Kansel 0.36 0.38 0.35 0.37 O.36 0.364
2 Belt crease Pressing 1.45 1.6 1.14 1.5 1.55 1.448
3 Lining center back joint 6th overlock 0.5 0.45 0.55 0.4 0.5 0.594
4 Lining side joint 6th overlock 1 0.96 0.96 0.91 0.9 0.946
5 Waist line pleat stay stitch SNLS 0.96 0.83 1.5 0.83 0.9 1.004
6 Shell side attach SNLS 1.5 1.18 1.5 1.2 1.4 1.356
7 Side serge 6th overlock 0.73 0.7 0.65 0.72 0.67 0.694
8 Open pleat tuck at side SNLS 0.63 0.6 0.61 0.6 0.62 0.612
9 Shell bottom serge SNLS 0.94 0.93 0.95 1 0.9 0.944
10 Shell bottom hem SNLS 1 1.2 1.1 0.9 1.1 1.06
11 Lining bottom hem SNLS 0.78 0.8 0.75 0.83 0.75 0.782
12 Shell and lining attach at SNLS 1.4 1.1 1 1.3 1.1 1.18
waistline
13 Main label attach SNLS 0.36 0.5 0.4 0.35 0.4 0.402
14 Elastic cut and joint acc.to SNLS 0.83 0.75 0.77 0.85 0.9 0.82
meter
15 Belt side attach SNLS 0.74 0.8 0.75 0.7 0.83 0.764
16 Belt attach with waist SNLS 1.5 1.3 1.2 1.35 1.4 1.35
17 Waist elastic tuck SNLS 1.68 1.8 1.66 1.9 2 1.808
18 Belt finish with elastic SNLS 1.5 1.45 1.6 1.65 1.73 1.586
19 WCL attach SNLS 0.75 0.6 0.83 0.7 0.65 0.706
20 Bottom pleat set SNLS 3.5 4 4.2 4.1 4.5 4.06
TOTAL SAM 22.48

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PROJECT 1

UPSKLLING OPERATOR’S SKILL MATRIX

By
SHIVANI PRIYA
DFT/20/656

Under the Guidance of

Mr. Jayathilala Laxman
(IE Manager)

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Problem Statement
The garment industry faces a critical challenge of high absenteeism among sewing operators,
impacting production timelines and efficiency. This problem statement highlights the urgency to
implement upskilling programs for sewing operators. The absenteeism disrupts workflow, leading to
decreased productivity and increased costs. By providing comprehensive upskilling initiatives,
operators can acquire diverse skills, enabling a more flexible workforce to mitigate the impact of
absenteeism. This solution not only addresses the absenteeism issue but also enhances operational
resilience, improving overall productivity and competitiveness within the garment industry.

Objectives of the Project

The objective of this project is to address the challenge of high absenteeism among sewing operators
in the garment industry by implementing upskilling initiatives. The primary goal is to equip sewing
operators with the skills necessary to perform multiple operations, allowing for seamless task
transition in case of absenteeism. The project aims to achieve this through the following points:
1. Dual Proficiency: Train operators to excel in two sewing operations.
2. Operational Continuity: Enable seamless task transition when an operator is absent.
3. Reduced Disruption: Minimize production delays caused by absenteeism.
4. Flexibility: Build a versatile workforce capable of multi-tasking.
5. Enhanced Efficiency: Maintain consistent productivity and product quality

Fig 120

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WEEKLY OPERATOR’S TRAINING PROCESS

STEP-1
Low Skilled operators are selected from every floor (5-6 each) weekly.

S CARD OPERATOR
AGE EDU. GRADE Floor
NO. NO. NAME

PF 10
1 POOJA 24 B G/F
0438 TH

PF
2 GANITA 28 8 TH B G/F
0558

NF 12
3 PRIYA 35 B+ G/F
0416 TH

HG
4 KOUSHALYA 40 5 TH B+ G/F
0873

HG 10
5 MEERA 32 B+ G/F
0440 TH

S CARD OPERATOR
AGE EDU. GRADE Floor
NO. NO. NAME

PF
1 USHA 32 5TH B+ 2nd
0331

PF 12
2 RITU 29 B+ 2nd
0619 TH

PF 12
3 SARITA 32 A 2nd
0523 TH

NF
4 PRITI 26 8 TH B 2nd
2323

NF
5 PHOOLTARA 25 8 TH B 2nd
2689

S CARD OPERATOR
AGE EDU. GRADE Floor
NO. NO. NAME

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NF 10
1 KHUSHBU 19 B+ 3rd
2224 TH

PF
2 NEHA 23 B.A. B 3rd
0979

HG 10
3 FARAD 18 B 3rd
1146 TH

NF 12
4 KAVITA 31 B 3rd
1230 TH

PF 12
5 VANDANA 25 B+ 3rd
0956 TH
STEP-2
Maintain data like previously, which operations are being done by operators on the floor, and now in
which operations they required to upgrade their skill.

CURRENT REQUIRED
PRESENT REQUIRED
MACHINE MACHINE
SKILL SKILL
SKILL SKILL

SIDE SERGE AT O/L

SNLS SNLS
SHELL ATTACHMENT

SNLS SNLS SIDE PINCH BOTTOM FOLD

CODE LABEL
SNLS SNLS PINCH STITCH
ATTACH

LACE STAY
SNLS SNLS PINCH STITCH
STITCH

SNLS SNLS PATTI JOINT BOTTOM FOLD

STEP-3
Maintaining and Track Operator’s attendance on a daily basis during the training program.

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STEP-4
Skill matrix operators, trained on required operations for a week and maintain their performance or
efficiency sheet by the training center.

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STEP-5
Last step is to handover the operators to their respective floors and track their efficiency, quality, etc.
for operations they got trained, on the floor for 10 days.

STEP-6
Last step is to handover the operators to their respective floors and track their efficiency, quality, etc.
for operations they got trained, on the floor for 10 days.
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SKILL EVALUATION CRITERIA

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Annex 03 [ B grade]

1 elastic attach to waist band S/N

2 facing attach S/N

3 flat lock top stitch F/L

4 front & back rise O/L

5 front placket attach by folder S/N

6 gathering S/N

7 label attach to body S/N

8 top stitch on collar S/N

9 top stitch on cuff S/N

10 collar make S/N

11 cuff make S/N

12 in seam tack S/N

13 shoulder join O/L

14 side seam tack S/N

15 top stitch shoulder S/N

16 York attach O/L

17 cored making S/N

18 elastic tack S/N

19 piping tack S/N

20 pocket hem S/N

21 sleeve tack S/N

22 wash label tack S/N

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OUTCOME

Finally, we have our upgraded skill matrix list of those Operators

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PROJECT 2

QUALITY CONTROL: GAP SOP AUDIT

By
SAMRAGYI PANDEY
&
ASHWANI KUMAR

Under the Guidance of

AAKARSHIKA OPAL

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Problem Statement
The challenge at hand involves the omission of '5S' (Sort, set in order, Shine, Standardize, Sustain) practices
and dedicated Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) tailored for the esteemed GAP brand in the apparel
industry. This oversight has triggered operational inefficiencies and inconsistencies in the manufacturing
process. The absence of organized processes and adherence to SOPs has resulted in compromised workflow,
quality control, and overall efficiency. Failing to implement '5S' and GAP's SOPs not only disrupts production
but also jeopardizes product quality, timely deliveries, and customer satisfaction. Rectifying this issue is vital to
establish a strong foundation for seamless operations and to uphold the brand's reputation in the competitive
apparel landscape.

Objectives of the Project

The project's primary goal is to enhance the efficiency of apparel production processes by
comprehensively evaluating and refining the existing Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs). By
carefully reviewing and optimizing these procedures, the project aims to establish a strong framework
that aligns with the brand's standards and industry best practices. This alignment is vital for ensuring
the smooth production of garments and their successful export to target markets.
The project involves a thorough analysis of the production workflow, spanning from sourcing raw
materials to conducting final quality checks. By identifying areas that require improvement,
standardization, and alignment with GAP's benchmarks, the project ensures not only compliance but
also an enhanced level of precision and quality throughout the production process.
The project has several key objectives:
1. Enhancing Compliance: By revisiting and enhancing existing SOPs, the project seeks to strengthen
compliance across the entire production process. This involves scrutinizing each stage and operation to
ensure they meet the brand's specific requirements.
2. Successful Export: Beyond production, the project is dedicated to ensuring the successful export of
manufactured garments. Aligning the SOPs with export-oriented benchmarks aims to facilitate the
export process and the movement of products to global markets.
3. Improved Quality: Elevating product quality is a central focus of the project. By integrating quality
checkpoints and standardized processes within the SOPs, the project aims to enhance the overall
quality of garments produced, aligning with GAP's high standards.
4. Operational Flexibility: The project also aims to enhance operational flexibility and adaptability. The
revised SOPs will not only guide day-to-day operations but also equip the workforce to effectively
respond to unexpected challenges and fluctuations in demand.

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PACKING DEPARTMENT
S.NO. QUESTION PROBLEM SUGGESTION
1 Is there good Direct sunlight falls Window screen
housekeeping of the on the packed should be installed
department? cartons from the in all the windows to
window. avoid sunlight.
Carton pile height
should be
maintained while
stacking cartons.
2 No sharp tool area. Scissors were used As packing is a no
for cartons. sharp tool zone,
wooden knife can be
used instead of
scissors.
3 Is there proper Metal detector Metal detector is
maintenance of the machine not in important as the
machines? working condition. garment should be
checked after
production. So, the
machine should be
maintained on a
daily basis and must
be used.
4 Are all records No record of Record should be
properly rejected garment is maintained for
maintained? maintained. rejected garment to
keep a record of
production also.

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WAREHOUSE
S.NO. QUESTION PROBLEM SUGGESTION
1 Is there good Most condition is More racks should
housekeeping of the met, except there are be installed for later.
department? some minor issues Windows must be
which has no covered with gauge
immediate harm on curtain.
current situation.
2 Are all storages No sufficient space Installation of new
organized and stored and overall is poorly racks covered with
indoors? organized. curtain.
3 Are there adequate No relaxation Factory may use a
relaxation and pre- process at all. combination of racks
shrinkage with or plastic sheet to
record? relax the fabric as
long as it is clean
with clear labels.
4 Is light box, shade GAP approved light Use of light source
band and qualified source not used. as approved by
colorist available? No record of GAP.
Munsell test Munsell test report
available. with operator’s
name and picture
should be
maintained.
5 Are rejected bulk Found rejected lots Rejected lots of raw
lots separate with were mixed with the materials and trims
clear label? rest of the bulk in must be stored in a
packing and not locked room.
clearly marked. (Mention the
operators name a
picture outside the
designated area.

INSTALLATION OF NEW RACKS COVERED WITH CURTAINS:

BEFORE AFTER

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT
S.NO. QUSETION PROBLEM SUGGESTION
1 Is there proper No use of measuring As for cutting, fabric
control of pile height tools to determine is laid on the table
in the cutting pile height. according to the pile
section? height mentioned in
the cutting report.
Pile height
measuring tool
should be used to
accomplish proper
cutting of the fabric.
2 Are all machines in Some machines need Fusing machine and
good condition and monthly bend knife need
maintained timely. maintenance while monthly
some need yearly. maintenance.
But maintenance of Fusing machine
machines is not done needs a yearly
timely. calibration.
3 Is there work in No WIP report A digital WIP
progress balance maintained on a should be
between cutting and daily basis. maintained on a
production output to daily basis to check
adequately fulfill the proper working
daily production of the cutting
requirement? department.
4 Is there good Not enough space As per 5s rules there
housekeeping? for the fabric to should be a proper
rest(fabric lying on fabric relaxation
the floor) and area and an adequate
shortage of dustbins amount of trolleys
in the cutting and dustbins.
department.
5 Is fusing quality Interlining adhesive Bonding strength
acceptable? strength is not should be checked
checked on a daily and done as per the
basis. brand.

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ANNEXURE

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BIBLIOGRAPHY:
https://www.pempro.com/
https://www.ambitionbox.com/overview/pee-empro-exports-overview
https://campaigns.fibre2fashion.com/2020/SustainabilityV/PeeEmpro.asp

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