Warhammer Tutorials. Step 1.

Using a watered down regal blue, paints the entire engine and everywhere you want there to be glow. The further away from the 'core' of the engine the blue goes, the brighter the engine will appear. The brighter the engine the more power being supplied to it. So for an idling engine, keep the blue close to the port, for a flaring engine, have it cover the entire black area and maybe even some of the red outline. I have done an engine that is idling while the marine walks around on the ground.

Step 2. Next, you want to mix in twice the amount of enchanted blue as regal blue, again watered down a bit. The same principles above apply, the further away from the centre the brightness goes, the more active the engine will look.

Step 3. Now mix in some ice blue into your mix, you will have to judge the amount of ice blue you want in. I usually do about 30% of the amount of regal/enchanted blue there. But the brighter the colours, the greater the engine glow.

Step 4. Finally, some pure ice blue goes in the very center of the engine to represent the firey core idling.

And you are finished. here is a shot of a completed jumpack, next this example one.

Question: How do I do a engine at full throttle. As I said above, make the colours brighter and reaching further from the core. And make the very center of the engine 50/50 ice blue and skull white. Question: I want to do a different colour. No worries, it will work for anything. Some examples are. Dark Angels Green -> Snot Green -> Scorpion Green Red Gore -> Blood Red -> Blazing Orange Iyaden Dark Sun -> Golden Yellow -> White.

econd highlight complete; mechrite red: blood red: blazing orange: bronzed flesh mix (1:2:1:3)

Helmet and backpack attached.

After the first wash of Devlan mud. I wiped some of the wash off the helmet and shoulder pads with my finger as these areas wouldnt get as dirty.

After a wash of gryphon sepia into the areas which would receive the most dirt. The model is bases at this stage.

The model almost finished... just a few last things to touch ups, and of course the bolter. The eyes need to be redefined, and some further shading is needed on the gold and steel areas.

I have a power weapon painting tutorial now

here it is:

Brushes: the top brush is GW's fine detail brush, the bottom one is my finest brush for ultra detail.

The blade is base coated black

A mix of black and hawk turquoise is layered on where the lightning effect will roughly go.

More hawk turquoise is added to the mix and applied with the fine detail brush.

Pure Hawk turquoise is then carefully layered on, some ice blue can also be added to the mix.

A mix of ice blue and hawk turquoise is added with a very fine brush.

Raw ice blue is used to patchily highlight the previous shade.

A highlight of ice blue and white is added

Add very small patches of skull white.

A blue wash is applied to dull the colour.

The lightning is carefully re-highlighted with the ice blue-white mix.

The blade is finally painted with gloss varnish to bring out the contrast and protect from wear and tear.

Painting Battle Worn marines

After a black undercoat the model was sprayed red. If you don't have an airbrush Ill recommend a white or grey undercoat with a basecoat of blood red across the whole model. Note i have not glued the boltgun in place so i can paint it separately.

The white areas are then base coated with astronomican grey.

The red areas are washed with baal red and the white is highlighted with a mix of skull white and astronomican grey

The red is then highlighted and the areas where there are scuffs and scrapes on the armour with a mix (about 1:1:1:1) or blood red, mechrite red, blazing orange and bronzed flesh (dwarf flesh works if you don't have bronzed flesh)

More bronzed/dwarf flesh and blazing orange is added to the mix above so the ratio is now flesh range:blood:mechrite 3:2:1:1

Metal areas are then picked out with boltgun metal.

The gold is base coated with tinbitz or a mix of scorched brown and shining gold. Then highlighted with shining gold.

A little mithril silver is added to the shining gold and used for a final highlight. At this point you can highlight white areas white if you wish.

The freehand is planned out. Some people like to do a dot to dot, personally i use a series of thin lines

This is then filled out. This is a little wonky but it's only a table piece so doesn't matter really.

A mix of brown and black is lightly sponged on to create paint chips.

The model is washed liberally with devlan mud and gryphon sepia to simulate grime and muck.

The eyes are picked out in green and the model is based ready for battle.

If you are like me and like having a dozen meltaguns in your army then it's almost mandatory that you get these from the GW webstore. All the other options are just too expensive to consider except if you are particularly good as scratch building. Upon looking at them you will instantly realise that these are made for Space Marines. The hand that is holding them is armoured and way too big for a guardsman. Also the weapon is quite large and can't fit easily on the model. Some adjustment is required to make everything work.

So this is the meltagun in question. Obviously we need to remove the hand holding it at the bottom. We also need to remove the shoulder rest or else it won't fit on the model.

Easiest and quickest way to do this is by using a pair of clippers. Make sure you don't remove too much of it though.

After this make sure you smooth the surface using a file. This will ensure that the fit is better.

Now the meltagun should look like this:

I found that the best arm to use for the meltagun is the on holding the grenade launcher. All the infantry squads boxes come with one so you will probably have enough lying around.

We now need to remove the weapon. Use the clippers again but be extra careful since plastic is more squishy.

We should now have something looking like this:

If you like models to be extra sturdy, like I do, you should pin them before gluing them together. Make a small hole using your hobby drill in the meltagun where the hand should go. Then make one on the top of the hand so it matches with the hole in the weapon.

Make sure that now they fit together nicely. Might have to do some adjusting filing down any bumpy spots left.

And now for the big moment! Glue the hand with the torso and while it hasn't set yet find a way to fit the meltagun in and glue it to the hand using super glue. Can be tricky but it's the only way to be sure everything will fit together. Use the left hand for the grenade launcher. You might want to cut of the end bit that is sticking out of the fist or else it will push the whole arm away. Now you have an eager meltagunner to field in your glorious battles.

What you'd need. X-acto Small files Pin drill I start by clipping off the sights making sure to leave a little bit of the rear casing.

Next chop the entire barrel off. Make sure to hold it so it doesn't go flying into space. You'll need it. The trickiest part of this is getting the wings off. Make sure to use a new-ish blade and carefully shave it off. Watch out for those fingers. It doesn't need to be perfect right now. Also chop the bayonette lugs off. Push the blade in at an angle to make a notch. I do this in line with the pinky finger on the hand.

Shave the top edges of the casing to begin the rounding. Make sure to keep the notch that was made a hard edge. I shave one line, not worrying about roundness yet. If you look at the weapon from the top and break the casing into thirds, you're aiming to keep the center 3rd untouched and the other 2 are your shaved angles. That goes about the same looking at the sides but it's slightly taller. Continue to refine the edge until it's round. I do this by lightly filing and some x-acto scraping.

Chop the barrel to remove the little notch. Again make sure to hold it while you're cutting. It might need a little filing to make sure it's flat. Next take an X-acto or something sharp to plot out pilot holes. This could be whatever pattern. I do 3 holes on each side, then 2 on the top in line with the gaps between the 3.

Once that's set drill out shallow holes That's it for the gun. Next up is some optics. You could use whatever you like, or just leave it flat like the picture. Take an IG heavy weapons optic. I use the squared glass end so make a triangle notch just behind the centerline. I use a round file to do most of the work. Chop the other end off and continue shaping

That's it. Probably the most time consuming part of my plastic stormtroopers. I'll try to continue this with a full stormtrooper, but the rest is pretty straight forward GS work. Here's a completed Stormtrooper

Tutorials This is a tutorial for painting Faces to a good table top standard. The pictures in this tutorial involve a Blood Angel Space Marines face but the techniques can be applied to any model.

There are no majorly advanced techniques so hopefully any body will be able to pick up the tutorial and get their Models Faces painted quickly and to a good standard ready for gaming.

Painting Faces

Step 1. The face was first sprayed with a black undercoat and then the base colours were added. The skin was painted with Tallarn Flesh, the hair with Snakebite Leather, metals areas with Boltgun Metal and red areas with Mechrite red. A slight line of Snakebite Leather was also painted where the face and hair meet.

Step 2. For this step the first thing to do is to wash the skin with a heavy wash of Ogryn Flesh. Any metal areas are also given a wash of Badab Black.

The hair was then layered with Desert Yellow. This was done in thin lines rather than as a flat colour to give the illusion of hair. Then the red areas were painted with Blood Red and the eye lens with Dark Angels Green.

Step 3. For this step the skin is highlighted with Dwarf Flesh making sure to avoid the crevices so that the darker colour shows through. At this point the hair is also highlighted with Bleached Bone making sure to, like last time, highlight in thin lines to simulate hair. The red areas are then highlighted with Blazing Orange, the metal areas with chain mail and the eye lens was highlighted with Camo Green but leaving some of the Dark Angels Green showing in the top right.

Step 4. The skin in this step should be highlighted with Elf Flesh. This highlight should specifically focus on the raised areas of the face making sure not to cover too much of the previous layer The red areas were also washed with Baal Red and the lens highlighted with Goblin Green and then Scorpion Green in the lower left corner.. The eye was then painted Skull White and then a white dot was added to the Dark Angels Green area of the lens.

Step 5. For this final stage the very highest raised areas, such as the nose and cheekbones, are highlighted with Bleached Bone. The teeth are painted with Skull White and the pupil added with Scorched Brown.You should make sure that the pupil touches the top and bottom of the eyelids otherwise the model will have a startled expression. The whole face was then given a coat of Matt Varnish with the lens receiving a coat of Gloss Varnish.

RAVEN GUARD http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtop ic=213087&st=175

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/184185Tank%2C%20Tank%20Masterclass%2C%20Weathered.html http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=182707 Like studded shoulderpads? Have a hard time getting any, because they only come in a couple of box sets and cost upwards of $3 a piece at an online bits shop? Maybe I can help.

Alright, here's what you need: 1. a file 2. a pokey thing ( a needle works, but I use the top end of the wooden tool on the left) 3. your super glue of choice 4. a pin vise, and the smallest bit that comes with it. 5. a standard SM shoulderpad 6. glass micro beads, 1mm for the beads, here's a link to where I got mine. the cost is cheap, there's enough in the bag to do a

whole company of pre-heresy marines if you wanted to, and shipping is more reasonable than anywhere else I could find. You do have to make a quick little account though, which is free. Glass Microbeads if you find my link takes you to an out of stock listing, keep looking in that same shop and you should find what you need. color isn't important.

Step 1 File the trim from the shoulderpad like so.

Step 2 Take your needle tool and poke guide holes. You might want to identically match existing studded shoulderpads in your army, or create a new design you like. I wanted a few more studs than what is on the plastic shoulderpad.

Step 3 Take you pin vise and drill into your guide holes. not clean through, but just maybe 1/3rd to half-way, like you're making an impact crater from a bolter. If you find a hole doesn't line up with the others, redrill where it looks right; you can come back at the end and clean it up with a tiny bit of greenstuff.

Step 4 Take your glass beads, put a tiny bit of glue in the hole, and drop a bead in it (they're so small, I find it best you lightly lick your finger, and touch one on your table to pick it up. just set it in the hole from there) wipe away any excess glue after each bead. You might get a cleaner job by using a tiny applicator, or failing that, when you have the glass bead sitting on your finger, squeeze your super glue until a little

bit is coming out and lightly touch the bead to it, and then set it in the hole. Its also faster, as I can do 4 beads at a time, instead of going one by one.

Step 5 Use greenstuff to fill in any bad spots, and use your file to smooth any areas that need it, and you're done! Repeat step one on the other shoulder pad, and you have a proper pair of Heresy or Corvus pattern shoulderpads.

Now this one isn't finished, obviously, and so I'm going to do a quick breakdown on what I've done so far - including which paints and techniques I've used.

I started with some reasonably simple detailing. I added some brass in the front for track links and added some rivets cut from plastic rod. The stowage is put together from the boxes in my unreleased stowage kit and some of the SWM backpacks.

You can see some of the "Spent Shell Casings: Standard" used to add a bit of detail for the cupola mounted stubber -- and that I filled in the silly little portholes in the back of the vehicle.

Next up I gave the model a coat of burnt umber paint with my airbrush and, after it had dried, a generous helping of hairspray with a light sprinkling of salt.

After the hairspray had dried completely I added a bit of VMC Hull Red and VMC light red to create a lighter rust colour.

Once the red paints were completely dry I used a soft brush to remove all of the salt - which is how I got the light speckled effect - and a toothbrush to create the strong corner and edge chipping. On vehicles with a lot of wear you'll find that there are small sections of light rust, usually red and orange iron oxide, but that the heaviest weathering will be a dark brown or grey as the metal is exposed but not given time to corrode. By using the salt and hairspray technique to create two layers of rust before my base coat I can better capture this look. And then I used a very thin coat of satin sealer to keep these colours in place before adding more salt and hairspray. The sealer will keep the rust colours safe and the hairspray and salt will create the exposed rust/metal layer for me.

The first colour for my Steel Legion Chimera is a coat of VMC Light Grey. I gave the entire model a VERY light coating and then used a zenithal technique to add highlights to the top of the model from each side angle.

I used GW Rotten Flesh to freehand the camo stripes in a pattern similar to one I found on the GW website. I didn't do anything to create shading on these as I'll come back and do that in a couple of later steps using washes, oils and pigments.

Once the base coat and camo stripes are completely dry I used my soft brush and toothbrush to expose the rust and metal layers. On the cupola I only removed the salt as there is additional work to be done there before I expose any metal.

My feeling for the Steel Legion on Armageddon is that they've been in a protracted war for decades. Their planet is a mess and they need to carry around everything they can salvage. I captured this with the stowage and a classic blue plastic tarp. I also added a couple of the toolkits from my still unreleased (but coming soon) stowage set.

I then used Raw Sienna and Raw Umber oils to create a filter to join the colours together, Lamp Black to hit the recesses again and some Burnt Umber to create the rust streaking. At this stage I have added only a little bit of Ash Grey, Burning Sands and Oxide White from the Secret Weapon Weathering Pigments. The tracks will get generous coatings of each and some Metallic Iron to highlight them. I will also rub some Metallic Iron on some of the exposed metal edges to help make them pop a bit. And that's where I am right now. Fortunately now that the "Bone Fields" and "Blasted Wetlands" bases have launched I have a bit more free time and should be able to get back to the model this week. As always I'm happy to answer any questions about the techniques and materials I've used in this piece. -- misterjustin

Tools you'll need: -Various brushes (I used a reaper pro #1 and a games workshop fine detail) -A piece of foam or two (If you have an army transport case, the pieces of foam you pluck out work wonders, as does the blister packing foam) -A set of forgeworld weathering powders (I bought set 2 as it comes with some nice pigments, however I primarily used aged rust, light rust, and some bone dust) -A wooden pencil -Gw Charadon Granite, Boltgun Metal, Chainmail, Khemri Brown, Gryphone Sepia wash, and Delvan Mud wash. -Oil paint thinner Step 1. Prime and basecoat your vehicle, you may even want to give a light dusting of a matte varnish so as to protect the model's finish while you move it around to paint different sides. Prime the tracks separately; I used a rough equivalent of scorched brown primer on the treads then drybrushed with tin bitz and then boltgun metal after which i gave a 50/50 mix of water and khemri brown wash. Step 2. Define the amount of battle damage the vehicle has sustained. Every vehicle should have some story to it - this may seem like a silly step but it is what defines the model and gives it character. Step 3.

Begin the weathering! With your #1 brush go and put down the Charadon Granite anywhere you think the vehicle has has excessive wear, for example In the image below you can see where I added a large amount of granite to the sharp edges of the vehicle as well as around the top hatch. These would be the parts that encountered the most wear and tear as people would be climbing up and down the hull and opening the hatch a lot. The granite color represents the vehicle's "primer" wearing through the final coat.

To get the feel of how the paint would naturally chip or rust I highly recommend looking up images of rusted machinery as it helps understanding the erratic nature of rust and wear immensely . Here is a prime example:

At this point you should have gotten most of the large blobs done. Now its time to use your sponge. If the sponge is cubed or squared tear off the tip to create an uneven end. pointed ends I have found don't create an erratic enough patterning. Also it is a good idea to use multiple sponges with smaller to larger

sized ends for different sized jobs. Dab the sponge into the granite color and then dab a lot off onto a paper towel (similar to preparing a dry brush). When it comes down to it LESS IS MORE as you can add more chipping by creating multiple layers. Now begin dabbing on some paint and even rubbing it along your already chipped edges. Sprinkle the chips around randomly or if you have a spot in mind that say took some severe shrapnel damage layer that spot up. Remember be Random!! Lighter layers!! Step 4. Go back and touch up SOME of the areas you just painted with boltgun metal and then on even fewer highlight on top of the boltgun metal with the very sharpest points with chainmail. Remember that the weathering has no rhyme or reason! there is nothing uniform about it - and this is the key to making it look believable. Step 5. Pull out the pots of devlan mud and sepia. randomly tap the rivets with sepia and/or devlan mud to create a small pool around it. You then streak down with your brush as straight as you can - since the inks are relatively thin if you mess up you can always wipe it away quickly without leaving much mess. Sometimes the mess is a "happy mistake" and leaves you with a quite realistic effect. You don't have to do this to all the rivets but you can depending on how ramshackle you want the model to look. Keep in mind chaos is key, no uniformity.

After you've finished the rivets go back and examine the model looking for anywhere water or moisture would collect. As you can see in the photo above there is an abundance of rust where the top and bottom of the chassis meet. I assumed water would collect in the groove and thus create a rust point. This is where you would line it with mud or sepia or even a combination of both and continue to use the streak method as I described earlier. Step 6. Time to get into your weathering powders. Go back and look for where you think rust is its worst again and add some powder to your brush (preferably a larger brush) and kind of dab it into the recesses of

where rust would collect. Blow away or rub in excess powder. Open your oil thinner (make sure the room is well ventilated! This daemon fluid is near odorless but will fry brain cells and make you light headed quicker than flies on gak.) dab a brush in and then carefully drop it on the powders. it will make them spread and should seal them to the vehicle. Have fun with it. Powders are a lot different than paints so test them on something first. Step 7. Final touches go around and rub the lead of the pencil on some chipped edges (it gives a very realistic touch you can't get from paints) and then seal the deal with your matte varnish.