3D PRINTING

HANDBOOK
USER MANUAL FOR 3D PRINTER
ORIGINAL PRUSA MINI+

ORIGINAL INSTRUCTIONS

ENG
Original Instructions: Basic Info
Please always refer to the www.prusa3d.com/drivers/
for an updated version of this 3D printing handbook (PDF download).

Failure to read the handbook may lead to personal injury, inferior results, or damage to the 3D printer. Always ensure that
anyone who operates the 3D printer knows and understands the contents of the Manual/Handbook. We cannot control the
conditions in which you assemble the Original Prusa MINI+. For this, and other reasons, we do not assume responsibility, and
expressly disclaim liability for loss, injuries, damage, or expense arising out of, or in any way connected with, the assembly,
handling, storage, use or disposal of the product. The information in this handbook is provided without any warranty, expressed
or implied, regarding its correctness.

Translated versions of the handbook are available at:

• Czech: www.prusa3d.cz/ovladace/
• French: www.prusa3d.fr/drivers/
• German: www.prusa3d.de/treiber/
• Polish: prusa3d.pl/sterowniki/
• Italian: www.prusa3d.it/driver/
• Spanish: www.prusa3d.es/drivers-y-manuales/

QUICK GUIDE TO THE FIRST PRINT

1. Read chapter 6 Your First Print carefully

2. Place the assembled printer on a flat and stable surface
3. Start the printer, insert the enclosed USB drive and update the firmware
4. Follow the on-screen instructions to calibrate the printer
5. Print a sample object

Important notice, tip, hint or information that helps you print with ease.

Read carefully! This part of the text has the greatest importance - either for user safety or for
proper printer service.

How to contact Prusa Research tech support:

First, check the last chapters of this handbook for troubleshooting guides, or visit help.prusa3d.com
for a complete list of common issues, print quality troubleshooting and other guides. If your problem
is not listed there, or the solution does not work, please send an e-mail to support@prusa3d.com
or use the Live chat at shop.prusa3d.com. Try to explain your problem as thoroughly as possible -
attach pictures and/or videos if possible.

Handbook version 1.05 from November 16th, 2020

About the author
Josef Prusa (born Feb 23rd, 1990) became interested in the 3D printing phenomenon before joining
Prague’s University of Economics in 2009 - at first, it was a hobby, a new technology open to
changes and improvements. The hobby soon became a passion and Josef grew into one of the
leading developers of Adrien Bowyer’s international, open-source, RepRap project. Today, you can
see the Prusa design in different versions all around the world, it is one of the most popular printers
and thanks to it, knowledge about the 3D printing technology significantly increased among the
public.
All 3D printers by Josef Prusa are open-source and based on the RepRap philosophy - you can use
your 3D printer to produce parts for building another 3D printer.
The lineup of Original Prusa devices is constantly expanded with new machines and upgrades. The
main goal is to make technology more accessible and understandable to all users.
Josef Prusa also organizes workshops for the public, participates in professional conferences
dedicated to the popularization of 3D printing. For example, he lectured at the TEDx conference in
Prague and Vienna, at World Maker Faire in New York, Maker Faire in Rome or at the Open Hardware
Summit hosted by MIT. Josef also teaches Arduino at Charles University and was also a lecturer at
the Academy of Arts in Prague.
In his own words, he imagines 3D printers will be available in every home in the not-too-distant
future. “If anything is needed, you can simply print it. In this field, you just push the boundaries every
day… We're glad you're part of it with us!”

Josef Průša

3
1 Introduction 9
2 Glossary 10
3 Package contents - Accessories (bundled / optional) 11
4 Handling / Transporting the printer 11
5 Quick-Start Info 12
5.1 Disconnecting the power supply 13
5.2 How to contact tech support 13
5.3 Unpacking, assembly and first start 13
6 Your first print 14
6.1 Basic controls 14
6.2 Updating the firmware 15
6.3 Preparing flexible steel sheets 15
6.4 Calibration Wizard 16
6.5 Selftest 16
6.6 Loading and unloading the filament 16
6.7 First Layer Calibration 18
6.8 Checklist 19
6.9 Starting the first print 19
6.10 Removing the print 20
6.11 After-print checks and actions 20
7 Advanced features 21
7.1 Menu structure 21
7.2 Mesh Bed Leveling explained 22
7.3 Factory reset 22
7.4 Network connections 22
8 Printing your own models 23
8.1 Obtaining a printable model 24
8.2 Creating your own models 25
8.3 What is a G-code file? 25
8.4 PrusaSlicer 25
8.5 Importing objects into PrusaSlicer 26
8.6 Using supports 27
8.7 Print speed vs Print quality 28
8.8 Infill 29
8.9 Brim 29
8.10 Large object printing 29
8.11 Print multi-colored objects 31
8.12 Slicing, exporting 32
9 Material guide 32
9.1 PLA 32
9.2 PET/PETG 33
9.3 ASA/ABS 34
9.4 Flexible Materials 35
10 Regular Maintenance 35
10.1 Steel sheets 36
10.2 Spring steel sheet with TEXTURED double-sided PEI 37
10.3 Spring steel sheet with SMOOTH double-sided PEI 37
10.4 Increasing the adhesion 38
10.5 Steel sheet profiles 38
10.6 Bearings 38
10.7 Fans 39
10.8 Extruder drive gear 39
 10.9 PTFE tubes 39
10.10 Clogged / jammed extruder 40
10.11 Nozzle cleaning 41
10.11.1 The filament is being extruded just a little 41
10.11.2 The filament is not pushed out of the nozzle 41
10.12 Replacing / changing the nozzle 42
10.13 Flashing unsigned firmware 43
11 Filament sensor (optional accessory) 44
11.1 Running out of filament 45
11.2 False sensor readings and debugging 45
12 FAQ - common issues and how to solve them 45
12.1 Skewed X-axis 45
12.2 Printer can’t read the USB drive 45
12.3 Loose X- and/or Y-axis belts 46
12.4 Filament stuck in the PTFE tube 46
12.5 X-Axis homing fails 46
12.6 Heating errors 46
12.7 Fan errors 46
12.8 Downgrading the firmware 46
13 Advanced hardware troubleshooting 47
14 Print quality troubleshooting 47
 Information about functionality, correct usage and maintenance of this device
can be found in this handbook and online at help.prusa3d.com.

The device must be disconnected from the power supply (power adapter),
before performing any kind of service. Consult the handbook before
performing maintenance on the device.

Extra care must be taken when handling or touching parts marked with this
symbol. Avoid risks specified by other symbols, e.g. dangerous hot surfaces.

The temperature of parts marked with this symbol can exceed the ambient
temperature significantly. Touching such parts may by an unprotected body
part may lead to burns.

Unprotected moving mechanical parts, exercise caution.

Do not touch the print head during printing. There is a risk of injury caused by
mechanical and/or heated parts.

Large electrical currents are switched on and off in the immediate vicinty
of parts marked with symbol. Persons with a pacemaker or other aids for
controlling and monitoring heart function must exercise caution - consult your
doctor about the use of this device.

This device is composed of components, which must be disposed of in

accordance with electrical and electronic equipment waste directive.

6
Product details
Title: Original Prusa MINI+
Manufacturer: Prusa Research a.s., Partyzánská 188/7A, Prague, 170 00, Czech Republic
Contact e-mail: info@prusa3d.com
EEE group: 3 (IT and/or telecommunication equipment), Device use: indoor only
Power supply: AC/DC switching adaptor, input 100-240 VAC, 50 / 60 Hz, 2.0 A / Max output 24
V, 6.67 A, 160 W MAX
Fuse: min. B16A (for EU)
Protection: IP20
Working temperature range: 18 °C - 38 °C, indoor use only
Working humidity: 85 % or less
Compatible filaments: 1.75 mm only
Package weight (gross / net): 7.6 kg / 4.85 kg
The serial number is located on the printer frame and also on the packaging.
This device can be safely used only indoors, where the device (especially its PSU and LAN socket)
is protected against external environmental risks.
Warranty
The pre-assembled Original Prusa MINI+ 3D printer is covered by a 24-month warranty for end
customers and 12 months for businesses. Wear and tear category components and consumables
are excluded from this warranty.
The warranty period begins with the day when the customer receives the goods. Neither the Seller's
liability for defective products nor the quality warranty applies to printers or parts damaged by
handling, which is in conflict with the instructions and recommendations in the official manuals and
guides, or improper handling caused by unofficial modifications, such as modifications to hardware
or software.
Licensing
The Original Prusa MINI+ printer is a part of the RepRap project, the first open-source 3D printer
project free to use under a GNU GPL v3 license (www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl-3.0.en.html). If you
improve or alter any part of, a printer, and you are willing to sell it, then you have to publish the
source code under the same license. All 3D-printed elements of the printer that can be improved
upon can be found at www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts.

7
 Please be very cautious during any interaction with the printer. This printer is an electrical
device with moving and high-temperature parts.
1. The device is for indoor use only. Do not expose the printer to rain or snow. Always keep
the printer in a dry environment at a minimum distance of 30 cm from other objects. Make
sure none of the vents/fan outlets are blocked.
2. Always place the printer on a stable place, where it cannot fall or tip over.
3. The printer supply is household power outlet 230 VAC, 50 Hz or 110 VAC / 60 Hz. Never
connect the printer to a different power supply; it may cause malfunction or damage to the
printer.
4. Place the power cord so you cannot stumble over it, step on it, or otherwise expose it to any
potential damage. Also, make sure that the power cord is not mechanically or otherwise
damaged. If so, stop using the damaged power cord immediately and replace it.
5. When you disconnect the power cord from the socket, pull the plug rather than the cord to
reduce the risk of damage to the plug or to the AC outlet. The plug that goes into the printer
has a safety locking mechanism: first pull the cover of the plug to unlock it, then disconnect
the plug from the printer
6. Never disassemble the printer’s power supply; it does not contain any parts that could be
repaired by an unskilled worker. All repairs must be performed by a qualified technician.
7. Do not reach inside the printer while it is still in operation. An injury may be caused by its
moving parts, heated elements or electrical current.
8. Prevent children from unsupervised access to the printer even when the printer is not
printing.
9. Do not leave the printer unattended while it's still on!
10. The plug serves as a disconnecting element
11. The power outlet must be easily accessible
12. Caution! During operation, the heatbed and parts of print head may get very hot! Do not
touch them until the print is finished and the device cools down!
13. Caution! There is a risk of injury from uncovered moving mechanical parts! Do not touch
them until the print is finished!

8
1 Introduction
Thank you for purchasing the Original Prusa MINI+ 3D printer from Josef Prusa! Your purchase
supports us in the further development of the MINI+ and other devices. Original Prusa MINI+ is
our compact, smart and affordable 3D printer, which was designed as a 3D printing workhorse
and a great starter printer. We hope you will enjoy using it! Please, read the handbook carefully,
since all chapters contain valuable info regarding the operation of the equipment, getting-started
instructions, 3D printing tips, and everything about regular maintenance.
Please check the prusa3d.com/drivers page for the updated version of this 3D printing
handbook (PDF download).
In case of any printer-related problem, do not hesitate to contact us at info@prusa3d.com. We
are glad to receive your valuable comments and tips. You can also visit our knowledge base at
help.prusa3d.com and forums at forum.prusaprinters.org.

9
2 Glossary

1. Spring steel sheet - comes in two variants, smooth and textured. This is where the printed
object appears. Please read the maintenance instructions carefully to ensure optimal conditions
for 3D printing.
2. Heatbed - located directly under the spring steel sheet. Heatbed ensures good adhesion of the
printed object. Warning: do not touch the heatbed when it’s hot!
3. Y-Axis - the general name for the entire heatbed assembly (smooth rods, belt, heatbed…).
4. Knob - main control of the Original Prusa MINI+ 3D printer: rotate left/right to scroll through
options, press the knob to confirm your selection. There’s a reset switch directly next to the
knob. Press it to perform a hard reset.
5. LCD screen - the display is used for the configuration of the 3D printer. Use the knob to scroll
through the menus and confirm your selection with the press of the knob.
6. Power switch - when the printer is not in use, turn it off using the power switch.
7. USB port and microUSB port - USB port is compatible with USB 2.0/3.0 flash drives
(FAT32 filesystem). Use this port to insert a USB drive with print files (G-Codes) or firmware
files for updating the firmware. The microUSB port can be used to run third-party solutions,
such as Octoprint (see https://octoprint.org for more details).
8. Main PTFE tube - leads the filament strand from the extruder into the print head / nozzle.
Inspect it from time to time to make sure there is no debris inside that would prevent the
filament strand from reaching the nozzle.
9. Tube fitting - on both ends of the main PTFE tube. In case filament gets stuck in the PTFE
tube, use a spanner (included with the printer) to remove the fittings and the PTFE tube to get
access to the filament strand.
10. Print fan - cools the printed object, improves print quality. Comes with RPM monitoring.

10
11. Print head - Lightweight print head consisting of the hotend (printing nozzle), SuperPINDA
probe and two fans. The heaviest parts of the extruder were moved onto the Z-axis tower to
improve print quality.
12. Nozzle - 0.4mm nozzle, can be replaced with e.g. 0.25mm or 0.6mm E3D-compatible nozzles
to achieve various effects.
13. Z-Axis - the entire vertical axis assembly (smooth rods, Z-axis motor…).
14. Extruder / Extruder motor - as opposed to 3D printers like MK2 or MK3S, the extruder motor
is not moving along the X-axis. Instead, it’s fixed on the side and pushes filament through the
PTFE tube towards the print head.
15. X-Axis - allows the movement of the belt-driven print head from left to right.
16. Spool holder - should be placed near the printer, so the filament strand can enter the PTFE
tube from below. Filament must not bend at an acute angle.

3 Package contents - Accessories (bundled / optional)

Your Original Prusa MINI+ comes bundled with:
• USB drive with firmware files • Surface cleaning wipes (infused with
• Allen key isopropyl alcohol)
• Spanner • Acupuncture needle

These are the basic tools required for correct assembly and basic maintenance. However, we
recommend getting some extra items to improve your 3D printing experience.
• Side cutting pliers - for filament cutting
• Isopropyl alcohol, Windex, paper wipes - for print sheet maintenance
• Metal spatula - for easier removal of prints stuck to the smooth steel sheet

4 Handling / Transporting the printer

When transporting the Original Prusa MINI+, use the recommended way of holding the device.
You can either grab it by the Z-axis motor at the top, or by the Z-Axis assembly. See photos below
for reference. Never hold it by the cables or PTFE tubes!

11
5 Quick-Start Info
Original Prusa MINI+ 3D Printer
Place in a safe, dry and Do not place near running
horizontally stable location (e.g. water or outside
workbench) Do not pull the power plug
Place the power brick where from the printer directly. It has
nobody can trip over the power a locking mechanism - pull the
cord cover of the plug back to unlock
Leave at least 25 cm (1 ft.) it, then disconnect the plug
around the printer Do not touch / move the
Consider checking our web for printer during operation
the latest firmware and updating
the printer

Smooth and Textured steel sheets

Read maintenance Do not wash with running
instructions in chapter 10 Regular water
maintenance Do not peel off the PEI sticker
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean Do not use acetone to clean the
(degrease) the sheet textured sheet!
Calibrate Live Z when you
switch sheets
Wipe the sheet with
IPA-infused towel before the first
print

Spool holder and filament spools

Place in a location where Do not print with tangled
the spool can unwind without filament
resistance Do not print with incorrect
Use correct temperatures for temperature settings
the selected material Some materials (ABS/ASA)
Store filaments in a dry can produce odors during
location printing - keep the room
The filament should enter the ventilated
extruder from below
Filament end should have a
sharp tip

12
5.1 Disconnecting the power supply
The power supply plug that goes in your printer has a locking mechanism - do not pull it with
force! Do not pull the cable!
First, unlock the mechanism by pulling the cover of the plug away from the printer. Once the
mechanism is unlocked, you can pull the plug out of the printer.

5.2 How to contact tech support

If you encounter an issue with your MINI+ 3D printer, please check the last pages of this
handbook for general troubleshooting guides or visit our knowledge base at help.prusa3d.com.
However, in case the suggested solutions don’t work, please contact our tech support via e-mail
at support@prusa3d.com or via the Live chat at shop.prusa3d.com - the chat is in the lower right
corner.

5.3 Unpacking, assembly and first start

The Original Prusa MINI+ 3D printer comes separated into three parts. Please flip this handbook
to get to the Assembly instructions and pre-flight check. Then return here to continue with the
setup process.

If you’re viewing this handbook online, please head to help.prusa3d.com and open the online
version of the assembly manual.

Before you start using the device for the first time, consider checking
www.prusa3d.com/drivers for the latest firmware version.

13
6 Your first print
Preparing the printer for the first print takes about 30-50 minutes including assembly. Please pay
attention to the following steps to ensure the machine will operate as intended.
In this chapter, you will learn how to:
1. Control the printer
2. Update the firmware
3. Prepare the print surface for the first print
4. Perform the initial calibration
5. Load filament
6. Start the first print

6.1 Basic controls

You can configure and control the entire device with a single control element: a rotational knob (1),
which can be pressed to confirm the selection.

The reset button (2) is placed to the left from the control knob. Pressing the reset button equates
to quickly toggling the power switch. It is useful when the printer exhibits unexpected behavior or
you see a failed print that requires to be stopped immediately.

14
6.2 Updating the firmware
The printer is shipped with latest firmware available at the time of manufacturing. However,
we recommend to check www.prusa3d.com/drivers for the latest firmware version to
ensure optimal printing experience.

To flash firmware downloaded from our website, please follow these steps:
1. Download the correct firmware file from www.prusa3d.com/drivers (ZIP archive) and
unpack it
2. Place the .BBF file on a FAT32-formatted USB drive - you can use the one bundled with your
MINI+
3. Insert the USB drive into the printer’s USB port
4. Restart the device using the restart button next to the Knob
5. The update process should start automatically
6. Wait until the process is complete

To force the firmware flashing procedure (e.g. when you need to downgrade the firmware), insert
a USB drive containing the desired .BBF file, restart the printer and press and hold the knob
during the start-up.

6.3 Preparing flexible steel sheets

Please follow the instructions for the sheet of your choice (see below) and prepare it for the first print.
The heatbed has embedded high curie temperature magnets inside, which hold removable spring
steel sheets in place. There are two pins at the end of the heatbed that will align perfectly with
cut out edges of the spring steel sheets. These pins aren’t meant to fit into the two holes on the
other side of sheet! Make sure the bed is clean and there isn’t any debris on it before you put on the
steel sheet. Never print directly on the heatbed.
Unpack the IPA-infused cleaning wipe and clean the steel sheet before you start.

15
 Heatbed and powder-coated steel sheet surface

To achieve the best adhesion of the printed object, it is important to keep the surface clean. Please
see the information in the chapter 10 Regular Maintenance for more information about print surface
preparation, recommended cleaning products and warranty info.

6.4 Calibration Wizard

Once the printer starts for the first time, the Wizard will show up. It will guide you through all the
tests and calibrations you need to perform in order to start printing.
The Wizard can be also started manually from LCD menu - Calibration - Wizard. Do not forget to
read chapter 10 Flexible steel sheets before running the Wizard.
The Calibration Wizard consists of Selftest, Mesh Bed Leveling and First Layer Calibration.

6.5 Selftest
The Selftest is a diagnostic tool and consists of a series of tests. They are designed to reveal the
most common issues, such as incorrect wiring. The progress and results of each step are displayed
on the LCD. In case any issues are found, the selftest is interrupted and the cause of the error is
shown to guide users in troubleshooting.
The selftest consists of:
• Extruder and print fan test
• Using the RPM monitoring
• X,Y, and Z-axis test
• Checks the length and free movement of each axis
• This also verifies proper stepper motor wiring
• Heatbed and hotend proper wiring
• This also verifies correct thermistor wiring

6.6 Loading and unloading the filament

Once the Selftest is finished, you can load a strand of filament. We strongly suggest using PLA for
the initial calibration and first print, because it's easier to use and does not require any extra
steps (such as applying glue onto the steel sheet). If you don't have a spool of PLA, read chapters

16
9 Material guide and 10 Regular maintenance carefully to learn how to prepare the steel sheet
for specific materials. Every time you load a new filament, make sure the tip of the strand is sharp
and there are no bumps or other unwanted shapes that would prevent the filament from entering
the PTFE tube. Filament spools should be kept around the same level as the printer, so the filament
strand can enter the PTFE tube without excessive bending.

Loading filament
1. Cut the end of the filament strand to create a sharp tip. Insert the filament into the extruder
PTFE tube (right side of the device), or into the short PTFE tube of the filament sensor (optional
accessory).
2. Choose LCD Menu - Filament - Load filament and press the button to confirm.
3. The preheat menu will be automatically displayed. Select the type of filament you wish to load
and confirm the selection by pressing the control knob.
4. Wait for the nozzle to reach the target preheat temperature.
5. Press the control knob to start loading and push the filament into the extruder until the
extruder drive gears grab the filament.
6. The filament is then loaded into the print head by the extruder gears automatically. The printer
will ask you if the color of the extruded plastic is correct. You have three options: Yes/No/Retry.
In case the plastic is contaminated with previous filament's color, choose “No” and the printer
will push some more material out of the nozzle. Choosing Retry will repeat the loading
process. This is useful e.g. in case when the filament strand stopped mid-way in the main
PTFE tube.

The printer keeps track of the currently loaded filament, even when powered off. You can check
the type of the currently loaded filament in the bottom right corner of the LCD Menu.

For the next step, keep the filament loaded. If, for some reason, you need to change the filament
before First Layer Calibration (or at any other time), follow these instructions:
Unloading filament
1. Choose LCD Menu - Filament - Unload filament.
2. The printer will automatically preheat to the correct temperature, the beeper will notify you
when the preheating finishes.
3. Press the control knob to start unloading.
4. Once the extruder gears stop unloading the filament, pull the filament out from the PTFE tube
manually.

17
6.7 First Layer Calibration
This process will calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the probe. You can launch
the calibration at any time from LCD Menu - Calibration - First layer cal.

Make sure the steel sheet is clean and there’s no grease on it, even fingerprints can cause an
issue. Use the IPA-infused cleaning wipe that came with your printer to clean it before you
start.

Once you start the First Layer Calibration, the printer will ask you whether filament is loaded. Once
it is, the printer will probe the bed using the Mesh Bed Leveling routine (see chapter 7.2 Mesh
Bed Leveling for more information) and start printing a zig-zag pattern on the print surface. The
nozzle will be at the height defined by the SuperPINDA probe setting. It must not by any means
touch the printing surface.

Observe the line which is being extruded on the print surface. A new menu will automatically show
up - use it to tune the nozzle height in real time by turning the knob. The aim is to adjust the
nozzle height until the extruded plastic sticks nicely to the bed and you can see that it is being
slightly squished.
Make sure the testing pattern looks like the one on the left or middle picture. The picture on the
right displays both serious issues: nozzle too high (bent lines, shifted corners) and nozzle too low
(plastic not extruded)

18
What to check:
• The top of the extruded plastic is slightly squished
• The corners of the zig-zag line are sharp and do not lift from the sheet
• The lines are straight and stay on the sheet firmly
• The ending box has an even surface, there are no waves or gaps
Below, you can see a close up of a print displaying quality issues caused by an incorrect nozzle
height. The picture in the middle is the optimal quality.

First layer height comparison - nozzle too high (left), optimal height (middle), nozzle too low (right)

6.8 Checklist
If you followed the steps described in the previous chapter, you are now ready to start your first print.
Before you start, let’s go through the final checklist:
1. MINI+ is fully assembled and placed in a suitable location
2. The firmware is updated to the latest version
3. All of the calibration procedures were successful
4. A clean print sheet cleaned with IPA-infused cleaning wipe is on the heatbed
5. Filament is loaded

6.9 Starting the first print

Once everything is ready, you can navigate to the PRINT menu (available only when a USB drive
is inserted). Use the knob to select a sample object from the list and observe the printer. We
recommend choosing the PRUSA logo, because it gives you a great overview of how well you
tweaked the first layer during First Layer Calibration.

You should aim for this level of quality with your first layer

19
The nozzle will preheat to 170 °C independently on the selected filament - this is to prevent
oozing of the filament during the initial phase, which is Mesh Bed Leveling. Once MBL is done, the
printer will preheat the nozzle to the correct printing temperature and start with the initial purging
line at the edge of the print bed. Then, it will start printing the skirt around the object and the object
itself.

Pay close attention to the quality of the first layer. Extruded plastic should stick to the sheet
nicely. If, for some reason, the nozzle is too high, either try to lower it with the Live Adjust
Z function (available through the Tune menu during an active print job), or stop the print
completely, clean the sheet and re-run First Layer Calibration from the Calibration menu.

6.10 Removing the print

Once the print finishes, wait for the heatbed to cool down. Depending on the material and steel
sheet used, your print might automatically detach as the sheet cools down. If that’s not the case, lift
the steel sheet and bend it both inwards and outwards carefully, rotate it 90 degrees and repeat
the bending. Don’t forget to remove all leftover pieces of filament, such as the intro purge line, the
skirt and the support base. If there is any leftover plastic on the sheet, do not use your fingernails to
remove it - this could potentially lead to an injury. Instead, use a metal spatula on the smooth sheet
or a plastic spatula on the textured sheet.
Try to avoid touching the steel sheet surface with your fingers - fingerprints can decrease the
adhesion of the next print.

6.11 After-print checks and actions

Once the sample print is removed from the steel sheet, inspect it closely and check for possible
issues with quality. Please note that objects printed using FDM/FFF methods are never perfectly
smooth - layers are usually visible. There are ways to make 3D printed objects smoother, though.
Check our blog at blog.prusaprinters.org to learn more about post-processing.

In case your print has actual quality issues (missing parts, shifted layers, under-extruded
sections), please check our Print Quality Troubleshooting at the end of this handbook.

Make sure the steel sheet is clean and put it back onto the heatbed. You can leave the filament
loaded in the nozzle. If you don’t plan to print another object, wait until the nozzle cools down to 50
°C and turn the printer off using the switch on the side.

20
7 Advanced features
7.1 Menu structure
• Print
• Preheat
• PLA
• PETG
• ASA
• ABS
• PC
• FLEX
• HIPS
• PP
• Cooldown
• Filament
• Load filament
• PLA
• PETG
• ASA
• ABS
• PC
• FLEX
• HIPS
• PP
• Cooldown
• Unload filament
• Change filament
• Purge filament
• Calibration
• Wizard
• Live Adjust Z
• Auto home
• Mesh bed leveling
• Selftest
• First Layer Calibration
• Test Fans
• Test XYZ-Axis
• Settings
• Temperature
• Nozzle
• Heatbed
• Print fan
• Cooldown
• [Sheet profile] - when two or more sheet profiles are configured
21
 • Move Axis
• Move X
• Move Y
• Move Z
• Move E
• Disable Steppers
• Factory Reset
• HW Setup
• Sheet profiles
• Profile name
• Select
• First Layer Calibration
• Reset
• FW Update
• Fil. sens. on/off
• Menu Timeout On / Off
• LAN Settings
• TZ (UTC + / -)
• Save Crash Dump
• Sound Mode
• Sound Volume
• Languages
• Info
• System info
• Version info

7.2 Mesh Bed Leveling explained

Mesh bed leveling can be found in LCD Menu - Calibration. This procedure is performed before every
print. It is also the same procedure that also happens at the start of First Layer Calibration (see next
chapter)
The SuperPINDA probe goes through a 4x4 grid pattern spread across the sheet (whether it is
a powder-coated or smooth PEI does not matter) and measures the distance to the sheet. These
points are interpolated and used to create a virtual mesh of the bed. If the bed is slightly warped,
the probe will still precisely follow the surface during printing according to its measured mesh,
improving the quality of the first layer.

7.3 Factory reset

A factory reset can be performed through LCD Menu - Settings - Factory Reset. This will reset all
data to default values.

7.4 Network connections

Original Prusa MINI+ has an ethernet (RJ45) port onboard. You can use this port to connect your
printer to your network.
Please note that network features may not be fully available in the default firmware. Keep checking
our web www.prusa3d.com or social media profiles where we publish information about updated
firmware versions.
22
You can connect your Original Prusa MINI+ to the local area network (LAN) and access basic
information about the printer through web-based interface called PrusaConnect. The printer
has DHCP turned on by default. Go to LCD Menu - Settings - LAN Settings and check whether the
IP address has been assigned correctly. Then, on your PC or cell phone, open a web browser of your
choice and enter the IP address into the address field. This will allow you to see basic information
about the current print job. PrusaConnect in the current version works only on local area network
and its features will be expanded in further releases.

Wi-Fi module (an optional accessory) is not supported in default firmware. Information about Wi-Fi
module availability will be published at www.prusa3d.com or blog.prusaprinters.org.

Original Prusa MINI+ is also compatible with a third-party tool for network printing called
OctoPrint. Please refer to the official OctoPrint website (www.octoprint.org) for more
information on setup and configuration.

8 Printing your own models

Once the printer is fully calibrated and the sample models are looking good, you will probably want
to print your own model. You have a number of options - read the following chapters to learn more.

23
8.1 Obtaining a printable model
The easiest way to get started with 3D printing is to find models on the internet - they are usually
in .3mf, .stl or .obj formats. Fortunately, 3D printing has many fans, so there are sites from which
you can download a large variety of ready-made 3D models for free. These range from a simple
playing dice to a detailed figure from a favorite movie, game or TV series. You can also download
mechanical parts, RC model accessories, household items and much more. You can visit our own
community website PrusaPrinters.org - it’s our ever-expanding community hub for all Prusa 3D
printer owners! It has a ton of cool features and plenty of amazing models for you to print.

PrusaPrinters.org

24
3D models are very often free to download under the Creative Commons - Attribution -
Non-Commercial (Models not to be used commercially, you must always include the name of the
author) or for a small fee. We have selected the most interesting sites:
• www.prusaprinters.org
• www.thingiverse.com
• www.myminifactory.com
• www.pinshape.com
• www.youmagine.com
• www.shapeways.com
• www.gambody.com
However, models in .stl, .obj or similar formats cannot be 3D printed directly. First, they need to be
“sliced” (converted) into a G-code file, which is then placed onto a USB drive. Connect the USB
drive with a sliced project into the printer and select the model to print from the Print menu. Please
see the chapters 8.3 What is a G-code file? and 8.4 PrusaSlicer for more information.

8.2 Creating your own models

To create a 3D model, you need a dedicated program - a 3D editor. There are a number of various
3D programs and your choice will usually depend on what type of model you wish to create.
The easiest place to start is Tinkercad (www.tinkercad.com) - it’s an online editor that runs in your
browser’s window, so no installation is required. It’s free, easy to navigate, and you will find plenty of
tutorials online. TinkerCad is mostly focused on creating less-detailed and larger (e.g. mechanical)
parts, ideal for FFF/FDM printing - your MINI+ can take care of them easily. Another popular tool
is Autodesk Fusion 360 (www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360) for PC, Mac, and iPad. The
website provides a quick guide along with detailed video tutorials so it is an ideal choice both for
beginning enthusiasts and professionals.

8.3 What is a G-code file?

When you download 3D models from the internet or create your own models, you will need to convert
the 3D model (.stl, .obj, .3mf and similar formats) into a set of instructions for the printer called
G-code. G-code is a file format readable by 3D printers. The file contains information such as nozzle
movement, the amount of filament to extrude, temperature settings or fan speeds.
There are dozens of slicers available, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. The three
most commonly used slicers among the Prusa printer owners are:
• PrusaSlicer
• Cura
• Simplify3D

8.4 PrusaSlicer
As the name suggests, PrusaSlicer is our own in house developed slicer based on the open-source
project Slic3r. It has many useful features such as:
• Ready to print, auto-updating profiles for over 3 dozen filaments
• Variable layer height
• Custom supports and modifier meshes
• Differential print settings
You can always download the latest stable version from www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/-
. Development alpha/beta versions are available at github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer.

25
 PrusaSlicer interface

1. The Add button loads models into PrusaSlicer

2. Delete and Delete All buttons remove the model(s) from PrusaSlicer
3. Opens the detailed settings of print, filament, and printer
4. Move, scale, rotate, Place on Face and cut tools
5. Slice and generate .gcode button
6. Quality / Speed setting of a print
7. Material selection
8. Printer selection
9. Right-click on model opens a context menu
10. Switch between 3D editor and layers preview
11. Model preview
12. Switch between Simple / Advanced / Expert mode

8.5 Importing objects into PrusaSlicer

Once you start PrusaSlicer, select the Original Prusa MINI+ in the Printer menu on the right side
of the window. If it’s not listed, you can add it either by selecting Add a new printer option in the
same menu or by going to Configuration -> Configuration Wizard. Then, select the layer height, infill
and the material you want to use. Please note that built-in filament profiles have pre-defined and
tested settings. If you select a wrong profile, it may affect your print due to incompatible settings.
PrusaSlicer allows you to import STL, OBJ, AMF, and 3MF object files - these are the most
common types of 3D files you can find on the internet. You can either drag-and-drop them in the
Plater window, or you can use the Add… button in the top toolbar.
Next, use the tools in the left toolbar to Move, Scale and Rotate the model. If the object is blue, it
means it’s too big for the printing platform. See the next chapter for more details. Every object is
different, so there’s no default orientation that would work for every object. The rule of thumb here
26
is to select the largest flat surface of the object as the base - the bigger the base, the better the
adhesion. Select a perfectly flat side of the model for the best result.

8.6 Using supports

Support material is a 3D-printed supporting structure (similar to a scaffolding) used to print
complex objects correctly - you can remove the support material after the print job is finished.
You can find many models that can be printed without supports - just place them on the print bed
the right way and you can start printing. However, not all objects can be printed without supports.
If you print an object with a gradient lower than 45° (a steep side), the overhangs may not be printed
correctly, which can lead to a failed print. You can even find objects that would require the printer
to start printing mid-air - which is impossible. This is where supports need to be used. PrusaSlicer
has this function built-in.

Automatically generated supports in PrusaSlicer

You can select from three options:

• Support on build plate only - generate supports only around the object
• For support enforcers only - generate supports only where enforcers are placed
• Everywhere - generate supports everywhere
The default values work in a majority of scenarios. However, if you need to tweak where the
supports should be generated, follow these steps: Go to the Print Settings tab and click the Support
Material option in the left column.
• Check the Generate support material box.
• Overhang threshold lets you set the minimal angle for printing the support material. Setting this
item to zero lets the printer detect problematic parts automatically and print support where it
is needed.
• Enforce support option is used mostly with small models or models with a small base to prevent
the object from breaking or tearing out from the bed.

27
 Areas above supports usually have a less-than-ideal surface quality. Before you decide to use
supports, try to move/rotate the object to find an orientation that will require less or even no
supports.

8.7 Print speed vs Print quality

Printing a small object takes a few minutes, but printing larger models are more time consuming -
there are prints that will take dozens of hours to finish. There are various elements affecting the
print time. The first way to affect the printing speed is to change layer height in PrusaSlicer - the
upper right window shows the Print settings option. The default setting is 0.15 mm QUALITY, but
you can speed up the printer by choosing the 0.20 mm (SPEED) option - or even 0.25 mm DRAFT
quality. Raising the layer height will result in less detailed models with more prominent layers. If you
prefer quality over speed, choose a 0.10 mm (DETAIL) option. Printing time will increase noticeably,
however, the models will look better. Increasing the printing speed may result in a less-detailed
model.
Our most used profiles 0.15 mm and 0.20 mm come in two different versions.
• Quality - slower perimeters and infill, gives you better surface quality
• Speed - faster perimeters and infill without much sacrifice of surface quality

28
 Print quality vs print time

The speed can also be changed while printing. Go to LCD Menu - Tune - Speed. By turning the control
knob clockwise you can increase the print speed up to 150 %. Turning the knob counterclockwise
decreases the print speed - the minimum speed is 50%. Watch the results of increased or decreased
speed on the printed model and adjust the speed accordingly. Keep in mind that acceleration is
unaffected by this value, so the change in speed is not directly proportional to the change in print
time.

8.8 Infill
Infill is another parameter that affects the printed object - mainly the speed of printing, structural
strength and even the look of the printed object.
Objects printed with the FFF/FDM method are not solid. Instead, you can find a certain 3D pattern
inside these objects. The patterns can range from a simple grid or honeycomb to more complex
shapes. The purpose of the infill remains the same: give the object a certain level of structural
strength. Many models can be printed with 10-15% infill, but if you require the model to be stronger
(e.g. a structural part), select a denser infill.

8.9 Brim
A brim is used to increase adhesion to the print bed and decrease the possibility of warping. This
is done by printing extra outlines of the first layer and it’s especially useful when the footprint of the
first layer is very small. You can turn it on in PrusaSlicer by ticking a checkbox in the right panel.
When the print is finished, it’s usually very easy to remove brim with hand. Alternatively, you can use
a deburring tool or a scalpel to remove the brim.

8.10 Large object printing

Original Prusa MINI+ has a smaller bed compared to the Original Prusa i3 MK3S, however, with
some clever tricks, you can print massive objects with the MINI+ as well. Do not let the smaller
print bed stop you - check our blog at prusaprinters.org to learn how to assemble large models
from several smaller parts.

29
A special case is when you want to print objects larger than the heatbed. The first option is to resize
the object to a printable size. Select the Scale tool from the left menu (or press the S key). Then use
the 3D gizmo to change the scale of the object. If you want to scale the model uniformly, drag the
scale gizmo by one of its corners. You can also change the size of a model along one of the axes by
dragging the corresponding gizmo handles.
Alternatively, you can use the object manipulation window in the bottom right corner to type in an
exact scale value.

Changing the scale of a printed object

If you need to print an object that does not fit the printer at its original scale, you have to cut the
object into smaller pieces. Select the Cut tool from the left menu (or press the C key). Position the
cut plane to the desired position or enter a precise height into the Cut dialog window. You can decide
whether you want to keep the upper, lower or both object parts.

Cutting the object with the Cut option

30
8.11 Print multi-colored objects
There is a simple way to create layer-based multi-colored 3D prints directly in PrusaSlicer - see the
instructions below.

Multicolored object printed using color change feature in PrusaSlicer

Color change in PrusaSlicer

1. Switch to the layer preview using the button in the lower-left corner
2. Using the slider on the right side, select a layer where the color change should occur
3. Click on the orange plus icon
4. A preview is instantly displayed. You can remove the color change by clicking on the grey cross
button that is now displayed instead of the orange plus button
5. Export the G-code and you’re ready to print!

31
8.12 Slicing, exporting
One of the most important parts of the slicing process is the inspection of the sliced object in
the Preview window. Use the slider on the right side of the window to go through all the layers of
the sliced object. This will help you to uncover possible problematic spots - e.g. when the bottom
of the object doesn’t sit directly on the bed or when there are supports missing and some parts of
the object start mid-air.
Before you export the model as a G-code and place it onto a USB drive, always make sure to inspect
the object in the preview mode. It’s the best way to prevent possible printing issues.

Inspecting an object before export

9 Material guide
See the full material guide online! Please note that due to the limited space in this handbook, we
can offer only a short overview of the most popular filaments. Visit help.prusa3d.com/materials
for a complete detailed overview of a vast majority of available filaments.

The Original Prusa MINI+ can print with many popular materials. Materials vary in both mechanical
and optical properties as well as in the ease of use. If you’re new to 3D printing, your first filament
should definitely be PLA. Only when you are limited by some of PLA’s disadvantages, it’s time to try
other filaments like PETG or ASA.

9.1 PLA
PLA is the most commonly used material for 3D printing. It is biodegradable, easy to print with,
and PLA prints are very hard. It’s the perfect choice for printing large objects due to low thermal
expansion (prints do not warp on the heatbed) and for printing small detailed models. It is the only
material that is well suited for printing 50-micron layers (Ultradetail resolution) and it can be also
used to produce great-looking miniatures.

32
Advantages Disadvantages
• Easy to print, suitable for beginners • Brittle and inflexible
• Detailed prints of small models • Low-temperature resistance (54 °C)
• Trouble-free printing of large objects • Difficult to post-process
• Almost odorless • Not suitable for outdoor use (low UV and
• Affordable temperature resistance)
• Wide color selection
Typical use

• prototypes
• toys
• figures
• jewelry (tiny and detailed models)
• architecture models
Tips and tricks
Best printed on a smooth PEI sheet. When post-processing PLA, use wet sanding to achieve a
perfectly smooth surface. Without water, you'll quickly start heating the plastic by friction - the object
can melt locally. PLA is only soluble in chemicals like chloroform or hot benzene. The preferred
option for connecting multiple parts is superglue or acetone.
Nozzle temperature: 215 °C
Bed temperature: 50 - 60 °C
Heatbed: Make sure the surface is clean, as described in 10.1 Flexible steel sheet surface preparation
chapter

9.2 PET/PETG
PETG is another commonly used material for 3D printing. It is a great choice for printing
mechanical components. Compared to PLA, it has higher temperature resistance, is more
ductile and therefore less brittle. Due to its low thermal expansion it holds well on the heatbed
and does not warp. Printing with it is almost as easy as with PLA. But unlike PLA, it can offer better
mechanical properties. Parts for our printers are printed from PETG!

Advantages Disadvantages
• High-temperature resistance • Not suitable for printing small/detailed
• Easy to print models
• Low warping • Possible stringing
• Tough and durable • Poor bridging and overhangs
• Easy post-processing (sanding) • Strong adhesion to the printbed
• Almost odorless • Cannot be smoothed with acetone, soluble
only in dangerous chemicals
• Glossy surface
• Good layer adhesion • Supports can be difficult to remove

• Water and humidity resistant

Typical use

• mechanical components

33
 • holders and cases
• watertight prints (pots)
Tips and tricks
Unlike PLA, PETG requires a heated bed (85°C). Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually
worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower
nozzle temperature, but we suggest using the PrusaSlicer profiles. It’s important to cool the PETG
print - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the
model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves
merging between layers, which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend
printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running
at half its power.
Nozzle temperature: 240 °C
Bed temperature: 80 - 100 °C
Heatbed: Various manufacturers suggest using various separation (or adhesive) layers for
printing PETG, such as Kapton tape, glue stick, etc. Our print sheets work fine without these
separation layers but it’s important to know a few basic rules. First, keep the print surface clean.
When printing on a smooth sheet, use a window cleaner instead of isopropyl alcohol. Textured
powder-coated sheets can be cleaned with IPA. Once you finish printing, let the print cool before
you try to remove it from the sheet.

9.3 ASA/ABS
ASA and ABS are very similar materials. ASA is many ways even better than ABS and can be
considered a successor to ABS. ASA is UV stable compared to ABS (less yellowing) and shrinks
somewhat less when printed. The only advantage of ABS is the easier surface treatment with
acetone. Going forward, we will only talk about ASA, but the same goes for ABS.
ASA is a strong and versatile material. A higher melting point than PLA gives ASA excellent heat
resistance, your prints will not show signs of deformation up to around 100 °C. Unfortunately, ASA
has a very high thermal expansion compared to PLA, which complicates printing, especially for larger
models. Even with a heated bed set to 100 °C, the print can begin to warp and peel off the bed. The
material also produces an unpleasant odor during printing.

Advantages Disadvantages
• High impact and wear resistance • Difficult to print
• Very good temperature resistance • Tendency to warp (large models should be
• Suitable for outdoor use - UV stable printed in an enclosure)
• Soluble in acetone - easy to glue together • Unpleasant odor during printing (contains
styrene)
• Can be smoothed with acetone vapors
• Detailed prints with no stringing
• Easy postprocessing (e.g. sanding, cutting
etc.)
Typical use

• covers and protective cases

• prototypes
• replacement parts
• toys and figures
Tips and tricks

34
Printing with ASA/ABS is much easier when done inside an enclosure. The heated bed will quickly
heat the enclosure and reduce the thermal shock on the extruded filament. As a result, both warping
and layer separation is decreased significantly. Acetone makes it easy to glue multiple prints
together. All you have to do is rub the contact surfaces lightly with acetone and press the parts
together. In addition, prints can be smoothed with acetone vapor to give a perfectly glossy finish. Be
careful when handling acetone!
Nozzle temperature: 245 - 265 °C
Bed temperature: 90 - 100 °C. (a larger object requires a higher temperature)
Heatbed: It is recommended to use a smooth PEI sheet for printing with ASA. The powder-coated
sheet might stick too well to your model and might get damaged when you remove the print. Smooth
PEI sheet preparation is really easy: Simply clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). After
printing, wait for the model to cool down for much easier removal. Using an enclosure is strongly
recommended.

9.4 Flexible Materials

Flexible filaments are very strong and elastic materials. In many cases, classic hard plastics may not
be suitable for printing a specific model. Whether you are printing a phone cover, an action camera
case, or an RC car wheel, it is better to use a flexible material. However, these materials are relatively
uncommon, expensive, and suitable mostly for advanced users due to high print difficulty.
Before you print from Flex, clean the nozzle from any previous material. Start by preheating to
the highest temperature you’ve recently printed at. Then load PLA into the extruder to push out
any previous material. When inserting Flex, loosen the pressure on the idler as much as possible.
Consider using the "Cold Pull" method to clean the nozzle - see help.prusa3d.com for more
details. Print slowly. The slower, the better. A typical speed for flexible filaments is usually 20
mm/s, the maximal recommended speed is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm/s. With higher
speeds, you risk clogging the nozzle or tangling filament into the gears. For Original Prusa printers,
we recommend using the “Semiflex or Flexfill 98A” or “Filatech FilaFlex40” profiles that have
proper speed settings.

Advantages Disadvantages
• Flexibility and elasticity • It requires extra steps to load the filament
• Minimal warping • More demanding to prepare and print, bad
• Good layer adhesion bridging and overhangs
• Abrasion resistance • Must be printed slowly
• Higher price
• Hygroscopic - must be stored in a dry
environment
Nozzle temperature: 230 - 260 °C
Bed temperature: 45 - 65 °C (a larger object requires a higher temperature)
Heatbed: If you print on a smooth sheet, apply a separation layer on it (glue stick or Kapton tape
should work). The powder-coated sheets do not need any separation layer - the print will stick just
fine and can be easily removed without damaging the surface.

10 Regular Maintenance
We have designed the MINI+ as a reliable 3D printing workhorse, however, it’s still a machine with
moving parts, which means it requires maintenance from time to time. Following the instructions
below will ensure that your 3D printer will remain in good shape for a long time.

35
10.1 Steel sheets
If the printed objects have trouble adhering to the steel sheet surface, you need to wipe the sheet
clean. Choose the right cleaning product for your sheet (see below), pour a small amount of it onto an
unscented paper towel and wipe the print surface. The bed should be cleaned while cold to achieve
the best results - cleaning the bed when hot can lead to potential injury, either from the heatbed
or from the nozzle. When cleaning at higher temperatures, the alcohol will evaporate before it can
clean anything. More details can be found in the Your First Print chapter at the beginning of this
handbook.
The surface does not have to be cleaned before every print! It is just important not to touch the
steel sheet with your hands or dirty tools.
Recommended cleaning products for different types of sheets are listed below:
Smooth PEI sheet Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ Use Windex when printing
(IPA) is the best degreaser. DO with PETG
NOT use hand sanitizers and Use glue stick when printing
similar products even though FLEX
they may contain IPA, since
they usually contain lubricants IPA + PETG will cause the
and moisturizers! print to adhere very strongly to
the sheet. Removing it could
Windex - degreasing effect be extremely difficult
is worse compared to IPA
Warm water + few drops
with dish soap (in case
IPA/Windex don’t remove
sugar residue on the sheet)
Acetone - once in a while to
rejuvenate the sheet

Textured powder-coated Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ Never use acetone

sheet (IPA) - best degreaser Windex - degreasing effect
is worse compared to IPA

Calibration values might be slightly different for different steel print sheets because the
coating thickness varies. If you just switched the steel sheets, visually inspect the quality of
the first layer and adjust the nozzle height accordingly with Live Adjust Z when switching
between different types of steel sheets.

Consumable parts, such as PEI sheets (smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by our warranty
because the coatings are designed to diminish over time unless failure has occurred due to a
defect in materials or workmanship. Cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches,
dents, cracks or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only sheets that are
defective on arrival are covered by warranty.

The surface does not have to be cleaned before every print! It is just important to not touch the
steel sheet with your hands or dirty tools.

36
 All original print surfaces by Prusa Research are coated from both sides

Smooth PEI sheet, Textured powder-coated PEI and the effect on the first layer

10.2 Spring steel sheet with TEXTURED double-sided PEI

• Scratch-proof surface, damage-resistant • PLA prints with a small contact area may
• Transfers texture onto the first layers of need a brim
your prints • PLA prints with a huge footprint (across the
• More forgiving Live Adjust Z setting entire sheet) may warp
• No need for Windex with PETG • Need to change Live Adjust Z if you also
own Smooth PEI sheet
• No need for glue stick with FLEX
• Prints usually detach automatically once • Never clean with acetone
the sheet cools down
• The first layer can be more squished (see
Live Z calibration chapter) compared to
smooth sheets
The powder coating applied directly onto metal helped us create a build plate that is highly
damage-resistant. If a heated nozzle crashes into it, metal can dissipate the heat. Powder coating
also gives the surface a distinct textured look that will be visible on your prints.
The textured surface hides most of the mechanical damage caused by various tools. Only the top of
the small bumps can be scratched, however, these scratches will not affect the bottom of the model.

Never clean the textured powder-coated sheet with acetone! Doing so will create
microfractures in the PEI texture, which will cause the surface to deteriorate over time.

This surface is used on our print farm, look at the printed parts you have on your printer for reference.

10.3 Spring steel sheet with SMOOTH double-sided PEI

• Perfect for PLA • Do not clean with IPA when printing with
• Great adhesion with almost all materials PETG. Release agent might be necessary.
• Smooth bottom of prints • You must apply glue stick when printing
Flex
• Tiny details will stick great
• Rejuvenate with acetone from time to time • Need to change Live Adjust Z if you also
own the textured PEI sheet

37
 The industrial glue which holds the PEI sheet on the heatbed itself softens when
temperatures greater than 110 °C are used. If higher temperatures are used, the glue can
migrate under the PEI and create slight bumps on the surface.

If you notice small bubbles forming under the PEI sheet simply flip the sheet over and print
on the other side. These bubbles do not affect the print quality and will disappear after a few
days or weeks.

10.4 Increasing the adhesion

In some special cases, such as printing a tall object with a very small contact area (with the print
surface), you might need to increase the adhesion. Fortunately, PEI is a very chemically resistant
polymer and you can temporarily apply various adhesion solutions without damaging it. This also
applies to certain materials that would not stick to PEI under normal circumstances. Check the
material guide for material-specific instructions. Always stick to safe removal techniques described
in this handbook and/or at help.prusa3d.com.
Before applying anything onto the bed, consider using the Brim option in PrusaSlicer which
increases the surface area of the first layer.

10.5 Steel sheet profiles

Both the smooth PEI and textured powder-coated PEI sheets have their advantages as explained
in the previous chapters. It is possible that you might have both of them and switch between
them based on your current needs. However, swapping sheets requires an extra step: you need
to calibrate the Live Z value every time you switch sheets - this is because various sheets have
various thickness.
To avoid re-calibrating the Live Z value every time you switch sheets, we are introducing Steel
Sheet Profiles (starting with firmware 4.3.0). Navigate to LCD Menu - Settings - HW Setup - Sheet
profiles to find a list of sheet profiles. Select a profile and perform the first layer calibration. This
will save the Live Z value into the selected sheet profile. Do this for every sheet you own and you can
then switch between easily them either from the Sheet profiles menu, or directly from the Settings
menu - look for the name of the sheet in brackets. Click the item to switch to another profile - only
profiles with valid first layer calibration are displayed.
By default, you will see the following profiles in the Sheet profiles menu: smooth1, smooth2,
textured1, textured2, custom1, custom2. Select any of them to display the following options:
• Select - confirms the selection of the sheet, which will then become the default
• First layer calibration - starts the first layer calibration process for the selected sheet profile
• Reset - sets the first layer calibration values back to the factory defaults.

10.6 Bearings
After a couple hundred hours of printing, the smooth rods should be cleaned with a paper towel.
The MINI+ comes with a tube of Prusa lubricant and you can also buy it in our e-shop in the
Accessories section. Apply it onto the smooth rods (XYZ axes). Then, move the X-axis by hand left
and right a couple of times and use the printer’s menu to move the Z-axis up and down. Move
the heatbed back and forth on the Y-axis. For our detailed maintenance guide, please head to
help.prusa3d.com.

38
If you feel that one of the axes doesn’t move smoothly anymore, the bearings can be taken out and
greased on the inside (they need to be removed from axis because the plastic lip will prevent most
of the grease from getting inside).

10.7 Fans
Both fans measure current RPM (Revolutions Per Minute), meaning they can detect when the fan
suddenly slows down, e.g. due to a piece of filament getting stuck in it. If you get a fan error, check
that it can rotate freely; clear any debris that may be stuck in it.
Both fans should be checked and cleaned every couple hundred hours. Computer cleaner spray
(compressed air) will get the dust away and tweezers can be used for little plastic strands. Do not
blow compressed air on running fans.

10.8 Extruder drive gear

The extruder gears do not need any lubrication. Over time, the extruder gears can suffer from a
build-up of filament shavings in the grooves, which can cause under-extrusion. Use compressed
air to blow the debris out or use a small brass brush to clean the grooves, a regular toothpick will
do the job as well. Check and clean from the access window on the top of the extruder assembly.
Clean what you can, then rotate the gear and repeat.

10.9 PTFE tubes

The MINI+ has four PTFE tubes that may need a basic level of attention from time to time. PTFE
tubes are used to lead filament strand from the spool, through the extruder, all the way to the nozzle.
Over time, filament debris can accumulate in the PTFE tubes over time.
Cleaning (or replacing) the PTFE tubes is very easy - use a can with compressed air to clean them.
1. The first tube leads to the extruder and it can be pulled out with your hand. If you have trouble
disconnecting it, you might need to loosen an M3×12 screw in the extruder. Please see the
article "How to access and clean the extruder-pulley (MINI)" at help.prusa3d.com
2. The second tube leads from the extruder to the print head. Use a spanner (size 10) to loosen
the nuts - this is also useful if the filament failed to load/unload and got stuck in this tube
3. Remove the main PTFE tube (as described in Step 2) and also undo the fittings in the extruder
or in the print head to access PTFE tube three and four. These only need to be inspected if the
filament fails to pass through them.
39
10.10 Clogged / jammed extruder
Material clogged in the extruder can cause problems with the printing or with the loading of a new
filament.
On the right side of the extruder (when viewed from the front), there’s a screw right under the PTFE
tube. You can use this screw to increase or decrease the idler’s pressure. If you remove the screw
completely, you can open the idler door on the left side of the extruder - make sure the print head is
on the opposite side of the X-axis.

Opening the idler will enable you to clean both gears easily and/or remove any filament leftovers
caught in the extruder gears. It’s advised to inspect the gears from time to time and remove any
debris caught in the extruder

40
 Open idler - you can see the strand of loaded filament inside

10.11 Nozzle cleaning

Do not touch the nozzle during these procedures - it’s very hot and it may cause burns!

To make cleaning easier, move the print head all the way up in the LCD menu - Settings - Move
axis - Move Z axis. You will gain better access to the hotend.

10.11.1 The filament is being extruded just a little

If the filament doesn’t go through the extruder smoothly and only a small volume is coming out, first
check if the extruder fan is working properly and that the temperature is set correctly (PLA 215 °C;
ASA 260 °C, PETG 230 °C). Also, check that the filament was correctly loaded into the extruder.
If that is not the case. Follow the instructions below:
1. Heat the nozzle according to the filament you want to print from. Load the filament and push
an acupuncture needle (bundled with the printer) or a thin wire (0.3-0.35 mm) into the nozzle
from below - between 1 and 2 cm deep. Wearing gloves is recommended - melted material
may pour out unexpectedly.
2. Choose Load filament option from the LCD menu and check if the filament is extruded properly.
3. Push the acupuncture needle or wire into the nozzle again and repeat these steps several times.
When the filament is extruded properly, the nozzle is clear.

10.11.2 The filament is not pushed out of the nozzle

If you can see the filament passing through the main PTFE tube, yet none of the filament is going
through the nozzle, then most likely, your hotend got clogged. In order to fully clear it, please follow
these instructions:
1. Heat up the nozzle to 250 °C for PLA or 270°C for ABS jams.

41
2. Wait 3-5 minutes and then go to LCD Menu - Load filament. If you cleared the clog and the
filament went through, simply lower the temperature to normal and re-do load filament again.
3. If the filament loads successfully, you can resume printing.

10.12 Replacing / changing the nozzle

If you are replacing the Olsson Ruby nozzle, please visit

this website for instructions, otherwise, you might damage it -
support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use

CAUTION: Heated parts can cause severe burns! Be extra careful around the hotend thermistor
leads. You can break them off easily

1. Preheat the nozzle to 290 °C (LCD Menu - Settings - Temperature - Nozzle). Heating the
nozzle is essential for this process!
2. Unload any loaded filament

42
3. Gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder axis as high as possible: Go to LCD
Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Move Z.
4. Hold the heater block with a 16mm spanner (or an adjustable wrench). Use pliers, or preferably
a 7mm socket to unscrew the nozzle (counter-clockwise). BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL, THE
NOZZLE IS VERY HOT!!
5. Carefully store the old nozzle in a safe location, insert the new nozzle and tighten it gently - do
not use excessive force!
6. Insert a filament and you are ready to print.

The nozzle is hot during this whole process and can cause burns!

Be careful around the hotend thermistor leads, you can break them easily!

You can bend the heatbreak easily - do not use excessive force! Run First layer calibration after
changing the nozzle!

10.13 Flashing unsigned firmware

We take safety very seriously. Before every release, our firmware goes through intense testing to
verify that all safety features work properly. If any of the sensor readings fall out of line, heating
is stopped to prevent any possible damage to the printer and its surroundings. We cannot verify
that these safety features are present in community-made firmwares.

Official firmware is signed with a private key and the printer verifies this signature before an
update. To flash your own (or a community-made) unsigned firmware, you’ll have to break the
appendix on the Buddy board and move the jumper into the correct position. This also voids
your warranty on electronics. First, pull out the power switch to access the appendix (1). Then take
a thin screwdriver and carefully break off the middle part (2) - see the pictures in this chapter! Also,
check the three pins above it - there must be a jumper on the two pins closer to the center of
the board. It’s possible that the jumper is installed on a different set of pins - in that case, move it
according to the picture below. If the jumper is missing, add it before booting.
Breaking the appendix on the Buddy board is IRREVERSIBLE and VOIDS WARRANTY OF YOUR
PRINTER’S ELECTRONICS. If you break the appendix, we disclaim responsibility for any possible
damage done to the printer and/or its surroundings (e.g. in case of a fire).

43
 Unbroken (left) and broken appendix (right), the correct location of the jumper (lower photo)

11 Filament sensor (optional accessory)

You can buy a mechanical IR sensor as an optional accessory for the Original Prusa MINI+. The
sensor is installed onto the end of the PTFE tube where you insert the filament into the printer, and
it needs to be connected to the mainboard. It uses a simple mechanism to detect whether a strand
of filament is inserted or not. Thanks to the filament sensor, the printer can pause the print in case
you run out of filament. Once you insert a new filament strand, you can resume the print.

Installation instructions can be found at help.prusa3d.com.

44
11.1 Running out of filament
In case you have the optional filament sensor, running out of filament will no longer cause a
print failure. If you run out of filament, the printer will automatically pause the print, unload the
remaining few centimeters in the heatbreak, and move the X-carriage away from the print. You will
be prompted to replace the spool and insert a new filament strand. Use pliers to remove the filament
extruded during the loading process. Once this is done, you can continue in the current print.
If you don’t have the filament sensor, it’s possible that once you run out of filament, the remaining
strand will be left in the main PTFE tube and the extruder won’t be able to pull it out. Use a spanner
to unscrew the nut on the main PTFE tube and disconnect it from the extruder. Then, manually,
pull the filament strand out - don’t forget to preheat the nozzle! See chapter PTFE tubes for exact
instructions on how to remove the PTFE tube.

11.2 False sensor readings and debugging

If you encounter issues with the filament sensor, such as incorrect (or random) readings, please
make sure that the sensor is connected properly. Follow the steps in the assembly guide at
help.prusa3d.com (Original Prusa MINI+ assembly - Building your MINI+ - 27. Connecting the
filament sensor) and open the electronics box cover. Inspect whether the filament sensor is
connected correctly and that the wiring is not damaged. Contact our tech support if the issue
persists.

12 FAQ - common issues and how to solve them

Starting with firmware 4.5, the MINI+ will display an error screen with a short explanation of the
issue it encountered. This screen also contains a link to a relevant article at help.prusa3d.com,
and a QR code, which you can scan with your mobile phone to display the help page.

12.1 Skewed X-axis

If Mesh Bed Leveling fails, there are two possible causes of this: a faulty SuperPINDA sensor, or a
skewed X-axis. The latter is usually the result of incorrect assembly. Loosen the three screws that
connect the whole Z-axis assembly to the Y-axis (heatbed). Re-attach the Z-axis according to the
assembly manual. Pay special attention to the correct alignment of both parts.
Once the 3D printer is reassembled, move the Z-axis (nozzle) close to the steel sheet without
touching it. Then, carefully move the print head from left to right by hand and observe, whether
the nozzle keeps the same distance from the sheet all the time.
Slight deviations are allowed, since the printer can compensate for them thanks to the Mesh Bed
Leveling routine.
A faulty SuperPINDA sensor can be recognized easily. When you start Mesh Bed Leveling from
the Calibration menu, you can see a red light at the top of the sensor. If it turns off during a certain
movement or it doesn’t light up at all, then the sensor or its cable can be defective. More details
can be found at help.prusa3d.com - see Original Prusa MINI+ - Troubleshooting - XZ-axis skew
correction.

12.2 Printer can’t read the USB drive

If the printer can’t read the USB drive, first try restarting the printer. In case you see an error say
“Error mounting USB drive”, your USB drive probably has an incompatible filesystem (e.g. exFAT)
or may be too large. Try using a smaller FAT32-formatted USB drive (e.g. 4-16 GB). Please visit

45
help.prusa3d.com - section Original Prusa MINI+ - About your printer - SD cards and USB drives
to learn more about supported sizes and formatting options.
There are two common situations after inserting the USB drive:
The Print menu is inaccessible after inserting a USB drive
• First, restart the device
• Use a USB drive with a single partition and FAT32 file system
• Try a different USB drive
• If you tried various USB drives and they are still not recognized, your motherboard might be
defective. Contact our tech support.
The USB drive is recognized, but no files are shown in the list
• Make sure you’re using a compatible G-code
• Make sure the file was written onto the drive fully and correctly (use the safe remove function
in Windows before you remove the USB drive)
• Try a different flash drive and G-code file
• Try renaming the file to something simple, e.g. print.gcode

12.3 Loose X- and/or Y-axis belts

Check if both belts are properly tightened, loose belts would cause a printer malfunction and
prevent proper printing. The easiest way to check is printing a round object - if any of the belts
are not tightened properly the result is an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle. Y-axis belt
is located under the heatbed, X-axis belt moves the print head. You can find a detailed guide
at help.prusa3d.com, section Original Prusa MINI+ - Using the printer - Printer maintenance -
Adjusting belt tension (MINI+).

12.4 Filament stuck in the PTFE tube

If a filament strand gets stuck anywhere in the printer, it’s generally very easy to remove it. Follow
the steps described in the Clogged / jammed extruder chapter - disconnect the main PTFE tube
and inspect where the filament got stuck and proceed accordingly.

12.5 X-Axis homing fails

This is most likely caused by the cables leading from the print head to the extruder getting in the
way. When the print head is about to hit the right side of the printer (the Z-axis tower), pay close
attention whether there are no cables blocking the way.

12.6 Heating errors

If your printer stops with a red screen and error related to heating, please check the wiring of the
heaters and thermistors. See help.prusa3d.com for more details.

12.7 Fan errors

If your printer stops operating and displays an error related to fans, please check the wiring of both
print head fans (hotend fan and print fan). See help.prusa3d.com for more details.

12.8 Downgrading the firmware

In some cases, you might need to downgrade the firmware to an older version. To do this, place an
older firmware file onto a FAT32-formatted USB drive. Insert the drive into the printer, press the
restart button and once the screen shows the Original Prusa MINI+ logo, press the knob once. This
46
will activate the firmware flashing screen. Select Flash to overwrite the current firmware with the
one placed on the USB drive.

13 Advanced hardware troubleshooting

Starting with firmware 4.5, the MINI+ will display an error screen with a short explanation of the
issue it encountered. This screen also contains a link to a relevant article at help.prusa3d.com,
and a QR code, which you can scan with your mobile phone to display the help page.

Advanced hardware troubleshooting and part replacement guides are available online through
help.prusa3d.com.

14 Print quality troubleshooting

If you feel your prints are not fully up-to-specs, or they display some serious quality issues (shifted
layers, ghosting, under-extruded parts), you may need to run some troubleshooting. Head over to
help.prusa3d.com and visit the Original Prusa MINI+ - Troubleshooting section, where you can
find detailed troubleshooting guides along with illustrations and printer-specific instructions.

47
 Print and share!

Do not forget to tag your prints with #prusamini while sharing so we can
find, pin and showcase them with our

http://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-prints/

Happy Printing :)

48