PROFESSIONAL

MAKEUP
ARTISTRY
 What are Cosmetics
 Kinds of Cosmetics
 Natural based and Chemical based
beauty products
 What do Cosmetics contain
 Are Cosmetics dangerous
 Do’s and Don’t’s in Beauty Cosmetics

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 INTRODUCTION
In 21st century, the winds of changes in the society are blowing forcefully in all parts of world for application of
cosmetic. Cosmetic word is originated from Greek word “Kosmeticos” means adorn and preparation, which is
used for this purpose, is known as cosmetic. We can define the cosmetic as “Cosmetic are external preparation
meant for to apply on external part of the body i.e., nails, skin, hair for coloring, covering, softening, cleaning,
nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal and protection” etc. We can also define it as “A
cosmetic is an item intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced in to or otherwise applied
to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance”.

All cosmetic preparation has their application for long or short periods to beautify the body as well as to keep the
body healthy up to some extent and has psychological impact to other. The “active life” of any cosmetic
preparation begins the moment it is brought in contact with the skin/hair/teeth/or nails and ends when it is
removed or has evaporated. During it is active life; it has intimate reciprocal relationship, which results, cosmetic
changes on the body. The cosmetic product prevents its outmost layer from drying out, penetrate below the
external layer and introduce active substances in to deep lying strata or adhere only superficially to change color
or luster of areas. The cosmetic which are used for decorative purposes, i.e., eye lines, rouges, mascara, face
masking preparations etc and also carries the inherent risk of desirable side effects. It may inhibit important
physiological process, chemically modify certain skin constituents (e.g., in case of bleaching and coloring
preparations), and contribute towards their removal or even give rise to certain allergic reactions.

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 What is a cosmetic?
A "cosmetic" is any substance used to clean, improve or change the complexion, skin, hair, nails or teeth.
Cosmetics include beauty preparations (make-up, perfume, skin cream, nail polish) and grooming aids (soap,
shampoo, shaving cream, deodorant).
 Cosmetics are products designed to cleanse, protect and change the appearance of external parts of our bodies.

 The key ingredients present in most cosmetics include water, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, moisturisers,
colours and fragrances.

 Ingredients can be naturally occurring or artificial, but any potential impact on our health depends mainly on
the chemical compounds they are made of.

 The doses of potentially dangerous chemicals found in cosmetics are considered too small to pose a risk to human
health.

 In Australia, cosmetics and their ingredients are highly regulated by several government agencies.

The Oxford English Dictionary defines cosmetics as:

1. Having power to adorn, embellish or beautify (esp. the complexion).
2. That affect appearance only; superficial; spec., intended merely to improve appearances.
 A key point about the OED definition is that cosmetics are superficial rather than therapeutic agents. Cosmetics
are not ‘over the counter’ (OTC) or prescription drugs or drug additives, their role is merely to improve your
appearance. This seems straight forward until you look at the full range of products that might fit this definition.

1. soaps and other body cleansing products;

2. creams, lotions, face masks, powders and colours for the skin, eyes and lips;
3. shampoos, lotions, oils, waving agents, fixatives, bleaches, dyes and dye removers for the hair;
4. lotions, polishes and colours for the nails;
5. hair removers;
6. skin bleaching and skin tanning preparations;
7. toothpastes and other oral care preparations;
8. antiperspirants, deodorants and other personal hygiene products;
9. perfumes and other aromatic substances.

Cosmetic is a Greek word which means to 'adorn' (addition of something decorative to a person or a
thing). It may be defined as a substance which comes in contact with various parts of the human body like skin,
hair, nail, lips, teeth, and mucous membranes etc,
Cosmetic substances help in improving or changing the outward show of the body and also masks the
odour of the body. It protects the skin and keeps it in good condition.
In general, cosmetics are external preparations which are applied on the external parts the body. Even in
earlier days, men and women used to decorate their bodies for improvement of appearance. Men used leaves of
vegetables and parts of animals whereas women use to wear colored stones and flowers round their neck and
wrist. Gradually, they start using colored earth and ointments on their face and body. Even bangles and
necklace made of baked earth materials became very common among the people. Eye shadow were made of
copper (coloured earth) ore and lamp black (coloured earth) while red colour was used for dyeing of hair. Now
days, cosmetics are considered as essential components in life. They not only, attract the people towards it but
also impart psychological effects. It has gained popularity in the last 3-4 decades and its use has been increased
exponentially both-in males and females. The most popular cosmetics are hair dyes, powders and creams.

Examples of Cosmetics: Uses:

Skin-care creams, powders, lotions, lipsticks, nail 1. They are used as a cleansing, moisturizing and
polishes, eye and face makeup, deodorants, baby beautifying agent.
products, hair colourants and sprays etc. 2. They help in enhancing attractiveness of the
body.
3. They help in altering the appearance of the body
without affecting its functions.
4. Sunscreen products help in protecting the body
from UV rays and treating sunburns.
5. Acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes and
other skin imperfections are treated or repaired by
treatment products.
6. Cosmetics help in treating skin infection.

Cosmetic or drug?
A personal care product can be defined as a substance or mixture of
substances which is generally recognized by the public for use in daily
cleansing or grooming. Depending on the ingredients and the claims
of a product, a personal care product can be regulated as a cosmetic or
a drug.
A beauty product or grooming aid is usually a cosmetic, but is legally
classified as a drug if it makes any claims to modify body functions, or
to prevent or treat disease. A product that is authorized as a drug has
a DIN (Drug Identification Number) or an NPN (Natural Product
Number) on its label. If you are unsure whether a product you are
using is a cosmetic or a drug, you can consult the Drug Product
Database or the Licensed Natural Health Producs Database to
determine if your product is currently authorized as a drug or natural
health product.

Valid cosmetics claims as suggested by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) in 2015. “Products intended to cleanse or beautify are generally regulated
as cosmetics. Products intended to treat or prevent disease, or affect the structure
or function of the body, are drugs. Some products are both cosmetics and drugs.”
(“Are Some Cosmetics Promising Too Much?, ” 2015).
 Different Kinds of
Ointments/ Pastes
Cosmetics Ointments or pastes are extremely thick products used for
dressing hair and cleaning skin. They are, generally, anhydrous
Solutions (contain no water), sticky and greasy.
The simplest kind of cosmetics, solution cosmetics is homogeneous
mixtures of soluble ingredients. These are prepared by simply filling Powders
the containers with main diluent (usually water) and mixing with the Powders are the most common and popular form of cosmetic
other ingredients to create the resultant cosmetic product. They can products. They are an amalgamation of solid raw materials which are
be found in the form of shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers, ground together to get a fine powder. Products like baby powder, eye
mascaras, eye liners, colognes, and so on. powder, foot powder, talcum powder, etc. are some examples.
Creams/ Emulsions Gels
Most of the cosmetics contain raw materials that are not compatible. Gels are thick, clear products characterized by a property known
Hence, creams or emulsions are preferred. These are pseudo stable as “shear thinning”. That is, they are thick when new but get thin
mixtures of immiscible liquids dispersed in another liquid. Creams and flowable as you start applying force to use them. Common
and emulsions are prepared by combining three formula components, examples of gels include hair products, body washes, shaving
such as oil phase, aqueous phase and an emulsifier. Cosmetics like products and toothpastes.
hand moisturizers, make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens, etc. are all
examples of creams or emulsions. Sticks
Sticks enter the cosmetic product list when consumers look out
Lotions for cosmetics that they would not want to touch, say, lipstick or
Lotions are less greasy and lighter counterparts of creams that underarm deodorant. Sticks are solid delivery forms that are
come in handy for applications, wherein creams cannot be used. delivered by rubbing them against the skin. These are usually
Lotions are basically thin creams that undergo the same production manufactured by heating, melting, mixing and pouring solid
procedure as that of creams. Moreover, they can easily be applied ingredients into a mold or final container, thereby allowing them
without worrying about them getting thick as opposed to to cool until they take the desired shape.
emulsions that get thick on cooling down. A few examples of
lotion cosmetics include facial moisturizers, leave-in hair Tablets & Capsules
conditioners and moisturizing cleansers. Color cosmetics are, generally, found in the form of cakes, tablets or
capsules. The solid ingredients are blended well with one another and
Suspensions pressed to get the desired shape. They are usually more expensive as
Suspensions are cosmetics that are used for overcoming incompatible they require special equipment for creating them. Compact powder,
ingredients. Similar to creams, suspensions are clear solutions eye shadow, cheek shadow cakes, etc. are some examples.
containing visible particles, such as gelatin beads or inorganic
minerals, spread throughout. Sunscreens, hand washes and shampoos
are some such examples.
 NATURAL-BASED VS. CHEMICAL-BASED BEAUTY PRODUCTS

NATURAL
–Safety. The main reason why a costumer chooses
natural over conventional beauty is because they want to
escape from cuestionable chemicals, that even if aproved CHEMICAL
by law, multiple scientific sources have detected issues
when it comes to their use. It is a fact that laws take a lot -Efficacy. The synthetic assets of high efficacy (synthetic
of time to react to these studies (due to the time it takes peptides) aren’t usually used on natural cosmetics,
to research), and that the big companies try to protect eliminating from the “natural” substances a lot of high
their interests before the consumer’s. efficacy actives.
–An active and safe fragrance. Using natural –Less natural impact. If we really think about it, some
frangances on products assures that they don’t contain “identical to natural” actives have less environmental
questionable ingredients or allergens. On the other hand, impact; in the case of a synthetic vitamin C, molecularly
natural fragrances come from essential oils that provide identical to a natural one, its natural counterpart needs to
aromatherapy and efficacy to the formulation. be harvested with natural resources and a bigger carbon
–No chemical filters. Avoiding chemical solar blockers footprint.
ensures that some chemicals allowed by law that aren’t –Less allergens. For allergic people, natural cosmetics
recommended to use aren’t included on the formulations. can be “more aggressive” than conventional because of its
–Natural symbiosis. Not even nature could tell between toxicological profile, due to the allergens on natural
a synthetic or natural acid molecule. It is true that a substances, used not only to add a fragrance or in some
natural extraction is never a 100% pure, and that lack of cases as a preservative. This can make the risk of
pureness is what makes its efficacy special, because it inflammatory reactions higher.
takes with it fractions of other vegetal compounds and – Stable formulas. Synthetic oils, silicones, emulsifiers,
improves the composition of the active. stabilizers, and synthetic antioxidants increase the
–Active galenic. Natural oils used on natural cosmetics, stability of a formula and make that their color, odor, and
substituting silicones or mineral oils, generate a greater appearance don’t change during their use time.
bioavailability of substances that nourish the skin on – Duration. Technologic formulas last longer open than
deeper layers. The same happens with natural gums as natural products, for the same reasons explained before.
thickeners, over the use of acrylates, or with the PH
balancers that on their natural form aport nutrients to
the skin.
 Conclusion
While the current scientific thinking on many of these chemicals
is that they are safe to use, it is up to each consumer to make
their own decision as to whether they purchase and use a product
containing certain ingredients or not. Consumers should also try
to purchase reputable brands from established sellers—cheap
imports or copies bought online may not have been through the
proper testing and assessment process and may not contain what
they claim to.

In our pursuit of beauty, it is wise to remember that cosmetics

can be complex combinations of chemicals. Achieving even a
basic understanding of the long chemical names on a product
ingredient list—what they are and what they do—can go a
long way to helping consumers make informed decisions about
the products they choose to use—certainly helpful when putting
on your best face.

What do cosmetics contain?

There are thousands of different cosmetic products on the market, all with differing combinations of ingredients.
In the United States alone there are approximately 12,500 unique chemical ingredients approved for use in the
manufacture of personal care products.

A typical product will contain anything from 15–50 ingredients. Considering the average woman uses between 9
and 15 personal care products per day, researchers have estimated that, when combined with the addition of
perfumes, women place around 515 individual chemicals on their skin each day through cosmetic use.

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But what exactly are we putting on our skin? What do those long names on the ingredient list mean and what do
they do? While the formula of each product differs slightly, most cosmetics contain a combination of at least
some of the following core ingredients: water, emulsifier, preservative, thickener, emollient, colour, fragrance and
pH stabilizers.

Water
If your product comes in a bottle, chances are the first ingredient on the list is going to be water. That’s right,
good old H2O. Water forms the basis of almost every type of cosmetic product, including creams, lotions,
makeup, deodorants, shampoos and conditioners. Water plays an important part in the process, often acting as
a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and forming emulsions for consistency.

Water used in the formulation of cosmetics is not your everyday, regular tap water. It must be ‘ultra-pure’—
that is, free from microbes, toxins and other pollutants. For this reason your label may refer to it as distilled
water, purified water or just aqua.

Emulsifiers
The term emulsifiers refers to any ingredient that helps to keep unlike substances (such as oil and water) from
separating. Many cosmetic products are based on emulsions—small droplets of oil dispersed in water or small
droplets of water dispersed in oil. Since oil and water don't mix no matter how much you shake, blend or stir,
emulsifiers are added to change the surface tension between the water and the oil, producing a homogeneous
and well-mixed product with an even texture. Examples of emulsifiers used in cosmetics include polysorbates,
laureth-4, and potassium cetyl sulfate.

Preservatives
Preservatives are important ingredients. They are added to cosmetics to extend their shelf life and prevent the
growth of microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, which can spoil the product and possibly harm the user.
Since most microbes live in water, the preservatives used need to be water-soluble, and this helps to determine

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which ones are used. Preservatives used in cosmetics can be natural or synthetic (man-made), and perform
differently depending on the formulation of the product. Some will require low levels of around 0.01%, while
other will require levels as high as 5%.

Some of the more popular preservatives include parabens, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, formaldehyde
and tetrasodium EDTA (ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid).

Consumers who purchase ‘preservative-free’ products should be aware of their shorter shelf life and be
conscious of any changes to the look, feel or odour of the product that may indicate it has gone off.

Thickeners
Thickening agents work to give products an appealing consistency. They can come from four different
chemical families:

Lipid thickeners are usually solid at room temperature but can be liquefied and added to cosmetic emulsions.
They work by imparting their natural thickness to the formula. Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearic acid
and carnauba wax.

Naturally derived thickeners come, as the name suggests, from nature. They are polymers that absorb water,
causing them to swell up and increase the viscosity of a product. Examples include hydroxyethyl cellulose,
guar gum, xanthan gum and gelatin. Cosmetics with a consistency that is too thick can be diluted with
solvents such as water or alcohol.

Mineral thickeners are also natural, and as with the naturally derived thickeners mentioned above, they
absorb water and oils to increase viscosity, but give a different result to the final emulsion than the gums.
Popular mineral thickeners include magnesium aluminium silicate, silica and bentonite.
The final group are the synthetic thickeners. They are often used in lotion and cream products. The most
common synthetic thickener is carbomer, an acrylic acid polymer that is water-swellable and can be used to
form clear gels. Other examples include cetyl palmitate, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate.

Emollient
Emollients soften the skin by preventing water loss. They are used in a wide range of lipsticks, lotions and
cosmetics. A number of different natural and synthetic chemicals work as emollients, including beeswax, olive
oil, coconut oil and lanolin, as well as petrolatum (petroleum jelly), mineral oil, glycerine, zinc oxide, butyl
stearate and diglycol laurate.

Colouring agents/pigments
Ruby lips, smoky eyes and rosy cheeks; it is the purpose of many cosmetics to accentuate or alter a person’s
natural colouring. A huge range of substances are used to provide the rainbow of appealing colours you find in
the makeup stand. Mineral ingredients can include iron oxide, mica flakes, manganese, chromium oxide and
coal tar. Natural colours can come from plants, such as beet powder, or from animals, like the cochineal insect.
The latter is often used in red lipsticks and referred to on your ingredient list as carmine, cochineal extract or
natural red 4.

Pigments can be split into two main categories: organic, which are carbon-based molecules (i.e. organic in the
chemistry context, not to be confused with the use of the word to promote ‘natural’ or ‘non-synthetic’ or
‘chemical-free’ products) and inorganic which are generally metal oxides (metal + oxygen and often some
other elements too). Inorganic should not be confused with ‘synthetic’ or ‘unnatural’ as most of the inorganic
metal oxide pigments do occur naturally as mineral compounds.

The two most common organic pigments are lakes and toners. The lake pigments are made by combining a
dye colour with an insoluble substance like alumina hydrate. This causes the dye to become insoluble in water,
making it suitable for cosmetics where water-resistant or waterproof properties are desired.
A toner pigment is an organic pigment that has not been combined with any other substance.

The inorganic metal oxide pigments are usually duller than the organic pigments, but are more resistant to
heat and light, providing a longer-lasting colour.

Glimmer and shine

Shimmering effects can be created via a range of materials. Some of the most common ones are mica and
bismuth oxychloride.

Cosmetic mica typically comes from muscovite (KAl2(AlSi3O10)(F,OH)2) also known as white mica. It
naturally forms in flaky sheets and these are crushed up into fine powders. The tiny particles in the powders
refract (bend) light, which creates the shimmering effect common in many cosmetics. Mica coated with
titanium dioxide gives a whitish appearance when looked at straight on, but then produces a range of
iridescent colours when viewed from an angle.

Bismuth oxychloride (BiClO) is used to create a silver grey pearly effect. This compound occurs naturally in
the rare mineral bismoclite, but is usually produced synthetically and so is also known as synthetic pearl.

The size of the particles used to create pearly and shimmering looks affect the degree of glimmer the product
has. The smaller the particle size (15–60 microns, where one micron is one millionth of a meter), the less
lustrous the powder will be, and more coverage it gives. Larger particle sizes, up to 500 microns, give a more
glittery lustre and are more transparent.
 Fragrances
No matter how effective a cosmetic may be, no one will want to use it if it smells unpleasant. Consumer
research indicates that smell is one of the key factors in a consumer’s decision to purchase and/or use a
product.

Chemicals, both natural and synthetic, are added to cosmetics to provide an appealing fragrance. Even
‘unscented’ products may contain masking fragrances to mask the smell of other chemicals.

The term ‘fragrance’ is often a generic term used by manufacturers. A single listing of fragrance on your
product’s ingredient list could represent dozens or even hundreds of unlisted chemical compounds which were
used to create the final individual fragrance.

Manufacturers do not have to list these individual ingredients as fragrance is considered to be a trade secret.

There are over 3,000 chemicals used to formulate the huge range of fragrances used in consumer products
worldwide. A comprehensive list has been published by the fragrance industry. All the ingredients on this list
have passed the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) safety standards for use in commercial products.
However, without knowing which individual ingredients went in to making up the fragrance of a product,
consumers can find it difficult to make informed choices. If consumers are concerned they should look for
fragrance free products and buy from companies that label their products more comprehensively.

Are cosmetics dangerous?

There’s nothing like a bit of controversy to generate some media buzz. For over a decade there have been recurring reports in
both the media and on hundreds of internet sites relating to potentially toxic substances present in cosmetics (lead, mercury,
parabens) and the dangers they pose to the public. Should consumers be worried? Are these claims backed up by reputable,
published scientific research or have the findings been misinterpreted and exaggerated? Let’s take a look …

Parabens
Parabens are a class of chemicals commonly used as preservatives in food, therapeutic and
cosmetic products. They are derived from para-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA), which occurs
naturally in many fruits and vegetables. Parabens come in several forms: methylparaben,
ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben. They are the most widely used
preservative in personal care products. This is because they are incredibly good at doing their
job—keeping your products mould and bacteria free—and are also cost effective.

The use of parabens in cosmetics hit the media in 2004 after a research study conducted by Dr.
Philippa Darbre of the University of Reading in England reported findings that 18 out of 20
breast cancer tissue samples contained parabens. As parabens can weakly mimic the actions of
oestrogen, and as oestrogen can enhance tumour growth, this was thought to be a problem. The
presence of parabens in breast tumours was picked up by the media and presented as evidence
that parabens contribute to breast cancer. This was incorrect.

While the presence of parabens is notable, the study found no direct evidence that they had
caused the cancer or contributed to its growth. Breast tumours have a large blood supply, so it is
likely that any chemical found in the blood stream will be present in the tumour.

In a later statement to the media, Dr. Darbre, referring to her 2004 study, said ‘No claim was
made that the presence of parabens has caused the breast cancers.’There have since been dozens
of studies undertaken around the globe on the safety of parabens, which time and again have
exhaustively demonstrated that parabens are broken down, metabolised and excreted harmlessly
from the body. Currently, both in Australia and internationally, the science community consider
the use of parabens in cosmetics to be safe.
 In response to consumer demand, some companies have begun to manufacture paraben free
products, which consumers can purchase if they are concerned.

Aluminium
Concerns regarding cancer are also linked to the use of aluminium in deodorants and anti-
perspirants. In the early 2000s various news outlets reported apparent links between the use of
antiperspirants containing aluminium and breast cancer. Similar reports connected the use of
such products to the onset of Alzheimer’s disease. These supposed links have never been
scientifically proven despite multiple studies.

Aluminium works to block the sweat ducts to reduce sweating. Some argue that this process
prevents us from releasing toxins, causing them to build up within our lymph glands. However,
breast cancer tumours do not originate in the lymph nodes, they start in the breast, and travel to
the lymph nodes later. Another study found no difference in the concentration of aluminium
between the cancer and the surrounding tissue.

Currently there is no clear link between the use of under-arm products containing aluminium
and breast cancer.

Likewise, studies have shown no relationship between Alzheimer’s disease and

deodorant/antiperspirant use. Every day, humans are exposed to aluminium through food,
packaging, pots and pans, medicine and even air and water. The official position of both the
Alzheimer’s Society (US) and Alzheimer’s Australia is that a link between environmental
aluminium absorption and Alzheimer’s disease seems ‘increasingly unlikely’.

Despite these findings, some manufacturers have begun producing aluminium-free products for
consumers who still hold concerns.
Triclosan
Triclosan was originally developed as an anti-bacterial agent for use in hospitals, primarily as
a surgical scrub. However its usefulness has seen it increasingly added to a wide range of
consumer products including deodorant, soap, toothpaste, cosmetics and general house-hold
cleaning products. Triclosan is also used as a pesticide and can, under certain circumstances,
break down into potentially toxic chemicals such as dioxins.

Triclosan hit the news in 2000 after findings published by the National Academy of Sciences
(US) noted rising levels of the chemical being detected in the environment and its increasingly
broad use in everyday products as concerns.

Studies conducted by scientists at the University of California found that prolonged exposure to
triclosan causes liver fibrosis and cancer in laboratory mice. Other studies have suggested
triclosan can disrupt hormones, impair muscle contraction and reduce bacterial resistance.

Whilst the over-use of triclosan in products warrants further study, Australian experts have
highlighted its value and importance when used correctly and in moderation. Professor of
Dental Science at the University of Queensland, Dr. Laurie Walsh, noted that the chemical has
been proven to fight various conditions such as gingivitis, inflammation and bleeding gums.

In Australia, a full risk assessment conducted by NICNAS found no cause for public concern in
general, though did recommend controls for maximum concentrations of triclosan (0.3%) in
personal care and cosmetic products. At present, cosmetic products containing more than 0.3%
triclosan must clearly carry the word ‘poison’ on the label—not the best marketing strategy for
producers.
The American Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is planning to release an updated report
on Triclosan in 2016, though in the interim consumers may look for triclosan-free products if
they wish.

Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is an organic compound with a wide variety of uses. Although commonly
associated with embalming, it is also used in the manufacture of building materials, textiles,
household cleaning products, plastics, cosmetics and personal care products. It also occurs
naturally in a wide range of foods, for example the humble egg.

Formaldehyde is not typically used in its pure form, but altered slightly and listed under the
name formalin. It works as a preservative to protect products from contamination.

Formaldehyde is classified as a Group 1 carcinogen (known to cause cancer in humans) by the

World Health Organization International Agency for Research on Cancer. It can also cause skin
and sensory irritation and breathing difficulties in people when inhaled, ingested or if it comes
into contact with skin. So why is it still used in everyday products?

As with other chemicals, it is the concentration present in a product that is important. NICNAS
has assessed formaldehyde and set maximum safe limits for its use in cosmetics. Oral products
such as toothpastes may only contain up to 0.1 percent formaldehyde, while nail hardeners can
have up to 5 percent. All other cosmetic products (such as shampoos and straightening
solutions) can have up to 0.2 percent. At these low levels, the use of formaldehyde is deemed to
be safe.

NICNAS has noted that people with particularly sensitive skin may still experience irritation
even at these low concentrations.
In 2010, the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) conducted a survey of
the formaldehyde concentrations of several cosmetic products that resulted in the
voluntary recall of two products that contained unacceptably high concentrations of the
chemical.

Phthalates
Phthalates (pronounced THAL-ates) are another group of chemicals found in some cosmetics
that have been red-flagged by environmental groups. They are generally used to make plastic
products soft and flexible but can also be found in cosmetics like nail polish, hair spray (to make
the products less brittle or stiff) and perfumes.

Phthalates are produced from oil and there are more than 20 types in common use. As the
various phthalates have different chemical structures, toxicity profiles and uses, their safety
should not be generalised as a group, but looked at on an individual basis. Some studies have
indicated that at high, recurring concentrations different phthalates can act as endocrine
disruptors—this means they upset the hormonal balance in the body and can lead to
developmental problems, particularly in males. Other studies have indicated there may be a link
between phthalates and type 2 diabetes.

In response, the European Union and the United States have imposed bans on some types of
phthalates for use in cosmetics. Research conducted in Australia has identified a small level of
risk in relation to one phthalate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate or DEHP, and as a result NICNAS
has prohibited products that contain DEHP above the prescribed level—this generally relates to
children’s toys.

Lead in your lipstick?

News reports detailing levels of lead and other metals in lipsticks are persistent and recurring,
but should consumers be worried? A 2013 study by the University of California Berkley
examined the metal content of 32 different lipsticks. Researchers found traces of aluminium,
manganese (which can cause neurological problems) and titanium in all the products they tested,
while three-quarters of the products contained lead (which affects the nervous system, and can
cause learning disabilities in children). Many of the lipsticks and lip glosses also contained nickel
and cobalt, as well as cadmium and chromium—both known carcinogens.

Why would manufacturers add these ingredients to their products? The answer is—they don’t.
They exist in the products as ‘impurities’, that is, they are present in other ingredients such as
the wax, oils or the mineral pigments used in the formula. Because of the persistent nature of
these substances and the fact they occur in the natural environment, including in water, it is
almost impossible to remove all traces of them.

However don’t throw your lippy away just yet. The presence of these naturally-occurring
elements in lipsticks is not necessarily a problem—the important issue is the level or
concentration. Are the the levels high enough to be considered toxic, or are they low enough to
be deemed safe? Remember, sunlight is also a proven carcinogen (skin cancer)—but you still go
outside and you might even sunbathe. It all comes down to dose.

With the exception of chromium, the study concluded that the metal concentrations were
comfortably within the ‘acceptable daily allowances’ as determined by the researchers via a
comparison with accepted water and air contamination levels. Basically, you will consume more
lead from drinking water than you will from applying lipstick. However, the study did conclude
that further research into the metal content of cosmetic products is necessary, particularly with
respect to chromium.

Sun creams
While sun creams are not officially cosmetics (they are considered to be therapeutics), we will
include them here as their use is so common, particularly in Australia.
Sunscreens play an important role in protecting our skin from the harmful UVA and UVB rays
emitted by the sun. Their use has been proven to help prevent certain skin cancers including
melanomas and basal cell carcinomas.

In recent years there has been some concern about nanoparticles (NP) in sunscreens. This
relates particularly to zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO₂) nanoparticles and their
ability to penetrate the skin to reach cells and the potential toxicity exerted by these chemicals.

The position of the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), based on several published
papers (up to May 2013) as well as reviews of international authorities, is that nano-particles are
safe. ‘Several in vitro and in vivo studies using both animal and human skin have shown that
these NPs do not penetrate the underlying layers of skin, with penetration limited to the
stratum corneum. This suggests that systemic absorption is unlikely.’

A further study published in 2014 found that when exposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles, human
immune cells (called macrophages) effectively absorbed the nanoparticles and broke them
down.

Based on current evidence, neither TiO2 nor ZnO nanoparticles are likely to cause harm when
used as ingredients in sunscreens. There are more risks associated with avoiding suncreams
(sunburn, skin cancers) than there are posed by nanoparticles.
 DO’S AND DON’T’S IN BEAUTY COSMETICS

Christmas is near and it’s time to whip out the red lipstick, tie up your knee-highs, and sip hot cocoa by the bucket. Although
we absolutely adore cozy nights and wrapping up warm, our skin and hair secretly suffer. From dryness to breakouts, there’s
a whole load of ‘meh’ moments that come with the festive season. But, we’re not letting those moments hold us back from our
favorite time of the year, are we? We’ve compiled a list of the top ‘dos’ and absolute ‘do-nots’ to keep you looking and feeling
hot in the cold.

Do’s

Do layer up on moisturizer
Staying in? Moisturize. Going out? Moisturize. Ice on your windshield? Moisturize! The cold, dry air is very
unkind to the natural oils in our skin, so when you’ve got a spare moment, pull a Mrs. Doubtfire and go to town
with the moisturizer. This means you should be moisturizing every morning and night, onto cleansed skin. Look
for a moisturizer that has hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and emollients. For more deets
on finding the perfect moisturizer, read our ultimate moisturizer guide here. Remember to moisturize your
body too, seriously, layer it EVERYWHERE.

Do avoid sugar
This may be easier said than done at this time of the year when everyone’s baking up goodies, and you spend
about 80% of your time ogling the treats in the kitchen. However, overdoing the sugar intake leads to some
pretty nasty things due to a process called glycation. Glycation is where digested sugar latches onto the collagen
in your skin and essentially eats away at it. So, where you can this season, maybe stick to just one serving of
pumpkin pie?

Do have a cold shower – or a cold rinse at least

Cold showers during winter may have you thinking “hell no!” but it’s actually really great for both your skin and
your hair. Hot water tends to dry out our hair and skin, whereas cold water tightens your follicles and pores.
Plus, it’s fantastic for your circulation, which is a common issue during the colder months. Can’t handle an entire
cold shower? Finish off a hot one with a cold rinse.

Do change your beauty routine for the weather!

What worked for you in summer may not work in winter, but you’ll probably have figured that one out when you
put your sequin hot-pants into storage. So, you may have to put the products that made you radiant in the heat
to one side and find a routine that works for winter. The lightweight moisturizer you were using in summer
needs to be swapped for something thicker, and your cleanser may have to go a little gentler. Check out how
we changed up our routine for winter here.

Do invest in a humidifier
Although the weather outside is frightful, that doesn’t mean the weather inside has to be. Be your very own
weather girl and add some humidity into your home. Humidifiers replace the moisture that can cause tightness,
dryness and even flaking. Have your humidifier on while you sleep when your skin is in its regenerative state,
and you’ll wake up hydrated and soft. It’s basically like having a facial while you sleep!

Do hit the gym

Apart from being able to tuck into a whole lot of grub guilt-free, going to the gym helps keep you happy. A lot of
us are emotionally affected in the winter months, by a condition called SAD (seasonal affective disorder.) This
means that the dark, gloomy weather can make us feel depressed, lethargic, and even anxious. Going to the gym
releases endorphins, which are happy hormones that kick negative chemicals to the curb. We like to schedule a
workout with our gal pals – group workouts make it SO much more fun, plus you get to gossip once you’re done!

Don’ts:
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 Don’t skip sunscreen
We can’t always see it, but it’s always there – if the sun’s out, you need to protect your skin. During particularly
snowy days, the sun can reflect off the snow which can even cause pretty nasty sunburn! Remember to always
wear sunscreen and make sure your makeup products contain SPF; your skin will thank you for it when you’re
older. Check out our fave sunscreens here.

Don’t panic over pimples

New Year’s Eve with your partner, family get-togethers with that annoying cousin who is unnecessarily
competitive, there’s so much you want to look extra hot for. But, you’ve woken up the morning of with a
pimple… The cardinal rule is: Absolutely. DO. NOT. PANIC. We all tend to go a little bit overboard, grabbing
everything we can find to kill the beast, but over-applying can aggravate the situation. Instead, stick to your
normal routine and try a simple remedy like these to stop that sucker. Then, remember: it’s just a pimple –
everyone has them, and actually, no one cares but you! You’re perfect just the way you are; remember it.

Don’t lick your lips

Licking your dry lips may provide temporary relief, but really, you’re actually just making it worse long-term.
Our saliva contains digestive enzymes that break down the skin on your lips (ew) and leave them feeling dry as
well as exposed to the elements. Get yourself a new bestie in the form of a legendary lip balm (like these), and
unless you’ve come face-to-face with a mountain of your grandma’s famous stuffing, do not lick your lips!

Don’t over-exfoliate
Somewhere between a do and a don’t lies the art of exfoliation. It’s important to exfoliate during the winter
months as our skin tends to flake, but over-exfoliating can do damage. Using a brush or your usual exfoliant,
gently slough away dead skin without applying pressure. Exfoliating is also a great way to get that blood flowing
when you feel like your limbs have turned to ice!

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Preparation
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 Sources

Are Some Cosmetics Promising Too Much?. (2015). U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Retrieved March 31, 2015,
from http://www.fda.gov/downloads/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/UCM439333.pdf
Elsner, P., & Maibach, H.I. (Eds.). (2005). Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs versus Cosmetics (2nd Ed.). New York:
Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. (1938). United States Government. Retrieved January 12, 2015, from
http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/USCODE-2010-title21/pdf/USCODE-2010-title21-chap9-subchapII-sec321.pdf
Regulation of cosmetic chemicals: Final report and recommendations. (2005). Commonwealth of Australia. Retrieved July 24, 2009,
from https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/consult-cosmetics-regulation-050303.pdf
Stehlin, D. (1991).Cosmetic Safety: More Complex than at First Blush. U. S. Food and Drug Administration.
T.A., & Joss A. (Eds.). (2006). Human pharmaceuticals, hormones and fragrances : the challenge of micropollutants in urban
water management. London: IWA Publishing.
Taylor& Francis. Johri, L.M., & Sahasakmontri, K. (1998). Green marketing of cosmetics and toiletries in Thailand. Journal of
Consumer Marketing, 15 (3), 265-281.
The rules governing cosmetic products in the European Union. (1999). European Commission. Retrieved January 12, 2015,
from http://www.leffingwell.com/cosmetics/vol_1en.pdf
Winter R. (2005). A Consumers dictionary of cosmetic ingredients (6th. ed.). New York: Three Rivers Press.
ACTIVITY
List down at least 15 cosmetic products you have at home. Identify its use as well as the chemicals/compounds/ingredients that we have
discussed. Use the space provided.