Convergence
Convergence
vive
r o ra. otra.
a h
ish mal arekh.
man nish p p
s i ngh li. ma manu . dilee
it h . r
a r amj ma ko valaya p singh i kuma .
p e j a
d a na. pta. se ajaj. j prata an. rav harm
n sar av gu jata b rajesh lay cl veek s satish
ar u au r . s u l . . p . v i ra . un
h. v ma. g kumar arakka anand arora alhot h. var a.
rek ar a k
a n u pa eep sh i. ritu . yusuf i. bab manish nish m u pare sharm u
dil r kash hilpa raman ingh a p t
laya
.m
gh. i. m a. man . dilee shi. ri a.
a s i s ohl y a
a j . jj va tap sin vi kum . little malin ramjit ema k jj vala singh mar k e shilp i
j a r a a a . a s e . a p k u t l in
a ba h pr an. arm upt a. p ta. ajaj rat avi . lit mal
. s ujat . rajes lay cl eek sh atish g sardan av gup ujata b ajesh p clan. r harma gupta. ramjit
r l p iv s r s r s a
uma arakka nand. ora. v otra. varun a. gau mar. kkal. d. play iveek satish ana. p . seema
tu k f a r h . m ku ra n .v . d a j.
s h i. ri . yusu . baba nish a sh mal parekh p shar . ritu usuf a ba ana arora lhotra un sar v gupt a baja
i i r
m a r ka shilpa aman gh ma . mani manu . dilee kash ilpa. y ani. ba anish ish ma kh. va gaura . sujat rajesh
r i r e . r .
i ku ttle ini sin hl ya. gh ma e sh am hm an ar ma ma kal lay
rav ma. li a. mal ramjit ema ko jj vala tap sin avi ku . littl alini r it sing ohli. m manu p p shar itu ku f arak and. p ra.
r t a e a r a j . e r n
sha h gup ana. p pta. s bajaj. sh pr clan. sharm upta. m param eema k alaya h. dile kashi. a. yusu baba a sh aro ra.
s u a je y g v
na. upta. s jaj. jj ap sing umar e shilp mani. i
sati n sard urav g sujat al. ra d. pla viveek atish man malho un
t
u . k n . s rda g ba t ik l ra gh
var ma. ga kumar f arak a ana arora otra. run sa aurav ujata sh pra n. rav a. litt alini jit sin anish kh. var a.
r b h a s e a m m m e m
sha i. ritu a. yusu ani. ba manish sh mal ekh. v rma. g umar. al. raj lay cl k shar upta. param ohli. nu par p shar tu
h p i r a k k p g . k e i
kas e shil ni ram singh. i. man nu pa eep sh i. ritu f arak nand. a. vivee satish rdana . seema aya. ma . dile ashi. r uf
l i l a l a l h k s
litt a. mal ramjit a koh aya. m gh. di ar kash a. yusu baba a h aror otra. arun s v gupta j. jj va p sing umar lpa. yu ni.
t a m l p . s h a a k i
gup ana. p ta. see j. jj va tap sin vi kum le shil amani mani sh mal rekh. v . gaura ata baj h prat . ravi ttle sh i rama gh
d a a a t r h i a j s n i n
sar av gup ta baj esh pr clan. r a. lit alini it sing li. man anu pa sharm ar. su l. raje ay cla rma. l a. mali jit sin li.
r a j m m j m l a m h
gau ar. suj al. ra d. play k shar upta. param a koh laya. m . dileep itu ku arakka and. p eek sh h gupt a. para ma ko ya.
k e g . m a r n v s e
ku f ara a ana a. viv satish rdana ta. see aj. jj v p singh kashi. . yusuf baba a ora. vi a. sati sardan pta. se . jj vala ap
m k n e
u b r . p j r r r j t
yus ani. ba h aro hotra run sa rav gu ata ba h prata i kuma shilpa amani. nish a alhot varun rav gu a baja sh pra n.
is l a j s e a . u t e a
ram h man sh ma ekh. v a. gau ar. su l. raje an. rav . littl alini r ngh m nish m arekh ma. ga r. suja l. raj play cl ek
i r m m a l a i a p r a a e
sing li. man anu pa p shar itu ku arakk play c sharm upta. m amjit s hli. m manu ep sha u kum arakk nand. ra. viv ra.
e f . g r o . e it f a
koh laya. m h. dile ashi. r a. yusu anand viveek atish na. pa eema k valaya h. dil shi. r . yusu . baba ish aro alhot h.
k a . s a s g a a i m k
jj va ap sing umar e shilp i. bab arora otra. n sard upta. ajaj. jj tap sin umar k shilp raman h man anish u pare ep
t k tl n h u g b a k le i g m n le
pra . ravi
m a . lit i rama manish sh mal h. var aurav sujata esh pr . ravi a. litt malin jit sin ohli. ya. ma gh. di ar
n n i k j n . m
cla k shar . mali singh i. man u pare rma. g umar. al. ra ay cla sharm gupta . para eema k jj vala ap sin vi kum a.
e a l a k k l a s jaj. h prat lan ra sharm h
vive h gupt ramjit a koh ya. man eep sh . ritu f arak and. p viveek satish ardan upta.
i s a m a i l i u n . . s g a ba es c k is
sat ana. p ta. see . jj val gh. d r kash pa. yus baba a arora hotra arun aurav . sujat al. raj d. play . vivee ra. sat un
d j n a l . l v g ar rakk an arora lhot
sar av gup ta baja atap si vi kum tle shi amani manish ish ma rekh. rma. u m a n . v ar .
r a r a a uk fa a h ma kh ma
gau ar. suj jesh pr lan. ra ma. lit alini singh li. man anu p eep sh hi. rit . yusu ni. bab manis anish u pare p shar tu
a c r m h m il s a a n e i
kum kal. r . play ek sha upta. ramjit ma ko alaya. gh. d ar ka e shilp i ram singh ohli. m ya. ma . dile ashi. r pa.
k e g a e n m n t a h k
ara anand ra. viv satish ana. p pta. se jaj. jj v atap si avi ku a. littl . mali aramji eema k jj val p sing umar le shil ini
a . d a r a p s . a vi k a. litt . mal it
bab ish aro hotra n sar rav gu jata b jesh pr clan. sharm h gupt ana. ta. a bajaj h prat
l u u u a s d gup t s n ra m ta j
man ish ma h. var ma. ga mar. s kal. r d. play viveek a. sati un sar aurav . suja l. raje lay cla k shar sh gup . param ma
a n r e k a r k u r a k a n r a . t r a r . g m a r k a . p v e e a t i a n a s e e
a h n o v a k d i s
m up ep s ritu suf a ba a aro alh kh. arm u ku ara nan ra.
v
tra
.
sar
d pta
.
jaj.
man h. dile kashi. pa. yu ni. ba anish nish m u pare eep sh hi. rit . yusuf baba a h aro alho arun rav gu jata ba sh
l a m a l s . s m v u e
sing kumar tle shi ni ram singh hli. m a. man gh. di ar ka shilpa amani mani anish arekh. ma. ga ar. su al. raj ay
i t i y m e r h m k l
rav ma. li a. mal ramjit ema ko jj vala tap sin avi ku . littl alini it sing ohli. m manu p p shar itu ku f arak and. p ra.
r t a e a r a m j . e r n
sha h gup ana. p pta. s bajaj. sh pr clan. sharm upta. param eema k alaya h. dile kashi. a. yusu baba a sh aro sh
s u a je y g s v g p . i i
sati n sard urav g sujat al. ra d. pla viveek atish dana. upta. ajaj. jj ap sin kumar e shil amani h man i. man
ar.
u . k n . s r g b t l r g l
var ma. ga kumar f arak a ana arora otra. run sa aurav ujata sh pra n ravi a. litt alini jit sin a koh
r b h a
sha i. ritu a. yusu ani. ba anish sh mal ekh. v rma. g umar. al. raj lay cl k shar upta. param a. seem
s e a m
m m
h p m i r
kas e shil ni ram singh i. man nu pa eep sh i. ritu f arak nand. a. vivee satish rdana v gup
a k k p
r i t
g
u ku . t
i.
l i l a l a a a
litt a. mal ramjit a koh aya. m gh. di ar kash a. yusu baba h aror otra. arun s . gaur
t a m l
gup ana. p ta. see j. jj va tap sin vi kum le shil aman mani sh mal rekh. v sharm
d p a a a t
p
r
i .
h
s
i
h
r k ash a
sar av gu ta baj esh pr clan. r a. lit lini it sing li. man anu p dileep
a
a
kum
r a j m m a j
gau ar. suj al. ra d. play k shar gupta. param a koh laya. m singh.
k e m
v i
ra
. a
kum f arak a anan a. vive satish rdana ta. see aj. jj v ratap
u b r . p j p
yus ani. ba h aro hotra run sa rav gu ata ba ajesh an
is l
ram h man sh ma ekh. v a. gau ar. su kkal.
a j r y cl
g i r m m a d . pla
n a n p a a r u r n
si li. m anu ep s
h itu
k
suf
a
ana
koh laya. m h. dile ashi. r lpa. yu i. b
aba
v a i n g r k s h i a n
jj s a m
tap kum ttle i ra
pra . ravi ma. li alin
a. m
convergence
n r
cla k sha u p t
vive
e sh g
sati
o t ra.
h
mal
Curated by
Sushma Bahl & Vidyun Singh
24 to 30 November 2010
Visual Arts Gallery, Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road, New Delhi 110003
3 to 30 December 2010
Art Positive Gallery, F-213/B, Lado Sarai, Old MB Road, New Delhi 110030
www.bcah.in
art & design
Baba Anand Gaurav Gupta
To celebrate the advent of a new season, and also the New Year, I am
delighted to bring to you our new exhibition, ‘Convergence- Art & Fashion’.
A step ahead of our artistic endeavours of the past, the present show is
our attempt to bring to forth the symbiotic relationship shared by Fashion
& Art. The two domains though reflect a contrasting picture, where
one focuses on functionality and market and the other on unrestrained
creativity, the cross boundary assimilation and collaboration between the
two can not be negated in today’s scenario. Neither of the two is restricted
by their own boundaries. Works by fashion designers finding place in
museums & artists creating artworks that are no longer appreciated only
for their aesthetic merit but also for the utilitarian value, keeping in tune
with India’s classical & tribal history of “functionality in art”, are a norm
rather than an exception today.
I am thankful to the artists and designers for their beautiful & unique
creations and also to the curators, Sushma Bahl & Vidyun Singh, for
bringing in their expertise and experience in their respective field, that
was truly helpful in realising this grand project.
It has been a pleasure to work towards this beautiful union and I feel proud
to share with you this refreshing and unique collection of Art.
Cheers!
Anu Bajaj
Art A-Part
Sushma Bahl
Is art a part of life or does art, in any which way, stand apart from other forms of expression? Though contentious to categorize
art in either grouping, broadly speaking as a branch of philosophy, it deals with constantly evolving notions of aesthetics
and rasa (taste) or varied ways of seeing and perceiving life and the surrounding world with creativity as the central axis.
The distinction between art and craft or between fine art and design/ fashion/applied art is an equally disputed territory. All
creative endeavors, in any form of visual art or the performing art or literature, epitomize a given time and space. Artists of all
genres and designs- painters, sculptors, designers, illustrators, craftsmen, visualizers, architects, fashion designers and new
media practitioners, individuals or groups, in a juxtaposition of art and artifacts represent the vision, vitality and plurality of
the cultural matrix in which they exist. Resulting from a cross fertilization of ideas and experiences, immersed in aesthetics as
well as some form of functional value- may be just visual or sensual stimulation, each art form with its distinct characteristics,
in whatever genre, color, style or media; involves cerebral and emotional inputs as well as skills, materials and a play of creative
energies as a complete human activity.
The Indian Context
Intrinsically rooted in classical, tribal and folk forms that have traversed through the religious, sacred, ritual, decorative,
emotional and functional; Indian art as living phenomena in a kaleidoscopic variety has continued to engage with life and
society. Drawing on sound philosophical principals of Shilpasatras and in a multitude of expressions, sacred on the one hand
and courtly on the other, it has retained its aesthetic appeal while also maintaining its functional role. Artists continue to
perform important roles as communicators and harbingers of change, providing recreational services and rendering works
that illustrate popular ballads, epics and love stories and produce usable objects including garments that adorn the body. Arts
add colour to life, document our history and enhance the environment.
Shringar as one of the navrasa depicted with finesse in elaborately adorned sculptures and temple deities or beautifully
painted manuscripts and miniatures, illustrate how fashion has been integral to India artistic practice. Historical accounts
and literary texts of the past describe in captivating details the rustle of pure silks as the rich passed by. Renowned for their
colors and patterns, Indian textiles in fine muslin and handloom fabrics received royal patronage while they also continued
to be accessible to the commoners who wear them in elegantly fashioned folds often unstitched such as saree for women
and dhoti or pagri for men. Elaborately embroidered and embellished costumes, intricately designed jewelry and decorative
patterns on hands face and body have been an integral part of the wearables across socio-economic strata, regions, age, sex
and communities, each for a specific occasion and in a distinct style.
Re-fashioning art
In this ever changing cycle of time and constantly evolving world nothing remains the same. India and its art and culture
have also undergone an unprecedented face lift in the recent years given its place in a more globalised and open scenario. In
a free flow across forms, media, materials, styles and techniques, a refreshingly hybrid genre of art, in a variable fusion of
visual and performing arts including painting, sculpture, installation, design, fashion, architecture, photography, video and
new media, clearly impacted by all pervasive Bollywood films, pop culture, kitsch seems to have refashioned art in its new
avatar. Besides decorative and spiritual themes, wider issues of human interest such as sexuality, feminist themes, regional
identity, corruption, violence, world events, environment and human rights issues are addressed in re-fashioned art that can
be beautiful or/and beastly. In terms of scale and ambition too, it exudes a new vigour and confidence. There is daring, depth
and glamour for provocation, reflection and pleasure. In an inclusive approach the old and the new co-exist as canonical
texts such as vastushastras, silpashastras and Kamasutra are studied and practiced with as much fervor as innovation and
experimentation in digital technology and new media.
Alankar or embellishment for the self and one’s surroundings is a natural human desire, an essential element of visual
language and an inseparable component of aesthetics. It is by analyzing the costumes, decorative tradition and the motifs and
iconography used by a particular group in a given age and time that art historians re- construct a trajectory as a testament to
its socio-cultural milieu. Though often hyped more for its glamour value, fashion in fact is a creative endeavor akin to fine art.
Fashion artists work with colour, material, texture, form and design while painters, sculptors and other visual artists work with
similar materials and concepts often in an abstract realm. In a significant judgment the Bombay High Court recently endorsed
that fashion designers are in fact artists. Fashion artists add to the beauty and visual appeal of garments and their wearers
and designers enhance the utility, efficiency, look and value of what they create–a decorative piece or a usable object. Visual
artists create to articulate their own and others’ dreams, fears, ideas and events and in the process enhance the environment.
All artists take forward the age old concept of working together in groups and across disciplines learning from each other in
the process, as did the sthapatis or architects who excelled in building design, or the master artist who worked in karkhanas
(studios/workshops) with rangamez or colourist, the calligrapher, the framer and the binder.
Convergence
The two creative domains though inextricably intertwined in their search for aesthetics and a visual language also incorporate
some special characteristics distinct for each. While fashion artists appear to play more vigorously with materials and
premeditated designs and for functionality as required by the rasik or the market; artists seem to focus primarily on their
inner urge and spontaneity to get across to the viewer or collector often relegating the functionality of art to the background.
Creativity and ability to handle material and shape ideas into form seem to fall in between, equally significant for both
groups of artists. The exhibition is a platform that provides the space and scope for each group to tread across the fence, to
experiment and re-play their creativity with functionality. Each of the ten invited visual artists create a fashion garment or
object that adorns the body besides creating an art work in their known oeuvre, while the ten invited fashion artists play with
unrestrained creativity to make a two or three dimensional or virtual art work besides designing and presenting a garment in
their signature style.
In the process, each group goes back and forth, as they celebrate and experiment with cross fertilization of ideas experiences
and practices, away from any pressure of commissions and the market, just like the dreamy days of initial learning and
training. The mixed group of artists including some renowned names and some younger cutting edge ones, straddle across
the genres to present us with paintings, photographs, sculptures, installations, videos and interactive art as well as fashion
garments, food and functional objects in varied media and scales on this inclusive and cohesive forum. Convergence of art
and fashion makes a feast for the eye, mind and body. The exhibition features a range of fashion garments and accessories,
especially created for the show, that adorn the body and there are paintings, sculptures, installations and new media art that
challenge the intellect and add to the aesthetics. It encompasses various designed objects as well as artifacts of utilitarian
merit.
Amongst the ten visual artists in the exhibition there is a large fiberglass brightly coloured sculpture of foot tapping legs of
a young girl by Dileep Sharma. A symbol of modernity and pop culture, she is seductively poised as her mini skirt flares up
in the air to bring the exuberant pink of the inside out and show off her yellow panty with precisely painted imagery in place,
playing with its own shadow on the shiny plate below. A resident of Bollywood city, Kunwar ji then goes back to his roots
in Rajasthan to work with craftsmen and get his intricate colourful imagery of provocatively playful female legs in variable
posturing engraved in woodblocks for hand block printing on his fashion art piece, the evergreen saree, in georgette.
In a similar pop and Bollywood culture influenced streak appears art of Baba Anand. Shuttling between the East and West, his
artwork as an installation of 22 framed boxes that he has been working on since 2004, are painted in glossy laboratory white
like the ones in a science laboratory. There is a clear imprint of his bohemian and open mindscape and his global exposure
in the imagery and forms of his work. The ‘Life Boxes’ with painted mixed media imagery glued to the wood- threads, grub,
wheels, money, luxury brands, advertisements, slogans, wax dolls, photos etc, create a collage to fathom the “culture of
consumption and consumption of culture… a clinical examination of Western society, or rather, looking to one side or the
other of the Atlantic-- to France or the United States --the first artistic anthropology of the habits of the Global Village at the
dawn of the 21st Century” to quote Jerome Neutre. This trained fashion designer, whose current practice engages more with
fine art works in a very Bollywood and kitsch influenced heavily embellished oeuvre, comes to the fore in his rock star gold
jacket specially designed and made for the exhibition as his functional and wearable exhibit.
A contrast of sorts is offered in Satish Gupta’s ‘Shwe De Gong’ meditative creations in Zen spirit that were inspired by his
recent visit to Myanmar. The icon featured in the painted canvas is also the central figure in his fabric creation for adorning
the body. The shawl in silk and wool fabric specially created by ‘INDIA INDIA’ and its skilled crafts persons bring the artist’s
vision to life in this maroon and black handmade appliqué worked shawl with Buddha images superimposed to compliment
the painting. The two together follow the grid of Cosmic Matrix series that has continued to engage and inspire the artist’s
creative energies for some years now. And on the symbiotic relationship between art and fashion the artist believes, “…
creativity cannot be restricted to any one medium. What is expressed is of value through whichever medium the artist chooses
for a particular work”.
The engagement with iconography appears in a different frame in artist Seema Kohli’s painting that makes a fine blend of
myth and feminist energy with a poetic elegance. Her densely painted canvas filled with nature and semi anthromorphic forms
and a sensuous feminine figure prominently placed centrally, recreate mythology associated with the concept of procreation
‘Hiranya garbha’ and the ‘Golden Womb’. To reflect on a woman’s search and urge for beauty she presents a complete attire
in her fashion creation with inputs from fashion designer Poonam Bajaj. A hand embroidered and richly embellished jacket,
a digitally printed silk Lycra body suit to wear under it and a suede embroidered clutch bag to go with it- together connect up
well with the feminist streak in her art.
In a widely different mode appear the abstract renditions of Paris based artist Sujata Bajaj whose work remains firmly rooted
in the soil of the land of her birth but exudes a touch of the West, where she is based now, in its marked finesse. Her richly
coloured canvas covered from all ends with evocative abstract impressionist markings of panchtatva or the five natural
elements accompanied by calligraphic, textual and textural interventions looks bright and alive drawing in the viewer. She
complements it with a clutch handbag in leather made by an Italian designer which has a small canvas strip hand painted by
Sujata built into its cover. Easy to carry and use, the handbag makes an interesting companion to the painting on the wall.
Manu Parekh known for his still life and Banaras series of paintings turns to Lord Ganesha for this exhibition. The painted
canvas featuring Ganesha in red yellow and green has orange and pink smeared all over his benevolent face, broad forehead,
long winding laddoo holding trunk, pot belly and multiple hands. The bright eyed generous God presents a picture perfect
lovable image with an interesting touch of the artist’s unmistakable signature style. His rendition of the lord in a smaller work
on cardboard is beautifully turned into a locket given his experience as design consultant for the Weavers’ Service Center and
then the Handicraft and Handloom Export Corporation of India. The locket strung together as a necklace makes a wearable
piece possibly for special occasions, may be for invoking the Lord for good luck!
Landscape is at the centre of all that Paramjit Singh creates. His gentle explorations in subtle colours with laboriously textured
thick brush work on canvas re-call quiet pictures of silent valleys, flowing streams and water bodies, rising sun or moonlit
nights, hills and mountain- scapes, walkways in-between tall trees, thick forests or streetscapes in autumn covered with falling
leaves. The painting in the exhibition explores a similar other worldly dream scape beyond the surrounding chaotic urban
world in a haven of its own. The master artist then works to select a section of his painting transposing it into digital imagery
that gets printed onto fabric as a Stoll, usable by any individual with taste of any age and of either sex. The artist’s remarkable
ability to work across media and domains is exemplified in the two different creations on show in the exhibition.
Ravi Kumar Kashi, who has specialized in making his own handmade paper and working with varied materials and in
different genres, has created a series of human torsos made out of cotton, jute fibre and paper. Reflecting on the times
we live in the visual culture of media re-presentations and hype; have recurrently featured in his ‘non-linear’ artistic career
that encompasses collage, moulded paper sculptures, assemblages, paintings, photography and new media work. The torso
or armory of ‘Doubting Thomas’ is linked to his fashion art wearable T shirts aptly titled ‘Inside Out’. There is an uncanny
resemblance between the two. The T shirts with images of the inner body parts painted in water proof ink and the torso both
reveal what we hide by wearing clothes or covering up. The work is also a comment on the fragility of human body and the
concept of regeneration.
Yusuf Arakkal an artist working across media and disciplines appreciates the bond and inter dependence between art and
design and I quote, “We all know before fashion designing became specialized it was artists who created fashion and designed
costumes. For example Michelangelo had designed the beautiful out fits for the Swiss guards at Vatican that are still worn by
them”. Fashion designers or fashion artists just like visual artists work to bring high aesthetics in their creations. Yusuf has
painted two canvases that feature familiar wearable garments a jacket and trousers. The red hanger and the red line running
through each of the two canvases bring a painterly touch to animate the two canvases. His light blue shirt in soft denim,
adorning an image of his work from Child series of paintings, makes a wearable fashion garment with unisex appeal.
The role that models play in giving the designed fashion wear its full glory is often limited to their appearance in ramp walks
and glossy magazines or advertising world. Young Viveek Sharma features a European model that he met during a recent
residency in Germany in his oil on canvas on display in the show. He then cooks a meal and prepares the table showing
the model waiting at the window and titling the whole installation ‘Who is coming for dinner tonight?’ In this in-your-face
interactive art work that brings the fashion design and art domains together in a performative mode, the artist makes a telling
comment about the uncertainty in a model’s life. It is also a reflection on fragility of human relationships in contemporary
society. Another dimension is added to the work given that the ‘Zanana Table Chair’ a part of the installation, is the creation
of designer duo Sahil and Sarthak who used local material and ethnic wear to make this ultra modern luxury furniture.
The ten fashion artists likewise play with their creative energies to embody art beside design and fashion within its folds.
While Ritu Kumar takes to paint, brush and mixed media featuring her love of the fabric and colours, along with an elaborately
textured ornate costume; JJ Valaya takes recourse to photography to document his long time association with a form in
addition to his signature fashion creation. In a mix and match of everyday materials and street culture Manish Arora inspired
by Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein creates his own flamboyant and contemporary design while his name sake from Mumbai
Manish Malhotra known for his designs for many of the Bollywood film stars, showcases a couple of his ornate creations.
Gaurav Gupta juxtaposes his garment with an installation to explore “the blurred line between the accepted norm of functional
and non functional”. Himanshu Dogra and Play Clan give us “an experiential walkthrough showing different processes and
development of an art work from concept to print....as a garment, a painting or a utility item….” Malini Ramani’s garment
and installation with a video; flesh out the ambience that puts the two into their context. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s sculpture
of a meditating man made out of scissors and his men’s wear suit worn by one of his associates both illustrate his love for
simplicity with substance. Shilpa Chavan or little Shilpa as she is more popularly known styles a hat and an installation
made with humble material sourced from local street market to turn it into a spectacular sculpture. Varun Sardana in his
fashion designs takes things off onto a theatrical platform using masks turning fashion into a performance “...the theatre of
fashion....a play between wearable garments and their heightened presentation”. Vidyun Singh in her essay in this publication
elaborates further on the context and oeuvre of fashion artists and their creations.
The collection features several new art works across the genres, all aesthetically endowed and technically virtuous, created
especially for the exhibition. They respond to the concept behind the exhibition, with a fresh outlook, as fashion creations and
fine art works coalesce for a free exchange of creative energies. The two domains, each influencing the other, with art taking
a lead at times and fashion in the forefront at others, are seen to co-habit art galleries and museum spaces today. Historically
too, both the forms have sustained their links with the society as a part and parcel of its time. There is no difference between
painting on a canvas and drawing on a paper to design an original pattern. Artists are known to patronize fashion designers
while fashion designers have been traditional collectors of art as was the case with French couturier Paul Poiret who collected
works by Picasso, Matisse, Dufy and Rouault amongst others. Artists are also known to work on designing costumes and sets
for theater as did Neelima Sheikh for one of Anuradha Kapoor’s productions. MF Husain and Laxma Goud have both designed
clothes. Artist Sanjay Bhattacharya started his career as a designer and Shuvaprasanna as an illustrator. The influence has
flowed both ways as fashion imitates art and art imitates life and life continues to get impacted by both.
Art and Design
Vidyun Singh
’Some designers consider themselves artists,but few artists consider themselves designers’1
The debate about Fashion and Art raged unabated for a long time. While a leading designer like Rajesh Pratap Singh may self
deprecatingly declare designers as being nothing more than darzi’s and Manish Arora is proud to flaunt a large tattoo on his
arm proudly declaring himself to the world as a ‘Ladies Tailor’,others like Tarun Tahiliani have moved and won a case in the
Mumbai High Court granting fashion designers artist category under section 80RR of the Income tax Law.
Stripped of all the psychology, philosophy and conceptual semantics,the subject is essentially a choice between
functional and free aesthetics. ‘Fashion by its very definition and demands is cyclical, changing and hence impermanent
“the capacity to transform is one of the foundations of fashion.’2 ‘Whilst fashion is oriented to the passing seasons
and thus subject to constant change, art defines itself as precisely the opposite, as directed to the eternal, the
immortal, to lofty insights. The functional aims of fashion and design, and their relations with and reliance on
commerce, seem to hinder the kind of “detached pleasure” (Kant) that is needed for the autonomy of the visual arts.’3
Artists and fashion designers who straddle the genres have been increasingly smudging the boundaries between painting
and photography, architecture and sculpture, film, video and theatre - or even dance and performance when creating fashion
shows.
Working with fashion designers as producers and choreographers for their catwalk presentations for over two decades,
one has seen this ‘smudging of boundaries’ time and time again. For me some are ‘artists that have chosen fashion as a
career’. For them as Susannah Frankel wrote of Hussein Chalayan “fashion is an applied art in as much as it represents the
employment of an artistic sensibility to create functional objects, however inspired or inspiring they may be.”4 The close
working relationship with designers has afforded one with the opportunity to see their inter disciplinary mindset at work and
observe the process of creation from inception to completion. I have seen the inspiration for a collection start as a simple hand
drawn artwork,being layered, textured, treated, dipped, dyed, distressed, burnt and worried till the designer is satisfied that
it is a representative translation of his oeuvre. It is nothing if not a work of art…and then I have seen the same being pared
down, dictated by the demands of functionality, durability, washability, affordability and more importantly ‘producability’ to
a ‘mere shadow of its former self’!
I have seen a designer draping a dummy, a master of his craft part wizard part mathematician….. creating folds, pleats, curves,
creases and angularities…a sculpture in fabric, that stuns you with the sheer poetry of its form…….but again… function steps
in and the garment that eventually leaves the atelier bears but a modicum of resemblance to the muse.
The same is true of some designers when it comes to the presentation of their creations to the public gaze. While some are
satisfied to let the product speak for itself and its desirability be decided by market demands, others are driven to share the
nuances and joy of their creative process with their future stakeholders.
These are the designers who will want to ‘set’ the unveiling of their labour into an experiential presentation supported
by elements that can recreate the spirit of their inspiration. Supporting audio and visual aids, live music, film projection,
performing artists, sculptures, installations …all abeting the presentaion and enveloping it in an aura that covertly and
overtly sends you subliminal, cerebral stimuli.
Today the lines between Art and Fashion are no longer just blurred but there could be said to be a Crossover. September 2010
saw Hussein Chalayan exhibiting his works as an artist and sculptor at Spring Studios and Lisson Gallery,London. Closer home,
our fashion designers are exploring their creativity in diverse disciplines away from their fashion mainstay.Rohit Bal has been
awarded for his stunning interior design for Veda restaurant, Manish Arora is designing things as diverse as Cabannas at a
luxury resort and limited edition high end crockery collections.Rajesh Pratap Singh’s metal sculptures are finding their way
into art collectors galleries and JJ Valaya is all set to open his first photography exhibition in 2011.
Designers began to storm the art bastion some years ago. ‘….. in the 1980s, Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake produced
sculptural dresses, and photo-artists Cindy Sherman or Nan Goldin accepted commissions from the paragons of fashion
extravagance, “Comme des Garçons” and “Matsuda“. Installation and performance artists Sylvie Fleury or Vanessa Beecroft
even made direct references in their works to the glamour world of fashion, while artists from the fashion branch, such
as Peter Lindbergh, began to be exhibited in art museums.The large-scale biennial in Florence in 1996 entitled “Looking at
Fashion” not only presented a synoptical view of the relationship between art and fashion from the beginning of the last
century to the present day. In addition, contemporary artists and fashion designers produced collaborative works for various
locations at the exhibition. Similarly the retrospective “Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art & Fashion” at the Hayward
Gallery in London and Kunstmuseum Wolfsburg in 1999 examined the interactions between functional and free aesthetics, and
highlighted their interpenetration. This development reached its initial climax in 2000 in the highly controversial exhibition
on fashion designer Giorgio Armani at the New York Guggenheim Museum, which subsequently travelled to Bilbao and later
the Nationalgalerie in Berlin.’5
“I feel that designers who are passionate about their work should try and dedicate time to create “art” for art’s sake and train
themselves to express emotion and feeling through their designs. Uniqueness comes from passion and not adhering to any
rules that may force the artist to make even one stroke that was unintended. Commercialism has been dictating the course of
design and has made a clear and thick line between the artist and the designer. Following trends and applying imagery based
on specific needs and goals is the easy part, allowing yourself to express a message or emotion free of any specifications is
where true beauty is born. Designers who are looking for the next big trend or who want to be the one to create that trend
must create chaotic and truly original pieces to display their artistic prowess and then apply those unique methods to their
design at work, and I think this will create a truly harmonious balance between art and design’6
The designers who are showing in ‘Convergence’ are some from among those who have a passion that goes beyond fashion
as we know it. They have nurtured the artist in them and fanned the flames of their creativity. While some have incorporated
their art into their fashions, others have kept their art and fashion in what may appear as two different worlds, even as it
influences and shapes each other. We have a selection of works here from designers that ranges from wearable art, to fine art,
decorative art, photography and sculpture.
The show Convergence – Art and Fashion is an opportunity to be able to provide a space for a run of the ‘spirit of free
aesthetics’ unhindered by functionality, trends,colour-forecasts and market price points for the designers.
1. John O’Nolan-Web Post 2.Roland Barthes- The Fashion System 3.Bettina Ruhrberg -2005 4. Susannah Frankel-The Independent September
-2010 5. Bettina Ruhrberg 6. Art Vs Design by Craig A.Elimeliah - Jan 2006
Baba Anand
Born 1961 at Srinagar in Kashmir did his graduation in
Commerce from the Islamia College of Science and Commerce
there before studying for his Diploma in Fashion Design from
the National Institute of Fashion Design in Delhi. Though Baba
started his career as a fashion designer and had a successful
few years working in the fashion industry, he switched his
medium in response to a personal quest and his playing field
over the last couple of decade has been mainly in the art
domain. The impact of fashion and pop culture and his love
for the world of Indian cinema is evident in work with vintage
film posters, oleographs and lithographs. Painting in mixed-
media, creating collages and installations, his work is marked
for its vibrant colours, decorative patterns, engaging designs,
juxtaposed materials and different embellishments including
flowers and other unusual three-dimensional objects. There
is a freshness and originality, in creations that encompass
diverse themes from Bollywood to religious icons and from
popular matter to vintage oleographs. His Krisna and other
Hindu deities are decorated with sequins, crystals and gold
and silver dust while his series of paintings inspired by IPL
cricket has his kiss imprints on the canvases! There is a match
and mix of the whimsical and jubilant, classical styles with a
glitzy stylish approach and the spiritual with the irreverent.
The richly textured work appears seductive and playful as it
crosses boundaries and challenges assumptions to celebrate
the power of the spirit and the kitsch. Winner of the Recherche
Libre Scholarship for advanced research in the field of Art and
Collage in Paris, Baba has traveled extensively and his work has
been exhibited in significant shows at Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore,
Hyderabad, London, New York and Cannes amongst others. It
has also been featured in many international publications such
as British Vogue, Vanity Fair, New York Magazine, India Today,
Nice Matin, Elle and Air Canada Magazine. Baba is currently
also engaged in creating personalized portraits in his own
unique collage form with photographer Hugo Tillman. The
artist who has a home and a studio on the outskirts of Delhi is
an itinerant traveler who works in different continents. Life Boxes | Mixed media installation
22 boxes 13.5” x 10.5” each | 2004
Rockstar gold jacket | Jute & cotton | 31” x 20” | 2010
dileep sharma
Born 1974 at Mandawar in Rajasthan, Dileep Sharma did his
graduation in art from the Rajasthan School of Art in Jaipur and
Master’s Degree in Fine Art from Sir J. J. School of Art in Mumbai
followed by an Artists’ Residency at the Glasgow Print studio
Scotland that helped refine his technique further. A print maker
and painter his repertoire also includes a fine collection drawings
and watercolours mostly on paper that make dramatic pictorial
narratives about contemporary society with a touch of satire.
Under his pseudonym Kunwarji his adventures extend to include
sculptures and experiments in other media in a heady mix of
pop culture and sexuality featuring contemporary society and its
socio political undercurrents in an interface between mythologies
and today’s urban reality. There is a clear influence of miniature
painting and folk arts with fun underpinning all his densely
rendered work that includes divergent subjects from religious icons
to mundane objects. Dileep’s colourful motifs within fleeting/ on-
the-move images coupled with their cropping, fragmentation and
inter mixing of the old and the new, make a satire on modern world
dominated by advertisements and media. Exhibited in solo shows
at Bose Pacia Kolkata, Keumasan and other galleries in Seoul and
Hashimito in Tokyo besides group exhibitions in other Indian and
international metros including Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, London,
Vienna, Dubai, New York and Hong Kong, the artist’s work has
been featured in Busan Art Edition Fair, Jaipur Virasat festival and
Asian Art Biennale, Bangladesh. Recipient of awards including the
LKA National, Art Society of India Mumbai and Honorable Mention
at the 6th International Biennial of Print Bharat Bhavan Bhopal, his
work is held in important public, corporate and private collections
in India and abroad. Dileep lives in Mumbai and works out of his
studio at home.
For enquiries:
Call : 9811111303 & 9560697504
website : www.icf.edu.in
email : info@icf.edu.in
Art Positive
A Unit of Bajaj Capital Art House
Gallery Art Positive that emerged on the Indian art scene some five years
ago is known for its focus on seminal exhibitions and art initiatives
including work by young and established artists that it has organized to-
date. Given the unprecedented escalation in qualitative and aesthetic merit
of art together with its enhanced monetary value in a volatile market, Art
Positive expanded a couple of years ago, as a unit of Bajaj Capital Art
House to include the business of art as a holistic initiative building on
the in-house expertise of Bajaj Capital Ltd a wealth management company
with a 50 year track record. The goodwill of the parent company, together
with the efforts of a highly experienced team, brought in many positive
results to turn BCAH into a trusted name in the business of art.
The new space also incorporate Book CaféArteria to create a lively ambience
and comfortable reading area for interested connoisseurs, collectors,
artists, experts, educationists and business leaders. Face to face encounters
with master artists as well as promising young artists will be hosted in
the new space, while Art Positive will continue to offer exclusive services
ranging from sourcing collectible and authentic art works of high aesthetic
merit and market value to offering advice on their display and care. In the
aesthetic ambience of the Book CaféArteria matters of art can be discussed
over coffee and book launches, discussions, workshops and presentations
will be held to add to the vibrancy of contemporary art circuit.
Sushma Bahl
MBE, is an independent arts consultant and curator of cultural projects. As Head of Arts Dept
British Council India until April 2003, she led on their cultural policy and program, spearheading
several initiatives including the first ever Festival of India in Britain and the Enduring Image
exhibition from the British Museum with its numerous associated events besides collaborative
projects in visual and performing arts. Over the last few years, as a freelance consultant she
has curated a series of art exhibitions including Fair & Furious based on the theme of women,
Pic: Anshika Varma
Keep the Promise to help raise funds for UN’s Millennium Development Goals, Contemporary
Chronicles in Miniature Art of works from India and Pakistan, Ways of Seeing that won the IHC
Art India Award as the best curated group show, Vistaar involving collaboration between artists
and designers and Annanya an overview of contemporary Indian art. She has edited and written
for artists’ books including those on Thota Vaikuntam, Paresh Maity and Satish Gupta while a
book on Shuvaprasanna is currently in the making. Sushma was the Co-Director for Indian arts
at the Gwacheon Hanmadang Festival in South Korea 2004, Guest Director for XI Triennale-
India 2005, Co-curator for V9/U9 Indo-UK digital art project and Art Link Indo-German artists’
residency 2006&7 and Project Consultant for Bharat Rang Mahotsav X11 in Jan 2010. A Jury
Board Member of the 14th Asian Art Biennale 2010 in Bangladesh, She is a trustee/advisory
panel member of several arts institutions including the National Gallery of Modern Art Delhi
and Florence Biennale in Italy.
Vidyun Singh
The author has been part of the Indian Fashion industry since its inception as choreographer,
stylist, TV director of STYLE FILE a Fashion and Lifestyle television series for the Living Media
Group, producer and fashion editor. She along with her partner noted photographer Asha
Kochhar founded MEDIA MAKERS, one of the pioneering and today one of India’s leading fashion
show companies. Over the years Media Makers has produced over a thousand shows in India
and abroad. Their international shows span the globe from London, Paris, Dubai, HongKong,
Pic: Nupur Mathur
Singapore, Jakarta, Capetown, St. Petersburg, Beijing, Tashkent to presenting designer Ashish
Soni at New York fashion Week. They have as their client profile almost every leading Indian
designer from the late Rohit Khosla to Ritu Kumar,Tarun Tahiliani,Rohit Bal,Rina Dhaka,
JJvalaya, Ashish Soni, Raghuvendra Rathore,Rajesh Pratap Singh,Manish Arora…..etc among
others. As official choreographers at all the India Fashion Weeks she has worked with almost
every Indian designer. Vidyun Singh is also the Director of Programmes at Habitat World,
India Habitat Centre, New Delhi.and a frequent contributor to magazines and Newspapers as a
Fashion commentator
Credits:
Convergence
A group exhibition of artworks and fashion creations
Presented by
Art Positive
A unit of Bajaj Capital Art House
Exhibition supported by
International College of Fashion
Special thanks
Jaggi Bakshi
Kanchan Khubchandani
Rahul Chaudhary
Runvijay Paul
Vikram Seth
International College of Fashion, Delhi
The Citrine
INDIA INDIA
Bakson India
Sarthak Sahil Design Co.
Studio Miscellanea
Text copyrights
Sushma Bahl & Vidyun Singh
Published by
Art Positive Gallery, F-213/B, Lado Sarai, Old MB Road, New Delhi 110030
T: 011-46604128, 41602545 E: info@bcah.in W: www. bcah.in
Nov/Dec 2010
Back Cover Inside
Art Positive
F-213/B, Old MB Road,
Lado Sarai, New Delhi-110030
T: 011-46604128, 41602545
Head Office
Bajaj Capital Art House,
97, Nehru Place, New Delhi-110019
Email: info@bcah.in
www.bcah.in