M. Sc.

Chemistry / Pharmaceutical Chemistry

Semester-II
Paper-Value Added
The Unit-I covers basic concept of Cosmetics. Classification of cosmetic products for skin, hair
and oral care. Forms of cosmetics and their suitable examples: Solutions, creams, lotions,
ointment, paste, gels, sticks, tablets, capsules, powders and aerosols.

Basic concept of Cosmetics

 The term cosmetics have been derived from the term “COSMETIKOS” which means the
skill to decorate. Thus cosmetics is the art of decorating yourself to look beautiful.
 Cosmetic is a Greek word which means to 'adorn' (addition of something decorative to a
person or a thing).
 Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural
sources, or synthetically created ones.
 It may be defined as a substance which comes in contact with various parts of the human
body like skin, hair, nail, lips, teeth, and mucous membranes etc,
 Cosmetic substances help in improving or changing the outward show of the body and also
masks the odour of the body.
 It protects the skin and keeps it in good condition.
 In general, cosmetics are external preparations which are applied on the external parts the
body.
 Cosmetics can also be designed to add fragrance to the body.
 In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) defines cosmetics as
products which "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's
structure or functions".
 Cosmetic products are an important element in human society. The use of cosmetics has
implications of health hazards also therefore, modern cosmetic technology is in search of
naturally-derived cosmetics.
 Cosmetics products have been applied to the human body by being rubbed, poured,
sprinkled, or sprayed.
 Cosmetics composed of synthetic and semi-synthetic polymers, which are not
associated with natural polymers. They exhibit a dashing design, with thermal and chemo-
sensitive properties.
 Polysaccharide-based polymers are readily available from common natural sources. They
have been used from centuries, they have healing properties and they are nontoxic and
noncarcinogenic also.

 Cosmetic polymers are also used for the preparation of nanoparticles.

 Silicone based cosmetics products are the most abundantly used in cosmetic products.
 Protein-based cosmetics are well known from great ancient civilizations.
 Vitamins based cosmetics are essential for healthy skin and hair. Vitamins A, D, E and K
are used in cosmetics
 Nanomaterial based cosmetics: The stability and improved sensory characteristics in
cosmetic products have been provided by nanomaterials
 Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products having some specific therapeutic effects. In the
cosmeceutical industry, nanotechnology has huge potential because the nanoparticles can
easily reach the targeted tissue by passing the skin.
 Nanoparticles are commonly used in cosmetics industry for improving the properties of
different products and formulations
Few Examples of nanoparticles used in cosmetics
 Lipid nanoparticles are being explored to treat skin ailments such as eczema,
psoriasis, and inflammations.
 ZnO and TiO2 nanomaterials have been incorporated into sunscreen products since
they behave as UV filters.

 Gold and silver nanoparticles are used in body creams and lotions to give the skin
a fresher appearance. Silver nanoparticles are used in deodorants, toothpastes,
soaps, lip products, wet wipes, and face creams.

 Treatment of tooth sensitivity also utilizes a nanomaterial, namely, nanoscale

calcium phosphate (apatite) which is applied at the base of the sensitive tooth. The
apatite produces a thin layer similar to enamel, thus providing relief from sensitivity
and pain.
 Moisturizers and skin cleansers containing nanomaterials such as liposomes and
nano emulsions are used for enhancing the skin penetration. Skin is the soft outer
tissue that is covered with a hydrolipid film that provides a natural defense against
pathogenic organisms.
Properties of good Cosmetics: A good cosmetics should have the following
properties-
 All the raw materials used should be of highest quality and they should be
standardized for their qualities.
 All water used in cosmetics should be distilled or purified water.
 The color used should be the permitted color.
 The perfumes used should be compatible with other ingredients of the preparation.
 They should be tolerated all conditions particularly extreme of temperature and
humidity condition to which they are likely to encountered in the market.
 They should be economic.

Uses of cosmetics

1. They are used as a cleansing, moisturizing and beautifying agent.

2. They help in enhancing attractiveness of the body.
3. They help in altering the appearance of the body without affecting its
functions
4. Sunscreen products help in protecting the body from UV rays and
treating sunburns.
5. Acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes and other skin imperfections are
treated or repaired by treatment products.
6. Cosmetics help in treating skin infection.
 Classification of cosmetics
Generally cosmetics can be classified in the following way-
1) According to the part of the body on which they are used.
2) According to their function
3) According to their uses
4) According to their physical nature

1) According to the part of the body on which they are used.

1. Skin care products
2. Hair care products
3. Nail care products
4. Hygiene care products

2) According to the function, cosmetics are classified into the following groups-
i. Decorative function (Example; Lipstick, Nail polish etc.)
ii. Corrective function (Example; Dry cream and heavy face powder)
iii. Protective function (Example; Dry cream and heavy face powder)
iv. Curative function (Example; antiperspirant, hair preparation etc.)
3) According to their uses, Cosmetics are again subdivided into the following classes-
a) For the skin (Example: Powder, Cream, Lotion, Deodorant, Bath and cleansing preparation, Make up
etc.)
b) For the Hair (Example: Shampoo, Hair tonic, Hair dressing, Shaving preparation, etc.)
c) For the nails (Example: Nail polish, Nail conditioner, Polish remover etc.)
d) For the teeth and mouth (Dentifrices, Mouth washes etc.)
e) Border line products (Example: Foot powder, Insect repellants, Eye products etc.)
4) According to their physical nature, cosmetics can be classified into the following ways-
i. Sprays (Example: Perfumes, after shaving spray, hair spray etc.)
ii. Emulsions (Example: cold cream, liquid cream etc.)
iii. Jellies (Example: Hand jelly, hair jelly et
iv. Mucilage (Example: Hand lotion, body lotion etc.)
 v. Oils (Example: Hair oils, body oils etc.)
vi. Cakes (Example: rough compacts or face powder)
vii. Paste (Example: toothpaste, Deodorant paste)
viii. Powder (Example: Talcum powder, tooth powder
ix. Soaps (Shaving soap, toilet soap etc.)
x. Solution (Example: After shave lotion, astringent lotion etc.)
xi. Sticks (Example: Lipsticks, deodorant sticks etc.)
xii. Suspension (Example: Liquid powder, cosmetics etc.)
Classification based on world market of cosmetics

Types of Makeup

Makeup can be classified into three categories:

1. Every day: everyday products worn to enhance natural appearance
2. Medical: used for covering scars or reducing the visibility of rashes
3. Theatrical also called television, film and stage makeup, which actors and actresses use
so their features look better in bright or harsh stage lights.
 CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
These products are made to improve the appearance & feel of the skin. 30% of the
cosmetics are skincare products, this is the largest share of the category. These can be
further classified by how they work & what they do.
First, products left behind on the skin. These are moisturizing products that are designed
to improve the feel & look of the skin. Anti-aging products help in getting rid of aging skin
(fine lines & wrinkles). These tanners change the color of the skin. There are over-the-
counter products that protect from sun, treat acne & reduce wrinkles.
Other types of skin products are designed to remove things from the skin; body wash, hand
soaps, facial washes, toner & more are included. These are made to remove the hair from
the skin.
CLASSIFICATION OF ORAL COSMATICS OR DENTAL CARE OR
DENTIFRICES PRODUCTS
Classification depending on Dental Problems.
I. Products for carries control.
a. Systemic fluoride
b. Topical fluoride
i. Dentifrices
ii. Gel
iii. Rinses
iv Miscellaneous
II. Products for plaque control.
a. Chemical agents
i. Dentifrices: further classified into two types-
a) Cosmetic dentifrices
b) Therapeutic dentifrices
ii. Mouth washes
b. Mechanical products
i. Tooth brushes
 ii. Dental floss
iii. Other aids to plaque removal.
III. Products for tooth surface hypersensitivity.
IV. Topical anesthetic.
V. Halitosis

Classification of Hair Cosmetics

The various components of hair at the molecular level regulate the efficacy of various hair
cosmetic products, allowing their classification as follows:
Category 1: Those that work on the exocuticle
Category 2: Those that work on the cortex or alter the structural integrity of the hair shaft.
Category 1: These hair cosmetics include
i. shampoos
ii. conditioners further classified into
a) Leave-in conditioners
b) Deep conditioners
c) Anti-hair loss conditioners
iii. serums
iv. hair sprays
v. waxes
vi. gels
vii. mousses
Category 2: These include hair cosmetics that work on the cortex or alter the structural
integrity of the hair shaft and include
i. hair colors further classified into five category
a) Temporary hair dyes
b) Semi-permanent dye
c) Permanent dye
d) Vegetable dyes
e) Herbal dyes
ii. bleaching agents
iii. straightening
iv. perming agents
Forms of cosmetics: (Solutions, creams, lotions, ointment/paste, gels, sticks, tablets
/ capsules, powders and aerosols).
While there are literally thousands of different types of cosmetic products, there are actually only
10 different types of cosmetic formulas.

The basic categories for cosmetic formulas include

1. Solutions
2. Creams / Emulsions
3. Lotions
4. Ointments / Pastes
5. Suspensions
6. Tablets
7. Powders
8. Gels
9. Sticks
10. Aerosols

1. Solution Cosmetics

These are the simplest type of cosmetic formulas and are used for a wide range of products
such as shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers, colognes, etc.

They are homogeneous mixtures of soluble ingredients.

Formulation: These are prepared by simply filling the containers with main diluent
(usually water) and mixing with the other ingredients to create the resultant cosmetic
product. Examples: shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers, mascaras, eye liners, colognes.

2. Creams / Emulsions

The majority of cosmetics use raw materials that are not compatible so a cream or emulsion
is used.

These are pseudo stable mixtures of immiscible liquids dispersed in another liquid.
Cosmetics like hand moisturizers, make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens, etc. are all
examples of creams or emulsions.
 Creams are semi-solid emulsions of oil and water. They are divided into two types: oil-in-
water (O/W) creams which are composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous
water phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are composed of small droplets of water
dispersed in a continuous oily phase.
Oil-in-water creams are more comfortable and cosmetically acceptable as they are less
greasy and more easily washed off using water. Water-in-oil creams are more difficult
to handle but many drugs which are incorporated into creamsare hydrophobic
and will be released more readily from a water-in-oil cream than an oil-in-water cream.
Formulation: Creams and emulsions are prepared by combining three formula
components, such as oil phase, aqueous phase and an emulsifier. The formulas are made
by heating up the oil and water phases separately, mixing them together (along with the
emulsifier) when they are hot, and cooling them down with thorough mixing. The result is
a cream with tiny particles of dispersed in the diluent phase.

3. Lotions

Lotions are less greasy and lighter counterparts of creams that come in handy for
applications, wherein creams cannot be used

Lotions are essentially thin creams.

They are used for facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners, and moisturizing
cleansers.
Formulation: Lotions are basically thin creams that undergo the same production
procedure as that of creams. Moreover, they can easily be applied without worrying about
them getting thick as opposed to emulsions that get thick on cooling down.
A few examples of lotion cosmetics include facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners
and moisturizing cleansers
Leave-in hair conditioners which are also called no-rinse or leave-on conditioners, are
used after you wash your hair and before you style it. Unlike traditional conditioners,
they're not washed out. Leave-in products provide extra moisture to the hair, protect it from
damage, and help detangle the strands.
Examples: Garnier Whole Blends Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter Smoothing Leave-In Conditioner
Ouai Leave-In Conditioner

4. Suspensions

Suspensions are another product form for delivering incompatible ingredients.

Unlike creams, they are typically clear products with visible particles like gelatin beads or
inorganic minerals (e.g titanium dioxide) suspended throughout.

They are used for sunscreens, hand washes or shampoos.

Formulation: They are prepared by polymer or clay that gives the formula some internal
suspending structure. Ingredients like carbomer or bentonite clays are useful.

5. Ointments / Pastes

Ointments or pastes are extremely thick products used for dressing hair and cleaning skin.
They are, generally, anhydrous (contain no water), sticky and greasy.

Ointments are one of many semisolid preparations, which also include creams, pastes, and
jellies.
Ointments are used topically for several purposes, e.g., as protectants, antiseptics,
emollients, antipruritic, keratolytic, and astringents.
In the case of a protective ointment, it serves to protect the skin against moisture, air, sun
rays and other external factors.
It is necessary that the ointment neither penetrates the human skin barriers nor facilitates
the absorption of substances through this barrier.
An antiseptic ointment is used to destroy or inhibit the growth of bacteria. Frequently
bacterial infections are deeply seated; a base which has the capacity to either penetrate or
dissolve and release the medication effectively is therefore desired paste, gels, sticks,
tablets, capsules, powders and aerosols

Formulation: Making them is a simple matter of heating up the raw materials and rapidly
mixing them until they are dispersed. The anhydrous (contain no water) and sticky &
greasy used. Some common ingredients used to create pastes include petrolatum, lanolin,
or dimethicone.
6. Tablets & Capsules

 Another product form that is often used for creating color cosmetics is the tablet. These are
physically blended solids that are held together by being pressed into shape.

 Color cosmetics are, generally, found in the form of cakes, tablets or capsules.
 Examples : Compact powder, eye shadow, cheek shadow cakes, etc.
 A compact (also powder box, powder case and flapjack) is a cosmetic product. It is
usually a small round metal case and contains two or more of the following: a mirror,
pressed or loose face powder with a gauze sifterand a powder puff.

Formulation: They are also generally more expensive. The solid ingredients areblended
well with one another and pressed to get the desired shape. They are usually more
expensive as they require special equipment for creating them.

7. Powders

i. One of the most common types of product forms for color cosmetics is powders.

ii. Powders are also used for products like baby powder & foot powder.

iii. Powders are the most common and popular form of cosmetic products.
iv. Face powder is a cosmetic product applied to the face to serve different functions, typically
to beautify the face.
v. Face powders generally come in two main types. One of which is loose powder, which is
used to assist with oily skin in absorbing excess moisture and mattifying the face to reduce
shininess. The other is compressed powder which conceals blemishes and maximises
coverage

Formulation: They are formed by mixtures of solid raw materials blended together into a
fine powder. Some typical ingredients include talc, silicates, and starch. Special equipment
is needed when making these products as the fine powder can be dangerous. They are an
amalgamation of solid raw materials which are ground together to get a fine powder.

8. Gels

i. Another common form of cosmetic products is gels.

ii. Gels are defined as a substantially dilute cross-linked system, which exhibits no flow when
in the steady- state.
iii. A gel has been defined phenomenologically as a soft, solid or solid-like material consisting
of two or more components, one of which is a liquid, present in substantial quantity

iv. These are thick products, typically clear, and have a property known as “shear thinning”.
This means they stay thick until you apply a force which makes them thin and flowable.

v. Gels are used for hair products, body washes, shaving products, and in toothpaste. Common
examples of gels include hair products, body washes, shaving products and toothpastes.

vi. Hair gel is a hairstyling product that is used to harden hair into a particular hairstyle.

Formulation: They are made by using a gelling agent such as an acrylic polymer, a natural
gum or a cellulosic thickener.

9. Sticks

 Sticks enter the cosmetic product list when consumers look out for cosmetics that they
would not want to touch, say, lipstick, Stick foundation and underarm deodorant.
 Lipstick is a cosmetic that applies color, texture, and protection to the lips.

 Sticks are solid delivery forms that deliver active ingredients through a rubbing action
Formulation: These are usually manufactured by heating, melting, mixing and pouring
solid ingredients into a mold or final container, thereby allowing them to cool until they
take the desired shape. The prepared by materials that are solid at room temperature. The
ingredients are heated until they melt, mixed, and poured into either a mold or the final
container. When they cool, they take the shape of their packaging.

10. Aerosols

a) Aerosols are more of a packaging product form than a specific formulation type.

b) In physicochemical terms, an aerosol is a colloid state in which very fine particles of a solid
or liquid are dispersed in a gas.

c) The insecticides and hairsprays are aerosols in the original sense, but the word aerosol is
also applied as a blanket term to any product in which a liquid or solid is discharged from
a pressure-resistant container using the pressure of a gas. As they are very functional,
aerosols are widely used for cosmetics.

Formulation: Aerosols are any cosmetic delivered from a pressurized can. They are
composed of a concentrate and a propellant