Jacquard

• Jacquard shedding mechanisms are capable of

producing large and intricate weave designs that are
beyond the scope of dobby shedding mechanisms.
• In jacquard weaving, it is possible to control every warp
yarn individually.
• Many specialized types of jacquard machine have been
developed for weaving particular kinds of fabric, such
as terry towels, damasks, and carpets.
• Most of the rest are general purpose types that are
comparatively easy to classify.
Types of Jacquard
• Mechanical jacquard
• Electronic jacquard
Mechanical jacquard systems can be classified
under three categories:
• Single lift and single cylinder (SLSC)
• Double lift and single cylinder (DLSC)
• Double lift and double cylinder (DLDC)
Capacity of jacquard
• Coarse pitch (English pitch)
200, 400, 600, 800 needles
• Fine pitch (French pitch)
– Vincenzi: 880, 1320 needles
– Verdol: 896, 1344, 2688 needles
Size of Jacquard
• Design capacity of the jacquard- the controllable no. of the ends
• Number of independent end lifts that can obtained
• Virtually unlimited for the no. of picks in the weave repeat
A 600-needle jacquard (12 x 50)
• 12 is known as short row, 50 is known as long row
• It has twelve horizontal rows of needles placed one above the
other with 50 needles in each row, plus a few extra needles.
• Instead of no. of needles, the no. of hooks can be given to define
the size of jacquard, say, 600-hook jacquard.
• Hook is the main lifting element of the jacquard shedding.
Three principal motion in the jacquard shedding.
Drive:
• The mechanism that links the engine to the weaving
machine Knives ( sets of knives)
Selection:
• Needles, springs, card cylinder, and endless paper
pattern
Lifting:
• Hooks, neck-cords, harness cords, mails, and weights
(spring or elastomer)
A Jacquard machine may be divided into three main parts:
Jacquard head /engine
• Knives, hooks, needles, springs, and card cylinder, endless
paper pattern
Harnesses
• Neck-cords, harness cords, mails, and weights (spring or
elastomer)
The mechanism that links the engine to the weaving machine
• The mechanism consists of levers that connect the main shaft to
the knives.
• It is the connection which controls the up and down movements
of the knives.
• The knives in turn move up and down hooks to form the shed
according to the weave design.
Single lift and single cylinder (SLSC) jacquard
• If the machine has the capacity to handle 300 ends
independently, then it requires 300 hooks (one per
end) which are vertically arranged and 300 needles
(one per hook) which are horizontally arranged.
• For example, the needles can be arranged six rows and
each row will have 50 needles.
• In the side view, only six needles (one per horizontal
row) are visible. Hooks, which are connected to
individual ends through nylon cord, are also arranged
in six rows and each row is having 50 hooks.
Features of SLSC jacquard:
• 500 end machine will have 500 needles and
500 hooks
• Cylinder should turn in every pick
• Knives must rise and fall in every pick
• Bottom closed shed is produced
Double-Lift Single-Cylinder (D.L.,S.C.)
• Here each needle controls two consecutive hooks (pair).
• The pair of hooks is connected to one neck-cord.
• One hook (odd numbered) controls the neck-cord in the
odd picks and the other hook (even numbered) controls
the neckcord in the even picks.
• There are two sets of knives. The first controls the odd
hooks and the second controls the even hooks.
• The two sets of knives are operated in the alternate order,
one set is rising while the other descending.
• DLSC the cylinder is turned quarter revolution every
pick.
• A 600-needle machine has 1200 hooks, and each
needle controls two hooks.
• Suppose that the hook D is about to descend and that
the hook C is about to rise.
• The neck cord it controls will be lowered to the center
position as hook D descends.
• When it reaches the center position, it will be taken
over by the hook C, which will return it to the raised
position.
• The result is that an end required to remain up for two
or more consecutive picks is lowered halfway between
the picks.
• The double-lift, double-cylinder machine represents a
further development.
• Two needles and two hooks, for every end in the design,
so a 600 machine has 1200 needles and 1200 hooks to
control 600 ends in the repeat.
• Two card cylinders operate on alternate picks; one
carrying the odd numbered and the other the even
numbered cards
• Griffe and cylinder speeds are halved.
• Its action is the same as that of the double-lift, single
cylinder machine, and it forms a semi open shed.
Advantages of DLSC J.’s over SL J.’s:
• DLSC operates in semi open shed principle.
• There is less unnecessary movement than with the SLSC
jacquard.
• The hooks move less since each set is working every two
picks.
• There is less tendency for the harness to swing.
• The cylinder must still reciprocate and turn every pick,
but the rate of reciprocation of the knives is halved.
• The result is that the machine is capable of somewhat
higher speeds than its single-lift counterpart.
• In case of DLSC the cylinder is turned quarter
revolution every pick, however in case of DLDC the
cylinder is turned quarter revolution every two picks.
• This is because one cylinder handles the odd picks (odd
pattern cards) and the other cylinder handles the even
picks (even pattern cards).
• As a result, DLDC can work at faster speeds than
compared to DLSC.
Jacquard Harness
• It is the system by which the ends are controlled
during jacquard shedding with the help of nylon cords,
heddles (heald eyes) and dead weights (lingoes).
• At some distance, usually about 1-2 meter, below the
bottoms of the hooks there is a horizontal comber
board.
• The comber board is a piece of hardwood, or more
usually sections of hardwood assembled in a frame.
• Each section of the comber board has drilled in it. The
number and order of holes are similar to those of the
hooks in jacquard head.
Systems of Harness Mounting
• The cards on strong threads that connect the hooks in a
Jacquard system to the warp threads are called the "harness".
• The harness is designed as the perfect interface between the
Jacquard machine and the warp yarns of the Jacquard fabric .
• It can consist of 2000 to 38000 cords over a weaving width of
1 to 4 meters
• There are two methods of harness mounting:
1. Norwich system
2. London or French system.
• The former method is most commonly adopted.
Tie-ups
• There are different tie-up systems used in a
Jacquard system for different purposes. They
are:
1. Straight-through ties
2. Centered ties
3. Border and Middle ties
4. Sectional Harness ties
5. Mixed ties
• A straight repeating tie, with
four repeats in the width
• A pointed tie: the second repeat
is a mirror image of the first,
giving the impression of
doubling size of repeat, but the
design must be symmetrical
about its center line
• A border tie: Some of the hooks
(say, one third of the total) can
be used to weave borders that
are mirror images of each other.
The rest of the hooks can then be
used in several straight repeats.
Straight-through Tie-ups
• This is a very common
tie-up method used for
all kinds of designs,
especially those that
contain several repeats
across the full width of
the cloth.
 London, Crossed, or
Quarter-Twist Tie
If the jacquard is turned
through a right angle,
the cards will then fall
at the sides of the loom,
where they will not
obstruct light, but the
harness will now be
twisted.
Centre Tie-ups
• This kind of tie-up is
used when the two
halves of a design are
alike. In such a case,
only half the number of
hooks as the number of
warp threads in a repeat
is required. Centre tie-
up is used extensively
for damask, upholstery,
carpet and silk weaving.
Mixed Tie-ups
• This tie-up is a combination of the straight-through,
border and centre tie-up methods.
• This system is employed for the purpose of enabling a
certain portion of the design to be introduced more or
less frequently than another portion.
• The first set of 160 hooks is harnessed in a border-tie
manner, the next 80 hooks are harnessed in a straight
tie-up manner and the remaining 160 hooks are
harnessed in a pointed tie manner.
Mixed tie
Border and Middle Tie-ups
• Figure shows the method of tying up the harness
for a bordered fabric, such as a sari, table cover,
handkerchief, etc. In this kind of fabric, the
design of the borders should face inwards as
shown.
Border tie
Casting-out
• In cam and dobby shedding, the number of ends/cm can
be varied at will.
• With jacquard shedding, the maximum number of
ends/cm is determined by the harness system.
• There is no possibility of weaving a fabric with more
ends/cm than the harness has.
• It is possible, however, to weave fabrics with fewer
ends/cm by casting-out.
• Selected hooks, needles, harness cords, mails remain
idle.
Pattern Card Preparation (Jacquard)
• In Jacquard weaving, designs are prepared and made
ready for reproduction in the Fabric.
• The processes involved in the preparation of designs
are
1. Sketching a design
2. Transferring it to point paper
3. Card cutting
Piano Card Cutting Machine
• The piano card-cutting machine is used for punching
pattern cards for jacquards.
• It consists of a steel table with a verti­cal wooden board
on which the design paper is pinned or otherwise fixed
for reading.
• Two straight scales can be made to slide over the
board.
• The scales can also be moved up or down by means of
a handle so that any part of the design on the paper can
be read accurately
Electronic jacquard:
• In recent times electronic jacquards have become very popular. It
controls the ends by synchronized operations of following
machine components.
– Electromagnet
– Retaining hook or ratchet
– Hooks
– Knives
– Double roller
• The knives are used to lift or lower the hooks.
• If the electromagnet is activated by the signal pattern,
then it can briefly retain the upper end of the retaining
hook once the latter is pressed on the electromagnet
due to the upward movement of the hook.
• If this happens then the hook is not retained by the
retaining hook when the former starts to descend with
the knife.
• On the other hand, if the electromagnet is not
activated, then the hook is retained or caught by the
retaining hook.
• position 1: Hook 2 has been lifted to the topmost
position by the knife 2. However, the electromagnet
has been activated and it holds the top end of the
retaining hook 2 momentarily and thus ensures that the
retaining hook 2 does not catch the hook 2 when the
latter is descending. At this instance the shed is at
lower position.
• Position 2: Knife 2 and hook 2 are descending
whereas knife 1 and hook 1 are moving up. So there is
no effective movement of the double pulley assembly
or shed. The shed is still at lower position.
• Position 3: The hook 1 has been raised to the highest
position by the knife 1 and thus the hook 1 has pressed
the top end of retaining hook 1 against the
electromagnet. At this moment the electromagnet has
not been activated which ensures that the kook 1 is
caught by the retaining hook 1.
• Position 4: Knife 1 has started to descend but the hook
1 cannot descend as it has now been caught by the
retaining hook 1. Knife 2 has again started its upward
movement along with hook 2. The shed has now
started to change its position (moving upward). This is
because the hook 1 is already in raised position
(caught by retaining hook 1) and hook 2 is also
moving up.
• Position 5: The hook 2 has pressed the top end
of retaining hook against the electromagnet
which is not activated as this instance. Thus
hook 2 is caught by the retaining hook 2. As
both the hooks are now in raised position, it
creates upper shed position.
• Position 6: Knife 2 has started to descend,
However, the hook 2 retains its raised position
as it is held by the retaining hook 2. Thus the
shed remains in upper position.