What is a seam? Is every line of machine stitch a seam?

A seam is a line of machine stitching that joins two or more layers of fabric

together. Technically speaking, every seam is a line of stitch but every stitch line

will not be a seam. We can find seams all over the garments we wear. The line of

stitching running all along our sides, from top to bottom is the seam that not only

joins the front and back of the garment together but also become a mechanism of

providing shape to the garment. It is the seam that is adjusted and readjusted for

adapting the fit of the garment. A seam has the capability of correcting many of

the unintentional flaws in pattern cutting and also the possibility of spoiling the fit

of a perfectly cut pattern piece. Seams are always placed on the wrong side of the

garment (with some exceptions like French seam). This is done to ensure that

outside of the garment looks clean. Remember, since seam is a permanent stitch,

it is always locked at the beginning and end with a reverse stitch.

Seam Allowance: Seam allowance is the distance between the fabric edge and

the seam line. Seam allowance can vary from 0.5cms to 1.5cms depending upon

the requirement of the garment, fabric type and seam type.

Plain Seam: This is the simplest, quickest and most commonly found seam

where two fabrics are joined together with a straight line of plain stitch. To place
this seam, the fabric layers are placed right sides facing each other/inside and

wrong sides of the fabrics facing outside. The seam is placed on the wrong side of

the fabric. After the seam has been placed, the seam allowance on the back side

is flattened/opened with one flap pressed on each side, like the wings of a

butterfly. The raw edges of the plain seam allowance can then be left as it is or

finished with one of these mechanisms.

French Seam: French seam is a two-step seam that can used for various

reasons. The raw edge of the seam allowance is stitched inside in French seam

which ensures that it is not exposed. Therefore, this seam becomes very useful

for fabrics that are prone to fraying. Also, sometimes the fabrics have some

metallic/plastic yarns woven in for decorative purposes. These fabrics feel smooth

on the surface but their raw edges could be pricky to the skin, especially after the

skin is moistened with sweat & body heat. It is recommended to stitch the seams

of all such fabrics in French seam. French seam is recommended for kids clothing

for the same reason that it protects delicate kid’s skin from rashes caused by the

raw edges of the seam allowance. This seam is also highly recommended for

straight line garments like in A-line skirts. This kind of seam is not recommended

for curved seams and seams for close fitting garments as the seam allowance is

thicker than usual and might give a protruding feel to tight-fitting garments.

In French seam, the fabrics are laid wrong sides facing each other and right sides

out for the first steps. Then a plain seam is placed with half a seam allowance

than intended. Remember, as opposite to regular plain seam, here the seam is

being placed on the right side. Then this seam is turned inside out and now
second seam is placed on the original seam allowance, with right sides facing

each other and wrong sides out. So finally, the seam gets placed on the wrong

side and is not visible on the right side. However, there are no raw edges visible

even on the wrong side of the fabric. This seam can only be differentiated from

the wrong side, it looks exactly like plain seam on the right side. There are few

techniques of modifying a plain seam into a pseudo-French seam by stitching the

seam allowance together with raw edges turned in.

Run’n’fell / Flat felled Seam: This interesting seam can be most commonly

found on intimate wear like bralettes and also infant clothing.

flat on the fabric with a second line of stitching that is even visible from the right

side of the garment. This ensures that there is no protruding seam allowance left

on the inside of the garment. This feature makes it suitable for intimate wear and

infant wear.

To make this seam, first a plain seam is placed with right sides facing each other

and wrong sides out, just the way we do for a basic plain seam. Thereafter, one of

the two seam allowances is snipped into half. Now the wider seam allowance is

folded over the narrow allowance (enclosing it’s raw edge) and the whole

assembly is then folded over the base fabric. A seam is now placed on the outer

edge/fold of this assembly so that it gets stitched over the base fabric to ensure

that it would always lay flat. This seam is not suitable for bulky/thick fabrics as

three layers of fabric are trapped inside the seam.

Lapped Seam: This is another interesting type of seam, largely used where the

seam is expected to bear lot of stress or strain like the crotch areas of trousers.
The seam is commonly found in denims and other garments meant to sustain

pulls. The idea is to divide the stress among three layers while the seam is still

joining only 2 layers of fabric. This divides the amount of pull and prevents

damage at seams. This seam is placed on the right side of the fabric and is a one-

step process. To place this seam, a folded edge of one layer is placed over the

marked stitching line on the right side of another layer, and a seam is placed on

the edge of the fold. This seam is thus visible on the right side of the fabric.

https://www.omemy.com/post/basic-seams-and-how-to-use-them-in-sewing