Garment and Accessories

Testing
Prof.Dr.S.Kathirvelu

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 1 DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS AND TOLERANCES

The dimensional specifications and tolerances are defined in the quality and

test specifications. The specified tolerances are binding.

In addition the following minimum widths must be complied with:

• The minimum width of the fully-opened access of skirts and trousers

(waistband width and zipper opening) must be at least 2cm larger than

the hip size required for the size.

• Necklines must have a minimum width when stretched:

- Women’s and men’s clothing 60 cm

- Children’s clothing 54 cm

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 2. Material Composition

• The material composition, given in the quality and

test specifications, must be tested in accordance with
the TKG (= Textile Labeling German Law) and must not
differ by more than 3% points. The material
information must correspond to the product as well
as the sew-in label and the packaging.

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 Irrespective of the colour fastnesses required, it must be guaranteed that no
discolorations occur if the garment is treated in accordance with the care
instructions or during use.

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 4 Quality Requirements after Washing and Dry cleaning

The following quality requirements must be fulfilled after at least five washes and if

applicable five times drying in a tumble dryer and one dry cleaning:

• There must be no visible signs of wear beyond the normal extent.

• Discolorations, noticeable changes in shade or decrease in print intensity and /or

colour abrasion must not occur.

• Irreparable deformations and damage must not occur.

• The hand-feel of the textile must be comparable with the product when new.

• The pilling and fluffing must not have a negative effect on the overall look. No

felting may occur.

• The elasticity of the basic materials and all other accessories must not be impaired.

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• Interlinings, Coatings, Laminates, Bonding, Latexing and

Tape Strips must not be blistered, loosen or detached.

• The latexing (slip resistance) must exist as before.

• The elasticity of the elastic tapes must not be impaired.

• The function of the zippers and other fastenings must not

be impaired.

• The bulkiness of the filling/wadding must not be impaired.

• The filling/wadding must not displace or lump together.

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5 Determination of the Dimensional Change of a Finished Product

In order to determine the percentage dimensional change of a

finished product, the width and length (the longest measured

length in each case) are measured before and after domestic

washing (incl. drying and ironing according to the care

instructions).

Example

½ chest girth before washing = 50 cm

½ chest girth after washing/drying/ironing = 48 cm

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6 ACCESSORIES

• All accessories, e.g. buttons, zippers, must be matched with the care

instructions given in the quality and test specifications, as well as

the materials.

• All accessories must be colour fast and rustproof. The paint must not

come off painted accessories.

• No sharp edges or splintering, which could lead to injuries, are

permitted.

• All accessories are subject to the respective contaminant

specifications, as given in the quality and test specifications.

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 7 Fastenings

• The fastenings must be smooth and easy

moving, firm and close completely.
• All fastenings and rivets must withstand 2000
actuations.
• All fastenings and rivets must be securely
attached and must not come off by themselves.

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 8 Buttons and other Fastening Elements

• Buttons must be resistant to washing and dry

cleaning

• Bed linen buttons must be resistant to mangle.

• Buttons must be colour fast.

• Buttons must not have sharp edges.

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 9 Fixing of Buttons:

• A spare button must be provided for each button size. The spare buttons

must be fixed to the sew-in label or be enclosed in a poly-bag (see details

in the quality and test specifications).

• Buttons must be fixed safely, durably and without thread ends.

• In the case of fastening buttons, the stem must always be wound round

with the thread. The stem height must be adapted to the thickness of the

material to make it easy to button up or open.

• Depending on the product, buttons must be secured with a counter button

(see quality and test specifications).

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 10 Hooks and Eyes

Hooks and eyes on underwear:

• Hooks and eyes on items of underwear must be painted, unless required

otherwise in the quality and test specifications.

• The paint must not come off.

Bras and body fastenings:

• For bra and body the bearer materials must be roughened and soft on

the inside (skin contact).

• The edges of the bearer material must not be sharp edged or scratch.

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11 Riveting
The rivets must be fastened so that they do not become loose or

detach when a tensile force of 90N is applied (testing in

accordance with DIN EN 71).

The rivet connection must not display any crushing/folding.

12 Zippers
The zippers must be tested in accordance with DIN 3416 to 3419

(the tests are listed in the following).

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1- Transverse Strength of the Zipper

The transverse strength of the zipper is the

tensile force related to a certain length, at
which the chain or support tape tears.

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2- Pull-off Strength of a Zipper Tooth

Tensile force required to pull a zipper tooth from

the support tape (only applies to metal and
injected plastic zippers).

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3 Transverse Strength of the Lower Limiting Part
Tensile force required to pull the end connection
apart.

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4 Strength of the Upper Limiting Part

Tensile force, required to pull the zipper-pull

beyond the upper fastening limiter (at the
start) or to pull it off the zipper teeth.

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5- Transverse Strength of the Divisible Element
Tensile force required to pull apart the divisible
element.

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6 Longitudinal strength of the cam part of the
divisible element

Tensile force required to pull the cam part

from the support tape.

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7- Pull-off Strength of the
Zipper-pull

The pull-off strength of the

zipper-pull or sliding cap or
sliding part is the tensile
force, under which the part
tears or ceases to function.

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8- Continuous running performance
Opening and closing the zipper teeth using a
sliding part, in which the slider is moved
backwards and forwards on the zipper teeth
under a transverse stress and a certain
opening angle.

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13 Attaching the Zipper:
• Zippers must be smoothly sewn in. In clothing they must be
backed with a panel and have an appropriate under vent.

• The zippers must be sewn in with an adequate distance from

the material, so that the material cannot get stuck in the zipper.

• The zipper start and end pieces must be durably sewn on.
Especially where divisible zippers are used, the loading points
at the start and end must be secured, and if necessary fixed
with a bar stitch.

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14 Thread
• The threads for sewing and embroidering must be matched to the outer

material, lining and all other materials used, with respect to the following

points:

- Tear strength - Elasticity

- Shrink-proof - Heat resistance

- Colour fastness

- Matching colour with the material (Exception: where contrast colours are

required)

• Blind stitch seams must be sewn using a monofilament polyester yarn.

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15 Interlining
• Interlinings must be matched with the outer material, be sufficiently

large, and correctly and durably fastened and guarantee strength. For

stretch materials the elasticity of the outer material must continue to be

guaranteed.

• Interlinings must comply with all items of the product’s care instructions.

• The colours of the interlinings must be matched to the outer material, in

order to prevent colour differences or the interlining becoming visible.

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Layered interlinings, loose reinforcement (e.g.

shirt collars) must be properly fastened, must

not move and must not push through.

• No breaks, creases or blistering may form in

the interlining during and after fabrication.

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16 Lining
• The slip resistance must be adequately high and be appropriately
adapted to the intended use.

Fixing of lining:

• Trousers: Where a crotch lining is inserted the lining must be

sufficiently large,

smooth and securely fastened.

• Jackets: The lining must be made up and sewn in with sufficient

additional width so that the comfort and function of the jacket are not
impaired. Equally, the lining must not be visible below the hems from
the outside.
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17 Elastic Band
• The elastic band used must be permanently elastic.

• In children’s pyjamas the elastic band must be

loosely drawn in and a button hole worked into the
waistband for fastening.

Shoulder band
A seam tape must be sewn into the shoulder seams of
knitted garments.
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18 Shoulder Pads
• Non covered sewn in pads (e.g. unlined jackets)
must be covered with a matching colour.

• Shoulder pads must be fixed on at the shoulder

seam and at the front and rear of the armhole so
that a durable and correct sit is guaranteed.
Exceptions are allowed due to a specific design.

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 19 Hanger Loops
• The hanger loops must be fixed according to
the quality and test specifications.
• Hanger loops must be securely fixed so that
the garment is held when hung up and the
hanger loops do not tear out.

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20 General Workmanship
• The technical notation/direction of wales and the direction of fabric must

be complied with for cutting according to the quality and test

specifications.

• All parts of a product must come from the same roll of fabric.

• No colour/embossing/shining/hand-feel difference in products of the

same colour

which belong together within a sales unit, nor in the whole delivery.

• Symmetrical pockets and collars

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• No shiny areas caused by ironing

• The product must be clean, free of fuzzes, with

no hanging threads and ironed.

• The packaging must be designed so that no

irreparable, permanent imprints and

deformations result in the product.

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21 Seams
Seam allowances:
• All parts of pattern must have adequate seam
allowances.
• All visible edges must be trimmed and over-
edged.
• Open edges must be uniformly cut back.
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22 Seam Finishing:
• The needles must be selected according to the material and be regularly
changed.

• The minimum stitch density for fabrics is 4 stitches/cm, for knitwear 5

stitches/cm.

• The thread tension must be adjusted to the material.

• The seam strength must be adjusted to the material.

• The elasticity of the seams must be guaranteed in elastic materials (no

tearing of the seams).

• The end of seams must be secured.

• Quilting seams must be parallel to the edges.

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The following stitching errors must not occur:

• Open seams, jumped stitches, needle holes,

marks of the presser foot

• Multiple stitching or visible restarting of a

seam

• Skew or wavy seams, twisted seams

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• 23 Buttonholes
• • Buttonholes must be stitched around with a adequate stitch

density, the ends well secured and finished without any loose

thread ends.

• • The size and position of the buttons and buttonholes must match

each other. The distance between the buttons/buttonholes must be

uniform (exception: where specified otherwise).

• Where piped button holes are required the piping must be

uniformly long and wide and the ends well secured.

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24 Pocket Finishing
• Pockets, including inside pockets, must be securely and durably stitched

at the corner points and if necessary must have additional bar tacking.

• The pockets must be flat and properly finished.

• Where necessary, pocket openings are to be reinforced with interlining,

in order to prevent them from stretching and distending and to

guarantee strength.

• The pockets must be sewn on symmetrically and their position must

correspond to the specification.

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25 Darts
• Darts must be smooth and sewn properly at the tips.

• Dart ends must be adequately secured.

• The marking of the dart tip must not be visible and must
not damage the material.

26 Belt loops
• Belt loops must be securely and durably attached.

• The positioning must correspond to the specification.

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27 Print Quality
The following quality requirements must be fulfilled:

• Well-printed and uniform printed impression

• Sharp print contours, no blurring or fizzling of the print

• Pigment printing without any cracks

• Correct position according to specification

• Neutral material odour

• The outlines of printing must be exactly placed to each other

without any space
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28 Safety
The product must be free of injury risks. Burrs
and sharp edges are not permitted on or in
the metal and plastic parts used.

When used in accordance with the foreseeable

intended use, the product must not cause any
harm or risk to health.

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 Garment Accessories: 

The materials or components except the main

fabric used in the garments are called garments
accessories. Besides the main fabric, various
additional things are used for making the
garments.
• Accessories include Sewing Thread, Button,
Zipper, Velcro, Label, Shoulder pad, Lining,
Interlining, Elastic Waistband, Snap Fastner ,
etc.
• Some accessories are used for functional
purposes and some are for decorative
purposes.
 Zippers

Zippers are means of closure in a garment. They provide

the ease of putting a garment on and off with little effort.

• They also offer flexibility to allow garment opening to

avoid excessive heat inside.

• Zippers also provide closure with zero visibility, which is

essential for some garments like the front zippers in
trousers and jeans.
• In addition, these can be used on pockets and
even for aesthetic purposes (non-functional) in
garments.
• Apart from garments they are widely used in tents,
handbags, and luggage bags.
• Depending upon the area and item they are used
on, zippers may be required to fulfill certain
aesthetic and functional necessities.
 Zipper Testing
The strength of a zipper is measured for various purposes, generally in

terms of the:

• Strength of chains and elements

• The holding strength of the stops

• The holding strength of separable units

• Resistance to compression

• Resistance to twist

• Resistance to the pulling-off of the slider pull, and so on.

Zipper strength of chains and elements

• Cross-Wise Strength
• Element Pull-Off Strength
• Element Slippage Strength
 Cross-Wise Strength
• This is the ability of the
zipper to withstand
lateral stress.
• It is measured with a
tensile testing machine
equipped with clamps
having special jaws.
• A 1 in. sample of zipper chain is fixed between
the jaws and loaded until it is destroyed.
• This test is important to measure the zipper’s
resistance against failures like tape rupture,
unmeshing, or element separation when the
zipper is exposed to side stresses during usage.
 Element Pull-Off Strength
• This is the
gripping strength
of an element
around the bead.
• It is measured by pulling off a single element
from the bead at right angles to the stringer by
using a specially designed fixture to the tensile
testing machine .
• It is used to measure the resistance of the
element to being pulled or fractured by side
stress during usage of the zipper.
 Element Slippage Strength

• This is the resistance of the

element to longitudinal
movement along the bead of
the tape .
• It is determined with a tensile
tester equipped with a special
attachment.
 Zipper holding strength of the stops

• Top Stop Holding

• Bottom Stop Holding, Slider

• Bottom Stop Holding, Cross-Wise

 Top Stop Holding
• This test may be used to
determine the top stop
attachment strength, which
measures the ability of the
top stop to prevent travel
of the slider beyond the
end of the chain.
• A tensile tester may be used to determine the
top stop strength with a special attachment on
the upper jaw that holds the slider puller.
• The lower jaw is set 3 in. apart and force is
applied until failure occurs. The maximum force
and failure type is noted.
 Bottom Stop Holding, Slider
• This test determines the bottom stopper strength,
which measures the ability of the bottom stop
attachment to resist stress caused by longitudinal
force to it by the slider.
• To check bottom stop holding strength the slider is
brought to the lowest position at the bottom stop
holder.
• The puller is attached to a specially designed fixture at the
upper jaw of the tensile tester.

• The two stringers are then placed in the lower jaw with
equal lengths between the jaws (3 in. apart).

• The angle includes the stringers and should be such that

no elements meet either at the flanges or the diamond.

• An increasing load is applied until failure occurs. The

amount of force and nature of the failure is recorded.
 Bottom Stop Holding, Cross-Wise
• This test determines the
bottom stop attachment
strength, which measures the
ability of the bottom stop to
resist side stresses.
• The slider is removed from
the zipper and elements
adjacent to the bottom stop
are removed to a half inch.
• The side tapes of the zipper are then placed in the
jaws of the tensile tester such that the bottom
stopper is at the center, vertical, and horizontal.
• An increasing load is applied until failure occurs. The
force and nature of the failure is recorded.
Bottom Stop Holding, Stringer Separation

• Position the bottom

of the slider against
the bottom stopper.
• The stringers are placed in opposite jaws of
the tensile tester such that the slider stays
exactly at the center with the jaws 3 in. apart.
• An increasing load is applied until failure
occurs and the nature of the failure and force
applied are recorded.
 Bridge Top Stop Holding, Stringer Separation

• The bridge top stop attachment strength measures

the ability of the bridge top stop to remain in place,
holding the stringers together and limiting slider
travel when the stop is stressed through stringers.
• The zipper is placed with its stringers open and
clamped in opposing jaws of the tensile tester.
• Position the stop along the axis of clamps and
midway between them.
• An increasing load is applied until failure
occurs. The holding strength of the separable
units is measured through the test methods
that simulate the various stresses faced by the
zipper over long term usage.
 Buttons, Snap Fasteners

• Buttons are the most common means of

closure for garments, especially for men.
• There are various types of buttons depending
on the materials used in their manufacturing,
such as metallic and plastic buttons.
• These may also be differentiated with respect
to their types, such as sew through buttons,
flange buttons, snap buttons, and shank
buttons.
• Each of these involves its own performance
requirements and hence different testing
techniques.
 Testing methods related to Buttons

• Impact resistance test

• Tension strength test

• Button Snap Pull Test

 Impact Resistance Test

• The impact resistance test is used on the sew-

through flange button.
• It determines the ability of a button to resist
breaking under impact.
• Vernier calipers are used to determine the button
diameter in mm, which is divided by a constant
0.635 mm to obtain the relevant ligne size.
• The specimen is then placed in the centering device
for the ligne size of the button so that it lies at the
center of the vertical tube.
• A mass is allowed to fall from a predetermined
height onto the button.
• The specimen is then analyzed with a 5× magnifying
glass for cracking, chipping, and breakage.
 Tension Strength Test

• The tension strength test is used to determine

the resistance of the bridge of a sew-through
flange button to strain that may cause it to fall
off the garment to which it is attached.
• A tensile tester with a working principle of
CRE is used for this test.
• The button is sewn to the fabric and positioned in the
clamp of the testing fixture.
• The clamped fixture is positioned on the testing
machine and two ends of the fabric are placed into
the open jaws of the lower clamp with proper
alignment.
• It is then pulled until failure occurs.

• The force used and the kind of damage is noted.

 Button Snap Pull Test
• To determine the holding or
breaking strength of prong-ring
attached snap fasteners onto
garments.
• Consists of an Upper Snap
Clamp, a Lower Fabric Clamp &
Force Gauge mounted on a
Stand.
• The snap component is gripped by the Upper Snap
Clamp and the garment is fixed to the lower Fabric
Clamp.
• By turning the Top Flywheel, the operator can apply a
specific force and the holding force or the breaking
strength can be recorded.
 Seams & Stitches

• A seam is a series of stitches that may be functional or

ornamental.

• Generally a seam is made to join two or more pieces of

fabric in garment construction.

• The aesthetics and performance of the garment are

strongly dependent on the seam’s appearance and
performance characteristics.
• The considerations related to seam
appearance include color fastness and the
area covered under the seam, as was
discussed earlier in the thread testing section.
• Performance characteristics are more related
to strength, elongation, and elasticity.
Properties of Seams & Stitches

• Level of strength
• Elasticity
• Durability
• Security
• Service life
• Appearance
 Types of Seams & Stitches

• The determination of the appropriate stitch

type, seam configuration, and thread type for
a particular assembly requires a thorough
understanding of many variables.
• A single type of stitch and seam may not offer
strength and flexibility at the same time.
• One may need to consider certain tradeoffs
while making a particular selection of stitches
and seams.
• Moreover, the place of stitching in a garment
also requires certain characteristics.
• A standard classification along with a method of
determination for each stitch and seam type can
be followed from standard ASTM-D6193
 Seam Efficiency
• Standard seam efficiency testing can be performed by using a tensile
testing machine.

• First of all, fabric without a seam is placed between the clamps of a

tensile testing machine and force is applied until failure occurs. The
amount of force required to break the fabric sample is noted.

• Then, a sewn sample of woven fabric is prepared as explained in

ASTM-D1683.

• The sewn sample size is 4 in. × 8 in. Seam allowance should be 1/2
in.
• To test seam strength, the fabric specimen
containing the seam is placed between the two
jaws of a tensile testing machine such that it is
directed toward the rear of the machine, using
vertical alignment guides.
• The seam should also be equidistant from the
upper and lower clamps of the testing machine.
• The force is applied until the thread breaks and
seam failure occurs. The amount of force
required to break the seam is noted.
• The seam efficiency is then calculated using
Equation
Seam efficiency(%) = Seam strength (N) X 100

Fabric breaking force ( N )

 Seam Inspection

• Seam slippage is a major fault, though one not caused by the

seam itself, yet it destroys the aesthetics and functioning.

• A miss stitch is a major seam fault owing to which the seam fails

to grip one or more plies of the fabric in the seaming process.

• A seam may also be inspected for its appearance. Sometimes

the lower thread appears on top and deteriorates the seam’s

appearance.
• Such a problem is usually caused by improper tension setting of the

machine and can be rectified with a little care. Ideally, the lower and

bottom threads should meet at the center point of the fabric plies.

• Seams are also inspected for too many protruding fibers on the

sewing thread, which indicates rough contact with the surfaces of

the guides or the needle eye. Friction can be overcome by

lubrication and appropriate thread selection.

• Finally, seams are also checked for the appropriate stitch and seam

types with respect to the location of usage or customer directions.

 Dimensional Stability of Fabrics

• Fabric shrinkage is one of the prime

considerations for the selection of fabrics in
apparel manufacturing.
• If the appropriate shrinkage is not
considered the garment may run short on
the wearer’s body after washing.
• For that purpose, the shrinkage along both
warp and weft is calculated and adjusted in
garment specifications in the cutting room.
• The stitched garment may appear enlarged in
some dimensions, but it adapts to the original
customer requirements after washing. Similarly,
it is important to measure fabric elongation.
 Dimensional Stability Calculation

•To calculate fabric shrinkage, a square of a particular size is cut

from the individual fabric roll.

• A further square is marked inside at a certain distance from the

edges.

•This is done because the fabric may experience fraying in

washing and run short on dimensions, which will not represent

the true shrinkage percentage.

• The marked sample is then washed and dried as
per standard conditions.
• The difference in measurements is used to
calculate shrinkage by
• Percentage dimensional change(%) =
• Change in dimension X 100

Original dimension

• The reference standard is AATCC TM 135.

 Colour Fastness of Garments

• The garment has to undergo wet processing that

may result in colour bleeding.
• Similarly, dry cleaning may also cause alteration of
shade and staining.
• Thread staining may be the result of treating the
garment under home care conditions like keeping it
in a wet state for a specified time.
 Colour Fastness of Garments to Washing
• To test colour fastness to laundering, the
garment, in contact with a multi-fiber test
cloth, is washed with home washing and
drying machines with or without bleach
under conditions intended to reproduce
the effect of home laundering on garment.
 Measuring the staining and color change

• The alteration in shade of the garments and

the degree of staining of the multifiber test
cloth are graded by reference to the AATCC
Gray Scale for Colour Change or to the AATCC
Chromatic Transference Scale, as appropriate.
The reference standard is ASTM-D204 .
 Thank you very much

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