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Method Statement

This document provides instructions for installing a new chain link fence and repairing an existing one over a 60 day period. It details safety procedures, materials requirements, and step-by-step instructions for setting posts, stretching the fabric, and attaching other components like rails and ties. Proper planning and safety precautions are emphasized throughout the installation process.

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Mr Mrr
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
147 views9 pages

Method Statement

This document provides instructions for installing a new chain link fence and repairing an existing one over a 60 day period. It details safety procedures, materials requirements, and step-by-step instructions for setting posts, stretching the fabric, and attaching other components like rails and ties. Proper planning and safety precautions are emphasized throughout the installation process.

Uploaded by

Mr Mrr
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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PROJECT TITLE: Perimeter Fence installation and repair

Project number: MB22-060

Date issued: 01/21/2022

Solicitation No: FA5422-22-R-2002

Performance period: 60 days from notice to proceed

Revision No: A

Bidder: Viogensolutions

Method statement
Introduction
The purpose of this method statement is to describe the procedure which shall be
followed for installation of a new chain link fence and other related works as
described in attachment 1 as per SOW (specification of works) & also attachment
(a, b & c) in order to comply with specifications for the performance of the work
indicated above in the project number.
Methodology, instructions & safety procedures to be followed are highlighted as
below.
I. SAFETY
Safety is key for the above mentioned project, therefore measures will be taken
to prevent risks and hazards which might occur during theater of operations.
Common safety hazards and their mitigation.
1. Working at height.
Working at height must be properly planned and supervised, and certain approaches and precautio ns
should be adopted. These are:

 Avoid working at height where possible. For example, if something can be assembled on ground
level, do it there.
 Use equipment with an extra level of safety to reduce the risk of a fatal fall. For example, a
scaffold with a double guard-rail.
 Minimize the consequences of a fall, for example by providing a safety net.
2. Moving objects
Reducing risks should always be a priority. Workers should always:

 Avoid working close to the moving object.


 Be vigilant of their surroundings, especially if the object does not have lights or beepers.
 Wear Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), such as a high visibility jacket

3. Slips, trips, and falls.


Some causes of slips and trips and how to prevent them include:

 Uneven surfaces – The risk of these can be reduced by providing walkways that are clearly
designated as walkways, having good conditions underfoot, and being well lit.
 Obstacles – Instances of slipping and tripping over obstacles can be dramatically reduced by
everyone keeping their work and storage areas tidy and designating specific areas for waste
collection.
 Trailing cables – Cordless tools should be used where possible. If this is not possible, cables
should be run at high levels.
 Wet or slippery surfaces – If a surface is slippery with mud it should be treated with stone, and
if it is slippery with ice it should be treated with grit. Any areas that are slippery should be
signposted, and footwear with a good grip should be worn.

4. Noise.
 Use of noise reduction industrial ear muffs

5. Hand arm vibration syndrome.


 Construction workers should be given appropriate protection when using vibrating tools, and
equipment should be well maintained.

6. Material and manual handling.


 Where duties involve manual handling, adequate training must be provided. If an employee is
required to use lifting equipment, they must be trained in how to use this and a test should be
taken to check their ability to use the equipment safely.

7. Collapsing trenches.
Precautions for collapse need to be taken before work starts. If the project requires a trench, site
managers should:

 Consider the kind of support that is best suited for the trench.
 Ensure the trench is fully secure.
 Regularly inspect the trench both before and during the work shift.

Personal protective equipment to be used.


 Protective clothing
 Protective gloves
 Safety helmet
 Safety goggles
 Hard gloves
 Reflector jacket
 Flagging tape
 Warning tape

QUALITY OF MATERIALS

 All materials shall comply with the specifications regarding quality,


dimensions & strength.
 All materials will undergo quality control check.
 Only materials that are certified with KEBS (Kenya bureau of standards)
shall be used.

II. SAFE WORK PROCEDURE & INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION OF CHAIN


LINK FENCE & GATES.
 Sequence of activities
1. Setting out and installation of posts
 Clean the surface of the area where to start the installation of chain link fence
 Layout markings including coordinates and levels shall be done by the surveyor for the
execution of work
 Prior to start of the activity, the location of intermediate / straining /corner post & temporary
gate post shall be marked all-round the capacitor bank
 Necessary holes shall be drilled in the marked location for fixing the posts with anchor bolts
 Layout the hole location
 Start the generator and prepare the concrete mixture by mixing the cement/aggregate/water in
the correct ratio. Employ good lifting techniques while adding the materials.
 Pour the mixture into a wheelbarrow and move the wheelbarrow to the hole location
 Locate and set Terminal Posts (corner, end, and gate posts are called terminal posts) Distance
between gate posts is determined by adding the actual width of the gate plus an allowance for
hinges and latches. Usually walk gates require 3 3/4" for hinges and latches and doubl e drive
gates require 5 1/2".
 dig the holes
 Terminal posts should be set 2" higher than the height of the fence fabric and line posts 2"
lower than the height of the fence fabric (terminal posts should be 4" higher than the line
posts). Drill the holes using a bobcat mounted auger (supplied by others)/hand post hole auger
 Remove the spoils by hand into a wheelbarrow and remove the spoils to the flatbed trailer.
Ensure that good technique is used for loading the wheelbarrow and emptying the wheelbarrow
onto the trailer
 Set the terminal posts in concrete using a manual mix or pre-mix concrete mix. Pour the mixture
into the hole while being aware of splash back from the mixture
 Use a level to make sure the posts are straight. Posts should be centered in the ho le. Crown
posts footings so the water will drain away from the posts.
 After the concrete around the terminal posts have hardened, stretch a string tight between the
terminal posts. The string should be 4" below the top of the terminal posts. Line posts sho uld
not be spaced more than 10 feet apart
 Dig the post holes and set the line posts. Before concrete begins to set, adjust post height by
moving post up or down. Top of the line posts should be even with the string. Check with level
to make sure posts are straight.
 Check material list and fittings chart above. After all posts have been installed and the concrete
footings have hardened, slip the tension and brace bands onto the terminal posts. The long flat
surface of the tension band should face towards the outside of the fence. Take care not to
spread or distort the fittings. Now apply terminal post caps.
 Attach loop caps to line posts. Insert one length of top rail pipe through the eye -top closest to
one of the terminal post. Slide a rail end onto the end of the top rail and attach it to a terminal
post by using the brace band. Secure the rail end to the brace band with a carriage bolt.
Continue by attaching top rails together. Connect the rail ends together by using top rail sleeve.
Upon reaching the other terminal post, measure carefully and cut the top rail to fit tightly into
the rail end. Secure rail end to the terminal post with brace band and carriage bolt.

2. Chain link installation.


 Unroll the chain link fabric on the ground along the fence line. Slide tension bar through the last
link on the chain link fabric. Stand the fabric up and lay it against the posts. Fasten the tension
bar (that you just inserted) to the terminal post with tension bands (already on the post). Use
the carriage bolts with the head to the outside of the fence. Walk along the fence and take the
slack out. Loosely attach fabric to top rail with a few wire ties.
 To connect two sections or rolls of fence fabric together, as highlighted in pointer No.3 in item
A of (SOW) - take a single strand of wire from one of the sections of fence (Sometimes it is
necessary to remove a second wire on the one end in order for the two sections to mesh
properly.). Place the two section of fence next to each other (end on end). Join the two section s
by winding (corkscrew fashion) the loose strand down through the fence. Join and tighten the
knuckles at bottom and top.
 To remove excess chain link fence fabric - untie both top and bottom ends of fence (knuckles -
pliers shown below). Twist the wire in a corkscrew fashion until the fence comes apart. One
picket shown in red is turned until the fence is separated.
 Fabric should already be fastened to the opposite end of the fence. Insert a tensi on bar (may
need an extra one) approximately 3 feet inside the unattached end of the fabric. Securely fasten
one end of the fence stretcher to the tension bar and the other end to the terminal post. Stretch
the fabric - the correct tension should allow a slight amount of give when squeezed by hand. The
top of the fabric should be located approximately 1/2" above top rail. Adjust fabric to exact
length by adding or removing wire as mentioned in step 6. Insert a tension bar at the end of the
fabric and connect tension bands on terminal post. Remove fence stretcher. Attach wire ties to
top rail 24" apart. Attach wire ties to posts 12" apart. Tighten nuts on all brace and tension
bands.
 POINTER ON INSTALLING FITTINGS

1. Place tension bands on end and corner posts.

2. Quantity of tension bands per hook-up = height of fence minus one; minimum of three. For example,
a 4' high chain link fence requires 3 tension bands per hook-up.

3. A hook-up is each connection of chain link to an end or corner post. End posts have one hook -up;
corner posts have two hook-ups.

4. Place one brace band on first to use if bottom tension wire will be installed. This fitting requires one
bolt and nut. Install nut and bolt loosely.

5. Next, install tension bands. The tension bands are offset. The offset (flat side) faces 'out', the s ame
side as the chain link fabric will be installed. This is normally the outside of the enclosed area. Do not
install nuts and bolts on these.

6. Place one brace band per hook-up over the tension bands. This fitting requires one rail end cup, one
bolt and nut. This band and cup will be used for the top rail. Tighten with a ratchet and socket.

7. The rail end cup is offset also. This offset can be up or down on an end post. Regardless of if you
choose to position the cup up or down, be consistent. On a corner, since two sets of brace bands and rail
end cups must share the same space, the bottom rail end cup is to be offset up and the bottom rail end
cup is to be offset down. This enables the two ups to be level to each other, so your top rail can be
inserted into the cups and be level to each other.

8. Typically all nuts are kept on the inside of the fence; this prevents someone on the outside from
removing the nuts easily.

9. Place caps on posts. The end and corner post caps are simple. There is only one way to install them.
The loop caps, as they are called, are offset, if you look at them carefully. The offset side faces the
outside of the enclosure; the same side as the chain link will be installed.
 POINTER ON STRETCHING CHAIN LINK FABRIC

1. After rolling out the chain link and weaving the rolls together, 'hookup' one end. Space the tension
bands evenly as illustrated above. Make sure the nuts are on the inside of the fence so they cannot be
removed from outside the enclosure.

2. If you have a sharp incline approaching a terminal post, the fabric must be cut on the end. This is
called a 'bias cut'. See details on how to make a bias cut in chain link fabric.

3. Pull the chain link tight by hand to the other end. You may stand the chain link and lean it against the
posts or leave it on the ground and lean it up as you stretch the fabric later. Generally the latter is easier
and better on long stretches.

4. Hook up stretch tools as illustrated on inside of fence (Fig. F51). Slide a tension bar 10-12' away
vertical in chain link fabric; hook stretch bar to it on inside.

5. Make sure the come-a-long hook faces away from the fabric or it may get caught in the diamonds.

6. Tighten the come-a-long slowly. Check that the fabric is not getting caught on posts, tree roots, or
other obstacles.

7. 'Dress' the fabric as you tighten it. 'Dressing' involves straightening the fabric diamonds so they run
true. This is vital for heavier gauge fabrics. Some spots will be higher than others as you sight down the
top. Lift the fabric in the low spots. This must be done before the fabric gets too tight. Once it is tight,
little can be done to straighten the fabric. Some fabric dresses easily, some does not. If the fabric does
not dress up properly, you can always loosen the come-a-long and try again. Check top and bottom
diamonds for any wires that may bind out of proper shape. Lift and shake fabric to assure an even
tension throughout roll(s).

8. The fabric is stretched sufficiently when you can't squeeze the diamonds together with one hand. Do
not over stretch or post damage will occur. The top of the fence should 'snap' back to the posts when
pulled out a little.

9. Hand stretch the small section of chain link left between the come -a-long and terminal post by hand.
Remove a weave to 'cut' the fabric to proper length. Slide the tension bar into the mesh and make your
last hookup. Once all bolts are in place, remove the stretching tools.

3. Installation of gates
 Install female hinges on gates using nuts and bolts. Again, nuts should be installed on the inside
of the enclosure. Space them the maximum distance apart as possible.
 Hold gate in opening and mark the location of male hinges. Point the male hinge on the bottom
up and the one on top down.
 Install bottom and top male hinge with bolts. Tighten bottom hinge snug, but leave top hinge
loose.
 Place gate on bottom hinge and lower top male hinge into female hinge.
 If the space under the gate is acceptable. Tighten top male hinge snug.
 Test swing the gate to see if it will miss the ground. Adjust as needed.
 Tighten all hinge bolts. Do not over tighten.
 Install the latch at a convenient height (nuts inside).
 In the case of a double swing gate, install the gate closest to the ground first, unless the ground
is perfectly level. Hang second gate level to the first. Although you may 'step' the gates for a
tight fit to the ground, it looks best to install them level to one another.
 Install double gate drop rod/latch assembly.
 Install center stop for double swing gate. Close the double gate, making certain the two leaves
are lined up (straight w/ fence line). Mark the ground where the center stop needs to be
installed. You may simply use a cut-off piece of pipe as a center stop by driving it into the
ground. Proceed slowly, checking the gate to make certain you are driving the pipe straight. You
may also use a prefabricated center stop and cement it for a better appearance. If the center
stop is in a concrete drive, simply drill a hole in the concrete larger than the drop rod diameter.
Be sure to drill clear through the concrete drive to allow water to drain. Always make a much
larger hole (or pipe size) than the diameter of the drop rod to allow for gate sag, posts shifting,
ice and other factors.
 Install gate holdbacks if desired. Open gate(s) to the desired 'open' position. Cement or drive a
2" O.D. post a couple inches beyond this point. Install holdback at correct height using U-bolts.
 Install all post caps

 Gate installation summary


After the fence has been completed, install the male hinges to one of the gate posts, hanging the top
hinge with pin pointing down and the bottom hinge with the pin pointing up. This will prevent the gate
from being lifted off. Set gate in place, aligning top of the gate with the top of fence. Adjust and tighten
hinges to allow for full swing. Install gate latch for single gates. Double gates use the same procedure
but install center latching device (fork latch).

4. BARBED WIRE INSTALLATION


NB: before commencement of these works, proper protective equipment should
be used, since barbed wire pose as a serious hazard, and can cause bruises and
cuts.
 Select end and corner locations of the double extension arm.

 Carefully unroll end of 4' to 8' of barbed wire and fasten by wrapping around starting post and
back onto itself at desired height for lowest strand.
 Carefully unroll the barbed wire to end of fence.
 Tension wire with Chain Wire Strainer at end. Cut wire to length and fasten wire at desired
height as done at the beginning
 Cut barbed wire to length and fasten wire as done at the beginning.
 The first wire should be adjusted (to obtain a straight line) along the fence line with light tension
by picking wire up to a height of 4' to 6' then dropping wire. This process should be repeated
until straight line from beginning to end is achieved. This process will allow wire to fall creating a
straight line for the fence to follow.
 Fasten barbed wire to double extension arm with wire clip. leave room for wire to "float"
 Repeat necessary process for additional wires.

5. CONCERTINA WIRE INSTALLATION


NB: extra caution to be taken while performing installation, in order to prevent bruises and cuts.

Concertina wire summary

 Single Coil Razor Wire Concertina


This is basically a hot dipped galvanized steel plate with strip processed razor wire coils which are
extended in spiral type. Clips are generally not needed for this type.

 Large Coils Crossed

Crossed spirals of razor wire are clipped together.

 Y Post Supported Concertina Wire Fences

Concertina wires are mounted on top of a Y fence post.

 Electrified Concertina Wire

These are also called electrified safety fences. These are used along with electric power for enhanced
security. A copper wire is placed inside the core wire of the razor blade.

 Razor Wire Mobile Obstacle Barriers /Concertina Wire used for Military
Concertina wire or crossed razor wire are used for military purposes as it can be mobile and installed
fast and easy.

Figure 1 shows appropriate hand protective equipment used


while installing concertina wire.
 Along the fence line arrange the coils. The deployment for each coil needs to be decided.
 Place the coil on its side and then remove the wire ties and discard them.
 Use around six coils and allow them to spring free from the spool which is closest to the starting
point. Then these are to be attached to the fence keeping centers of approximately 6 inches.
 Once the spool has been anchored, take three coils on the other end of the spool. Grasp all
three firmly and spread these about one foot from the spool.
 Grasping all the three spools start stretching the wire. We maintain a distance from the fence as
well as the concertina wire to avoid any kind of snags.
 During the pulling process, shake it gently so as to free any snags between any of the coils. It
does happen that barb can get entangled. If it happens, then separate by grasping firmly and
spreading them apart. But while we are correcting this, we make sure that there is no one else
moving the materials.
 While pulling the concertina wire along the fence line, there should be another installer to
assure the coil spacing consistency by pulling and lifting the materials.
 We hog ring the ribbon to the chain link fabric, once the concertina wire is in place. It is possible
that we might have to twist the coil so that the ribbon is lined up with the chain link weave.

Figure 2 showing direction of pull.

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