Horti CBLM
Horti CBLM
Square system
It is the most commonly used method and easy to layout in the field. In this
system, plant to plant and row to row distance is the same. The plants are at the
right angle to each other, every unit of four plants forming a square. This system
facilitates the interculture in two directions after the orchard is planted.
Advantages
Rectangular system
In this system, the plot is divided into rectangles instead of squares and trees
are planted at the four corners of the rectangle in straight rows running at right
angles.
Like square system, this system also facilitates the inter-culture in two
directions.
The only difference is that in this system more plants can be accommodated in
the row keeping more space between the rows.
Advantages
Hexagonal system
Cultivation of land between the tree rows is possible in three directions with
this system. This system is generally followed where the land is costly and very fertile
with ample provision of irrigation water.
Advantages
Disadvantage
Quincunx system
This system is exactly like the square system but one additional tree is planted
in the centre of each square.
The number of plants per acre by this system is almost doubled than the
square system.
Fruit trees like papaya, kinnow, phalsa, guava, peach, plum etc. can be
planted as fillers in the permanent trees provides an additional income to the grower
in the early life of the orchard.
The filler trees are uprooted when the main orchard trees start commercial
fruiting.
Contour system
This system is usually followed in the hilly areas with high slopes but it is very
much similar to the square/rectangular system.Under such circumstances, the trees
may be well planted in lines following the contour of the soil with only a slight slope.
Triangular system
In this system, trees are planted as in the square system but the plants in the 2nd,
4th, 6th and such other alternate rows are planted midway between the 1st, 3rd, 5th and
such other alternative rows.
This system provides more open space for the trees and for intercrop.
IRRIGATION SYSTEM
Learning Objective:
Irrigation is a critical part of modern farming today, there are many different farm
irrigation systems available to do this. With the right installation, it is possible to keep
unlimited acres of fields productive, even when they are far from any water source of water
or if rainfall is not sufficient. Deciding on the best irrigation method for each farm requires
some planning, so working with an experienced farm irrigation system supply company is a
farmer’s best choice.
1. Flood Irrigation
Companies that supply farm irrigation systems have equipment to distribute water for flood
irrigation in these ways:
2. Sprinkler Irrigation
Hand Move Pipe – Sprinklers are attached to the end of a thirty or forty foot section
of aluminum or PVC pipe. These pipes are installed end to end down a row or section
of field and are called a lateral. Laterals are usually spaced about forty feet apart.
Solid Set – Permanent underground PVC pipe is installed throughout a field with
risers coming off of them with a sprinkler installed on top. Spacings between
the sprinklers can be from forty to over one hundred feet depending on the size and
type of sprinkler used.
Hose Reel or Traveling Gun Systems – One large sprinkler is installed on a cart
attached to hose on a larger reel. The cart is connected to a tractor and is pulled
down the field for setup, unreeling the hose from the reel. When water runs through
the system, the sprinkler operates and the reel turns, winding up the hose and
pulling the sprinkler and cart in.
3. Drip Irrigation
4. Micro Irrigation
1. Irrigation makes it possible to grow cas h crops which give good returns to the
cultivators. Examples of cash crops are; sugarcane, potato, tobacco etc.
3. It improves the yields of crops which mean more income for the farmer people
prosperous.
4. We use it to help the growth of crops during the period of inadequate rainfall.
1. Involves the use of small diameter poly tubing with emitters and is used to apply water to
a small area directly to the root zone of a crop.
a.micro irrigation b. drip irrigation
2. Irrigation water is directed down furrows that have usually been graded to a specific
gradual slope for the most uniform application.
a.graded border irrigation b. furrow irrigation
c. solid set irrigation d. center pivot irrigation
3. Sprinklers for this irrigation method are installed along the machine suspended from
rigid or hose drops.
a.center pivot irrigation b. solid set irrigation
c. hand move pipe irrigation d. hose reel system irrigation
4. Permanent underground PVC pipe is installed throughout a field with risers coming off of
them with a sprinkler installed on top.
a.center pivot irrigation b. solid set irrigation
c. hand move pipe irrigation d. hose reel system irrigation
5. Irrigated water is directed down a narrow strip of a field with raised earth borders on
each side.
a.graded border irrigation b. furrow irrigation
c. solid set irrigation d. center pivot irrigation
ANSWER KEY 3.1-5
1. B
2. B
3. A
4. B
5. A
DIGGING HOLES
Learning Objective:
The better the foundation, the better the end result. That’s true not only for buildings
and ideas, but also for trees! Make sure your fruit trees get off to the best possible start by
giving their roots a great place to grow.
Elmer walks through the easy steps of how to
dig the perfect planting hole: the foundation
of success for any fruit tree grower.
Growing an exceptional tree starts with the simplest thing: a good planting hole. Dig a great
hole, grow a great tree! Today we’re going to show you how to dig and prepare the best
planting spot for your fruit tree. 1.Choose the spot in which you want to plant the tree.
Spread a plastic tarp on the ground on one side of it on which to deposit dirt. That way, all
you have to do is lift the tarp to backfill the hole.
2. Loosen an area of the ground equal to about two to three times the diameter of the
tree's root ball. Use a pickaxe if the ground is rocky. If the ground isn't rocky, use a round-
point shovel, pushing it into the ground repeatedly with your foot.
3. Dig the hole with a round-point shovel. Push the blade about halfway into the
ground, tilt it back to loosen the dirt, then lift the dirt out of the hole. Don't push the shovel
in too deeply, or you could crack the handle when tilting. Save your back by filling the
shovel about halfway -- not all the way -- with dirt.
4.Dig the hole no deeper than the height of the root ball. Loosen the soil in the
bottom of the hole to a depth of 8 to 12 inches, as well as the soil on the sides of the hole,
with the shovel. The pressure of the shovel usually compacts this soil on the sides,
especially if it contains a lot of clay.
5. Build a 4-inch berm around the edge of the hole after you're finished planting the
tree and fill the berm with mulch. This makes it easier to water the tree and keeps weeds
away.
Materials
You’re only going to need a few things to prepare the perfect planting hole:
2. A bucket
There are 3 things your fruit tree will need from the soil:
nutrients
To make sure that your soil can meet all 3 of these needs, we’re recommend amending
(mixing) it with coco-fiber medium. Soak your coco-fiber brick at least 15-20 minutes before
planting, to ensure that it’s loose and mixable with the soil.
1.Choose the spot in which you want to plant the tree. Spread a plastic tarp on the ground
on one side of it on which to deposit dirt. That way, all you have to do is lift the tarp to
backfill the hole.
2. Loosen an area of the ground equal to about two to three times the diameter of the
tree's root ball. Use a pickaxe if the ground is rocky. If the ground isn't rocky, use a round-
point shovel, pushing it into the ground repeatedly with your foot.
3. Dig the hole with a round-point shovel. Push the blade about halfway into the
ground, tilt it back to loosen the dirt, then lift the dirt out of the hole. Don't push the shovel
in too deeply, or you could crack the handle when tilting. Save your back by filling the
shovel about halfway -- not all the way -- with dirt.
4.Dig the hole no deeper than the height of the root ball. Loosen the soil in the
bottom of the hole to a depth of 8 to 12 inches, as well as the soil on the sides of the hole,
with the shovel. The pressure of the shovel usually compacts this soil on the sides,
especially if it contains a lot of clay.
5. Build a 4-inch berm around the edge of the hole after you're finished planting the
tree and fill the berm with mulch. This makes it easier to water the tree and keeps weeds
away.