SEAMS

A seam is a join of two or more pieces of fabric.

PARTS OF A SEAM
A seam allowance is the measurement from the stitching line to the raw edges of the
fabric.
Keeping an even seam allowance while stitching is important as it make your pattern
pieces to fit together perfectly. The completed seam allowance is referred to as the width
of the seam.
FUCTIONS OF SEAMS
• To join sections of garments
• To decorate the garment
• To give shape to the garment
• To prevent the garment from fraying

RULES FOR MAKING SEAMS

*The seam should be suitable for the type of garment and fabric
*Seams should be strong, straight and lie flat when competed
*Seams should be neatly finished
*Press seams when completed
*The colour of the thread and size of machine stitching should match the colour and
texture of fabric.
CHOICE OF SEAMS
The choice of seams depends on the following;
- Material used
- Garment made
- Position of seam
- Shape of seam

TYPES OF SEAMS
There are three types of seams namely;
• Open/plain seam
• French seam
• Double machine stitched/machined fell seam

*The fourth type of seam is known as the overlaid seam

1. OPEN/PLAIN SEAM
This is the most common and easiest seam to make. It is also used as a basis for the other
seams. It is used to join straight or curved edges.
METHOD [Text book two page 192]
2. FRENCH SEAM
This seam encloses the seam allowance on the inside of the seam [known as self
neatening]. It is used on fine, light weight or transparent fabrics that fray. It can be used
on blouses, undergarments, babies and children’s clothing. It should not be used on
medium to heavy weight fabrics as it makes them to be bulky.
METHOD [Text book two page 194]
3. DOUBLE MACHINE STITCHED/MACHINED FELL SEAM
It is a very strong flat seam that lies comfortable next to the skin. It is used on jeans,
coats, pyjamas and jackets. The seam is also decorative.
METHOD [Text book two page 94]
SEAM FINISHES
A seam finish is a neatening method that is applied to the raw edges of an open seam.
Seam finishes prevents the fabric from fraying and adds strength to a seam so it can
withstand friction during use and laundering.
An open seam can be finished in the following ways;
• Pinking
• Zig zag stitch
• Edge stitching
• Over casting
• Over locking
• Blanket stitching
 OPENINGS

An opening is a process on a garment that allows one to put on and take off the garment
easily.

FUNCTIONS OF OPENINGS

• To enable garments to be put on and taken off easily

• To decorate the garment

POSITIONS OF OPENINGS

Openings are found on the neck, above or below the waist, at the wrist, on the side seams,
on the centre front and centre back of the garment.

TYPES OF OPENINGS

The following are types of openings commonly used on garments;

• Faced slit opening

• Overlapping hem opening
• Bound opening
• Continuous strip opening
• Zip opening

POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN MAKING OPENINGS

- It should be very strong, especially at the base to prevent the fabric fro tearing.
- It should be the correct length otherwise if short there will be too much strain on the
base of the opening causing it to tear.
- It should be easy to fasten
- It should lie flat when fastened
- Openings must be well made and neatly finished; otherwise they will spoil the
appearance of the garment.

THE HEM OPENING

This is one of the strongest openings found on most garments and household articles.

METHOD OF MAKING A HEM OPENING

TEXT BOOK TWO PAGE ______

THE BOUND OPENING

Bound openings are usually made on thin fabrics. A slit is slashed and the edges are then
bound with a crossway strip to neaten the edges.

METHOD FOR MAKING A BOUND OPENING

TEXT BOOK TWO PAGE ______

FACED OPENING
This type of opening is cut after it has been stitched to a facing. The opening does not
overlap.

METHOD OF MAKING A FACED OPENING

TEXT BOOK TWO PAGE______

CONTINOUS STRIP OPENING

Like the faced and bound opening, this opening is constructed on a slit. They can be
made into a seam. A straight strip of fabric is stitched to the opening on a slit. This
opening is mainly used on children’s garments as well as on necklines, sleeves and
waistlines of garments.

METHOD

TEXT BOOK TWO PAGE ______

 FASTENINGS

Fasteners are small devices used to close openings.

FUNCTIONS OF FASTENINGS

- To close opening
- To decorate

TYPES OF FASTENINGS

• Buttons and buttonholes

• Hooks and eyes/bars
• Zip
• Button and loop
• Press studs
• Velcro
• Laces

POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING AND USING FASTENERS

1. They should be suitable in size and weight for the type of fabric being used.
2. They should always be sewn on double fabric. This ensures that the fasteners are
secure and that the fabric will not be under strain and tear.
3. They should be evenly spaced.
4. They should lie flat when fastened.
5. They should be completely hidden, unless they are used for decoration.
6. They should match the colours of the garment.
7. They should be fastened on the correct side.
 EDGE FINISHES
Edge finishing is a process /method used to make the outline of the garment, to neaten the
raw edges of a garment. The raw edges neatened are necklines, armholes, waistline and
hemline.

NB: This is the last process in garment construction

EDGE FINISH WAY OF FINISHING IT

Neckline Binding, facing and collar

Waistline Binding, waist band, casing and shaped
facing
Hemline Binding, hem and use of lace
Armhole Binding, casing and sleeve
Cuff line [sleeve] Cuff, binding, hem and facing with a
casing

FUNCTIONS OF EDGE FINISHES

• To prevent the raw edges of textile from fraying i.e neatening

• To enclose raw edges neatly/holding raw edges down securely preventing raw
edges from raveling [getting out of shape]
• To add a decorative touch to the item e.g piping, binding or facing in a contrasting
colour. [adds colour to an item to beautify it]
• To help prevent the edge from unnecessary stretching.
• To give stability to edges e.g waist bands that are normally interfaced and some
shaped facing make the edge stronger and hold the shape better.
• To add weight to the lower edge of a textile item so that it can hang attractively
• To help reduce pulling [strain] on seams and keep an item in its shape

NB; Attaching a lining is a method of covering/finishing raw edges on the inside of a

garment. Overlocking is sometimes used to finish raw edges.

POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN FINISHING EDGES

* FABRIC – Design and texture

* STYLE of a garment
* SHAPE of edge
* Number of seams
* Finished effect required.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BINDINGS AND FACINGS

*Bindings appear on both sides of the garment and facings appear on both sides
*Bindings are usually narrower than facings
*Hemming is usually used to finish bindings
*Bindings are usually attached on the right while facings are attached on the wrong side

CROSSWAY STRIPS

These are long narrow pieces of fabric cut on the cross grain at 45˚ angle to the selvedge.
They are cut on the true cross [bias], and they may be used to face or bind a raw edge.
They stretch as they are cut on the true cross, therefore they are used to finish round,
curved or shaped edges. They can also be used for a decorative effect on pockets and
collars.

Drawings………………….. Text book two

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SHAPED FACING AND CROSSWAY

FACING

SHAPED FACINGS

*They are cut on the same grain and to the same edge as they will face or neaten off
*They may be curved, square, rounded, painted or scalloped
*They are usually from the same fabric as the garment, unless if they are used for
decorative purposes
*The facings are usually used with interfacings

CROSSWAY FACINGS

* They are made from stripes that are cut on the true bias of the fabric, therefore have
great elasticity.
*They can be used when folded, doubled or when both edges are attached.
*If used attractively, it should be on the right side and should be stitched by a machine.
* They are narrow and made from light weigh fabric hence applied on the inside of the
garment.

TERMS USED IN TEXTILE AND THEIR IMPORTANCE

TRIMMING
This is a process where a stitched seam allowance is cut to a shorter width. It is usually
done on light weight fabrics.

IMPORTANCE: To reduce bulk [thickness] in a garment and to make the garment to

look neat and tidy on edges.
GRADING
This is trimming each layer of the seam allowance to a different width. It reduces bulk
more smoothly. It is done instead of trimming.

IMPORTANCE: This helps reduce bulk

CLIPPING
This is when a straight small cut [snip] is made on the inner curved edges.

IMPORTANCE: To enable the seam allowance to spread out and lie flat when turned.

NOTCHING
To cut wedges in the seam allowance of outer curved edges.

IMPORTANCE: To create room for the fabric to spread out flat when turned to the right
side.

PRESSING
This requires an up and down motion of the iron using a damp pressing cloth on the
pressed item.

IMPORTANCE
*To straighten the grain of the fabric
*Improve the final appearance of the garment
*To make garment lie flat and make the construction easier as pieces will become easy to
join when flat

IRONING
This is a back and forth motion of the iron or moving it over the surface of the garment.

IMPORTANCE: It prevents bulkiness of seams when turned.

NB: Pressing is done when the garment is being constructed, while ironing is done when
the garment is finished.

SLEEVES

There are three main types of sleeves namely;

1. Kimono/Magyar
2. Raglan
3. Set-in
 CRAFTS
These are unique items that are made out of one’s imagination/creativity. They can be
made from fibres, yarns, fabrics, grasses, clay, wood, stone, metal or any scraps of
different kinds of materials. Different kinds of crafts include the following;
• Batik
• tie an dye
• Weaving
• Painting
• Pottery
• Carving
• collage
• Beading

PURPOSES OF CRAFTS

- Some crafts items serve practical purposes e.g a clay pot can be used to
carry water while a quilted comforter provides protection from the cold
weather
- Some craft items are decorative e.g a wall hanging made of appliqué and
beading
- Other crafts combine both practical and decorative purpose

Some crafts are specific to certain regions in Botswana and teach us about people’s way
of life.

DIFFERENT WAYS OF MAKING FABRIC CRAFTS

Craft items can be made using fabric construction e.g weaving, knitting, macramé and
crocheting. Batik, tie and dye and paper mache can be explored to make unique craft
items.

APPLIQUE
This is a unique craft where a cut out design [motif] in a fabric is stitched to a different
background fabric. Appliqué creates a decorative effect by adding colour, design or
texture to an item.

QUILTING
Quilting is a craft technique that consists of two layers of fabric that are stitched together
with padding in between. The top layer of the fabric is what one sees. The middle layer is
a soft cotton material. The third layer is backing and it can be made of plain fabric.
Quilting can be used to make cushions, oven gloves, wall hangings, pace mats, e.t.c
PATCH WORK
Patch work consists of square or rectangular blocks that are stitched together to make one
big piece. Triangles, diamonds and hexagon shapes can also be used. Products of patch
work can be bags, wall hangings, skirts, jackets, e.t.c

PAINTING
Painting is the act of applying a colored substance directly to a surface to create
decorative, natural or imagined forms.

TYPES OF PAINTING
• Fabric painting
• Stencil or block painting
• Glass and ceramic painting
• Water painting
• Oil painting
Fabric painting is applying paint to a fabric to change the way the fabric eels.

MATERIALS NEEDED
Brushes, palette knife, fabric paint, squeeze bottle, Fabric markers, cloth, paper towel,
container with clean water and an iron.

Other types of crafts are as follows;

# Basketry
# Pottery
# Carving
# Collage
# Beading

BASKETRY
This is the act or process of making baskets. A basket is a container that is made out of
unspun vegetable fibre or any other material that is interwoven. People who make baskets
are baskets makers.

MATERIALS USED
Fibre material
Bodkin/wool
Utility knife

TYPES OF BASKETS
There are two types of baskets namely; *Woven baskets and coiled baskets

POTTERY

This refers to clay that is hardened by fire. It also refers to objects that made out of the
clay and then hardened by firing or baking. Examples of potter include bottles, jars, tea
cups, vases, lamps e.t.c
TOOLS AND MATERIALS FOR POTTERY
• Clay
• Potter’s wheel and turn table
• Cutting/ piecing tools
• Hands

CARVING
Carving is an act whereby wood, clay stones and bone is shaped using a sharp tool.
Examples of curved items include chairs, wooden spoons, forks, animals, tables.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS NEEDED FOR CARVING

• Wood
• Measuring and marking tools
• Cutting tools
• Shaping tools
• Finishing tools
• Protective clothing

COLLAGE

This is a picture made out of various materials that are glued unto a surface such as
canvas or a board. Any material can be used to make collage e.g paper, wood, fabric and
metal. Making collage is great way to recycle old newspapers and old magazines.

MATERIALS NEEDED
• Glue or any other adhesive
• A base or background
• Assorted material
• Scissors/craft knife
• Marker and coloured pencil

BEADING
A bead is a small shaped stone, wood, plastic, bone glass, paper or any other material
with a pieced hole that runs through its centre. The process of joining the beads together
is known as beading and the work created is called bead work. Various items can be
made using beads e.g jewellery, bags, wall hangings e.t.c

MATERIALS NEEDED
Bugle beads, drops, alphabet beads, seed beads, fancy beads, string beads, clasps, snaps,
bolt, wire hooks and jump rings, beading mat, tweezers, flat nose pliers, embroidery
scissors, wire cutters and needles
 PATTERNS

A commercial pattern is a ready to use pattern that is sold in n envelope. The pattern
envelope contains useful information on the front, back and inside the envelope.

THE FRONT OF THE PATTERN ENVELOPE

The front of the pattern envelope provides the following information;

• Company name e.d Vogue, simplicity, McCall’s.

• The pattern/style number
• Pattern size
• Style variations/view features of the item
• Accessories that go with the style
• Pattern price

THE BACK OF THE PATTERN ENVELOPE

The back of the envelope shows the following;

• Identification information i.e pattern number, number of pattern pieces and

pattern price.
• Black and white line drawings that show fashion details [zip location, pockets,
button positioning/ pleats, gathers, seams and darts]
• Style variations/ view features
• Suggested fabrics and their quantities, including those that are not suitable
• Notions: These are extras such as thread, seam bindings, zips, and ribbons. They
are needed to complete the garment.
• Standard body measurements
• Different size charts that help in choosing a suitable size
• Chart for fabrics: this tells you how much fabric to buy for the size and view you
want.
• Finished garment measurements.

Inside the pattern envelope, one finds the following;

THE PATTERN PIECES

These are printed on thin sheets of paper. Each pattern piece is identified by;

• The pattern name

• Section of a garment [e.g front, back or side]
• Number of pieces to cut e.g cut 2
• Pattern number
• Pattern sizes
• Trade mark name/company name
• View of the pattern piece
 • Instruction sheet
• Pattern markings

THE INSTRUCTION SHEETS

The instruction sheets provide the following information;

• Company name, pattern name and page number

• Drawings of the front and back views
• Pattern pieces and how many they are
• The body measurement chart is sometimes printed
• Information on how to prepare the pattern, pattern markings and how to lengthen
and shorten them
• Cutting and marking information
• Fabric cutting layouts
• General sewing information
• A glossary is sometimes included
• Pattern markings

The table below shows the pattern markings and how it is used.

PATTERN MARKING DESCRIPTION AND USE

The straight grain This is a bold solid double pointed arrow
line. It must be placed along the
lengthwise threads [parallel to the
selvedge] so that the garment hangs well

Place on fold A curved line with an arrow at each end.

The points of the arrow are placed directly
on the edge of the folded fabric so that the
pattern is cut in one piece.

Notches These are triangular or diamond shaped

symbols extending from the cutting line to
the seam allowance. They are used to
match section of an item that should be
matched together

The cutting line A solid line running along the outside of

the pattern piece.
 Stitching line and directional arrow This is indicated by broken lines. It is
normally 1.5cm from the cutting line.

Circles, dots and squares Indicates parts that should be joined

together or special construction details
such as sections to be gathered/where to
place belt loops

Dart Indicated by thin solid lines that meet at a

point. The line in the centre of the dart
indicates the folding line. A dart is used to
shape the garment.
Lengthening and shortening lines These are shown as two parallel lines that
indicate where the pattern can be cut

Other solid lines within pattern piece Indicates position of the centre front [CF]
or centre back, buttonholes, waistline,
hipline and where to place pockets.

PREPARING THE PATTERN AND FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING OUT

The pattern and fabric needs to be prepared in a certain way.

• Study the pattern instruction sheets and the back of the pattern envelope to
identify pieces you need for your chosen view
• Select the pattern pieces and separate them from the rest of the pattern piece
• Pres the selected pattern pieces with a warm iron dry iron to straighten
• Study the pattern instruction sheets again and see how the pattern pieces are going
to be laid out.

PREPARING THE FABRIC

Before laying out the patterns pieces on the fabric, prepare fabric as follows;

1. Prewash the fabric. This will prevent further shrinking in cotton fabrics.
2. Press fabric to remove creases
3. Check if the fabric is on grain. A fabric remains on grain when the weft and warp
threads are at right angles. The selvedges will be on each other.
 4. Fold fabric in half lengthwise. If selvedges do not lie on top of each other, your
fabric is off grain. It should be straightened before proceeding.
5. Straighten the fabric. You can use one of the following methods;
- Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Let someone hold two corners at one end and you
hold the other. Pull the fabric gently diagonally until it is straight.
- Snip the edges of a selvedge with scissors
- Snip the edge of a selvedge with scissors and tear the fabric from selvedge to
selvedge
- Cut along a pattern that is clearly seen e.g a stripe on some fabrics

LAYING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES ON FABRIC

The pattern layout on your instruction sheet will guide you on how to place the pattern
pieces on the fabric.

• Study he pattern markings on the pattern pieces

• Fold the fabric as suggested on the layout.
• Place the fabric on a smooth surface
• Layout and pin large pieces first, then place small ones
• Place the grain line on all pieces parallel to the selvedge
• Place the pieces with the place on fold symbol along a folded edge. Pin along the
fold
• Place all pieces as close as possible without overlapping the cutting lines
• Place pins perpendicular to the cutting edge, about 15 cm apart inside the cutting
line
• Pin the remaining pattern pieces
• Re-check your layout before you cut

CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES

To cut out your pattern pieces accurately, do the following

• Use a sharp dressmaker’s shears

• Hold down the pattern with your free hand
• Cut with long even strokes to get a smooth cut edge
• Cut around notches using the tip of the scissors
• Cut out double or triple notches as single units
• Move around the table instead of moving the fabric
• Leave the pattern pieces pinned to the fabric after cutting

TRANSFERRING PATTERN MARKINGS

All pattern markings should be transferred to the fabric before removing the pattern.
Always choose a method that is accurate and that does not permanently stain the fabric.
The following are ways of transferring pattern markings to the fabric;
 a. MARKING BY CLIPPING OR SNIPPING
Use a small pair of scissors to make a small clip at the tip of each dart, pleat lines, centre
lines, top of set in sleeve and where gathers are to be made.

b. USING A DRESSMAKER’S CARBON PAPER AND TRACING WHEEL

This method is suitable for transferring darts, pleat lines and centre lines.
- Pin the carbon paper on to the wrong side of fabric [where you want to transfer
the mark]
- Trace along pattern markings with a tracing wheel. Use a ruler to guide you trace
straight lines
- Remove pins and carbon paper

c. MARKING WITH A TAILOR’S CHALK OR PENCIL

This is suitable for marking straight lines and dots. You can transfer markings on to the
right side of fabric. Use a ruler to draw straight lines.

d. MARKING WITH PINS

- Support fabric with one hand, insert pins through all layers of fabric along the
outline of the pattern marking
- Carefully turn the pattern piece over and use a ruler and tailor’s chalk or pencil to
trace along the outline made by pins.
- Turn the pattern piece over again so that the pattern piece is up
- Carefully remove the pattern piece through the heads of the pins. Remove any
remaining pins holding the pattern on to the fabric
- Once again, trace the outline made by pins using tailor’s chalk

e. USING A TAILOR’S TACKING

Tailor’s tacking can be used to transfer pattern markings such as darts, gathering points
and positions of buttons.
- Use long double sewing threads or embroidery thread
- Use a different colour of thread for each type of marking
- Remove the cut threads after construction
SEWING STITCHES

CLASSIFICATION OF SEWING STITCHES

Stitches are classified in to two classes. They can be done by hand or machine. The two
classes are temporary stitches and permanent stitches.

TEMPORARY STITCHES
These are used to hold pieces of fabric together for a short time. They are then removed
after permanent sewing is done. Examples are tacking [by hand] or basting [by machine]
stitches.

a. Even tacking
Book 1, Page 152

b. Uneven tacking/long and short tacking

Book 1, page153

c. Diagonal tacking
Book 1, page 153

d. Tailor’s tacking
Book 1, page 153

PERMANENT STITCHES
These are used to hold pieces of fabric together securely [strongly]. They are grouped
according to their use.

1. STITCHES USED FOR JOINING

a. Running stitch
These stitches are short and equal in length. They are similar to even tacking but smaller
in size. They are used for joining seams by hand, mending or working gathers.

METHOD; Book 1 Page 155

b. Back stitch
This is the strongest hand stitch. It looks like a straight machine stitch on the right side. It
shows overlapping threads on the wrong side. It is perfect for joining and mending
[repairing] seams.

METHOD; Book 1 Page 155

c. Oversewing stitch
This stitch is used to join folded edges together, for example, the open edges of a
cushion.
METHOD; Book 1 page 156

2. STITCHES USED FOR HOLDING DOWN EDGES {Hemming stitches}

These stitches are used to hold down folded edges such as hems.

a. Hemming stitch
These are small slanting stitches that are visible on the right side of the garment.

METHOD; Book 1 page 157

b. Slip-hemming stitch
This stitch is also used to hold down folded edges. The stitches do not show on the right
side of the garment.

METHOD; Book 1 page 157

c. Herringbone stitch
This stitch is worked on folded edges. It can also be used to decorate textile articles and
joining interfacings. It shows on both sides of the garment.

3. STITCHES USED FOR NEATENING RAW EDGES

These stitches are used to neaten raw edges of fabric to prevent them from fraying.

a. Blanket/loop stitch
The stitch can sometimes be used in place for overcasting. It is used as a decorative stitch
in cut work, for making bars/eyes for metal hooks and attaching zipper tapes to the seam
allowance.
METHOD; Book 1 page 159

b. Buttonhole stitch
This stitch is used to neaten he raw edges of a handmade buttonhole. It forms a small
half-notch at the top of each stitch. Use a small to medium size needle so that your
stitches lie close together and prevent fraying.
METHOD; Book 1 page 159

c. Overcasting stitch
This stitch is used to neaten raw edges of a fabric that frays.
METHOD; Book 1 page 159

4. STITCHES USED FOR DECORATION

a. Cross stitch
These stitches forms X-shaped stitches as the name implies. It is usually worked on even
weave fabric because you can easily count the fabric threads.
METHOD; Book 1 page 160

b. Chain stitch
This stitch looks like a chain similar to that found on a bicycle. It produces a slightly
raised effect on your embroidery.
METHOD; Book 1 page 161

c. Satin stitch
This stitch is made of straight small slanting stitches. It can be used to fill small areas.
METHOD; Book 1 page 161

d. Stem stitch
This stitch forms a narrow outline that can be used as a filling to make stems of
plants/leaves.
METHOD; Book 1 page 162

e. French knots
These are small balls that create texture. The knots can be scattered or grouped to give
the desired effect. A double thread is used to make this stitch.
METHOD; Book 1 page 162

f. Lazy daisy stitch [detached chain stitch]

This stitch is commonly used for making flower petals and leaves.
METHOD; Book 1 page 163

g. Fly stitch
This is known as the Y stitch because of the way it looks. It is worked in a similar way to
lazy daisy stitch.
METHOD; Book 1 page 163.

WORKING SAFELY WITH SEWING TOOLS

Sewing can be dangerous. Sharp sewing tools such as pins, needles, e.t.c can pierce your
body or cause cuts. Electric bulbs and pressing equipment can cause cuts and burns. One
can create a safe sewing environment by practicing the following;

• Use all sewing equipment as specified by the manufacturer

• Never put pins or sewing needles in your mouth
• Use your scissors to cut thread
• Stop the machine while threading and remove your feet from the foot control to
avoid accidentally starting the machine
• Protect your finger with a thimble when sewing
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes
• Get a break when you feel tired
• Pick up pins from the floor using a magnetic pin cushion
• Switch off the iron when not in use
 • Keep sharp tools in a pencil case for safe keeping
• Correct faults in sewing machine early
• Do not allow children to play around the sewing machine

PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES

FABRIC CONSTUCTION TEHNIQUES

Several techniques are used to construct fabric/cloth. The main techniques are weaving
and knitting. How a fabric behaves during care and use depends on how it has been made,
type of yarn used and the finish applied to it.

1. WEAVING
This is the most common technique used to construct fabric. It can be done on a
frame/loom using two sets of yarn, the warp and the weft. The warp yarn runs lengthwise
on the loom whereas the weft yarn crosses each warp yarn horizontally at right angles.
The finished edge of fabric formed during weaving is called the selvedge. Woven fabric
does not stretch. There are three types of weaves namely;

a. Plain weave
This is the simplest and most important weave. Almost all woven fabrics are made of it.
It gives strongest fabrics. In this weave, one weft thread passes over and under one warp
thread.

b. Twill weave
This weave creates a diagonal pattern on the surface of the fabric. It produces strong
fabrics such as denim used for jeans and drill used in overalls. The weft crosses over and
under two warp threads.

c. Satin weave
Here the weft goes over four and under one warp threads. It creates long floats of thread
over the surface. It gives shiny fabrics used for evening wear and wedding gowns.

2. KNITTING

Knitting is one by interlocking loops of yarn using knitting two needles. Knitted fabrics
stretch.
KNITTING TOOLS
• Ball of yarn
• Pair of straight needles
• Gauge
• Stitch holders
• Stitch and row counters

ABREVIATIONS USED IN KNITTING

K = Knit
P =Purl
St(s) = Stitch (es)
Dec = Decrease
C/On = Cast on

3. CROCHETING
4. MACRAME

COLOUR APPLICATION TECHNIQUES

There are several ways of applying colour to fabric. One can use synthetic or commercial
dyes, paints and natural dyes to get the colour they want. The natural dye substance
includes beetroot, spinach, turmeric, bark and roots of some plants. The following
techniques can be used to apply colour to fabric.

This is a method where fabric is folded, twisted, tied, knotted or crumbled before being
dipped into a dye bath.

STEPS TO FOLLOW WHEN DYEING A FABRIC

a. TIE AND DYE

b. BATIK
c. PRINTING

WORKING SAFELY WITH DYES AND PAINTS

NEEDLE WORK TOOLS

CLASSES OF NEEDLE WORK TOOLS

A) Sewing tools
B) Cutting tools
C) Measuring tools
D) Marking tools
E) Ironing and pressing tools

A) CUTTING TOOLS

EXAMPLES: Dress making shears, pinking shears, scissors, embroidery

scissors, buttonhole scissors, a seam ripper, a thread cutter.

- Dress makers shears: have a bent handle. The angle of the lower blade allows
the fabric to lie flat while you cut.
- Pinking shears; these cut in a zigzag pattern, used on fray –resistant edges.
- Scissors; they are used for trimming frayed edges, light cutting, slashing and
clipping threads.
- Embroidery scissors; small with fine, well pointed blades. Used for embroidery
and for unpicking seams.
- Buttonhole scissors: are used for cutting hand worked buttonholes and can be
adjusted for cutting different sizes.
- A seam ripper: it is useful for undoing seams and cutting machine made
buttonholes.
- A thread cutter; this is a handy small tool, with pointed cutting blades for
snipping tacking stitches, clipping into corners and trimming loose frays.

B. MEASURING TOOLS

EXAMPLES: - A tape measure, a measuring card, an adjustable sewing gauge, a

hem guide, a ruler, a hem marker

- A measuring card; this is made of stiff cardboard. Used to measure seams and
hems,.
- An adjustable sewing gauge; this is a 15cm ruler with a sliding marker. It is used
for measuring short distances such as width of hems, pleats and tucks.
- hem guide; this is a marked, transparent, plastic guide on which different hem
depths for curved and straight hems are marked.
- Hem marker; this is a tool which is easy to use for marking hem.
C. MARKING TOOLS

EXAMPLES; - Tailors chalk, tracing wheel, dressmaker’s carbon paper, basting thread.

- tailor’s chalk; used for transferring pattern markings to fabrics.

- tracing wheel; used with dress maker’s carbon paper for transferring pattern
markings to fabric.
- dress maker’s carbon paper; used with tracing wheel to transfer pattern
markings
to fabric.
- Basting thread; soft basting cotton thread is useful for transferring pattern
marking onto fabric and for tacking.

D. IRONING AND PRESSING TOOLS

Pressing involves the use of steam with an up and down motion of the iron onto a
press cloth.
Ironing is the back and forth movement of an iron directly on fabric to remove
creases and to improve its appearance.

EXAMPLES: - the iron, the ironing board, the sleeve-board, the pressing cushion, the
seam roll, the ironing table, muslin press cloths.

- The sleeve board; it has a padded surface and a rounded point to help you slip a
sleeve over it.
- The pressing cushion; it is used for shaping and pressing shoulder seams, darts,
necklines and curves of side seams.
- The seam roll; this is used to press seams open and will prevent the seam edges
from leaving marks or shine on the right side of the garment.

E.SEWING TOOLS:

EXAMPLES: - Needles, pins, pincushion, thimble, sewing threads, a pair of

tweezers, a needle threader,

Needles
- Sharps ; are round –eyed needles used for most sewing.
- Crewel / embroidery; have a special long eye for easy threading
- Short needles; are for making short, fine stitches.
- Long needles: are best for tacking.
 Thimble
- It is used to protect the middle finger.

A pair of tweezers
- This is very useful for removing fluffy caused by tailor’s tacking and for
unpicking tacking stitches.

A needle threader
- This makes it easy to thread hand and machine needles.

The sewing machine

Parts of the sewing machine functions

1. The spool pin Holds the reel for the top thread.
2. The bobbin Is it to hold the underneath thread
3. The bobbin case It is used to hold the bobbin and regulates
the bottom thread tension when stitches
are formed.
4. The thread guides Guide the thread from the spool pin
through the take up lever to the tension
discs and eventually to the needle,
keeping it tight at the same time.
5. The tension discs Keep the thread taut and control the
feeding of the thread to the needle.
6. Take up lever Moves downwards to slacken the thread
while the stitch is being formed.
7. The needle Moves downwards to take the top thread
through the fabric with every stitch.
8. The presser foot Holds the fabric firmly in position during
stitching.
9. The presser foot lever Raises and lowers the presser foot
10. The feed dog Moves the fabric backwards and forwards
during sewing
11. The feed plate It provides a smooth surface for sewing
and is often marked with stitching guide
lines.
12. Slide plate Covers the bobbin case
13. Bobbin winder Used to wind thread around the bobbin
automatically
14. The stitch length regulator Sets the length of the stitches
15. The stitch width regular Sets the width of ziz zag stitches
16. The hand wheel Controls the up and down motion of the
needle and needle bar
17. The hand wheel It is used to stop or start the stitching
mechanism
18. The pressure regulator Controls the pressure of the pressure foot
on the feed dog
MACHINE FAULTS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

MACHINE CAUSE SOLUTIONS

FAULTS
Machine makes a loud - needle not threaded - Thread the
clicking noise as soon as correctly needle correctly
you start machining.
- Top tension may be too
- Adjust top
loose.
tension
Machine suddenly locks - Thread has matted - Remove the
and refuses to budge. around the bobbin. matted thread
around the
- Top tension is too loose.
bobbin.
- Adjust top
tension.
If the thread breaks at the - Threaded needle from - Do not pull the
eye of the needle. wrong side. fabric while you
are stitching.
- Inserted the needle
- Make sure that
incorrectly.
the needle is
straight and
correctly
inserted.
- Thread needle on
the correct side.
If the stitches are uneven. - You are probably - Do not pull the
pulling the fabric while fabric while you
you are stitching. are stitching.

If the needle breaks, - Sewing over pins - Do not stitch

bends or blunts easily. over pins.
- Pulling the fabric and
thread without lifting - Do not pull the
the presser foot. fabric and thread
without lifting
- Tension too tight.
the presser foot.
- Adjust tension
Puckered seam - Thread too thick for the - Use the correct
fabric. thread.
- Bobbin may be - Wind the bobbin
unevenly wound. correctly.
CARING FOR THE SEWING – MACHINE

• Cover the machine and store it in a dust free place.

• Clean and dust the machine regularly.
• Put the machine in a cool dry area.
• When you have finished sewing, place a piece of cloth under the presser foot to
protect it underneath, lower the presser foot and needle.
• Un plug the sewing machine from the electricity after use.

CARE FOR OTHER NEEDLEWORK TOOLS

• Put the needle work tools out of reach of children.

• Store them in a dry, cool place to prevent rust.
• Use tools for what they have been meant for.
• Clean and dust tools.