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UNIT-1 BGC

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BASIC GARMENT

CONSTRUCTION
ESSENTIALS OF SEWING
INTRODUCTION
1. A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials
together with threads. Sewing machines were invented during the first
Industrial Revolution to decrease the quantum of manual sewing done in
garment industries. Since its invention, it has greatly improved the efficiency
and productivity of the fabric, garment and needle industries.

2. The different parts of a sewing machine and its functions help the Operator to
know the functioning of a sewing machine. There are different types of sewing
machine used in the manufacturing of garments and other articles, but here in
this Unit, we will study only single needle lock stitch machine.

3. A sewing machine controls the fabric with feeding devices and forms a perfect
stitch to join the fabrics. It has various parts and attachments, each of which
have their own importance and use. There are mainly two categories of sewing
machines that is, domestic sewing machine and industrial sewing machine.

4. A Sewing Machine Operator should have the knowledge and skills to operate the
different types of sewing machine. The Operator should know about the various
operations of the sewing machine, its parts, their functions, its attachments and
the terms related to stitching.
SEWING MACHINE AND ITS TYPES
1.Sewing can be broadly classified in two categories— hand
sewing and machine sewing.

2.Hand sewing may be used for temporary purposes or


sometimes, it may be used for some special purposes like
hemming, buttonhole making, blanket stitch, etc.

3.The basic thought behind sewing machines is to


mechanically stitch two or more pieces of material—mainly
fabric, together using thread and a needle. Sewing machines
reduce the amount of manual sewing in preparing a garment
or any other article. Sewing machines help the operator in
getting the work done quicker, with greater accuracy and much
more consistently.
HAND SEWING
HAND SEWING
0
1
EVOLUTION OF
THE SEWING
MACHINE
● The sewing machine device was invented in 1790 by
English inventor, Thomas Saint, but he could not
advertise his invention. He designed a wooden awl
to make holes in leather and canvas, thus allowing a
needle and single piece of thread through to hook
underneath, and forming locked chain stitches.

● Josef Mader sperger began developing the sewing


machine in 1807 and he presented the working
machine in 1814.

● John Greenough patented the first sewing machine


in the United States in 1842. Elias Howe created a
sewing machine in 1845.
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES
1. Mechanical sewing
machines
2. Electronic sewing machines

3. Computerised sewing
machines
d
1. Mechanical sewing
machines - These machines are
less expensive and are the
simplest type of sewing machines
in terms of build. They are the
hand-operated sewing machine
and treadle sewing machine.
ELECTRONIC SEWING MACHINE

1.These machines became popular during the 1970s.

2.These sewing machines run faster than manually


operated machines and has more features
comparatively.

3.In the electronic machines, balance wheel comes to d


motion by a belt, which is attached to an electric
motor.

4.A single motor is attached to the electronic sewing


machines and this motor supplies power to the
needle.

5.It is essential to control the speed of this machine


by putting pressure on an electronic foot pedal.
COMPUTERISED SEWING MACHINE

1. These sewing machines are very fast and specific


to use.

2.These machines are similar to the electronic sewing


machines. However, a computerised sewing machine
works with the help of various softwares.
d
3. Computerised sewing machines allow the Operator
to tailor the functions according to the sewing needs.
A computerised sewing machine functions very
appropriately in designing and stitching various
components of the garment like sleeves, yokes,
pockets, etc. These advanced computerised
machines have an LED display or LCD display or
touch screen.
PARTS AND FUNCTIONS OF SEWING MACHINE

THREAD GUIDE BOBBIN WINDER

NEEDLE HANDWHEEL

PRESSER FOOT PATTERN WHEEL


THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE
1. Spool pin is a metal rod placed on the top of the machine for correct
positioning of the reel of thread.

2. Thread guide takes the thread from the spool pin to the needle
through a small hole. It holds the thread in position from the spool
to the needle. It smoothens the thread and protects it from
abrasion.

3. Tensions discs control the amount of pressure applied to


the thread for an even feed to the machine needle causing an
evenly formed stitch. Many newer sewing machines have the disks
hidden inside the machine casing.
THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE
4. The take-up lever is located directly above the presser foot of a
sewing machine. It's the part of the machine that pulls the thread from
the spool to feed it through the machine and lifts the thread back up out
of the cloth after a stitch has been made.

5. Needle bar is a metal rod to hold the needle at one end with the
help of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle.

6. Presser foot is a detachable device for holding the material in place


on the feed dog while stitching. This device is not used when
attachments for tucks, ruffles or embroidery are used.
THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE
7. The presser foot lifter is used to lower and raise the presser foot.

8. Stitch regulator controls the length of the stitch.

9. Bobbin winder is a device which helps in winding the


bobbin (located inside the slide plate) properly. The thread
passes through it tightly or loosely, as desired
10. Fly wheel (or balance wheel) is a round wheel located
at the upper right of the sewing machine. This is made to
revolve the machine. It controls the motion of the machine
manually or electrically.
11. Slide plate is a rectangular plate, which facilitates
the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine
top.
THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE
12. Feed dog consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate.
When the machine is in motion, the feed moves upwards, thus
advancing the material as each stitch is made. It helps to move the
material forward while sewing.

13. Face plate is a cover, which when removed, gives access to the
oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever.

14. Arm is a horizontal part of the head that houses the drive shafts.
THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE
15. Bobbin case is fixed in the shuttle case placed in the bottom
chamber (the hollow space under the slide plate) of the sewing
machine and moves into position to catch the top thread and form the
stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin case. The lower tension
of the thread can be adjusted (by loosening or by tightening) by a
small screw fixed on the bobbin case.
16. Bobbin winder tension angle is a device situated near the
bobbin winder which helps to wind the bobbin evenly.
17. Needle clamp is a screw that is tightened to hold the needle in
position.
18. Handle driver is attached to the handle attachment of the machine
and helps to drive it with hand.
THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE
19. Treadle is the foot rest at the base of the treadle machine which is
pressed with the feet to operate the treadle machine.
20. Pressure regulating screw is the screw above the presser bar,
which can be tightened to increase the pressure on the fabric when
stitching with fine/ lightweight fabric and loosened to accommodate
thick fabric.
21. Treadle drive is a large wheel located under the board in the
treadle machine. It is connected to the balance wheel with a leather
belt. As it rotates, the power is transmitted to the balance wheel by the
leather belt.
WHAT IS THIS TOPIC ABOUT?

A B C
SATURN NEPTUNE MERCURY
Saturn is the ringed The reason why It’s the closest planet
one. It’s composed Neptune is blue is due to the Sun and the
mostly of hydrogen to the presence of gas smallest one in the
and helium methane Solar System
FEATURES OF THE TOPIC

MATERIALS TOOLS
It’s still the only It has a beautiful
world known to name, but it’s
support life terribly hot

PATTERNS FITTING
It’s the biggest
Despite being red,
planet in the Solar
Mars is a cold place
System
RECOMMENDATIONS

NEPTUNE MERCURY
Neptune is named after It’s the closest planet
the Roman god of the to the Sun and the
sea. It is 17 times the smallest one in the
mass of Earth Solar System
MARS SATURN
Despite being red, Mars Saturn is the ringed
is a cold place. The one. It’s composed
planet is full of iron mostly of hydrogen and
oxide dust helium
A PICTURE
REINFORCES
THE CONCEPT
Images reveal large
amounts of data, so
remember: use an image
instead of a long text
A PICTURE IS WORTH A
THOUSAND WORDS
AWESOME
WORDS
Because keywords are great for
catching your audience’s attention
“My soul is fed with
needle and thread”
–SOMEONE FAMOUS
9h 55m 23s
Is Jupiter’s rotation period
386,000 km
Is the distance
333,000.000 between Earth and the
Moon
Earths is the Sun’s mass
SOME PERCENTAGES

70% 40% 55%

NEPTUNE VENUS SATURN


Neptune is blue due Venus has a It’s the ringed one.
to the presence of beautiful name and It’s a composed
gas methane is the second planet mostly of hydrogen
from the Sun and helium
225,000
Big numbers catch your audience’s
attention
REVIEWING CONCEPTS

INVISIBLE STRAIGHT
ZIGZAG STITCH ZIPPER STITCH
Neptune is the Venus has a beautiful Mercury is the closest
farthest planet from name, but it’s terribly planet to the Sun
the Sun hot

SEW A BUTTON USE A PATTERN SEW A ZIPPER


It’s the biggest planet Saturn is the ringed Despite being red,
in the Solar System one and a gas giant Mars is a cold place
THE STITCHES

STITCH TYPE DESCRIPTION RATING


Despite being red, Mars is a cold
Straight Stitch
place

Mercury is the closest planet to the


Zigzag Stitch
Sun

Buttonhole Stitch It’s the farthest planet from the Sun

Saturn is the ringed one and a gas


Knit Stitch
giant

It’s terribly hot, even hotter than


Blind Hem Stitch
Mercury
TIPS FOR BUYING A SEWING MACHINE

34% 22%
STITCHES BUDGET
Saturn has several
Earth is full of life
rings

12% 32%
SPECIAL
ATTACHMENTS
FEATURES
It has a beautiful name Mars is a cold place
To modify this graph, click on it, follow the
link, change the data and paste the new
graph here
SOME TOP SEWINGS SCHOOLS
BOBBIN WINDER
It’s the smallest
planet
HANDWHEEL
Mars is a cold place

PATTERN WHEEL
Jupiter is a gas giant

PATTERN WHEEL
Saturn has several
rings
DO YOU WANT TO KEEP LEARNING?

⟼ AUTHOR (YEAR). Title of the publication.


Publisher
SOME INTERESTING BOOKS
⟼ AUTHOR (YEAR). Title of the publication.
Publisher
⟼ AUTHOR (YEAR). Title of the publication.
Publisher
⟼ AUTHOR (YEAR). Title of the publication.
Publisher
⟼ AUTHOR (YEAR). Title of the publication.
Publisher
⟼ AUTHOR (YEAR). Title of the publication.
Publisher
TIMELINE
PHASE 1 PHASE 3 PHASE 5
Mercury is the It’s the farthest It’s terribly hot,
closest planet to planet from the even hotter than
the Sun Sun Mercury

PHASE 2 PHASE 4
Saturn is the ringed It’s the biggest
one and a gas giant planet in the Solar
System
SNEAK PEEK

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