Argo Service Manual Wheels, Axles & Chains

SECTION WA
Wheels, Axles & Chains
Table of Contents
General Instructions............................................................................. WA-3
Main Frame Information..................................................................... WA-4
Drive Chain Maintenance.................................................................... WA-4
Drive Chain Removal............................................................................WA-5
Drive Chain Inspection......................................................................... WA-6
Drive Chain Installation....................................................................... WA-7
Drive Chain Lubrication...................................................................... WA-9
Drive Chain Cleaning........................................................................... WA-9
Chain Tensioner Inspection (Upper and Lower Block Style)........... WA-10
Replacing the Slider Block (Upper and Lower Block Style).............WA-10
Chain Tensioner Inspection (Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust).......... WA-11
Replacing the Slider Block (Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust)............ WA-12
Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System....................................... WA-12
(Upper and Lower Block Style)
Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System.......................................WA-14
(Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust)
Assembling the Chain Tensioner System............................................WA-15
(Upper and Lower Block Style).
Assembling the Chain Tensioner System............................................WA-17
(Lower Block Semi-Self Adjust)
Idler Chain Maintenance......................................................................WA-19
Idler Chain Removal.............................................................................WA-20
Idler Chain Cleaning............................................................................ WA-21
Idler Chain Inspection..........................................................................WA-22
Idler Chain Installation........................................................................WA-23
Idler Chain Adjustment........................................................................WA-24
Removing the Idler Shaft (Conquest 8 & 6, Response, Bigfoot)...... WA-26
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SECTION WA
Wheels, Axles & Chains
Table of Contents
Removing the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2)........................ WA-29
Idler Shaft Inspection........................................................................... WA-31
Installing the Idler Shaft (Conquest 8& 6, Response,Bigfoot........... WA-33
Installing the Idler Shaft
(Avenger & Frontier Models) Supplement Pages..............................WA-32A
Installing the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2)......................... WA-38
Aligning the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2)........................... WA-39
Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication.......................................................... WA-41
Removing an Axle (Without Bearing Extension)............................... WA-42
Removing the Axle Seals....................................................................... WA-43
Installing the Axle Seals........................................................................ WA-44
Installing an Axle (Without Bearing Extension)................................ WA-45
Keyed Front Axles (Earlier 6x6 Vanguards)...................................... WA-48
Outer Axle Flange & Bearing Lubrication......................................... WA-49
Inner Axle Bearing Lubrication.......................................................... WA-49
Removing an Axle (With Bearing Extension).....................................WA-50
Removing an Axle (With 810-91 Bearing Extension)
Supplement Pages..................................................................................WA50A
Installing an Axle (With Bearing Extension)...................................... WA-50
Installing an Axle (With 810-91 Bearing Extension)
Supplement Pages..................................................................................WA-52A
Removing the Bearing Extension.........................................................WA-52
Installing the Bearing Extension..........................................................WA-52
Removing the Inner Bearing................................................................ WA-53
Installing the Inner Bearing................................................................. WA-53

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SECTION WA
Wheels, Axles & Chains
Table of Contents
Removing a Tire.....................................................................................WA-55
Wheel Disassembly................................................................................ WA-55
Tire Pressure...........................................................................................WA-55
TireInspection........................................................................................WA-56
Temporary and General Tire Repair...................................................WA-56
Wheel Reassembly................................................................................. WA-57
Valve Replacement................................................................................ WA-57
Wheel Installation................................................................................. WA-58

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General Instructions

Detailed information on standard workshop and safety procedures, and general

servicing operations is not included in this manual, which has been prepared to assist
qualified service personnel. ODG assumes no responsibility or liability for
PERSONAL INJURY or VEHICLE DAMAGE which results from any servicing
procedure performed, including those instructions outlined in this manual.

Improperly adjusted idler chains or poorly aligned idler shaft assemblies can result
in personal injury to the operator, extensive damage to brake disc sprockets and
idler shaft assemblies, and may lead to a costly and inconvenient break down off
road. Please ensure that the axle shafts are correctly aligned and that the drive
chains and chain tensioner system are in good working condition.

Improperly aligned axle shafts or incorrect chain tension can result in extensive
damage to drive chains and axle sprockets, and may cause wear on the vehicle frame
and floorpans. Please ensure that axle shafts are correctly aligned and that the drive
chains and chain tensioner system are in good working order.

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Main Frame Information
Vanguard Frame Prior to S/N S8131 Frame does not have front tube design

Vanguard2 Frame from S/N SN7841 (1995) Front Tube Frame Design (not
Introduced Vanguard2 /Hydraulic Brakes threaded for bearing extensions)

Vanguard Frame from S/N S8131 (1995) Front Tube added to frame design but
Updated to Vanguard2 parts & frame but with not threaded for bearing extensions
mechanical brakes until S/N S8153

Vanguard2 Frame from S/N SN8138 (1995) Front Tube Threaded for Extensions
Vanguard & Vanguard2 from S/N SN10191 & Extended Wheel Base and New
S10178 (1998) Self Adjust Chain Tensioners
Conquest Frame from S/N CB16049 (1999) New Frame with revised axle spacing
and new Self Adjust Chain Tensioners
Response Frame from S/N RB16104 (1999) New frame with revised axle spacing
and new Self Adjust Chain Tensioners

Drive Chain Maintenance

Regular maintenance of the drive chains is essential to both good vehicle

performance and personal safety. Poorly maintained chains can result in rusted,
corroded or seized up chains, damaged sprockets, damaged frame, and costly repair
bills.

1. Every 25 hours of vehicle operation perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain
Inspection in this section of the service guide.

2. Every 10 hours of vehicle operation perform the servicing procedure, Chain

Tensioner Inspection.
3. Every 10 hours of vehicle operation perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain
Lubrication.
4. Every 100 hours of vehicle operation perform the following servicing procedures:
„ Drive Chain Removal
„ Drive Chain Cleaning
„ Drive Chain Inspection
„ Chain tensioner Inspection
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„ Drive Chain Installation

„ Drive Chain Lubrication
Drive Chain Removal

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall in section VB of this

guide.
2. Remove the front and rear floorpans.
‹ On 8x8 models manufactured prior
to serial numbers CB16049 &
RB16104, or 6x6 models prior to se-
rial numbers SN1019 & S10178:
i. Locate the chain you wish to remove
and release the spring holding the chain
tensioners together. Photo WA-1 WA-1
ii. Rotate the chain until the connect-
ing link can be accessed.

iii. Using a screwdriver, pry off the

connecting link clip. DIAGRAM
WA-2

IMPORTANT WA-2

Any damage to the connecting link clip during removal requires that it be replaced
with a new one. Failure to do so could result in the drive chain becoming
disconnected and a costly repair.

WA-3

iv. Remove the outside plate and tap

out the connecting link. There
are 2 inside plates located at the
center of the RC50 Double Chain.
DIAGRAM WA-3

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Drive Chain Removal

‹ On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers BF9212, SN10191 & S10178:
i. Turn the tensioner cam assembly in the direction which winds up the torsion spring
and push the assembly down as close as possible to the cam follower block in the
bottom of the frame. Secure it in this position with a Vice-Grip 10CR as illustrated
in DIAGRAM WA-5.

ii. Roll the vehicle until the connecting link on one of the chains is visible.

iii. Remove the spring clip from the connect-

ing link as shown in WA-3 (previous
page) Remove the outside plate and tap
out the connecting link. The inside plates
will be released when the connecting link
is removed (Frt. & Mid Frt. RC50 Chains
Only). The rear chain drive is single
RC60 and has no inside plates. WA-5
Photo WA-6
iv. Remove the chain from the vehicle.
v. Repeat steps 4 to 6 until all drive chains
are removed if necessary.
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive
Chain Inspection below.

Drive Chain Inspection

WA-6

The drive chains will stretch and wear after

extensive vehicle use, and cause a reduction in vehicle performance and a hazard to
personal safety. Roller chain “stretch” results from wear to the chain pins and bushings
because of the loss of lubricant.
1. Remove the front and rear floorpans.
2. Inspect the drive chains and replace, or remove a link and install a half link if enough
chain stretch will allow it. Perform any of the above procedures if:
„ the chain tensioner system can no longer take up the slack
„ the chain is seized up, corroded or rusted
„ the chain is causing damage to the sprockets
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3. If the chain requires replacing, perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Re-
moval.
4. Perform the servicing procedure, Inspecting the Chain Tensioner System.
5. If drive chain inspection is complete, replace the floor pans.
Drive Chain Installation
‹ On 8x8 models manufactured prior to serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models prior to serial numbers SN10191 & S10178:

1. Position the drive chain over the lower

slider block and under the upper slider
block. Photo WA-7

2. Pull the ends of the chain together and

insert the connecting link as shown in
DIAGRAM WA-8 and 9. When con-
necting the RC50-double chain, insert
the inside plates before tapping the con-
necting link into position. WA-7

WA-8
WA-9

Use a pair of modified 7R Vice Grips to hold the ends of the chain together while inserting
the connecting link. Some drive chains have no slack, and replacement of the connecting
link is difficult without this tool. Modified Vice Grips can be ordered from Ontario Drive
& Gear (ARGO Part No. 658-08) or refer to Section GI under special tools for
modification information.
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3. Replace the outside plate and spring clip. The open end of the clip must face rear-
ward when it is on top of the chain. Photo WA-10

Earlier vehicles used an open ended spring clip. New models have a closed ended spring
clip. Face this rearward as well.

4. Remove the vice-grips and connect the chain tensioner spring between the upper and
lower chain tensioner arm. Photo WA-11

5. Reinstall firewall and floorpans.

WA-10 WA-11

Drive Chain Installation

‹ On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers BF9212, C12747, SN10191 & S10178:
1. Position the drive chain over the slider block and around the drive sprockets.

The chain tensioner system must be secured in it’s lowest position to the frame as
illustrated in DIAGRAM WA-5 on page WA-6.

2. Pull the ends of the chain together and insert the connecting link as shown in DIA-
GRAM WA-8 & 9. When connecting the RC50-2 chain, insert the inside plates
before tapping the connecting link through the second set of links. The rear single
RC60 chains have no inside plates.

3. Replace the outside plate and spring clip. The open end of the clip must face rear-
ward when it is on top of the chain. Newer style clips have a closed end.

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4. Remove the vice-grips, securing the cam assembly in its lowest position.
5. With the wheels raised up off the ground, reach under the slider block assembly and
pull it up into the highest position that the chain will allow. See DIAGRAM WA-15
on page WA-11
6. Replace the firewall and floor pans.

Drive Chain Lubrication

Maintenance Information - Lubricate every 10 hrs. of vehicle operation.
*Lubricate more frequently if the vehicle is being operated under wet or dusty conditions

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall, in section VB

of this service manual.
2. Remove both front and rear floor pans.
3. Lubricate the chains with Aerosol Chain Lube (ARGO part No. 125-86).

Idler Chain Lubrication

Lubricate the idler chains after 10 hrs. of operation, and more frequently if the vehicle is
operated in dirty or wet conditions. Use an aerosol type of motorcycle chain lube such as
the type available through Ontario Drive & Gear. Part No. 125-86

When applying the chain lube, protect the brake disc with a rag or simple cardboard
shield. Do not allow chain lube to come into contact with the brake discs or brake pads.
Roll the vehicle so that all the idler chain is accessible for lubrication.

Drive Chain Cleaning

After every 100 hrs. of operation, remove all the drive chains from the vehicle and clean
them thoroughly in a suitable solvent, e.g clean varsol bath.

Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. Gasoline is extremely flammable and can
explode if ignited, causing serious personal injury.

Allow the chains to dry thoroughly, re-lubricate generously with ARGO Chain
Lube and reinstall.

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Chain Tensioner Inspection (Earlier Style)

‹ On 8x8 models manufactured prior to serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models prior to serial numbers SN10191 & S10178:
This chain tensioning system consists of an
upper and lower chain tensioner arm which is
supported by a pivot pin secured between the
outer and inner frame channel. A tensioner
spring is connected between the upper and
lower assembly keeping a constant tension on
any slack there may be in the chain.
Photo WA-12
WA-12
Maintenance Interval - Inspect every 10
hours of vehicle operation.
1. Remove the front and rear floor
pans. WA-13
2. Press the upper and lower slider
blocks together and, using pliers,
remove the tensioner spring.

3 The friction of the chains will cause

wear to the nylon slider blocks in
the chain tensioning system. In-
spect the face of each slider block.

4. If the wear groove on the slider block, as shown in DIAGRAM WA-13, is 1/4"
(6mm) or greater, replace the nylon
slider block.
Replacing the Slider Block
1. If the nylon slider block needs replac-
ing, pry the old block off of the shaft
with a pair of pliers.
2. Place the new slider block over the shaft
of the tensioner arm, and using a nee-
dle nose vise grip, squeeze the new
block until it snaps on to the shaft of WA-14
the tensioner arm. Photo WA-14
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Chain Tensioner Inspection (Later Style)
‹ On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers C12747, BF9212, SN10191 & S10178:

This chain tensioning system consists of a torsion spring loaded cam assembly with a
slider block which takes up the slack on the bottom side of all but the front final drive
chains. As the chain wears, the chain tensioning mechanism adjusts semi-automatically.
Under most conditions, the tensioner cam assembly will move to the next step of
adjustment simply due to normal drive system dynamics. Sometimes, however, the cam
assembly can bind due to debris caught in the area.

IMPORTANT

It is very important to check that

the cam assembly is progressing
properly. Check for proper chain WA-15
tensioner operation after the intial
2 hours of vehicle break in and then
every 10 hours of vehicle operation,
when the drive chains are being
lubricated. Each step of the cam
takes up about 2.5 inches of chain
slack. DIAGRAM WA-15

The tensioner cannot progress to the next step until there is enough slack in the chain.
With the wheels raised off the ground, check if the chain slack exceeds 2.5 inches. If it
does, then reach under the slider block assembly and pull up.

Check for proper chain tensioner operation every 10 hours of vehicle operation.

Maintenance Interval - Inspect every 10 hours of vehicle operation.

1. The friction of the chains will cause wear to the nylon slider blocks in the chain
tensioning system. Inspect the face of each slider block.
2. If the wear groove on the slider block, is 1/4" (6mm) or greater, replace the nylon
slider block. DIAGRAM WA-13 on previous page.

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Replacing the Slider Block:

1. Remove the floor pans and the appropri-
ate drive chain.

2. Turn the tensioner cam assembly in the

direction which winds up the torsion
spring and push the assembly down as
close as possible to the cam follower
block across the bottom of the frame
channels. Clamp it in this position with
a Vice-Grip 10CR or similar plier as il-
lustrated in DIAGRAM WA-16 WA-16

3. With pliers, pry the slider block off the

cam assembly as illustrated in
DIAGRAM WA-16

4. Place a new slider block over the shaft

of the cam assembly.

5. Using a piece of wood (or similar mate-

rial) pressed against the top of the slider
block, carefully hammer the piece of
WA-17
wood so the slider block snaps onto the
cam assembly shaft as shown in
DIAGRAM WA-17

6. Reinstall the drive chain and remove the locking pliers securing the cam assembly in
its lowest position.

7. Pull up on the cam assembly to allow it to take up as much chain slack as possible.

8. Replace the floor pans.

Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System
‹ On 8x8 models manufactured prior to serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models prior to serial numbers SN10191 & S10178:
1. Remove the front or rear floorpan.

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2. Locate the required chain take up system and remove the tensioner spring. Photo
WA-18
3. Remove the cotter pin which secures the chain tensioner system to the vehicle
frame. Photo WA-19

WA-18 WA-19

4. Slide out the pivot pin which holds the chain tensioner assembly together. Photo
WA-20
5. Pull the upper and lower assembly from the vehicle and collect the remaining com-
ponents of the assembly. These include a spacer and spacer spring. Photo WA-21

WA-20 WA-21

6. If the nylon slider block needs replac-

ing, place the tensioner arm in a vise and
lift one corner of the slider block, pull-
ing it straight back off the chain
tensioner arm. DIAGRAM WA-22

WA-22

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7. Inspect the upper and lower tensioner arms for any cracks or bends and warping. A
twisted or bent tensioner arm can cause uneven wear on the block, or cause the
spring that tensions the 2 halves together to inadvertently pop off during vehicle
operation. Replace as required.
Disassembling the Chain Tensioner System
‹ On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers C12747, BF9212, SN10191 & S10178:

1. Remove the floor pans.

2. Turn the tensioner cam assembly in the direction which winds up the torsion spring
and push the assembly down as close as possible to the cam follower to loosen the
chain. Clamp it in this position with a Vice-Grip 10CR or similar plier as illustrated
in Photo WA-23, then remove the chain.

WA-23 WA-24 WA-00

4. With the chain removed, unfasten the clamp holding the chain tensioner system and
let it unwind to its top most position. Unfasten the spring at the cam's tab. Photo
WA-24

5. To pull the tensioner assembly free of

the frame guides, push the the long
shaft side of the cam assembly down
to the bottom of the guide. At the
same time raise the opposite side up
and out of the guide.
Photo WA-25 & 26
WA-25

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WA-26 WA-27

6. Slip the one torsion spring off the cam, and remove the second torsion spring from
the frame assembly by removing the cotter pin that secures it.
Photo WA-27
Assembling the Chain Tensioner System
‹ On 8x8 models manufactured prior to serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models prior to serial numbers SN10191 & S10178:
If the nylon slider block needs replacing:

1. Place the tensioner arm on to a solid surface, such as the top of a vise.
Photo WA-028
2. Position one end of the new slider block on to the tensioner arm.
3. Press firmly on to the tensioner arm. Use light strokes of a rubber mallet if neces-
sary. Photo WA-29

WA-28 WA-29

If the chain tensioner system is being installed on an outside chain:

4. Insert the end of the pivot pin with the cotter pin hole, through the inner
channel of the vehicle frame. Photo WA-30

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WA-30 WA-31
5. Place the bushing, spring, lower tensioner arm and upper tensioner arm on
to the pivot pin as you push the pivot pin through. Photo WA-31

6. Insert end of pivot pin into the frame

bushing and align the cotter pin holes.

7. Insert the cotter pin and bend over with

a pair of needle nose pliers.
Photo WA-32

8. Press the upper and lower tensioner arms

together. Make sure that the faces of WA-32
the nylons slider blocks are up against
the chain. Photo WA-33

9. Install the spring between upper and lower arms. Photo WA-34

WA-33 WA-034

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If the Chain tensioner is being installed on an inside chain: Photo WA-35

1. Insert the end of the pivot pin with the

cotter pin hole through the inner chan- WA-35
nel of the vehicle frame.
2. Place bushing, lower tensioner arm,
upper tensioner arm and spring on to
the pivot pin as you push the pivot pin
through.
3. Insert end of pivot pin into the frame
bushing and align the cotter pin holes.

4. Insert the cotter pin and bend it over with a pair of needle nose pliers.
5. Press the upper and lower tensioner arms together. Make sure that the faces of the
nylons slider blocks are up against the chain.
6. Install the spring between upper and lower arms.

Assembling the Chain Tensioner System

‹ On 8x8 models manufactured from serial numbers CB16049 & RB16104, or
6x6 models from serial numbers BF9212, SN10191 & S10178:
If the nylon slider block needs replacing:

1. Place the tensioner block onto a work-

bench and position the slider block over
the shaft of the assembly.

2. With a soft faced mallet tap the slider

block to snap it on to the shaft. Photo
WA-36
WA-36
3. Slip a torsion spring over the welded
bushing on the frame, and secure with
a cotter pin. Orient as in Photo WA-37

4. Slip the second torsion spring on to the shaft of the tensioner cam assembly.
Photo WA-38

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WA-37 WA-38

5. Insert the extended length of the torsion spring, assembled to the cam, into the hole
of the welded tab on the frame. Photo WA-39 At the same time, place the same
side of the cam's shaft into the tensioner systems guide.

WA-39 WA-40

6. Push the previously inserted side of the cam to the bottom of the guide and raise the
opposite side to insert over the extended
length of the second torsion spring on
the bushing side. Photo WA-40

7. Allow the assembly to sit in the up

most position. Photo WA-41
8. Assemble the short stem of the torsion
spring, on the cam's shaft, into the tab
on the cam. Photo WA-42
9. Turn the cam assembly in the direction WA-41
which winds up the torsion spring and
push the assembly down as close as possible to the cam follower block across the
bottom of the frame channels. Clamp it in this position until the chains are rein-
stalled. Photo WA-43,44 & 45
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WA-42 WA-43

WA-44 WA-45

Idler Chain Maintenance

Regular maintenance of the idler chains is essential to good vehicle performance and
personal safety. Poorly maintained idler chains can result in rusted, corroded or
seized up chains, damaged brake discs, worn or broken idler shaft assemblies, and
costly repair procedures.

1. Every 20 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Inspection.

2. Every 50 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Adjustment.

3. Every 10 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Lubrication.

4. Every 100 hours of vehicle operation, perform the servicing procedures:

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„ Idler Chain Removal
„ Idler Chain Cleaning
„ Idler Chain Inspection
„ Idler Shaft Inspection
„ Idler Shaft Installation
„ Idler Chain Adjustment
„ Idler Chain Lubrication
Idler Chain Removal
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall.
2. Loosen off the power pack frame
‹ On 6x6 vehicles manufactured prior to S8131, locate and loosen off the four 1/2"-
20x1.5" power pack frame mounting bolts. Refer to Section 4.0 Power Pack As-
sembly Illustration in the appropriate parts manual. There is one located on each
side of the power pack frame in front of the idler axles, and one visibly located on
each side of the power pack frame, behind the idler axles. These bolts are threaded
into nuts welded to the lower frame assembly.
‹ On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C
vehicles, Loosen the locknut in front
and behind the idler axles. These are
threaded to 2 mounting bolts inserted
through the power pack frame from
right to left and attached at the lower
frame. Photo WA-46
3. Next loosen off the idler chains.

‹ On 6x6 models produced from S7304 WA-46

and prior to S8131, undo the jam nuts
at the chain tensioner bolts and using an allen head wrench, turn the adjustment
bolts counter-clockwise to lower the back end of the power pack frame. This will
slacken the idler chains and allow for easy removal.
‹ 6x6 Models prior to S7304, require a 3/4" socket on the adjustment bolt
head to lower the power pack frame.

‹ On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles,
locate the two 3/8"-16x3" bolts threaded into the lower frame channel beneath the
rear power pack mounting bolt. Turn each of these clockwise to lower the rear of the
power pack frame assembly. Photo WA-47
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WA-47 WA-48

4. Place the vehicle in neutral gear and roll the vehicle until the connecting link on the
idler chain is half way between the brake disc sprocket and the idler assembly
sprocket. Photo WA-48
5. Using a small slot screwdriver, pry off the clip securing the connecting link to the
chain.

The left hand side idler chain may prove easier to remove if the driven clutch is removed
first. Perform the servicing procedure, Driven Clutch Removal, in section CS of this
service guide.
6. Remove the connecting link taking care to collect the end cap and 2 internal spacers
that are installed between the double 40 or 50 chain.

7. Slide the idler chain free of the brake disc and idler shaft assembly. It may be neces-
sary to roll the vehicle forward or backward to achieve this.

If the vehicle can be raised off the ground, the wheels can be easily rotated to remove and
reinstall any of the chains in the drive train system.

Idler Chain Cleaning

Maintenance Schedule-Clean every 100 hours of vehicle operation.
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Removal.

2. Clean the chain with a strong solvent such as varsol. This will remove all chain
lube, dirt, and accumulated grease.

Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. Gas is extremely flammable and can
explode if ignited, causing serious personal injury or death.

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3. Allow the idler chain to dry.

4. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Inspection

5. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Installation

6. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Lubrication

Idler Chain Inpsection

The idler chains will stretch and wear after extensive vehicle use. If not regularly
inspected, adjusted and maintained, loose or worn idler chains will cause a reduction
in vehicle performance, damage to idler and brake disc sprockets, and a hazard to
personal safety. Please inspect regularly.

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall.

2. Inspect the idler chains and adjust

if:
• the idler chains deflect more than
1/8". Photo WA-49

Perform the servicing procedure, Idler

Chain Adjustment.

3. Inspect the idler chains and replace

if:
• the idler chain deflects more than
1/8" and further adjustment is no
longer available.
WA-49
• the chain is seized up, corroded or
rusted.
• the brake disc sprockets are worn or damaged
• the idler shaft sprockets are worn or damaged

4. If the idler chains need replacing, perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain
Removal and the procedure, Idler Chain Installation.

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5. Perform the servicing procedure Installing the Firewall.

Idler Chain Installation
1. Rotate the power pack adjustment bolts. This will lower the brake disc sprocket
toward the idler sprocket assembly. See the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Re-
moval on Page WA-20 step 3.
2. Place the transmission in neutral.
3. Feed one end of idler chain under the idler assembly sprocket. It may be necessary
to roll the vehicle forward or backward to achieve this. If the vehicle can be raised
off the ground, the tires may be rotated either way by hand to accomplish the same
thing.
4. Place the free end of the idler chain around the brake disc sprocket.
5. Rotate the idler chain until the open links are halfway between the idler sprocket and
brake disc sprocket.
6. While holding the two open links together, insert the connecting link and assemble 2
connecting link plates to the center of the double 40 or 50 chain. Photo WA-50
7. Gently push the connecting link through the second set of open links and attach the
remaining end link plate.
9. Secure the assembly with the connecting link clip, with the split end of the clip
facing down. Photo WA-51

WA-50 WA-51

Ensure that the connecting link clip has been properly installed. Failure to install
this clip correctly could result in severe damage to vehicle drive train components
and costly repairs. Use a small technicians mirror to correctly view the clip after it
has been installed.

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10. Tension the idler chains
‹ 6x6 Models prior to S7304 will require a 3/4" socket on the adjustment bolt head to
raise the power pack frame.
‹ On 6x6 models produced from S7304 and prior to S8131, use an allen head
wrench to turn the adjustment bolts clockwise. This will raise the back end of the
power pack frame and begin to tension the idler chains.

IMPORTANT
When adjusting idler chain tension, be sure to always alternate between each
adjustment bolt, turning each a little at a time.

i. Adjust the chains until the amount of deflection in both idler chains is less than 1/8"
(3mm) See Photo WA-49 on page WA-22
ii. Secure the jam nuts of each tensioner bolt.
iii. Tighten all power pack mounting bolts.

iv. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall.

‹ On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles:

i. Locate the two 3/8"-16x3" bolts threaded into the lower frame channel beneath the
rear power pack mounting bolt. Turn each of these counter-clockwise to raise the
rear of the power pack frame assembly and tension the idler chains. See Photo
WA-47 on page WA-21
ii. Adjust the chains until the amount of deflection in both idler chains is less than 1/8"
(3mm) See Photo WA-49 on page WA-22
iii. Tighten all power pack mounting bolts.
iv. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall.
Idler Chain Adjustment

DO NOT over-tighten the idler chains. Chain deflection should be as described on

page WA-22. However, a loose idler chain can result in worn chain links, worn or
broken teeth on the idler or brake disc sprockets, a reduction in vehicle performance
and personal hazard to the operator. Please inspect the idler chain regularly.

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1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall.

2. Check the deflection of the idler chain. If it deflects more than 1/8", adjust the
tension immediately.
3. Loosen off the power pack frame.
‹ On 6x6 vehicles manufactured prior to S8131, locate and loosen off the four 1/2"-
20x1.5" power pack frame mounting bolts. Refer to Section 4.0 Power Pack As-
sembly Illustration in the appropriate parts manual. There is one located on each
side of the power pack frame in front of the idler axles, and one visibly located on
each side of the power pack frame, behind the idler axles. These bolts are threaded
into nuts welded to the lower frame assembly.

‹ On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles,
loosen the locknut in front and behind the idler axles. These are threaded to 2
mounting bolts inserted through the power pack frame from right to left attaching it
at the lower frame. See Photo WA-46 on page WA-20

4. Adjust the chain tension

‹ On 6x6 models produced from S7304 and prior to S8131, undo the jam nuts at the
chain tensioner bolts and using an allen head wrench, turn the adjustment bolts
clockwise to raise the back end of the power pack frame. This will tighten the idler
chains. Models prior to S7304 will require a 3/4" socket on the adjustment bolt
head to raise the power pack frame.

‹ On ARGOS manufactured from SN7841, S8131 and all RB, CB, BF & C vehicles,
locate the two 3/8"-16x3" bolts threaded into the lower frame channel beneath the
rear power pack mounting bolt. Turn each of these counter-clockwise to raise the
rear of the power pack frame assembly. See Photo WA-47 on page WA-21

IMPORTANT
When adjusting idler chain tension, be sure to always alternate between each
adjustment bolt a little at a time. DO NOT over-tighten the idler chains.

5. Refering to Photo WA-49 on page WA-22, tension the chains until the amount of
deflection is less than 1/8"
6. Secure the jam nuts of each tensioner bolt. (Prior to S8131 6x6’s only).
7. Tighten all power pack mounting bolts.

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8. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall.
Removing the Idler Shaft (Conquest, Response, Bigfoot & Conquest 6x6)

IMPORTANT
Idler shafts on Conquest, Response, Bigfoot & 6x6 Conquest models manufactured
from S/N CB16970, RB17033, BF11543 & V6016200000C12747, utilize 1 retaining
ring on each shaft. These are seated to a machined groove on each of the shafts. One
idler shaft has an “inboard” retaining ring and the other an “outboard” retaining
ring. A better explanation of these retaining rings is discussed in the servicing
procedure, Removing the Idler Shaft, for those vehicles manufactured in the above
serial number range. This retaining ring minimizes the amount the floating sprocket
can float.
Vehicles prior to the above serial numbers do not have these retaining rings installed
to the idler shafts. The newer style idler shaft is fully exchangeable with the earlier
ones, however, during reassembly of the floating sprocket to the newer idler shaft, it
should be noted that it is installed facing opposite to the way it was originally
installed on the older style shaft. Earlier sprockets were installed with the set screw
hole facing outwards. The newer style shaft requires the sprocket to be installed with
the set screw hole facing inwards.
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall.
2. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Battery & unbolt the battery holder
from the lower frame, (Right side idler shaft only), in section ES.
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Driven Clutch, (Left side idler
shaft only), in section CS. (Optional, if you find it easier to access the idler shaft)
4. Remove the brake caliper (mechanical or hydraulic) on the side of the idler shaft
being removed. You do not have to disconnect the brake line from the hydraulic
caliper. Refer to steps 1 through 4 of Removing the Brake Pads, in the brake sec-
tion of this service guide. (Optional as above)
5. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Removal.
6. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Brake Disc in section BR. (Op-
tional, if you find it easier to access the idler shaft)

7. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Removal. Remove the front drive
chain connecting the front wheel to the idler axle, as well as the drive chain connect-
ing the middle (6 wheel) or mid/front (8 wheel) to the idler axle. Photo WA-52
8. Locate the 2 set screws on the inner and outer bearings and remove.
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9. With the set screws removed, pry the idler axle until it slides freely by hand within
the inner and outer bearing. Photo WA-53

WA-52 WA-53

‹ On vehicles manufactured prior to S/N CB16970, RB17033 and BF11543:

i. Remove the hardware securing the flanges of the inner and outer bearings. Photo
WA-54
ii. Slide the idler shaft assembly towards the inner bearing, and lift up and out at the
outer bearing and flange assembly. Photo WA-55

WA-54 WA-55

iii. Move the idler shaft assembly to a clean

work area and remove the bearings,
flanges and the floating double sprocket.
Photo WA-56

WA-56

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‹ On vehicles manufactured from S/N CB16970, RB17033, BF11543 and C Vehi-
cles:
Argos manufactured from the above serial numbers utilize a retaining ring on each idler
axle shaft. The left hand side idler axle shaft has 1 retaining ring which is “outboard” to
the floating double sprocket. The right hand side idler axle shaft has a retaining ring
which is “inboard” to the floating double sprocket. Photo WA-57 & 58
i For the left side idler shaft, you will need to pull the retaining ring away from the
floating sprocket, towards the end of the spline. Photo WA-59

WA-57 WA-58

ii. Push the idler shaft into the inner bearing, and lift up and out at the bearing and
flange assembly on the opposite end of the shaft. Photo WA-60

WA-59

WA-60

iii. For the right hand side idler shaft, you will need to pull the floating sprocket to-
wards you as far as the spline of the shaft will allow.
iv. With a retaining ring pliers pull the inboard retaining ring back and up against the
sprocket. Photo WA-61
v. Push the idler shaft into the inner bearing, and lift up and out at the bearing and
flange assembly on the opposite end of the shaft. Photo WA-62
iv. Move the idler shaft assembly to a clean work area and remove the bearings,
flanges, retaining ring, and the floating double sprocket.
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WA-61 WA-62

Removing the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2 Models)

Idler shaft assemblies on Vanguard and Vanguard2 vehicles are 1 piece assemblies. There
is no floating sprocket.
IMPORTANT
When replacing 6x6 Vanguard idler axle assemblies, as in any ARGO vehicle
component, it is extremely important to always refer to the correct vehicle parts
manual. Refer to the vehicle serial & model plate number and use the corresponding
parts manual. This will identify and ensure that the correct idler axle assembly has
been installed.

E.g. Earlier 6x6 Vanguard vehicles manufactured prior to S/N S8131 utilized a
different tooth ratio on the idler axle shaft assembly. Using a newer 6x6 Vanguard
idler shaft in an earlier 6x6 Vanguard vehicle, would result in the drive chain from
the idler shaft sprocket to the front wheel sprocket, being too loose. The same result
would be noticeable at the idler chains, between the brake disc sprocket, and idler
shaft sprocket.

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall.

2. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Battery, in section ES, and unbolt
the battery holder from the lower frame (Right side idler shaft only), in section ES.
(Vehicles prior to S/N S8131 have the battery box welded to the lower frame.)
3. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Driven Clutch, (Left side idler
shaft only), in section CS. (Optional, if you find it easier to access the idler shaft)
4. Remove the brake caliper (Mechanical or hydraulic) on the side of the idler shaft
being removed. You do not have to disconnect the brake line from the caliper on the
Vanguard2 hydraulic brake system. Refer to steps 1 through 4 of Removing the
Brake Pads in the brake section of this service guide. (Optional as above)

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5. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Removal.
6. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Brake Disc in section BR. (Op-
tional, if you find it easier to access the idler shaft).
7. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Removal. Remove the front drive
chain connecting the front wheel to the idler axle, as well as the drive chain connect-
ing the center wheel to the idler axle. Photo WA-63
8. Locate the 2 set screws on the inner and outer bearings and remove.
Photo WA-64 & 65

WA-63 WA-64

9. Using a pry bar at the outer bearing,

pry the idler axle assembly towards
the inner bearing to loosen up the
shaft. Photo WA-66
10. Remove all the hardware from the
inner and outer bearing flanges.

‹ On vehicles manufactured prior to WA-65

S10178 & SN10191:

i. Slide an open end wrench between the WA-66

lower body and frame, at the outer idler
axle bearing flange assembly. Hold the
head of the bolt while removing the 2
nuts and lockwashers.

ii. Remove the hardware on the flange of

the inner bearing. WA-00

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‹ On vehicles manufactured from S10178 & SN10191:

i. Remove the 4 nuts and lockwashers at
the flange assembly securing the inner
and outer idler axle bearings.
11. Slide the idler shaft assembly towards
the inner bearing, and lift up and out at
the outer bearing and flange assembly.
Photo WA-67
12. Remove the assembly to a clean work WA-67
area and separate all components.

Idler Shaft Inspection

Maintenance Schedule - Inspect every 30 hours of vehicle operation

Damage to the idler shaft and sprockets can result from loose idler chains or
sprocket misalignment. Please inspect regularly.

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Firewall in section VB.

2. Inspect the sprockets on the idler shaft thoroughly for:

„ cracks in the casting

„ worn, broken or missing teeth
If any of these conditions are noted, replace the idler shaft (Vanguard or Vanguard 2
models) and/or the floating sprocket (Conquest, Bigfoot, Response or 6x6 Conquest
models) immediately.
IMPORTANT
If any wear is noted on the idler shaft or it’s components, it is advisable to check the
brake disc drive sprocket as well to ensure that the misalignment has not caused any
damage to this drive component either.

When ordering a replacement idler shaft assembly, please note that different ARGO
models use different idler assemblies. Refer to the correct parts manual to ensure the
correct replacement part.

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Inspect the idler shaft thoroughly for:
„ bends
„ rust or corrosion
„ cracks or breaks in the welding joints. (Vanguard and Vanguard2 only)
If any of these conditions are noted, replace the idler shaft immediately.
Inspect all the idler shaft fittings for:
„ seized or worn bearings
„ loose set screws at the bearings
„ loose inner or outer flanges
Replace any seized or worn bearings. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the
Idler Shaft and Installing the Idler Shaft to do this.
For all loose but otherwise good idler shaft fittings, perform the servicing procedure, Idler
Shaft Alignment. (Vanguard and Vanguard2 models only)
Installing the Idler Shaft (Conquest, Response, Bigfoot & Conquest 6x6)

IMPORTANT
Idler shafts on Conquest, Response, Bigfoot & 6x6 Conquest models manufactured
from S/N CB16970, RB17033, BF11543 & V6016200000C12747 utilize 1 retaining
ring on each shaft. These are seated to a machined groove on each of the shafts
during assembly of the floating sprocket. The right hand side idler shaft has an
“inboard” retaining ring, while the left hand side has an “outboard” retaining ring.
Vehicles prior to the above serial numbers do not have these retaining rings installed
to the idler shafts. The newer style idler shaft is fully exchangeable with the earlier
ones, however, during reassembly of the floating sprocket to the idler shaft, it should
be noted that it is installed facing opposite to the way it was originally installed on
the older style shaft.

Earlier sprockets were installed with the set screw hole facing outwards (towards the
outer bearing). The newer style shaft requires the sprocket to be installed with the
set screw hole facing inwards (towards the inner bearing).

If reinstalling the original idler shaft and floating sprocket assembly, it would benefit at
this time to wash the idler shaft and floating sprocket in a varsol bath to eliminate any
accumulated grease or dirt & debris build up between the teeth of the double sprockets.
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1. Begin by applying anti-seize compound along the spline of the idler shaft, as well as
at both ends where inner and outer bearings are installed.
2. Assemble a flange to both inner and outer bearing mount studs on the lower frame.
Photo WA-68
3. Place a gasket to each of the previouly installed flanges. Photo WA-69

WA-68 WA-69

‹ On vehicles manufactured prior to S/N CB16970, RB17033 and BF11543:

i. Assemble the floating sprocket to the idler shaft with the set screw side facing out-
wards (towards the outer bearing). Photo WA-70
ii. Slip the greasable flange to the same side as the sprocket. Photo WA-71

WA-70 WA-71

iii. Slip the inner bearing on to the shaft with the set screws and collar facing towards
the sprocket. Photo WA-72

iv. Install a greasable flange and the outer bearing to the opposite side of the shaft, once
again facing the collar and set screws of the bearing inwards. Photo WA-73

Take note of the machined indents on this end of the shaft. Bearing set screws are aligned
and secured at these locations in a later assembly operation.

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WA-72 WA-73

v. Install the idler shaft assembly into the vehicle. Slip the inner bearing end of the
shaft in first, then drop the outer bearing end connecting bearing and flanges to the
studs. Photo WA-74

IMPORTANT
Ensure that the greasable flanges are installed with the greaseable fitting facing up.
Photo WA-75

WA-74 WA-75

vi. Install all bearing flange hardware and tighten securely. Torque to specifications

vii. Align the 2 set screw holes of the

outer bearing with the 2 machined
countersinks of the idler shaft. Apply
blue 242 LOCTITE to both hole and
threads of the set screw and install.
Photo WA-76 Torque to specifica-
tions.
WA-76

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x. Align the 2 set screw holes of the inner
bearing, with the lower part of the spline
on the idler shaft. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the holes, as well as the
threads of the set screws, and install.
Torque to specifications.
Photo WA-77
WA-77
‹ On vehicles manufactured from S/N
CB16970, RB17033, BF11543 &
V6016200000C12747:
Left Hand Side Idler Axle
i. Slip the “outboard” retaining ring on to the idler shaft past both machined grooves
(vehicles manufactured from 2007 will have (4) machined grooves on this idler
shaft), and to the end of the spline. Photo WA-78

ii. Next, install the floating sprocket with the set screw hole facing inwards (towards
the inner bearing side). Place it up against the retaining ring. Photo WA-79

WA-78 WA-79

Right Hand Side Idler Axle

iii. Install the floating sprocket with the set
screw hole facing inwards (towards the
inner bearing side). Slip it on as far as it
will go. Photo WA-80
iv. Install the “inboard” retaining ring up
WA-80
against the sprocket. Photo WA-81

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WA-81 WA-82

ii. Slip the greasable flange to the same side as the sprocket. Photo WA-82
iii. Slip the inner bearing on to the shaft with the set screws and collar facing towards
the sprocket. Photo WA-83
iv. Install a greasable flange and the outer bearing to the opposite side of the shaft, once
again facing the collar and set screws of the bearing inwards. Photo WA-84
v. Install the idler shaft assembly into the vehicle. Slip the inner bearing end of the
shaft in first, then drop the outer bearing end connecting bearing and flanges to the
IMPORTANT
studs. Photo WA-85

Ensure that the greasable flanges are installed with the greaseable fitting facing up.
Photo WA-86

WA-83 WA-84

WA-85 WA-86

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vi. Install all bearing flange hardware and tighten securely. Torque to specifications.
vii. Seat the "outboard" and "inboard" retaining rings to the grooves on the idler shaft. If
Idler shaft has (4)four machined retaining ring grooves, refer to Supplement
Pages WA- 36A for correct retaining ring groove location.

viii. Align the 2 set screw holes of the outer bearing with the 2 machined countersinks of
the idler shaft. See photo WA-76 on
page WA-34. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE
to both hole and threads of the set screw
and install. Torque to specifications.

ix. Align the 2 set screw holes of the inner

bearing, with the lower part of the spline
on the idler shaft. Apply blue 242
WA-87
LOCTITE to the holes, as well as the
threads of the set screws, and install.
Torque to specifications. Photo WA-87
4. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Installation. Install the front drive
chain connecting the front wheel to the idler axle, as well as the drive chain connect-
ing the middle (6 wheel)or mid/front (8 wheel) to the idler axle.
5. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication.
6. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Brake Disc in section BR.
7. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Installation.
8. Reinstall the brake caliper. The brake caliper should still be connected to the brake
line.
Before installing the caliper, make sure that the brake caliper pistons and pads are spread
far enough apart to accommodate the thickness of the brake disc when the caliper is
slipped back into position, and remounted to the transmission.
9. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Driven Clutch, (Left side idler shaft
only), in section CS.

10. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Battery, and re-fasten the battery
box at the lower frame (Right side idler shaft only). Vanguards prior to S8131 have
a welded battery box.

If the brake caliper was disconnected from the hydraulic system, perform the servicing
procedure, Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System in section BR

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11. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall in section VB.

Installing the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2 Models)

IMPORTANT
6x6 Vanguard and Vanguard2 idler axles, unlike those used on Conquest, Response,
Bigfoot or Conquest 6x6, have a distinct left and right hand side. When replacing an
idler axle, keep this in mind and order accordingly.

1. Place the inner flange to the studs located beneath the power pack frame.
Photo WA-88
2. Place a gasket to the previously installed flange. Photo WA-89
3. Assemble the greasable flange to the idler axle assembly.(Larger diameter sprocket
end). WA-90
4. Slip the inner bearing to the same end as the greasable flange, with the collar facing
in. Photo WA-91

WA-88 WA-89

WA-90 WA-91

5. Install inner flange, bearing, and outer flange to the opposite end of the idler shaft.
Photo WA-92 See note following page.
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On vehicles manufactured from S10178 & SN10191 both inner and outer flanges are
greasable. Earlier models only utilize the greasable flange at the inner bearing.

WA-92 WA-93

6. Install the idler shaft assembly into the vehicle. Slip the inner bearing end of the
shaft in first, then drop the outer bearing end, connecting bearing and flanges to the
studs. Photo WA-93
7. Install all mounting hardware to the flanges and tighten securely. Torque to specifi-
cations.

On vehicles manufactured prior to S/N S10178 & SN10191, slide an open end wrench
between the lower body and frame at the outer idler axle bearing flange assembly. Hold
the head of the bolt while tightening the mounting hardware.

8. Install the brake disc. Depending on the year of vehicle, the output shafts and brake
discs may either be keyed or splined (See NOTE at bottom of page BR-38). Apply
blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the mounting bolt and secure with lockwasher
and flat washer. The brake disc bolt will be easier to torque later once the calipers
have been installed and applied to hold it secure.

IMPORTANT
Apply anti-seize to output shafts before installing the brake discs.
Aligning the Idler Shaft (Vanguard & Vanguard2 Models)
9. Idler shafts must be aligned with the brake disc sprocket using a square and V
Block.

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10. Place the V block and square on to the idler shaft, pushing the square up against the
inner drive sprocket. Photo WA-94

WA-94 WA-95

11. Tap the idler shaft using a soft face mallet until the square contacts the upper
sprocket. Photo WA-95

12. Once aligned, the idler shaft must be drilled at the two bearing set screw locations
of the inner bearing. Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill the idler shaft axle using the set
screw hole as a guide. The idler shaft need only be drilled enough to provide a
good seat for the set screw when it is installed.

Use extreme caution when drilling to prevent any damage to the inner bearing set
screw threads. Be sure drilling is done perpendicular to the shaft and does not come
into contact with the threads of the set screw holes.

13. Apply Red 271 LOCTITE to the set screw threads and holes of the inner & outer
bearings and tighten securely. Torque to specifications.
14. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Installation. Install the front drive
chain, connecting the front wheel to the idler axle, as well as the drive chain con-
necting the middle (6 wheel)or mid/front (8 wheel) to the idler axle.
15. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication.
16. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Brake Disc in section BR.
17. Perform the servicing procedure, Idler Chain Installation.
18. Reinstall the brake caliper. The hydraulic brake caliper (Vanguard2), should still be
connected to the brake line. See NOTE following page.

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Before installing the hydraulic caliper(Vanguard2), make sure that the brake caliper
pistons and pads are spread far enough apart to accommodate the thickness of the brake
disc when the caliper is slipped back into position, and remounted to the transmission.

19. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Driven Clutch, (left side idler shaft
only), in section CS.
20. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Battery, and re-fasten the battery
box at the lower frame (Right side idler shaft only), Vanguards prior to S8131 have
a welded battery box.

If the brake caliper was disconnected from the hydraulic system (Vanguard2), perform the
servicing procedure, Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System, in section BR

21. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Firewall, in section VB.

Do not use high pressure or excessive amounts of grease. Damage to the bearing
seals could result.
Idler Shaft Bearing Lubrication - All Models
The idler shaft bearing flanges are fitted with grease fittings. These bearings should be
greased with a small amount of a lithium based grease, NLGI #2 or #3 mineral oil (such as
Shell Alvania #3) every 100 hours of operation or whenever major maintenance is
performed on the vehicle. The grease fittings become more accessible when the idler
chains are removed. Alternatively, ARGO Part# 658-16 Right Angle Coupler, can be used
to access these fittings (also sold at automotive supply stores as a Right Angle Grease
Coupler, Thexton part no. 418) Photo WA-96 & 97

WA-96 WA-97

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Removing an Axle (Without Bearing Extension)
1. Locate the axle to be removed and perform the servicing procedure, Removing the
Drive Chains.
2. Locate the bolt threaded to end of the
axle at the inner bearing and remove.
Photo WA-98

6x6 Vanguard vehicles manufactured prior to

S/N S7447 do not utilize axles with this end
WA-98
bolt design.

3. Remove the 2 set screws from the inner bearing collar. Photo WA-99
4. Remove the set screw from the drive sprocket. Photo WA-100 (Except for all front
sprockets which float)

Front axles on Vanguard 6x6's manufactured prior to S/N S8131 are not splined. These
axles and sprockets are keyed and allow the front sprocket to float. Loosen the set screw
on the locking collar used to limit the amount the sprocket can float.

WA-99 WA-100

5. Remove all hardware securing the

flanges of both inner and outer bearings.
Photo WA-101

Depending on the axle and location of the

drive sprocket, you may have to slide the
sprocket along the axle to better access the
hardware of the flanges with your wrenches. WA-101

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6. Remove the tire from the axle.

7. Pull the axle from the vehicle. If necessary use a soft faced mallet to knock the axle
at the hub, from behind. Photo WA-102
8. Retrieve the drive sprocket from inside the vehicle once the axle has been
completely removed from the vehicle.
9. Remove the axle assembly to a clean work bench for further disassembly
10. Remove gaskets and flanges.
11. Remove the set screws of the outer bearing and slide the bearing from the axle. If
the bearing does not slide off freely, an arbor press may be needed. Photo WA-103

WA-102 WA-103

12. Remove the greasable flange.

Removing the Axle Seals

1. Perform the servicing procedure,

Removing the Axle (With bearing
Ext.) or (Without Bearing Ext.)
2. Remove the seals from the greasable
flange using a hammer and drift
WA-104
punch. Photo WA-104

6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S/N S7447 have only a single seal in the outer
bearing greasable flange. Later 6x6 models,as well as all other models, have 2 grease
seals in the outer bearing greasable flange. Single seal outer bearing greasable flanges
are no longer available and must be updated to the to the double seal if replaced.

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3. Clean the cavity of the greasable flange in a varsol bath to remove any accumulated
dirt and grease.
4. Blow the greasable flange with compressed air to thoroughly dry and remove any
remaining dirt.
Installing the Axle Seals
1. Before you can install the new seal to the greasable flange, you must debur the area
in which the grease seal was staked. Use a small pencil die grinder to remove the
staked area. Photo WA-105

Do not debur the flange excessively. Over-grinding could produce a loose fitting
seal, resulting in a poorly sealed axle.

WA-105 WA-106

On single seal greasable flanges:

1. Lightly coat the perimeter of the seal

with some red 271 LOCTITE.

2. Orient the seal, face down, and using

an arbor press and installation tool, press
the seal into the greasable flange ensur-
ing that it has seated to the shoulder in WA-107
the flange. Photo WA-106
3. Using a center punch and hammer, lightly stake around the perimeter of the seal in
as many places as were used previously. Photo WA-107

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WA-108 WA-109

On dual seal greasable flanges:

There are 2 different styles of grease seals used in the dual seal outer bearing greasable
flange. Photo WA-108 These grease seals are differentiated in size & by 2 part numbers.
Assemble the seals into the flange accordingly referring to the illustration in your
corresponding parts manual.
1. Lightly coat the perimeter of the outer
grease seal with red 271 LOCTITE
and install at the arbour press with an
installation tool. Be sure it is seated
properly. Photo WA-109
2. Apply red 271 LOCTITE to the inner
seal as above, and install at the arbor
press in the same manner, ensuring it WA-110
has seated to the shoulder within the
outer greasable flange. Photo WA-110
3. Using a center punch and hammer, lightly stake
around the perimeter of the inner seal in as many
places as were used previously. Photo WA-110

Installing an Axle (Without Bearing Extension)

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the In-
ner Bearing Assembly, if necessary.
2. Locate the axle and stand it upright on a clean work
bench. Photo WA-111
WA-111

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3. Slip the outer bearing greasable flange over the axle shaft. Photo WA-112
4. Slip the outer bearing over the axle shaft, orienting it with the collar facing up.
Photo WA-113
5. Align the flat machined surface closest to the sprocket end of the axle, with the set
screw hole of the bearing. Apply 242 blue LOCTITE to the threads of the set screw
and install. Torque to specifications. Photo WA-114
6. Install the second set screw as above.
7. Fill the outer bearing cavity with axle grease.

WA-112 WA-113

WA-114 WA-115

8. Pull the outer flange up and against

the bearing, taking note of the small
hole in the bearing. Align this hole
with the greasable fitting on the
flange. Photo WA-115 & 116
9. Apply anti-seize compound to the
spline of the axle.
WA-116

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10. Place a cork gasket on to the outer flange. Photo WA-117
11. Place the inner flange on top of the cork gasket. Photo WA-118
12. Place a second gasket to the top of the inner flange. Photo WA-119
13. Assemble the 4 carriage bolts to the outer flange and install the axle assembly into
the lower body and frame. Orient the greasable fittings so that the outer grease
fitting is at the 9 o'clock position, and the inner one is at12 o'clock. Photo WA-120

If you have a single seal greasable flange, the fitting is at 12 o'clock.

WA-117 WA-118

WA-119 WA-120

14. Locate the drive sprocket and slip it on

to the axle with the set screw hole fac-
ing to the inside. Photo WA-121 Be
sure that the set screw hole of the
sprocket, is aligned with the spline on
the axle with the machined countersinks.

15. Align the end of the axle with the inner WA-121
bearing. Push the axle the remaining
way and install the flange hardware. Photo WA-122
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WA-122 WA-123
16. Tighten down the hardware of both inner and outer bearing flanges. Torque to
specifications.
17. Secure the sprocket to the axle shaft. Line up the countersink in the axle shaft with
the set screw in the sprocket. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads of the set
screw and tighten. Torque to specifications. Photo WA-123 (All front drive
sprockets are floaters and do not require the set screw.)
18. Install the bolt and flat washers to the
end of the axle. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the threads of the bolt and
torque to specifications. Photo WA-124
See NOTE top of page WA-41 regard-
ing 6x6 Vanguards prior to S7447
19. Apply blue 242 LOCTITE to the threads
of the 2 set screws of the inner bearing
and install. Torque to specifications. . WA-124

‹ Keyed Front Axles - used on Vanguard 6x6's manufactured prior to S/N S8131:
i. Assemble the keys to the axle shaft and apply anti-seize to the keyed area.
ii. Slip the keyed sprocket on to end of the axle shaft with the longer shoulder side
facing inwards. At the same time, align the keys on the axle shaft with the keyways
iii. Slide the sprocket on followed by the locking collar used as a stop to limit the
amount this sprocket may float.
i. Tighten down and torque all inner and outer bearing flange hardware. Install the
front drive chain. Align the axle sprocket, with that of the sprocket on the idler axle.

ii. Position the locking collar on the front axle shaft so that it limits the amount the
front axle sprocket may float to the right of the axle shaft. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the set screw on the collar and tighten down securely. Back to step 18
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20. Perform the servicing procedure, Outer Axle & Bearing Lubrication
21. Perform the servicing procedure, Inner Axle Bearing Lubrication
Outer Axle Flange & Bearing Lubrication

Do not use high pressure pneumatic greasing equipment

Each outer axle flange is equipped with two
grease fittings. Grease the outer cavity through
the outer fitting of each flange with a lithium
based grease, NLGI #2 or #3 mineral oil (such
as Shell Alvania #3) frequently, at least every
25 hours of operation, to flush dirt and water
that may have entered the axle seal. Only a
small amount of pressure should be required.
Grease until any contamination has been
forced out past the seal and fresh grease is
visible.
At the same time, inspect all the axle seals for
damage. Vegetation wrapping around the axles
can damage the rubber lip of the seal, allowing
dirt and water into the outer cavity. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Axle
Seals if they need to be replaced.
The second or inner grease fitting of the outer axle flange supplies grease directly to the
outer axle bearing. Since the bearing is well sealed and packed with grease when
manufactured, it requires re-greasing only every 100 hours of operation or before the
vehicle is taken out of service for any extended period. Use a pistol grip type grease gun
to avoid dislocating the bearing seals due to excessive grease pressure.
Inner Axle Bearing Lubrication
The inner axle flanges are equipped with a
grease fitting. Lubricate the bearings with a
small amount of a lithium based grease, NLGI
#2 or #3 mineral oil (such as Shell Alvania
#3)or equivalent every 100 hours or before the
vehicle is taken out of service for any extended
period. Only a small amount of grease is
required.
22. Install the tire and torque the nuts to specification.

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23. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Drive Chain.
Removing an Axle (With Bearing Extension)
Response, Bigfoot and Conquest 6x6 vehicles, are manufactured with a cast aluminum
bearing extension assembled to the front axles. The Conquest 8x8 model utilizes these
extensions at both front and rear axles.
The same procedure used for removing a standard axle, can be used for removing an axle
with a bearing extension. See servicing procedure, Removing an Axle on page WA-42.
The bearing extension can remain bolted to the lower frame.
Installing an Axle (With Bearing Extension)
When installing the outer bearing to an axle with an aluminum bearing extension, it needs
to be secured to the machined area on the axle closest to the wheel hub. Carriage
mounting bolts are also longer and need to be assembled to the outer flange first before
this bearing is secured to the axle. See Photo WA-127 on following page.
There are also some differences in the mounting of the outer flanges to the extension with
regards to components, depending on the date of manufacture. On Models manufactured
prior to S/N CB19200, RB19204, BF13178 & C13176, there is no inner flange or second
gasket assembled to the extension. Install gasket, then bearing and greasable flange.
Photo WA-125
Vehicles manufactured from S/N CB19200, RB19204, BF13178 & C13176 require
gasket, inner flange, second gasket, then outer bearing and greasable outer flange.
Photo WA-126
IMPORTANT
This information is extremely important, especially if the aluminum extension has been
replaced. Older style extensions are no longer available and must be replaced with the
new design. These new extensions will require the extra components in reassembly.

WA-125 WA-126
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1. Assemble the axle as shown in Photo WA-127

2. Install the axle assembly into the lower body and
extension. Orient the greasable fittings so that the
outer grease fitting is at the 9 o'clock position, and
the inner one is at 12 o'clock. Photo WA-128
3. Locate the drive sprocket and slip it on to the axle
with the set screw hole facing to the inside. Align
the spline of the axle with the machined
countersinks, with the set screw hole in the drive
sprocket. Photo WA-129
WA-127

WA-128 WA-00
WA-129

IMPORTANT
Drive sprockets on front axles of all models are free floating and do not require set
screws to secure them to the axle shaft.
4. Align the end of the axle, with the inner
bearing. Push the axle the remaining
way and install the flange hardware.
5. Tighten down the hardware of both in-
ner and outer bearing flanges. Torque
to specifications.
6. Install the bolt and flat washers to the
end of the axle. Apply blue 242
LOCTITE to the threads of the bolt and WA-130
torque to specifications. Photo WA-130
7. Install the drive chains.

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Removing the Bearing Extension

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing an Axle (With Bearing Extension).

2. Locate and remove the 6 bolts and flat
washers securing the extension to the
frame. Photo WA-131
3. Remove the extension.
4. Remove any old gasket that may still be
present on the lower body from the pre-
vious extension. Clean the area thor-
oughly before assembling the new ex-
tension to the lower body frame.
WA-131
Installing the Bearing Extension
1. Slip 6 bolts through the bearing exten-
sion mounting holes and install the gas-
ket to the bottom of the extension.
Photo WA-132

IMPORTANT
Older style bearing extensions that have been
replaced with the new design type, will WA-132
require a new style gasket as well. Vehicles
manufactured from S/N CB19200, RB19204,
BF13178 & C13176 feature this new design. Older design extensions are no longer
available as a stock item. Photo WA-133 & 134

WA-133 WA-134

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2. Fasten the extension to the lower body.

Torque ot specifications. Photo WA-135
3. Perform the servicing procedure, In-
stalling an Axle (With Bearing Exten-
sion).
Removing the Inner Bearing
1. Perform the servicing procedure, Re-
WA-135
moving an Axle, steps 1through 8. The
axle needs to be pulled from the inner
bearing to be serviced. The axle assem-
bly should be pulled completely at this
point so that the old gasket at the outer
bearing flange may be replaced with a
new one.
2. Remove the inner bearing flange hard-
ware securing the bearing to the frame
and remove the assembly to a clean WA-136
work surface. Photo WA-136
Installing the Inner Bearing
Assembling the Inner Bearing and Flange
Assembly

1. Place the bearing into the greasable

flange with the set screw collar facing
down. At the same time align the small
hole in the bearing with the grease fit-
ting in the flange. Photo WA-137 WA-137

IMPORTANT
6x6 Vanguards manufactured prior to S/N S7447, differ in axle and bearing setup.
These vehicles require the inner bearing to be assembled to the greasable flange with
the collar facing up, but still aligning the small hole in the bearing with the grease
fitting in the flange.

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2. Place a gasket to the top of the greasable flange. Photo WA-138

Vehicles manufactured from serial numbers A13984, R20470, C20468 & B13985 do not
require this inner gasket due to a tooling change to the inner flange assembly.
3. Place regular flange to the top of the gasket. Photo WA-139

WA-138 WA-139

4. Assemble the bearing and flange assembly to the inner frame channel and secure
with the appropriate hardware. Orient the grease fitting facing up.
Photo WA-140 & 141

Be sure that the axle has been installed first to the inner bearing before tightening down
and torquing all flange mounting hardware.

WA-140 WA-141

5. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing an Axle.

6. Perform the servicing procedure, Drive Chain Installation.

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Removing a Tire
1. Loosen each of the wheel nuts on the tire.
2. Raise the vehicle off the ground and remove all 5 wheel nuts.
3. Pull the tire from the vehicle.

Wheel Disassembly

IMPORTANT
Proper tools are required for tire removal

1. Remove the valve core to deflate the tire.

2. Break both tire beads loose.

If it is difficult to break the bead, apply a soap and water solution or tire mounting
lubricant to the rim periphery.

Do not damage the tire bead or rim bead seat. Damage to them will prevent proper
sealing.

3. Apply lubricant to both beads.

4. Use one tire iron to hold the bead and another to work the bead over the rim flange.
Place the irons at close intervals, working only small bead sections at a time.
5. Remove the tire from the rim.
Tire Pressure
Normal Cold Tire Pressure: 2.5 - 3 psi.
Maximum (to seat bead): 32 psi. or listed on tire.

Tire pressure should be checked when tires are cold. A special low pressure gauge is
available through your distributor, dealer or Ontario Drive & Gear Ltd.

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Tire Inspection
Maintenance Schedule - Inspect every 25 hours of vehicle operation.
Inspect the tires for:
• proper tire inflation pressure
• valve stem condition
• good bead contact with rim
• loose wheel nuts
• cuts, puntures, excessive wear, etc.
• leakage around the tire seal
• bead damage
• damaged wheel rims and wheel hubs

Replace damaged or worn tires immediately. When a pressure leak is suspected,

locate it by spraying around the tire with a leak locating solution or placing in a tank
of water.
Tire Repair and Replacement

To repair or replace a tire you will need to remove it from the rim.

Use of a non-standard tire on any Argo model will affect the steering characteristics
of the vehicle. Serious injury could result.

Temporary Repair
To temporarily repair a punctured tire, use the plug method. A plug kit, available from
most automotive parts stores, will provide the parts, tools and instructions to carry out the
repair.
General Tire Repair
To more permanently repair a damaged or punctured tire, apply a radial tire patch to the
inside of the tire if the damage is less than 1/2" (12mm) in diameter. This type of kit is
also available from most automotive stores.

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Wheel Reassembly

Be sure the rim is clean and smooth

1. Apply lubricant to the bead and rim bead seat.

Never use petroleum or silicon based solutions as lubricants. Rim slippage, bead
damage or dislodging of the bead may result. Regular tire lube or a thin liquid soap
and water solution works best.
2. Work the bead over the rim flange with tire irons, small sections at a time.
3. Turn the tire over and work the other side on.

Use a safety cage and remote inflation control valve when seating a tire bead.
NEVER stand near a tire when the bead is seating. NEVER exceed the
recommended seating pressure. The tire can break with an explosive force which
can cause serious injury or death.

4. Inflate the tire until until each bead has popped and seated to the rim. If it doesn't
pop immediately, leave it sit a few minutes under pressure. NEVER exceed the
recommended pressure for seating the bead indicated on the tire.
5. Inspect both beads for proper seating.
6. Install the valve stem and adjust to the proper pressure (2.5 - 3 psi.)
7. Install valve cap.

Valve Replacement
1. Demount the outer bead. See servicing procedure, Wheel Disassembly, in this
section of the service guide.
2. Push the valve out of the rim, towards the inside of the tire.
3. Insert the new valve from the inside of the tire, and pull it into place with a valve
pulling tool.

Be sure the valve seats evenly into the valve hole of the rim

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4. Inflate the tire to remount the bead. See servicing procedure, Wheel Reassembly in
this section of the service guide.
Wheel Installation
1. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the axle hub studs.
2. Place the wheel on to the mounting studs.
3. Install the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nut facing into the rim.
4. Tighten the nuts in a clockwise direction and torque to specifications.
5. Lower the vehicle to the floor.

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SECTION WA

Supplement Pages

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Assembling The Idler Shafts To The Vehicle (Avenger Models Prior to 25622)
1. Apply some LOCTITE anti-sieze compound to each end of the 810-32 idler shafts .

Right Hand Idler Shaft 15A

2. Install a 606-72 idler sprocket to a 810-
32 idler shaft. Install it with the collar of
the sprocket facing up. Photo 15A
Next, install a 101-20 greasable flange
followed by a 101-35 bearing to the op-
posite end of the shaft. Photo 15B

Face the collar of the 101-35 bearing

towards the sprocket

15C

15B

Left Hand Idler Shaft

1. Install a 606-72 idler sprocket to a 810-
32 idler shaft. Install it with the collar of
the sprocket facing down. Photo 15C
Next, on the opposite end of the shaft
install a 101-20 greasable flange fol-
lowed by a 101-35 bearing. Photo 15D
(See NOTE above).
Avenger Models From Serial # V23216
2. Install the inner axle bearing assemblies
to the inner bearing locations on both
sides of the vehicle. This consists of a

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101-35 bearing, 101-80 right angled greasable flange & 605-63 flange.. Photo 15E
& F Secure Loosely with (4) flat washers and (4) nylon locknuts.

15E

15D

IMPOR
IMPORTTANT
Avenger models manufactured from
serial number V23216 have 90
degree greasable fittings oriented as
follows: The left hand side, with the
grease fitting located at the bottom,
facing rearward, Photo 15E, and the
15F right hand side located at the top,
also facing rearward. Photo 15F
Avengers Manufactured Prior To Serial
Number V23216
1. Install a 101-35 bearing and 101-78RM
swivel greasable flange to the previously
installed 605-63 flange at the inner idler
axle location, on both left and right side
of the frame. Photo 15G Secure Loosely
with (4) flat washers and (4)nylon
locknuts. 15G
IMPORTANT
IMPORT
The swivel grease fitting of the101-78RM is oriented to the bottom of the
flange and facing towards the drivers compartment. Photo 15G

2. Insert the grease tubing into the bulk head grease fitting. Photo 15 H See NOTE
following page.

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There are 2 different lengths of grease tubing for the left and right hand side idler shaft
assembly. See your Avenger parts manual for correct lengths.

15 H 15 I

4. Install the 100-111 bulk head fittings to the left and right side of the frame and con-
nect the tube to the swivel grease fittings of the two inner bearings. Photo 15 I
5. Install the idler shafts to the vehicle, inserting the shaft first into the inner bearing
and then attaching at the outer bearing. See orientation of sprocket collars below.
Photo 15J & 15 K

15 J 15 K

Assembling Idler Shafts To The Vehicle (Avenger Models From Serial # 25622)
810-59 Idler Shafts used on later Avenger models have a retaining ring installed to each
side of the idler shaft drive sprocket. These retaining rings help limit allowable movement
of the idler sprocket under application. As these 810-59 Idler Shafts are also common to
Conquest, Response and Bigfoot, there are (4) machined retaining ring grooves on each
shaft to accommodate each of these models. However, placement of the retaining rings is
dependant not only on model, but also whether it is a right hand side or left hand side idler
shaft. See Diagrams A and B for correct retaining ring locations (circled) on Avenger
models.
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Diagram A

Diagram B

Assembling Frontier Idler Shafts to Vehicle

Installation of the 606-78 Idler Shaft assembly on ARGO Frontier models requires the
assembly of a 107-10 Retaining Ring to each side of the 606-81 Idler Sprocket. These
retaining rings help limit allowable movement of the idler sprocket under application.
Each 606-78 Idler Shaft has (4) four retaining ring grooves machined into the shaft to
accomodate either a left hand side or right hand side idler shaft replacement. For correct
retaining ring locations, refer to Diagram C and D

Diagram C

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Diagram D

Retaining Ring Locations For Conquest, Response and Bigfoot (810-59 Idler Shafts
With (4) Retaining ring Grooves)

DIAGRAM E

DIAGRAM F

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Removing the Front Axle (Avenger Model)

1. Raise the vehicle off of the ground.

2. Remove the front tire.

3. Remove the firewall.Turn the quick release fastener located at the top of the
firewall. Pull the top of the firewall rear-
ward and into the drivers compartment.

4. Remove the front floor pan

5. Optional: If you wish to remove the

drive belt and driven clutch, it may
prove easier to access the inner axle
bearing, and in general, provide a
roomier working environment. Refer to
the Clutch Section of the 673-04 Argo WA-1
. Service Guide

7. Remove the drive chain between front sprocket and idler shaft sprocket.
Photo WA-1 Refer to Drive Chain Removal in the 673-04 Argo Service Guide.

8. Remove the inner axle fastener and washer located at the inner bearing on the axle
end. Photo WA-2

For ease of removal, place the closed end of the wrench at the fastener head while turning
the axle at the wheel hub on the outside of the vehicle. Photo WA-3

WA-2 WA-3

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9. Remove set screws at the inner bearing collar.
10. Loosen off the inner bearing flange hardware.
11. Remove the (4) nuts that secure the outer bearing greaseable flange. Photo WA-4

WA-4 WA-5

12. Using a soft faced hammer, tap the wheel hub from behind to remove the axle from
the vehicle. Photo WA-5 & 6

The outer bearing, greasable flange,and axle will be removed as an assembly. Retrieve the
drive sprocket from inside the vehicle once the axle has been completely removed from the
vehicle.

WA-6 WA-7

13. Remove the set screws from the collar of the outer bearing.
14. Using an arbor press, press the bearing and greasable flange from the axle shaft.
Photo WA-7
15. Clean all components in a varsol bath and inspect.
16. Perform the servicing procedure, Removing the Axle Seals, in the Wheels, Axles &
Chain section of the 673-04 Argo Service Guide.

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Installing the Front Axle (Avenger Models)

1. Perform the servicing procedure, Installing the Axle Seals, in the Wheels, Axles &
Chains section of the 673-04 Argo Service Guide.
2. Slip the greasable flange over the axle and slide it up close to the hub. Install the
bearing to the shaft with the collar side facing up. Position it such that the set screw
holes in the collar will be aligned and centred with the flat machined surface on the
axle closest to the hub.

Loosen off or remove the set screws from the new bearing before slipping it on to the
axle.

WA-8 WA-9

3. Apply Blue LOCTITE to the set screws and secure to the axle shaft. Torque to
specifications. Photo WA-8
4. Fill the inner grease cavity with axle grease (Lithium based, NLGI #2 or 3 mineral
oil based), using a hand grease gun. Photo WA-9
5. Set the greasable flange to the bearing aligning the grease fitting with the small hole
in the bearing. Photo WA-10 & 11

WA-10 WA-11

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6. Install a cork gasket at the front aluminum axle extension followed by a steel inner
flange and second cork gasket. Photo WA-12

WA-12 WA-13

7. Apply some anti-seize compound to the spline area of the axle shaft. Photo WA-13

8. Slip the axle assembly into the front bearing extension. Photo WA-14 On the inside
of the vehicle, prepare to install the front sprocket as the axle is pushed through to
the inner bearing.
IMPORTANT
The front axle sprocket is a "floater" and requires no set screws. Orient the
sprocket with the larger shoulder facing towards the inside of the vehicle. Photo WA-
15

WA-14 WA-15

9. Align the mounting holes of the greasable flange with the studs of the aluminum
bearing extension and place into position up tight against the cork gasket. Photo
WA-16

10. Install flat washers to the studs. Photo WA-17

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WA-16 WA-17

11. Secure with nylon locknuts and torque to specifications. Photo WA-18

WA-18 WA-19

12. Apply blue LOCTITE to the threads of

the fastener (Photo WA-19), used to se-
cure the end of the axle to the inner bear-
ing and install. Photo WA-20 Torque
to specifications. Refer to your illus-
trated parts manual for the breakdown
of the hardware used.

The example front axle replaced in this WA-20

procedure was on the left side of the
vehicle. The hardware used to secure the inner bearing flange assembly on this side,
utilizes a longer fastener installed to the top left location. It is also installed from the
opposite side as compared to the others. This is used for the installation of the
optional accessory bilge pump. Photo WA-22
13. Apply blue LOCTITE to (2) bearing set screws and install into the bearing collar.
Torque to specifications.
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14. Turn the front tensioner cam assembly
in the direction which winds up the tor-
sion spring and push the assembly down
as close as possible to the cam follower
block across the bottom of the frame
channels. Clamp it in this position with
a Vice-Grip 10CR or similar plier as il-
lustrated in WA-21
15. Perform the service procedure, Drive
Chain Installation, found in the WA-21
Wheels, Axle and Chains section of th
673-04 Argo Service Guide.
16. If you removed the driven clutch and drive belt, reinstall. Refer to Driven
Clutch Installation and Drive Belt Installation in the Clutch Section of
your 673-04 Argo Service Guide.
17. Replace the firewall and floor pans.

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