9/29/2022

Chapter 1
Course Title: Textile Finishing Introduction to Mechanical finishing
Course code: WPE 403
Credit:3

Chapter 1
Introduction to Mechanical finishing

Reference Content
+ 1. Technology of Textile Processing by Dr. V. A. Shenai (chapter 4) 1 Introduction to textile finishing. .
+ 2. Principles of Textile Finishing by A. K.Roy. 2.Finishing
3.Why do we finish?/objectives/Importance of finishing.
4.Classification of finishing
5. Mechanical finishing =
6.List of some typical mechanical finishing operations and their
objectives.
7. Effect.of physical /Mechanical finishes. -.
8.List of some mechanical finishing method.
 Introduction to finishing Finish Definition
* A finish is done to a fabric after weaving or knitting to change it’s
appearance, handle and performance.
* In broad sense, the term finishing cover all the processes which the * Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such a way that
fabric undergoes after weaving loom or knitting machine to the stage the product has the desired aesthetic and functional properties required
at which it enters the market. Thus the term also include bleaching, for its intended use and therefore has greater market value. The desired
dyeing, mercerizing etc., but normally the term is restricted to the final
properties may include the fabric’s dimensions and their stability, its
stage processing after bleaching and dyeing. weight, drape, appearance, softness and handle, as well as any required
functional properties such as resistance to creasing, flames, water, oil,
* However, fabric which are neither bleached nor dyed are also finished. dirt or bacteria.
Some finishing processes such as creping of silk and rayon
+ Any operation for improving the appearance or usefulness of a fabric
mercerization of cotton or crabbing of wool are carried out as a part of
the first phase of fabric treatment. . after it leaves the loom or knitting machine.
* The last chance to provide the properties that customer will value.

Objectives/Importance of finishing Classification of finishing: (ref 1 pg 3-5)

* 1. On the basis of quality/nature of finish
* To improve serviceability.
* Physical or mechanical finish
* To improve attractiveness. * Chemical finish
* To enhance their sale appeal.
* To improve comfort (softness) and usefulness. * 2.On the basis of purpose /performance
* To improve specific functional properties. (Flame retardant, water + Aesthetic finish
repellency) * Functional finish

+ 3. On the basis of durability/degree of performance

* Temporary finish
* Permanent finish
* Semi-permanent finish
 Classification of finishing: (ref 1 pg 3-5) Mechanical/Physical finishing method.

ee
+ Mechanical Finishing is defined as any operation performed to improve
fabric appearance or function by physical manipulation. Mechanical
finishing or ‘dry finishing’ uses mainly physical means to change
fabric properties and usually alters the fabric’s appearance as well.
Steam or water may accompany the physical manipulation; however,
chemicals other than lubricants are seldom used. Fabric luster,
smoothness, softness, residual shrinkage and hand are examples of the
properties that can be altered by mechanical finishing.
* Examples of mechanical fmishes are:
* Compacting (Shrinkproofing)
* Calendaring
* Raising (Napping, Sueding)
* Shearing
¢ Polishing

List of some typical mechanical finishing operations and

their objectives. |
¢ This finishes are given by mechanical arrangements like simple drying
operation on cylinders or on a stenter to a complicated series of Table 25.1 Mechanical finishing processes and their objectives
calendaring operations.
* Most mechanical finishing processes modify the appearance and Process Objective
handle of a fabric. These processes are used on a variety of fabrics
containing different types of fibres. Their major effect is to modify the Calendering Pressing and smoothing the surface of the fabric
fabric surface, usually either to make it smoother, or to raise a pile. Napping or raising Breaking fibres In the yarn surface and raising a pile
Both effects can cause a change in the perceived colour of the material Brushing Laying the pile ini the same direction
because they modify the reflection of light from the fabric surface. Shearing Cutting the pile fibres all to the same length
Compressive shrinking © Compressing the fabric to the dimensions it would
have after shrinkage caused by washing
Mechanical/Physical finishing method Effect of physical /Mechanical finishes (Ref 2, pg 3-4)
* 1.Optical finishes
* 2.Brushing and napping
Temporary Permanent * 3.Compacting
* Calendering * Raising
° Beetling * Shearing
* Sretching * Sanforizing
* Napping

Chemical finishing (ref. 1, pg-4) On the basis purpose:

* Chemical methods invoive application or deposition of chemicals or
carrying out a chemical reaction on the fabric. Generally chemical ¢ Aesthetic finish: It modify the appearance, handle or drape of fabric.
finishes are permanent, only a few may be temporary. Softness and lusture related finishing. e.g Napping, sueding, stiffing,
softening, mercerizing.
* Permanent chemical finishes are:
* Mercerizing
* Functional Finishing: Performance related finishing.eg. Water
* Parchmentizing
repetrent flame retardant, antistatic, crease recovery durable press
* Silicon treatment for hydrophobic effect. finish tc.
+ Fluoro chemicals for soil release and soil resistance.
* Certain phosphorus and nitrogen compounds for flame retardance.
On the basis of durability
* Semi permanent finish:
*1.Temporary finish: This finish remains upto one wash.
Fg.Calendering, starching, embossing (raised effect on fabric). * This finish is durable upto 5-10 wash. Its durability lies between
temporary and permanent finish.
* It can be classified into: (ref 1, pg 5)
* Eg. Schneider calendaring
* A)Pure finish
* B)Medium Finish
* C) Heavy Finish
¢ 2.Permanent finish:
* This finish remains unaffected under all the conditions of wear and
treatment (usually upto 20-30 wash) to which the fabric may be
subjected to in it’s normal life. It is done by chemical treatment.
Mecerizing, parchmentizing etc

Finishes enhancing appearance

* Napping
¢ Brushing
¢ Singeing
* Beetling
Decating
Tentering
Calendaring or pressing
Moireing
Embossing
Creping
* Glazing
* Polishing
* Optical brightening
* Milling