Method Statement
Method Statement
Revision No: A
Bidder: Viogensolutions
Method statement
Introduction
The purpose of this method statement is to describe the procedure which shall be
followed for installation of a new chain link fence and other related works as
described in attachment 1 as per SOW (specification of works) & also attachment
(a, b & c) in order to comply with specifications for the performance of the work
indicated above in the project number.
Methodology, instructions & safety procedures to be followed are highlighted as
below.
I. SAFETY
Safety is key for the above mentioned project, therefore measures will be taken
to prevent risks and hazards which might occur during theater of operations.
Common safety hazards and their mitigation.
1. Working at height.
Working at height must be properly planned and supervised, and certain approaches and precautio ns
should be adopted. These are:
Avoid working at height where possible. For example, if something can be assembled on ground
level, do it there.
Use equipment with an extra level of safety to reduce the risk of a fatal fall. For example, a
scaffold with a double guard-rail.
Minimize the consequences of a fall, for example by providing a safety net.
2. Moving objects
Reducing risks should always be a priority. Workers should always:
Uneven surfaces – The risk of these can be reduced by providing walkways that are clearly
designated as walkways, having good conditions underfoot, and being well lit.
Obstacles – Instances of slipping and tripping over obstacles can be dramatically reduced by
everyone keeping their work and storage areas tidy and designating specific areas for waste
collection.
Trailing cables – Cordless tools should be used where possible. If this is not possible, cables
should be run at high levels.
Wet or slippery surfaces – If a surface is slippery with mud it should be treated with stone, and
if it is slippery with ice it should be treated with grit. Any areas that are slippery should be
signposted, and footwear with a good grip should be worn.
4. Noise.
Use of noise reduction industrial ear muffs
7. Collapsing trenches.
Precautions for collapse need to be taken before work starts. If the project requires a trench, site
managers should:
Consider the kind of support that is best suited for the trench.
Ensure the trench is fully secure.
Regularly inspect the trench both before and during the work shift.
QUALITY OF MATERIALS
2. Quantity of tension bands per hook-up = height of fence minus one; minimum of three. For example,
a 4' high chain link fence requires 3 tension bands per hook-up.
3. A hook-up is each connection of chain link to an end or corner post. End posts have one hook -up;
corner posts have two hook-ups.
4. Place one brace band on first to use if bottom tension wire will be installed. This fitting requires one
bolt and nut. Install nut and bolt loosely.
5. Next, install tension bands. The tension bands are offset. The offset (flat side) faces 'out', the s ame
side as the chain link fabric will be installed. This is normally the outside of the enclosed area. Do not
install nuts and bolts on these.
6. Place one brace band per hook-up over the tension bands. This fitting requires one rail end cup, one
bolt and nut. This band and cup will be used for the top rail. Tighten with a ratchet and socket.
7. The rail end cup is offset also. This offset can be up or down on an end post. Regardless of if you
choose to position the cup up or down, be consistent. On a corner, since two sets of brace bands and rail
end cups must share the same space, the bottom rail end cup is to be offset up and the bottom rail end
cup is to be offset down. This enables the two ups to be level to each other, so your top rail can be
inserted into the cups and be level to each other.
8. Typically all nuts are kept on the inside of the fence; this prevents someone on the outside from
removing the nuts easily.
9. Place caps on posts. The end and corner post caps are simple. There is only one way to install them.
The loop caps, as they are called, are offset, if you look at them carefully. The offset side faces the
outside of the enclosure; the same side as the chain link will be installed.
POINTER ON STRETCHING CHAIN LINK FABRIC
1. After rolling out the chain link and weaving the rolls together, 'hookup' one end. Space the tension
bands evenly as illustrated above. Make sure the nuts are on the inside of the fence so they cannot be
removed from outside the enclosure.
2. If you have a sharp incline approaching a terminal post, the fabric must be cut on the end. This is
called a 'bias cut'. See details on how to make a bias cut in chain link fabric.
3. Pull the chain link tight by hand to the other end. You may stand the chain link and lean it against the
posts or leave it on the ground and lean it up as you stretch the fabric later. Generally the latter is easier
and better on long stretches.
4. Hook up stretch tools as illustrated on inside of fence (Fig. F51). Slide a tension bar 10-12' away
vertical in chain link fabric; hook stretch bar to it on inside.
5. Make sure the come-a-long hook faces away from the fabric or it may get caught in the diamonds.
6. Tighten the come-a-long slowly. Check that the fabric is not getting caught on posts, tree roots, or
other obstacles.
7. 'Dress' the fabric as you tighten it. 'Dressing' involves straightening the fabric diamonds so they run
true. This is vital for heavier gauge fabrics. Some spots will be higher than others as you sight down the
top. Lift the fabric in the low spots. This must be done before the fabric gets too tight. Once it is tight,
little can be done to straighten the fabric. Some fabric dresses easily, some does not. If the fabric does
not dress up properly, you can always loosen the come-a-long and try again. Check top and bottom
diamonds for any wires that may bind out of proper shape. Lift and shake fabric to assure an even
tension throughout roll(s).
8. The fabric is stretched sufficiently when you can't squeeze the diamonds together with one hand. Do
not over stretch or post damage will occur. The top of the fence should 'snap' back to the posts when
pulled out a little.
9. Hand stretch the small section of chain link left between the come -a-long and terminal post by hand.
Remove a weave to 'cut' the fabric to proper length. Slide the tension bar into the mesh and make your
last hookup. Once all bolts are in place, remove the stretching tools.
3. Installation of gates
Install female hinges on gates using nuts and bolts. Again, nuts should be installed on the inside
of the enclosure. Space them the maximum distance apart as possible.
Hold gate in opening and mark the location of male hinges. Point the male hinge on the bottom
up and the one on top down.
Install bottom and top male hinge with bolts. Tighten bottom hinge snug, but leave top hinge
loose.
Place gate on bottom hinge and lower top male hinge into female hinge.
If the space under the gate is acceptable. Tighten top male hinge snug.
Test swing the gate to see if it will miss the ground. Adjust as needed.
Tighten all hinge bolts. Do not over tighten.
Install the latch at a convenient height (nuts inside).
In the case of a double swing gate, install the gate closest to the ground first, unless the ground
is perfectly level. Hang second gate level to the first. Although you may 'step' the gates for a
tight fit to the ground, it looks best to install them level to one another.
Install double gate drop rod/latch assembly.
Install center stop for double swing gate. Close the double gate, making certain the two leaves
are lined up (straight w/ fence line). Mark the ground where the center stop needs to be
installed. You may simply use a cut-off piece of pipe as a center stop by driving it into the
ground. Proceed slowly, checking the gate to make certain you are driving the pipe straight. You
may also use a prefabricated center stop and cement it for a better appearance. If the center
stop is in a concrete drive, simply drill a hole in the concrete larger than the drop rod diameter.
Be sure to drill clear through the concrete drive to allow water to drain. Always make a much
larger hole (or pipe size) than the diameter of the drop rod to allow for gate sag, posts shifting,
ice and other factors.
Install gate holdbacks if desired. Open gate(s) to the desired 'open' position. Cement or drive a
2" O.D. post a couple inches beyond this point. Install holdback at correct height using U-bolts.
Install all post caps
Carefully unroll end of 4' to 8' of barbed wire and fasten by wrapping around starting post and
back onto itself at desired height for lowest strand.
Carefully unroll the barbed wire to end of fence.
Tension wire with Chain Wire Strainer at end. Cut wire to length and fasten wire at desired
height as done at the beginning
Cut barbed wire to length and fasten wire as done at the beginning.
The first wire should be adjusted (to obtain a straight line) along the fence line with light tension
by picking wire up to a height of 4' to 6' then dropping wire. This process should be repeated
until straight line from beginning to end is achieved. This process will allow wire to fall creating a
straight line for the fence to follow.
Fasten barbed wire to double extension arm with wire clip. leave room for wire to "float"
Repeat necessary process for additional wires.
These are also called electrified safety fences. These are used along with electric power for enhanced
security. A copper wire is placed inside the core wire of the razor blade.
Razor Wire Mobile Obstacle Barriers /Concertina Wire used for Military
Concertina wire or crossed razor wire are used for military purposes as it can be mobile and installed
fast and easy.