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Brother Ce 1008 Manual

This document provides important safety instructions and an overview of a sewing machine. It instructs users to read the manual before use and keep it nearby for reference. Key safety tips include unplugging the machine when not in use, keeping ventilation openings clear, and keeping fingers away from moving parts. Children should be supervised when using the machine. The manual also outlines proper use and maintenance to maximize the machine's service life.

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Jamie Collom
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© © All Rights Reserved
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
848 views104 pages

Brother Ce 1008 Manual

This document provides important safety instructions and an overview of a sewing machine. It instructs users to read the manual before use and keep it nearby for reference. Key safety tips include unplugging the machine when not in use, keeping ventilation openings clear, and keeping fingers away from moving parts. Children should be supervised when using the machine. The manual also outlines proper use and maintenance to maximize the machine's service life.

Uploaded by

Jamie Collom
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 104

Operation Manual KNOWING YOUR

SEWING MACHINE
Sewing Machine
Product Code: 888-V60/V61/V62/V63/V64/V65
SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.


We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS


Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:


1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Electrical Hazards:
• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the
rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of
power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.
• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.

4 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other
part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise
you may injure your back or knees.

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5 Always keep your work area clear:


• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise
the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

6 Special care is required when sewing:


• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the
needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
7 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or
disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.

8 For a longer service life:


• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

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9 For repair or adjustment:


• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS


This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES


This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES


This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be
made by children without supervision.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND


CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

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CONTENTS

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................... 1

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................6


ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................6
Included accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 6
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 7
Accessory compartment ................................................................................................................................... 7
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .................................................... 8
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 8
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 9
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 9
Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 10
Spool pin ........................................................................................................................................................ 10
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...................................................................................12
Power supply precautions .............................................................................................................................. 12
Power supply .................................................................................................................................................. 12
Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 13
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... 13
Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 13
Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 14
Cancelling the operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) ............................................. 14
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................ 15
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 15
Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 20
Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 23
Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 28
REPLACING THE NEEDLE ................................................................................................. 29
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 29
Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 29
Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 30
Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 30
Sewing with the twin needle ........................................................................................................................... 32
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ...................................................................................... 34
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 34
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 35

2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................36


SEWING ............................................................................................................................ 36
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 36
Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 37
Adjusting the stitch length and width .............................................................................................................. 38
Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 39
Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... 41
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ...................................................................................................... 42
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 42
Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 42
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 42
Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 42
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... 43
Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 44
Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 44
Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................................................................................................................. 44

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3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................45


OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................ 45
Using zigzag foot ............................................................................................................................................ 45
Using overcasting foot .................................................................................................................................... 46
BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................ 47
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 47
BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................................................. 48
BUTTONHOLE SEWING ................................................................................................... 51
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 55
ZIPPER INSERTION ........................................................................................................... 57
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................ 59
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 59
Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 59
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................ 61
Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 62
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 62
Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 62
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 63
Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 64
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING ......................................................................................... 66
Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 66
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 66
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................ 68
Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 69
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 70
Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 70
Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 71
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 71
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 72

4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................73
STITCH SETTINGS ............................................................................................................. 73
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 73
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................ 80
Restrictions on oiling ...................................................................................................................................... 80
Precautions on storing the machine ............................................................................................................... 80
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 80
Cleaning the race ........................................................................................................................................... 80
TROUBLESHOOTING ....................................................................................................... 83
Frequent troubleshooting topics ..................................................................................................................... 83
Upper thread tightened up ............................................................................................................................. 83
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .......................................................................................................... 84
Incorrect thread tension ................................................................................................................................. 87
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ............................................................................... 88
List of symptoms ............................................................................................................................................ 92
ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................ 97
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 97
INDEX ............................................................................................................................... 98

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1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE


ACCESSORIES

Included accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your dealer.

Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 888-V60/V61/V62/V63/V64/V65. The
product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.
● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

75/11 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
100/16 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
16. 17. 18. 19.

Part Code Part Code


No. Part Name No. Part Name
Americas Others Americas Others
1 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 11 Twin needle 131096-121
2 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033
12 Ball point needle XD0360-021
3 Overcasting foot “G” XE6305-101 (gold colored)
4 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 13 Cleaning brush X59476-051
5 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 14 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-031 15 Spool cap (large) 130012-024
16 Spool
7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001 cap (medium)
XE1372-001
(on machine)
8 Seam ripper XF4967-001
17 Spool cap (small) 130013-124
9 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB:
18 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
(One is on machine.) XA5539-151
10 Needle set XC8834-021 19 Foot controller XD0501-021 (EU area)
XC8816-021 (Other areas)

Memo
● About zigzag foot “J”;
Press the black button on the left side of the foot when it is difficult for thick seams
to be fed, for example, at the beginning of sewing thick fabrics. (page 43)
aBlack button

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Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you
purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 1

Part Code Part Code


No. Part Name No. Part Name
Americas Others Americas Others
1 Walking Foot SA140 F033N: F016N:
XC2214-002 4 Quilting guide SA132 XC2215-002
F005N: 5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001
2 Quilting Foot SA129 XC1948-002
3 1/4-Inch Quilting Foot SA125 F001N:
XC1944-052

Accessory compartment
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. Slide the flat bed attachment to the
left to open it.

Note
● Put the accessories in the bag, and then
store the bag inside the compartment. If the
accessories are not in a bag, they may fall
out, and be lost or damaged.

a Flat bed attachment


b Storage compartment

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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS


The illustrations in this operation manual may differ from the actual machine.

The main parts

a Bobbin winder (page 15) k Air vent


This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
lower thread. circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
b Upper tension-control dial (page 41) machine is being used.
This controls the tension of the upper thread. l Main power and sewing light switch (page 12)
c Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disc You can turn the main power and sewing light switch
(page 15) on and off.
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the m Jack/socket connector (page 12)
pretension disc when winding the bobbin thread. Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/
d Thread take-up lever (page 25) socket connector.
e Thread cutter (page 40) n Foot controller (page 13)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
f Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment start and stop sewing.
(page 7 and 44) o Foot controller jack/socket (page 13)
g Operation buttons (page 9) Plug in the foot controller plug.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing p Feed dog position lever (page 55 and 65)
machine model. Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.
h Operation panel (page 10) q Presser foot lever (page 23)
This is used to select the stitch and specify the various This is used to raise and lower the presser foot.
settings. Design and position of the operation panel r Thread guide (page 16 and 25)
differs depending on the sewing machine model. This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin
i Spool pin (page 10, 15 and 23) and then threading the machine.
This holds the spool of thread. s Thread guide cover (page 17 and 23)
j Handwheel Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
This is used to manually raise and lower the needle. the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
t Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.

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Needle and presser foot section


e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching. 1
f Needle plate cover release
Use when removing the needle plate cover.
g Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the race.
h Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
i Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-
set bobbin)
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
j Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
a Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle k Needle plate
threader) (page 26) The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
b Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes l Needle bar thread guide
and bar tacks. Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
c Presser foot holder m Presser foot lever
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder. Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser n Needle clamp screw
foot holder in place. Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button c Needle position button (for models equipped with
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew the needle position button)
reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
the button pressed down to sew in the opposite needle. Be sure to raise the needle before threading the
direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement needle. Use this button to change the sewing direction
stitches” (page 40). or for detailed sewing in small areas. Pressing the button
twice sews one stitch.
■ Buttons provided on some models
d Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the
b Start/stop button (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller)
start/stop button) Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The speed.
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39).

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Operation panel Spool pin


The operation panel, located on the front of the As shown, press down on the spool pin lever with
sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and your finger to raise the spool pin.
specify how the stitch will be sewn.
The operation panel differs depending on the sewing
machine model.

CAUTION
● Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

■ Storing the spool cap


The enclosed spool cap (large, medium, small)
can be stored by attaching it to the spool pin as
shown in the illustration. When attaching the
spool cap, position it with the rounded side
toward the spool pin.

a LCD (liquid crystal display)


The number of the selected stitch (1), the presser foot
type to be used (2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the
stitch width (mm) (4) are displayed here.
The display location (2) of the presser foot type differs
depending on the model.
This manual shows, as an example, the LCD (illustration
above) of models where the presser foot type appears
above the number of the selected stitch.
b Stitch selection keys
Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the
number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37).
c Stitch length adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–”
side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side to
increase the stitch length.)
d Stitch width adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–”
side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side to
increase the stitch width.)

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■ Storing the spool pin ■ Installing the spool pin


When placing the cover on the sewing machine
before storing or if the spool pin will not be used, If the spool pin has been removed from the
return the spool pin to its storage position. a machine, insert the tab on the spool pin into
Remove the spool from the spool pin, and then the hole on the back of the machine, as
fold up the spool pin, as shown in the illustration,
until it snaps into place to secure it.
shown. 1

a Hole
b Tab

b place.
Push the spool pin down until it locks into

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USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions


Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in
fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power
supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms

CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire
or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from
the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

c switch to “{”.
To turn off the machine, set the main power
Power supply
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
Insert the plug into a wall outlet. machine is turned off.
a

Note
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
1 2 machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
a Main power switch
b Jack/socket connector (For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
b
Set the main power switch to “I”.
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
X The sewing lamp comes on when the not modify the plug in any way.
machine is turned on.

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Foot controller Sewing speed controller


Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on
(for models equipped with
the rear side of the sewing machine. the start/stop button)
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or 1
a right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Foot controller jack/socket

CAUTION
● When connecting the foot controller, be sure a Sewing speed controller
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
• The speed set using the sewing speed
prevent the machine from accidentally being
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
started.
sewing speed.
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
Changing the needle stop position
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in
will stop. the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can
be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

Turn off the sewing machine.


Slower a

Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the
foot controller when the machine is not in use.

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection


b
CAUTION
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.
up on the foot controller. Doing so could After turning on the sewing machine, release
cause a fire or an electric shock. the “–” side of (stitch selection key).

Note
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
X The needle stop position changes to the
raised position.

Memo
• Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered position.

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Changing the initial needle Cancelling the operation beep


position (for models equipped with the
Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is
operation beep)
automatically selected when the sewing machine is When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
turned on. The machine can be set so that the beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be
straight stitch (center needle position) is changed so that the machine does not beep.
automatically selected when it is turned on.

a
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch width


Hold down the “+” side of (stitch selection b adjustment key) and turn on the sewing
b key) on the left and turn on the sewing
machine.
machine. After turning on the sewing machine, release
After turning on the sewing machine, release the “-” side of (stitch width adjustment
the “+” side of (stitch selection key). key).

X The initial needle position changes to


X The machine is now set so that it will
the center needle position.
not beep.
Memo
Memo
● The specified initial needle position is
● Perform the same operation to change the
maintained even after the machine is turned
setting so that machine beeps.
off.
● Perform the same operation to change the
initial needle position to the left needle
position.

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THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin 1


This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 18.

a Bobbin-winding
thread guide
b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin

CAUTION
● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing
machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the
machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the
same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

As shown, press down on the spool pin lever Remove the spool cap.
a with your finger. b
X The spool pin swings up.

a Spool pin
b Spool cap

CAUTION
CAUTION ● Be sure to raise the spool pin when winding
the bobbin. The thread may become tangled if
● Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,
the bobbin winder is used without raising the
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.
spool pin.

15
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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———
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Fully insert the spool of thread for the bobbin


c onto the spool pin. Memo
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is ● When sewing with fine, cross-wound
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a
at the bottom. small space between the cap and the spool.

c b

a Spool cap (small)


b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
d With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap
While holding the spool with your right hand,
e and then pass the thread under the thread
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right
so that the spool is moved to the right end of guide.
the spool pin.

a Thread guide
CAUTION
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
f from the back to the front.
● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the machine may be Hold the thread with your right hand so that
damaged. there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
● Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing and then pass the thread under the thread
you to choose a spool cap that best fits the guide cover with your left hand.
size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread may
catch on the slit in the spool or the machine
may be damaged.

a Thread guide cover

16
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Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the


g hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and
CAUTION
then wind the thread counterclockwise
between the discs, pulling it in as far as ● Pull the thread taut and hold the end of the
possible. thread straight up. If the thread is too short,
not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries
may occur when the thread is wound around
1
the bobbin.

Turn on the sewing machine.


i

j press the foot controller or press


While holding the end of the thread, gently
(start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to wind the thread around
a Bobbin-winding thread guide
the bobbin a few times. Then stop the
machine.
Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk. Note
● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
b Hook
c Pretension disk
d Pull it in as far as possible.

Note
● Make sure that the thread is pulled as far as
possible into the pretension disk, otherwise
the bobbin may not be wound cleanly.

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.


Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft k • Leave 1 cm (3/8 inch) of thread from the
h and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
hole on the bobbin.
Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the
spring on the shaft slides into the notch in the
bobbin.
• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (2-3/4 to
3-15/16 inches) of thread from the hole on 1
the bobbin.

a 1 cm (3/8 inch)

CAUTION
● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the thread
a Spring on the shaft completely, and the bobbin is wound, when
b Notch
c 7-10 cm (2-3/4 – 3-15/16 inches)
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.

17
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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Slide the sewing speed controller to the right


l (to set the speed to fast). (For models CAUTION
equipped with the sewing speed controller.)
● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.

a Sewing speed controller

Press the foot controller or press (start/ 1 2


m stop button) (for models equipped with the a Wound evenly
start/stop button) to start. b Wound poorly

■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin


winding system

a so that the spring on the shaft fits into the


Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft

notch in the bobbin.

When the bobbin seems full and begins


n spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller or press (start/stop button) (for
models equipped with the start/stop button).

o to the left and remove the bobbin.


Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its


p original position (for models equipped with
b
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
the sewing speed controller).

Memo
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will Follow steps a through g of the procedure
make a clicking sound; this is not a c in “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread
malfunction. around the pre-tension disk (page 15).
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. While holding the thread that wraps around the
d pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your
right hand to wind the free end of the thread
clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

18
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Pull the thread to the right and pass it through Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
e the slit in the bobbin winder seat. j to the left, and then remove the bobbin from
the shaft.

1
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

CAUTION
k original position (for models equipped with
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the
bobbin is wound without cutting the thread
the sewing speed controller).
using the cutter built into the slit in the
bobbin winder seat, the thread may become
tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend CAUTION
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run
out. ● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
f (to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).

1 2
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly

a Sewing speed controller Memo


● When the sewing machine is started or the
Turn on the sewing machine. handwheel is turned after winding the
g thread around the bobbin, the machine will
Press the foot controller or press (start/ make a clicking sound; this is not a
h stop button) (for models equipped with the malfunction.
start/stop button) to start. ● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

Note
● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).

When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take


i your foot off the foot controller or press
(start/stop button) (for models equipped with
the start/stop button).

19
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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Raise the needle to its highest position by turning


a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
Lower threading
press (needle position button) (for models
Install the bobbin wound with thread. equipped with the needle position button), and
• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 21. raise the presser foot lever.

CAUTION Turn off the sewing machine.


b
● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.

Slide the button and open the cover.


c
1 2

1 2
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly a Cover
● The bobbin was designed specifically for this b Slide button
sewing machine. If bobbins from other
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in
d the direction shown by the arrow.
models are used, the machine will not operate
correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,
SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

CAUTION
● Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally
step on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.

Memo
● The direction for feeding the bobbin thread
is indicated by marks on the needle plate
cover. Be sure to thread the machine as CAUTION
indicated.
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

20
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Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
e down with your finger, and then pass the a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
thread through the slit, as shown. press (needle position button) (for models
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through equipped with the needle position button), and
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin raise the presser foot lever.
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 41). Turn off the sewing machine.
1
b

Slide the button and open the cover.


c
1 2

a Cover
b Slide button

1 Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that the


d end of the thread is on the left, and then, after
a Tension-adjusting spring
pulling the thread firmly around the tab with your
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in left hand as shown, lightly pull the thread to
f place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on guide it through the slit.
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.

• Replace the cover so that the end of the


thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

Memo
● The direction for feeding the bobbin thread
is indicated by marks on the needle plate
cover. Be sure to thread the machine as a Tab
indicated.
CAUTION
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

21
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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———
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While lightly holding down the bobbin with Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
e your right hand as shown, guide the thread f place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
through the slit (a and b). the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
• At this time, check that the bobbin easily clicks into place.
rotates counterclockwise.
Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (c).

Memo
● You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want
to draw up the bobbin thread before you
start to sew, follow to the procedure in
“Drawing up the lower thread” (page 28).
a Slit
b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

Note
● If the thread is not correctly inserted
through the tension-adjusting spring of the
bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread
tension (page 41).

1
a Tension-adjusting spring

22
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Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
• For details on the needle threader, see page 26.
1

a Spool pin
b Mark on the handwheel

CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct,
the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
● Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
● Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of
needles and threads, refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page 29).

Turn on the sewing machine. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
a c toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up, or press
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
b lever. (needle position button) (for models equipped
with the needle position button) once or twice
to raise the needle.

or

a Presser foot lever

CAUTION
● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing a Mark b Needle position button
machine cannot be threaded correctly. • If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded. Be
sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark
on the wheel points up before threading the
sewing machine.

23
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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As shown, press down on the spool pin lever Fully insert the spool for the upper thread
d with your finger. f onto the spool pin.
X The spool pin swings up. Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.

CAUTION
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
● Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin, g With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
Remove the spool cap. onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right
e so that the spool is moved to the right end of
the spool pin.

a Spool pin
b Spool cap

CAUTION
● Be sure to raise the spool pin before use. If the
spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set CAUTION
incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the
spool pin and cause the needle to break. ● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you
to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of
spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for
the spool being used, the thread may catch on
the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

24
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Feed the upper thread as shown in the


Memo j illustration below.
● When sewing with fine, cross-wound
thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a
small space between the cap and the spool.

b
1
c

a Spool cap (small)


b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space

h and then pass the thread under the thread


While holding the spool with your right hand,

guide.

k thread take-up lever from right to left as


Make sure you guide the thread through the

shown in the illustration below.

a Thread guide
a Thread take-up lever
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
i from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that Memo
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled ● If the needle is not raised, the thread take-
out, and then pass the thread under the thread up lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to
guide cover with your left hand. press the needle position button to raise the
needle before threading the thread take-up
lever.

a Thread guide cover

25
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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————
———
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread


l guide above the needle.
Note
The thread can easily be passed behind the ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise
your right hand. the presser foot lever and the thread take-up
lever before you feed the upper thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
1
■ Using the needle threader (for models
equipped with the needle threader)

CAUTION
a Needle bar thread guide ● The needle threader can be used with a 75/11
through 100/16 home sewing machine
needle. However, the needle threader cannot
be used with a 65/9 home sewing machine
needle. When using special thread such as
transparent nylon thread or metallic thread,
the needle threader cannot be used.
● Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
● The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to
“Upper threading” (page 23).
Turn off the sewing machine.
m Follow steps a through m of the procedure
a in “Upper threading” to thread the machine

CAUTION to the needle bar thread guide.

● Make sure you turn the power off while Lower the presser foot lever.
threading the machine without using the b
needle threader (for models equipped with
the needle threader). If you accidentally step While lowering the needle threader lever,
on the foot controller and the machine starts c hook the thread onto the guide.
to sew, you could be injured.

Thread the needle from front to back and pull


n out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread.

a Needle holder
b Needle threader lever
c Guide
a 5 cm (2 inches)

26
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Fully lower the needle threader lever. Pull the loop of the thread passed through the
d g eye of the needle toward the rear of the
machine.

X The end of the needle threader rotates a Loop of thread


toward you and the hook passes
through the eye of the needle. CAUTION
● Be careful not to pull on the thread with force
e
Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.
or it may bend the needle.
● If the thread does not pass through the eye of
the needle, start from step c again.

Raise the presser foot lever.


h

a Hook
b Thread

f needle threader lever. The hook will pull the


While lightly holding the thread, release the
a Presser foot lever
thread through the needle.
Pass the end of the thread through the presser
i foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches)
of thread toward the rear of the machine.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

Note
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.

27
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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————
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Drawing up the lower thread

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both
a d threads and pull them toward the back of the
machine under the presser foot.

a Upper thread

b raise the needle either by turning the


While holding the end of the upper thread,
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so
that the mark on the wheel points up or by ■ For models equipped with the quick-set
pressing (needle position button) (for bobbin
models equipped with the needle position You can begin sewing immediately without
button) once or twice. drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing
gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower
thread by hand so that some thread will be left
over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.
or Pass the thread along the slit in the direction
a of the arrow, and leave it there without
cutting it.

a Mark b Needle position button

c thread.
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower • The bobbin cover should still be removed.

Draw up the lower thread as described in


b steps 1 to 4.

Replace the bobbin cover.


c

a Upper thread
b Lower thread

28
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REPLACING THE NEEDLE


This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions 1
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Needle types and their uses


The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Thread
Fabric Type/Application Size of Needle
Type Size
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Medium weight 60–90
fabrics Taffeta Synthetic thread 75/11–90/14
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
60–90
Thin fabrics Georgette Synthetic thread 65/9–75/11
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
30 100/16
Denim Cotton thread
50
Thick fabrics
Corduroy Synthetic thread 90/14–100/16
50–60
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey Ball point needle
Stretch fabrics Thread for knits 50–60 75/11–90/14
Tricot (gold colored)
Cotton thread
50–90
Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread 65/9–90/14
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread 30 100/16
For top-stitching
Silk thread 50–60 75/11–90/14

Note
● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.

Memo
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the
needle.

29
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Ball point needle ■ Incorrect needle


Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch If the distance between the needle and the flat
fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
occur. a bent needle.
Use the ball point needle for best results when
sewing patterns using monogramming foot “N”.
The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR”
(Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT”
130/705H SUK 90/14 may be used as a substitute.
1
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the a Flat surface
fabric or thread.

CAUTION Replacing the needle


Replace the needle as described below. Use the
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
disc-shaped screwdriver and a needle that has been
combinations are shown in the table on the
determined to be straight according to the
previous page. If the combination of the
instructions in “Checking the needle”.
fabric, thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
75/11), the needle may bend or break. In
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
addition, the stitching may be uneven or
equipped with (needle position button),
puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
or
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.

1
a Mark b Needle position button
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
b

a Flat side
b Needle type marking
■ Correct needle CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn
off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the foot controller or the start/
stop button is accidentally pressed and the
1 machine starts sewing.

a Flat surface

30
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Lower the presser foot lever. With the flat side of the needle toward the
c e rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.

1
a Presser foot lever

CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric or
paper under the presser foot to prevent the
a Needle stopper
needle from falling into the hole in the needle
While holding the needle with your left hand,
f use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten the
plate.

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.
d use a disc-shaped screwdriver to turn the
needle clamp screw counterclockwise to
remove the needle.

Note
● The needle can be removed by simply
loosening the needle clamp screw about
one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is Install the twin needle in the same way.
loosened too much, the needle clamp
(which holds the needle) may fall off.
Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp
screw too much.)

CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches
the needle stopper and securely tighten the
needle clamp screw with the disc-shaped
a Disc-shaped screwdriver screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break
b Needle clamp screw or damage may result.
• Do not apply strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.

31
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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————
———
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Sewing with the twin needle


We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 73).

a Twin needle b Extra spool pin

CAUTION
● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles
could break, and damage the machine.
● Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.
● You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,
from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or
the machine may be damaged.
● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.

a • For details on installing a needle, refer to d bobbin winder shaft.


Install the twin needle. Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the

“Replacing the needle” (page 30).


a Bobbin winder shaft
Thread the upper thread for the left needle.
b • For details, refer to steps a through l of
b Extra spool pin
c Thread spool
“Upper threading” (page 23).
Manually thread the left needle with the
c upper thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front to the back.

Install the thread spool and thread the upper


e thread.

Memo
● When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the
spool.

32
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Thread the upper thread for the right side in Select a stitch.
f the same way that the upper thread for the j • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
left side was threaded. “Selecting a stitch” (page 37).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH
SETTINGS” (page 73).
1
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
a Thread guide cover (counterclockwise) and check that the needle
• For details, refer to step a through l of does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
“Upper threading” (page 23). hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
Without passing the thread through the
g needle bar thread guide, manually thread the Start sewing.
k For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting
right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle to sew” (page 39).
from the front to the back. X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel
to each other.

h • For details on changing the presser foot, refer


Attach zigzag foot “J”.

to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 34).


Note
Note ● When using the twin needle, the stitches
Models equipped with a needle threader may become bunched together, depending
● You cannot use the needle threader to on the types of thread and fabric that are
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the used. If this occurs, increase the stitch
twin needle by hand, from front to back. length. For details on adjusting the stitch
Using the needle threader may damage the length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length
machine. and width” (page 38).

CAUTION CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach ● When changing the sewing direction, be sure
zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may to raise the needle from the fabric, and then
break or the machine may be damaged. raise the presser foot lever and turn the
Turn on the sewing machine. fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the
i machine may be damaged.
● Do not try turning the fabric with the twin
needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.

33
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT

CAUTION
● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the
controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser
foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet
may cause an accident or injury.

Press the black button at the back of the


d presser foot holder to release the presser foot.
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

a Black button
b Presser foot holder

or Place a different presser foot below the holder


e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
shank in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to
a Mark b Needle position button be read.

If the sewing machine has been turned on,


b turn it off.

CAUTION a Presser foot holder


b Shank
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to c Pin
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the foot controller or the
start/stop button is accidentally pressed and Note
the machine starts sewing. ● The presser foot to be used with each stitch
appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer
Raise the presser foot lever. to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37).
c

a Presser foot lever

34
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Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to loosen the
f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the b presser foot holder screw.
presser foot holder.

a Disc-shaped screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a left side of the presser bar.

a Presser foot lever


b Presser foot holder
c Shank
d Pin
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
g presser foot is securely attached.
a Presser foot holder
b Presser bar

Hold the presser foot holder in place with your


b right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the disc-shaped screwdriver in your left hand.

Removing the presser foot


holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
a Disc-shaped screwdriver
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the b Presser foot holder
quilting foot. Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to c Presser foot holder screw
remove the presser foot holder.

a
Remove the presser foot.
Note
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
foot” (page 34). installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot
holder screw, otherwise the presser foot
holder may fall off and the needle may strike
it, causing the needle to bend or break.

35
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your
hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may
break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

General sewing procedure


Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

Turn on the Turn on the sewing machine.


1 machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Power supply” (page 12).

2 Select the stitch. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37).

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.


3 Attach the presser For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot. foot” (page 34).

Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
4 Start sewing. threads.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 39).

36
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Attach the presser foot indicated in the LCD.


c The display location of the presser foot type
Selecting a stitch
differs depending on the model.
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired This manual shows, as an example, the LCD
stitch. (illustration above) of models where the presser
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight foot type appears above the number of the
stitch ( left needle position) is selected. selected stitch.

a
Turn on the sewing machine.

a Presser foot type


Press (stitch selection keys). The
b
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 34).
number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Memo
Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or ● The presser foot to be used is indicated by
the letter (J, A, etc.) that appears above or
reduce the number by one. Pressing on the beside the stitch number.
right changes the digit on the right and pressing

If necessary, adjust the stitch length and


d width.
on the left changes the digit on the left.

• For details on sewing with each of the utility


stitches, refer to the following example.

X The stitch is selected.

37
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch width


c adjustment key) to increase or reduce the
Adjusting the stitch length
stitch width.
and width
■ [Example] Selecting stitch .

a
Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 04.
With on the right, select “4”, and with
a Stitch width
on the left, select “0”. b Stitch width adjustment key
c Narrow
d Wide

Note
● When the stitch length or stitch width is
changed from the standard setting,
Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch around or disappears from the LCD.
b length adjustment key) to increase or reduce When the stitch length or stitch width is
the stitch length. reset back to the standard setting,
reappears around or in the LCD.

CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
a Stitch length the handwheel toward you
b Stitch length adjustment key
c Short (counterclockwise) and check that the needle
d Long does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
● If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may result in the
needle bending or breaking.

38
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While holding the end of the thread and the


d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
Starting to sew
toward you (counterclockwise) with your
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel right hand to lower the needle to the starting
a toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark point of the stitching.
on the wheel points up. (With models equipped
with (needle position button), raise the
needle by pressing once or twice.)

2
or

e
Lower the presser foot lever.

a Mark b Needle position button

b
Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

f controller, slide the sewing speed controller


On models equipped with a sewing speed

to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed.


a Presser foot lever Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models
equipped with the start/stop button)”
Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass (page 13).
c the thread under the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread
toward the rear of the machine.

a Sewing speed controller

Slowly press down on the foot controller.


g (With models equipped with (start/stop
a 5 cm (2 inches)
button), if the foot controller is not connected,
press once.)

or

aStart/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.

39
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Take your foot off the foot controller, or press ■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
h (start/stop button) once (if the machine When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
was started by pressing (start/stop button)) stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
(for models equipped with the start/stop pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
button). sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top
X The machine stops sewing. of each other.

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel


i toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)
This procedure is not necessary if the a Reverse stitching
needle stop position has been set to the b Reinforcement stitching
raised position (page 13).

Raise the presser foot lever. Memo


j ● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, is selected. For details, refer to “STITCH
k and then pass the threads upward from below SETTINGS” (page 73).
through the thread cutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

Memo
● When the foot controller is plugged in, start/
stop button cannot be used to start sewing
(for models equipped with the start/stop
button).
● When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needles stay up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 13).

40
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Thread tension Memo


● When you finish sewing, remove the
The thread tension will affect the quality of your bobbin cover and then make sure that the
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change thread is shown as below. If the thread is
fabric or thread.
not shown as below, the thread is not
inserted through the tension-adjusting
Memo spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert
● We recommend that you do a test sample the thread correctly. For details, refer to
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
page 20, 21.

■ Correct tension
2
Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.
1

a Wrong side
2 b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
3
4
■ Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric. ■ Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

Note
● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly Note
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. ● If the upper thread was incorrectly
In this case, refer to “Lower threading” threaded, the upper thread may be too
(page 20) and rethread the bobbin thread. loose. In this case, refer to “Upper
threading” (page 23) and rethread the upper
thread.
1
a Wrong side
5
b Surface 1
2 c Upper thread
d Lower thread a Wrong side
e Loops appear on b Surface
c Upper thread
3 5
surface of fabric 2
d Lower thread
4 e Loops appear on
wrong side of
Solution 3 fabric
Reduce the tension by turning the upper 4
tension-control dial to a lower number. Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
5 4 3
tension-control dial to a higher number.

5 4 3

41
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

USEFUL SEWING TIPS


Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
c sewing.
Trial sewing
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is Sewing curves
selected.
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
direction to sew around the curve.
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
Changing the sewing a finer stitch.
direction

a sewing machine.
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the


needle was raised, lower the needle either by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle
position button) once (for models equipped
with the needle position button).
Sewing thick fabrics
CAUTION ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
● When using the twin needle, be sure to raise If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
the needle before changing the sewing foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
direction. If the fabric is turned while the bring the presser foot to its highest position.
needle is lowered, the needle may bend or
break.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the


b fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

42
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■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does


not feed at the beginning of stitching
The fabric may not feed when thick seams are CAUTION
being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
shown below. In this case, use the presser foot
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag
force, the needle may bend or break.
foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level
while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed
smoothly.
Sewing hook-and-loop
fastener 2
CAUTION
● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
a Sewing direction fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is
attached to the needle or the bobbin hook
Raise the presser foot lever.
a
race, it may cause malfunction.
● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the
Align the beginning of stitching, and then
b position the fabric.
thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may
bend or break.
While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the
c presser foot locking pin (black button on the
Note
left side) pressed in, and lower the presser
● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
foot lever.
and the hook-and-loop fastener.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-


and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and
lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook-
and-loop fastener at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-
loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for
thick fabrics (page 29).

a Presser foot locking pin (black button)

d button).
Release the presser foot locking pin (black

X The presser foot remains level, allowing


the fabric to be fed.
a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener

• After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will


return to its original angle.

43
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing thin fabrics Stitching cylindrical pieces


When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material hard-to-reach areas.
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.

a release it.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
paper.

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics


a Flat bed attachment
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
X With the flat bed attachment removed,
free-arm sewing is possible.
• When sewing cylindrical pieces, follow the
next step.

Note
● When you are finished with free-arm
a Basting sewing, install the flat bed attachment back
in its original position.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the


b arm, and then sew from the top.

44
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3 UTILITY STITCHES
OVERCASTING STITCHES
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also
useful for sewing stretch materials.

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
Walking Foot
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

Stitch Name Application


100 stitches

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

Overcasting and attach-


3.5 (1/8) 1.4 (1/16) ** *
3
Zigzag stitch J 04 04 04 04 04 04 04 0.0–7.0 0.0–4.0 Yes Rev.
ing appliqués ( J ) Yes
(0–1/4) (0–3/16)
Overcasting on medium 5.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) **
3-point zig- weight or stretch fab-
zag stitch J 05 05 05 05 05 05 05 rics, attaching elastic, 1.5–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(1/16–1/4) (1/64–3/16) (J)
darning, etc.
3.5 (1/8) 2.0 (1/16)
Overcasting on thin or
G 06 06 06 06 06 06 06 medium weight fabrics 2.5–5.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
(3/32–3/16) (1/16–3/16)

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32)


Overcasting on thick
G 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 2.5–5.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
fabrics
(3/32–3/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **
Overcasting on stretch
J 08 08 08 08 08 08 08 0.0–7.0 0.5–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
fabrics (J)
(0–1/4) (1/32–3/16)

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **


Overcasting on thick or
J 09 09 09 - - - - stretch fabrics 0.0–7.0 0.5–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/32–3/16) (J)

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

c
Sew with the edge of the fabric.
Using zigzag foot
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a

Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 37).
a Needle drop point

45
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Using overcasting foot

a
Attach overcasting foot “G”.

Select stitch or .
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 37).

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric


c against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.

a Guide

d (counterclockwise) and check that the needle


Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

does not touch the presser foot.

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the


e presser foot guide.

a Needle drop point

CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

a Check that the needle does not touch the


presser foot.

46
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BASIC STITCHING
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

Stitch Name Application


100 stitches

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) **


Basic stitching, sewing *
Left J 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 Yes Rev.
gathers or pintucks, etc. Yes
(J)
Straight

(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

Attaching zippers, basic 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) ** *


Center J 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 stitching, and sewing Yes Rev.
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16) (J) Yes
3
Attaching sleeves, sew- 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) **
Triple ing inseams, sewing
stretch stitch J 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 stretch fabrics and deco- 0.0–7.0 1.5–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)
rative stitching
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.


f
Basic stitching
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 39).
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c
Select a stitch.
■ Changing the needle position
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
(page 37). the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
d beginning of the stitching.
adjustment key moves the needle to the right;
pressing the “–” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the left.
Start sewing.
e
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 39).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 40). a Stitch width
b Stitch width adjustment key
c Left needle position
d Right needle position

47
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BLIND HEM STITCHING


You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application
90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

mod
Manual Manual

0 (0) 2.0 (1/16)


Blind hem stitching on
R 10 10 10 09 09 09 09 1.0–3.5 No No Rfc.
medium weight fabrics -3← →3
(1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
2.0 (1/16)
Blind hem stitching on 0 (0)
R 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 1.0–3.5 No No Rfc.
stretch fabrics -3← →3 (1/16–1/8)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Memo
● When selecting stitch or . Stitch numbers “0”, “-1”, “-2” or “-3” may be displayed on the LCD by
pressing “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the
left. Stitch numbers “0”, “1”, “2” or “3” may be displayed on the LCD by pressing “+” side of the stitch
width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the right.
● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the
fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.

a b hem, and press.


Reverse the skirt or pants. Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

2
a Wrong side of fabric
1 4 b Right side of Fabric
2 c Edge of fabric
3 4 d Desired edge of hem
a Wrong side of fabric 1
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric 1 3 2
d Bottom side <Thick fabric>

1 2
<Normal fabric>
3

<Seen from the side>

48
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Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
c (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and i arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly,
then baste it. and then start sewing.

5 6 a Wrong side of fabric


3 b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Desired edge of hem
4 e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
1 2 f Basting

1 2
<Thick fabric>
a Arm
1 2
<Normal fabric>
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
<Seen from the side> j hem against the guide of the presser foot, and

d
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. then lower the presser foot lever.
3
a Wrong side of fabric
3 5 b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
4 6
d Desired edge of hem R
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
2 f Basting
1 g Basting point

1
7 <Thick fabric>
1 a Wrong side of fabric
<Normal fabric> b Fold of hem
c Guide
<Seen from the side>
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
k slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
e fabric with the wrong side facing up.

a Wrong side of fabric


b Right side of fabric R

4 c Edge of fabric
3
d Desired edge of hem
1 e Basting point 1
1 f Basting
6 1
1 a Needle drop point
5 <Thick fabric>
When you change the needle drop point, raise
2 the needle, and then change the stitch width.
1 <Normal fabric>
Stitch width
<Seen from the side>

Attach blind hem foot “R”.


f
Select a stitch.
g
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
h free-arm sewing possible.

• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to


“Stitching cylindrical pieces” (page 44). a Thick fabric
b Normal fabric

49
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold, If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust
adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width
stitch width adjustment key. adjustment key.

<Thick fabric> <Thick fabric>

<Normal fabric> <Normal fabric>

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width,


refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 37).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
l presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching and turn the


m fabric right side up.

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

50
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.

Walking Foot
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Reverse (Rev.)/
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application
90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

Horizontal buttonholes 5.0 (3/16) 0.5 (1/32) *


A 34 34 34 29 29 29 25 on thin and medium 3.0-5.0 0.2-1.0 No No Auto
weight fabrics (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

Secured buttoholes for 5.0 (3/16) 0.5 (1/32) *


A 35 35 35 30 30 30 26 fabrics that have back- 3.0–5.0 0.2–1.0 No No Auto
ings (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

A 36 36 36 31 31 31 27 Buttonholes for stretch or


6.0 (15/64) 1.0 (1/16)
3.0–6.0 0.5–2.0 No No Auto
* 3
knit fabrics
(1/8-15/64) (1/32-1/16) Rfc.

6.0 (15/64) 1.5 (1/16) *


28 Buttonholes
for stretch
A 37 37 37 32 32 32 3.0–6.0 1.0–3.0 No No Auto
fabrics
(1/8-15/64) (1/16-1/8) Rfc.
Buttonhole
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.0 (1/16) *
A 38 38 38 – – – – Bound buttonholes 0.0–6.0 0.2–4.0 No No Auto
(0–15/64) (1/64-3/16) Rfc.

7.0 (1/4) 0.5 (1/32) *


29 Keyhole
buttonholes for
A 39 39 39 33 33 33 thick or furry fabrics 3.0–7.0 0.3–1.0 No No Auto
(1/8-1/4) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 (1/4) 0.5 (1/32) *


A 40 40 40 34 34 – – medium weight and thick 3.0–7.0 0.3–1.0 No No Auto
fabrics (1/8-1/4) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

7.0 (1/4) 0.5 (1/32) *


Keyhole buttonholes for
A 41 41 41 35 35 – – 3.0–7.0 0.3–1.0 No No Auto
thick or furry fabrics Rfc.
(1/8-1/4) (1/64-1/16)

Appliqué quilting, free- 3.5 (1/8) 1.4 (1/16)


Zigzag stitch
J 46 46 46 40 40 – – motion quilting, satin 0.0–7.0 0.0-4.0 No Yes
(for quilting) stitching, button sewing (0–1/4) (0-3/16) Rfc.

*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

1 1

1
a Reinforcement stitching

51
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
1 plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

5 1

3
2
4 3

A
a Presser foot scale
a Button guide plate b Length of buttonhole
b Presser foot scale (Diameter + thickness of button)
c Pin c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch) Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
Use chalk to mark the position and length of the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
a the buttonhole on the fabric. (1 inch) on the scale.
2 1
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

d
Select a stitch.
a Marks on fabric
b Buttonhole sewing

e in the presser foot.


Pass the upper thread down through the hole
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
b foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
A

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

52
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Position the fabric with the front end of the Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
f buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks h your left hand, and then start sewing.
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1

A
2 Note
● If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot does not feed, sew with the coarser (longer)
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push stitch.
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct X Once sewing is completed, the 3
size. machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,


i remove the fabric, and cut the thread.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original


j position.

a Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as


g possible.

a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

53
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
k stitching to prevent the stitching from being When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards gimp thread.
the pin and open the buttonhole.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
a buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
2
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.

a Seam ripper
b Pin
For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial
eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded
end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam
ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.


b
1

c
Select a stitch or .

a Eyelet punch
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick d gimp thread.
paper or some other protective sheet under
Lower the presser foot lever and the
e buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.

CAUTION
f thread to remove any slack.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam


ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam
ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any
other way than how it is intended.

Memo
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
length and width by sewing a trial g thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. then tie it.

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the


h gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

54
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Place a button between the presser foot and


d the fabric.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the


a button to be attached.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew


the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
b feed dog position lever, located at the rear of
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
and then sew them in the same way.
the machine on the base, to (to the right
as seen from the front of the machine).
3

Select a stitch . (With models not provided


e
with stitch , select stitch .)

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as


f the distance between the holes in the button.

Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by


g pressing the stitch length adjustment key.

a Feed dog position lever


(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach presser foot “M”.


c

1
a Button fitting foot “M”

55
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Turn the handwheel toward you


h (counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the
button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch the button, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.

Start sewing.
i
• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) to sew reinforcement stitches.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the


j stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

When you are finished attaching the button,


k slide the feed dog position lever to (to
the left as seen from the front of the machine)
and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is


positioned at .

56
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

ZIPPER INSERTION
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of
the needle.
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches

Stitch Name Application


90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

Straight Attaching zippers, basic 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) **


*
stitch I 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 stitching, and sewing 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 Yes Rev.
(center) gathers or pintucks, etc. (J) Yes
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
3
CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a d wrong side of the fabric with an iron, align the


Attach zigzag foot “J”. Open the seam allowance, press it from the

center of the zipper with the stitching, and

b sides facing each other.


Place the two pieces of fabric with their right then baste the zipper in place.

c opening, and then sew reverse stitches at the


Sew basic stitches to the end of the zipper

end of the stitching.


• Use basting stitching to sew the zipper
opening (where the zipper will be inserted).

a Wrong side of fabric

a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
• Refer to “Basic stitching” on page 47.

b Wrong side of fabric


c Basting stitching
d Zipper

57
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Attach the presser foot holder to the right side


e of the pin on zipper foot “I”. Memo
● If the presser foot contacts the zipper slider,
leave the needle lowered (in the fabric) and
raise the presser foot. After moving the
I slider so it will not contact the presser foot,
lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
● To sew with the zipper on the left side of the
presser foot, attach the presser foot holder
to the left side of the pin on zipper foot “I”
in step e.
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point

f
Select stitch .
I

CAUTION
● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the
needle does not hit the presser foot before
you start sewing. If you choose a different a Left side of the pin
stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and b Needle drop point
break the needle. You may also be injured.

When you have finished sewing, remove the


h basting stitching.
With the right side of the fabric facing up,
g continue sewing with the zipper on the right
side of the presser foot.

a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening

Sew the stitching in order, from a to c.

CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper
during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper,
the needle may break and you may be injured.

58
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE


Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application
90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model
mode

mode

mode
Manual Manual

1.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32)


Sewing stretch fabrics Yes
Stretch stitch J 03 03 03 03 03 03 03 1.0–3.0 1.0–4.0 No Rfc.
and decorative stitching (J)
(1/16–1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting on medium 5.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) *
3-point weight or stretch fabrics,
zigzag stitch J 05 05 05 05 05 05 05 attaching elastic, darn- 1.5–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(1/16–1/4) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Elastic-
ing, etc.

Attaching elastic to
4.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) *
3
attaching J 21 21 21 - - - - 0.0-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
stretch fabrics
stitch (0-1/4) (1/64-3/16) (J)

*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching Elastic attaching


When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
b
Select stitch . that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a fabric.
c
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.

a Elastic tape
b Pin

Attach zigzag foot “J”.


b

Select a stitch.
c

59
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while


d stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.

60
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————————————————

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING


The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches

Stitch Name 90 stitches Application

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model
mode

mode

mode
Manual Manual

3.5 (1/8) 1.4 (1/16) **


Overcasting and attach- *
Zigzag stitch J 04 04 04 04 04 04 04 0.0–7.0 0.0–4.0 Yes Rev.
ing appliqués Yes
(0–1/4) (0–3/16) (J)

Appliqué quilting, free- 3.5 (1/8) 1.4 (1/16)


Zigzag stitch
(for quilting) J 46 46 46 40 40 - - motion quilting, satin 0.0–7.0 0.0–4.0 No Yes Rfc.
stitching (0–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)
(0–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)
3
**
Appliqué
stitch J 12 12 12 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching 2.5–7.0 1.6–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(3/32–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)

1.5 (1/16) 1.8 (1/16)


Attaching appliqués and
J 47 47 47 41 41 - - 0.5–3.5 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
binding
Appliqué (1/32–1/8) (1/16–3/16)
stitch
(for quilting) 1.5 (1/16) 1.8 (1/16)
Attaching appliqués and
J 48 48 48 42 42 - - 0.5–3.5 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
binding
(1/32–1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Piecing straight stitching 5.5 (7/32) 2.0 (1/16)
(with a seam allowance
J 43 43 43 37 37 - - 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 No Yes Rfc.
of 6.5mm from the right
Piecing edge of the presser foot) (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
straight
stitch Piecing straight stitching 1.5 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16)
(with a seam allowance
J 44 44 44 38 38 - - of 6.5mm from the left 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 No Yes Rfc.
edge of the presser foot) (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

4.0 (3/16) 1.2 (1/16) **


14 Patchwork
stitching and
J 15 15 15 14 14 14 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching (J)
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
Patchwork stitching, dec-
orative stitching and sew- 5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **
Joining stitch J 16 16 16 15 15 15 15 ing overcasting on both 2.5–7.0 1.0–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
pieces of fabrics, such as (3/32–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)
with tricot
5.0 (3/16) 1.2 (1/16) **
J 17 17 17 16 16 16 16 Patchwork stitching and 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16) (J)

0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32)


Hand-look J 45 45 45 39 39 35 31 Straight stitch quilting No No Rfc.
quilting that looks hand-sewn 0.0–7.0 1.0–4.0
(0–1/4) (1/16–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


Quilting Quilting background
J 49 49 49 43 43 - - 1.0–7.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
stippling stitching (stippling)
(1/16–1/4) (1/16–3/16)

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

61
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Remove the basting, if necessary.


e
Appliqués
You can create an appliqué by cutting a different
piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a Memo
decoration. ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of stitching.
a
Baste the cut design to the fabric.

CAUTION
CAUTION
● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin
● If glue is used to hold the cut design in place
during sewing, as the needle can break. You
on the fabric, do not apply glue to areas that
may also be injured.
will be sewn with the machine. If glue is
attached to the needle or race, the machine
may be damaged. Patchwork (crazy quilt)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
stitching
b
a place it over the lower piece.
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

Select stitch .
c Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
b pattern spans both pieces.
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
d needle dropping off the edge at the right.

Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the


a fabric that you wish to piece together.
a Appliqué fabric
b Needle drop point

b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c
Select stitch or .

62
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
d with the edge of the fabric. b holder.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side


• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
foot holder” (page 35).
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
1
c onto the needle clamp screw, lower the
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

presser foot lever, and then use the presser


foot holder screw to attach the walking foot
to the presser bar.

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)


■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
3
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
1
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
c Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION
● Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten
the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) needle may strike the presser foot and cause
injury.
Memo ● Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
● To change the width of the seam allowance
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
For details, refer to “Changing the needle
position” (page 47).
Select stitch , or .
d

Quilting Place one hand on each side of the presser


e foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily sewing.
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.

Note
● Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the
walking foot.

Note
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
a
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.

63
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Using the optional quilting guide


Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that Free-motion quilting
are equally spaced.
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.

a hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser


Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the

foot holder.
† Walking foot

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot


a holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser


foot holder” (page 35).
† Presser foot holder
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
b of the presser bar.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.

b the guide aligns with the seam that has


Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that

already been sewn.

a Pin on quilting foot


b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right


c hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the disc-shaped screwdriver in
your left hand.

a Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with
the disc-shaped screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot, causing it
to bend or break.

64
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the


d rear of the machine on the base, to (to
the right as seen from the front of the machine).

3
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a


e stitch.

Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then


f move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.

a Pattern

g position lever to
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog
(to the left as seen from
the front of the machine) and turn the
handwheel to raise the dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is


positioned at .

65
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches

Stitch Name Application


90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

Attaching sleeves, sew- 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) **


Triple ing inseams, sewing
J 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 0.0-7.0 1.5-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
stretch stitch stretch fabrics and deco-
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)
rative stitching
Reinforcing openings 2.0 (1/16) 0.4 (1/64) *
Bar tack
A 42 42 42 36 36 34 30 and areas where the 1.0-3.0 0.3-1.0 No No Auto
stitch seam easily comes loose Rfc.
(1/16-1/8) (1/64-1/16)

*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Determine the desired length of the bar tack.


a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
Triple stretch stitching
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes between the markings on the presser foot scale
and inseams. is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b
Select stitch .

2
3
c
Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”


(page 39). a Presser foot scale
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Bar tack stitching • A bar tack with a maximum length of about
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn.
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
b
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
pocket corners is described below.
Select stitch .
c

66
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————————————————

Position the fabric so that the opening of the Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the e possible.
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.

a Buttonhole lever

1 The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the


bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
3
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size. a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in


f your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the


machine automatically sews
a Do not reduce the gap. reinforcement stitches, then stops.

g remove the fabric, and cut the thread.


Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,

h position.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Selecting a
stitch” (page 37).

67
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Reverse (Rev.)/
Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Stitch Name model Application Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) *


Fagoting, smocking and
J 19 19 19 17 17 17 17 0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching (J)
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
Fagoting
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) *
Fagoting, smocking and
J 20 20 20 18 18 18 18 decorative stitching 2.5-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(3/32-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)

4.0 (3/16) 1.2 (1/16) *


J 15 15 15 14 14 14 14 Patchwork stitching and 0.0-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching
(0-1/4) (1/64-3/16) (J)
Patchwork stitching, deco- 5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32)
Joining stitch rative stitching and sewing *
J 16 16 16 15 15 15 15 overcasting on both pieces 2.5-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
of fabrics, such as with tricot (3/32-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)

5.0 (3/16) 1.2 (1/16) *


16 Patchwork
stitching and
J 17 17 17 16 16 16 decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/64-3/16) (J)

4.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) *


Shell tuck
stitch J 13 13 13 12 12 12 12 Sell tuck stitching 0.0-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/64-3/16) (J)
5.0 (3/16) 1.6 (1/16) *
Smocking Smocking stitching and
stitch J 18 18 18 - - - - decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)
5.0 (3/16) 0.5 (1/32) *
Satin scallop
stitch N 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching 2.5-7.0 0.1-1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(3/32-1/4) (1/64-1/16) (J)
4.0 (3/16) 3.0 (1/8)
J 22 22 22 19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 2.0-4.0 No No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
4.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) *
J 23 23 23 20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)
5.5 (7/32) 1.6 (1/16) *
J 24 24 24 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)
5.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) *
N 25 25 25 22 22 22 21 Decorative stitching and
1.5-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
elastic-attaching
(1/64-1/4) (1/64-3/16) (J)

Lace sewing, decorative 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32)


Decorative N 26 26 26 23 23 23 22 hemming, heirloom 1.5-7.0 1.6-4.0 No No Rfc.
stitch stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
6.0 (15/64) 3.0 (1/8)
N 27 27 27 24 24 24 23 Decorative hemming, 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
heirloom stitching, etc.
(1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming on 5.0 (3/16) 3.5 (1/8)
thin, medium weight and
N 28 28 28 25 25 25 – plain weave fabrics, heir- 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
loom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming on 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16)
24 thin,
medium weight and
N 29 29 29 26 26 26 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming on 5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32)
N 30 30 30 27 27 27 – thin, medium weight and 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

68
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————————————————

Stitch Width Stitch Length

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Pattern No.
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Reverse (Rev.)/
Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Stitch Name Application Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

Decorative hemming on 5.0 (3/16) 2.0 (1/16)


thin, medium weight and
N 31 31 31 28 28 28 – 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

Decorative stitching, 6.0 (15/64) 1.6 (1/16)


Decorative N 32 32 32 – – – – smocking stitching, heir- No No Rfc.
stitch 1.5-7.0 1.0-4.0
loom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

Decorative stitching, 5.0 (3/16) 1.6 (1/16)


N 33 33 33 – – – – smocking stitching, heir- 1.5-7.0 1.0-4.0 No No Rfc.
loom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

CAUTION 3
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

e
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
Fagoting
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It (page 37).
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch Sew with the center of the presser foot
is more decorative when thicker thread is used. f aligned along the center of the two pieces of
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric fabric.
a along their seams.

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by


b about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or
a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
• If you draw a line down the middle of the
thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer,
sewing is easier.

g
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c

Select stitch or .
d

69
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 10 mm


c (3/8 inch).
Scallop stitching
1
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.

Attach monogramming foot “N”.


a

a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
Select stitch .
b • Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or
cut the thread.
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
c sure not to sew directly on the edge of the Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
d Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
fabric.

• For better results, apply spray starch onto the


fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
e
Select stitch or .
sewn.

Trim along the stitches.


d
Stitch between the straight stitches.
f

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

g
Smocking Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

The decorative stitch created by stitching or


embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.


a

Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the


b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”


(page 37) and “Thread tension” (page 41).

70
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————————————————

Shell tuck stitching Joining


The gathers that look like shells are called “shell Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. making a crazy quilt.

a a
Fold the fabric along the bias. Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b of fabric, and then open up the seam


Sew together the right sides of the two pieces

allowances.

1 3
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
1
Select stitch , and then increase the thread
c 3
tension.
a Wrong side of fabric
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
(page 37). c Straight stitch

d slightly off the edge of the fabric.


Sew while making sure that the needle drops Select stitch , or .
c

Turn the fabric over so that the right side


d faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
1
seam.

a Right side of fabric

a Needle drop point

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks


e down to one side.

71
UTILITY STITCHES —————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.

CAUTION
● The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to “Upper
threading” (page 23).

Insert the wing needle.


a

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.


• For details on inserting a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 30).

Attach monogramming foot “N”.


b

Select stitch , , , , , , or .
c

CAUTION
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.

Start sewing.
d

72
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————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

4 APPENDIX
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.

CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be damaged.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.

Utility stitches

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches

Stitch Name Application


90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Auto Auto
model

model

model

model

model

model

model

Manual Manual

0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) **


00 Basic
stitching, sewing *
Left J 00 00 00 00 00 00 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 Yes Rev.
gathers or pintucks, etc. (J) Yes
Straight

(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

Attaching zippers, basic 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) ** *


Center J 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 stitching, and sewing 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 Yes Rev.
gathers or pintucks, etc. (J) Yes
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching sleeves, 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) **
Triple
02 sewing
inseams, sewing
stretch stitch J 02 02 02 02 02 02 stretch fabrics and 0.0–7.0 1.5–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)
decorative stitching
1.0 (1/16) 2.5 (3/32)
Sewing stretch fabrics Yes
Stretch stitch J 03 03 03 03 03 03 03 and decorative stitching 1.0–3.0 1.0–4.0 No Rfc.
(1/16–1/8) (1/16–3/16) (J)

3.5 (1/8) 1.4 (1/16) **


04 Overcasting and
*
Zigzag stitch J 04 04 04 04 04 04 0.0–7.0 0.0–4.0 Yes Rev.
attaching appliqués Yes
(0–1/4) (0–3/16) (J)
Overcasting on medium 5.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) **
3-point zig-
05 weight
or stretch
J 05 05 05 05 05 05 1.5–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
zag stitch fabrics, attaching
(1/16–1/4) (1/64–3/16) (J)
elastic, darning, etc.
3.5 (1/8) 2.0 (1/16)
G 06 06 06 06 06 06 06 Overcasting on thin or
2.5–5.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
medium weight fabrics
(3/32–3/16) (1/16–3/16)

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32)


07 Overcasting
on thick
G 07 07 07 07 07 07 fabrics 2.5–5.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
(3/32–3/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **
08 Overcasting
on stretch
J 08 08 08 08 08 08 0.0–7.0 0.5–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
fabrics
(0–1/4) (1/32–3/16) (J)

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **


Overcasting on thick or
J 09 09 09 - - - - 0.0–7.0 0.5–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
stretch fabrics
(0–1/4) (1/32–3/16) (J)

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

73
APPENDIX ————————————
————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

2.0 (1/16)
Blind hem stitching on 0 (0)
R 10 10 10 09 09 09 09 1.0–3.5 No No Rfc.
medium weight fabrics -3← →3
(1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
2.0 (1/16)
Blind hem stitching on 0 (0)
R 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 1.0–3.5 No No Rfc.
stretch fabrics -3← →3
(1/16–1/8)

3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) **


Appliqué
J 12 12 12 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching 2.5–7.0 1.6–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
stitch
(3/32–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)

4.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **


Shell tuck
stitch J 13 13 13 12 12 12 12 Shell tuck stitching 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16) (J)

5.0 (3/16) 0.5 (1/32) **


Satin scallop
stitch N 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching 2.5-7.0 0.1-1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(3/32-1/4) (1/64-1/16) (J)

4.0 (3/16) 1.2 (1/16) **


14 Patchwork
stitching and
J 15 15 15 14 14 14 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching (J)
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and 5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **
Joining stitch J 16 16 16 15 15 15 15 sewing overcasting on 2.5–7.0 1.0–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
both pieces of fabrics, (3/32–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)
such as with tricot
5.0 (3/16) 1.2 (1/16) **
16 Patchwork
stitching and
J 17 17 17 16 16 16 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16) (J)

5.0 (3/16) 1.6 (1/16) **


Smocking Smocking stitching and
stitch J 18 18 18 - - - - decorative stitching 0.0–7.0 1.0–4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/16–3/16) (J)

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **


J 19 19 19 17 17 17 17 Fagoting, smocking and
0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)
Fagoting
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **
J 20 20 20 18 18 18 18 Fagoting, smocking and
2.5-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
decorative stitching
(3/32-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)

Elastic- 4.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) **


Attaching elastic to
attaching J 21 21 21 - - - - 0.0-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc
stitch stretch fabrics (J)
(0-1/4) (1/64-3/16)

4.0 (3/16) 3.0 (1/8)


J 22 22 22 19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 2.0-4.0 No No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

4.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32) **


J 23 23 23 20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)

5.5 (7/32) 1.6 (1/16) **


J 24 24 24 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching 0.0-7.0 1.0-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0-1/4) (1/16-3/16) (J)
Decorative
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 1.0 (1/16) **
21 Decorative
stitching
N 25 25 25 22 22 22 1.5-7.0 0.2-4.0 Yes No Rfc.
and elastic-attaching
(1/64-1/4) (1/64-3/16) (J)

Lace sewing, decorative 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32)


N 26 26 26 23 23 23 22 hemming, heirloom 1.5-7.0 1.6-4.0 No No Rfc.
stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

6.0 (15/64) 3.0 (1/8)


23 Decorative
hemming,
N 27 27 27 24 24 24 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
heirloom stitching, etc.
(1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.


74
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————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight 5.0 (3/16) 3.5 (1/8)
N 28 28 28 25 25 25 – and plain weave fab- 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
rics, heirloom stitching, (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
etc.
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight 5.0 (3/16) 4.0 (3/16)
N 29 29 29 26 26 26 24 and plain weave fab- 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
rics, heirloom stitching, (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
etc.
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight 5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32)
N 30 30 30 27 27 27 – and plain weave fab- 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
Decorative rics, heirloom stitching, (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
stitch etc.
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight 5.0 (3/16) 2.0 (1/16)
N 31 31 31 28 28 28 – and plain weave fab- 1.5-7.0 1.5-4.0 No No Rfc.
rics, heirloom stitching, (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)
etc.
Decorative stitching, 6.0 (15/64) 1.6 (1/16)
N 32 32 32 - - - - smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
4
Decorative stitching, 5.0 (3/16) 1.6 (1/16)
N 33 33 33 - - - - smocking stitching, 1.5-7.0 1.0-4.0 No No Rfc.
heirloom stitching, etc. (1/16-1/4) (1/16-3/16)

Horizontal buttonholes 5.0 (3/16) 0.5 (1/32) ***


A 34 34 34 29 29 29 25 on thin and medium 3.0-5.0 0.2-1.0 No No Auto
weight fabrics (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

Secured buttonholes for 5.0 (3/16) 0.5 (1/32) ***


A 35 35 35 30 30 30 26 fabrics that have back- 3.0–5.0 0.2–1.0 No No Auto
ings (1/8-3/16) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

6.0 (15/64) 1.0 (1/16) ***


Buttonholes for stretch
A 36 36 36 31 31 31 27 or knit fabrics 3.0–6.0 0.5–2.0 No No Auto
(1/8-15/64) (1/32-1/16) Rfc.

6.0 (15/64) 1.5 (1/16) ***


A 37 37 37 32 32 32 28 Buttonholes for stretch 3.0–6.0 1.0–3.0 No No Auto
fabrics Rfc.
(1/8-15/64) (1/16-1/8)
Buttonhole
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.0 (1/16) ***
A 38 38 38 - - - - Bound buttonholes 0.0–6.0 0.2–4.0 No No Auto
(0–15/64) (1/64-3/16) Rfc.

7.0 (1/4) 0.5 (1/32) ***


29 Keyhole
buttonholes for
A 39 39 39 33 33 33 3.0–7.0 0.3–1.0 No No Auto
thick or furry fabrics
(1/8-1/4) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 (1/4) 0.5 (1/32) ***


A 40 40 40 34 34 – – medium weight and 3.0–7.0 0.3–1.0 No No Auto
thick fabrics (1/8-1/4) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.

7.0 (1/4) 0.5 (1/32) ***


Keyhole buttonholes for No Auto
A 41 41 41 35 35 – – 3.0–7.0 0.3–1.0 No
thick or furry fabrics Rfc.
(1/8-1/4) (1/64-1/16)
Reinforcing openings 2.0 (1/16) 0.4 (1/64) ***
Bar tack and areas where the
A 42 42 42 36 36 34 30 seam easily comes 1.0–3.0 0.3–1.0 No No Auto
stitch
(1/16-1/8) (1/64-1/16) Rfc.
loose
Piecing straight stitching 5.5 (7/32) 2.0 (1/16)
(with a seam allowance
J 43 43 43 37 37 - - of 6.5mm from the right 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 No Yes Rfc.
edge of the presser foot) (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight Piecing straight
stitch stitching (with a seam 1.5 (1/16) 2.0 (1/16)
J 44 44 44 38 38 - - allowance of 6.5mm 0.0–7.0 0.2–5.0 No Yes Rfc.
from the left edge of the (0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
presser foot)
***Auto Rfc.:Automatic Reinforcement
75
APPENDIX ————————————
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32)


Hand-look Straight stitch quilting
J 45 45 45 39 39 35 31 0.0–7.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
quilting that looks hand-sewn
(0–1/4) (1/16–3/16)

Appliqué quilting, free- 3.5 (1/8) 1.4 (1/16)


Zigzag stitch
J 46 46 46 40 40 - - motion quilting, satin 0.0–7.0 0.0–4.0 No Yes Rfc.
(for quilting)
stitching, button sewing (0–1/4) (0–3/16)

1.5 (1/16) 1.8 (1/16)


J 47 47 47 41 41 - - Attaching appliqués No No Rfc.
and binding 0.5–3.5 1.0–4.0
Appliqué (1/32–1/8) (1/16–3/16)
stitch
(for quilting) 1.5 (1/16) 1.8 (1/16)
Attaching appliqués
J 48 48 48 42 42 - - 0.5–3.5 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
and binding
(1/32–1/8) (1/16–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


Quilting Quilting background
stippling J 49 49 49 43 43 - - stitching (stippling) 1.0–7.0 1.0–4.0 No No Rfc.
(1/16–1/4) (1/16–3/16)

3.0 (1/8) 1.0 (1/16)


N 50 50 50 - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

5.0 (3/16) 2.0 (1/16)


N 51 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64-3/16)

4.0 (3/16) 1.6 (1/16)


N 52 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

5.0 (3/16) 2.5 (3/32)


N 53 51 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 54 52 51 - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 55 53 52 44 44 36 32 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.4 (1/16)


Decorative
stitch N 56 54 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 57 55 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


N 58 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)


N 59 56 53 45 45 37 33 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 60 57 54 46 46 38 - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 61 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)


N 62 58 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

76
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———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 63 59 55 47 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


N 64 60 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)


N 65 61 56 48 47 39 - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)


N 66 62 57 49 48 40 - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


N 67 63 58 50 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 68 64 59 51 49 41 34 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc. 4
7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)
N 69 65 60 52 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)
Decorative
stitch
5.0 (3/16) 2.0 (1/16)
N 70 66 61 53 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


N 71 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)


N 72 67 62 - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.0 (1/16)


N 73 68 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 2.5 (3/32)


N 74 69 63 54 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


N 75 70 64 55 50 - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.4 (1/16)


N 76 71 65 56 51 - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 77 72 66 - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


Satin
N 78 73 67 58 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
stitches
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 79 74 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

77
APPENDIX ————————————
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————————

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 80 75 68 59 53 43 35 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 81 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 82 76 69 60 54 44 36 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 83 77 70 61 55 45 - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 84 78 71 62 56 46 37 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 85 79 72 63 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


Satin
stitches N 86 80 73 64 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 87 81 74 57 52 42 - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 88 82 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 89 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 90 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 91 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

7.0 (1/4) 0.4 (1/64) **


N 92 - - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.1–1.0 Yes No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–1/16) (J)

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

78
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————
———
———
————
———
———
————
———
———
——————————————————————————————————————
————————————————

Reinforcement (Rfc.)
Stitch Width Stitch Length
Pattern No.

Reverse (Rev.)/
[mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)]

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitching
Pattern

100 stitches
Stitch Name Application

90 stitches

80 stitches

70 stitches

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches
Auto Auto

model

model

model

model

model

model

model
Manual Manual

6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16)


N 93 83 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

7.0 (1/4) 1.6 (1/16)


N 94 84 75 65 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

6.0 (15/64) 2.5 (3/32)


N 95 85 76 67 57 47 38 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16)


Cross-
stitches N 96 86 - - - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16)


N 97 87 77 66 - - - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16)


N 98 88 78 68 58 48 - For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc. 4
6.0 (15/64) 1.4 (1/16)
N 99 89 79 69 59 49 39 For decoration, etc. 0.0–7.0 0.2–4.0 No No Rfc.
(0–1/4) (1/64–3/16)

79
APPENDIX ————————————
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MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Restrictions on oiling Cleaning the race


In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
not be oiled by the user. race therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
This machine was manufactured with the necessary
amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation, Switch the machine off and unplug it.
making periodic oiling unnecessary. a

If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the


handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop CAUTION
using the machine, and contact your authorized
dealer or the nearest authorized service center. ● Make sure you unplug the machine before
you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an
electric shock or be injured.
Precautions on storing the
machine Raise the needle and the presser foot.
b
Do not store the machine in any of the locations
described below, otherwise damage to the machine Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle
may result, for example, rust caused by condensation. c clamp screw to remove the presser-foot
• Exposed to extremely high temperatures holder and the needle.
• Exposed to extremely low temperatures
• Exposed to extreme temperature changes
• Exposed to high humidity or steam
• Near a flame, heater or air conditioner
• Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight
• Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments

Note
● In order to extend the life of this machine, Slide the needle plate cover release toward
periodically turn it on and use it. d you to remove the needle plate cover.
Storing this machine for an extended period
of time without using it may reduce its
efficiency.

Cleaning the machine


surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and a Needle plate cover
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning b Needle plate cover release
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.

CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.

80
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Remove the bobbin case. Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
e Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out. g the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
machine.

a Bobbin case

f remove any dust from the race and its


Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

surrounding area.

4
• Align the S and z marks.

a Cleaning brush
b Race

Note
● Do not put oil on the race.

a S mark
b z mark
c Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are


aligned before installing the bobbin case.

CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.

81
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As shown, insert the tab on the needle plate From the front, slide the needle plate cover
h cover into the hole in the needle plate, and i back into position.
then correctly position of the needle plate
cover.

a Needle plate cover

CAUTION
● If the needle plate cover is not flush with the
surface of the machine as shown below,
remove the needle plate cover (step d), and
then install it again (steps h and i). Sewing
while the needle plate cover is not flush with
the surface of the machine may cause the
needle plate cover to come off of the
machine, resulting in injuries if your fingers
touch the race.

a Needle plate cover


b Tab
c Hole
• Check that the needle plate cover is flush
with the top surface of the machine.

82
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TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the
latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://support.brother.com/ ” .
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Frequent troubleshooting topics


Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting topics are described below. Be sure to refer to this
before contacting us.

■ Upper thread tightened up page 83

■ Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric page 84

■ Incorrect thread tension (Upper/lower side of fabric) page 87

■ Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed page 88

■ Remedy/check details 4
Upper thread tightened up Correctly install the lower thread.

■ Symptom Turn off the sewing machine.


• The upper thread appears as a single a
continuous line.
b
Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.
• The lower thread is visible from the upper
side of the fabric. (Refer to the illustration Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that
below.) c the thread unwinds in the correct direction.
• The upper thread has tightened up, and • Hold the bobbin with your right hand with
comes out when pulled. the thread unwinding to the left, and hold
• The upper thread has tightened up, and the end of the thread with your left hand.
wrinkles appear in the fabric. Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin
• The upper thread tension is tight, and the in the bobbin case.
results do not change even after the thread
tension is adjusted.

a Lower side of fabric If the bobbin is inserted with the thread


b Lower thread visible from upper side of fabric unwinding in the wrong direction, sewing will be
c Upper thread done with an incorrect thread tension.
d Upper side of fabric
e Lower thread
■ Cause
Incorrect lower threading
If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded, instead
of the appropriate tension being applied to the
lower thread, it is pulled through the fabric when
the upper thread is pulled up. For this reason, the
thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.

83
APPENDIX ————————————
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While holding the bobbin in place with your


d finger, pass the thread through the slit in the
Tangled thread on wrong
needle plate.
side of fabric
• Hold down the bobbin with your right hand,
and then pull the end of the thread around ■ Symptom
the tab with your left hand. • The thread becomes tangled on the lower
side of the fabric.

a Tab
b Hold down the bobbin with your right hand.
• After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made
On models equipped with the quick-set bobbin, and sewing cannot continue.
pull the thread to pass it through the slit in the • Looking under the fabric, there is tangled
needle plate, then cut it with the cutter. thread in the bobbin case.

■ Cause
Incorrect upper threading
If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the
upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be
firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes
tangled in the bobbin case, causing a rattling
noise.
■ Remedy/check details
Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the
c Slit upper threading.
d Cutter
Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be
a removed, cut the thread with scissors.
Sewing with the correct thread tension is possible
after the bobbin has been correctly installed in the
bobbin case. • For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on
page 80.

b
Remove the upper thread from the machine.

Refer to the following steps to correct the


c upper threading.
• If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin
case, refer to “Lower threading” (page 20)
and “Remedy/check details” in the section
“Upper thread tightened up” (page 83) to
correctly install the bobbin.

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Raise the presser foot using the presser foot Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
d lever. g from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.

a Presser foot lever


• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.

e toward you (counterclockwise) so that the


Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
a Thread guide cover
mark on the wheel points up, or press
h illustration below.
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
(needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button)
once or twice to raise the needle.
4

or

a Mark
b Needle position button

Pull some thread off the spool, and then pass


f the thread under the thread guide.

a Thread guide

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Make sure you guide the thread through the


i thread take-up lever from right to left as
shown in the illustration below.
Sewing is possible only if the thread is securely
hooked on the thread take-up lever.

a Thread take-up lever


• Make sure that the thread is securely hooked
on the thread take-up lever.

j guide above the needle.


Put the thread behind the needle bar thread

The thread can easily be passed behind the


needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

Thread the needle according to steps m and


k n in “Upper threading” (page 26) or steps b

through i in “Using the needle threader (for


models equipped with the needle threader)”
(page 26).

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Incorrect thread tension


■ Symptoms
• Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
• Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric.
• Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric.
• Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric.
• Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.
† Symptom 1 † Symptom 3
a Lower side of fabric
b Lower thread visible from
upper side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Upper side of fabric
e Lower thread
f Upper thread visible from
lower side of fabric

■ Cause/remedy/check details
† Cause 1 † Cause 2
The machine is not correctly threaded. A needle and thread appropriate for the 4
<With symptoms 1 and 2 described above> fabric are not being used.
The lower threading is incorrect. The sewing machine needle that should be
Return the upper tension-control dial to “4”, used depends on the type of fabric sewn and
and then refer to “Upper thread tightened up” the thread thickness.
(page 83) to correct the threading. If a needle and thread appropriate for the
fabric are not being used, the thread tension
<With symptoms 3 through 5 described will not be adjusted correctly, causing
above> wrinkles in the fabric or skipped stitches.
The upper threading is incorrect. • Refer to “Needle types and their uses”
Return the upper tension-control dial to “4”, (page 29) to check that a needle and thread
and then refer to “Tangled thread on wrong appropriate for the fabric are being used.
side of fabric” (page 84) to correct the upper
threading.

† Cause 3
An appropriate setting on the upper tension-control dial is not selected.
Turn the upper tension-control dial to select an appropriate thread tension.
The appropriate thread tension differs according to the type of fabric and thread being used.
* Adjust the thread tension while test sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used in
your project.

Note
● If the upper threading and lower threading are incorrect, the thread tension cannot be adjusted
correctly, even by turning the upper tension-control dial. Check the upper threading and lower
threading first, and then adjust the thread tension.

• When the lower thread is visible from the • When the upper thread is visible from the
upper side of the fabric. Turn the upper lower side of the fabric. Turn the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number tension-control dial to a higher number
(toward the left). (Loosen the thread tension.) (toward the right). (Tighten the thread
tension.)

5 4 3

5 4 3

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Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove


Fabric is caught in the g the bobbin.

machine and cannot be


removed
If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and
cannot be removed, the thread may have become
tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure
described below to remove the fabric from the
machine. If the operation could not be completed
according to the procedure, instead of attempting to
complete it forcefully, contact your nearest
Remove the bobbin case.
h If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove
authorized service center.
■ Removing the fabric from the machine
them.

a
Immediately stop the sewing machine.

Turn off the sewing machine.


b
Remove the needle.
c If the needle is lowered into the fabric, turn the
handwheel away from you (clockwise) to raise
the needle out of the fabric, and then remove
the needle.
• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 30). a Bobbin case

Remove the presser foot and presser foot


d holder. i remove any dust from the race and its
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

• Refer to “Replacing the presser foot” surrounding area.


(page 34) and “Removing the presser foot
holder” (page 35).

Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it.


e If the fabric can be removed, remove it.
Continue with the following steps to clean the
race.

f
Remove the needle plate cover.
a Cleaning brush
b Race

Continue with
If the fabric could be removed
step p.

Continue with
If the fabric could not be removed
step j.

a Needle plate cover release


b Needle plate cover (front part)

88
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Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to Lightly finger-tighten the screw on the right
j loosen the two screws on the needle plate. o side of the needle plate. Then, use the disc-
shaped screwdriver to firmly tighten the
screw on the left side. Finally, firmly tighten
the screw on the right side.

Note Turn the handwheel to check that the feed


● Be careful not to drop the removed screws dogs move smoothly and do not contact the
in the machine. edges of the slots in the needle plate.

Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any


k tangled threads, and then remove the needle
plate.
Remove the fabric and threads from the needle
plate.
4

a Correct position of feed dogs


b Incorrect position of feed dogs

Note
If the fabric cannot be removed, even after ● Be careful not to drop the removed screws
completing these steps, contact your nearest in the machine.
authorized service center.

l the feed dogs.


Remove any threads in the race and around

m
Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

Align the two screw holes in the needle plate


n with the two holes at the needle plate
mounting base, and then fit the needle plate
onto the machine.

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Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on Check the condition of the needle, and then
p the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the r install it.
machine. If the needle is in a poor condition, for
example, if it is bent, be sure to install a new
needle.
• Refer to “Checking the needle” (page 30)
and “Replacing the needle” (page 30).

CAUTION
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Note
● After completing this procedure, continue
with the following procedure in “Checking
machine operations” to check that the
machine is operating correctly.

Memo
• Align the S and z marks. ● Since the needle may have been damaged
when the fabric was caught in the machine,
we recommend replacing it with a new one.

a S mark
b z mark
c Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are


aligned before installing the bobbin case.

CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.

Attach the needle plate cover according to


q steps h and i in “Cleaning the race”

(page 82).

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■ Checking machine operations Turn off the machine, and then install the
If the needle plate has been removed, check f bobbin and presser foot.
machine operations to confirm that installation • Refer to “Lower threading” (page 20) and
has been completed correctly. “Replacing the presser foot” (page 34).

a g • For details on threading the machine, refer to


Turn on the machine. Correctly thread the machine.

“Upper threading” (page 23).

b
Select (middle needle position stitch).
Note
● The thread may have become tangled as a
Note result of incorrect upper threading. Make
● Do not yet install the presser foot and sure that the machine is correctly threaded.
thread.

Perform trial sewing with normal fabric.


h
c (counterclockwise), and look from all sides to
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

check that the needle falls at the center of the Note


hole in the needle plate. ● Incorrect sewing may be the result of
If the needle contacts the needle plate, remove
the needle plate, and then install it again,
incorrect upper threading or sewing thin
fabrics. If there are poor results from the trial
4
starting with step m in “Removing the fabric sewing, check the upper threading or the
from the machine” (page 89). type of fabric being used.

a Hole in the needle plate


b Handwheel

d
Select zigzag stitch . At this time, increase

the stitch length and width to their maximum


settings.
• For details on changing the settings, refer to
“Adjusting the stitch length and width”
(page 38).

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you


e (counterclockwise) and check that the needle
bar and feed dogs operate correctly.
If the needle or feed dogs contact the needle
plate, the machine may be malfunctioning;
therefore, contact your nearest authorized
service center.

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List of symptoms
■ Before sewing

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference


Raise the needle either by turning the
The needle handwheel toward you
threader can not You have not moved the needle (counterclockwise) so that the mark
be used. (For page 23
holder to its highest position. on the wheel points up or by pressing
models equipped
with the needle (needle position button) once or
threader lever.) twice.
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 30

The sewing light Contact your retailer or the nearest


The sewing lamp is damaged. –
does not come authorized service center.
on. The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 12
The thread is not passed through the
Correctly pass the thread through the
bobbin-winding thread guide page 17
bobbin-winding thread guide.
correctly.
Bobbin thread Bobbin spins slowly. (for models Move the sewing speed controller to
does not wind equipped with the sewing speed the right (so that the speed will be page 19
neatly on the controller.) fast).
bobbin.
The thread that was pulled out was
Wind the thread that was pulled off
not wound onto the bobbin correctly.
round the bobbin five or six times page 18
(For models equipped with the fast
clockwise.
bobbin winding system.)
Raise the needle either by turning the
The thread does handwheel toward you
not pass through
the eye of the You have not moved the needle (counterclockwise) so that the mark
page 23
needle. (For holder to its highest position. on the wheel points up or by pressing
models equipped (needle position button) once or
with the needle twice.
threader lever.)
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 30
The needle
threader lever
does not lower to
the correct The needle has not been raised to the
position. (For Press the needle position button. page 23
correct position.
models equipped
with the needle
threader lever.)
While winding
the bobbin, the After removing the thread wound
bobbin thread You have not wound the bobbin
was wound below the bobbin winder seat, wind page 15
thread properly.
below the bobbin the bobbin correctly.
winder seat.

92
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■ While sewing

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference


The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 12
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 12
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
the right. left. page 18, 19

You have not used the foot


controller properly. Use the foot controller properly. page 13
The sewing
machine does The foot controller or the start/stop
button was not pressed (for models Press the foot controller or the start/ page 39
not work. stop button.
equipped with the start/stop button).
The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. page 39
Do not use the start/stop button
The start/stop button was pressed, when the foot controller is
even though the foot controller is connected. To use the start/stop page 39
connected. (for models equipped button, disconnect the foot
with the start/stop button) controller.
Fabric being
sewn with the
machine cannot
Thread is tangled below the needle
plate.
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads
below it, and clean the race. page 88 4
be removed.
The spool or spool cap is incorrectly Correctly install the spool or spool
installed. cap. page 24

The upper thread was not threaded


correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 23

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 30


Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to
The needle clamp screw is loose. firmly tighten the screw. page 31

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 30


You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and Choose a thread and needle that are page 29
needle. appropriate for the type of fabric.

The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct
appropriate for the type of stitch that for the type of stitch that you want to page 73
The needle you want to sew. sew.
breaks.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 41
You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –
Replace the needle plate.
The area around the hole in the Contact your retailer or the nearest –
needle plate is scratched. authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest –
presser foot is scratched. authorized service center.
Replace the bobbin case.
The bobbin case is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorized service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
You have not used a bobbin that has properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 15
been designed for this machine. been designed for this machine.

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Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference


The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is Correct the upper threading. Use the
not installed correctly, the spool cap spool cap that best fits the size of the page 23
is too big for the spool being used, or spool being used.
the thread has come out of the
needle bar thread guide.)
There are knots or tangles in the Remove any knots or tangles. –
thread.
The needle is not appropriate for the Choose a needle that is appropriate page 29
thread you are using. for the type of stitch.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 41
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example, thread is tangled in the race, clean page 80, 84
in the race.
the race.
The upper
thread breaks. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 30
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 30
Replace the needle plate.
The area around the hole in the Contact your retailer or the nearest –
needle plate is scratched. authorised service center.
Replace the presser foot.
The area around the hole in the Contact your retailer or the nearest –
presser foot is scratched. authorised service center.

The bobbin case is scratched, or has Replace the bobbin case.


a burr on it. Contact your retailer or the nearest –
authorised service center.

You have not used a bobbin that has Incorrect bobbins will not work
been designed for this machine. properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 15
been designed for this machine.
You have not wound the bobbin Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 15
thread properly.
The bobbin is scratched or does not Replace the bobbin. –
turn smoothly.
The lower
thread is tangled The thread is tangled. Remove the tangled thread and page 80, 84
or breaks. clean the race.

You have not used a bobbin that has Incorrect bobbins will not work
been designed for this machine. properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 15
been designed for this machine.
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 20, 21
You have not threaded the upper thread Thread the upper thread and wind page 20, 21, 23
properly or fitted the bobbin properly. the bobbin thread properly.
The spool or spool cap is incorrectly Correctly install the spool or spool page 24
installed. cap.
You have not used the right Choose a thread and needle that are
combination of fabric, thread and appropriate for the type of fabric. page 29
The fabric is needle.
wrinkled.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 30
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the Sew with the stabilizer material
stitch is too long or the fabric is not under the fabric. page 44
being fed correctly.
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the Shorten the stitch length, or sew with page 38, 44
stitch is too coarse. stabilizer material under the fabric.

94
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Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference


The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct
The fabric is appropriate for the type of stitch that for the type of stitch that you want to page 73
wrinkled. you want to sew. sew.
The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 41, 87
You have not threaded the upper Correct the upper threading. page 23
thread properly.
You have not used the right Choose a thread and needle that are
combination of fabric, thread and appropriate for the type of fabric. page 29
Stitches are needle.
skipped.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
page 30
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
Dust has accumulated under the Remove the needle plate cover and page 80
needle plate or in the race. clean the plate and the race.
Dust has built up in the feed dogs or Remove the needle plate cover and page 80
in the race. clean the plate and the race.
You have not threaded the upper Correct the upper threading. page 23
thread properly.
There is a high-
pitched noise
while sewing. The bobbin case is scratched.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest –
4
authorized service center.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
You have not used bobbin that has properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 15
been designed for this machine.
been designed for this machine.
The feed dogs are lowered. Slide the feed dog position lever to . page 55, 65
The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 38
You have not used the right Choose a thread and needle that are
combination of fabric, thread and appropriate for the type of fabric. page 29
needle.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example, thread is tangled in the race, clean page 80, 84
The fabric does in the race.
the race.
not feed.
The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct
appropriate for the type of stitch that for the type of stitch that you want to page 73
you want to sew. sew.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 30
Use the presser foot locking pin
Zigzag foot “J” is slanted on a thick (black button on the left side) on page 43
seam at the beginning of stitching. zigzag foot “J” to keep the presser
foot level while sewing.
The fabric feeds Contact your retailer or the nearest
in the opposite The feed mechanism is damaged. authorized service center. –
direction.

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■ After sewing

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference


The upper
thread has The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 20, 83
installed.
tightened up.
You have not threaded the upper Correct the upper threading. page 23
thread properly.
You have not wound the bobbin Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 15
thread properly.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 20
installed.
You have not threaded the right Choose a thread and needle that are
The thread combination of thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric. page 29
tension is for the fabric you are using.
incorrect. You have not attached the presser- Attach the presser-foot holder page 35
foot holder properly. properly.

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper page 41, 87
thread.

You have not used a bobbin that has Incorrect bobbins will not work
been designed for this machine. properly. Only use a bobbin that has page 15
been designed for this machine.
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 20, 21
The thread is
tangled on the You have not threaded the upper
thread properly. Correct the upper threading. page 23, 84
wrong side of
the fabric.
The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct
appropriate for the type of stitch that for the type of stitch that you want to page 73
you want to sew. sew.
The stitch is not The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper page 41, 87
sewn correctly. thread.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example, thread is tangled in the race, clean page 80, 84
in the race.
the race.

96
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ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the
operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.
If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Error Message Probable Cause Solution
The foot controller was pressed (or the start/
stop button was pressed if the foot controller
Lower the presser foot lever before
is not connected) and the reverse/
continuing the operation.
reinforcement stitch button was pressed while
the presser foot is raised.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack
stitch was selected and the foot controller
Raise the buttonhole lever before
was pressed (or the start/stop button was
continuing the operation.
pressed if the foot controller is not connected)
while the buttonhole lever is lowered.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected
and the foot controller was pressed (or the
start/stop button was pressed if the foot
Lower the buttonhole lever before
continuing the operation.
4
controller is not connected) while the
buttonhole lever is raised.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
needle position button was pressed while the
left before continuing the operation.
bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.
Disconnect the foot controller, and
The start/stop button was pressed while the then press the start/stop button.
foot controller was connected. Otherwise, operate the machine by
using the foot controller.
Clean the race to remove the tangled
thread (p.84). After cleaning the race,
The motor locked up because the thread is insert the bobbin case properly. If the
tangled. needle is bent or broken, replace the
needle. Then, thread the upper thread
properly, and continue the operation.

Note
● If error message “F1” through “F9” appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the
machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)


Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).
■ If a key is pressed (correct operation)
One beep sounds.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed
Two or four beeps sound.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled
The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the
cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.

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INDEX

Numerics N
3-point zigzag stitch ................................................45, 59 needle ............................................................................ 29
needle bar thread guide.............................................9, 26
A needle clamp screw ..................................................9, 31
accessories .......................................................................6 needle plate ..................................................................... 9
appliqués .......................................................................61 needle plate cover.....................................................9, 80
needle position............................................................... 47
B needle position button......................................................9
needle threader .........................................................9, 26
bar tack ..........................................................................66
basic stitching ................................................................47
blind hem stitching.........................................................48 O
bobbin ...........................................................................20 openings ........................................................................ 66
bobbin case....................................................................21 operation beep ........................................................14, 97
bobbin cover...................................................... 9, 20, 21 operation buttons ............................................................. 9
bobbin winder............................... 8, 15, 18, 92, 93, 97 operation panel .............................................................. 10
button sewing.................................................................55 optional accessories ......................................................... 7
buttonhole foot........................................................52, 66 overcasting stitches ........................................................ 45
buttonhole lever ................................................. 9, 53, 67
buttonhole sewing..........................................................51 P
patchwork stitching ........................................................ 62
C piecing ........................................................................... 62
crazy quilt stitching ........................................................62 pocket corners................................................................ 66
presser foot................................................................9, 34
D presser foot holder.....................................................9, 35
presser foot lever .......................................................9, 23
darning....................................................................45, 59

E Q
elastic tape .....................................................................59 quick-set bobbin ................................................ 9, 21, 28
quilting........................................................................... 63
error messages................................................................97
extra spool pin ...............................................................32 quilting foot.................................................................... 64
eyelet punch ..................................................................54 quilting guide ..........................................................63, 64

F R
fagoting ..........................................................................69 race................................................................................ 80
fast bobbin winding........................................................18 reinforcement stitching................................................... 40
reverse/reinforcement stitch button............................9, 40
feed dog position lever ....................................... 8, 55, 65
feed dogs............................................................ 9, 55, 64
flat bed attachment...............................................7, 8, 44 S
foot controller .................................................... 6, 13, 39 scallop stitching ............................................................. 70
free-motion quilting........................................................64 seam ripper .................................................................... 54
sewing machine needles ................................................ 29
H sewing speed controller.............................................9, 13
sleeve holes.................................................................... 66
handwheel ................................................................8, 39
heirloom stitching ..........................................................72 smocking........................................................................ 70
hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................43 spool cap .................................................... 6, 10, 15, 24
spool pin .......................................................... 10, 15, 23
start/stop button.........................................................9, 39
J stitch length.................................................................... 38
joining............................................................................71
stitch selection key ......................................................... 10
joining stitch ...........................................................61, 68
stitch settings.................................................................. 73
stitch width .................................................................... 38
M straight stitch .................................................................. 47
main parts ........................................................................8 stretch fabrics ................................................................. 44
main power switch.........................................................12
monogramming.......................................................70, 72

98
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————————————————

T
thick fabrics....................................................................42
thin fabrics .....................................................................44
thread cutter...................................................................40
thread tension ................................................................41
trial sewing.....................................................................42
triple stretch stitch ..........................................................47
troubleshooting ..............................................................83
twin needle .............................................................31, 32

U
upper tension-control dial .................................. 8, 41, 87
upper threading..............................................................23

W
walking foot ...................................................................63
wing needle ...................................................................72

Z
zigzag stitch ..................................................... 42, 45, 61
zipper foot......................................................................57
zipper insertion ..............................................................57
4

99
Please visit us at http://support.brother.com where you can get product
support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

English
888-V60/V61/V62/V63/V64/V65
Printed in Vietnam

XF0213-1011

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