JURY ASSIGNMENT

SEWN PRODUCTS MACHINERY AND

EQUIPMENT-I

SUBMITTED BY: ANAMIKA CHANDEL (BFT/22/625)

ANANYA PATHAK (BFT/22/632)
RIJU SINHA (BFT/22/924)
SAKSHI BHATNAGAR (BFT/22/646)
INTRODUCTION
The course "Sewn Products Machinery and Equipment" has covered a variety of
machinery used in the pre-production and manufacturing stages. We have learned about
different spreading and cutting equipment throughout the pre-production phase.
Depending on the component and cloth to be cut, several kinds of blades are utilized
throughout the cutting process. We looked into a variety of cutting tools, including band,
round, and straight knives, as well as supplementary cutting techniques including laser,
die, and plasma cutting, their benefits and drawbacks, and their applications. On the other
hand, we have studied the different types of sewing machines with their bed type and
fusing equipment utilized in the production procedure. Furthermore, we have studied
sewing kinematics, stitch classes, and the workings of machinery.

Our primary topics in this paper will be computerized embroidery and robots in the sewing
process, including sew bots. We will also talk about technical advancements in the field of
sewing specifically and why they are necessary. We'll talk about these technologies'
functions as well as their benefits and drawbacks. A sewing machine is a machine used to
sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the
first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in
clothing companies.
SEWING MACHINE

HISTORY:

Over 20,000 years have passed since the invention of hand stitching. Animal sinew was
used to make the first thread and sewing needles, which were initially constructed from
bones or horns. In the fourteenth century, iron needles were created. In the fifteenth
century, eyed needles first became known.

1755 - Patent issued to German, Charles Wiesenthal. Wiesenthal was issued a patent for
a needle that was designed for a machine.

1790- Thomas Saint was issued the first patent for a complete machine for sewing.

1804- Thomas Stone and James Henderson received a French patent in 1804, for "a
machine that emulated hand sewing." Scott John Duncan received a patent for a "multi-
needle embroidery machine" in the same year and failing, both inventions were quickly
forgotten by the general public.

1810- German, Balthasar Krems invented the automatic machine for sewing caps. Krems
did not patent his invention, and it never functioned well.

1830- Barthelemy Thimonnier patents the first practical sewing machine, using a hooked
needle and shuttle to create a "chain stitch."

1845- Elias Howe invented the "lock stitch," a stronger and more versatile stitch still used
today.

1851- Isaac Merritt Singer introduced the revolutionary treadle-powered sewing machine,
making it much easier and faster to use.

Later 19th century: Continued innovations include the rotary bobbin (Wilson, 1850),
automatic thread tension, and various stitch patterns.

20th Century and Onward: To improve efficiency and convenience, Electric motors swap
out the treadles from the early 1900s. In 1910 invention of the zigzag stitch increased the
range of applications for decorative stitching and edge finishing and the 1940s saw the
introduction of portable sewing machines, which increased accessibility and portability. In
the later half of the 20th century, electronic and computerized machines began to appear,
offering additional stitch options, improved precision, and automatic features.
SEWING BED
Different types of beds with varied purposes are included with sewing machines.
FLAT BED is the most common type, offering a spacious work area for large and
medium-sized projects. The fabric lays flat on the platform, allowing for easy
maneuvering and visibility. Perfect for most garment construction and general sewing
duties like buttonholes, zigzag stitching, and straight stitching.
CYLINDER BED has a rounded end on one side that makes sewing tubular garments
like pants legs, cuffs, and sleeves possible. To ensure flawless stitching, the fabric
feeds around the cylinder.
FOA BED (Feed of Arm Bed) is similar to a flat bed but with the platform's right side
extending farther out. Areas like armholes and clothing necks are now easier to reach.
It is used for sewing curved sections and small, cramped spaces in clothing details.
RAISED BED features a platform elevated above the standard bed, facilitating the
assembly of pre-sewn parts and the easier attachment of accessories. This kind of
machine is often used in industrial settings for mass production of specific items.
POST BED is an extension of the sewing machine bed that extends beyond the needle
and can be either flat or cylindrical. The post bed provides extra support for sewing
bulky or awkward materials, such as cylindrical items (Bags, shoes, hats, and
upholstery), Thick materials (Leather, canvas, and denim) Large items (Quilts,
curtains, and sails)
AUTOMATION IN SEWING INDUSTRY
Automation refers to the use of technology, machinery, or systems to perform tasks with
minimal human intervention. The goal of automation is to streamline processes, increase
efficiency, and reduce the need for manual labor in various industries.

In the sewing industry, automation is essential to fulfilling the demands of cost-

effectiveness, accuracy, and efficiency. Over time, the sewing industry has used
automation more and more, and the current situation shows a growing trend towards
incorporating cutting-edge technologies into several parts of the garment manufacturing
process.

The following justifies the significance of automation in the sewing sector:

Increased Productivity: Automated sewing machines can operate at higher speeds and
efficiency compared to manual sewing. This leads to increased production output,
meeting the growing demand for garments and textiles.
Cut Costs: Acquiring and installing automation technology can result in early costs, but
it frequently results in long-term cost benefits. Processes that are automated can save
labor expenses, cut down on material waste, and improve overall productivity.
Accuracy & Precision: Sewing operations that are difficult for human operators to
complete precisely and intricately can be completed by automated systems. This is
especially crucial for jobs that call for a high level of precision and focus on detail.
Ergonomics and Safety: Physically taxing or repetitive jobs can be replaced by
automation, which lowers the chance of accidents and increases worker safety. This is
especially important for businesses where manual sewing poses potential ergonomic
risks to employees.

The sewing industry needs automation to increase productivity, cut expenses, improve
product quality, and maintain its competitiveness in a changing market. Automation helps
companies in the textile and apparel manufacturing industry grow and remain sustainable
by addressing operational issues as well as promoting overall growth.
SEWBOT
Sewbot is made from two words, i.e. sewing, and robot. As the word explains it is a sewing
robot, it is an automated sewing machine that is designed to do various tasks in stitching
which are traditionally designed to be done by a human. This robot is made to increase
efficiency in the garment industry lessen the dependability on human labor and also to
improve the consistency and quality of the products.
They are particularly useful in large-scale garment manufacturing, where high production
rates and uniform stitching are essential.

FUNCTIONING

Automation and Robotics: Sewbots are equipped with robotic arms and advanced
automation systems that replicate the actions of human hands and fingers. These
robots are programmed to handle various sewing tasks, such as stitching fabric pieces
together, attaching zippers, sewing buttons, and more.
Computer Vision: Many sewbots are equipped with computer vision systems that use
cameras and sensors to identify fabric edges, seam lines, and other relevant features.
This technology helps the sewbot accurately position and manipulate the fabric during
the sewing process.
Programming and Patterns: Sewbots are programmed with digital sewing patterns and
instructions. These patterns guide the sewbot in performing the correct stitching and
sewing techniques for different garment pieces.
Material Handling: Sewbots are designed to handle different types of fabrics and
materials. They can adjust their sewing techniques and tension settings based on the
fabric's characteristics, ensuring proper stitching without damaging the material.
Precision and Consistency: One of the primary advantages of sewbots is their ability to
consistently produce high-quality stitches and seams. They eliminate many of the
variations and errors that can occur in manual sewing, leading to more uniform and
reliable results.
Speed and Efficiency: Sewbots can work at a faster pace compared to manual sewing,
which can significantly increase the speed of garment production. This is particularly
beneficial for large-scale manufacturing.
Customization: Some sewbots are capable of handling customization to a certain
extent. They can be programmed to create different sizes and styles of garments by
adjusting the sewing patterns and instructions.
Quality Control: Sewbots can be integrated with quality control mechanisms to detect
defects or errors in stitching. This helps in maintaining consistent quality throughout
the production process.
Human Involvement: While sewbots are designed to automate various sewing tasks,
human operators are still needed to set up the machines, load fabrics, monitor the
process, and perform certain tasks that require intricate manual work.
WORKING
The robot performs each task, including cutting, sewing a seam, adding a sleeve, and
quality inspection. Each step of the way, the computer vision guides the fabric.
The designer designs the goods in 2D or 3D, the sew data is embedded in the file that
goes right to the robot.
Using this high-caliber machine vision and real-time analysis, the robotics then
continually manipulate and adjust the fabric to be properly arranged. The Pick & Place
machine mimics how a seamstress would move and handle fabric.
The fabric is moved using two methods. The first is a four-axis robotic arm that can lift
and place the fabric using a vacuum gripper. The second is a 360-degree conveyor
system which is a table of embedded spherical rollers.
With each roller or budger ball, moving independently at high speeds, the rollers can
relocate the fabric or smooth the fabric as needed.
The sewing is also done a little differently. The direct sewing process means that rather
than the fabric moving through a stationary sewing machine, the Sewbots move the
needle rather than the fabric.
Sewbots are capable of performing various types of stitches, including decorative
stitches, buttonholes, and more intricate patterns. The sewbot's programming enables
it to switch between different stitches and techniques as required by the garment
design.
Once the sewing is complete, the finished garment may require additional steps such
as ironing, folding, and inspection. Some sewbots may be integrated with these post-
sewing processes as well.

SEWBOTS IN INDUSTRY

Chinese clothing manufacturer Tianyuan Garments Company, which produces clothing

for Adidas and Armani, this automated sewing technology has allowed them to open their
newest factory in Arkansas, not China.
Automated sewing robots reduce the need for sewing laborers. Three to five people will
work each of the 21 robotic production lines. This is a labor decrease of 50-70% compared
to the 10 workers on a conventional line.
In addition to lowering costs, the robots will also increase production. A human sewing line
produces 669 t-shirts in eight hours, compared to the robots at 1,142 t-shirts. That’s a 71%
increase in production, resulting in a total output of 1.2 million t-shirts per year.
Using robotics makes the cost of producing a t-shirt in the U.S. comparable to one that is
produced overseas. For example, in Bangladesh, the labor cost to produce a denim shirt is
about $0.22. If made by U.S. workers, that labor cost jumps to $7.47, but with a robotic
production line, it’s just $0.33 per t-shirt.
ADVANTAGES
Increased Efficiency: Sewbots can work continuously and at a faster pace compared to
human sewers. This leads to significantly increased production rates.
Consistency and Precision: Sewbots can perform stitching with high accuracy and
consistency, resulting in uniform and quality products. Human errors and variations are
reduced.
Reduced Labor Costs: Sewbots can lead to reduced labor expenses since fewer
human sewers are required. This is particularly important in regions with higher labor
costs.
Higher Output: Sewbots can work around the clock, leading to higher output and
meeting demand more effectively, especially for large-scale production.
Flexibility and Customization: Some sewbots can be programmed to create different
sizes and styles of garments, allowing for a certain degree of customization without the
need for retooling or reprogramming.
Quality Control: Sewbots equipped with sensors and cameras can detect stitching
irregularities in real-time, enabling early detection of defects and reducing waste

DISADVANTAGES
Initial Investment: Setting up a sewbot system involves a significant upfront investment
in terms of purchasing the machines, integrating them into existing workflows, and
training personnel.
Complex Setup and Maintenance: Sewbots require skilled technicians to set up,
program, and maintain the machines. Regular maintenance is essential to ensure their
optimal performance.
Limited Adaptability: While some sewbots offer a degree of customization, they might
not handle intricate or highly varied designs as well as skilled human sewers can.
Technological Dependence: Relying heavily on sewbots can make manufacturers
vulnerable to production delays or disruptions if there are technical malfunctions or
software issues.
Lack of Creativity: Sewbots follow programmed patterns and instructions, limiting their
ability to innovate or create novel designs that might require artistic or imaginative
input.
Job Displacement: The widespread adoption of sewbots can lead to a reduction in
demand for traditional sewing jobs, potentially leading to job loss and workforce
transitions.
Complex Fabrics and Processes: Some fabrics, materials, or garment designs might
be too complex for sewbots to handle effectively, requiring human intervention.
FREE MOTION MACHINE EMBROIDERY
Free motion machine embroidery, also known as free-motion quilting or free-motion
stitching, is a technique in which the fabric is moved freely under the needle of a sewing
machine to create intricate and artistic designs. Unlike traditional sewing where the
machine's feed dogs move the fabric, in free motion embroidery, the feed dogs are
typically lowered or covered, allowing the fabric to be moved manually in any direction.

PROCESS
Prepare the Fabric: Hoop or secure the fabric in a way that allows you to move it freely.
Some projects may require stabilizers or backing to support the fabric.
Select a Design: Decide on the design you want to create. This could be a pattern, a
picture, or even free-form stitching.
Start Stitching: With the machine set to a straight or zigzag stitch, begin stitching while
manually moving the fabric under the needle. The direction, speed, and pattern of
movement are entirely controlled by the person operating the machine.
Experiment with Stitch Length and Width: Adjust the stitch length and width to achieve
different effects. Experimenting with these settings can add texture and dimension to
your designs.
Thread Tension: Proper thread tension is crucial for achieving clean and balanced
stitches. Adjust the tension as needed based on the type of fabric and thread you're
using.
Practice on Scrap Fabric: If you're new to free-motion embroidery, it's a good idea to
practice scrap fabric before working on your actual project. This helps you get a feel for
the machine and develop your technique.

COMPUTERIZED EMBROIDERY
Computerized embroidery refers to the use of computer-controlled machines to create
intricate and precise embroidered designs on fabric or other materials. This technology
has revolutionized the traditional art of embroidery, offering greater efficiency, accuracy,
and versatility.

COMPONENTS
Embroidery Machine: Computerized embroidery machines are specially designed
machines that use a combination of needles, threads, and a computerized control
system to stitch designs onto fabric.
Digitizing Software: To create a design that can be embroidered by a computerized
machine, a digital file must be created. Digitizing software is used to convert graphic
designs or artwork into a format that the embroidery machine can understand.
Digital Design File: The digitized design, often saved in formats like .DST or .EMB,
serves as the instructions for the embroidery machine. It contains information about
stitch types, color changes, and the precise sequence of movements for the needle
PROCESS
Design Creation: A digital design is created using graphic design software or
specialized digitizing software. This design can be a logo, artwork, or any pattern that
the user wants to embroider.
Digitization: The created design is converted into a digital embroidery file using
digitizing software. This process involves specifying stitch types, density, and other
parameters to ensure the design translates well to embroidery.
Loading the Design: The digitized design is loaded into the memory of the embroidery
machine. Some machines allow for direct connection to a computer, while others use
removable media like USB drives.
Material Preparation: The fabric or material to be embroidered is hooped and secured
in the embroidery machine. The hoop holds the fabric taut, allowing for precise
stitching.
Machine Setup: The operator sets up the embroidery machine by selecting the
appropriate thread colors, adjusting tension, and ensuring the proper needle is in
place.
Embroidery Process: The machine begins stitching the design according to the
instructions in the digital file. The needle moves in precise patterns, and different
colors are automatically changed as specified in the design.
Finishing: Once the embroidery is complete, the fabric is removed from the machine,
and any excess threads are trimmed.

ADVANTAGES
Precision: Computerized embroidery ensures high precision and accuracy in stitching
intricate designs.
Versatility: It allows for a wide range of design possibilities, from simple text to complex
multicolor patterns.
Efficiency: The automated nature of computerized embroidery machines speeds up
the embroidery process, making it more efficient than traditional hand embroidery.
Consistency: Computerized machines produce consistent results, eliminating
variations that may occur in manual embroidery.
Customization: Designs can be easily customized and modified using digitizing
software to meet specific requirements.
Complex Stitching: Computerized embroidery machines can perform various stitch
types, including satin stitches, fill stitches, and specialty stitches, allowing for diverse
and intricate designs.

DISADVANTAGES
Initial Cost: Computerized embroidery machines can be expensive to purchase,
especially high-end industrial models with advanced features. The initial investment
includes the cost of the machine, digitizing software, and other accessories.
Dependence on Technology: Computerized embroidery machines are highly
dependent on technology. Any software glitches, compatibility issues, or hardware
malfunctions can disrupt production and require technical intervention.
Limited Creativity: While computerized machines offer a wide range of designs and
customization options, some argue that the creativity involved in traditional, hand-
guided embroidery may be restricted by the digital nature of the process
Learning Curve: Operators may face a learning curve when transitioning from
traditional to computerized embroidery. Learning to use digitizing software and
understanding the intricacies of the machine's settings can take time.
REFERENCES:

https://millmuseum.org/sewing-revolution
https://textilelearner.net/computerized-embroidery-types-machine-
process-and-benefits//
https://www.sutori.com/en/item/sewing-machine-1755-charles-
weisenthal-description-he-invented
https://www.innovationintextiles.com/automated-sewbot-to-make-
800000-adidas-tshirts-daily/
https://www.themanufacturer.com/articles/sewbots-replace-humans-
new-us-garment-factory/