SEAM & SEAM FINISHES When this seam is completed, it looks

Fabric is joined together using very similar to the French seam. A

seams-whether it be for an item of mock French seam is best used on
clothing, craft work, or soft furnishings. cotton or firmer fine fabrics. It is
While seam finish is applied to/used on constructed on the wrong side of the
the unfinished seam edge to prevent work.
raveling, curling, or rolling
6. SLOTTED SEAM
TYPES OF SEAM A slotted seam is a decorative seam,
1.PLAIN SEAM shown on the right side. The edges of
A plain seam is 5/8 in (1.5 cm) wide. It the seam open to reveal an under
is important that the seam is stitched layer, which could be a contrasting
accurately at this measurement, fabric.
otherwise the item being made will
come out the wrong size and shape 7. TOP STITCH SEAM
A top-stitched seam is very useful as it
SEAM FINISHES THAT CAN USE IN is both decorative and practical. This
PLAIN SEAM seam is often used on crafts and soft
PINKED furnishings as well as garments.
ZIGZAG
CLEAN FINISH COLLAR
OVEREDGE STITCH All collars consist of a minimum of two
pieces, the upper collar (which will be
2. FRENCH SEAM on the outside) and the under collar.
A French seam is a seam that is Interfacing, which is required to give
stitched twice, first on the right side of the collar shape and structure, is often
the work and then on the wrong side, applied to the upper collar to give a
enclosing the first seam. smoother appearance to the fabric

3. RUN AND FELL TYPES OF COLLARS

strong seam with two lines of stitching
showing on the right side that is FLAT COLLAR
produced by folding one raw edge STEPS IN MAKING FLAT COLLAR
under the other and stitching it flat or 1 Cut out the fabric for the collar
slip-stitching it on the wrong side. accurately. Make sure the two halves
match.
4. SELF-BOUND SEAM
2.Cut out a fusible interfacing, being
Another strong seam, this is
constructed in a similar way to the run sure to cut on the same grain as the
and fell seam but on the wrong side of collar. Apply the interfacing to the
the work upper collar.

5. MOCK FRENCH
3. Insert tailor's tacks at the center 5. Clip though the seam
front point of the collar where indicated allowances-this will allow the
fabric to relax into shape
by a dot on the pattern piece
when pressed later.
4. Pin the upper collar and under
6. Working from the wrong side
collar
garment, turn the center front
5. Machine stitch 1.5 cm along the
edge as indicated by the
outer curve
pattern. This will leave the
6. Trim the under collar seam
front edge of the collar
7. Trim around the curve using
sticking out from the
pinking shears
garment.
8. Clip the curve on the collar
7. the under 7 collar to the
9. Press the seam allowance
upper collar, right side to
10. Working from the the collar,
right side, along the top edge.
push all the seam allowance toward
8. Machine the two pieces
the under collar and machine it to
together using a % in (1.5 cm)
the under collar. This is called
seam allowance.
understitching and will hold the
9. At the center front, the
collar in shape.
reduced neck seam
11. Understitch as far through the
allowance needs to be
curve as you can.
pointing up into the collar, so
12. Prather und Press the curved
that the machining attaching
edge flat, pushed out completely on
the two collar sections
the seam right side.
together goes over it. Be sure
the machining is in line with
STAND COLLAR
the center front of the
1. Apply a fusible interfacing to
garment.
the upper collar (see page
10. Reduce the seam allowance
161). Insert any tailor's tacks
to half its width on the under
as indicated on the pattern.
collar side of the seam (the
2. Pin the upper collar,
non-interfaced side).
2nterfacing side out, to the
11. Clip V shapes out of the
neckline of the garment,
seam allowance to reduce the
matching any notches and
bulk. Be careful not to cut
tailor's tacks at the center
through the stitching.
front edge.
12. Press the seam as it has
3. Machine the upper collar to
been stitched, and while
the neckline using a % in (1.5
warm turn to the right side.
cm) seam allowance. Make
13. Turn the lower edge seam
sure the stitching stops at the
allowance on the under collar
tailor's tack at the front edge.
and baste in place around the
4. Reduce the seam allowance
neck edge.
on the upper collar by half.
 14. Use a flat fell stitch to secure A few sleeves, such as the dolman,
the under collar at the neck are cut as part of the garment, but
edge most sleeves, including set-in and
raglan, are made separately and then
BLOUSE COLLARS WITH REVELS inserted into the armhole.
1. Construct the collar by
placing the fabric right side to Inserting a set-in sleeve
right side. Mark any pattern
markings with tailor's tacks. POCKETS
Machine at in (1.5 cm)
2. Trim away the under 2 collar ● Pockets can be functional or
side of the seam. just for show, and are essential
3. Clip across the corners on some items of clothing.
4. Athrough the seam allowance Making a pocket requires a little
of just the upper collar at the patience, but the finished result
tailor's tacks. Press this part is well worth it.
of the seam open. ● Pockets come in lots of shapes
5. Turn the collar through to the and formats. Some, such as
Sright side and press. The patch pockets, paper bag
seam allowance on the back pockets, and jetted pockets with
neck is pressed under a flap, are external and can be
between the clips. decorative, while others,
6. Place the collar to the neck, including front hip pockets, are
matching the sailor's tacks. more discreet and hidden from
Pin to secure view.
7. Baste in place through the ● They can be made from the
double in place the front and same fabric as the garment or
through the single layer collar from a contrasting fabric.
at the back neck. Whether casual or tailored, all
pockets are functional.

SLEEVES WHAT ARE THE THREE MAIN

TYPES OF POCKETS?
● Sleeves come in all shapes and The 3 main types of pockets are patch
lengths, and form an important pockets, flap pockets, and side seam
part of the design of a garment. pockets.
● They should always hang ● The basic design is called a
properly from the end of the patch pocket,
wearer’s shoulder, without ● the flap version of the patch
wrinkles. pocket is a flap pocket and the
● The lower end of the sleeve is ● side pocket blends into the
normally finished by means of a seam and is a secretive pocket
cuff or a facing.
PATCH POCKET
 Accordion pockets are an example as
Common and basic models seen they are expandable and can come in
primarily on shirts. Several other styles layers with other pockets.
implement this basic model with a
fabric patch sewn such that it makes a KANGAROO POCKET
pocket, which is appealing and
decorative as well. Big pouch pockets often seen in
hoodies, sweatshirts or jackets. Some
FLAP POCKET kangaroo pockets are split with a
zipper at the center.
If you close the patch pocket with a
flap with or without a button, you get a DRAPED POCKET
flap pocket. The pocket opening is
provided with a flap that is often seen Fabric is draped in different folds about
on jackets, shirts, and pants. They the pocket, for instance, a cowl pocket.
come in different styles. The additional fabric gives a draping
look around the pocket opening.
SIDE SEAM POCKET
COIN POCKET
section of the side seam that is
referred to as a secret pocket. It has Open-top pockets at the jeans back
evolved with decorative seam edges to and casual pants. They are distinctive
make it designer-looking, however the with creative embellishments like
pocket is more for a functional purpose decorative stitching, embroidery, or
that you will see in blazers or men’s buttons.
wear.
SLASH POCKET
ZIPPER POCKET
Used in skirts, pants, or jeans, they
Zippers on top of the side for enclosing begin at the waist and proceed
the patch pocket. The pocket design diagonally to the side seam. This line
and zippers are decorative and simple. can be curved or straight, but generally
sewn on a slant. It is called a scoop or
HIDDEN POCKET a cutaway pocket.

they are concealing and hiding. Often JETTED POCKET

used during traveling or for important
items to be kept safe. They are Tucked-in flap that creates a polished
primarily seen on the inside of jackets. silhouette. They appear on formal
clothing, sports coats and suits too.
CARGO POCKET
https://youtu.be/BDGsuj3aWBc
Folds, tucks, gathers, or pleats for
volume or space to hold more. PLACKETS
 ● the opening or slit at the top of a fabric to take on a shape that
skirt, or in a dress or blouse, fits the body well.
that facilitates putting it on and ● are often found in women’s
taking it off. clothing (but are also used in
● Modern plackets often contain men’s trousers and jackets),
fabric facings or attached bands and they primarily serve a
to surround and reinforce functional purpose — to fit the
fasteners such as buttons, contours of the garment to your
snaps, or zippers. body in a flattering way.
●
STANDARD DARTS
CONTINUOUS BOUND PLACKET
is open at one end, often looking like a
This is also called one-piece placket triangle on the pattern piece, and can
and may be made in a seam or slash. be used at the bust or waist (some
It is suitable for children's dresses, patterns have both to create a fitted
undergarments like sari petticoat, and bodice).
for sleeve openings
FRENCH DARTS
BOUND AND FACED PLACKET OR
TWO PIECE PLACKET ON A SEAM are more elongated than standard bust
darts. They start lower on the bodice
This is used in the left seam of skirts or (at the side seam, down near the
petticoats and back seam of dresses. waistline) and end up near the bust
The underlap side of this placket is point — effectively combining a bust
finished with a binding and the overlap dart and waist dart into one.
with a facing.
https://youtu.be/XBPoZ7CspEA
ZIPPER PLACKET
TUCKS
Zippers are usually attached with
tapes and available in different sizes. a narrow fold of fabric that is used to
These can be selected depending decorate clothes. Tucks are usually
upon the size & color of the placket. sewn vertically and parallel, close
Garments with zipper are more together, in the chest area of a blouse
attractive & comfortable to the wearer. or a festive men's shirt.

https://youtu.be/AKbfMIkp95M https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO
8nAB3UHzc
DARTS
Sleeve
● It’s simply a folded wedge of
fabric that’s tapered and
stitched down, allowing flat
 ● Sleeves come in all shapes and the side seams being
lengths, and form an important constructed.
part of the design of a garment. ● This technique can be difficult
● They should always hang on some fabrics, such as those
properly from the end of the firmly woven, because no ease
wearer’s shoulder, without stitches are used.
wrinkles.
● The lower end of the sleeve is Kimono Sleeve
normally finished by means of a a sleeve is a very large, deep sleeve
cuff or a facing. that is inserted onto a garment prior to
its construction.
A few sleeves, such as the dolman, Some kimono sleeves are cut with a
are cut as part of the garment, but curve and others are cut straight, but
most sleeves, including set-in and they are made the same way.
raglan, are made separately and then
inserted into the armhole.
Skirt
Inserting a set-in sleeve
is the lower part of a dress or a

separate outer garment that covers a

person from the waist downwards.

Child’s Skirt
This is a simple skirt, cut from a long
strip of fabric. The skirt features tucks

at the hem edge that have been top

Puff Sleeve
stitched to produce a decorative effect,
● A sleeve that has a gathered
and then embroidered with a machine
sleeve head is referred to as a
stitch.
puff sleeve or gathered
Flat Sleeve
● On shirts and children’s clothes,
sleeves are inserted flat prior to
Button Through pressed folds, giving fullness at the
means the skirt has buttons on the hemline.
front on the skirt.
https://youtu.be/s9BlA4gP1x4?si=WnF
Cored -27Al4kksq8Ze
is made using triangular pieces of
material so that it is tight at the top and
flared at the bottom
SHIRRING-Shirring is the name given
Circular to multiple rows of gathers, it is an
A skirt cut in sections to make one or excellent way to give fullness in a
more circles with a hole for the waist, garment if using shining slastic bobbin
so the skirt is very full but hangs shiring gathers can stretch. On heavier
smoothly from the waist without darts, fabrics, such as for soft furnishings,
pleats, or gathers. static shining is more suitable.

Gypsy https://youtube.com/shorts/RAR2S3Tg
skirts that are richly provided with all fXk?si=hzXQPHMy1bqLv_QS
kinds of bohemian ingredients.
SMOCKING-Smocking is an
Gypsy skirts or gypsy skirts can be
embroidery technique used to gather
short, midi and long.
fabric so that it can stretch. Before
Puffball elastic, smocking was commonly used
a skirt that has a rounded shape in cuffs, bodices, and necklines in
because it is gathered (pulled together garments where buttons were
in folds) in at the bottom undesirable.

Kilt https://youtube.com/shorts/hQPpVnuu
a knee-length pleated skirt usually of dek?si=iDocPOC1C7XU1a51
tartan worn by men in Scotland and by
RUFFLES-Ruffles can be single layer
Scottish regiments in the British
or double layer and are used to give a
armies.
decorative gathered effect to a
Pleated garment. The amount of fullness in a
is a garment with vertical creases in ruffle depends on the fabric used to
the fabric, also known as pleats. it achieve a similar result. a fine, thin
helps to add the body to the shape of fabric will need twice the fullness of a
the skirt. thicker fabric.

https://youtube.com/shorts/7IKCaYPy7
R4?si=AQj3vpEUr95dJ8iY
PLEATS-A pleat is a fold or series of
folds in fabric. Pleats are most
commonly found in skirts where the
pleats are made to fit around the waist
and hip and then left to fall in crisply