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Wave Dynamics in Coastal Engineering

The document discusses wave dynamics in coastal engineering, highlighting phenomena such as standing waves, wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and breaking. It emphasizes the importance of understanding these dynamics for predicting coastal erosion, designing protection structures, and ensuring navigation safety. The conclusion stresses the need for sustainable strategies to protect coastlines and valuable resources.

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therezze
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19 views9 pages

Wave Dynamics in Coastal Engineering

The document discusses wave dynamics in coastal engineering, highlighting phenomena such as standing waves, wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and breaking. It emphasizes the importance of understanding these dynamics for predicting coastal erosion, designing protection structures, and ensuring navigation safety. The conclusion stresses the need for sustainable strategies to protect coastlines and valuable resources.

Uploaded by

therezze
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Wave Dynamics in

Coastal Engineering
This presentation explores the fundamental aspects of wave
dynamics in coastal engineering, focusing on key phenomena that
play a crucial role in shaping coastlines and influencing coastal
protection strategies.
Standing Waves: Oscillations in Coastal
Environments
Definition Formation
Standing waves are a type of wave that appears to be These waves form when two waves of equal amplitude and
stationary, exhibiting a pattern of alternating nodes frequency travelling in opposite directions interfere
(points of minimal displacement) and antinodes (points with each other, creating a stationary wave pattern.
of maximum displacement).
Wave Shoaling: The
Impact of Depth on
Wave Propagation
1 Definition 2 Physical
Wave shoaling refers to Processes
the changes in wave As waves approach the
characteristics (height, shore and enter shallower
length, speed) as they water, their speed
travel from deeper water decreases due to friction
towards shallower depths. with the seabed, leading
to a decrease in
wavelength and a
corresponding increase in
wave height.

3 Factors Affecting Shoaling


The degree of shoaling is influenced by various factors,
including water depth, seabed slope, and wave
characteristics (period, height).
Wave Refraction:
Bending Waves Along
the Coastline
1 Definition
Wave refraction occurs when waves bend as they travel
through water of varying depth, causing changes in
wave direction and energy distribution.

2 Impact on Energy Distribution


Refraction concentrates wave energy on headlands and
shorelines with shallower depths, leading to increased
erosion in those areas. Conversely, wave energy is
dispersed in areas of deeper water, promoting
deposition.

3 Erosion and Deposition


The differential wave energy distribution due to
refraction significantly influences coastal erosion
and deposition patterns, leading to the shaping of
coastlines.
Wave Diffraction:
Waves Encountering
Obstacles
Definition
Wave diffraction is the phenomenon where waves bend
1 and spread out as they pass through an opening or
around an obstacle, causing changes in wave
propagation patterns.

Propagation Around Obstacles


When waves encounter structures like breakwaters or
2 headlands, diffraction causes them to bend around
these obstacles, reducing wave energy on the
protected side.

Engineering Design
Understanding diffraction is crucial in coastal
3 engineering design to ensure the effectiveness of
structures like breakwaters and seawalls, which rely
on diffraction to dissipate wave energy.
Wave Breaking:
Dissipating Energy at
the Shore
Definition Types of Breaking
Wave breaking occurs when Spilling: Gradual
the wave height exceeds a breaking with foam
critical value, causing the spreading across the
wave to collapse and release wave crest
its energy. Plunging: Sharp breaking
with a curling crest
collapsing onto the
water surface
Surging: Breaking with a
smooth, continuous wave
front without
significant foam

Factors Influencing Breaking


Wave breaking is influenced by factors like wave height, water
depth, seabed slope, and wave period.
Energy Dissipation During Wave Breaking

Erosion and Transport


Heat Generation Wave breaking plays a significant
Turbulent Water Motion The friction and mixing during role in coastal erosion and sediment
Wave breaking involves turbulent breaking generate heat, further transport, as it transfers energy to
water motion and air entrainment, contributing to energy dissipation. the seabed, influencing sediment
resulting in the rapid dissipation movement and beach profile changes.
of wave energy.
Understanding Wave
Dynamics: Importance
for Coastal Protection

Coastal Navigation Offshore


Erosion Safety Structures
Understanding wave Wave dynamics The design of
dynamics is crucial influence navigation offshore structures,
for predicting and safety, affecting like wind turbines
mitigating coastal vessel movements and and oil platforms,
erosion, designing harbor design. By requires thorough
coastal protection understanding wave understanding of
structures to behavior, engineers wave dynamics to
minimize damage and can create safer ensure stability and
protect valuable navigation channels resilience in harsh
coastal assets. and harbors. marine environments.
Conclusion: Applying
Wave Dynamics in
Coastal Engineering
Understanding wave dynamics is fundamental to effective coastal
engineering. By considering these phenomena, coastal engineers can
design and implement sustainable coastal protection strategies
that protect our shorelines and preserve valuable coastal
resources for future generations.

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