full guide

Painting
a Necron
What have I used? Paints
Vallejo Kimera Ferrario
Model color Red Oxide Apa Colour
I use acrylics and acrylic inks in my paintjobs. Those showed below are not Magenta
Icy Yellow Ultramarine Blue
mandatory colours to use, you can get whatever you have in store from other
Dark Sea Blue (you can also use Art-
brands and find the right matches, here you have a powerful resource: the paint
range compatibility chart from DakkaDakka forum
Black Ak ist Scale75 Dark Ultra-
Chocolate Brown Ultra matte varnish marine Blue)
Tan Glaze
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/paint_range_compatibility_chart
Magenta
Light Flesh
A brand of brushes I sincerely recommend is Borciani & Bonazzi series 105, they
Flat Earth
have fine bristles similar to Winsor & Newton(amazing brand that i use) but a
Light Fleshtone
bit stiffer which is a great thing for stippling, fine lines and durability. All these
Yellow Green
features at more or less half of the cost.
Game Color
Bronze Fleshtone
Smokey ink
Ink
Violet
Brushes Dark Green
Skin Wash

*I have used a size 1 Borciani & Bonazzi

*Do yourself a favour and get an
heavy body white of any quality
brand. It has a smooth consistency
and flows better than any miniature
painting branded whites.
Conversion notes

Orikan Empowered, basically the steroids version of the little fellow on

top right. The concept of this model is pretty interesting and I really liked
to make an extreme version of an existing model.

In general I have decided to keep some characteristic features: The single

eye(that became a third eye), the staff and the tail.

Other features has been added: a clawed hand and 4 insect legs.

To add atmosphere to the paint job I relied on lightnings. As you can see
in the picture they where made of gardening wire, just twist em, remove
the coat for the little ones, glue them in position and cover em with UV
resin. You can also use glue but if you have UV resin it is better because
you can modify the effect as you like and decide when to harden it.

You maybe wonder why sculpting 3 legs when the model has 3 already?
Well, because 2 legs went missing during the shipping of the model lol.

To sculpt them I used Blue Stuff, a reusable mold ideal for copying details.

Conversion
Priming & Prepping
To paint this model I used a slightly different approach, I wanted to test
the various colours to see them together before painting every part of the
model. The main colour of the model will be Magenta because of the OSL
effects so I added Magenta in every mix.

1 First step: Black primer. Second step: White primer. Use the white prim-
er as a general source of light and concentrate the intensity on the face.

2 Prepare the mixes for every colour of your paint scheme, we are not go-
ing from the darker colour to the highlights. Instead we are going to use a
colour that sits in the middle of our value scale.

Steel Black, White, Dark Sea Blue, Ultra Marine Blue and Magenta
Gold Chocolate Brown, Tan Glaze and Magenta
Black Armour Dark Sea Blue, Black and Magenta
Base Chocolate Brown, Red Oxide and Magenta
Lightnings: Kimera Magenta and Magenta

Keep your colour fairly diluted and apply them to cover the various areas
of the model maintaining the priming shadows and highlights underneat.
Just Paint

By painting this way you are going to adjust every part of the model free-
ly, not following a step by step process. I will describe the various stages
of what I did on this miniature.

1 I created a mix for the shadows on the Steel mixing Black, Red Oxide
and Magenta. Then filled the staff parts that will glow in White.

2 Here I worked a bit on the base, to increase the atmosphere I added

some black to the mix and shaded away from the light source of the light-
nings.

3 Then I darkened the Steel a bit more adding black to the Steel mix, in
this way I created a dark base to highlight freely by adding textures.
4 Here I applied Flat Hearth to the Gold armour, I wanted a solid base to
work on the golden NMM. I have to say that I didn’t like the Vallejo Glaze
colours, they are not for me.

5 Now time to have fun and place some sketchy shadows on the NMM
gold, adding more Chocolate Brown and Bronze Flesh to the gold mix.

6 Let us give a closer look: here I highlighted the metal by adding Light
flesh to the Steel mix. As you can see Steel is a very reflective metal so
I sneaked some Gold into the shadows where the Steel parts are close to
a Golden armour plate. Also added some magenta reflection to the gold
close to the lightnings. Those little thing add a lot of atmosphere to a
model and add harmony to the various parts of it.

7 Here you can see more work on the Steel, adding Light Flesh to the mix
focusing on the head and around the lightnings. Also glazed Magenta on
the weapon and around the eyes.

Mood
8 To light up the black armour I mixed some Magenta, Black and Light
Flesh and sketched an OSL on the legs and on the bottom of the model
close to the lightnings.

9 More reflections to the Gold, adding to the mix Bronze Flesh and Ma-
genta, applying it close to the Staff and on the bottom near a lightning.

10 To Highlight the Gold I added Icy Yellow to the Gold Mix.

11 Progressively worked on the Highlights and adding some magenta on

the side near the Staff. Also glazed some Black on the legs to blend the
OSL effect.
12 Here I did some outlining, using Black and Violet ink to make it flow
throw the gaps and recesses. To make your life easier you can use a liner
brush, you can find very cheap sets of synthetic nail art brushes.

13 Using an airbrush, I pushed the OSL of the Staff and lightnings. Mix
Airbrush Thinner and Magenta(Vallejo and a bit of Kimera which is too
strong so use just a little.).

14 More highlights on the Steel and Gold.

15 Restore white on the most bright OSL, Staff and lightnings.

And add more Light Flesh to the black armour mix to highlight it adding
some stippling texture, the look I aimed for was some kind of ceramite.
Here I also refined the face.
INKS!
These steps are very subtle, I took pictures of the various steps but it is
not easy to spot the differences. Basically we are going to add something
and blend together the various element of the model.
Grab an airbrush(or glaze it) use a ratio of 6/7 part thinner and 1 part
paint and apply various layers. Remember to let dry every layer before
applying the next, that is why we are going to use Airbrush Thinner and
not water. Airbrush Thinner dries faster.

1 Here I applied Skin Wash(7 thinner 1 paint) to add saturation to the

gold and overall armour, aim for the shadows and avoid to cover the high-
lights.

2 Same of before but using Dark Green on the Gold.

3 Clean your airbrush and add 7 part thinner and 1 drop of Violet and
1 of Smokey Ink this will create a very deep black brown colour to apply
to the shadows, in this way you are going to increase the volumes of the
model.

4 Adjust a bit the white highlights on the model and glaze a touch of Yel-
low Green on the gold, it will add something.
5 At this point I wanted to add more pathos to the model and decided to
spry black Ink on a wide part of the model that lays in the shadow.
Basically outside the circle and on the back.

2 Thinned even more the mix in the airbrush(like 9 thinner 1 paint) and White Ink
used White Ink inside the circle. Just few layers avoiding to overdo in this
step. This way you are going to create e light effect on the centre of the
model.
Black Ink
3 For the final step, I added pigments to the base and legs. Use some red-
dish Heart tones.
 Thank you for your attention!

Don’t hesitate to contact me on my socials for any

questions or feedbacks.

@olthar

Bye!