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Basic Seam Types

There are several basic seam types that are useful for different fabrics and uses: - The flat seam is the basic seam where fabric is placed right sides together and sewn 5/8" from the cut edge. It is good for many fabrics and garments to be lined. - The French seam encloses the cut edge by sewing the fabric wrong sides together close to the edge, trimming, turning right sides together and sewing again. It is useful for light fabrics that fray. - The felled seam involves sewing 5/8" from the cut edge, pressing open and trimming one seam allowance, then folding it over the other to enclose the edges. It makes a strong seam for jeans

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412 views9 pages

Basic Seam Types

There are several basic seam types that are useful for different fabrics and uses: - The flat seam is the basic seam where fabric is placed right sides together and sewn 5/8" from the cut edge. It is good for many fabrics and garments to be lined. - The French seam encloses the cut edge by sewing the fabric wrong sides together close to the edge, trimming, turning right sides together and sewing again. It is useful for light fabrics that fray. - The felled seam involves sewing 5/8" from the cut edge, pressing open and trimming one seam allowance, then folding it over the other to enclose the edges. It makes a strong seam for jeans

Uploaded by

Abdul Wahab Babu
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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BASIC SEAM TYPES

There are a number of different types of seams that have been


developed over the years to do different jobs. While many have
largely been superseded by the development of machine stitches
that finish as you sew them, and by the development of the
overlocker (or 'serger' in some parts of the world), it is useful to
know some of the basic seams types and finishes. A lack of
expensive machinery need not prevent you sewing the garments you
want. Also, some of the older methods have never been bettered.
Here I am concentrating on machine sewn seams using a standard
straight stitch machine.

When you have chosen your fabric and pattern, you need to think
about the most suitable way to sew the garment together. This will
depend partly on the type of fabric, partly on the use the garment
will get, and partly on the finish you want.

There are a few terms that you will need to know so that you can
understand what the different parts of the seam are:

• CUTTING LINE: the line on which the garment is cut out


• STITCHING LINE/SEAM LINE: the line on which the seam
is sewn
• SEAM ALLOWANCE: the area of fabric between the
stitching line and the cutting line. This is usually 5/8" or
1.5cm. Some patterns allow more in some areas, and some allow
less. Always check before making up a pattern.

Kate’s magic tip: a standard dressmaker’s tape measure is the


standard seam allowance wide. Use it as a handy reference.
The following diagrams show some of the basic seams, and explain
where they might be used.

FLAT SEAM
To sew this seam, place the fabric right sides together, and sew
5/8"/1.5cm from the cut edge, using a straight stitch. Press the
seam allowance open.
This is the basic seam used as a basis for many of the others, and
still the best option for a wide range of garments and fabric types.
It is very good on fabrics that are fine but do not fray. It is also
the standard seam for sewing any garment that is to be lined. For
some seam finishes to use with the flat seam, look at the Seam
Finishes page.

FRENCH SEAM

To sew this seam, start with the fabric wrong sides together. Sew
the seam very close to the edge; about ¼"/ 4mm from the cut edge.
Trim off any thready or uneven bits, and press closed. Turn the
fabric right sides together and press again. Sew the seam again,
this time about 3/8"/5mm from the edge, enclosing the cut edge,
again using a straight stitch. Press to one side. This seam is useful
on light fabrics, which can fray. It is also useful on semi-sheer
fabrics. It can be used on blouses and shirts, and on some
underwear.
FELLED SEAM
To sew this seam, place the fabric right sides together. Sew
5/8"/1.5cm from the cut edge. Press open, and trim one seam
allowance to 1/3 of its original width. Press the full seam allowance
in half, folding the cut edge towards the stitching. Fold over the
narrower seam allowance, hiding the cut edges. Sew 1/8"/2mm from
the fold. This seam is usually sewn with the fold towards the back
of the garment.
For decorative seams, sew in exactly the same way but starting with
the fabric wrong sides together. You can do the final line of
stitching in a decorative thread. On very thick fabric you may need
to cut a wider seam allowance: do a test seam first, before cutting
out the garment.

This is a very strong seam, frequently used up the sides of jeans


and trousers. It can also be used for its decorative effects on coats
and jackets. On light fabrics, it gives a neat, flat finish and in the
past was popular for making shirts, nightwear, underwear, and
children’s clothes. Because all edges are enclosed, and it is very
strong, it will withstand the frequent washing these clothes need.

All these seams can be sewn on a basic sewing machine.

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