FULL SERVICE WHOLESALER

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REFILLS. TRY US - YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED.

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P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL. MN 55164

NATIONAL WATS-ORDERS ONLY - 800-328-0205
MINNESOTA WATS-ORDERS ONLY - 800-392-0334
INQUIRIES-INFORMATION - 612-452-7180
VOLUME 13, NUMBER 1 JANUARY 1989

HOROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

ROBERT F. BISHOP
2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

HENRY B. FRIED
6 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
A Kullberg Watch

14
WATCHES INSIDE & OUT
Dealing With Hairsprings
16
GERHARD M. HUTTER
16 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT
A Waterwheel Clock

LEO A. JAROS LAW

18 CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING
A Diagnostic Systems Approach, Part Four
Preventing
HODGEPODGE LODGE
JOHN A. NAGLE
20 Right From the Start He Knew It Was a Setup

Friction
CHARLES CLEVES
26 OLD WATCHES
Rolex Watches

30
FRED S. BURCKHARDT
28 ROCK QUARRY
A Clock That Just Never Got Fixed

JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER

30 Oil and Lubrication

ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES

32 Antique Watch Restoration, Part XXXV 11
The Characteristics of Driven Pinions
Characteristics
From 6 Leaves Through 14 Leaves

MARVIN E. WHITNEY
36 MILITARY TIME
Aircraft Clock, Type A-7 and A-11, Waltham
of Driven
MARSHALL F. RICHMOND
42 PICKLE BARREL
Uncommon Jewelry Repairs Pinions
HENRY B. FRIED

44
BOOK REVIEW
"How to Build a Regulator Clock"
"Time In Gold"
32
"Watchmaking"

DEPARTMENTS
WES DOOR
46 SHOP TALK
Quartz Movement Interchangeability Chart, Part 2
Bulletin Board/12
THOMAS H. WHITE
48 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN
A Lot or A Little?
New Members/23
Forum/41
HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American
Association News/48
Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 New Products/News in the Trade/51
per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.l. Second class Classified Ads/53
postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES,
P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.
Advertisers' lndex/56
Dates to Remember/56
OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time).
Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24 hours, recording).
 George Daniels
Henry B. Fried
FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans
* Orville R. Hagans
OF THE AMERICAN
Robert A. Nelson
WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease
EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES
Milton C. Stevens
AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney
P.O. Box 11011
3700 Harrison Avenue
Cincinnati, Ohio 45211
Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Milton C. Stevens: Interim Editor

Michael P. Danner: Interim Editor
Regina Stenger: Associate Editor
Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor
Donna Baas: Production Director

Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager

Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager
Mildred Howard: Circulation

TECHNICAL EDITORS: anuary 1989 - the beginning of a new year. The time for looking backwards
at what we have accomplished, and to look forward to our goals for the
James Adams Wes Door future. It is a time for New Year's resolutions; promises which, if kept, will
Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried make life better for ourselves, friends and family. Resolutions are so easy to make, and
James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman so hard to keep. Sometimes they represent a longing to be a little bit better. A resolution
Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson not kept is not totally wasted. Recognition of the need is often half the solution.
Edgar " N ick" Cleves Archie B. Perkins Should an organization such as AWi make resolutions? I say yes! Even though
I, and many others, believe that AWI ranks among the very best, there is always room for
Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond
improvement. What resolutions should AWi make? There are a few. First, we should
Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney
resolve to provide better educational services, and to make them more accessible to the
members. Now we can schedule workshops in areas that were economically impossible,
AW/ OFFICERS: thanks to the Perpetuation Fund. The results of the survey on the November Horological
Times envelope will play an important part in scheduling.
Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President Wbile AWI Central has an excellent record overall in providing answers to your
Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: 1st V. President technical questions, I am sure there are those who wish it could be faster, and now,
Wes Door, CMW: Secretary perhaps, we can resolve to improve these services. Again, the fund may make it possible.
Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer The office has had to operate with minimum personnel because of our budget squeeze.
We can also resolve to obtain the latest and most complete technical informa-
AW/ DIRECTORS: tion from the watch and clock companies. We have started to make this resolution come
true. Milton Stevens and Michael Danner have already obtained renewed committments
from several major companies to provide us with the best information promptly.
James Adams, CMW
I am sure there are other worthwhile resolutions AWI could make. Even
James H. Broughton, CEWS though they are not listed now, their effect will become evident in the months to come.
Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS Resolutions are not only the responsibility of AWI. You, the member, should
Henry Frystak, CMW make a few of your own. To those of you who are not fully trained in the work you are
Ewell D. Hartman, CMW doing~ to those of you who feel that you cannot take the time to attend seminars or avail
Donald R. Loke yourself of other training to upgrade your skills, I suggest that you make a resolution to
Ben Matz, CMW find the time to polish your skills.
Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI To those of you who are skilled, a resolution to share your knowledge with
Marshall F. Richmond, CMW your fellow craftsman would be in order.
To all AWI committee members, resolve to take an active part in your com-
mittee work. Too many times the chairman is the committee.
Thomas H. White: Affiliate Chapter Director To all, resolve to take a more active part in your local organization. Many
Dwight Tubb: Research and Education guilds are suffering because of lack of participation by the members.
Council Director Perhaps the best resolution of all would be for each of us to pledge to grow in
William Biederman, CMW: Past President our craft, and try to be a little better human beings in the coming months.
Happy New Year!
Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary
Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per-

mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy
right©1989 by the American Watchmakers Institute.
ON THE FRONT: James B. Downs of Cincinnati, OH submitted this slide which was
photographed by his late father.

2 Horological Times/January 1989

UP FRONT
AWi HOROLOGICAL TOUR TO RUSSIA
The AWi Horological Tour of Russia will take place May 13- CORRECTION
June 3, 1989. This trip will include a visit to the Slavo Watch
Thanks to the sharp eye of Mr. Ed Matthews of St. Louis, MO
Factory in Moscow, and to the Petrovoritz Watch Factory in for detecting a mistake in the article "The Simple, One SWitch
Leningrad. The 22-day, all-meal-inclusive tour will start in Power Supply," in the November issue of HOROLOGICAL
New York to Moscow, then to Erevan, Caucasus-Tblisi, to TIMES. Step 8, on page 12, should read:
Yalta, Rostov-On-Don, Kiev, Leningrad, and then home via 8. Solder an insulated wire from terminal 10 of the
Helsinki on Pan Am Airlines. For information please write switch to terminal 1 of the pot. Now, solder an insulated wire
to AWi Tour director Henry B. Fried at AWi Central, 3700 between terminal 3 of the pot., terminal 11 of the l.C. and
Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. t11minal 4 of the switch. Also solder the black wire of the bat-
t11Y connector to terminal 3 of the pot.

TECHNICAL REQUEST SERVICE FEE INDIVIDUAL TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE

Effective January 1, 1989, it will not be necessary to send a The AWI Technical Committee stands ready to assist you with
technical request card to be validated, nor will it be necessary any individual problem you may have. When seeking such
to pay a $2 service fee for technical requests. Due to the es- help, describe your problem in a letter: photographs, sketches,
tablishment of the Perpetuation Fund, the Board has agreed to and identification marks are most helpful as well as are patent
rescind these service fees . The membership was generally dates and numbers. Always mention what you have done to
quite cooperative while the service fee policy existed and the try to solve the problem. Placing parts and movements on a
staff wishes to thank all of them who responded in a positive photocopier will often help identify the piece you are working
manner. on.
Since many of these individual requests are "farmed
out" to volunteer members on the Technical Committee,
include just one request per letter, and always enclose a self-
addressed, stamped business-size envelope. Never send parts or
TECHNICAL REQUEST POLICY FOR 1989 movements for examination!
As in previous years, AWI will photocopy any request for in-
formation, up to 10 pages, and mail it free. Additional pages
up to 25 will be copied at a charge of 10 cents per page. This
is done to discourage requests that seek to build up a personal
technical library, rather than to obtain help with a job at hand. BULLETIN BOARD ASSISTANCE
We reserve the right to restrict requests to two per day to When the answers to requests for information or sources are
discourage abuses we have experienced in the past where in- not available in our files or through volunteer members of the
dividuals have requested hundreds of pages at one time. This Technical Committee, we will seek help from the readers of
is not the purpose of the service. Horological Times. Such requests will be published in the
"Bulletin Board" column which enjoyed an outstanding suc-
cess rate for answering questions through reader responses in
the past year. The "Bulletin Board" column does not publish
requests for individual parts needs, as this is better done
LIBRARY SEARCHES through the classified section of the magazine.
We will make library searches on a single subject, lasting up to
30 minutes of search time , without charge. If authorized by
the member , additional search time will be expended at the
rate of $2.00 for every 15 minutes of time expended beyond
the first 30 minutes. HOTLINE ASSISTANCE
If time is an important factor, we suggest you use the AWi
Technical Hotline which provides a 24-hour answering record-
er. Requests coming in on the hotline eliminate the delay that
several days in the mail requires. If, however, sketches or
photos are needed for identification, or a long complicated
OUTSIDE PROFESSIONAL RESEARCH description of the problem is necessary, mail will be best. It
We can arrange for a professional researcher to research a will save you the time of having the Technical Staff request
horological subject for which we have no information in our more details regarding the problem. The hotline number is
file or library at the rate of $10 per 30 minutes. The search . (513) 661-INFO (4636). Calls received from nonmembers
charge will be payable even if positive results are not achieved. will not be processed.
4 Horological Times/January 1989
 Panasonic Watch Battery Kit
11
260 Asst. Cells 11
Available Two Ways:
ASIS.... . ... .. .......... $155

FREE CABINET & DRAWER STICKERS

FREE AWi INTERCHANGABILITY BOOK
FREE BATTERY TESTER

Panasonic®
For your closest distributor call

1(800)873-CELL
Panasonic
 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

A Kullberg Watch

Q Can you give me any informa-

tion on the following· watch?
It is a man's hunter case watch,
size 16 movement (42.5mm diameter),
keywind and stem wind, lever set and key
set, 18 karat yellow-gold case with
enameling on front and back covers,
and white enamel dial with black Roman
numerals.
On the dial is: Victor Kullberg
London 4227. The dial has an inset dial
for seconds and another inset dial to
indicate hour left on the mainspring
(wind indicator). This wind indicator dial The inside of the inner rear
is marked with Arabic numerals 0 up case cover is stamped JM in an oval, a
9 12 18 24 Wind Down. crown in a square next to it and 18 in a
The movement has two stems square. These are also stamped on the
(the inside back cover has key holes for bow and on the pendant tube. Also on
both of them) one for winding the main- the inside cover are the scratch marks
spring and one for setting the time of two watch repairmen:
(the hour and minute hands can be set 34LiHF318-3B
by depressing a pin on the edge of the KJ-595 8681 W
crystal bezel-this pin is then released The enameling on the back cover
by another smaller pin which is per- is the crest of the Russian imperial
pendicular to the setting pin which is family and the enameling on the front
activated by closing the cover). The cover is reputed to be the monogram of
movement is a % plate, plain, cock, Nicolas Alexander Ill. The enameling
jeweled (but I don't know how many), is so good that it looks like a decal even
diamond end stone on balance staff, under 30X magnification. The enameling
chain drive, Breguet hairspring, and no is worthy of any museum in the world.
regulator. Victor Kullberg is listed as
The plate is extensively engraved. producing watches from 1850 to 1890,
Victor Kullberg so this watch would date between 1874
105 Liverpool Road London and 1890.
Diploma of Monour Vienna Can you give me additional
E.XHJE N 1873 information on the case or the move-
ment?
The Gold Medals
Ken Aiken Visby of Gotland. After a thorough
Paris 1867Havre1868Naples1871
& Trieste 1874 Montpelier, VT apprenticeship he worked with Louis
Urban Jurgensen, a famous maker. He
There are two engraved seals: then went to London where he took a
Maker to the Admiralty silver medal at Besancon with his chro-
Prize Medals Awarded 1860 1862 1864
#4227 A Victor Kullberg (1824-1890)
was a most famous horologist.
He was born on the island of
nometers. In 1862 he submitted two
(Continued on page 8)

6 Horological Times/January 1989

.llttrel WATERPROOF
Flat Waterproof Gaskets
,/ff~~~R STOCll
ftUMBER
WIDT H Or INSIDE
BAHD M/ M OIA.M/M
OUTSIDE
OIA. MIM
00 616 .60 15.90 17.10

GASKETS ::;1::: 0.
OA
OB
oc
1.
616!
617
618
619l
.50
.55
.55
.50
16.50
16.90
18.00
19.20
17.50
18.00
19.10
20.20

-~ING
619! .60 19.80 2LOO
IA 620l .60 20.35 2L50
lB 621 .60 2LOO 22.20
2. 621! .60 21.60 22.80
3. 622l .60 22.35 23.45
3A 623 .50 22.90 23.90
4. 623! .60 23.40 24.60
Borel 0-Ring Gaskets 5.
6.
625
626
.65
.60
25.00
26.00
26.30
27.20
for Case.backs and 7.
8.
9.
626!
627!
628!
.65
.60
.60
26.80
27.85
28.55
28.10
29.10
29.75
Battery hatches 0-Ring Price 10. 717 .70 17,00 18.40
11. 718! .70 18.60 20.00
60/1 1 each of 86 sizes 18.75 12. 720! .70 20.60 22.00
Cross section - inside diameter (in mm) 60/1 B 1 each of 120 sizes 26.00 12A 723 .75 23.10 24.60
13. 724 .75 24.00 25.50
60/3 3 each of 86 sizes 37.50 l3A 724! .70 24.60 26.00
Battery 60-1750 75-2760 90-2670 60/38 3 each of 120 sizes 52.50
14. 725! .70 25.65 27.00
14A 726 .75 26.00 27.50
Hatch 60-1790 75-2790 90-2710 15. 726! .75 26.50 28.00
61/1 1 each of 42 sizes 10.95 16.
Gaskets 60-1970 75-2825 90-2740 17.
727 .70 27.10 28.50
62/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 6.25 727! .75 27.50 29.00
45-0810 * 60-2100 75-2880 90-2780 18. 727i .70 27.70 29.10
40-1100 * 60-2165 75-2910 90-2810 64/3 3 ea of 22 thin sizes 19.95 !BA 728 .75 28.00 29.50
19. 728' .70 28.20 29.60
40-1250 * 60-2500 75-2940 90-2840 19A 728! .70 28.60 30.00
60-1000 * 60-2700 * 75-2970 90-2850 Round Flat Price 20.
2L
729
730
.70
.75
29.00
30.00
30.40
31.50
60-2800 * 75-2990 90-2860 21A 730! .70 30.40 31.50
Case back 60-2900 * 75-3005 90-2880 58/1 1 each of 91 sizes 26.50 22. 731! .75 3L50 33.00
Gaskets 60-2950 75-3080 90-2900 58/3 3 each of 91 sizes 55.70
23. 817! .80 17.20 18.80
35-1800 * 60-3000 * 75-3100 90-2930 55/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 16.50 24. 818.l .80 18.20 19.80
25, 819! .80 19.30 20.90
35-2000 * 60-3190 75-3140 90-2950 26. 821) .80 21.60 23.20
35-2100 * 60-3260 90-2980 New Black Flat Price 26A 823) .80 25.50 25.10
26B 824) .80 24.60 26.20
35-2400 * 60-3400 80-1650 90-3000 26C 825l .80 25.60 27.20
35-2500 * 80-1690 90-3020 59/2 2 each of 30 sizes 19.95 27. 8261 .85 26 ..30 28.00
28. 826! .80 26.60 28.20
70-1760 80-1750 90-3040 29. 826! .80 26.80 28.40

~HAO
40-1400 * 70-1850 80-1870 90-3050 30. 827) .85 27.30 29-00
3L 8271 .80 27.60 29.25
40-1500 * 70-1890 80-2030 90-3060 32. 827i .80 27.85 29.50
40-1600 * 70-1930 80-2100 90-3100 GAf><m
33. 828 .80 28.00 29.60
34. 828! .80 28.35 29.90
40-1700 * 70-1960 80-2750 90-3140 35. 828! .80 28.70 30 ..30
40-1900 * 70-1980 80-2800 90-3160 36. 829' .80 29.40 31.00
40-2300 * 70-2080 80-2840 90-3180 New Black Flat 37.
38.
830}
83U
.85
.80
30.60
3L65
32.30
33.30
40-2700 * 70-2130 80-2900 90-3200 (soft rubber) 39. 834' .80 34.20 35.80
40-2780 70-2330 80-2910 40. 913t .90 13.20 15.00
40-2800 * 70-2470 80-2930 95-2050 Refill Inside Outside 4L 917 .90 16.90 18.70
II diameter diameter 42. 918 .95 18.05 19.95
40-2900 70-2660 80-2960 95-2840 42A 920.l .90 20.20 22.00
40-3000 * 70-2710 80-3050 95-2960 43. 921 .90 2LOO 22.80
40-3070 101 15.00 x 17.00 44. 922! .90 22.40 24.20.
70-2760 80-3070 95-3000 102 17.00 x 18.00 45. 925l .90 25.25 27.00
40-3080 70-2780 80-3130 95-3180 103 17.80 x 18.70 46. 925] .95 25 .55 27.45
70-2810 80-3160 95-3360 104 18.50 x 19.50 47. 9261 .90 26.80 28.50
105 19.20 x 20.30 48. 928t .90 28.20 30.00
50-1650 * 70-2870 80-3240 106 19.50 x 20.50 49. 928) .90 28.60 30.45
50. 929 .90 28,90 30.70
50-1770 70-2900 80-3280 100-1900 107 20.00 x 21 .25 5L 93U .95 31.20 33.10
50-2030 70-2940 108 21.00 x 22.50 52. 932! .95 32.80 34.70
100-2625 109 22.25 x 23.75 53. 933l .90 33.20 35.00
50-2070 70-2980 85-1880 100-2750 110 23.00 x 25.00
50-2200 * 70-3005 85-2330 100-2850 111 24.00 x 25.50 54. 1022) 1.05 22.40
23.50 x 25.50 24.50
112
50-2400 * 70-3020 85-2660 100-2910 113 24.00 x 26.00 55. 1024 LOO 24.00 26.00
56. 1024) LOO 24.50 26.50
50-2500 * 70-3060 85-2790 100-2930 114 25.50 x 26.50 57. 1025 LOO 24.90 26.90
50-2600 * 70-3080 115 26.00 x 27.50 58. 10261 1.00 26.50 28.50
85-2840 100-2950 116 26.50 x 27.50 59. 1026! 1.05 26 .80 28.90
50-2700 * 70-3140 85-2940 100-2975 117 26.50 x 28.50 60. 1027 1.00 27 ,00 29.00
118 27.00 x 28.50 6L 10281 1.05 28.70 30.80
50-2800* 70-3200 100-3000 62. 1029 1.00 29,00 31.00
119 27.25 x 28.75
50-2840 70-3260 90-1830 100-3050 120 28.00 x 29.25 63. 1029! 1.00 29.80 31.80
64. 1032) 1.00 32.30 34.30
50-2900 * 70-3300 90-1850 100-3075 121 28.00 x 29.50
50-3000 * 122 28.50 x 29.50
90-1880 100-3175 123 29.00 x 30.00 65. 1125) 1.10 25 .25 27.5U
50-3100 * 75-1650 90-1920 100-3200 124 28.50 x 30.40 65A 112/t I.IQ 27.25 29.40
50-3200 * 75-1880 90-2050 100-3280 125 29.00 x 30.50
126 28.75 x 30.75 66. 12241 L20 24.80 27.20
50-3300 * 75-1920 90-2070 127 29.50 x 31.00 67. 1226 1.20 26.00 28.40
x 31 .50 ~8. 1227! 1.15 27.20 29.50
75-1980 90-2130 *New size 128 30.00

.
129 30.00 x 32.00 69. 1228 1.20 28.00 30..10
60-1450 75-2160 90-2220 70. 1230 1.25 30.00 32.50
130 31.50 x 33.50 71. 1230.! 1.15 30.70 33.00
60-1550 75-2600 90-2510 72. 1235 L20 35.15 37.55

Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106
National Order Desk - 1 ·800·333·4646
.llttrel Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014
National Order Desk - 1 ·800-654-9591
Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604
.llttrel
National Order Desk - 1·800·772·3456
 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
(Continued from page 6) My sketch shows the time main-
spring setup. I've never run across this
before. I managed to get the spring off
by capturing it with a wire wrapped
around the tightened spring and the
half-moon retainer. With all the other
parts removed, I then just slipped the
wire off to release the spring.
What is the correct way to install
and remove this spring?
Roy Holman
Oakland, CA

Unimat3 .,
Mills• Drills ~-J
' I '

Turns•Polishes I
I
I
I
I
I
I
j,.C..""""
chronometers, and among the other \
j-,
80 submitted, those two won first and I
I
I
I
second prizes. ;_j
A gold medal at Paris fallowed
and another gold at Havre in 1868.
Likewise, in 1871 in Naples and in 1872
he won first in Greenwich, breaking all
records for accuracy. In 1874 he was ap-
pointed chronometer maker for Sweden.
Other awards caused the Astronomet
Royal in his report to the clockmakers
company that Kullberg's latest chro-
nometer was the finest he had had on
trial.
In examining the photo of the TIME MAINSPRING
movement, I cannot make out the form
of escapement but that too might very
well be a detent (chronometer) escape-
ment.
As it is, it is a typical fine
Kullberg calibre and should rate very
A I have read your letter and
excellent sketches with interest.
You did very well and when
in doubt you applied the tried and true
high. I cannot give you further infor- method.
Watchmaker Accessories mation on the case. Had you included It was also possible to remove
a good, clear photo of the hallmarks the brass guard that protects the rest of
on the inside back cover, I might have the clock and glass sided case (when
been able to give the year in which it has these perishable case sides). Then
the case, at least, was hallmarked from the various sizes of C-rings can be slipped
the date-letter stamp. over the tightened, wound up spring.
The click is then carefully released to
cause the spring to spread out into
this retaining clamp.
If the spring was broken, then
Call or Write for FREE Catalog the wire binding is a good and safe
I'm working on an Ansonia
hobby products co.
A Division of Emco Maier Corporation
P.O. Box 218117 Dept. HT
Q alarm carriage clock. The exact
clock is shown on page 161
of Ehrhardt's Qock Identification and
method.
Henry B. Fried

Columbus OH 43221-8117 614/771-5996 Price Guide Book, No. 1, bottom row

"Carriage" Extra Nickel.

8 Horological Times/January 1989

 ··cLEAN
p\aS1.I \he Answe~ •llovements
. p\ast\C '"'
\O C\ea0\09 Maximum Cleaning Power
With the Airbrush Systems

PLASTIC MOVEMENT CLEANING

PlastiCLEAN
PlastiCLEAN is a high purity, rapid
penetrating cleaning solvent espe-
cially suited for cleaning plastic
QUARTZ WATCH MOVEMENTS. The
microscopic cleaning action of Plas-
tiCLEAN allows it to penetrate tiny
crevices, lifting out grease and resi-
due. PlastiCLEAN'S high stability
makes it an ideal degreaser for plastic
QUARTZ WATCH MOVEMENTS. For
use with QC-150C and QC-250P air- To clean the quartz movement, spray PlastiCLEAN
brush systems. solvent directly into the gear train while rotating the
Non-flammable, Non-conductive, movement for a total of about ten seconds. IMMEDl-
Non-corrosive, Non-toxic. ATELY blow off any remaining solvent with a suit-
able dry filtered air supply.
*Use PlastiCLEAN as a wash or with the air-
brush systems. QC-PL17 (17 oz.} ..... $13.95

METAL MOVEMENT CLEANING

QUARTZ CLEAN
QUARTZ CLEAN is a
high purity, heavy duty,
rapid penetrating clean-
ing solvent. The low
specific gravity and high
stability makes QUARTZ
CLEAN an excellent de-
greaser especially for
metal QUARTZ WATCH
Compressor Adaptor Kit Propellant Adaptor Kit
MOVEMENTS. The high Kit Includes: Kit Includes:
solvent power quickly Dual-Action Air-brush Dual-Action Air-brush
dissolves oils, greases, Quartz Clean Solvent (1 qt.) Quartz Clean Solvent (1qt.)
(For cleaning metal movements) (For cleaning metal movements)
waxes, fats and resins. 2 oz. Jar with cover 2 oz. Jar with cover
For use with QC-150C Movement Grippers Movement Grippers
and QC-250P air-brush Air-brush Holder Air-brush Holder
systems. Compressor Air-Hose Teflon Air-Hose
1/4" female pipe thread fitting Air Regulator
Non-flammable, Non-
(Adapts brush to compressor or Propellant Air Can (28 oz.)
conductive, Non-corro- C02tank) . QC-PL17 Not Included
sive. In-line Moisture Filter QC-250P .................. $129.95
QC-PL17 Not Included
QC32 (1qt.) ... $14.95 QC-150C .. ,.........•....... $115.95
 HOW HARD IS A BUSHING?
By

Robert L. Macomber, CMC, CMBHI

uring the past year or so there have been Since, in Rockwell testing, the higher the

D many articles in various horological journals,

including the Horological Times, concerning
the superiority of bronze over brass clock bushings.
reading the harder the material, the results show
that the American-made brass bushing is harder than
the other two tested by almost 50%.
The controversy rages on and it is hoped this article As a further test, material was obtained from
will help those who are undecided. the American manufacturer which had not been
Recently, American-made brass bushings have hole-drilled and machined. Rockwell tests of this ma-
become available which are not only harder than terial showed a hardness rating of 75.0. This shows
imported products but are about half the price. These that additional machining of the brass increases the
are sold under the name "The System." After obtain- hardness, a fact well known to clockmakers. In ad-
ing an initial supply it seemed appropriate to apply dition, the use of the brass rod through the bushing
Rockwell hardness tests to these new bushings and hole did not appreciably distort the hardness readings.
compare the hardness rating to others available. Of interest is the finai comparison test of
The tests were conducted on a standard bronze bushings which were specially manufactured
Rockwell Hardness Tester using a 100 kilogram load by KWM on a special order in 1982. The hardness
with a l / 16-inch steel ball and obtaining the readings rating!> for these bronze bushings was 80.2, only
from the "B" scale. For those unfamiliar with Rock- about 5 points higher than "The System" brass bush-
well hardness testing, the 100 kilogram load, the 1/16- ings manufactured in the United States.
inch steel ball penetrator, and "B" scale are used with In conclusion, it is obvious that "The System''
soft metals or alloys such as brass, bronze, soft steel, American-made bushings are about 50% harder than
and cast iron. In testing hardened steel a different imported brass or bronze bushings which are readily
load is used, the penetrator is diamond-tipped, and available from material houses, and in order to ob-
the "A" scale is used to read the hardness rating. tain higher hardness, one has to arrange for special
In order to test the bushings it was necessary manufacture. UCIB
to allow the penetrator to impact on the side of the
bushing. To minimize the compression on the bushing
hole during load application, a brass rod was machined
to fit snugly inside the bushing hole. The same brass
rod stock was used on all tests and each bushing size
was subjected to at least three tests. The readings of EDITOR'S NOTE: This article tends to indicate
each test were then averaged and the results are pre- that hardest is best. There are many, however, who
sented below: believe that this is not so. For example, something
must wear when foreign material gets between the
BUSHING TYPE & SIZE MANUFACTURER ROCKWELL pivot and the bushing. If the foreign material embeds
READING
KWM Brass No. 110 KWM 50.3
itself into the pivot, the bearing will wear, and vice
Bergeon Bronze No. 45 {KWM) Bergeon 54.2
versa.
"The System" No. 22 (KWM) Dakat & Co. 75.3

10 Horological Times/January 1989

 INTRODUCING THE AMERICAN BRASS BUSHING SYSTEM
Our high quality American .Made brass bushings are over 35% harder than German bushings! They're full hard
brass and are machined on state of the art precision equipment. Each bushing is fully finished with an oil sink
and is guaranteed to be the finest quality available. They're completely interchangeable with KW.M reamers as
well as their entire system so there's no need to buy new and expensive equipment. There are 50 bushings of one
size in a package. All numbers correspond to the KW.M numbers (with the exceptfDn of the new, longer bushings).
Example: IA3=#43. Order in quantity for discounts. Please use our part numbers to avoid conji.tsfDn. FREE
DELIVERY! Do you want a closer look? Just send a business size self addressed stamped envelope for a free
sample. •JUST ARRIVED••• try our new bushing assortments. 100 bushings to a box. A great ooluel
NEW HEIGHT For Thicker Plates MUSIC MOVEMENT GOVERNORS
3.5Qmm Height 2.7QMM O.D Bore
Our governor aaacm·
No. 17056 .............. NEW l.lmm bUcs allow you to re·
No. 17057 .............. NEW l.2mm place worn or dam·
No. 17058 .............. NEW l.3nnn aged governors and
still keep the same
.KW.M#2 Reamer (l.78mm O.D.) No. 17059 .............. NEW l.4rnm tune In your custom-
1.40mm Height 1.BOmm O.D. Bore No. 17060 .............. NEW l.5rnm ers clock. The small governors flt 18 tooth music
movements. The large governors flt 22 and 36
No. 17076 ................ #64 0.3nnn No. 17061 .............. NEW l.6mm tooth music movements. Mix sizes for discounts.
No. 17070 .................. #8 0.4nnn No. 17062 .............. NEW 1. 7nnn FREE DEUVERYI
No. 17069 .................. #9 0.5nnn No. 17063 .............. NEW l.8mm N>.14495 ~
l'h 14496 ::mall
No. 17027 ................ #10 0.6mm No. 17064 .............. NEW l.9mm $2.7Smch
No. 17028 ................ #11 0.7mm KW.MM Reamer (3.48mm O.D.) trr.50/ 3 ($2.50)
1.40mm Height 3.5Qmm O.D. Bore $24.00/ 12 ($2.00)
No. 17029 ................ #12 0.8mm
No. 17030 ................ #13 0.9mm No. 17032 ................ #22 2.0mm HERMLE 2ND WHEELS

~~~
No. 17031 ................ #65 l.Omm No. 17033 ................ #69 2. lnnn
l.9Qmm HeJgbt l.8Qmm O.D. Bore No. 17074 ................ #23 2.2mm
No. 17071 ................ #32 0.5mm No. 17034 ................ #70 2.3nnn
No. 17072 ................ #33 0.6mm No. 17035 ................ #24 2.4mm
No. 17073 ................ #34 0. 7nnn No. 17079 ................ #71 2.5nnn
No. 17066 ................ #35 0.8mm No. 17036 ................ #25 2.6mm
No. 17067 ................ #36 0.9mm No. 17037 ................ #72 2. 7nnn
l'h 14385
No. 17068 ................ #37 l.Onnn 1.9Qmm Height 3.!5Qmm O.D. Bore We now stock a selection of second wheels for the
KW.M #3 Reamer (2.68mm O.D.) No. 17038 ................ #45 2.0mm most popular Hermie movements. These are facto-
1.4Qmm Het@t 2.7Qmm O.D. Bore No. 17039 ................ #90 2.lmm ry fresh, cwrent production parts and are guaran-
teed to flt In place of the or1glnals. They are proper-
No. 17065 ................ #14 l.Omm No. 17075 ................ #46 2.2nnn ly hardened and finished by the HermZ. factory
No. 17000 ................ #15 l.lmm No. 17040 ................ #91 2.3nnn and, with the addition of our new American bush-
No. 17001 ................ #16 l.2mm No. 17041 ................ #47 2.4nnn ings. will Insure the eUmlnatlon of your come back
problems on these Hermie movements. Mix num·
No. 17002 ................ #17 l.3mm No. 17080 ................ #92 2.5nnn bers for quantity discounts. Guaranteed to fit.
No. 17003 ................ #18 l.4mm No. 17042 ................ #48 2.6nnn FREE DEU\IERYI
No. 17004 ................ #19 l.5mm No. 17043 ................ #93 2.7mm 340-020 HerrnJ. movement:
l'h 14383 --·---------Strike 2ndWhcd
No. 17005 ................ #20 l.6mm 2.7Qmm Height 3.5Qmm O.D. Bore l'h 14384 ·--·-----Tm:2ndWhcd
No. 17006 ................ #67 1.7mm No. 17044 .............. #109 2.0mm l'h 1 4 3 8 5 - - - - - - -- Odlnc2ndWhcd
$3.00eACh
No. 17007 ................ #21 l.8mm No. 17045 .............. #110 2.lmm i/IJ.70/ 3($2.90)
No. 17008 ................ #68 l.9mm No. 17077 .............. #111 2.2mm $33.00/ 12 ($2. 75)
l.9Qmm Height 2.70mm O.D. Bore No. 17046 .............. # 112 2.3mm. •Minimum order is $15.00. Minimum charge card
No. 17009 ................ #38 l. lmm No. 17047 .............. #113 2.4nnn order is $25.00. Illinois residents add 6 314% tax.
No. 17010 ................ #39 l.2mm No. 17081 .............. #114 2.5mm • All material is GUARANTEED 100%/
No. 17011 ................ #40 l.3mm No. 17048 .............. #115 2.6mm • Orders are DEUVERED FREE and insured
No. 17012 ................ #41 l.4mm No. 17049 .............. #116 2.7mm. within the 48 continental United States via United
Parcel Service.
No. 17013 ................ #42 l.5mm NEW HEIGHT For Thicker Plates
•Orders snipped outside the U.S. or via the
No. 17014 ................ #43 l.6mm 3.5Qmm Height. 3.5Qmm O.D. Bore Postal Service are F.O.B. Algonquin, IL
No. 17015 ................ #88 1. 7mm No. 17050 .............. NEW 2.<mm • Prices and descriptions are subject to change
No. 17016 ................ #44 l.8mm No. 17051 .............. NEW 2. lmm without notice.
No. 17017 ................ #89 l.9mm No. 17078 .............. NEW 2.2rnm Send $2.00 to receive our latest catalog.
2.70mm Height 2.70mm O.D. Bore No. 17052 .............. NEW 2.3rnm (free with any order}
No. 17018 .............. #100 l. lmm No. 17053 .............. NEW 2.4nnn BOX 469
No. 17019 .............. #101 l.2mm No. 17082 .............. NEW 2.5mm
No. 17020 .............. #102
No. 17021 .............. #103
No. 17022 .............. #104
No. 17023 .............. #105
No. 17024 .............. #106
l.3mm
l.4mm
l.5mm
l.6mm
l.7mm
No. 17054 .............. NEW
No. 17055 .............. NEW
$6.00 each pack of 50
$17.25/ 3 packs ($5.75)
2.6mm
2.7nnn
;11£9L
TIMESAVERS
,,,
No. 17025 .............. #107 l.Bmm $33.00/ 6 packs ($5.50)
No. 17026 .............. #108 l.9mm $60.00/ 12 packs ($5.00)
50 bushings in a package. •Assortments of 100 bushings are now
available. 10 each of 10 different sizes
In stockfor immediate in a convenient partitioned storage box:
FREE DEUVERY in the 48 No. 11604.............................. # 14 tluough #68 ALGONQUIN, IL 60102 U.S.A.
Continental United States. No. 11605.............................. #37 tluough #89
$12.00 each assortment
PHONE: 312-658-2266
FAX: 312-658-9033

January 1989/Horologi.cal Times 11

BULLETI I put the screw about 1/3 the way down the pipe and the nail
about 1/3 the way up from the bottom of the pipe, very much like
the ones that come from the factory. I drill a small hole through the
OARD side of the clock and through the side of the whistle pipe so they do
not split, and put the screw in against the case (moderately snug).
Then I use water pump pliers to squeeze the nail in (no hammering
A. NEW REQUESTS or you may have some trim loose or broken). One jaw should be on
the nail head and the other jaw across the side of the clock, resting
EXCESSNE SPRING BARREL WEAR? on the side of the pipe inside the clock. I use old bellows tops wood
Tom Perkins asks whether others are experiencing wear in laid against the pipe so the plier jaws do not crush the pipe. After
the spring barrels of some modern German-made clock squeezing in the nail, I remove the screw (leaving the nail a position-
movements. He reports excessive side shake between the ing dowel like the older factory jobs).
barrel covers and arbors similar to the catastrophic plate Now, double up a turkish towel on the workbench so you don't
break the front trim. Lay the clock face-down on the towel (cuckoo
wear that David Arnold wrote about in 1982. AWi has not and music door locked shut, and if a hunting model, remove the large
had complaints on this subject and would like to hear from bell of the fox horn so it doesn't get broken). Take a large size pock-
others if they are having such a problem, and if so, with et knife with a thin, large blade. Start at the top of the pipe, between
which particular clocks? the pipe and side of the clock. Put firm pressure on and cut (not
pry) down. If it's really glued tight, cut upward too until it splits
out or loose. Sometimes you are lucky and the glue lets go before
IDENTIFICATION OF GERMAN-MADE CLOCK it splinters. It doesn't splinter too bad; it just leaves some ribbed
Lewis Johnson seeks to identify the maker of a German- matching surfaces. When the nail and screw are fitted first, the ribs
made clock using a logo which he describes as follows: (grooves) fit nicely. Take a little care and brace yourself so the knife
displays a half moon with the letters D.R.G.M. around it doesn't hit the nail when it splits loose.
below that is a lion and below the lion is U.M. Some clocks staple the pipes in to hold it steady while the glue
below the U.M. is the number 177580 dried. I do not put the nail in these. Only the screw. After the pipe
below this is the word "Germany" and bellows is out, use a thin scribe and open the openings a little
on the pipe where the staple was so you can slip the pipe back in
DETAILS ABOUT "THE MOUSE IN THE CLOCK" over the two legs of the staple easily. Lately there have been a few
clocks with the screw in it and no nail (and glued). I put in the nail
Howard Crofoot if seeking information about a clock and remove the screw before splitting them out.
called "The Mouse in the Clock." It is made by Dugan-
Clump, an old manufacturer from Philadelphia, PA. AWi MICROTEST QUARTZ WATCH TESTER
has a replica of this clock marketed for a number of years Clay Johnson, Jr. of O'Neill, NE also offered detailed ob-
by the Horolovar Company of Bronxville, NY, but we have servations about the problem our member was having
nothing on the Dugan-Clump version. with the operation of this piece of equipment on certain
watches.
B. RESPONSES
We continued to receive responses to our requests for in- C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED
formation about Hamilton 500 and 505 energy cells, SUC
catalogs, Accutron Coils, and the American Clock Company TOWER CLOCK MOTOR
(Chicago). All of these responses have been forwarded to Our Whittier, CA member has another problem for which
the persons asking for help, and they have been added to he seeks help. He was called to repair a tower clock that
our resource file. We join with the members who have been uses a very well manufactured gear box. The motor is not
helped by the responses we have received in extending our the usual type. It is an E.C.M. motor, model S, making
sincere thanks! one RPM, using 117 volts with a 68 mfd capacitor. It is
model 4766D. The manufacturer in Schaumburg, IL will
SWARTCHILD & CO. MATERIAL CABINET ID CHART sell him a thousand of them, but not just one. Can anyone
Phil Pfenning from St. Marys, OH was good enough to hand name a source from which he can purchase a single motor?
copy the chart on his assortment so that we could send it
to our member in New Jersey. Several others offered to NEW HAVEN CALENDAR CLOCK
send their old Swartchild catalogs to see if the information An Indianapolis, IN member is seeking information about
in them would be helpful. the calendar mechanism for a New Haven calendar clock
(shown below). The calendar seems to be complete ex-
REGULA CUCKOO CLOCK BELLOWS PROBLEM cept for the star wheel. Since he will probably have to make
A few people responded with their method for removing a star wheel, he would appreciate complete information
the bellows that apparently is glued into the case of these about the calendar mechanism which will enable him to
newer clocks. Surprisingly, most all developed the same or determine that he has all of the parts and that they are
similar methods of solving the problem. The most com- assembled correctly.
plete response came from Clay Johnso:n, Jr. of O'Neill,
NE. We are reproducing his response in its entirety; it in-
corporates most of the ideas expressed in the other re- DO YOU HAVE INFORMATION
REGARDING TIHS MONTH'S REQUESTS?
sponses we received. If so, send the information to the address below.
Regarding the question on the Regula cuckoo clocks with glued-
in pipes: I have removed dozens of them the last few years and al- DO YOU NEED INFORMATION
ways use them over again. Here's my method: ABOUT ONE OF TIDS MONTH'S ~PONSES?
Before trying to take them out, I put the nail and screw in the If so, send an S.A.S.E. and your request to
side of the clock into the bellows so they fasten in exactly the same
position they were because some wood splinters when they are BULLETIN BOARD - HOROLOGICAL TIMES
3700 Harrison Avenue
taken out; the splinters and grooves match up nicely and after put- Cincinnati, OH 45211
ting them back in you don't see the mess at all.

12 Horological Times/January 1989

 AWi YOU DON'T NEED
REFERRAL THIS TOOL!
SERVICE (if you have 3 hands)

Robert L. Macomber
CMC

obility aptly describes the curren_t. popula~ion of

M the United States. People are retiring earlier and

moving to new locales, and businesses are moving
their employees all over the country.
Many customers who are moving wish to know of a
reliable clockmaker or watchmaker to care for their time-
keepers. In moving a clock, for example, proper packing is
essential to insure safe arrival and proper setup at the new lo-
cation. Grampa'a heirloom pocket watch which many people
are using will need periodic servicing. Who can our customers
turn to? How about AWi members?
At the most recent Annual Meeting, your AWi
Directors decided to establish a Referral Service which you can
offer to your customers. The formation of the Service depends
entirely on you, the AWi member. Here's how the Service
would work:
1) Each AWi member who wishes to be included
should fill out a simple form found on this month's
mailing envelope and forward it to AWi Central.
The information provided would be name, address, 2"""', jftaa.

telephone number, specialty, and certification if --····--··'·"9·,

.. ~.~

'i:r"''-'-c:====-~
appropriate.
2) A file by zip code would be established at AWi
Central. Upon inclusion in the file AWi Central
HOWEVER; when you need an extra hand,
will send you confirmation of your participation
This could be just the tool required.
in the Service. An appropriate counter card ad-
A hand vise made specifically for the
vising your customers of the Service will be pro-
assembly and disassembly of the new
vided for your shop or store.
style link bands which use screws.
3) Upon a request from your customer for a reli-
This vise is fitted with an adjustable
able clockmaker or watchmaker, ask for the cus-
table to accept different band thick-
tomer's new zip code. Then you contact AWi
nesses. Manufactured by BERGEON, one
Central for a listing of AWi members in the zip
of the finest names in the precision
code and adjacent zip coded area. tool industry.
4) Give this listing to your customer and wish him
well. It should be explained to the customer that Vise only with one blade ........ $21-95
this listing carries no recommendation but rather Vise complete with 4 blades, screwdriver
signifies that the name is that of an AWi member
and wooden stand ............... $42.95
who has access to the latest technical informa-
tion necessary to perform reliable service work. Order by No. 6607
ucrn
DISTRIBUTED BY:

SINCE 1877
BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL ray gaber co.
220 West King Street, Lancaster, PA 17603 800 PENN AVE . • PITTSBURGH, PA 15222 e 412/281·4323
Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving
Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing CALL TOLL FREE
Advanced Stonesetting Techniques
Send for free brochure. An Equal Opportunity Facility PA 800-792-2820
NATIONAL 800-245-5090

January 1989/Horological Times 13

WATCHE~

Dealing With Hairsprings

f a hairspring is broken or defective, the watchmaker one-half of a centimeter.)

I usually replaces the complete balance with a new

balance-hairspring assembly. This saves time and
restores original timekeeping properties of the balance, pro-
What is the C.G.S. number used for? Because it is
an objective yardstick of the elastic properties of a given
spring, it permits the watchmakers to find the "correct"
vided an original or suitable replacement is available. hairspring for a given timepiece with a little bit of experi-
Once in a while, however, the watchmaker is called mentation. All the watchmaker has to do is to take any trial
upon to replace just the hairspring of an old heirloom watch spring whose C.G.S. number is known to him, mount it on
of unknown calibre. In such cases a suitable replacement must the balance of the watch to be repaired, and vibrate the
be ordered by its C.G.S. number. Armed with the following spring until it gives the right count (i.e., usually 5 or 6 half
information, which appeared in a WOSJC Digest published oscillations per second). He then measures the radius of the
a number of years ago, the watchmaker may not find it as trial spring (i.e., the distance from the center of the spring
difficult a task as it first seemed to be. If the watchmaker re- to regulator pins).Once he knows this radius, he can calculate
quires a refresher course on all of the aspects of hairspring the C.G.S. number of the "correct" hairspring for the watch.
vibration, Chapter IV of Henry B. Fried's Bench Practices The "correct" hairspring is one which not only has the correct
For Watch and Oockmakers will provide that information. C.G.S. number, but also the correct radius. The radius, of
The C.G.S. number refers to a system of units which course, must be equal in length to the distance between the
is widely used by physicists all over the world. The abbre- regulator pins and the center of the hairspring.
viation stands for "centimeter, gram, seconds" which are How is the C.G.S. number of the desired hairspring
units of measure that indicate length, mass and time. calculated? This is easy if the following formula is used:
Why was the C.G.S. numbering system introduced? No. of Correct Spring=
Its purpose was to facilitate the ordering of replacement
No. of Trial Spring (Radius of Correct Spring)2
hairsprings. If the watchmaker of years gone by did not want
(Radius of Trial Sprmg)2
to manufacture a replacement spring, he was faced with the
task of obtaining a suitable replacement spring from one of Example: The known C.G.S. number of the trial spring is
the early balance spring factories. Each factory had their own 1.2. It gives the correct oscillation count at a radius of 2.9
numbering system, and some had various numbering systems millimeters. To suit the existing balance, the "correct" spring
for various types of hairsprings. Nobel Prize winner, C.E. must have a radius of 2.5 millimeters. What is its C.G.S.
Guillaume, urged the adoption of a uniform system of springs number?
based on the C.G.S. system of measurements. No. of Correct Spring =
What is the C.G.S. number of a hairspring? This is
a number indicating the "strength" of a given diameter. To 1. 2 x C2 -5 ); = 75 = 89179 9
(2.9) 8.41 · or·
be more exact, it indicates the "elastic moment" of a hair-
spring at a diameter of one centimeter when the spring is The materials dealer has a list of the numbers of available
deflected by a one-half centimeter long arc of a circle. (The springs, and the watchmaker will order a spring with the
"elastic moment," incidentally, equals the force the spring number nearest to the number .9, which he has calculated to
exerts, expressed in grams, multiplied by the radius, which is be "right."

14 Horological Times/January 1989

 Is this procedure complicated? It is less complicated
than it appears on paper. It boils down to (a) experimenting
with a trial spring of known number until the oscillation
count is correct, (b) measuring its radius, ( c) determilling the
radius of "correct" spring, ( d) calculating its correct number
by using the formula.

PRACTICAL HINTS
Since, in the formula, the radii appear both in the
numerator and the denominator, they don't have to be mea-
sured in millimeters or centimeters. Other units of measure,
such as sixteenths of an inch, are just as good. In a workshop WATCH
where it is frequently necessary to calculate spring numbers, it
is worth investing a few dollars in the purchase of a well
chosen range of trial springs. Here is a sample assortment.
BATTERIES
Precision Engineered for Accurate Time Keeping!
The C.G.S. numbers are given alongside the sizes of the cor-
responding watch movements.

Trial Springs Movement Sizes 301

C.G.S. number .140 516 lines 303
C.G.S. number .25 7 lines
C.G.S. number .45 8~ lines 309
C.G.S. number .9 1016 lines 313
C.G.S. number 2.0 13 lines
C.G.S. number 5.6 16 lines 315
C.G.S. number 16.0 19 lines 317

'UOI3 319
321
323
WATCHMAKERS - JEWELERS 325
How long would it take you to diagnose the following
329
watches using your present test equipment?
341

••••
• 1,-...... ~,.
.. 1000. •
,,...... ,c11(li•
c~
·~· '

343
$10 Minimum
Order
On All

••••
"• OR rt n ll A• •1•1
.. ONrACT •11.1u•1
Batteries

With lnnovative's Quartz Watch Tester, model WT-100

you could diagnose them all - in seconds -
without removing any watch components. Q ..

•
I Your Headquarters For:
Watch Movements, Watch Materials,
Findings & Fillings,

I
.~

...,.,.
1--· ..-· Tools & Watch Supplies!
·--
~--
. "Everything For The Watchmaker"

Quartz Watch Tester Model WT-100 TOLEDO JEWELERS

Typical product features: 245 Twenty-Third St., P.O. Box 973
• Tests watches with or without batteries Toledo, Ohio 43696
• Tests batteries in or out of watches
• Easy to use - no adjustments to rnake
• Tests components without removal
• One year warranty (Special prices good thru Jan. 31.1988)
• Made in the USA
• Inexpensive - only $49.95 TOLL FREE ORDERING ...
(plus $2.00 postage & handling) OHIO 800-472-0120 OTHERS 800-537-0260
INNOVATIVE ELECTRONICS
64-46 84th Street, Flushing, NY 11379

January 1989/Horological Times 15

 CLOCKS 11"Aide s Out!
Gerhard M. Hutter, CMW, FBHI

A Waterwheel Clock
Glll he watch and clockmaking profession is alive and comprised of four parts: a channel 6.5mm wide and 12mm
JIL well, and there are many timepieces produced every
~ long, a piece of round tubing 7mm long and 6.5mm in di-
year. Some are made by hand and by one person. ameter, a short piece of 1.5mm tubing for the hinge, and a
There is always a market for unusual and well-made watches pin that is 0.7mm thick.
and clocks. The release lever at the bottom movement works
In the last ten years, I have designed and executed a similarly to an Austrian quarter-striking clock and does not
variety of skeleton clocks. An exposed movement intrigues have a warning like in most French-striking clocks. The ratchet
most people and they like to watch the escapement. The range wheel, which has 60 teeth and is located behind the center
in clocks goes from a simple timepiece with Harrison's Grass- wheel, pulls a lever slowly backwards. This lever is spring-
hopper Escapement, to complicated astromonical clocks. loaded and, when let go after one minute, engages another
An orrery driven by a half hour striking movement, or an lever that releases the third wheel. The wheel is now free, com-
Astrolabe with perpetual calendar, it's up to the individuals pletes one revolution, and locks again. The second wheel
to make their constructions as simple or complicated as moves one-ninth of a revolution and the chain, driven by this
desired. wheel, moves for one link. A ball rolls out of the top link,
Let's take the Astrolabe as an example and a few of down the inclined channel, and into a space on top of the
its features: solar time, star time, the dragon year, 25 fixed waterwheel.
stars, equation of time, a barometer, the perpetual calendar
wtih day, date, month phases of the moon, and leap year
correction. Oh, I forgot, it only needs winding once a month.
Clockmaking is a labor of love, bringing enjoyment
and, at times, frustration. Sometimes we get paid for our
labors; sometimes it's only for love. If anybody can make a
living doing what he loves, so much the better.
My latest design is a Waterwheel Clock which incor-
porates two conventional movements. The one that sits on
top and looks similar to a waterwheel is the actual time-
keeper. This wheel also ~olds the 5.5mm stainless steel balls
that give the power and: drive the pendulum. The second
movement is hidden in the mahogany box that measures
240mm in length, 120mm in depth, and 90mm in height.
On the bottom of the base a molding is attached with brass
trim at each corner. Underneath the molding are adjustable
feet for leveling.
Secured to a 1.5mm thick brass plate are all the com-
ponents of the clock. With the removal of two screws, the
complete clock can be lifted out of its base.
The power source is a mainspring 35mm wide,
0.46mm strong, and 2, 140mm long that gives power over a
stainless steel cable to a fusee with maintaining power. The
running time calculated is 8% days and can transport 12,240
balls with one winding.
The second wheel has a chain wheel attached to its
side that drives the chain consisting of 43 links. Each link is

16 Horological Times/January 1989

 About 30 seconds later a ball drops out of the bot-
tom shovel of the waterwheel, rolls down the three inclined
channels, and into an empty link in the base of the chain.
There are always 19 balls on top of the wheel, but only eight
are necessary and give enough power to drive the heavy
pendulum.
SAVE
Both movements work together--the lower one gives
the power to move the steel balls and the upper one is driven
through the weight of the balls. This movement will also
$66.00!
regulate the drop of the balls and give impulse to move the
chain.
The Graham dead beat escapement, employed for
accurate timekeeping, uses a very heavy pendulum made out
of a condensed bronze ball, one inch in diameter, usually
used in valves in laboratory applications. BERGEON CRYSTAL PRESS
This type of escapement is not difficult to design From Bergeon! The complete press for fitting
or to construct and gives excellent timing results. With a
unbreakable crystals - with or without tension
rings. Heavy duty die cast press controls
pendulum length of 130mm the beat is 165 times a minute.
pressure for safe and perfect fits. The stakes
are formed so as to provide a careful fit over
The wheel count is as follows: the crystal while protecting the case from
Center wheel 110 teeth scratches or damage. 30 different metal and
Interm. wheel 96 teeth Pinion 8 leaves plastic stakes provide the variety of combina-
Escape wheel 30 teeth Pinion 8 leaves tions necessary to fit almost any crystal. Can
also be used for simple friction case closing.
The wheel count in the base is as follows: Modern watches need modern machinery.
Main wheel 96 teeth This is it! And at a special price. Regular
First wheel 80 teeth Pinion 10 leaves price $230.00. SPECIAL PRICE $164.00.
Second wheel 72 teeth Pinion 8 leaves
YOU SA VE $66.00!
Third wheel 60 teeth Pinion 8 leaves
5500A ................... . ..... $164.00

BERGE ON!
Fly Pinion 8 leaves

The dial looks suspended in midair, but a piece of

PlexiglasTM supports the skeletonized dial. Many time-con-
suming tasks can be made easier with the help of power
tools. For crossing out wheels, cutting out plates, and trim-
ming pieces, a Hegner scroll saw with infinite speed con-
trol is easy to use. Some of the finishing was also done with
an Aero tool driven by 30 pounds of air, which has a turbine
spinning at up to 480,000 RPM. The burrs made out of
carbide or charged with diamond powder are widely used in MINERAL GLASS CRYSTAL ASSORTMENT
dentistry. I use this little wonder freehand in a lathe or milling New! 60 piece Bergeon assortment of very
popular mineral glass watch crystals - the ones
machine, and also in an engraving machine. Because of its
needed every day for the modern quartz
high speed, no deburring is necessary.
watches. Assortments contain 60 round
There are no high numbered wheels or pinions in crystals .9mm thick in sizes 26.1 mm diameter
any of my clocks. Great care is taken to cut all gears to exact to 32.0mm increasing in size by 0.1 mm. The
proportions. They are tested in a depthing tool in vertical regular assortment contains 33 pieces and sells
·position. When even a small error exists, they are remade. for $70.00. Special! You receive almost
All are made with the least frictional loss in mind. double that number for only a few dollars
Friction is a very important part in every clock. more. Refills always available.
High-precision, miniature ball bearings help to solve that 095005 ..................... $84.50 asst.
problem. Some bearings are only 3mm in outside diameter,

-4i'l l \'~ .
and screws hold them in place. All the rest have a light friction
fit to prevent distortion.
For the wheels and plates, half-hard brass is best; for
trim pieces, skim stock made out of spring brass is easier for
S. (LaRoseJ Inc.
Worldwide Distributors to Ho1·ologists
sawing out filigree works.
'~\IJ/Z:;;;/
All screws are stainless steel and highly polished.
234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, NC, 27420, U.S.A.
The pinions are made out of SAE 1144 steel which has a Phone (919) 2 75-0462
high manganese and carbon content. It can be quenched in
water or oil to give the desirable hardness and toughness.
(Continued on next page)
January 1989/Horological Times 17
CLOCK TBOUBLESHOOTJNC PART FOUR

A DIAGNOSTIC Leo A. Jaroslaw

SYSTEMS APPI~OACH*
EDITOR'S NOTE: Since the October 1988 issue of Horological of continuous chiming or striking. The reader may want to re-
Times we have presented a series of articles on clock trouble- view earlier segments of the series to insure competence in using
shooting by Leo A. Jaroslaw. During the series, Mr. Jaroslaw has the flow chart system to troubleshoot problems with clocks.
explained his flow chart system of clock troubleshooting and We would welcome comments from the readers to de-
"walked" the reader through the process. termine whether they find this system helpful in their work and
In this segment Mr. J aroslaw assumes that the reader understanding of various problems encountered in clock ser-
is now familiar with the system; thus, he presents a flow chart vicing. If so, perhaps a complete series dealing with a wide
on a Herschede 5 and 9 Tube movement which has the problem variety of problems and calibres can be developed.

TROUBLESHOOTING FLOW CHART 1 - HERSCH EDE 5 & 9 TUBE MOVEMENTS

Problem: Continuous chiming/striking

continuous observe
chiming I action of
striking gathering pallet
on rack

one or more
teeth 11JOrn
(short) L-- - - rack stop action
assembly by removing
weight

gatrn>ring replace END

pallet slips examine faces
gathering
on shaft CAUTIDN: of hook and
pallet resoove only a
locking tooth
small amount
at a time - -
RED'£0<
CAUTION:
~ wear
damage to gather
cracked
gathering ing pallet shaft file rcxnled
dress or replace area flat and
as necessar y
rc12s level -
emery smooth

Many thanks to Mr. Christopher Rycroft for en-

CLOCKS INSIDE AND OUT
(Continued from previous page) graving all the dials to my exact specifications and to Mr.
Burton at Thornton's for always coming up with the correct
The pinions were cut with a half-automatic, gear- cutters for module gears and my escapement design. New
cutting engine made by Star in Switzerland. For steel, a Hampshire Ballbearings went out of their way to send a sales-
cutting fluid is essential. The circular cutters from Thornton's man to find the best suitable bearings and, in particular, the
in England have been my favorites for many years. lubricants.
Goldplating the chain, the four channels, and the I only hope this article will encourage more people
waterwheel prevent them from oxidizing. All other brass to come forward and enter their accomplishments at the next
parts received two coats of clear lacquer for protection. national convention.
The barometer and the thermometer are strictly decorative
and have no bearing on the performance of the clock.

18 Horological Times/January 1989

 TROUBLESHOOTING FLOW CHART 2 - HERSCH EDE 5 & 9 TUBE MOVEMENTS
Problem: Continuous chiming/striking (cont'd)

check for
correct lock -
reassemble hoolc - racic leel
ireet parallel &
Hush

re-file
and
emery smooth smooth

~
remove only
small amount at
a time-- ·
recheck quar
rack hook
release from
FCf2P,,> - - - . - - - - - - - - - i self adjusting
lever assy on
the hour

self adjusting check nine t.me

lever and the through all
pin on the cyl-
lndl>r - self three chime
adjU!lt or sequences ENO
corr<!Ct the
ChitrK! se e

arreccs
release in all
conUroous
chime sequences
chiming only

*By Leo A. Jaroslaw. All rights reserved by

author. ©1989

ARE YOU OLD ENOUGH TO REMEMBER WHEN •••

BACK ORDERS FOR WATCH PARTS WERE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN?

It's really surprising to hear that people have problems getting watch parts.
It is true that many distributors have cut back on their stock of watch material,
while emphasizing the more lucrative jewelry and diamond lines. Twin City
Supply has remained in the watch parts field, ·expanding to accomodate the
new quartz technology. Through the years, we have also purchased the stock
of other material houses, and continue to inventory the older watch parts as
well as the so called "hard to find' Japanese watch material.
The next time you're having problems, give us a try.
Some of our new customers are surprised to find that our orders are shipped
nearly 100% complete. We are not surprised. We stock what we sell.

u~ TWIN CITY SUPPLY

PHONE AREA CODE 612/545-2725 TOLL FREE MERCHANDISE ORDERING

l~I
T W I N CO
NATIONWIDE 800/328-6009 MINNESOTA 800/862-8139
6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis MN 55416

January 1989/Horologi.cal Times 19

[}{]@@@~
[¥)@@@~
lb©@@~
John A. Nagle

RIGHT FROM THE START

HE KNEW IT WAS A SETUP

f you are just starting out in business and things are O.K., you have received your first shipment of

I sort of slow, or if you are just a real go-getter, you

might decide to get involved in factory warranty
work or setup work for local stores selling floor clocks. Should
clocks from the factory and just can't wait to get them into
the showroom and start selling them. Be patient! Carefully
unpack each clock and start your visual check. You should be
you decide to get involved in this part of the clock business, it looking at the clock with the same critical attitude that a
will greatly benefit you to work up a how-to sheet based on customer will have. Look for dents and scratches in the case.
the following article to give to the people who are selling the Sometimes these can be touched up with a little Old English
clocks. It will be very important to you that the store owners Scratch Guard®. Put a little of the polish on a rag and rub it
and the sales people understand what clocks are all about. This into the scratch. Buff dry with a soft rag and the scratch
type of work can be very profitable but you will have to should now blend in with the overall finish. If the clock has
observe the following tips to avoid time-consuming pitfalls. major gouges or deep scratches, notify the company that
Before getting involved at all, be sure that you know you are not satisfied and return the clock to them. Always
where your payment is coming from. The factory is usually notify the company before randomly returning any products.
responsible for defects and will not pay for setup problems. This insures a more orderly resolution of the problem.
The new clock owner, having paid a bundle for a new clock, Even though you will probably be very upset, be
will not want to pay you for what he sees as a responsiblility calm and friendly when contacting the clock manufacturer.
of the store. Store owners are usually pretty tightfisted so they They are trying to provide good service and will correct any
will try to pass it off to the customer or the factory. So, problems for you. If they give you special instructions, follow
understand your payment procedures and be sure the people them!
that you ar e working with are also aware of their respon- I do not think that it is good policy to keep damaged
sibilities. I am assuming that you already have the general goods and try to fire sale them out of the store. There is an
clock repair skills, so you really only have to be sure that old adage that "the sweet taste of a bargain is soon soured
the store people understand what is explained in the rest of by poor performance." You should always be interested
the article. in top quality in all aspects of business.
The operation of a clock sales department depends Check the rest of the clock components to make sure
on a few simple, easily learned techniques. The first is to fully that they are all there and are in good condition. Clock move-
understand what your clock is designed to do and know how ments will have various types of packing to protect the chime
to make the clock perform its functions . The second is to rods from breakage, to keep chains and cables in place, etc.
check your clock to insure that it is in proper working order. Follow the enclosed instructions to insure that you have
The check at the factory is superficial at best. They are con· removed everything. This is important. Things left behind can
cerned with production and the sale of a product. They do foul up the movement and the clock will stop. It does not
not have the time nor do they seem too concerned about set well in the customer's mind that his clock stopped because
conducting true quality control. What does this mean to you didn't know enough to remove packing materials. Many
you? Go back to step one, you must fully understand your companies used the soft blocks to hold pulleys in place.
clock. Finally, you must know how to set up the clock in the Always remove them; do not expect the clock to run and then
customer's home and do it in a professional and confident have the customer remove them. I have seen this done and the
manner. block material gets sucked in between the cable and pulley

20 Horological Times/January 1989

and binds, stopping the clock. There is always a film on your hands-perspiration, skin oils,
Now is a good time to read the rest of your instruc- etc. When these come in contact with the polished surface
tion manual so that you will know what functions your clock they begin reacting with the finish. These will appear as
will perform. Take your time so that you really understand brown fingerprints or as brownish smears or blotches on the
your clock. When it comes time for a sales pitch, you will surface. These marks are underneath the lacquer, so you will
confidently answer customer questions. have to strip and refinish the surface to correct this situation .
I am a strong proponent of checking a clock in the Check your instructions to see how weights are to be hung.
store to be sure that everything is in working order and that it Usually the heaviest weight will supply the energy to run the
keeps time. It is not a rarity to have a clock arrive w ith the quarterly chimes and is hung on the right side, but not always.
wrong pendulum. The timekeeping is probably the most If weights are not properly hung , there is a good chance that
important thing to check because most people really have the clock will not be work ing properly.
problems regulating a clock. If you can adjust it in your store Give your pendulum a gentle push to start it ticking.
so that it is keeping good time you will have a good chance It should have an even sounding tick. If not, check your
of eliminating this problem. Remember, regulation of the instructions to see how you should make the adjustments to
clock is usually considered an owner's responsibility. Th 0 get it in beat (get the even ticking sound).
clock manufacturer wil I not reimburse you for expenses in- Now that the clock is runn ing, move the minute hand
curred in travels to the customer's home to adjust his clock. forward to start the chim ing. The hammer heads will usually
Back to our store setup. Set the clock in the desired have to be bent to or away from the chime rods to get a good
location and check the case position. It should be level, side- tone. Continue advancing the min11te hand to check chiming
to-side and front-to-back. Check this with a level, do not until you are satisfied that it is working correctly. Listen to
rely on visual positioning. Carefully attach the pendulum. the hour strike to insure that the hands have been properly
This is sometimes a problem as the suspension spring is fragile, placed . If your clock has multiple chimes, shift to the various
and a heavy hand when hanging the pendulum will break this chimes to check its operation . It should have a smooth action .
spring. Now that your pendulum is hanging properly, attach Again check your handbook concerning changing of the
the weights. I recommend that you wear a pair of soft gloves chimes. There is a procedure that must be followed to protect
or hold the weights with a soft cloth or paper towel. The the movement from damage. Usually you never change tunes
polished surfaces on the clock are lacquered and , if you handle while the clock is chiming or when it is within a minute or
them with bare hands, you have the potential for problems. two of the quarter.
(Please turn to next page)

1Omm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, 18mm

...-

1.~ .
- - 9 .-- .....

.. .,
,.,,9•-·
........

• •
-
ALL STRAPS STITCHED
.. --· .... ·--- --- -- - ..
. -
$2. 50 each . POST PAID or 50 for 85.oo PPD
Send Check to: Mr. J. Butler
GENUINE PIGSKIN STRAPS 6830 Casitas Pass Road, Carpinteria, CA 93013

14mm, 16mm. 18mm BLACK

;; .... _. . . -~· ~~~~ . . .. 14mm, 16mm, 18mm 19mm BROWN
~ . ._ ".) ..
$1.50 each . POST PAID or 50 for 40.00 PPD
Send Check to: Mr. J. Butler
GENUINE LIZARD GRAIN LEATHER 6830 Casitas Pass Road, Carpinteria, CA 93013

14mm, (Ladies), 18mm BROWN

18mm BLACK

$14. 00 each. POST PAID or 1O,for100 .00 PPD

Send Check to: Mr. J. Butler
GENUINE CROCODILE 6830 Casitas Pass Road, Carpinteria, CA 93013

12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 20mm BLACK

10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 20mm BROWN
14mm, 16mm, 18mm BURGANDY

$1. 50 each. POST PAID or 50 fo r 4o.oo PPD

GENUINE CROCODILE GRAIN LEATHER Send Check to: Mr. J. Butler
6830 Casit~s Pass Road, Carpinteria, CA 93013

You'll like th ese! Long wearing

Great looking. Good feeling . 16mm, 18mm BLACK

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Send Check to: Mr. J. Butler
LIZARD GRAIN PVC 6830 Casitas Pass Road, Carpinteria, CA 93013
SPECIAL PRICE. GOOD THRU MAR 89 ONLY

January 1989/Horological Times 21

 If your clock has a moon dial, be sure that it is gravity will take over and the clock will stop. How do you
working properly. This is often the culprit when a seemingly correct this? You can reposition the case so that the pendulum
good clock refuses to run. The moon dial normally is indexed isn't interfered with. Sometimes the beat is fussy and must
in a clockwise direction. To set it, lightly press on the dial be adjusted. Sometimes the movement of the pendulum is
and push in a clockwise direction until you have set it at its rocking the case and this instability is your problem.
proper position. The dia·I is usually indexed at a consistent For proper performance, clocks must always be set
rate, once or twice a day. So, if you have a clock that stops on a firm surface. Some people will put a slab of slate or a
at the same time, there is a good chance that the moon dial heavy board down and set the clock on it. I think this takes
is the problem. Often the tension spring working against the away from the general appearance of the clock. I replace
moon disc is set too hard and this friction is too much for the rounded leveling feet that come installed in the clock with
the movement to drive. pointed leveling feet. These are easy to make. Just match a
If you don't have the mechanical ability to deal with screw to the thread of the factory leveling feet, chuck it up
these various problems you will definitely not want to attempt in the lathe, and turn a point on it. These pointed feet will
to repair them yourself! Check with the clock company and sink through the carpeting into the base floor and provide
find out if there is a local repair rep who can help you. If they a solid surface. Should the clock have to be moved sometime
do not have someone in the area who will work with them, in the future, the marks from these points are barely notice-
try going to your local clock shop to see if they will help you. able.
If you are going to successfully market clocks, you are going Also check to be sure that the pendulum has been
to need a service technician. Clocks are machines and all properly attached and is hanging correctly. If it is a lyre
machines require proper servicing. pendulum and is twisted, correct it. Grasp the pendulum at the
Now that your clock is working properly, you make top of the gridiron and also at the base of the grid. Twist to
some adjustments to the timekeeping and it adds some life return the pendulum to a level plane. The swing or arc of the
to your store. The sound of the chimes can often create an pendulum should be in a consistent, level motion. If the
impulse purchase, so there is a benefit to running the clock pendulum wobbles, check your suspension spring. It might
in your store. It will probably go unnoticed by you, but by be broken or distorted. In either case, you should replace it.
running the clock in your store and making these adjustments, Now that you have the clock running, carefully
you will gradually sharpen your skills and get a better under- explain everything to the new owners. Go through the instruc-
standing of the clock. This will be a real bonus when it comes tion booklet, step by step, and be sure that they understand
time to make that all important sales pitch. what you are saying. This is probably the most important
You've made your pitch and it was successful. The thing of all. Circle key paragraphs in the booklet, especially
clock is sold. All you have to do is take it to the customer's the section dealing with regulation. Make sure that they fully
home and set it up for them, explain again how it works, understand your guarantees, what they do and do not cover.
and you are in fat city. This will help to protect you in the future should a problem
Before taking the clock to the new owner's home, occur. A written guarantee is the best way to go. Always
make sure that it is spotless. The glass should sparkle and there remember to be courteous and act professionally when you
should be no dust on the wood. Carefully pack the clock just are in the home. Thank them again before you leave.
as you received it. When you set it up in the new home, That's about all there is to it. Like anything else,
explain what you are doing as you unpack the clock. They are you just have to work at it and it will become second nature
interested and it helps create a relaxing situation in the home to you.
as you are in the process of getting their prized possession back A final tip. I keep a card file on all clocks sold.
in running order. Follow the same procedures that you used I include the customer's name, address, phone number, type
when first setting the clock up in your store. of clock, any points of interest, date purchased, setup costs
A new situation will present itself if you are faced charged, and any complaints and service calls. This has been
with setting the clock on carpet .. This can pose some unique helpful to me because, at a quick glance, I can tell what
problems that are a real headache and also a mystery if you I might expect to find when I get there and if the clock might
do not understand what is going on. If the clock is to be set be a lemon.
on carpet, you will still want the case to be level side-to-side. On a personal note, the toughest job that I ever had
The difference between setting up clocks on hard surfaces involving a clock setup occurred at a customer's home in the
and carpet is that when setting on carpet you will want to next town. This individual raised champion fish and actually
have the clock case lean ever so slightly to the rear. As the had one room in his house that was one huge fish tank filled
weights descend, they have a tendency to pull the case for- with carp. He calmly pointed to that room and said to set
ward. If your clock is set up level front-to-back, this will now up the clock there. I thought that he must be crazy and asked
have your case leaning forward. This could cause the pen- him how I could possibly do that. He grabbed his wallet and
dulum to hit the weights, or worse, coupled oscillation will threw it into the water. Immediately the carp began tossing
come into play. this wallet to and fro bet,\llfeen them. He turned to me and said,
Simply put, a moving body such as a pendulum gives "There's your surface! Didn't you ever hear of carp-to-carp
off a certain amount of energy. If the weights are close to the walleting?"
pendulum, this energy will be transferred to the weights and Catch you next time.
will cause them to start swinging. As the weights swing, they
start returning this energy back to the pendulum. Eventually

22 Horological Times/January 1989

 We Salute These New •en1bersl

ANACAN, Ronaldo-Ouezon City, Philippines GLESSNER, Rodger D.-York, PA POLACHEK, Ralph B.-Oak Forest, IL
AWBREY, James G.-lndianapolis, IN GOONAN, James L .-Scranton, PA PR ESCOTT, Arthur E.-Fern Park, FL
AZARRAGA, Ramon M.-New York, NY HAHN, Allan-Great Falls, MT RAMIREZ, Victor-Glendale, AZ
_BALDWIN, Charles E.-Colorado Springs, CO HENRY, T.H.-Jonesboro, AR SAFF, Donald J.-Tampa, FL
BJORNESTAD, Art-Westlake, CA JONES, Jennia Spainhour-Burlington, NC SALGADO, Jose A.-Brooklyn, NY
BLUM, Ronald-Phillipsburg, NJ KAMM, Quinton-Honolulu, HI SCHOTT, James-St. Louis, MO
BORKOWSKI, Thomas-Wickliffe, OH KENTOFFIO, Peter-Patchogue, NY SCHUETTE, Rick-Bedford, MA
BROOME, M.-Red Bank, NJ KWAK, Shang-Hoon Seoul, Korea Sponsor: Robert Britt-Tenants Harbor, ME
Sponsor: Henry Frystak-Linden, NJ LAKE, Myron J.-Harrison, OH SCHWARZ, Julie Ann-Raytown, MO
CAREY, Richard L.-Houston, TX LUCAS, Jiunn-Shing Low-Oakland, CA SIMONE, Vincent J.-Edgewood, MD
CAST AN IAS, John-Toronto, Canada MAGDZAS, Daniel-Superior, WI STINER, Roy L.-Cour D'Alene, ID
CHOP, John-Fairfield, CT MEDLIN, Purdis-Lorena, TX STRICKLAND, Bobby G.-Tyler, TX
COOKE, Allen B.-Hughsonville, NY MEUNIER, Robert N.-Waltham, MA SULLIVAN, Michael E.-Seville, OH
CORN, Paul H.-Waldorf, MD MOBERG, Robbin-Webster, NY TEMES, Irving-Baltimore, MD
Sponsor: Marvin Whitney-Alexandria, VA MONTES, Juan A.-Orlando, FL THOMPSON, Amy-Great Falls, MT
COSNER, Mr. Patsy-Scranton, PA NAWAZ, Mohd-Sharjah, Pakistan VERDERBER, Carl J.-Rhinebeck, NY
Sponsor: D.L. Hulse-Scranton, PA Sponsor: Amjad Ali-Dubai, Pakistan Sponsor: Russell Martinson-Rhinebeck, NY
COX, Ray F.-Tipton, IN OSBORN, Jim-Niland , CA WARR EN, Steven-Quincy, IL
DAVIS, James G.-Louisville, KY PARKHILL, H.D.-Durango, CO WEHRING, Weldon L.-Bacliff, TX
DEMEERLEER, Eugene-Royal Oak, Ml PARSONS, John L.-Venice, CA WEISS, Richard A.-Waterford, NY
DE ROSIER, James-St. Paul, MN PERKINS, George F.-Morrill, ME WENDEL, Vickie-Opelika, AL
DIVA, Daniel G.-Lewisville, OH PETERSON, Jerry 0.-Center Point, AL WILKINS, W.C.-Marshall, NC
FRAWLEY, Edward A.-Cayucos, CA PEZZUTI, Ronald L.-Yonkers, NY WOLFE, John C., Jr.-Columbus, OH
GIBSON, Samuel B.-St. Petersburg, FL PFEIFFER, Al-Peekskill, NY YACKEL, Steven W.-Tracy, CA
Sponsor: Robert Gibson-Hammonton, NJ PICKARD, James F .-Glendale, AZ

MEN'S
WRISTWATCHES
Illinois Picadilly
G.F. $200.00 I NEED THESE 3 WATCHES TO FILL ORDERS. World Time
Patek-Vacheron
Agassiz etc.
urgently needed.
Rolex Stainless 1950 Chronograph . . .. ... .1500.00 up Rolex Bubblebacks, SS .. . . .. .... ... .. 400.00 up
Any Split Second Chronograph SS .... ... . 400.00 up 14K or 18K CALL
14K .. .1000.00 up Gruen Chronograph, G.F. or SS . ..... . ... 200.00
Chronograph With Day-Date Windows, SS ... . 200.00 up Patek Ph ilippe 18K Hour Glass Shaped ... . . 5000.00 up
14K ... 600.00 up Rolex Oyster Perpetual Moonphase 18K .. . .10.()00.00
Chronograph With Moonphase, SS .... ... . 300.00 up Stainless .......3000.00
14K .. . 800.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Moonphase .........12,000.00 up
Rolex 18K 1950 Chronograph . ..... ... .5000.00 up Lecoultre Moonphase Dav Date G.F . . . .... 400.00
Patek Philippe 18K Chronograph ..... ... .9000.00 up 14K .... . .. 1000.00
Patek Philippe SS Chronograph ...... ... .3000.00 up Rectangular G. F ....... 1000.00
Vacheron & Con~antin & Lecoultre Diamond
Early 1 Button Chronograph Porcelain Dial Mystery Dial Watch .. . . . ......... 800.00
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Any Old Diamond Dial Watches Moonphase . . ...... . ......... 400.00 up

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Member: AWi, NAWCC

January 1989/Horological Times 23

 By Riley Tharp

EDITOR'S NOTE: The Publicity & Public Relations Com-

mittee challenges you to put this article to work for you. See
details at the end of the article.

ll[:t_ efore internal combustion or steam power, before What will you be wearing on your wrist in the twenty-
JILc) Mozart or da Vinci, before the discovery of America first century? Major breakthroughs are likely to come from
or the printing of Gutenberg's Bibles--there were increasingly sophisticated micro-electronics, and these in turn
clocks. will rely on improvements in energy storage technology.
Incredible ingenuity and industry have been directed As a prelude, pagers will soon move from pocket or
to the task of measuring and marking time, and this fascina- belt to wristwatch, perhaps within a few years. Can wristwatch
tion seems likely to endure. To better imagine what personal cellular phones be far behind?
timekeepers might be like in the future, it helps to understand Tomorrow you might have a specialty watch for
the powerful effects of clocks and watches through the ages. almost every activity. Joggers already benefit from pulse and
It is difficult to imagine a time before clocks. Today pacer watches, but in the future watches could monitor heart
we operate our lives to a tolerance of a few minutes or even disease, high blood pressure, diabetes and more. Perhaps a
less, but time was once expressed by the cycles of nature. breathalizer watch will tell you when it's safe to drive, and a
By the early fourteenth century, the first monastery camping watch could have a locating radio beacon in case of
and village tower clocks were changing the rhythm of life from emergency.
agrarian to urban. Production and commerce could synchro- Watches of the future are sure to blur our definition
nize to the clock, and efficiency and prosperity grew. of timekeepers. When is a watch no longer a watch? What
Aristocrats were carrying decorative but inaccurate should it look like? How much will you spend? Watches may
pocket watches by the late 1500s. Just two centuries later, shed all extra functions in the name of style and tradition, or
precise watches were widely available. Why? Maritime nations they may become personal electronic marvels.
needed portable timekeepers for navigation , and the flurry of Successful adaptations will require few buttons since
inventions and improvements in marine chronometers soon the limit to wrist electronics may well be the dexterity of the
had a beneficial effect on everyday pocket watches. human hand, not the inventiveness of the human mind.
The coming of railroads in the early nineteenth Regardless of the appearance and features of future
century helped to develop a new and widespread sense of time timepieces, one thing is certain, craftsmen members of the
and punctuality. Soon everyone carried a pocket watch, and American Watchmakers Institute will possess the skills re-
after WWII, the popular new wristwatch took over. quired to keep them functioning reliably. (Your name) who
Modern wristwatches are truly miniature marvels. A services timepieces at (shop's name) keeps up with the latest
mechanical watch can have several hundred pieces, and its timepiece technology through membership in the AWi.
power requirements are so small that the energy in one cubic
centimeter of gasoline (about 1/30 of an ounce) could keep it DETAILS-
ticking for more than 500 years! The Publicity & Public Relations Committee has
Quartz watches are equally remarkable with accuracy prepared this article and two shortened versions to help you
undreamed of by scientists, astronomers, and navigators of just gain posrtive publicity in your local paper. This is the 90-line
a century ago. Even inexpensive examples can maintain error version. We also have a 60- and 30-line version for those who
rates of less than one part in two million. prefer to submit a shorter article to their local paper.
Now that everyday timekeepers are so precise, it This article, written by freelance writer Riley Tharp,
seems likely that the longstanding quest in watchmaking-the and the two shorter versions are copyrighted and can be yours
quest for greater accuracy-will finally give way to new pur- for use in your local paper. The articles will be mailed to local
suits. papers on a first-come basis. That is, if two requests are

24 Horological Times/January 1989

 VIBROGRAF FEATURED
received naming the same paper, the one with the earliest PRODUCT OF THE MONTH...
postmark will prevail.
A WI will send a typeset version of the article to the
editor of your local paper. We will rewrite the final paragraph The Automatic
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be used in the event we receive more than one request for the Watchmaker.
same paper. You must furnish the following information with
your request: Efficiently
a) Your name and shop affiliation. cleans 15
b) The name and address of your local watches at
paper. If you can supply the editor's a time.
name, it will enhance the chances of
the article being published. Two Year
c) Frequency of publication, i.e.: daily,
weekly, monthly, etc.
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d) Do you want the 30-, 60- or 90-line to clean ...
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January 1989/Horological Times 25

Old ffTatches
Charles Cleves

Rolex Watches

n the field of watch collecting, much of the suc- was to make the watch automatic. Up to this time the auto-

I cess in the collectors' market parallels the company's

achievements and successes. In the case of the Ro lex
Watch Company, a look back at the early development of the
matic movements had limited action rotors between two bump-
er springs. This way was very noisy and a lot of people resent-
ed hearing the weight banging from side to side. Hans Wilsdorf
company leaves no doubt as to why the watches are so desir- decided there had to be a better, more efficient way. In 1931,
able to collectors. Most of the success of the company is owed Hans himself invented the perpetual rotor on the Rolex 620
to the founder Hans Wilsdorf. He realized from the beginning, movement. This new model had the first rotor that travelled
in 1905, that quality and accuracy would be needed to sell a full 360 degrees.
wristwatches amidst the negative publicity they were receiving. Along with these developments was an equally suc-
The watchmakers and jewelers of this period believed the cessful advertising campaign. Many ingenious discoveries and
smaller movements to be less durable and more susceptible to inventions of this time period took years to hit the market
damage than the larger pocket watch movements. because the companies did not advertise. With every new ad-
Hans realized that wristwatches were the way of the vance the Role~ company made, there was ample advertising
future. He was one of the few people pushing wristwatches at to let the public know· that Rolex was ahead of the compe-
this time. At first his main concern was accuracy. Through his tition.
strict quality control and by buying the highest quality raw There four basic ideas attributed to Hans Wilsdorf are
movements to start with, he attained a reputation for fine the foundation on which the company stands today. They are:
quality watches. In 1914, he was recognized for this by the 1. Chronometer quality movements.
Kew Observatory in London. He was awarded a class A Kew 2. Oyster cases.
chronometer certificate for a 25 mm movement. This meant 3. Perpetual movements.
that the small movement tested as accurately as the finest 4. Extensive advertising.
marine chronometers of that time. Hans kept improving the On this solid foundation, Rolex has built an empire
quality and accuracy of all his movements. By 1927 all of the that dominates the high end of the wristwatch market. The
movements made for Rolex had to be of chronometer quality. "President" model has become a status symbol for the success-
Another area which was of concern to Hans was the ful. This was achieved by a very well-planned advertising
case. He had realized from the beginning that the case=was just campaign along a very protected pricing structure. Rolex
as important as the movement. Finally in 1926, he developed keeps a close watch on the retail outlets. Anyone giving deep
a case that would keep out all moisture and dust. This was the discounts or wholesaling watches to non-Rolex dealers is cut
year the oyster case was invented and patented. Problems off from buying any more watches. This type of strict control
arose, however, from unscrewing the crown everyday to wind leads to the rise of a secondary market. There are many doc-
the watch. There was only one solution to be found, and that tors, lawyers, and other professionals· desiring to own a Rolex

26 Horologi.cal Times/January 1989

"President" but not willing to pay the price for a new one.
This is the main reason the used Rolex watch market is flour-
ishing today.
One of the problems you can encounter in this sec-
ondary market is reconditioned watches being sold as new
ones. Less scrupulous dealers are refinishing the cases to look
like new and selling them as new watches. Some of the watch-
es I see have 18K fake bands. These bands are high quality
18K gold and fully marked. The ones that were shown to me
were made in Hong Kong. There are usually a few minor
blemishes on the catch. When these bands are installed on a
well-restored head, the whole watch looks brand new.
The "Jubilee" style stainless steel and gold bands
are a lot more obvious. They pull apart a genuine Rolex
steel band and insert gold center links to make it two-tone.
Thus the catch is not marked right and the links have stiff
and uneven spots in them. If someone offers you a new
Rolex at a bargain price you had better take a good, long look
at it before you buy it. However, there are many legitimate
companies that properly restore Rolex watches and tell you
exactly what you are buying.
Figure 1
There is one area in which many collectors feel the
company is negligent. If you send a Rolex watch to the fac-
tory for a crown and case tube that is 25 years or older, they
will send it right back to you. You get a letter telling you that
parts are obsolete. Because the crown in so unique on the
bubbleback and patented, no one else may reproduce it. The
case tubes are being reproduced by a couple of different peo-
ple. Several of the other hi-grade watch companies will repair
any of their vintage watches. It would be a service to collec-
tors and original owners if Rolex would make another run
of these crowns. One of the reasons that people are willing to
spend so much money on these watches is that they hold their
value so well. Not being able to attain these crowns and re-
store these watches properly does not perpetuate this idea.
This one dull spot hasn't hurt the prices on the col-
lectors' market. The bubblebacks, chronographs, and moon-
phase watches have at least doubled over the last two years.
The early models are gaining momentum and the doctors
watches have always been strong . Double split second chro-
nographs are leading the rest lately (see Figures 1 and 2). Re-
cently I have seen many of the high end watches coming into
the collectors' market from private individuals. If you have
Figure 2
some of these watches, don't wait too long before you de-
cide to sell.

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January 1989/Horological Times 27
ROCK QUARRY
Fred S. Burckhardt

A CLOCK THAT JUST NEVER COT FIXED

n case you've been wondering why I haven't written ing to get the price down some as he doesn't feel he can sell

I any articles lately, it's because I've been working on

my new book. I just finished it the other day. It
should be on the market soon, so be sure to look for it. The
too many if they are over $300,000.00.
When the call was over, I returned to the job I was
working on. I promised myself I wouldn't fool around with
title is Small Fry. It's the story about a midget watchmaker any more clocks because I've had some bad experiences with
whose business is going down the tubes. Rather than face re- them. But this customer insisted I repair one for her. It was
ality, the watchmaker decides to end it all by swallowing one of those Westminster chime jobs that had a floating
four hundred 364 batteries and electrocuting himself. It's balance. I told her I would look it over and see if there was a
just a short story. minor adjustment I could make. As soon as I took it out of the
Speaking of watchmakers, a good friend called the case, I could see what the trouble was. Part of the helical
week before last. He was all excited about the new method of spring on the balance was spiraling the wrong way. I figured
cleaning watches by blowing them out. He said it wasn't somebody who didn't know what they were doing messed it
anything new to him because he's been using a tire pump for up. After carefully removing it, I fixed it so the coils were all
years. He started using this method after a hurricane blew spiraling to the right. It wasn't an easy thing to do. Having
away his shop on the coast. Fortunately, he found all his trouble reshaping the center coil, I decided to cut it and ce-
watches, and to his amazement they were all as clean as a mented the ends with super glue. It saved a lot of time, and I
whistle. After giving it a great deal of thought, he bought him- must admit, it turned out to be a rather neat job.
self a large compressor so he could get as much pressure as After replacing the balance, the clock still wouldn't
what he thought was equal to the hurricane winds. He tried run. I noticed there was an excessive amount of end shake in
it first on an alarm clock. The pressure was so strong it blew the balance so I bent the support bracket to remove some of
the clock out of his hand and imbedded itself on the back of the play. This didn't do any good. Then I saw what the trouble
the head of a customer who was standing across the shop. was. One of the fork horns was bent almost 90 degrees. I
Now when the alarm goes off the customer's eyes blink the figured somebody probably slipped and bent the thing. When
hour. The customer really wasn't too upset, as my friend I went to straighten it, it broke off. I couldn't see where it
promised him a free cleaning job whenever needed (void, of was of any use anyway, so I tossed it aside.
course, if he gets any hair oil or spray on it between cleanings). Still not being able to get it to run, I decided it need-
After relating the story, he continued to tell me ed cleaning. I took the thing all apart, not realizing there were
about another cleaning method he's been working on. It's so many wheels and levers involved. Getting the mainsprings
cleaning by laser beam. He said the customer doesn't even have out and back into the barrels was a real challenge. I used up
to take off the watch as it needs no disassembly at all. The two boxes of band-aids. By the time I was finished it looked
only hitch is the machine costs $325,000.00. He's been try- like I was wearing a pair of tight tan gloves.

28 Horological Times/January 1989

 It took several weeks to get it back together. I had to
bend some of the wheels and levers to get them to work prop- SERVICING THE ETA 555 SERIES
erly. The worst trouble is with the chimes. On the quarter ANALOG WATCH
hour it sounds twelve notes ; the half hour three notes; three NOW ON VIDEO TAPE
quarter hour seventeen notes, and the hour has one note. A new video tape on servicing the ETA 555 calibre series of
Every third day it strikes the hours at twenty after. Not brag- quartz analog watches is now available on loan from the AWi
ging, they do have a terrific tone. If you would turn the hands Audio Visual Library. Filmed in the shop of AWi instructor
real fast it sounded like an aria from El Troopadoor or one of James Adams, the tape presents a watchmaker's concept of
those opera things. how these watches function and should be serviced. It is pre-
The customer called about the clock yesterday. I sented so that a person with little quartz watch experience will
told her when she left it not to be in a rush. After all, it's benefit from it the most. The tape devotes considerable time
only been two years. When she came in to pick it up I told to the function and testing of the watch's various component
parts in plain watchmaker language; it is not meant to be the
her it just wasn't made to be repaired . She started to cry and
type of discourse an electronics engineer would present.
said she loved the clock because it belonged to her parents
Approximately 2 hours in length, the tape is designed
and they told her it was working okay. I told her the old fools for individual home study. It is not presented in a manner that
probably unloaded it on her so she would have to pay to get would be suitable for large group viewing such as a guild meet-
it repaired. ing program. Available in VHS form at o nly, the tape can be
She was a little reluctant to pay me for the time I borrowed for 2 weeks f rom the AWi Audio Visual Library. A
spent working on the darn thing. I explained to her that $450 $5 service charge should accompany request$ for the loan of
wasn't very much. If it would have worked the charges would the tape.
be much more. She said she could have bought a new one for The option of a mini-co urse using th is tape and the
less than that but I told her that charges for skilled craftsman- loan of an ETA 555 calibre watch is ava ilable for a fee of $25.
ship come high and that's what she's paying for. I said if she The tape, watch, service bulletin, wo rksheet, and an assigned
had brought it to me before somebody who didn't know what instructor to answer your questions and assist you wi ll be
provided to those who select this option. If you choose the
they were doing messed it up , the charges would have been
mini-course, you should have knowledge of how to read a
less. I settled for the cost of the band-aids.
meter, and have a meter at your disposal. If you do not know
Before she left, I told her she might try sending it to how to read a meter and want to take advantage of this mini-
a fellow in North Carolina who writes a column called "Jungle course, contact AWi Central for details on how this can be
Jim" or "Jangle Jingle"-something like that. I heard he wasn't accomplished.
very good, but that he was cheap! \lCill

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January 1989/Horological Times 29

 James Adams, CMW, CMBHI

OIL and LUBRICATION

ii]f ools go where angels fear to tread." That's me
for writing on this subject. If I had 42 watch-
stamped from brass sheet, again, are subject to cost effective
production runs. The use of plastics in movements is for cost
makers in a room, I'd get 42 different opinions effective considerations. Make it cheaper, make it faster, sell
about lubricating watch movements, and some would be quite more of them. That's the motto of all manufacturing concerns
vocal about it. We would have each saying "I am correct, you irregardless of what is being produced.
are wrong." So now, it's my turn. "I'm correct, you are Even when extreme care is used in polishing bearing
wrong." Listen up, stout hearts. surfaces, there will be a microscopically rough surface. The
The nemesis of the watch movement, except in graininess of metals is such as to always leave, after polishing,
certain areas, is friction. Friction slows and eventually binds a pitted surface and a surface that has been stressed. As these
up train wheels. Friction does its work against mechanical surfaces rub each other (see Figures 1 and 2), the pits will
escapements. It adversely affects a movement's oscillator grind away at each other and bits of stressed metal surface
with undue stress. In well designed automatic winding units, will flake off and add to parts' wear. Along with the built-in
friction can literally grind up gears and pivots. Balance staff wear factor, add external moisture, corrosive atmosphere,
pivots and train wheel pivots are being worn away through and an always hostile environment.
contaminated oil residues. We all have seen this, it's nothing Early in the distribution of the stepping motor quartz
new. movement, we were told (out here in the real world) it was
The usefulness and accuracy of the watch movement unnecessary and not desirable to oil the quartz movement.
depends on the amount of built-in friction that movement has The torque was of such low magnitude as not to create a
and how it can be eliminated. A movement comprises rota- problem. So little power was running through the train that
tional motion, sliding motion, and oscillating motion. Each of oil would be a hindrance. O.K., if that was what was pontifi-
the motions induces a frictional drag. cated, but I really didn't believe it myself.
As two objects touch and slide against each other, We had a brand of SMOs we sold and, because of the
three things happen: ( 1) the forward motion of the object is above logic, they came in unoiled. We sold them. Then after
slowed, compared to free no contact motion, (2) frictional a few weeks in some cases, and a few months in other cases,
heat is generated, and (3) the stress of contact creates wear. these watches started to come back! The patrons' comments
The medium used to reduce the negative conditions of friction were always the same, "It's losing time." After we touted up
is a lubricant of some nature. An aid to lubricants is parts the superiority of this brand X, we had to eat our words.
design; for instance, olive hole jewels, cone pivots, cap jewels, The first three or four we dismantled and cleaned. Although
carefully shaped and polished pivots, the use of hard stone they looked good, we oiled them to see what would happen.
bearing holes, diamond, ruby, synthetic stone materials, They ran and timed out beautifully. The next movements
and sapphire. The finer the polish on bearing surfaces, the that came in, we just oiled the train if the looked nice and
less friction encountered. clean. Again, they ran and timed out beautifully. After about
In the course of fabricating watch movements, the a year or so, I attended a bench course and we were told to
tools used to shape pillar plates and bridges (either in metal oil these SMOs sparingly to keep the pivots from rusting.
or plastic) are operating at such a speed as to make each That really corked me off. Here I and other bench
finished part as economical as deemed necessary. The same can watchmakers had to ( 1) disregard a factory directive, (2)
be said for the turning lathes used in fabricating pinions, experiment at our expense to discover the SMQ needed oil
balance staffs, and so on. Again it's a trade-off between cost as other timepieces, and (3) correct at our benches what
effective production and parts tolerance and polish. Wheels "factory engineers" messed up. I have often wondered just

30 Horologi,cal Times/January 1989

 springs which, by their extreme pushing and sliding pressures,
do create a "stick and slip" condition. This also occurs in
Figure 1. Two bearing surfaces as might be seen through a watchmaker train wheel pivot motion to bearing hole. So you see, the
loupe. watch movement has two forms of friction to overcome.
Let us return to Figures 1 and 2 for a moment.
There are at least two interesting theories on metal friction,
and it may be that both are correct depending on the fine-
ness of the finish polish of the bearing surfaces. Under ex-
treme magnification the two bearing surfaces might appear as
Figure 2. This is the same bearing surface as Figure 1, only viewed Figure 2 in the cross section, with high places and low places.
with an electron microscope. The bearing surface is quite rough at this In some places these are jagged, sharp projections. In a bound-
viewing advantage .
ary lubrication mode, the high places and jagged, sharp pro-'
jections may be separated only by the thickness measured in
how these people arrive at such goofy logic. Maybe they cut
a handful of molecules. Now we are in a "wear" sit.uation or,
class the day the instructor covered the effects of friction on
at best, a "stick and slip" situation. The second theory has it
touching bodies. Who can say!
that if two bodies are really brought to a high polish, then
there may be an actual molecular attraction between the two
FRICTION
bearing surfaces. This would create a molecular bond, so to
The friction that develops between two metals is
speak, that wou Id cause a tremendous frictional situation to
directly proportional to the load pressure and independence
exist.
of the bearing area. Also, static friction is much greater than
Next month we will discuss lubrication used in watch
kinetic friction, all things being equal. That is, it takes much
movements.
more energy or force to start a body moving than to keep it
sliding once it has started.
Now this "stick and slip" effect runs rampant in friction: the resistance of motion of surfaces or bodies
the watch movement and is of vital interest to both the move- in contact.
ment designers and chemist trying to perfect movement grease: a thick lubricant.
lubricants. In mechanical movements this "stick and slip" kinetic: (theory of heat) the temperature of a sub-
occurs several times a second, from mainspring through stance increases with an increase in either the
kinetic energy of the particles or the average
balance complete. The mainspring, along with overcoming
potential energy of separation of the particles
its own static friction, supplies the extra power necessary
or in both when heat is added.
to allow the train and pallet fork to overcome their static lubricant: to make slippery or smooth; to apply an oily
friction. The rate of power flow from the mainspring on or greasy substance in order to diminish friction.
through its final consumption by the balance complete is oil: any of a large class of substances typically unctuous,
constantly changing. The lubricant used in the movement viscous liquid at ordinary temperature, used for
has a tremendous bearing on the ultimate accuracy of the lubrications.
timekeeping rate of that movement. This factor and, of static: relating to bodies at rest or forces of equilibrium.
course, movement design enters the picture. viscosity: stickiness, property in viscous fluids whereby
resistance is offered to rearrangement of the
There is yet another form ~f friction that exerts its
molecules.
own type of drag, and that is liquid friction or lubrication
friction. This occurs when a film of lubrication is introduced
REFERENCES:
between two moving, touching bodies. Liquid friction depends
Modern Horological Lubrication, Zeol Products
entirely on the viscosity of the lubricant and is independent Chemist Role in Watch Oil, Hamilton Watch Co.
of surface finishes as long as the lubricant covers 100% of the Webster's Seventh New Collegiate Dictionary
contacting surfaces. Viscosity will vary with changes in tem-
perature and also with the absorption into the lubricant of
perfume vapors and essential oils in soaps and cosmetics.
To understand liquid friction, we must understand
viscous lubrication and boundary lubrication. If the moving
and stationary surfaces of a bearing, at their closest contact,
are separated by a distance at least equal to several thousand ... We Offer
times greater than the lubricant molecular dimensions and the
bearing speed is high and the pressures are low, we have
Success
viscous lubrication. This is because the passage or slippage of By Degrees!
lubricant molecules over each other is relatively easy. In the
case of boundary lubrication, we have a situation where the
moving bearing is at slow speeds with its stationary counter-
part and a condition where there is only a few molecule
thicknesses of lubrication. The slow rotational speed and high
pressures squeeze out all but a very, very thin layer of lubri-
r cant. This occurs in the extreme pressures of coiled main-

January 1989/Horological Times 31

Technically © 1989

WATCHES
Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI
(All rights reserved by the author)

Antique Watch Restoration ~ 1989

Part XXXVll
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF DRIVEN PINIONS FROM 6 LEAVES THROUGH 14 LEAVES
& ny pinion which is d riven by a wheel will have certain 6-LEAF PINION
~characteristics depending on how many leaves the Figure 1 shows a 6-leaf pinion being driven by a
pinion has, the shape of the leaves, the number wheel with 60 teeth which gives a 10:1 ratio between the two
of teeth in the driving wheel, the shape of the teeth in the gears; that is, the pinion makes 10 revolutions to one of the
driving wheel, and the accuracy of the pitching of the wheel wheel. The circular pitch of the pinion is equal to 360 degrees
with the pinion. divided by 6, which would equal 60 degrees. The pitch is

Figure 1

.
I

I
I
I
I
'--*
I
11 - ,
J3
n
I

I
-

I
,,._ __
I
- _ _J _ _ _
I
WHEEL: 60 TEETH I
PINION: 6 LEAVES I
I
RATIO: 10: I
I
I
I I

32 Horological Times/January 1989

divided into three equal parts. One part is al lowed for the
width of the pinion leaf and two parts are allowed for space.
The pitch of 60 degrees is divided by 3 to obtain the width Figure 2

of a leaf which would equal 20 degrees allowing 40 degrees

for space.
With a 6-leaf pinion, the total driving angle is equal
to 60 degrees. The drive starts 17 degrees, 44 minutes, 13
seconds before the line of centers and continues after the
line of centers for 42 degrees, 15 minutes, 17 seconds. Note:
The number of degrees that the drive starts before the line
of centers can vary when certain conditions exist. For ex-
ample, if the pinion is slightly too large, the drive will start
farther from the line of centers and, if the pinion is too small,
the drive will start closer to the line of centers. The friction
which occurs in gearing when the drive starts before the line
of centers is called ENGAGING FRICTION, and the friction
which occurs when the tooth is driving after the line of centers
is called DISENGAGING FRICTION. Engaging friction is I

a forced butting and sliding type of friction, whereas dis-

engaging friction is more of a sliding, separating type of
friction . Engaging friction caused by the action before the line
of centers places more pressure on the pivot and pivot hole
+I
than does the action and friction after the line of centers.
Engaging friction is found with pinions which have a low
number of leaves such as 6, 7, 8 or 9. This is because the drive
starts before the line of centers when these pinions are used . Figure 3

It is always best to select pinions of 10 or more leaves when-

ever possible to avoid engaging friction.
Since the drive starts before the line of centers on
a 6-leaf pinion, in order to avoid a butting action as the drive
starts, the addendum profile of the leaves should be made
epicycloidal or pointed. This is shown in View "a", Figure
2 by dotted lines. The addenda of 6-leaf pinions should never
be made with a semicircular rounding as shown in solid line in
View "b", Figure 2. When the addendum of a 6-leaf pinion
is made with a semicircular rounding, there is likely to be a
butting action between the wheel teeth and the ends of the
pinion leaves as the drive starts. This is especially true if the
pinion is slightly too large in diameter. If the depthing be-
tween the wheel teeth and the leaves of a 6-leaf pinion is
I
too shallow, there is likely to be a butting between the wheel I
teeth and the ends of the pinion leaves, especially if the I
addendum of the pinion leaves has a semicircular rounding. WHEEL: 70 TEETH f
A satisfactory shape for the addendum profile for a 6-leaf
pinion is when the radius for the addendum equals the width
~~~~:: To~~AVES /
I
of the leaf. The curve gotten with this radius will follow very I
i...
closely to an epicycloidal curve. The width of the wheel teeth
should equal one-half of the circular pitch of the wheel.
I
I --r--
,
7-LEAF PINION I
Figure 3 shows a 7-leaf pinion which is being driven
by a wheel with 70 teeth, giving a ratio of 10:1_ In this case,
the width of the pinion leaves equals one-third of the circular
pitch (as with a 6-leaf pinion). The circular pitch equals 360
degrees divided by 7 leaves. This would be 51 degrees, 25
minutes, 42.86 seconds. One-third of this would be 17 degrees, grees, 25 minutes, 42.86 seconds. The driving angle before the
8 minutes, 34.28 seconds which would equal the thickness line of centers is 11 degrees, 30 minutes, 27 .86 seconds, and
of a leaf. The space would equal 34 degrees, 17 minutes, the driving angle after the line of centers is 39 degrees, 55
8.56 seconds. minutes, 15 seconds. The 7-leaf pinion should have an adden-
The total driving angle of a 7-leaf pinion is 51 de- dum profile which has a radius equal to 5/6 of the width

January 1989 /Horological Times 33

 Figure5

Figure 4

!I
I

, ~
r-
I
11

~F-
1
f70,, ~,,,,"' ,,.A '
WHEEL: 64 TEETH I/ 30 --~,
.a.i.1'0
,,.
,,/\
'\
l
WHEEL: 75 TEETH I
r--- _,,/'
PINION: 8 LEAVES I
RATIO: a: I I -1----- o,~ ..,... 0
Pl NION: I 0 LEAVES
RATIO: 7. 5: I
I

Ii

of the pinion leaf. The width of the wheel teeth should equal two gears. The circular pitch equals 36 degrees (or 360 degrees
one-half of the circular pitch. divided by 10). The width of the leaves equals one-third of
the circular pitch or 12 degrees (36 degrees divided by 3).
8-LEAF PINION The width of space equals 24 degrees (2/3 of 36 degrees).
Figure 4 shows an 8-leaf pinion being driven by a The total driving angle equals 36 degrees . The drive before
64 tooth wheel which is a ratio of 8 :1 between the two gears. the line of centers equals only 1 degree, 20 minutes, 7 seconds.
In this example, the thickness of the pinion leaves is also one- For all practical purposes, one could say that the drive starts
third of the circular pitch with two·thirds allowed for space. on the line of centers, although the drive starts on the line of
The circular pitch equals 360 degrees divided by 8 which centers with a 12-leaf pinion and higher numbers. The drive
is 45 degrees. The thickness of the leaves equals 15 degrees after the line of centers for a 10-leaf pinion is 34 degrees,
which allows 30 degrees for space. The total driving angle 39 minutes, 53 seconds. This indicates that most of the fric-
equals 45 degrees. The drive starts 7 degrees, 17 minutes, tion on a 10-leaf pinion is disengaging friction. There is very
30 seconds before the line of centers and continues 37 degrees, little engaging friction since the drive starts so near the center
42 minutes, 30 seconds after the line of centers. The 8-leaf line. Since the drive starts so near the center line on a 10-leaf
pinion should have an addendum profile which has a radius pinion, the addendum profile can have a semicircular rounding
equal to 2/3 of the width of the pinion leaf. The width of the without any ill effects. The width of the wheel teeth equals
wheel teeth equals one-half of the wheel's circular pitch, one-half of the wheel circular pitch leaving one-half of the
leaving one-half of the pitch for space. pitch for space.

10-LEAF PINION 12-LEAF PINION

Figure 5 shows a 10-leaf pinion which is driven by a Figure 6 shows a 12-leaf pinion being driven by a
wheel with 75 teeth. This gives a ratio of 7.5 to 1 between the 96-tooth wheel. This gives a ratio of 8:1. The circular pitch

34 Horological Times/January 1989

 Figure 6

~-
\ \

o/'\ ',
WHEEL: 96 TEETH '-----'~ '!> 0 '
PINION: 12 LEAVES
RATIO: a: I
?>?>'\<Ir
. /'
~--?J'l..

of the pinion equals 30 degrees (360 degrees divided by 12). before the tip of the driving tooth can go into action on the
The width of the pinion leaves is 2/5 of the circular pitch flank of the pinion leaf; therefore, the unneeded tips of the
or 12 degrees. The space equals 3/5 of the circular pitch or wheel teeth can be eliminated or just rounded off. See View
18 degrees. The total driving angle is 32 degrees, 33 minutes, "b", Figure 7.
14 seconds instead of the 30 degrees necessary. This means
that for 2 degrees, 33 minutes, 14 seconds, two teeth will
be driving at the same time. The drive starts on the line of "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month .
centers which means that there is no engaging friction. All
of the friction is disengaging friction. The drive after the line
of centers equals 32 degrees, 33 minutes, 14 seconds although
only 30 degrees are needed.
The addendum profile of the pinion leaves has a
semicircular rounding, and the width of the wheel teeth
equals one-half of the wheel's circular pitch, leaving one-half
of the circular pitch for space.
With pinions of 12 or more leaves, the drive starts QUARTZ, MECHANICAL, ALL TYPES
on the line of centers; therefore, the addendum of the pinion FAST SERVICE
leaves is never used. In this case, the addendum could be
eliminated (see dotted line View "a", Figure 7). The very tips
M.J. WATCH REPAIR SERVICE
of wheel teeth that drive pinions with 12 or more leaves never 631 Prospect Ave., P.O. Box 15026
Cleveland, OH 44115
come in contact with the flank of the pinion leaves during
(216) 861-1472
the drive and are not needed. The next tooth starts its drive

January 1989/Horological Times 35

 ~ILITABY
TI~E
Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMG, FAWI

AIRCRAFT CLOCK, TYPE A-7 and A-11

WALTHAM The location of the jewels in a 9-jewel movement
was as follows:
2 upper and lower balance hole jewels

I
n many of Waltham's timepieces, the model number 2 - upper and lower balance caps or endstones
or grade identified some of the features associated roller jewel
with the timepiece. For example , in these models, 2 - pallet jewels, receiving and discharging
the first two digits (22) indicate that the movement is 22 size; 2 - upper and lower escape wheel hole jewels
the third (8), 8-days; the (09 or 11), number of jewels; (S) The 11-jewel movement had all of the above plus
center second; (21) 12-hour dial, and (TT) elapsed time two upper and lower pallet arbor hole jewels. The marking,
hands. The stem and winding knob on type A-7 was located 9- or I I-jewels, was stamped on the center second bridge.
at the 6 o'clock position while on the A-11 they were in the However, I have found that many of these clocks marked
lower left corner. 9-jewels were actually I I-jewel movements, and vice versa.
Often where interchangeability was possible, repair personnel
switched and/or cannibalized similar movements in order to
expedite repairs. Although I am reasonably sure that this may
IDRLTHam RIRCRRFT CLOCK
explain part of this aberration, I was told by a production
TYPE R-11 engineer that even though some contracts may have speci-
fied a 9-jewel movement other than I I-jewel movement (de-
8 Day - 9 Jewel - 22 Size pending on the production run), it was cheaper and faster for
Waltham to stay with what was on line.
Waltham production records list only the 22809
model, the basic movement. The first of ten production runs
began in December 1942, the first movement number being
3I,220,001, for a total of 135,000 movements. Production
runs for the 22809 were as follows:
Run Starting Date Serial Numbers Quantity

December 1942 31 ,220,001-31 ,230,000 10,000

2 March 1943 31,280,001-31 ,290,000 10,000

3 May 1943 31,351,001-31,361,000 10,000

4 July 1943 31.416,001-31,426,000 10,000

5 November 1943 31,561,001-31,571,000 10,000

6 January 1944 31,631,001-31,641 ,000 10,000

Waltham ffiodel 22809-S-12 W.T.S.-23 7 July 1944 31,681,001-31,691,000 10,000

8 August 1944 31,834,001 -31,844 ,000 10,000

Waltham ffiodel 22809-S-T.T.-12 W.T.S.-30 9 October 1944 31,899 ,001-31,904,000 5,000
(All material same as 22809-S-12 except Crystal which is
fitted with Elapsed Time Hands). 10 May 1945 32,114,001-32, 164,000 50,000
 Figure 1 . Type AN5743 Aircraft Clock. Figure 1a. Type AN5743-T1A Aircraft Clock.

Figure 1 b. Type AN5743-1 A Aircraft Clock. Figure 1c. Type AN5743-L 1A Aircraft Clock.

Figure 2. Exploded view of Type AN5743 case and movement assembly.

January 1989/Horological Times 37

 \
Figure 3. Exploded view of Type AN5743-T1A case and movement assembly.

©
I

I I

Figure 4. Exploded view of Type AN5743-1 A case and movement assembly.

Figure 6. Pillar plate.

Figure 5. Exploded view of Type AN5743-L 1 A case and movement assembly.

Figure 7. Barrel and train.

The center second bridge was stamped Waltham, USA,

22S - 9 or 11 jewels, 3 ADJ s. The movement number usually
appeared on the pillar plate, near the balance assembly. How-
ever, in others it appeared on the barrel bridge or not at all.
Two different sizes of monometallic balances were used. One
was small, 10.5 mm in diameter (light was Waltham's descrip-
tion), and the larger (heavy) measuring 13.0 mm.
The following aircraft clocks were manufactured to
specifications number AN-C-99 and AN-C-99-A

Waltham Part No. Type No. USAF Type No. Navy Stock No.

22809-22809A • AN5743 (Fig. 1) A-11 R-88·C·583

22809-TIA AN5743·T1A (Fig. lei A-11-TlA

22809-lA AN5743-1A (Fig. lb) AN5743-1A

Figure 8. Top plate and winding.
22809-LlA AN5743-L1A (Fig. le) R-88-C-583-11

22809-Tll A .. AN5743-TL1A R-88-C-583-011

with one revolution of the hour hand. One revolution of the
•same movement as 22809 with a design change in the pallet and escape wheel.
.. same as type AN5743-T1 A except it had a longer winding knob. minute hand equaled one hour, and one revolution of the
sweep second hand equalled one minute. The numerals and
All of the above aircraft clocks were encased in the graduation were printed on a durable dull black dial and paint-
standard 2W' bakelite aircraft case fitted with glass crystal, ed with a nonluminous matte green material visible only in
gaskets, snap rings, and a front winding and setting mechanism, daylight or white light. For night use the heavy rectangular
containing a 22-size, 8-day, 9- or 11-jewel sweep second move- graduations at 3, 6, 9, and 12, the round dot graduations at
ment. Basically, these five types were identical, having only 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, and numeral 12; and hands from cen-
minor changes in the appearance of the dial, hands, and wind- ter to their tips were painted with a luminous material. On
ing knobs (see Figures 2, 3, 4, and 5). type AN5743, each 5-minute graduation was indicated by a
The dials were graduated into 12 hours corresponding small numeral. The hands were coated with a luminous material

38 Horological Times/January 1989

 Figure 9. Winding and train. Figure 11. Dial train.

Figure 10. Center second bridge and escape.

from their centers to their tips.

Types of luminous material, hands, and winding

knobs were:
Figure 12. Cross section through balance and
hairspring.

Type sweep
Type Dial Assembly H111nds second hand Winding Knob

AN-5743 Phosphorescent Phosphorescent Spade Short - .468"

AN-5743-TlA Fluorescent Phosphorescent Spade or Dart Short - .468"

or Fluorescent

AN-5743·1A Fluorescent Fluorescent Dart Short - .468"

AN-5743-L i A Fluorescent Fluorescent De rt Long - .843"

AN-5743·TL1A Fluorescent Fluorescent Spade Long- .843"

The clocks were mounted either from the back or

front of the aircraft's instrument panel with two mounting
screws. AN5743, AN5743-1A, and AN5743-L1A originally
required Elastic Stop Nuts but later they were furnished with
either Elastic Stop Nuts or Tinnerman Nuts. However, types
AN5743-T1A and/or AN5743-TL1A required Tinnerman
Figure 13. Hour wheel.
Nuts.

January 1989/Horological Times 39

 The winding of these clocks was accomplished by
turning the winding knob in a clockwise direction. The set-
ting was accomplished by pulling the winding knob out about
3/32 inch and rotating it either left or right as required. When
the knob was released, it returned to the winding position by
itself. The winding and setting mechanism was integrally
mounted into the case; thus, it was not necessary to remove
when removing the movement from the case.
Waltham's model 22809-S-TT-12 utilized the same
movement. It was encased in A-7 and A-11 type cases but was
fitted with Elapsed Time hands. On the inside, through a
center hole in the crystal, an extra pair of red hands were
attached to a 12 to 1 ratio assembly which enabled the pilot
Figure 16. Dial and hands, Type AN5743-L 1 A and Type
to check the duration of his flight. A small knob on the out- AN5743-1A.

side of the crystal permitted the Elapsed Time hands to be

set.
To determine the Elapsed Time, the elapsed time
hands were set so they were superimposed over the clock's
regular hour and minute hands. As the regular clock hands
continued to rotate, the red hands remained stationary. At
the end of the flight, the Elapsed Time was determined by
noting the differences or displacement between the two sets
of hands.

Figure 17. Type AN5743 case assembly; Type AN5743-

1 A case assembly (crown projection .468"); Type
AN5743-L 1 A case assembly (crown projection .843").

Figure 14. Dial and hands, Type AN5743.

Figure 18. Type AN5743-T1A case assembly •

. . . if you 're not doing it . . .

. . .You Should Be .. .
Figure 15. Dial and hands, Type AN5743-T1A.
using your AW! casemark!

40 Horological Times/January 1989

 FORUM
The FORUM is a column devoted to the discussion and
debate of horological piffle, practices, and problems.
Comments can be controversial, but should always re-
main within the bounds of good taste . Responses should
be sent to : AWi FORUM, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati,
OH 45211.

Albert Dodson Ralph Geiger

CMC CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMBHI

Starting the New Year on a Positive Note

A LETTER required to put forth a substantial have a watch that is in working
IN REGARD TO CERTIFICATION amount of time, study and deter- order thanks to what I learned in
mination before they can expect Seattle.
've just been notified that I to achieve a passing score. Richard Mann

I have passed the Master

Clockmaker exam. I have good.
AWi, you make me feel

not been this happy since I was 16 Nino Gonzales

years old when I passed my driver's HOW DO YOU DO IT?
test. I've had it. I can't take
Competent authorities have any more. If I see another Y481
different opinions about the AWi IN PRAISE OF BENCH COURSES or another Sessions tambour I'll
certification programs. Some feel Many thanks for your letter, scream. I am bored silly. I hate the
that the exams are not vigorous which arrived today. It was my stuff on which I am working, but I
enough to entitle the examinees to intention to write to you and thank love being a horologist. Please tell
the certificate awarded. I respect you for your excellent course. As me how you do it. How do you
their opinions and accept them you know, I have been involved in relieve the boredom? How do you
only as opinions. horology for a little over a year and create new interest for your work?
Perhaps my view of the was concerned whether I had What kind of challenging goals do
AWi certification programs is one enough experience to benefit from you set for yourself to prevent you
that recognizes that their primary the course. I can assure you that I from becoming a babbling idiot?
purpose is to educate the crafts- am very pleased that I did attend My only hope is to find some way
person. In my opinion AWi has and found it to be a most helpful to cope before they come to carry
done an outstanding job in pro- two days. It was also nice to meet me awa ...
viding the prospective examinee some members of AWi for the first
with information, materials and time. GOT AN OPlNION?
guidance. The exams are not easy, Incidentally, I had with me
at the course a verge movement GOT THE FACTS?
and they are not meant to be, but
they are not impossible either. , In that was complete except for the WRITE US WITH YOUR THOUGHTS!
addition to demonstrating knowl- chain. I have since made up a chain
edge and skill, the individual is from various odd lengths and I now

January 1989/Horological Times 41

TIHIE PHCIKiLE IAllEL
Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Uncommon Jewelrq Repairs

eing a jewelry craftsman means being a repairman, The most common problem is found in the catches,
manufacturing jeweler, goldsmith, silversmith, dia- and the next is in the hinges. Most of these have the hinges
mond setter, stone setter, and a sort of "jack-of- and catches soft (lead base) soldered in the ends of the tubes.
all-trades." This especially applies if you are located in a small Often the solder breaks loose. This is simple to repair by
community. fluxing inside the end and the part of the catch or hinge with
I was a retail jeweler, watchmaker, and jewelry crafts- a torch heat enough for the solder to flow after the catch or
man in a small community for many years, and received many hinge has been aligned in place. Sometimes a srnall amount of
requests for unusual repairs. I used to wonder if one morning soft solder must be added. With experience in soldering we
when arriving to open the store a team of horses would be know how to pull solder by moving the heat, so this is actually
waiting with a request for me to nail shoes on them. It seemed a simple repair. The repair may become much more compli-
that other businessmen in town would send the unusual re- cated when the catch or hinge is actually broken, but most of
pairs to me. I was expected to repair musical instruments, these are simple and can be made from brass or nickel silver
automobile speedometers, and fishing reels. One time I was and for the hinges using tubing. When a catch is missing it
contacted to make a small fiber piece for the switchboard at sometimes means redesigning a catch and making it. Although
the telephone exchange as an immediate repair so that ser- the bracelet may be made of karat gold, usually the attach-
vice would not be tied up while they were waiting on one to ments are made of a base metal.
be located and shipped. To me all these things were a chal- Today's WATCH BANDS found on the newer watch-
lenge and most of them could be met by using common sense, es made of metal have hinge joints and clasps. Many are put on
logic, and my training and experience. Some of the unusual with screws, and the hinged sections have places that can be
repairs that are really jewelry-related are catches and hinges on removed for shortening. These screws can be bought in assort-
bangle (tubular hoop) bracelets, watch band catches, link- ments, but a good way to collect them is to save any when
type diamond watch bands, carmen bracelets, antique rings removed for shortening. Band replacement is available for
and jewelry, catches and safety chains on necklaces and brace- some makes as well as catches and safety chains. However,
lets, belt buckles, and silver turquoise jewelry. most have to be ordered and will be back-ordered if you agree
BANGLE BRACELETS are a tubular hoop to be to take it when it comes on a no-return basis. So, in many
worn on the wrist but if solid will not go over the hand. Some cases, I find the bands are repairable as well as many of the
are round tubes while others are oval. In order to go over the catches.
hand they are made in two pieces with a hinge on one end and Sometimes where silver or gold soldering is needed,
a catch on the other; they open up enough to go over the hand, if the bands are electroplated the metal will discolor, so this
then close up and the clasp will snap, holding it in a small should be explained to the customer when taking in the repair.
round circle or oval so as not to come off the wrist. Some of Customers will pay good prices for the repairs on watch bands
these are made of gold-filled, some of karat gold, some of and catches because if these are ordered the waiting time in-
sterling silver, while some of the less expensive are made of volved can be several months and the price in many cases near
base metal and electroplated. Over the years I have had many to what the watch originally cost. Plus, customers do in most
of these to repair. cases appreciate quick service.

42 Horological Times/January 1989

 Several years ago a certain type of diamond watch There is a type that has multi-stones and is very deli-
band was popular on ladies' solid gold and diamond watches. cate because many of the stones are half pearls, opals, garnets,
These were made with melee diamonds set in flat square set- and other delicate stones. Although the larger stones such as
tings usually in white gold with a backing of either yellow or garnet , ruby, or amethyst in round, oval, or other faceted cuts
white gold plate open in the back, and fastened on the corners are prong or bezel set, the half pearls, some opals, and garnets
with posts about .8 mm, leaving side and end openings about that are small and round are cabachon cut and set slightly
.8 mm. These were hinged together by threading .6 to .8 mm countersunk with the metal pushed up and over the edge of
wire through the sides making a hinge on each end where it the stones with a sharp graver which makes a rather insecure
was fastened to the adjoining link and gold soldered. holding. In sizing these rings larger or smaller it is possible to
Often through rough usage or fair wear and tear these loosen some of these stones, and some may fall out.
would break in one of the joints, or sometimes a solder joint Some customers feel that these rings were made to
would come loose. These can be repaired by removing the old be worn constantly, so they'll wear them everyday. But these
wire and installing new, or in case of the solder coming loose, rings weren't made for this type of rough usage. When one of
just realigning the wire and gold soldering the end. I have re- these comes in for repair, the customer should be told of the
paired many of these and have even made new links to go risk in working on the ring, and when finished it should be
on the ends to lengthen them without using a diamond. As worn with discretion, because there is no warranty on the ring
these were quite expensive a good profitable cost estimate can or the work performed. It should be done only at the custom-
be made for this type of repair and customers will gladly pay er's risk. Replacement stones are readily available for most of
it. There are many of these diamond bands still in use. Many them, but odd cuts or sizes may have to be special cut. When
people are getting the old diamond watches that have been metal work is required on these rings usually all stones must
beyond repair for years and having quartz movements installed be removed and reset, which can turn out to be a mammoth
in them so when there bands need servicing they will be project. In resetting these stones, sometimes it is better with
brought in for repair by a competent jewelry craftsman. the consent of the customer to set them in Aron Alpha® ce-
Years ago CARMEN BRACELETS and imitations of ment than to try and repair the settings. The old rule still
them were quite popular and not too durable . Today they are applies that if the customer is willing to pay for any repair
considered antiques. These bracelets were made of a bracelet they are entitled to the service as long as the workman can
similar to a scissors X-type of band such as the watch bands make an attractive and durable repair.
that were popular prior to the twist-o-flex band (that is still ANTIQUE FILAGREE RINGS sometimes come in
popular). Each joint was made up of two metal bars with a for sizing or repair where the sides are worn . Sometimes if a
tubular rivet in the center making an X and a spring going diamond or stone is set in it, the setting may become worn.
through this tubular rivet. Each of these had a cap, with the Most filagree rings that I have encountered have been white
tops usually being gold-filled and the bottom ones stainless metal usually l 4K or l 8K. To make these rings larger or small-
steel. Then the caps were installed with the ends of the springs er special care should be taken when rounding them out on the
in the caps after the outer ends were riveted together some- mandrel with the rawhide mallet. This filagree is easy to damage
times with hollow rivets and other times with solid rivets. in changing the arc, but in sizing these, very few have created
These formed the bracelet. However, for a watch, ends were any problems. When the sides are worn from wearing next to
put on to fit the ends of the watch. For carmen bracelets other rings, most customers will agree to having solid sides put
they were rivet-attached to sometimes a heart-shaped, double on as these are hardly visible when the ring is worn.
heart , or just a round ornament, which was usually gold-filled One point to remember when soldering around fila-
on top and stainless steel on the bottom. When this was gree is to apply the heat slowly so the heavier metal has a
finished it would stretch enough to go over the wrist and made chance to come up to the melt temperature of the solder at
a very attractive bracelet. Like the watch bands, they did the same time as the filagree does so as not to cause the fila-
have rivets that came loose , but by removing the top and bot- gree to melt. Most diamonds set in filagree rings are set in flat
tom cap of the links covering this rivet it could easily be re- settings with beads, and these repairs can be handled in the
riveted and the caps replaced. same manner as any flat setting repair if care is used not to
There was enough of demanded repair when they melt the adjoining filagree.
were popular that kits were available with replacement rivets, BELT BUCKLES are not always made of pot metal
springs, and tools for holding and riveting. At that time it was or inexpensive materials. Some are made of karat gold or
a profitable repair but now that these are considered antiques other precious metals. Many are made of silver with engraving
they are much more profitable for anyone having the knowl- or embossing, some have stones of turquoise or agate, and
edge and skill to repair them. Like any other repair of this some made of brass or nickel silver will warrant repairs when
type, there is no step-by-step instructions on how to do it; needed.
however, a craftsman with jewelry experience should be able Since belt buckles are much heavier as a rule than
to use common sense and logic to figure out how to make it. pieces of jewelry that we are used to working on, we have to
ANTIQUE RINGS are somehow becoming more use more heat when making solder repairs. Before making re-
popular, and we are now seeing more of them coming in for pairs on belt buckles, always make sure you know what kind
repair or alterations. Since there are many types and styles of of metal they are made of. Sometimes they are made of more
antique rings, I will point out some that require special care than one component riveted together, so make sure the metal
in handling. you are soldering will take the heat and that solder will flow

January 1989/Horological Times 43

on it. Aluminum or aluminum alloys are not practical to solder. keep in mind that it requires much more heat than when
Some types of pewter (pot metal) can be soldered by using a soldering other metals. Silver is a much better conductor of
soldering iron. However, if a stone setting is riveted on a nickel heat and will carry away the heat so fast that it is difficult to
silver or brass base, do not apply heat to the base because the make the solder flow. When ring sizing silver rings with stones,
pewter will melt. Karat gold, gold-filled, silver; or brass buckles I shield the stones by wrapping them in wet tissue. If while I
can be silver- or gold-soldered. Making these repairs can be am applying heat the tissue happens to dry on the edges
done profitably because even though the repair may cost more enough to scorch before the solder flows, I remove the stone.
than the article did when new, there usually is sentiment at- Then the whole ring can be heated to make the solder flow.
tached that makes people want them repaired and willing to This takes practice and experimentation.
pay. I have made repairs on silver rings, necklaces, brace-
Several years ago turquoise-silver jewelry was at the lets, watch bands, and belt buckles with or without stones.
height of its popularity. Now, however, it is unusual to see any The charges were always comparable to the charges made for
of this jewelry come in for repair. These pieces of jewelry can comparable repairs on karat gold jewelry.
be repaired even though the turquoise stones sometimes have In the next article we will discuss remounting rings.
to be removed and reset. In soldering silver you must always

BOOK REVIEW
HOW TO BUILD A REGULATOR CLOCK by J.M. Huckabee. and design of the products of the most prestigious Swiss watch
82 pages, looseleaf binding, 79 drawings, 14 photographs. Pub. manufacturers. The history of each producing company and
by AWI Press. their principle personalities is recorded here together with
photographic essays of their wristwatches. The companies
J.M. Huckabee is a Certified Master Clockmaker and represented are, in alphabetical order: Audemars Piguet,
an award-winning Fellow of the British Horological Institute. Baume Mercier, Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, Chopard, Corum,
In this book he instructs those desiring to build a clock from Ebel, Gerald Genta, Girard Perregaux, International Watch
scratch with a full set of shop drawings and critical construc- Company, Jaeger-Lecoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Rolex,
tion notes. Ulyse Nardin, and lastly, the oldest continuous producer of
For the main plates he recommends the use of 1/8 watches-Vacheron-Constantin.
inch aluminum with pivot hole bushings made of 1/4 inch In the Foreword of this book on Swiss luxury watch-
brazing rod material. Wheels of leaded brass are specified and es, Wolfgang Fulde (its editor) relates the motivation for his
pinions from cold-rolled steel bar stock, integral with their literary project and the admiration for present-day horological
arbors. Escapements for these clocks are Graham dead beat. excellence so worthy of documentation. Each company's
A wheel detail chart indicates the tooth numbers, history and its development, personalities, artisans, and no-
pitch, addendum, blank size, bore, and recommended cutters. table products are described. Each company gets its tum in
Other charts indicate center distances and parts making. As alphabetical order. Thus, the first company discussed is the
to cutting the wheel teeth, Huckabee supplies charted informa- one that started in 1874 by Jules Audemars and Edward
tion on tooth count, pitch diameter-which the author notes is Piguet, both in their early twenties. Its growth and notable
the U.S. system, compared to the metric module standards products are featured, along with the company's pocket and
used elsewhere. All dimensions are in inches. wristwatches, which include some grande complications, al-
Each part instruction is offered as an individual job most all in limited production series, as well as a well-publicized
sheet, each with one or more pages of drawings and instruc- wristlet tourbillon watch.
tion. The author designed this project with the view of the Blancpain is represented, after its history, by a minute
reader using readily available materials with a minimum of repeating woman's watch. A man's minute repeating watch
types of materials and tools. These include a small lathe, drill followed a year later in 1987 with automatic winding mechan-
press, grinder, a variety of hand tools, and the lathe should be ism as well as with moon phases and perpetual calendar.
equipped for gear cutting with indexing features available. A The house of Breguet is discussed next with a short
Unimat 3 or similar device is also recommended. For the ama- history of its founder in the 18th century. Older masterpieces
teur clockmaker making a workable project or a professional are shown next to look-alikes of the late 20th century descen-
clockmaker who in his spare time desiring to produce his dants in wristwatches. From Paris, the current firm is stationed
own regulator, this manual should point the way to a re- in Le Brassus, Switzerland. A number of pages are devoted to
warding work and learning experience. behind-the-dial scenes of modem, wrist perpetual calendar
Henry B. Fried mechanisms in enlarged, clear photographs.
The Cartier story, with its design triumphs in the
19th and current centuries, include the famous "Tank"
watch in which various historical accounts were supposedly
TIME IN GOLD-Wn"stwatches by Gerald Viola and G.L.
made in 1917. In this volume, it is stated that it was first
Brunner. Hard covers, 9":x 12", 250 pages, 450 watches in offered for sale in 1919, a long year after the formal hos-
color and b/w. Pub. by Schiffer Pub. Co., 1988. tilities ended on November 11, 1918. There is the oft-repeated
story that Louis Cartier designed this as an act of apprecia-
This is not a book on "vintage" wristwatches. Rather, tion for the contributions of the American tank commanders.
it is a contemporary report on modem-day, state-of-the-art America declared war on Germany on April 6, 1917. To ob-

44 Horological Times/January 1989

tain legislative legalities, the training of conscripted men , with grande complications, and of course the now-famous
draft legislation, the shipping logistics of sending battle-ready "Kalista," heavily diamond-studded bracelet watch with its
troops across the Atlantic with its submarine-infested enemy, 140 gram gold case, 118 emerald-cut diamonds between 1.2
took some time. The training and use of tanks, mainly French, and 1.4 karats each. Priced at 5 million dollars, it lasted only
until the engineering, design tooling to make these heavy a few hours on its debut before it was purchased (a few
American devices, must have taken much time to be shipped short years ago).
on available ships for combat. The am1istice of November The book ends with a good section on technical terms
1918 put a cease to a long, costly, and decimating war. Thus, and a good bibliography. This is an important book because
there are many who, while acknowledging the tank watch it is a fairly accurate contemporary report which can be
inspiration, question the otherwise-claimed 1917-1918 dates presently used as a source of reference and in the future will
for its conception, design, tooling, assembly, and distribution. supply many researchers with such information, the facts
In all company publicity releases, no original models are pic- gathered and edited by highly respected authorities.
tured or known to have been offered at auction. Nonetheless, Henry B. Fried
the Louis Cartier genius for design is not to be denied.
Chopard is represented by high-styled gem-studded
dials and cases with elegant designs, with some men's watches
having calendric complications. WATCHMAKING by George Daniels. 7W' x10W', 416 pages,
Corum shows coin watches, gambling and sports 669 figures, XVII in color.
motif dials and cases, some with auto-grill shaped cases and
dials. First published in 1981, this new printing contains
Ebel is represented by clear-cut, attractive designs, seven additional color photos of newly made watches and de-
strong masculine-appearing wristwatches. tailed photographs of the author's specially designed workshop
Gerald Genta also has fine designs, some with exotic and specialized equipment with which he uses to produce
motifs, while Girard Perregaux uses classic designs, high tech- completely by hand those very complicated watches.
nology, the first with a 36,000 vibration per hour balance and
This is the first (and still only) book that literally in-
special escapemen t. The company exhibits excellence in quartz
structs the reader on the proper procedures of making a com-
technology , Equation of Time wristwatches, stressing relia-
bility of perfonnance . plete watch, case, dial, movement, and all its parts from the
The International Watch Company, withitsAmerican- raw metals.
background founder , contains its history of supplying watches Author George Daniels is a universally acclaimed
to Germany in both wars. Watches shown are artful skele- horologist for both his knowledge and espeically for his
tonized wristwatches and pocket watches, some with titanium magnificent watches. His watches contain numerous services,
watch cases. calendric and timekeeping, with his own escapement designs
Jaeger LeCoultre is featured with its Minivox, sturdy, and revolving in tourbillon carriages.
good quality innovative technology. The company supplied In this new printing, a number of color photographs
raw movements to other makers such as Patek Philippe, have been added , showing sections of his extensive workshop
Meylan, and others. The Reversom watches were the first
and detailing color photographs of some of his new horolog-
automatic alarm watch.
ical masterpieces. Among these are precise lunar, sidereal and
Patek Philippe is covered rather well, showing the pio-
solar and mean solar indications. In one of these , the escape-
neering technology and excellence that has earned its top
status through the years. Early bracelet watches of 1850 are ment uses two escape wheels, and he employs one differing
shown, taking fifty pages to cover the history and products, by one tooth to complete the train indicating one time stan-
old and current, of this prestigious company. There are ultra- dard and the other escape wheel to complete the train of
complicated wristwatches of every description, and decora- another complex time standard. The details of these tour-
tive ladies' models in enamel and platinum. billon carriaged escapements also are pictured. The instruc-
The history and products of Piaget are covered, in- tions include methods of reproducing these.
cluding fine skeletonized men's watches with heavy gold The drawings are made by David Penny, a reknowned
bracelet unified cases, pave diamond dials and cases, and ultra- horological artist, who also is editor of the (British) Antiquarian
thin watches. Horological Society's Journal.
The 22-page section on Rolex discusses the company's In this encyclopedic work is virtually depicted the
pioneering water resistance efficiency in self-winding devices,
entire gamut of making parts for any watch with the excep-
sports models, and sturdy, heavy gold watches with chrono-
graphs as well as sturdy ladies' watches. tion of repeating mechanisms. For the experienced watch-
Ulysse Nardin, also producing a wrist tourbillon maker it is a veritable store of reference information on prop-
carriage escapemented watch, and their famous, newly pro- er procedures to make escapements, balances, hairsprings
duced "Astrolabium Galileo Galilei" watch that contains a for watches or chronometers, detents, calendar and equations
sun hand, equinoctial hour indication, local hour, a 30 mm pieces. For the apprentice this book is a bit down the road but
planisphere, ecliptic circle, equator indication, measure edge something to look forward to or read with expectant hopes.
indicator, a calendric indicator, moon hand, "dragon hand," But for those who do not own a copy, this is urgently recom-
and, of course, hour and minute hands. There are also skele- mended.
tonized watches all with traditional mainspring and balance Henry B. Fried
wheel escapements.
Lastly is Vacheron and Constantin, founded in the
last quarter of the 18th century, producing today very high-
ended quality watches on a limited production schedule also

January 1989/Horologi,cal Times 45

SHOPTALK
Wes Door, CMW

QUARTZ MOVEMENT INTERCHANGEABILITY CHART

PART2

Last month's chart included sizes T% ligne through 634 ligne.

This month we will continue starting with 7% ligne.

A B c D E F G H
A B c D E F G H
Our Ligne Thick- Model Features Dial Hands AWi
Feet Cell Our Llgne Thick- Model Features Dial Hands AWi
No. Size ness Number or inter-
Cell
changes Pos. No. No. Size ness Number or inter- Feet
chon•es Pos. No.
7',4 4.30 ESA 551.111 S.S./Cal. M G S22 8* 3.90 ESA 935.102 Use T
965.102
7* 4.30 ESA 951.111 Use ETA M G S22
551.111 2.50 ESA 956.401 u
8*
7* 3.10 ETA950.00I N E Sl2 2.50 ESA 956.431 u
8*
7* 4.30 ESA 551.101 N 3.00 FE 7020 u
8*
7* 4.30 ESA 951.101 Disc. N G S22 8',4 2.50 ESA 956.411 v
4.85 ESA 551.121 p
7* 8* 2.50 ESA 956.412 v
4.85 ESA 951.121 S.S. p G S22
7*
Day/Date
8* 3.00 FE 7021 S.S./Cal. v G S12

70)4 2.50 ESA 956.031 Replaces 8* 3.00 ESA 956.421 w

556.031 Q 3.40 FE 7022 w
8*
7* 2.50 ESA 956.032 Q 3.30 HP 6870
8*
T% 2.50 ESA 956.101 Q G S32
3.50
8* HP 6871
7* 2.50 ESA 556.031 Q 80)4 2.90 Ronda 3875 Replaces x D S22
7* 2.50 ESA 956.111 S.S./Cal. R G S32 875

7* 2.50 ESA 956.112 R 8* 2.90 Ronda 875 Disc. x D S22

Use 3875
7* 2.50 Junghans R 8* 3.20 ESA 581.001 Reg. y D S30
640.23 Second

7* 2.75 ESA 556.112 R 8',4 3.80 ESA 965.111 z 1

7* 2.95 ESA 556.111 R G S18 8* 3.80 ESA 965.112 Replaces z H S30
935.112
1* 3.00 ESA 956.121 S.S./D.D. s G S32
4.50 ESA 935.111 z
8*
1* 3.45 ESA 556.121 S.S./D.D. s G S32
4.50 ESA 935.112 z
8*
7* x 9!h 5.90 ESA 9241
8* 4.30 ESA 965.121 AA
8~ 1.38 ESA 256.041 G S38
or2.1 8* 4.30 ESA 965.122 AA

8~ 1.38 ESA 256.111 8* 5.00 ESA 935.121 AA

80)4 3.20 ESA 965.001 T 8* 5.00 ESA 935.122 AA

8* 3.20 ESA 965.002 Disc. T H S30 80)4 3.60 Junghans BB

633.00
8* 3.20 ESA 965.101 T
8',4 3.60 Junghans BB
8* 3.20 ESA 965.102 S.S. T H S30 633.01

80)4 3.90 ESA 935.002 Use T H S22 8* 3.60 Junghans cc

965.002 633.20

46 Horological Times/January 1989

 A B c D E F G H A B c D E F G ff
Our Ligne Thick- Model Features Dial Hands AWi Our Ligne Thick- Model Features Dial Hands AWi
No. Size ness Number or inter- Feet Cell No. Size ness Number or inter- Feet Cell
chan•es Pos. No. changes Pos. No.
8* 3.60 Junghans cc JOY, 4.00 Ronda 1073 KK
633.2J
IOY, 3.45 ESA 555 .422 S.S./Cal. G SIS
8* 2.60 Ronda 3S72 Replaces DD D S22 Corrector
S72
llY, 2.50 ESA 955.03J LL
S* 2.60 Ronda 3S73 DD D S22
11 y, 2.50 ESA 955.IOJ Disc. LL G SJS
S',ii 3.70 RondaS71 DD D
lJY, 2.50 PUW250 LL
S* 4.00 Ronda S72 Disc. DD D S22
Use 3S72 11 y, 2.60 Ronda 3972 LL
S',ii 4.00 Ronda S73 Disc. DD D S22 llY, 2.60 Ronda 3973 LL
S'/..xlOY, ESA 211.101 Small Sec. SIS 11% 2.75 Junghans LL
669.00
9 .9S ESA 210.001
11% 2.75 Junghans LL
9V.. 1.63 ESA 959.001 669.01

lOY, 2.50 ESA 955.401 EE llY> 3.00 PUW6SO LL

IOY, 2.50 ESA 955.431 EE G SIS 11\lz 3.25 ISA 119S/IO LL
IOY, 2.50 ESA 955.432 EE HY, 3.10 ESA 944.IOJ LL
IOY, 2.50 FE7120 EE 11 y, 3.00 FE 7220 LL
lOY, 1.95 ESA 255.41J FF lJY, 3.00 FE722J G SIS
JOY, 1.95 ESA 255.44J FF llY. 3.70 ESA 954.101 LL G SIS
lOY, 2.50 ESA 955.411 FF JI y, 3.75 Ronda 371 LL
IOY1 2.SO ESA955.412 S.S./Cal. FF G SIS llY.i 3.75 Ronda 372 LL
Corrector
llY.i 3.75 Ronda 373 LL
lOY, 2.50 PUW241 S.S./Cal. FF G SIS
Spaceline llY.i 4.50 ESA 952.101 LL
IOY, 2.75 ESA 92S.411 Use FF ll y, 5.50 ESA 9360 LL
555.415
llY.i 1.95 ESA255.lll MM I
IOY, 2.75 ESA 555.412 S.S./Cal. FF G SIS
2.95? llY, 2.SO ESA 955.111 S.S./Cal. MM G SJS

lOY, 2.95 ESA 555.411 FF l IYi 2.50 ESA 955.112 MM

IOY, 3.00 FE 7121 FF G SIS llY, 2.50 PUW 251 MM I

S.S./Cal.
I
IOY, 4.30 ESA 551.411 FF 11\lz 2.75 ESA 555.112 MM

IOY1 4.30 ESA 951.411 FF ll'h 2.75 Junghans MM

669.20
IOY, 3.00 ESA 955.42J S.S./Cal. GG G SIS
ll\lz 2.75 Junghans MM
IOY, 3.00 ESA 955.422 GG 669 .21
lOY, 3.25 ESA 92S.421 GG llY.i 2.75 Junghans MM
669.22
IOY, 3.25 ESA 555.422 GG
1IY1 2.75 Junghans MM
IOY. 3.00 PUW243 GG 669.25
10\lz 3.40 FE 7122 GG II y, 2.75 Jungham MM
669.26
lOY, 3.45 ESA555.421 GG
m~ 2.90 Ronda 3975 S.S./Cal. MM D SlS
IOY, 2.90 Ronda 3775 S.S./Cal. HH D Sl2
llY, 2.95 ESA 555.111 MM
IOY, 3.SO ESA 965.311 S.S./Cal. HH ff S30
ll\lz 3.00 FE 7221 MM G SlS
IOY, 3.SO ESA 965.312 HH
11\lz 3.10 ESA 944.011 MM I S20
lOY, 4.50 ESA 935.312 Disc. HH
llY, 3.10 ESA 944.111 Replaces MM I S20
IOY, 4.55 Ronda 1075 S.S./Cal. HH D Sl3 947.111
IOY, 3.35 Ronda 3777 JJ 11\'J 3.10 ESA 947 .llJ Use MM l S20
944.111
lOY, 4.30 ESA 965.32J JJ
11\lz 3.40 ESA 963.114 MM
IOY, 4.30 ESA 965.322 JJ
llY, 3.50 PUW 681 MM
10\lz 5.00 ESA 935.322 JJ
11\lz 3.50 PUW6SJA MM
JOY, 2.60 Ronda 3772 KK
JOY, 2.60 Ronda 3773 KK
The Quartz Movement Interchangeability Chart will be con-
JOY, 4.00 Ronda 1071 KK
' tinued next month. 'iiLII3

January 1989/Horological Times 47

 Thomas H. White

A LOT OR A LITTLE ?

hat have you been learning in your guild meetings plished. Some are easy, others are not. When others share their

W recently? A lot? A little? If we are honest with our-

selves we will probably admit there are times we
don't learn much of anything in the guild meetings or seminars
ideas, either to an individual or to a group, most of us will
incorporate some part of the idea in order to make our life
easier. While sharing information is one way of learning,
we attend, even though it has a direct relationship with our reading materials is another way.
livelihood. When looking through the want ads section, you will
There are lots of reasons why we don't learn the teach your eyes to catch different words or ads relating to
things we ought to learn. Sometimes we're not interested your profession or a personal interest! The other day I saw
in the subject or we're too tired to pay attention. Other times this ad: "Watch-Wrist. Rolex replica, men's and lady's"!
it just seems too hard or the teacher seems completely in- This is the watch we will be seeing in our shops in the near
competent. However, there's another reason (not often men- future, if not already. In the local paper one full page article
tioned) that has nothing to do with the teacher, the subject, says, "It looks like it's a Rolex, but it's sold for only $90.00."
or our well being. Sometimes we do not learn because we do The paper reads, "Some people call 'the fake items' harm-
not WANT to learn! less, but legitimate companies are crying foul!" Another
Learning is not just a function of the mind, it is also caption states, "Sophisticated Rolex scam is bilking thousands
a function of the will. The person who refuses to learn will of dollars." Be aware! It is your responsibility to inform the
not learn, whatever his abilities or the abilities of the teacher. customer concerning the timepiece he purchased prior to
There are a lot of ways of getting something accom- leaving the store. Make sure he knows: REPLICA or ROLEX!

NEWS .. .from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

NEW JERSEY wearing one in 1927. Rolex patented its self-winding mech-
At the October meeting of the Watchmakers Associa- anism in 1931. Mr. Lorenz showed slides of six basic Rolex
tion of New Jersey a presentation on Rolex watches was movements, describing the basic features of each. Although
given. Erich Lorenz, Assistant Vice President, and Technical Rolex sales are about 95% mechanical, the company does
Instructor Chuck Berthiaume were guest speakers. manufacture a high-grade quartz watch utilizing a Varta
The program began with a history of the Rolex firm, 303 power cell.
which was founded in 1908. Rolex marketed the first wrist- Following a Rolex film, there was a question and
watch with a lever escapement. In the 1920s, Rolex pioneered answer period. A number of points were raised concerning
the waterproof case; a swimmer crossed the English Channel servicing procedures and parts availability.

48 Horological Times/January 1989

 Guest speakers for the November 8 meeting of the FLORIDA
Watchmakers Association of New Jersey were Monroe and The 43rd annual convention of the Florida State
Richard Krasilovsky, President and Vice President, respec- Watchmakers Guild was held October 28-30, 1988 at the
tively, of the Empire Safe Company. Hilton Inn Gateway near Orlando, Florida.
Richard Krasilovsky described various types of safes The new officers are Gerhard M. Hutter, president;
in use today. Of particular interest was the fact that the older Michael E. Stacks, vice president; Aaron M. Rennert, secretary-
cast iron safes are relatively easy to break into . This makes treasurer; and Rose Rennert, executive secretary.
the owner of such a safe almost a target today; a modern safe Students and masters alike were abuzz with new
may not be worth the trouble to the criminal, when there is information and new ways of applying old knowledge. The
still a jeweler who has one of the old safes. speakers were Robert Bishop, Paul Finne, and Robert Nelson.
Using slides, Mr. Krasilovsky described the evolution The social functions kept the spouses and children
of the newest safes on the market. He showed a series of interested and entertained during the seminars and shop
pictures covering the UL testing procedure on a safe. The talk among old and new friends.
manufacturer provides a safe, which the technicians then The attendance was better than expected and en-
attack with drills, chisels, and cutting torches. If it resists a couraging, so much so that this prose has resulted:
specific degree of penetration for the required time, it is The creative juices flowii;ig
certified. and a speaker not showing
we all got going
at what we all are knowing.
We all had fun
something learned by everyone.
ARIZONA Don't cry and shout
The Arizona Watchmakers and Clockmakers Guild we know you feel left out,
held a meeting on November 18, 1988 in the Knights of so plan to attend
Columbus Hall in Phoenix, Arizona. next October (at the end).
A new member was welcomed to the guild. He is
Quincey Nguyen and his interest is in wristwatches.
The members voted to change their name from
the Central Arizona Horological Guild to the Arizona Clock-
makers and Watchmakers Guild. This change was felt to be MINNESOTA
necessary in order to provide the consumer with a more The Minnesota Watch & Clockmakers Association
meaningful identification of their profession. will hold their annual convention at the Radisson South
"Restoration of Packard Watches" was the program Hotel, Bloomington, MN on February 24 and 25, 1989.
presented by the restorer, Dr. Joseph G. Baier, a member of For more information contact Rose A. O'Fallon,
the guild. executive secretary/treasurer, 2837 Louisiana Avenue So.,
St. Louis Park, MN 55426. Phone (612) 925-4887.

UPCOMING CONVENTIONS

Minnesota Watch & Clockmakers Association

Annual Convention~
February 24-25, 1989
Radisson South Hotel - Bloomington, MN

Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania

Annual Convention
May 5-7, 1989
The newly elected officers of the Arizona Watchmakers and Clock·
makers Guild are, left to right: Sal Di Stefano, secretary; Bernie Guhin,
treasurer; Bob Macomber, president; and Tom Baggett, vice president.

January 1989/Horological Times 49

 Additional J.M. Huckabee, ''Random Clock Talks'' Tapes
Available
J.M. Huckabee continues to share his years of clockmaking TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours
and engineering experience on video tape through his "Random Clock SUBJECT MATTER:
Making an American clock verge.
Talks" series. Tapes 19 through 27 are the newest tapes added to the Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials
series. into a verge for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock-time
These tapes are intended for individual home study and are only.
not suggested for large group presentations unless the tape is previewed,
and a specific operation lasting no more than 45 minutes is selected for
showing to a group.
AWi members may borrow tapes from the AWi audio visual TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours
library. One tape should be ordered at a time; tapes should be returned SUBJECT MATTER:
within 7 days after receipt and insured for $30. A service charge of $5 Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clock from Tape
21.
should accompany each tape request. The new tapes in the series are: Random tips.
Cutting a 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia kitchen
clock.
TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours
SUBJECT MATTER:
Pivot work in the American antique Sessions, count wheel, clock move-
ment:
Lathe setup for pivot polishing.
TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours
Pivot working tools for the lathe.
SUBJECT MATTER:
Examining pivots and bearings for wear.
Pivot and bushing problems and their repair.
Discussion of the train and pendulum length of the movement.
Discussion on when hole closing is appropriate.
Repairs to the movement plates, including:
Pivot clearance.
Removal of ringing inside pivot holes by burnishing.
Closing some pivot holes. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours
Bushing some pivot holes using a drill press and preacher. SUBJECT MATTER:
The design and philosophy of lathe cutting tools.
A discussion on various kinds of steel.

TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours

SUBJECT MATTER:
Continuation of work with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19
Complete bushing work on the movement. TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours
Examination of the train. SUBJECT MATTER:
Discussion on correcting the wobble in the suspension spring. Clock mainspring and barrel work:
Observations and test run of the movement. Repair of the barrel arbor hook.
Discussion and demonstration of the proper tension for the fly Solving barrel cover problems-stretched barrels.
Examination and discussion of faults that were found and Bushing a barrel.
corrected. Dispelling the myth of not hand-winding mainspring into
Discussion on how the dimensions of a mainspring affect its the barrel.
strength. Replacing a barrel arbor hook.
Treating a worn great wheel.
Discussion of the value of a common clock such as this.
Dealing with suspension springs.
TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours
SUBJECT MATTER:

--------------------------------, Clock mainspring ends and barrel teeth

Huckabee demonstrates how to replace teeth in the barrel of
an Urgos B-day modern clock.
AWi AUDIO VISUAL LIBRARY
Huckabee fashions a new hole end for the mainspring.
3700 Harrison Avenue
Cincinnati, OH 45211

Enclosed find the service fee of $5 to cover the cost of borrow-

ing the Huckabee Random Clock Talks tape number • TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours
I understand that I am to return the tape 7 days after receipt, SUBJECT MATTER:
insured for $30. Understanding the antique American clock time train and repairs to it.
Huckabee examines and repairs a New Haven schoolhouse
clock.
Use of a quartz beat counter for regulation.
Street _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ __ _ _ _ _ __ Repair problems.
Using the Unimat lathe to polish pivots.
City _ __ _ _ __ _ _ _ ____ State _ ____ Zip, _ _ __ _

50 Horological Times/January 1989

New Products/News in the Trade
NEW GRACEFUL BRACELET able in better department stores.
DESIGN ADDED TO SEIKO'S SM H is the parent company to
JEWELRY COLLECTION such watch brands as Omega,
Two stunning ladies' watches, dis- Tissot, Rado, and Swatch.
tinguished by their unique brace-
let designs, have joined the Seiko
MINI-ELECTRONIC GOLD
Jewelry Collection. Both feature a
SCALE FROM KASSOV
black dial with goldtone hour
This pocket-sized scale is per-
markers.
fect for gold with 100 gram ca-
One watch incorporates a
pacity. Features include automatic
bracelet of floating link design
shut-off, large clear digital dis-
which assigns a feeling of weight-
play, tare capability, and low
lessness to this fashionable time-
battery indicator. This portable,
piece. The other (shown below
lightweight scale has a capacity
in photo) is artistically woven to
and graduation 0-10 gram by 0. 1
appear to be golden strands of
gram; 10-50 gram by 0.2 gram;
braid.
and 50-100 gram by 0.5 gram.
The Seiko Jewelry Collec-
Model number SC250 retails at
tion watches are available through
$199.00.
the company's nationwide net- For more information con-
work of authorized distributors. tact Kassoy, 28 West 47th St.,
New York, NY 10036; toll
free 1(800) 4-KASSOV; in NV Coca-Cola Watches from Time Segments.
State 1(212) 719-2290.

Gold Scale from Kassoy.

From Seiko Jewelry Collection.
NEW "E-Z-V"WATCH
HAND TRIMMER
COCA-COLA® WATCHES The new "E-Z-V" watch hand
FROM TIME SEGMENTS trimmer has been designed es-
Time Segments, a division of SMH pecially for watchmakers, jewel-
(US), Services, Inc., has intro- ers, and repairmen. The trimmer
duced a collection of authentic enables the user to cut precise
Coca-Cola® brand watches. Each V points onto the ends of most
watch dial features artwork select- any watch hand quickly and
ed from the Coca-Cola Company easily. It is designed to avoid
archives, which contain over 100 uneven points that require re-
years of America's best known peated time-consuming trimmings, PRECIOUS ANO PRECISE
advertising imagery. The introduc- first on one edge and then on the
tory line consists of six different other. Using the trimmer helps Precious gems and quartz accuracy are combined in these wrist-
dial motifs with 12 band treat· to give a factory-fresh look to all flattering watches, new to the Caravelle® by Bulova line~p for
ments including a silver-toned watch hand repairs, in one easy Spring '89.
expansion band, as well as pig- step. Each goldtone case is set with two diamonds and framed by
skin and burgundy and green The E-Z-V Trimmers are a braided bezel which continues onto the golden-hued stainless
faux-lizard bands. The watches available through an introductory steel mesh bracelet. Available with a black, octagon dial or a gilt,
contain ETA Swiss quartz move- offer for $24.95, a $5.00 savings oval dial, each features a precise quartz movement and a suggested
ments and are water- and shock· off the regular retail cost. There retail of $99.95. The models illustrated are (left to right): 46K02
resistant. Each watch comes pack- is a $3.50 shipping and handling and 46K03.
aged in a unique metal collector's charge. For more information, For more information, contact Bulov.a Corporation, One
box, with a suggested retail price write: L.P. Belmonte, P.O. Box Bulova Avenue, Woodside, NV 11377; (718) 204-3496.
of $49.00. The line will be avail· 0781, Hillside, IL 60162.

January 1989/Horological Times 51

DIAMOND FACT AND HEART-SHAPED BOXES FROM accommodate rings or earrings.
GEM TESTER FROM MAHAN BOX & DISPLAY CO. Keystone cost per dozen is
GESSWEIN "Rings, earrings, pendants, and $11.50.
The solid-state Diamond Fact uses pins are more saleable because The red paper-covered box
thermo-conductivity to distinguish they are more giftable for Valen- topped with golden ribbon bow is
between diamonds and simulants. tine's Day when specially pack- specially designed for rings and
Touch the tip of a heat pen to a aged in red, heart-shaped boxes," costs $7 .50 per dozen keystone.
mounted or unmounted stone. If said Gerry Hassett of Mahan The mini-shopping bag is
the needle displays red, the stone Box & Display Co. printed with "For You" in white
is a substitute; if it indicates Shown in the photo are on red with braided red han-
green, the stone is a diamond. two of Mahan's collection of dles. It comes in three sizes:
Stones as small as 0.02 carat are heart-shaped, crystal-clear heart 2Y.x3-1 /8" @ $30 per 100;
accurately identified. Diamond boxes designed to hold rings, 4x4W'@ $36 per 100; and 4-7/8
Fact can detect cubic zirconium, earrings, or pendants. Each box x 5-7 /B" @ $40 per 100. All
corundum stone, or glass instant· costs $4.40 per dozen keystone prices are keystone.
ly. and comes with its own packer. To order boxes or for
There are built-in diamond The red satin heart box more information contact Mahan nationwide (800) 251-7758; NV
and simulant test discs which with the white satin ribbon also Box & Display Co., 175 Great State call collect (716) 873-
provide a calibration control fea- comes with red interior that can Arrow Ave., Buffalo, NY 14207;· 2122.
ture to guarantee the accuracy
of this instrument. A built-in
metal alert buzzer gives a warn- DAVID BRAGMAN NAMED ON-SITE REGISTRATION AT tion is Noon to 5:00 PM on
ing signal when the pen is touch- VICE PRESIDENT JA'S FEBRUARY SHOW February 4, Second Floor Promen-
ing metal. OF DIODON, INC. FOR "EARL VBIRDS" ade, New York Hilton Hotel.
The Gem Tester is a coun- David A. Bragman has been named For jewelers arriving in New York Free pre-registration is open
ter top model which has all the Vice President of Diodon, Inc., it on Saturday, February 4, 1989, only to JA members. Any non·
features of the Diamond Fact was announced recently by Robert the day 6efore Jewelers of Ameri· member retailer who wishes to
for accurately and instantly testing Pliskin, President of Seiko Time ca's 1989 February Show opens, register in advance must pay $5
for diamonds or simulants. Its Corporation. Diodon is the Seiko there will be special "Earlybird" per badge requested. Otherwise,
features include lightweight pen distributor in the Southeast. In registration facilities so that they they may register at the Show
for touching the stone being his new capacity, Mr. Bragman can avoid the lines of opening itself, free of charge.
tested, easy-to-read meter, and will be responsible forthe manage- day and receive their admission For more information con-
metal alert buzzer which warns ment of the company. badges and Show information ma- tact JA, Rockefeller Center, 1271
you if the pen is touching metal. Mr. Bragman has been with terial upon their arrival. The Avenue of the Americas, NV, NY
Test discs are mounted on the the company since 1977 in key schedule for this early registra- 10020; (212) 489-0023.
front of the unit for added posts. For the past six years he
confidence in your test had been Vice President of Sales.
For further information Earlier, he had been Sales Man-
contact Gesswein, P.O. Box 3998, ager.
255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, A member of the Board of
CT 06605; (203) 366-5400. Directors of the Southern Jewelers
and Travelers Association and the
Florida Jewelers Association, Mr.
Bragman resides with his wife,
Erica, in Atlanta, GA.

Above: Gesswein's Diamond

Fact Below: Gem Tester.
Mrs. Kayoko Tomizawa (left), prominent equestrian sponsor from Japan
and a member of the Hattori family, and Mr. Katsu Nakamura (second
from right), general manager of Hattori Corp. of America, present a quartz
clock trophy and $5,000 check to the Seiko Open Jumper Stakes winning
rider, Armand Leone, on opening night of the annual National Horse
Show at Madison Square Garden. Mr. Leone rode Lassandro, which r.om-
pleted the course in the time of 20.86 seconds. Standing with them is
David Lindh, director of the horse show. Seiko has been the official timer
for the National Horse Show and sponsor of the Open Jumper Stakes event
David Bragman for the past 18 years.

52 Horological Times/January 1989

Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads
are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to
edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are
$4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date.
Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. August issue closed for copy
on July 1st.)

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211

(513) 661-3838

l'RFCISION TIME-TECH
Tradesman
. . ~ ..
S1.:n in: aml n·..,toraliou of Knit·'· Piagl·l. Paid.; Philippl'.
V~l'ht• rci11-Cou.,;( ;1111i11 . \111iq11 t· pod.l·I \\ald1na '\>l'c i:1ll\ ..
CLOCK WHEEL AND
s,, is'\-fr:iinL·cl r11a-.t n '' :lll'hmaJ..n. R11tn. Ll'r lilil'd. ( ll°sln~n · PINION CUTTING
p:.irl rna11uraclllrL'. 1:,pnJi L·111 'l'T'iL·l· :1ml pn1fL•s.,;i~111al
4u:ilil) . All" ork fully gu;1 r;111I L'L·d. Fast service - Write for free Brochure
PRECISION TIME-TECli and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes
POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, 850 Old Counlv Rd .. Bclmonl. CA 9.tOO~
St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698
hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, (.ilS) 595-9.B.t
Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St.,
Benton, IL 62812; phone: (618) 439-6995.
CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM
pinions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile FITTED to Diamond, Gold, Antique, Senti-
producing traditional square bottomed teeth, mental Watches and Pocket-al! sizes. Rolex,
Do You Repair Clocks? , 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven Omega, Longines, LeCoultre, Girard Perregaux,
sizes) , dead beat (set of four sizes). 'Ratchets Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton.
60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion:
FREE DELIVERY-FAST SERVICE~~---­ M42 High Speed Steel. and heat treated under ALFONSO ZAMORA, 280 Presidio Place.
Timesavers • 312-658-2266 vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and Buffalo, New York 14221; (716) 633-6138.
Box469 •Algonquin. IL 60102 CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices and
Send S2.00 to receive our new catalog. order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors),
Ltd .. Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bake- CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings,
house, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, material and tools. Custom made to order or
England. repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog
CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338,
Since 1922. James Bourne, CMW, P.O . Box Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268.
215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) TRADE WATCHMAKERS: Full service on
Quartz, Automatic, Rolex, Pock.et Watches,
532-3166 .
Retrofitting, & etc. 7 to 10 day service, work -------------------------
guaranteed, 40 years experience. K & L Service,
TIMING MACHINES-NEW AND REFUR- 413 Commercial St., Emporia, KS 66801;
BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON (316) 342-8479.
HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865;
CALL (814) 692-2285.
CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting,
DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: timers, air-
FINEST QUALITY,. quantity works wekome. craft clocks, antique clocks, pocket watches.
Send sample for estimate. NIEGELS HORO- 4.
Specialize on changing dial feet positions to
fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: LOGY, Roy Niegel, CMC, CMW, 101 E. St. Joe
KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Drive, Spirit Lake, ID 83869. SASE, or call BEFORE AFTER
Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101. (206) 623-2452 (208) 623-4330.
Quartz Conversions
Diamond Dial Conversions
Watch wheel cutting. repivoling and staffing . Emblem & Name Personalization
ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE
WE CAN MAKE ANY PART WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR:
WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP Write for Brochures
Free estimates. references on request. • TICK-0-PRINT/L&R
expedient services ar;e provided . SASE for brochure . WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO. INC.
WATCH-RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT
WATCH & CASEMAKERS, LTD. JACK PHILLIPS e ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE
P.O. Box 236
140 N . 7th Ave .. P. O . Box 1314 . .- 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 Old Chelsea Station
~ _--""~:~~ti'l·dtor.~A~-s~,;~-~.,..: >.~\· New York, N .Y. l 0011
FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338

-------------------------J
January 1989 /Horological Times 53
Classified Ads

Watch-Jewelry repair concession. Best 3 year

For Sale TOSHIBA
contract, includes engraving, key making, watch
sales and jewelry. 1988 gross $150,000.00.
California Central Coast, P.O. Box 5224,
WATGH BATTERY Vandenberg, CA 93437, or (805) 734-3010.
DENVER DIAL CO. We refinish watch dials
only. In business for 35 years. Wish to retire. TERRITORIES
Most suitable for a watchmaker or trade shop. SELLING COMPLETE WATCH SHOP. $4300.
Can do in garage, home, basement, or office. AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE O.B.O. (916) 272-3264.
Call 1-800-525-5182. Ask for Art.

5 on tearstrips & LATHES-COLLETS new/used, center drills.

Crystal Fitting Service for the modern quartz
SASE to D. Eiman, 3603 E. Indianapolis,
watches. Flat mineral glass only. $6 .00 each. OEM trays Fresno, CA 93726.
Send bezels only. We pay return postage. Cain's
Watch Repair, RD 2, Box 230K, Newport, PA
17074; (717) 567-9560. - Silver Oxide 400 DAY DOMES: 5%'' x 11" glass, $7 .50
- Lithium each, or 4 for $26, UPS included. For price
Herschede Gathering Pallets Min.@ $12.00 plus list of 35 other glass and plastic domes, send
$2.50 shipping. Offset #22109 and Straight SASE to: C.A. Zimmerman, P.O. Box 8973,
#22106. Light finishing needed to fit. 541 DISTRIBUTORS ONLY! Ft. Collins, CO 80525.
Goethe, St. Louis, MO 63122; (314) 821-0129.
Write on your letterhead
Electronic Watch Service Manual & Catalog- for details WATCHMAKING
Illustrations & Instructions for measuring, EQUIPMENT AND G-S
testing, regulating and part numbers. 179
movements, over 200 pages. $49.95. Also: TOSHIBA WATCH BATTERY CRYSTALS FOR SALE:
Clock Movement Catalog, 250 pages, $35.00.
P.O. Box 19 L& R TEMPO 400 Cleaning
THE GERMAN CLOCK INDUSTRY Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . $1000
Sales * Service * Information Company Congers, NY 10920 VI BROG RAF VC 10 Cleaning
P.O. Box 17351, Irvine, CA 92713
Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . $1000
L&R TC 47A Tickoprint Compact
MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed Timing Machine w/MU35
CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD lowest prices-as low as $2.30. 2-yr. guarantee. Microphone . . . . . . . . . . $750
CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Large selection of hands and numerals. Free
Save time, money, and work re-covering delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Hall L&R Electronic Demagnitizers-$25
bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor- Clock Shop, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte.
NC 28205. G-S Crystals 25 C System-$750
mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to:
G-S Crystals 25 C System-$750
JANDi GOGGIN
Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 G-S Crystals:
CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec- Complete ET, AT, TT, DT, KT,
tronically with the new CTI Clock Timer.
etc. sets-?6. advertised prices
Can be used on almost any clock with mechani-
Retrofitting material, Retro-Quick, new ma- cal escapement. Pendulum clocks large and All items are slightly used but in
terial for filling caseback simply and easily. No small, lever or cylinder escapements, anniver- very good condition. Call immedia-
liquids, moisture or shrinking. $29 .95 plus sary clocks, etc. For information write: Can tely for information. We only have
$2.00 shipping. H.R. Ferguson, 4443 Janice Tho Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, a limited supply:
Marie Blvd., Columbus, OH 43207. CA 92138.
1-404-457-9686
One hand tall clock movement all original, Antique Watch Co. of Atlanta
WATCH REPAIR STORE, fully equipped, 2075 Savoy Drive
wonderful opportunity for watchmaker. Estab- early 1700s, Phil Walton at the Devices on the
lished 10 years. Illness forces immediate sale. dial, $850.00. Hamilton 21 chronometer, Atlanta, GA 30341
Sacrifice $6,000.00. Ft. Lauderdale, Florida gimbled box, carrying case, excellent, $950.00.
(305) 938-9313. Will trade. H.N. Webster, 3700 Hall Ave.,
Sebring, FL 33872. 813-385-8924.

BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! Help Wanted

Suppliers for mechanical watch Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC-
parts. Hard-to-get GLASS crystals H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301.
for hunting and open face pocket WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER-Busy South
Florida clock store. Send resume and address
watches. Same day service. inquiries to: Carl Jackson, 1210 N.E. 163rd St.,
GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE
Nationwide Watts 1-800-777-8962 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 N. Miami Beach, FL 33162 .
PAR1S AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS
THE BUTTNER COMP ANY, INC. FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, HAL- WATCHMAKER AND CLOCKMAKER needed
Karl Buttner, CMW
LER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHANICAL- for busy wholesale and retail repair business.
2312 San Mateo Place NE
QUARTZ-ELECTRONIC-CIRCUIT BOARDS- Experience required. Send resume to Carlos
Albuquerque, NM 87110
MAINSPRINGS-SUSPENSIONS SPRINGS and Ynugai, 416 Main St., Room 816, Peoria,
"A watchmaker for the watchmakers" MOVEMENTS, ETC. IL 61602.

54 Horological Times/January 1989

Watchmaker needed for full time work to
service quality timepieces that range from WANTED
antique pocket watches to modern-day quartz
watches. The standard of our operation will be Casting Equipment/Watchmaker's Tools- Watches Wanted
a pleasant surprise to you. Resume to: 2214 Equipment, material and crystal systems,
Michigan Avenue, Ste. G, Arlington, Texas
76013 ; (817) 261-9068.
benches, cabinets, old broken or un-
claimed wrist and pocketwatches; watch Wrist and Pocket
factory pictures, displays or signs. Need
G.F. 14K/18K Hamilton electric, Accu-
WATCH REPAIRMAN POSITION. (313) 559- tron, S.S. or Gold Moonphase Chrono-
5329. graph, LeCoultre Alarm/Futurematic, A.
Lange watches, IRV BARD.
AVON METAL SERVICE, LTD.
Fitzjohn Jewelers seeking a qualified and P.O. Box 17484-(414) 351-0933
experienced watchmaker to work indepen-
Milwaukee. WI 5321 7
dently on all types of watches. Please contact
Mr. Joe Hein at 9557 E. Las Tunas Dr., Temple
City, CA 91780. Phone (818) 286-1584.
Job opening available March l, 1989.

One sweep second pinion for Rolex 745. We desperately need for our retail
Expert clock- and watchmaker for one-year Contact Mike Tsou, 4713 Leadenhall Drive, customers fine watches by:
project. Restoration of high-quality pocket, Richmond, VA 23234.
wristwatches and fine clocks. Benefits. Loca-
Rolex, Palek Philippe, Cartier, Vacheron &
tion: South New Jersey. Enclose resume. Constantin, Gubelin, Audemars Piguet, Movado,
Send to Box HWOl-89 , Horological Times, Old wristwatches desperately needed. Illinois, Hamilton, E. Howard, Illinois, Elgin, Waltham, etc.
3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box I1011, Cin- sterling watches, unusual Hamiltons, digitals,
cinnati, OH 45211. Rolex, Patek, chronographs, hinged lug, and es- We are paying top prices for any high
pecially military. Parts, dials, movements also. quality, unusual or complicated
Top prices paid. Also loans on watches. Call
for details. Jewelers' Row Money Loan, 111 Wrist or Pocket Watches
Books S. 8th St.,Phila., PA 19106; 1(800)LOANS-88.
Orronographs, Doctors Style, Moonphase, Calendars,
Curvexes, Repeate:s, Diamond Dials, Enamels,
We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap Railroads, Military, Multi-Colors, Keywinds,
AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, Hunting Case>, Automatons, etc.
sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour
NEW WRISTWATCH BOOKS!!
payment return mail! Ship insured/registered When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch
ROLEX 1905-1899 mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY,
HANS WILSDORF: EVOLUTION OF TIME
by George Gordon. 650 watches. Advertising
253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401.
Established 1960. Phone: (803) 722-207 3.
Call Us Toll Free 1 -800-84 2-86 2 5
and lots of Rolex information. Great color.
350 pages . .. ... .. . . . . . .. $150.00 In Texas 1-214-902-0664
***REVIEWED BOOK*** Always prompt immediate payment!
TIME IN GOLD: WRISTWATCHES by
G. Viola & G.L. Brunner. History of the Wingate's Quality Watches
18 leading Swiss luxury wristwatch com- P.O. Box 59760 Dallas, Texas 75229-1760
panies with 450 ill. mostly in color. 256
pages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $79.95
SCANLON AMERICAN REPRINTS CO.
P .0. Box 379 •Modesto, CA 95353 U.S.A.
(209) 667-2906

Why Not
Wanted To Buy
Drop Us
AIRCRAFT CLOCKS OR PARTS WANTED
FOR SALVAGE. BOISE PILOT SHOP, 3647
RICKENBACKER, BOISE, ID 83705.
A Note1
Collc.:tor need$: Patek Philippe, Co.rtier, Rolex EXPRESS YOURSELF!
V1cheron & Constuntin, E. Howanl, lUino~ Cubelin,
Audemars, M.o vado, Repe:uers. Keyw!nds, Moon-
phose. C:ilendo.rs, Railro:id, MUit:uy, Hunter =s. What you do like ... what you
Multi.Colored Colds, a.nd m:t11y mo"' W.ri.!twatches
and Pocketwatches. Call TOLL FREE 1-800.235- don't like about the
2866 or 913-383-2880 when you're ready to sell!
MILES SANDLER, Maundy International, Box Horological Times.
13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212.

January 1989/Horological Times 55

 Dates to Remember Ad Index
FEBRUARY 1989 MARCH 1989 American Perfit ....... .. . . . . . . . . 27
5- Florida State Watchmakers Association,
4-9-American Gem Trade Association Tucson Inc. All Day Seminar and Lunch, Comfort Borel ...... . . .. 7
Gem Fair, Doubletree Hotel, Tucson, AZ Suites Airport Hotel, 1808 Australian
(800) 972-1162. Avenue S., West Palm Beach, FL. Phone Bowman School. . . 13
(407) 689-6888. For more information James Butler. . ... . 21
4-12-- Gem and Lapidary Dealers Association write: FSWA, 589 Pine Street NW, Port
Show, Holiday Inn Broadway, Tucson, Charlotte, FL 33952 .
AZ (602) 742-5455 .
Gas-Ker Co . ....... . ... inside back cover
5-8-Jewelers of America International Spring
APRIL 1989 Charles CI eves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Show, New York Hilton and Sheraton
12-19-17th European Watch , Clock and
Centre hotels, New York, NY, (212) 489-
0023. Jewellery Fair (Basel '89), Basel, Swit- Esslinger . .. ..... .. . . inside front cover
zerland.
10-13-California Jewelers Association Con-
vention, Moscone Center, San Francisco, MAY 1989 Gem City College ...... . . . . . .. . .. 31
CA, (213) 628-3171 .
5-7-Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania
10-14-INHORGENTA 89, Munich Trade Fair Convention. Hobby Products ........ . .. . . . . . . . 8
Centre, Munich, West Germany . For more
information contact Gerald G. Kallman, JUNE 1989
Five Maple Court, Ridgewood, NJ 07450. Innovative Electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Phone (201) 652-7070. 20-22-Research and Education Council Annual ,
Meeting; Radisson Inn, located at Greater
Jewelmont Corporation . . . . . . . . . ... 29
12-AWl's First Regional Seminar, Foun- Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi for morn
tains Suite Hotel, 1-17 at Greenway Road, information.
2577 West Greenway Road, Phoenix, AZ. S. La Rose, Inc
23-AWJ Annual Affiliate Chapter Meeting; . 17
(602) 375-1777, outside Arizona (800)
237-9426. See coupon below. Radisson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. Livesay's, Inc . . 25
Contact AWi for more information .

24-25-AWI Annual Board of Directors Meet- Maxell .... . ...... .. . . .. 3

24-25-Minnesota Watch & Clockmakers Asso-
ing; Radisson Inn, located at Greater Cin-
ciation Annual Convention, Radisson South M.J. Watch Repair Service ... .
cinnati Airport. Contact AWi for more in- . 35
Hotel, Bloomington, MN. For more infor-
formation.
mation call (612) 925-4887.
Panasonic ..... . ....... . ... . .. . 5
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • R E G JSTRATION F O R M • • • • • • • • - - • " \

FIRST REGIONAL SEMINAR I

I Ray Gaber Co . ...... . . .. ..• .... 13
PHOENIX, ARIZONA
FEBRUARY 12, 1989
Seiko .... . . . . . . . . . . outside back cover

Toledo Jewelers. . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Tu mi Watch Co . . 29
Twin City Supply ... . 19
City __________ __ State._ ____ Zi p - - - - - - -
Timesavers .... .. . . 11
Phone ( ) _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ __ _
Vibrograf USA Corp ...... .. .... .. 25

Mail completed coupon to AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Zantech ... .• . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . 9
OH 45211.

--------------------------------------~
ANSWERS· TO LAST MONTH'S "WHO'S WHO" (on
page 4): A · Nancy Wellmann; B - Betty Danner; C - Mike
Danner; D - Margie Brater; E - Regina Stenger; F - Donna
Baas; G - Milton Stevens.

56 Horologi.cal Times/January 1989

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