JS3 HOME ECONOMICS NOTE FOR FIRST TERM

WEEK 1 TEXTILE STUDY

CONTENT: Basic Terms Used In The Study Of Textiles

Fibre: is a very tiny or fine structure obtained from cotton plant, flax,wool
from sheep or filament from chemicals which are processed to obtain a
thread or yarn.

Yarn : is the name given to assembled fibres that are twisted together

Fabrics : is a material obtained through the joining together of yarn into one
piece through warp and weft threads crossing one another to bring about a
pattern or shape.

Warp : is a thread on a loom over and under which other threads are passed
to make clothes. In a loom warp is the vertical thread across the warp seam
down to the cloth seam.

Weft : are threads taken cross-wise over and under the lengthwise threads of
the warp. They form the width of fabrics.

Weaving : is the process of making fabrics by passing threads or strips

crosswise or over and under lengthwise ones by hand or on a machine.
Weaving takes place on a loom.

7. Knitting : is a process of making a fabric or garment by forming wool or silk

yarn into connecting loops either on a machine or by hand using long
needles. Knitting is used to make garment like sweaters and children’s
stockings.

Crocheting/crochet: is a method of making fabric by looping thread into a

pattern of connected stitches, using a hooked needle called a crochet-hook.
Crochet yarns are used for making handbags and wall hangings.
Fetting : is the rolling or compressing of wool, hair or fur into a thick cloth,
belt, hats or slippers.

Knotting : is the method in which two ends or pieces of ribbon, string, or cloth
are tied or twisted together for ornaments or decoration. It is usually
common on pressure articles or gift during occasions such as birthday or
wedding.
REASONS FOR TEXTILE STUDIES
1. It enables one to know how to treat textiles correctly during sewing.
2. It help us to understand the most suitable uses of each fabric
3. The experience in textiles study enables us to understand how to clean
our textile materials when they are dirty.
4. The study helps us to know how to take good care of our clothing
materials when they are not in use.
5. Textile study helps us to ensure and maintain the durability of our
fabrics.
6. It enables us to understand the properties and characteristics of textiles
such as the reaction to water, heat and fire.
7. Textiles study enables us make wise choices of fabrics for types of
garment we want to sew and wear.
8. We are able to know the fabrics or garments suitable for different
activities or occasions.
9. Textiles study enables us select fabrics that are suitable for our
environment and climatic conditions. For example, nylon fabrics may
not be suitable as wears in sunny and hot weather.
GENERAL USES OF TEXTILES
1. Textile fibres are used for making yarn and yarn are used for making different fabrics.
2. Fabrics are used for making different kinds of dresses for different occasions for children,
youth and adults eg evening dresses, travel wear, hot and wet weather clothes and clothes for

household uses.

3. Textiles are used for knitted materials such as sweaters, children stockings and blanket for
 warming the body.

4. Textiles are used for making ribbon of all types and crochet materials such as wall hangings.

5. Textiles are used for making linen such as pillow covers, bed sheets, upholstery materials and
 table cloths

6. They are used for making some thick heavy clothes and materials used as rugs for covering the
floor or for decoration.

7. They are used for making some home crafts such as tray covers, table covers and table mats.
8. Fibre glass yarn can be used to conduct electricity in the form of filament yarn.

9. They are used for making ropes for tying and twine for making various types of nets.

10. Treated textiles are used as hair attachments and wigs.

11. They are used in making hospital and clinic materials such as wool, lints and bandage for

dressing injuries, cuts and sores.

12. They are used in making dusters and other materials for cleaning wood and metal surfaces.
 13. They are used as window blinds and as stage covers in theatres where plays and shows are
performed.

14. Drapes for interior decorations in homes, banquet halls in hotels and other places for special

occasions.

WEEK 2 HOME ECONOMICS NOTE

JS 3 TEXTILE STUDY

CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES
CONTENTS :
FIBRES
|
NATURAL FIBRES MANMADE FIBRES

ANIMAL VEGETABLE CELLULOSE NON-CELLULOSE

1.WOOL - 1.COTTON 1.RAYON 1.NYLON
2.SILK 2.LINEN 2.ACETATE 2.POLYESTERS

COTTON
Cotton is a vegetable fibre. It is made from cotton balls (bolls) of cotton
plant. The cotton fibres surround the seeds of the cotton plant. Cotton
plant grows in Northern part of Nigeria and many other countries such as
Egypt, China, America, India, Asia etc.
Properties or characteristics of Cotton
1. It absorbs moisture quickly. It is therefore suitable for the tropics e.g
Nigeria
2. It is reasonably strong and durable.
3. It creases or wrinkles quickly, but irons very well.
4. It washes easily i.e. it is washable.
5. It is cool and comfortable to wear.
6. It is mothproof.
7. It can be affected by mildew in damp conditions.
8. White cotton can be bleached.
9. It can withstand friction or rubbing.
10. It can withstand hot water, so can be boiled.
11. It can be dyed easily.
12. It shrinks when washed.
13. Cotton fabric does not fray easily. It does not slip during sewing.
14. It is easy to sew.
15. Under the microscope, a cotton fibre appear twisted.
16. Cotton burns easily in flame, it gives off smell of burning paper.

LINEN
CONTENT : LINEN
Linen is a vegetable fibre it is got from the stem of flax plant. The flax plant
grows in such countries as France, Belgium, Russia, Northern Ireland, etc. it
is produced in Nigeria.

Properties or characteristics of linen

1. It is stronger than cotton. It increases in strength when wet.
2. It is absorbent and cool to wear.
3. It dries slowly.
4. It is a good conductor of heat, it takes heat away from the body.
5. It creases badly.
6. It washes well.
7. It frays badly and easily.
8. It can stand high temperature
9. It has natural lustre.
10. It is not fluffy. Linen is suitable as dish cloth or glass cloth since it
will leave no lint on glassware.
11. It wears well and is durable. It is strong.
12. Under the microscope, a linen fibre looks rounded with swellings
or nodes at intervals. It resembles bamboo rods.
13. It burns readily. It gives off smell of burning paper.
WOOL
Wool is an animal fibre. It is got from the hair or fleece of sheep. The hair of
camel, Angora rabbit or Angora goat can also be used. Wool is commonly
produced in temperate countries such as Britain, Australia, New Zealand,
Argentina, etc.
Properties or characteristics of wool
1. A wool fibre has a scaly appearance.
2. Wool is elastic and springy to touch, it does not crease
3. It makes a very absorbent fabric.
4. It is stronger when dry than when wet
5. Wool fabric has large number of air spaces between the fibres. It is
very warm to wear. It retains body heat.
6. It absorbs moisture very well without appearing damp.
7. It felts or shrinks easily especially when treated with hot water, that
is it stops stretching and reduce in size.
8. It is readily affected by bleach.
 9. It is attacked by clothes moth and other insects.
10. It gives the smell of burning feathers when wet.

WEEK 4
CONTENT: SILK
Silk is an animal fibre. It is produced by silk worm. Silk is produced chiefly in
France, Italy, China and Japan.

Characteristics or properties of silk

1. It is a very strong fibre.
2. It is smooth and fine. It is beautiful and has natural lustre.
3. It is springy or elastic.
4. It is crease resistant i.e will withstand creasing.
5. It is warm to touch.
6. It absorbs moisture easily.
7. It is easily dyed.
 8. It is an expensive fibre
9. It is weak when wet
10. It hangs or drape well
11. It gives a smell of burning feather when burnt.
MAN-MADE OR SYNTHETIC FIBRE
Man-made fibres can be classified into two main headings:
1. The cellulose-based fibres: made from cellulose which is obtained from
cotton linters or wood pulp eg viscose rayon, acetate.
2. Non-cellulose man-made or synthetic fibres: made entirely from
mineral substances such as coal and petroleum, eg nylon, polyester,
acrylics, etc.
VISCOSE RAYON
Viscose rayon is made by treating wood pulp or cotton linters with certain
chemicals. It is therefore called regenerated cellulose fibre. There are other
types of rayon such as cuprammonium rayon.

CHARACTERISTICS OR PROPERTIES OF VISCOSE RAYON

1. It is absorbent.
2. It is soft and drapes well.
3. It is not very strong especially when wet.
4. It creases badly.
5. It is cool to wear.
6. It has smooth surface.
7. It resembles silk in appearance only.
8. It dyes well.
9. It is not easily attacked by mildew
10. It is mothproof.
WEEK 5

CONTENT : SEWING MACHINE

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES
There are different types and makes of sewing machines. They may differ in
type and number of kinds of stitches they make. They can also differ in the
way they can be operated. The following are common types of sewing
machines:
HAND SEWING MACHINE
This is simple, it is operated just with hand. It requires to be placed on a
table.

TREADLE SEWING MACHINE

This is operated with the feet. The worker has both hands free for guiding
the work. It normally has a special stand.
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
This is operated with the aid of an electric motor. Some hand and treadle
machines can be easily converted to electric sewing machine by using the
electric motor.

Some machines make just straight stitches, others can make both straight
and zigzag stitches.
PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Machine part functions
1. Balance wheel 1. It is turned either forward or backward to
make the machine sew
2. It raises and lowers the needle
2. Presser foot 1. It holds the fabric firmly in place for
 stitching
3.Presser foot lifter 1. It is used to raise and lower the presser foot.
It is at the back of the machine
4.Feed-dog 1. it holds the fabric tight against the presser
foot
2. It pulls the fabric along for stitching as it
moves up and down. It is a tooth-like piece of
metal just under the presser foot. It works up
and down through the slots in the throat plate
5. throat plate Provides slots or openings through which the
needle projects downward and the feed-dog
upward
6. spool pin This holds the spool of the thread
7.thread guides 1. these support the thread from one part of
the machine to the other
2. They prevent the thread from twisting.
8. needle clamp It is an attachment for needle
9. stitch regulator It is used to shorten or lengthen the stitches on
10.bobbin the machine
It is used for winding the thread which goes in
11. bobbin case the lower part of the machine
12. stop motion screw It is the case that holds the bobbin
This is loosened to disconnect the needle and
stop it from moving when the machine is
13. tension discs operated. It is at the balanced wheel
This regulates the tightness of the thread as it
forms the stitch

GUIDELINES FOR CHOOSING A SEWING MACHINE

1. Consider similar types of sewing machines by different manufacturers.
2. Compare their servicing arrangements, prices and any other necessary
information.
3. Consider the weight of the machine. Very heavy ones may be too
difficult to carry about.
 4. Consider the money available. Buy the best your money can afford.
5. Before paying for the machine, check to ensure that you have the
instruction manual or handbook, all the accessories and spare parts
that accompany the machine.
6. Before carrying away the machine, it is necessary to have the dealer
demonstrate to you how it should be operated. Then try it out
yourself.
MINOR PROBLEMS IN MACHINE STITCHING
1. Regulating the thread tension-for perfect stitching the tension of the
upper and lower threads should be equal. The needle and bobbin
threads will be locked at the centre of the thickness of the fabric.
Imperfect stitching occurs when one tension(needle or bobbin) is
stronger than the other
1. When the upper tension is too tight, loops appear on the upper
surface of the work
2. When the lower tension is too tight, loops appears on the lower
surface of the work
3. When both threads are too loose floating stitches appear
4. When upper and lower threads are too tight, the fabric will become
wrinkled. The thread will break easily.
To regulate the tension
1. When the upper thread is too tight, loosen the tension disc
2. When the upper thread is too loose, tighten the tension disc
3. When the under thread is too tight, lift out the bobbin case and loosen
the screw of the tension spring leaf outside the bobbin case with screw
driver
4. If under thread is too loose tighten the screw of the bobbin case
2. SKIPPED STITCHES- this may be caused by:
1. A bent or blunt needle
2.A needle of incorrect length
3. An improperly set needle
4. a needle not suitable to size of thread

3. Puckers in fabrics- this may be caused by:

 1. A blunt needle
2. Very tight tension

4. Breaking of machine needle: this may be caused by:

1. improper setting of needle
2. pulling fabric without raising needle
3. sewing over a pin on fabric
4. Sewing over many layers of fabric
Constant breaking of thread-this may be caused by :
1. bobbin thread different from upper thread
2.Tension of thread too tight
3.Use of poor quality thread
4.Incorrect threading of machine
5.Uneven winding of the bobbin
6.Bobbin thread too full

SEWING MACHINE ACCESSORIES

Sewing machine accessories are attachments that can be used with the
machine. These accessories can be bought with the machine or
separately. They are in-built in some machines. They can be used for
various sewing processes such as hemming, sewing on buttons, making
button holes, attaching zippers etc. The following are some of the
accessories:
1. Zipper foot- used for sewing close to raised edges. It is therefore
used for inserting zip, applying cording and piping trim.
HAMMER FOOT- is used for stitching a narrow hem without basting or
pressing

BUTTON HOLE MAKER- is used for making button holes

GATHER ING FOOT-is used for making gathering stitches

EDGE STITCHING-used for making embroidery. Different embroidery

attachments make different designs
WEEK 6
CONTENT : ARRANGEMENT OF FULLNESS
Fullness in clothing construction means the provision of extra allowance in
the garment. This fullness can be created or controlled using darts, tucks,
gathers, easing and pleats.
Darts
Darts are tapered folds of fabric. They are stitched on the wrong side of a
garment section. Darts can be straight, curved or double pointed.
Uses of darts
1. They control fullness
2. They turn fabric into shapes to fit the human figure
3. They help to give a good fitting and shape to the finished garment
To make a dart
1. Mark the pattern lines properly
2. Fold the material with the right sides facing and pattern lines
together or matching
3. Pin and tack the dart along the pattern lines
4. Stitch from the broad end
5. Knot the ends of the thread
6. Press the dart to one side of the stitching
7. If the material is too thick and does not fray, cut along the fold to
within 2cm of the point. Then open the turns.
Tucks
Tucks are special stitched folds made in garments. They are stitched for all
or part of the length. The fold is formed on the right side of the garment.
When tucks are partly stitched, they are called dart tucks.
To make a tuck
1. Mark the lines for the tuck
2. Pin the tack tuck into place
3. Stitch the tuck into place
4. Remove tacking
5. Press each tuck lightly along the stitching line from the wrong side of
the fabric
Uses of tucks
1. To reduce or control fullness
 2. To provide extra width
3. To decorate a garment, as a style feature
4. They can be sewn in the skirt, to be lengthened later, eg on children’s
clothes to provide for growth.
5. They can be used to hide a join in the fabric
Gathers
Gathers are small, soft folds made in garments.
They are commonly used in:
1. Children’s clothes
2. Making lightweight skirts, and
3. Some sleeve caps, frills, etc
Gathers can be made either with hand or machine
Guidelines for making gathers
1. When a long piece of gatherings is to be done, divide the length
into sections.
2. Leave gathering threads until the final stitching is completed
Gathering by hand
1. Mark the stitching line
2. Use long double thread
3. Sew a line of running stitches on the right side along the marked
stitching line
4. Sew a second line of running stitches 6mm away in the turning
5. Leave thread free at each end for the gathering
6. Ease or draw up the work to the correct length
7. Fasten off with several firm stitches at each end.
Gathering by machine
1. Mark the stitching line
2. Set the machine tension for gathering. Use the longest stitch.
3. Machine two rows of evenly spaced stitching:
a. On the stitching line
b. 6mm away towards the raw edge.
4. Ease or draw up the gathers to the required length
Shirring
This is produced with several rows of gatherings. It may be decorated with
smocking or other embroidery patterns.
OPENINGS AND FASTENINGS
Openings are features in garments. They help us to put on and take off our
clothes. There are different kinds of openings. They can also be used to
decorate the garment.

Points to consider when making openings

1. The opening should be suitable for the position on the garment.
2. It should be suitable for the texture of the fabric eg continuous wrap
opening for light materials.
3. It should be long enough to serve its purpose. A very short opening will
result in strain and tear.
4. It should be as neat and invisible as possible.
5. It should be placed in a position where it will be easy to fasten.
6. The opening should lie flat when fastened.
7. The seams of the openings should be strong especially at its base to
avoid tear.
Types of openings
There are different ways of finishing openings. These ways give the
openings their names. These include continuous, bound and slit
openings.
Continuous wrap opening(also called continuous strip opening)
 This is a short opening. It can be fastened with hook and eye, buttons
and buttonholes and press studs.

Continuous wrap opening is suitable for

1. Very fine and light materials or fabrics
2. Side openings on pyjamas, shorts, a shirt and wrist openings on long
sleeves
3. Children’s clothes and night dresses.
To make:
1. Slit or cut the openings to the required length
2. Cut out piece of fabric twice the length of the opening plus 1.5cm and
twice the finished width of the wrap plus turning (5-8cm wide). Match
grain with that of the edge to be bound.
3. Pull the edges of the opening of the garment apart so that they lie in a
straight line.

Faced slit opening

 The faced slit opening can be used for:
1. Front or back neck openings.
2. Wrist cuff openings on long sleeves set into a band
3. It can also be used as decoration. Fastenings usually used on the slit
opening are loop and button, hook and eye, link and button.
FASTENINGS
Most garments need openings. Fastenings are devices or things
attached to the openings.

Uses of fastenings
1. Like the openings, fastenings allow the garment to be put on and
to be taken off.
2. They keep the openings in position whilst the garment is been
worn.
3. They protect the openings from strain or stretching.
4. They can also be used for decoration
Types of fastenings
1. Zips: these are useful on blouses, dresses, jackets, trousers etc
Press studs: are used where there is less strain

Hooks and eye/bar: are used where there is strain to prevent gapings. It can
also be used to fasten the end of a neck opening.
Buttons and loops: these are used on openings without a wrap

Buttons and buttonhole: these can be used on opening with a wrap

Eyelets and cords: these are used to fasten faced slit openings on blouses and
children dresses
Points to consider in choosing a fastener
1. The type of opening to be fastened
2. The type of fabrics eg light materials
3. The use of the fastening eg for decoration
4. The part of the garment to be fastened eg cuff or neckline or waist band
of skirt
5. The style of the garment. It can be concealed i.e. not visible or it can be
for decoration
6. The fastenings should be washable or dry cleanable
The fastening should match the garment in colour eg zips and buttons