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Coastal Lecture2

The document discusses coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, which studies water circulation and sediment transport near shorelines. These processes occur across spatial and temporal scales and are driven by wave and wind regimes, embayment geometry, coastal protections, shoreline shape and geology, and sediment size. The morphodynamic approach recognizes interactions between these processes across environmental systems. Coastal hydrodynamics and sediment transport are particularly driven by wave forcing properties and patterns. Sediment is transported alongshore and cross-shore via breaking waves and currents. Equations like the CERC formula are used to estimate potential and actual longshore sediment transport rates based on wave energy and angles.

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31 views13 pages

Coastal Lecture2

The document discusses coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, which studies water circulation and sediment transport near shorelines. These processes occur across spatial and temporal scales and are driven by wave and wind regimes, embayment geometry, coastal protections, shoreline shape and geology, and sediment size. The morphodynamic approach recognizes interactions between these processes across environmental systems. Coastal hydrodynamics and sediment transport are particularly driven by wave forcing properties and patterns. Sediment is transported alongshore and cross-shore via breaking waves and currents. Equations like the CERC formula are used to estimate potential and actual longshore sediment transport rates based on wave energy and angles.

Uploaded by

zan zibar
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Coastal Hydrodynamics and

Morphodynamics
Course on Coastal Engineering

Coastal hydrodynamics and


morphodynamics
• Coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics studies the circulation of
sea water in the proximity of the shoreline, as well as the associated
erosive process and sediment transport.
• The above processes evolve along different spatial and temporal scales,
according to complex dynamics that are driven by several forcings and
impacted by several environmental behaviors. The latter include the wave
and wind regimes, the geometry of the embayment, the presence of
coastal protections, the shape and geology of the coast, the sediment size
of the beach and many others.
• The morphodynamic approach to beaches and coastal systems
recognizes the range of interactions among the above processes
occurring across the full environmental system.

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 2


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

Coastal hydrodynamics and


morphodynamics

Basic nomenclature of a sea wave. By NOAA -


http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/kits/currents/media/supp_cur03a.html, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=50074693.
These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 3
can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

Wave forcing
• Coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics is driven by wave forcing.
• The dynamics of wind waves is characterized by the presence of
randomness, which determines their height, duration, and shape with
limited predictability. The physics of waves is governed by the following
main drivers:
1) Wind speed and duration. Wind is the sources of energy for wind waves
and therefore regulates the energy transfer from wind to waves.
2) The uninterrupted distance of open water over which the wind blows
without significant change in direction (called the fetch).
3) Width of area affected by fetch.
4) Sea depth.

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 4


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

Wave forcing
• In open sea and ocean, the movement of the waves is given by a shift of
forms rather than mass of water. If fact, waves are the expression of a
shift of energy rather than mass. Only after breaking a significant
movement of mass of water occurs back and forth in the swash zone.
• The size of a single transversal sea wave (namely, a wave that is
oscillating perpendicularly to the direction of propagation) and its
propagation is characterized by the following main behaviors:
1) Wave amplitude.
2) Wave length.
3) Wave period or frequency.
4) Wave direction.
• In open ocean, it is convenient to refer to plane waves, namely, waves
whose wavefronts (surfaces of constant phase) are infinite parallel planes.
These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 5
can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

Along shore sediment transport


• Breaking waves close to the shoreline combine with along shore currents
to originate the transport of beach sediments.
• Displacement of sediment may take place at the local level or may be
extended over long distances in the along-shore and cross-shore
directions.
• Along-shore sediment transport is responsible of long term variations.
Cross-shore erosion and deposition is responsible of rapid shocks during
extreme events.
• Sediment transport may occur in the form of bed-load and suspended
transport.

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 6


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

The CERC formula


• In engineering applications, the longshore sediment transport may be
expressed as the volume transport rate Ql. It may be expressed in cubic
meters per day or year. It may also be given in immersed weight transport
rate, which can be easily related to the volume transport rate once the
mass density of the sediment grains and water are known.
• Let us assume that the total longshore sediment transport rate is related
to the longshore component of the energy flux which is generated by
waves that approach the shore at an angle. We indicate with the symbol E b
the wave energy density per unit horizontal area at the breaker line.
• Let us recall that the wave energy is given by the sum of the kinetic and
potential energy density, integrated over the depth of the fluid layer.
Potential and kinetic energy oscillate during the wave phase by
compensating each other, so that the total energy is conserved (under
ideal conditions) and is equal to the mean wave energy.

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 7


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

The CERC formula


• The potential mean energy density for a periodic wave can be computed
through the relationship

• It can be proved that according to the linear wave theory the mean kinetic
energy density per unit horizontal area is equal to the above mean
potential density per unit horizontal area. Therefore the total energy
density of the wave at the breaker line per unit horizontal area is given by

• Note that total energy is constant along the wave period (see Figure) and
therefore we do not need to refer to any mean value.
These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 8
can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

Potential and kinetic energy

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 9


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

The CERC formula


• The same result can be achieved by considering that the kinetic energy of
the periodic single plane wave is null when the wave reaches the upper
and lower elevation. Therefore the total energy at the breaker line is equal
to the potential energy of the wave at the upper and lower elevation which
is given by the relationship

• As waves propagate, their energy is transported. The energy transport


velocity is the group velocity. As a result, the wave energy flux, through a
vertical plane of unit width perpendicular to the wave propagation
direction, is equal to

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 10


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

The CERC formula


• Cbg is the wave group velocity at the breaker line. The latter can be
estimated through the relationship

where k = Hb/db is the breaker index.

• Then, we define the potential longshore sediment transport rate P l as the


immersed weight of sediments per unit time that may be potentially
transported for given sea and shoreline conditions provided enough
material is available to be transported. It may be estimated through the
relationship

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 11


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

The CERC formula

• Here αb is the acute angle between the breaker line and the coast line. On
the one hand, multiplication by sinα leads to obtaining the longshore
component of the energy flow; on the other hand, multiplication by cosα
allows one to account for the reduced wave breaking that occurs when
waves approach the coast with a direction that is close to that of the
shoreline. In the limiting and unlikely situation that wave direction is
parallel to the shoreline wave breaking is negligible along with the
transportation of sediments. If one assumes that the longshore transport
is proportional to cosα then the most impacting situation occurs when
α=45°.

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 12


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it
Course on Coastal Engineering

The CERC formula


• With simple transformations of trigonometric functions Pl can be
computed as

• The immersed and "actual" weight transport rate can be obtained by


multiplying Pl by an empirical coefficient, namely,

where K is a dimensionless parameter with 0 ≤ K ≤ 1. The above


relationship can be converted to a volume transport rate:

where ρs, ρ and n are the mass density of sediment grains, mass density
of water and sediment porosity, respectively. For several computations a
value K = 0.7 is used.

These slides and extended version of this lecture (with videos) 13


can be downloaded at www.albertomontanari.it

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