PATTERN

JAPANESE TRADITIONAL NATURE INSPIRED PATTERNS

GEOMATRICAL ABSTRACT PATTERNS

TEXTILE FIBRE MATERIALS

ANIMALS, PLANTS & MINERALS are the traditional sources of materials.

Petroleum-derived synthetic fibers were introduced in the mid 20th C. Silk, wowool are
extremely popular animal textiles.

Plant textiles can be made from COTTON, but also from straw, grass and bamboo. Mineral
textiles include glass and metal fibers.

The introduction of synthetic textiles (polyester, spandex, nylon and acrylic). Has greatly
expanded the array of options available, both terms of garment versatility and usability.

SYNTHETIC TEXTILE FIBRES USE read

RAYON: Developed cellulose fibre, first called artificial silk. All types of clothes, specially
blouses.

POLYESTER: All types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton. Very
strong, lowelasticity. First commertial polyester fibre produced by Du Pont in 1953.

ARAMID FIBRE: Flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armour.

ACRYLIC: Used to imitate wools, including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of
them.

NYLON: Exceptionally strong and elastic; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker
nylonfibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing. First nylon produced by Du Pont, in 1938.
SPANDEX(LYCRA): A polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding
movement, usedto make activewear, bras, and swimsuits. Can be stretched 500% without
breaking.Invented in 1958 by Du Pont’s Joseph Shivers.

OLEFIN FIBRE: Activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing
them to dryquickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name Tyvek.

INGEO: A polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is
morehydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.

LUREX: Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.

MILK/CASEIN FIBRES: Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during World War I in
Germany, and furtherdeveloped in Italy and America during the 1930s. Milk fibre fabric is not
very durable andwrinkles easily, but has a pH similar to human skin and possesses
anti-bacterial properties. Itis marketed as a biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibre.

CARBON FIBRE: Mostly used in composite materials, together with resin, such as carbon
fibre reinforcedplastic. The fibres are made from polymer fibres through carbonization.

SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIVE FABRICS & LEATHERS

FIBRE: A natural or synthetic filament that can be spun into yarn.

YARN: The fibres that have been spun together and used to make fabric. The amount twist
in the yarn produces different characteristics:
loose twist: bulky, soft, fuzzy fabrics
tight twist: smooth, shiny fabric.

FABRIC: any material made through felting, knitting or weaving.

Fabric making:
The yarns are to be woven or knitted to make fabrics.

Lacing Uses a backing piece for finer fabrics with open holes. Interlacing yarn in
woven cloth to create a pile layer, common in carpet and velvet production.

Felting is the oldest technique, which involves squeezing a mat of fibers together in a liquid
to create a tangled, flat material.

WOVEN FABRICS ~ Produced through weaving 2 sets of yarn

PLAIN-WEAVE FABRIC = A style of weave in which the weft alternates over and under de
warp.
TWILL-WEAVE FABRIC = The weft cross over the warp yarns in a diagonal pattern, this
diagonal pattern is also called wale.

SATIN-WEAVE FABRIC = In this weaving style the majority of warp yarns float over multiple
weft yarns, creating a smooth and shiny surface on one side of the fabric. (very luxurious
appearance)

BASKET-WEAVE FABRIC = Characterized by a simple crisscross pattern made by

interlacing 2 or more yarns in an alternating over-and-under arrangement. (resembling the
structure of a woven basket)

KNITTED FABRICS

WEFT-KNITTED FABRICS: made by looping together long lengths of yarn. The yarn
runs in rows across the fabric. {stretchy and comfortable}

WARP-KNITTED FABRICS: the loops interlock vertically along the length of the
fabric {slightly stretchy}

NON-WOVEN FABRICS
BONDING: is the technique of adhering 2 fabrics together {which can create fabrics with
reversible}. The bonding process:
- an adhesive glue application between the 2 fabrics aga
- placing a double-sided fusible web between 2 fabrics pdfw

FELTING: is the oldest technique, which involves squeezing a mat of fibers together in a
liquid to create a tangled, flat material.

EXAM

Identify how many complete rapports can be found in the following textile pattern images:
Give the name and date in time of the following garments / homeware / accesories;
explaining their importance in relationship to the textile fibres and fabrics history:
2'5

DZUDZUANA CAVE WORLD’S OLDEST TEXTILE

Made by weaving in the 36.000 BC probably made of animal skin

CIRCA
Made in 5.000 BC first weaving with impressions of plain-weave and basket-weave on clay.
COTTON CHINESE TROUSERS
Made in 1122 - 926 BC, cotton cultivated in the indus valley civilization.

CHERCHEN MAN
1.000 BC, found in Cherchen China, wearing a twill tunic and wool tartan legging.

⁉️
PAZYRYK CARPET
500 BC, this art was developed in central Asia, for the nomads in winter.

⁉️
LADY DAI'S PAINTED SILK BANNER
1080 BC, T-shaped painted silk funerary banner
PARACAS TEXTILES 500 BC - 300 AD
Poncho found in Paracas, Perú, Made of cotton and the wool of camelids. Paracas people
used natural dyes to produce more than 200 shades.

HIGH MIDDLE AGE BUTTONS

CENTURIES PAISLEY 18 & 19 C

Ornamental textile design using boteh or buta that become very famous in 18 & 19 c.

LONDON INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION ANILINE DYE 1862

In 1856, Perkin, a chemist discovered the Mauvine, a purple ANILINE dye, the first synthetic
dye.
Textiles their use, properties and type: 2'5

Merino:
Type: Wool from Merino sheep.
Properties: Soft, fine, excellent insulation.
Uses: Sweaters, base layers, socks.

Angora Rabbit:
Type: Hair from Angora rabbits.
Properties: Soft, silky, lightweight.
Uses: Sweaters, scarves, accessories.

Camel Down:
Type: Soft undercoat fibers from camels.
Properties: Warm, lightweight, luxurious.
Uses: Coats, scarves, high-end garments.

Cashmere:
Type: Fine fibers from cashmere goats.
Properties: Soft, lightweight, excellent insulation.
Uses: Sweaters, shawls, winter accessories.

Mohair:
Type: Hair from Angora goats.
Properties: silky, durable.
Uses: Suits, coats, scarves.

Shatoosh:
Type: Fine wool from Tibetan antelope.
Properties: Exquisite, extremely soft.
Uses: Scarves, shawls (Note: Production is controversial due to conservation concerns).

Aramid Fabric:
Type: Synthetic fiber (e.g., Kevlar).
Properties: High strength, heat-resistant.
Uses: Bulletproof vests, protective gear, aerospace applications.

Nylon:
Type: Synthetic.
Properties: Strong, durable, lightweight.
Uses: Stockings, activewear, bags.

Spandex:
Type: Synthetic elastane fiber.
Properties: Stretchy, form-fitting.
Uses: Activewear, swimwear, undergarments.
Lurex:
Type: Metallic yarn.
Properties: Sparkly, adds shine.
Uses: Evening wear, accessories, decorative trims.

A rapport drawn by hand, measures 20 x 10 cm (height x width). In the final pattern,

the rapport's height should be 4 cm. Which is the percentage to which the original
drawing should be reduced when scanning to fit its size to the desired rapport final
height? 0'5

So, the original drawing should be reduced by 80% when scanning to achieve the desired
final height of 4 cm in the pattern

A rapport jpeg file has 3000 x 2000 pixels (width x height) a size of 25 x 17 cm (width x
height), and 300 ppi resolution. The printer requires a resolution of 600 dpi. Which
would be the maximum size of the jpeg with that resolution? 0'5

The maximum print size of the JPEG file, with a resolution of 600 dpi as required by the
printer, would be 12'7cm × 8'5cm

The same rapport jpeg file of the former question is being printed in a poster, being
the minimum resolution required 150 dpi. What would be the size of the printed image
in that case? 0'5

The size of the printed image, with a resolution of 150 dpi, would be 20cm × 13'33cm

ISSEY MIYAKE (español) read

La forma en que Miyake crea cosas es una búsqueda continua a través de investigación y experimentación en
busca de nuevas innovaciones que puedan aprovecharse, liberadas de convenciones existentes. El objetivo
siempre es encontrar nuevos proyectos y personas a través de los cuales canalizar el poder del diseño para
abordar las necesidades de los estilos de vida contemporáneos de las personas.

MICROCOSMOS, colección primavera-verano 2017 de Issey Miyake presentando una nueva técnica, cortar y
pegar, que consiste en cortar materiales libremente en cualquier forma y pegarlos utilizando calor.
Una tela rígida se corta en formas geométricas que se adhieren a telas más ligeras y fluidas, dando como
resultado un CONTRASTE ÷ PANELES DUROS Y LÍNEAS SUAVES.
La colección también presentó prendas fabricadas con el estiramiento al vapor en 3D, una técnica que permite
tejer plieges en la tela mediante un hilo reactivo al calor que se encoge cuando se aplica vapor a la prenda.
MICROCOSMOS, Issey Miyake SS 2017 collection
Introducing a new technique, cut & stick, consisting in cutting materials freely in any
shape and sticking them together using heat.

El estampado tribal fue producido utilizando la técnica llamada "baked stretch" (estiramiento horneado), que
consiste en:
1. crear pliegues mediante la aplicación de un pegamento especial en la tela
2. hornear la prenda con calor
3. luego, se añade un motivo a los pliegues

The tribal print was produced using the technique called baked stretch

Miyake collaborated with Sony on the 2015 collection (Record), and accessories
developed for Shinjuku ISETAN were indeed inspired by staff photos taken in each city
where it has a headquarters (London, New York, Paris, and Tokyo).
The images were then manipulated via the OMOIIRO SYSTEM, which extracts colors from
an image, developed by researcher Alexis André at Sony Computer Science laboratories.

IDENTIFICATION