corvus_kit_documentation
corvus_kit_documentation
CORVUS
BASED ON BUILD DIFFICULTY
EHX Big Muff Pi (1978 Op-Amp)
® ® Easy
EFFECT TYPE DOCUMENT VERSION
Fuzz / Distortion 1.0.1 (2024-08-08)
PROJECT SUMMARY
The 1978 redesign of the classic Big Muff Pi, using op-amps instead of transistors. Famously used by
Billy Corgan on the Smashing Pumpkins album Siamese Dream.
9V
TONE
VOLUME SUSTAIN
TONE BYPASS
CORVUS
DISTORTION SUSTAINER
IMPORTANT NOTE
This documentation is for the kit version of the project. If you purchased the PCB by itself, please
use the PCB-only version of the documentation instead. The circuit is the same, but the instructions
are completely different due to the specialized parts and assembly methods used in the kit.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1 Project Overview
2 Table of Contents
3 Introduction
4 Packing List
5 Packing List (Cont.)
6 Tools Needed
7 Component Identification
8 Hardware Identification
9 PCB Assembly Overview
10 Resistors
11 Diodes
12 ICs & Sockets
13 Capacitors (Non-Polarized)
14 Wire Headers
15 Capacitors (Polarized)
16 Footswitch PCB
17 Input/Output PCB
18 Enclosure Layout: Panel Mounts
19 Enclosure Layout: Panel Mounts (Cont.)
20 Enclosure Layout: Main & Footswitch PCBs
21 Enclosure Layout: Input/Output PCB
22 Final Testing & Assembly
23 Schematic
24 Full Parts List
25 Troubleshooting Information
26 Support & Resale Terms
27 Legal Information & Document Revisions
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INTRODUCTION
If this is your first pedal, welcome to the hobby and thank you for choosing Aion FX. You’ve just joined
a community of over 100,000 people around the world with a passion for building homemade noise
machines using obsolete electronics technology, and we’re glad to have you!
If you’ve done this before, it’s great to see you again and we’re confident you’ll find this build experience
an enjoyable one.
Aion FX kits are designed to empower anyone to build a high-quality pedal, no matter the skill level.
The pedalbuilding hobby has traditionally had a steep learning curve, but don’t be overwhelmed—we’ve
done all the hard work for you. All you need to do is follow these instructions and you’ll be on your way
to transforming your tone.
• You’re going to have to get your hands dirty—there’s no way around it. Nothing here comes
preassembled, and you’ll have to learn the skills to put it all together. This document will walk you
through everything you need, but be prepared to learn a few things along the way.
• This will take time. Plan on about two hours start to finish. It may take even longer if it’s your first
time building. Don’t rush it. If you find yourself getting frustrated or overwhelmed, take a break and
come back in a couple of hours or the next day.
• No direct technical support is offered. There are several DIY forums and Facebook groups with
thousands of members who enjoy troubleshooting and teaching. But please be sensitive to the fact
that the staff at Aion FX is minimal, and every minute spent helping individuals in private is time
that can’t be spent on new project development.
• There is no implied guarantee of a final product. Aion FX provides the ingredients and the recipe,
but you are responsible for putting everything together to make it work. We’ve tried to make the
process as clear and accessible as possible, but it must be expressly stated that purchasing the kit is
not a guarantee that you will end up with a working pedal.
It’s recommended to read through all of the instructions before you start, particularly if you’ve never
built a pedal before. If you familiarize yourself with the entire process ahead of time and you know what
the goal looks like, each step will make more sense.
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PACKING LIST
This is a list of all the parts that are included with the kit, grouped by value. For a list of all the parts
based on their PCB part numbers, please see page 24.
If you find that any parts are missing or damaged, please fill out the Missing Parts form.
1uF 2 47k 3
56k 1
Electrolytic Capacitors 62k 1
10uF 2 220k 2
47uF 2 330k 1
100uF 1 470k 1
560k 1
MLCC Capacitors 820k 1
NAME QTY 1M 1
RC4558P 1 1N914 6
LM741 1
8-pin socket 2
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PACKING LIST (CONT.)
Potentiometers Switches
NAME QTY NAME QTY
10kB 2 Toggle switch, SPDT on-on 1
Enclosure 1
Enclosure screws 4
PCB, footswitch 1
PCB, input/output/DC 1
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TOOLS NEEDED
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COMPONENT IDENTIFICATION
If you’ve never built a pedal before, you’ll need to know what all the components are. These are shown
actual size. (Not all of these types of components may be part of this kit.)
Not polarized. Color may Polarized. The negative side Not polarized. MLCC stands for Polarized. The positive side
vary by brand and type. is marked. “multi-layer ceramic capacitor.” is marked.
Charge pumps and delay chips Some voltage regulators It’s recommended to use a
also look like this. They may also look like this. razor blade to separate
have more than 8 legs. these cleanly.
LED BEZEL
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HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION
The hardware comes unassembled, so you’ll need to sort & identify each of the pieces. The diagrams
below are actual size, so you can set them against the printed page to identify them if needed.
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PCB ASSEMBLY OVERVIEW
Now it’s time to start building!
1. Resistors
2. Diodes
3. IC sockets
4. MLCC capacitors
5. Film capacitors
6. Transistors
7. Electrolytic capacitors
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RESISTORS
Using the parts list above, populate the resistors by pushing them through the holes and bending the
leads outward at an angle to hold them in place. Resistors are not polarized, so they will work in any
direction. Turn the board upside-down to keep the components held in place while you solder.
You’ll use this same technique for most of the other components as well.
If this is your first time soldering, watch tutorial videos on YouTube and make sure you get it down
before you begin. You don’t want to practice or experiment on this board!
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DIODES
D2 1N914 D6 1N914
D3 1N914 D7 1N914
D4 1N914
Next, you’ll populate the diodes. Diodes are polarized, so make sure to identify the polarity band (which
indicates the “cathode”, or negative side) and match the band to the footprint on the PCB.
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IC & SOCKETS
PART VALUE
IC1 RC4558P
IC2 LM741
Next up are the IC sockets. You can’t bend the leads of a socket like you can with the other components,
so it won’t stay in on its own until it is soldered.
Again, it’s much easier to do this upside down with gravity holding it in place for you, so you’ll want do
this before you do any of the taller components.
The legs of the IC are bent outward slightly during manufacturing, so they’ll need to be bent back inward
before it can be inserted into the socket.
It’s easiest to do this by laying the IC legs against the table and bending the body itself so all four legs on
the side are straightened out at once. Then, flip it and do the other side.
ICs may have two different orientation marks: either a dot in the upper-left or a half-circle notch in the
middle of the top side. Some ICs have both marks. This shows which way the IC should be rotated when
inserting it into a socket. The socket also has a half-circle notch to indicate the orientation.
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CAPACITORS (NON-POLARIZED)
After the sockets come the box film and MLCC capacitors. These are all several different heights, but
there aren’t as many, so just do them all at once. Bend the leads at an angle to hold them in place.
MLCCs and box capacitors are not polarized and will work in any direction. To keep things neat, though,
it’s recommended to put them all facing the same way.
Note: C2 and C3 are usually blue box-film capacitors. For these, the value is printed on the top rather
than the side. C9 is usually red, but may read “µ1J100” on the top rather than the side.
C20 (100n MLCC) is always yellow. It can be hard to read the code since it’s so small, so it’s easier to
identify this one by color.
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WIRE HEADERS
Install the two 3-pin headers (wire connectors) as shown above. These have a polarity pin, so as long
as they are pressed all the way down, there’s only one possible way to install them. They do fit pretty
tightly in the holes, though, so press firmly.
There’s also a 4-pin header on the I/O board that we will do in a later step.
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CAPACITORS (POLARIZED)
PART VALUE
C4 10uF electro
C5 10uF electro
Populate the electrolytic capacitors. These are the tallest components so we save them for last. They are
polarized (i.e. they will only work in one direction), so note the vertical mark that indicates the negative
side. The longer leg is positive and fits in the square pad.
These are the last of the on-board components. Now is the time to go back to page 12 and insert the IC
into the socket.
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FOOTSWITCH PCB
PARTS
3-strand wire assembly (2)
Next, it’s time to finish up the footswitch board. You should have done most of the on-board components
on this board in a previous step, but if not, go back and do those.
There will be one longer assembly with 4 wires and two shorter ones with 3 wires. The longer one goes
in the middle and the shorter ones go on the left and right sides. The wire assemblies should then be
soldered to the footswitch board as shown.
BLUE
MARKING
Once all three wire assemblies are soldered, set the footswitch PCB aside. We’ll solder the actual
footswitch and LED in a later step.
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INPUT/OUTPUT PCB
PARTS
Input & output jacks
DC jack
Wire header
9V battery snap
Almost done! Get the two input/output jacks, the DC jack and the wire header and snap them in place.
The PCB is designed for them to fit securely, so you can do them all at once before flipping and soldering.
After you’ve soldered everything, make sure to snip the leads on the I/O jacks as close as possible to
the PCB. There’s not a lot of clearance between the bottom of this board and the top of the main PCB
once everything is in place, and you don’t want the pins to short against anything on accident.
Next, we’ll hook up the 9V battery connector. This is optional. Not everyone uses batteries. But, if you
do, this pedal should last a long time on a single 9V so you won’t need to change it very often.
STEP 1 STEP 2
Thread the battery snap leads through the strain- Bend the exposed wires back down and solder them
relief hole twice so it forms a single loop. into the pads. Red is positive (+), black is negative (-).
After soldering, pull it tight.
For even more strain relief, you can thread the snap
through the loop to form a knot. (not shown)
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ENCLOSURE LAYOUT: PANEL MOUNTS
Attach the hardware to the enclosure as shown. (The I/O board is done in a later step.)
10kB
SPDT
on-on
MOUNTING NUT
LOCK WASHER
BEZEL
& LED
MOUNTING NUT
DRESS NUT
FOOTSWITCH
The dress nut fits over the top of the mounting nut and is for aesthetic
purposes only. Wrap a rubber band around it to use as a grip when tightening.
Do not use metal tools on it or you run the risk of scratching or denting it.
125B
Volume: 100kA
MOUNTING NUT
LOCK RING
LOCK WASHER
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 18
ENCLOSURE LAYOUT: PANEL MOUNTS (CONT.)
10kB
SPDT
on-on
MOUNTING NUT
LOCK WASHER
The dress nut acts as a mounting nut, unlike the footswitch dress nut. Use flat-
FOOTSWITCH nose pliers on the flat sides of the nut to tighten securely.
125B
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ENCLOSURE LAYOUT: MAIN & FOOTSWITCH PCBS
Once all of the pins are through their holes and the PCB is laying
flat, solder each of the pins from the top. Be careful not to touch
any of the surrounding components with the soldering iron.
After you’ve finished soldering the pots, clip the leads as close
as you can to the main PCB. This is more important with the
two uppermost pots because the input/output PCB overlaps
them and you need to avoid any of the components shorting.
(The toggle switch lugs do not need to be clipped.)
Next, move to the footswitch board and solder the 3PDT switch.
If you’ve read the documentation carefully and followed all the instructions, there’s a good chance you
will get it right the first time!
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 20
ENCLOSURE LAYOUT: INPUT/OUTPUT PCB
Affix the input/output PCB to the north-facing panel of the enclosure as shown.
Note the use of two mounting nuts on each of the jacks, one inside and one outside. The inner nut acts as
a spacer to set the DC jack flush with the outside of the enclosure. The inner nuts should be threaded as
far down as they can go.
MOUNTING NUT
OUTER WASHER
LOCK WASHER
MOUNTING NUT
125B
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FINAL TESTING & ASSEMBLY
After everything is in place, plug the 3 wire assemblies into their respective headers and make sure
they’re secure. Here is a cross-section of the inside of the completed pedal.
At this point, you have completed the full circuit as far as the electrons are concerned. Plug in a 9-volt
supply and test it out with a guitar and an amplifier.
Test the bypass switch a few times, then start turning the knobs and see if everything sounds OK. If it
works, great! If not, don’t be discouraged. See page 24 for troubleshooting info.
Finishing touches
Now, just a couple of things for the final assembly. Turn the shafts all fully counter-clockwise, then put
on the knob and rotate until the indicator line is aligned with the dot on the enclosure that shows the
zero point. Affix the knobs to each of the potentiometer shafts as shown in the diagram below.
Using a small flat-head screwdriver (no more than 0.1” / 2.5mm in diameter), firmly tighten the set screw
until it presses against the shaft of the potentiometer and holds the knob in place.
Be careful not to over-tighten or you may damage the set screw. But if it’s not tight enough, the knob will
be more likely to fall off or lose its alignment with the markings on the enclosure.
Last, just close the panel on the back using the four screws. That’s it!
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 22
SCHEMATIC
+9V VA
D1 R20
820k
R16
R18
100n 100uF
R19
1M
47uF 47uF
150n
C11
4n7
C3
R13
VA
47k
10uF
VC
R5 IC2
C5
VA
VB LM741
100n
560k
7
1
3 5
C9
3
IC1A
1uF
6
SUSTAIN
C6
IC1B R9
8
RC4558P
10kB
3 2
150n
R3 R4 RC4558P TONE_BYP
1 5 3
2
C1
R1 8k2
3
2 7 2
4
8
IN 10k 47k
TONE
C2 C8
10kB
6 1
1
56k
4
3
10n GND 1uF
RPD
2M2
VOLUME
C7
100kA
1
62k
R11
R6
GND OUT
330pF
2
R2 GND R7 5k6
C10
100k
1
R15
R10
R12
R14
47k
1k2
GND 330k C4 47R
120n
470k
OMIT
R8
10uF
D2 D3 D4
GND GND
GND GND GND
GND
GND D7 D6 D5
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 23
FULL PARTS LIST
Resistors Diodes
PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE
R1 56k R9 8k2 R17 220k D1 1N5817
Capacitors
PART VALUE PART VALUE PART VALUE
C1 150n C6 1uF C11 150n
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TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
If you finish building the kit and find that it doesn’t work right, we’ve written a separate in-depth
Troubleshooting Guide that applies to all of our kits. The main troubleshooting process is covered there.
Here you will find information specific to this kit that will help with that process.
Voltages
The following voltages are taken from our prototype unit using a 9.60V supply. Your measured voltages
won’t be exactly the same due to variance in power supplies and component tolerances. However, if you
see anything more than +/-0.5V from the listed voltages, it’s a good indicator of an issue, and the exact
voltages can help narrow it down.
1 8
Note that IC pins are labeled counter-clockwise from the upper-left, as shown in the 2 7
IC1 IC2
PIN VOLTAGE PIN VOLTAGE
1 4.52 1 0
2 4.58 2 4.99
4 0 4 0
5 4.52 5 0
6 4.54 6 5.01
7 4.50 7 9.18
8 9.18 8 0
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 25
SUPPORT
Aion FX does not offer direct support for these projects beyond the provided documentation.
Replacements and refunds cannot be offered unless it can be shown that the circuit or documentation
are in error or that the included components are non-functional.
While we cannot offer direct, private support, you may send a link to your public troubleshooting thread
to Aion FX using the contact form on the website. There is no guarantee that we will be able to join the
discussion and help solve your problem, but this improves the chances.
It benefits the whole community if the troubleshooting process is public because then people who have
the same issue in the future may come across it when searching. And if you do get help, remember to
pay it forward! The best way to learn new skills is to help others. Even if you’ve only built one pedal, you
have more experience than someone who is brand new, so you have something to offer.
RESALE TERMS
These kits may be used for commercial endeavors in any quantity unless otherwise noted. It’s okay to
sell individual builds locally or online, or even to offer a service to build pedals based on these kits.
No direct attribution is necessary, though a link back is always greatly appreciated. The only usage
restriction is that you cannot “goop” the PCB or otherwise obscure the source. In other words: you don’t
have to go out of your way to advertise the fact that you use Aion FX kits, but please don’t go out of your
way to hide it. The guitar effects industry needs more transparency, not less!
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 26
LEGAL INFORMATION
EHX®, Electro-Harmonix® and Big Muff® are registered trademarks of New Sensor Corp.
Any use of trademarks is for comparative advertising purposes only under fair use. It is not an
endorsement of this product by the trademark holders.
These kits are intended to be built by the customer. Aion FX is not responsible for language that may be
used by the customer in the marketing or resale of the finished product.
All content and graphics in this document are original works and are copyrighted by Aion FX and may
not be used without permission.
DOCUMENT REVISIONS
1.0.1 (2024-08-08)
Added link to troubleshooting guide on page 25.\
1.0.0 (2022-11-11)
Initial release.
CORVUS DISTORTION/SUSTAINER 27