SPINNING NORMS

Prof. R. Chattopadhyay
IIT, Delhi
 Table 1 Cotton fibre characteristics for
different yarn counts
Yarn Cotton Staple 2.5% UR Finene Tenacity Trash
Count Variety length SL (mm) (%) ss g/tex (%)
(Nm) (mm) (Mic)

< 16 Deshi, < 20 16.8 – 48 - 4.7- 16.2- 3- 10

Wagad,
Striping &
Comber 22.1 53 7.4 21.9
waste

16-23 Wagad, 20 - 23 21.5 - 48 - 4.6 – 1 5.0 - 5-10

Virnar,
Jayadhar 53 21.9
& 23.4 5.2
Stripping

24-32 Virnar, 22 - 24 23.2- 46- 3.9- 16.9 - 3 - 10

AK-235,
Gaorani, 26.1 52 5.2 24.0
J-34, CJ-
73, Y-1, V-
797, F-414
 Yarn Cotton Staple 2.5% UR Finene Tenacity Trash
Count Variety length SL (%) ss g/tex (%)
(Nm) (mm) (mm) (Mic)

33-42 J-34, CJ- 16.9- 23.2- 46- 52 3.8- 16.9- 3- 10

73, Y-1, V- 24 26.1 5.2 24.0
797, F-414,
A-51/9
43-52 F-414, A- 18.1- 23.4- 44.6- 3.6- 18.1- 6- 8
51/9, SRT- 22.2 29.5 49.4 4.6 22.2
1, 1007,
Laxmi,
Shankar-4
(B), JKHY-
1
53-62 Digvijay, - 23.7- 44.6- 3.5- 18.1- 6-7
co2, SRT- 29.5 49.0 4.6 22.2
1, 1007,
Laxmi,
Shankar-4
(B)
 Yarn Cotton Staple 2.5% UR Finene Tenacity Trash
Count Variety length SL (%) ss g/tex (%)
(Nm) (mm) (mm) (Mic)
63-70 1007, - 26.3- 44.6- 3.6- 18.2- 6-7
Laxmi, 49.4
Shankar-4 29.5 4.0 22.2
(A), (B) &
(E),
American
1.1/8
71-102 Shankar-4 - 25.6- 45.7- 2.8- 21.2- 21.2-
(A), MCU-5 28.3
(A) & (B), 34.9 49.0 4.0 28.3
Varalaxmi
(B) Sudan
GI, Sudan
GS

103-137 Varalaxmi - 25.8- 42- 2.8- 21.2- 5-6

(A) & (B), 34.9
MCU-5 50 4.0 28.3
(A),(Sudan
GS, Giza-
68)
 Yarn Cotton Staple 2.5% UR Finene Tenacity Trash
Count Variety length SL (%) ss g/tex (%)
(Nm) (mm) (mm) (Mic)

138-170 Varalaxmi - 35- 45- 2.7-3.1 30.1-32.6 3

(A), Suvin 37.4 49.5
(Giza-45)

170 and Suvin 41.0 37.6 49.5 2.7-3.0 30.8-33.0 2

above (Giza-45)

Note: These are only indicative values. The characteristics are variable
from year to year.
Source: CIRCOT, Mumbai; KVIC, Mumbai.
 Table 2 Properties of polyester to be blended with cotton for
different end-uses

End-uses Yarn count Length Fineness Tenacity

group (Nm) (mm) (den) (g/ den)

Shirting 70 -100 38- 44 1.2 4.5- 6.0

and sarees

Suiting 2/50- 2/70 38- 44 1.5 4.5 - 5.5

 Table 3 Norm for yarn count CV%

Metric count group Count CV%

Cotton
Coarser (Up to 24) 10
Medium (24 to 70) 8
Finer (Above 70) 6

Polyvastra
For all count groups 6
 Table 4 Norms for yarn CSP
Lea dimensions
Metric count 80 threads, 120 yard 100 threads, 100m
group (Nm) Normal Superior Normal Superior
(Nm  Kg) (Nm  Kg) (Nm  Kg) (Nm  Kg)
Cotton
Below 6 * * * *
6 – 16 750 900 900 1080
16 – 24 950 1050 1140 1260
24 – 36 1000 1100 1200 1320
36 – 50 1050 1200 1260 1520
50 – 70 1150 1270 1380 1520
70 – 85 1200 1300 1440 1560
85 – 100 1500 1650 1800 1980
100–140 1520 1700 1820 2040
Above 140 1450 1550 1740 1860
Polyvastra
Below 36 * * * *
36 – 70 2080 2280 2500 2740
70 – 100 2080 2150 2500 2580
100 -140 * * * *
 Table 5 Norm for CSP CV%
Metric count group CSP CV%
Cotton 12

Polyvastra 12
 Table 6 Norms for yarn unevenness values (U%)

Metric count group Unevenness (U%)

Cotton
For all count groups 22

Polyvastra
For all count groups 19
 Table 7 Imperfections in khadi yarn
Metric count Total Thick Places Thin Places Neps
group Imperfections (Nos/Km) (Nos/Km) (Nos/Km)
(Nos / Km)

Cotton
Below 6 * * * *
6 – 16 * * * *
16 – 24 * * * *
24 – 36 4700 1600 1600 1250
36 – 50 5800 1700 1600 2100
50 – 70 8300 2500 2450 2600
70 – 85 * * * *
85 – 100 * * * *
100–140 * * * *
Above 140 7700 2100 2500 2900

Polyvastra
Below 36 * * * *
36 – 70 3800 1400 930 1600
70 – 100 * * * *
100 -140 * * * *
 Table 8 Appearance grade for khadi yarn

Metric count group Appearance grade

Cotton
Up to 16 D
16 to 36 D or D+
Above 36 D or C
Polyvastra
For all count groups C
 Table 9 Norm for twist in the yarn
Metric count Minimum Maximum Minimum Maximum
group twist twist twist twist
(Turns/inch) (Turns/inch) (Turns/cm) (Turns/cm)

Cotton
Below 6 * * * *
6 – 16 11.0 15.0 5 6
16 – 24 15.0 19.0 6 7
24 – 36 19.0 22.0 7 9
36 – 50 20.5 25.0 8 10
50 – 70 23.0 27.0 9 11
70 – 85 26.0 30.0 10 12
85 – 100 25.0 39.0 11 15
100–140 32.0 40.0 13 16
Above 140 38.0 50.0 15 20
Polyvastra
Below 36 * * * *
36 – 70 20.0 23.0 8 9
70 – 100 23.0 26.0 9 10
100 -140 * * * *
 Table 10 BIS Norms of some cotton khadi fabrics
(Constructional parameters and property)
Metric Count Thread Density Breaking load (on
Types of of Yarn (Nm Mass 10x20 cm strip, N
Fabric g/m2
Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Warp Weft
Bed sheets 27 27 16 14 190 490 390
(Bleached) (Double) (Double)

Bunting 17 14 14 13 190 450 330

Cloth
(Dyed)

Pugre Cloth 30 30 16 16 110 334 294

(Bleached
or Dyed)
 Metric Count Thread Density Breaking load (on
Types of of Yarn (Nm Mass 10x20 cm strip, N
Fabric g/m2
Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Warp Weft
Honey a) 14 a) 14 11 9 360 450 430
Comb and (Double) (Double)
Huck-a- b) 14 b) 10 11 7 325 620 530
Back (Double) (Double)
Towels c) 17 c) 17 8 8 198 450 450
(Bleached) (Double) (Double)
d) 24 d) 20 18 13 290 1200 660
(Double) (Double)
e) 34 e) 34 11 9 218 630 530
(Double) (Double)
Long 27 20 17 17 160 392 372
Cloth
(Bleached)
Dosuti a) 27 a) 27 14 13 205 760 660
(Bleached (Double) (Double)
or Dyed) b) 20 b) 17 12 11
(Double) (Double) 260 800 660
 Metric Count Thread Density Breaking load (on
Types of of Yarn (Nm Mass 10x20 cm strip, N
Fabric g/m2
Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Warp Weft
Napkins a) 27 a) 27 14 13 205 760 660
and Table (Double) (Double)
Cloth
(Bleached) b) 27 b) 20 17 17 160 390 370

Dungri 17 17 13 12 180 390 370

Cloth
(Bleached)
Dusters 17 14 13 12 170 450 430
(Bleached)

Lining 20 17 16 14 185 450 430

Cloth
(Dyed)
Sheeting 20 20 16 16 170 450 450
Cloth
(Bleached)
 Metric Count Thread Density Breaking load (on
Types of of Yarn (Nm Mass 10x20 cm strip, N
Fabric g/m2
Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Warp Weft
Sponge 200/2 14 or 9 9 90 - -
Cloth 7
(Grey)

Tolerance percentage for thread density = ±1

Method of test:
1. Thread density: IS 1963: 1981
2. Mass (g/m2)- IS 1964:1970,
3. Breaking load- IS 1969:1985
 Table 11 Constructional parameters and physical
property of additional khadi fabrics
Metric count Thread density GSM
Types of Yarn Range (per cm) (g/m2)
Fabric count used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
20-30 24- 27 20- 27 17- 21 11- 14 119- 138
Kurta, 30-50
pajama & 31- 49 29- 47 16- 29 14- 21 95- 148
salwar suit 50-80 52 52 37 26 125
80-100 - - - - -
Above 100 101- 126 108- 165 37- 61 40- 44 59- 107
Medium 40- 59 51- 58 20- 25 16- 23 82- 90
Dhoti
Superfine 108- 145 105- 140 33- 35 27- 51 59- 63
Medium 50 54 20 16 74
Saree Fine 83 82 36 26 78
Superfine 102- 141 115- 150 28- 32 22- 32 43- 45
 Breaking Elongation %
Types of Yarn count Strength (N) Range
Fabric used Range
(Nm)
Warp Weft Warp Weft
20-30 120- 235 95- 170 7- 10 10- 14
Kurta,
30-50 140- 330 125- 210 8- 18 8- 27
pajama
& salwar 50-80 245 210 11 11
suit
80-100 - - - -
Above 100 110- 305 170- 225 8-9 8- 9
Medium 165- 200 95- 190 11- 12 10- 17
Dhoti
Superfine 120- 125 135- 205 11- 13 8-9
Medium 160 140 7 12
Saree Fine 235 190 12 9
Superfine 140- 160 140- 145 6-9 5- 7
 Tearing strength Fabric dimensions No of
Types of Yarn (Kg) Range (cm) Range samples
Fabric count used tested
(Nm) Warp Weft Width Length
20-30 1-3 1-2.5 88-89 - 3
Kurta, 30-50
pajama & 1-3.5 1-2 84-107 - 9
salwar suit 50-80 2 2 - - 1
80-100 - - - - 0
Above 100 0.5-1 0.5-1.5 - - 2
Medium 1-2 1-2 105-112 350-380 3
Dhoti
Superfine 0.5-1 0.5-1.5 120-124 394-400 2
Medium 2.5 2.5 110 588 1
Saree Fine 0.5 0.5 114 504 1
Superfine 0.5-1 0.5-1 115-120 520-532 2
 Metric count Thread density GSM
Types of Yarn count Range (per cm) (g/m2)
Fabric used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Med/coarse 31-32 7 18-19 9-10 221-223
Medium 35-39 40-45 18-26 14-19 97-124
Shirting
Fine/coarse 70 13 21 10 133
Fine 69 65 34 35 114
Fine/superfine 95 108 30 44 88
Superfine 141-155 100-172 57-87 50-73 75-113

Coating Bundy 28-43 4-9 14-26 8-9 197-275

Pant 10 11 26 11 408
Med/coarse 26 15 18 12 160
Medium 27-41 27-48 18-23 12-19 107-124
Lungi
Fine 61 70 26 19 83
Superfine 101 96 34 27 68
 Breaking Elongation %
Types of Yarn count Strength (N) Range
Fabric used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Med/coarse 215-220 185-200 15-17 9-12
Medium 210-250 100-240 8-10 12-19
Shirting
Fine/coarse 100 210 14 8
Fine 160 220 10 12
Fine/superfine 140 190 10 10
Superfine 200-235 205-305 9-15 9-11
Coating Bundy 160-260 195-370 12-24 11-15
Pant 1110 520 14 11
Med/coarse 240 250 26 19
Medium 225-230 145-175 14-15 8-16
Lungi
Fine 170 135 14 8
Superfine 140 140 14 8
 Tearing strength Fabric dimensions
Types of Yarn count (Kg) Range (cm) Range No of
Fabric used samples
Warp Weft Width Length tested
(Nm)
Med/coarse 4-4.5 2.5-3 91-98 - 2
Medium 1-2.5 0.5-1.5 83-84 - 3
Shirting
Fine/coarse 2 1 90 - 1
Fine 1 1 89 - 1
Fine/superfine 1 0.5 100 - 1
Superfine 1-3 0.5-3.5 91-100 - 3
Coating Bundy 3-4.5 2.5-4 72-87 - 4
Pant 2 3 87 - 1
Med/coarse 2.5 4 110 218 1
Medium 1-1.5 2-4 108-116 204-230 2
Lungi
Fine 3 2 125 176 1
Superfine 1 1 125 176 1
 Metric count Thread density GSM
Types of Yarn count Range (per cm) (g/m2)
Fabric used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Turkish 18-19 27-42 26-27 16-19 231-239
Honey comb 19-39 10-38 25-32 15-24 164-311
Towel
Huck-a-back 7 5 8 8 467
Bed sheets Single thread 19-32 5-35 14-26 8-17 141-262
Double 29-37 33-41 19-29 13-26 130-178
thread
Med/coarse 25-36 13-18 17-21 12-17 148-178
Medium 55 56 24 18 77
Gamchha
Fine/medium 64 51 24 19 86
 Breaking Elongation %
Types of Yarn count Strength (N) Range
Fabric used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Turkish 275-295 135-175 12-15 6-8
Honey comb 280-900 170-805 13-25 17-19
Towel
Huck-a-back 315 145 20 14
Bed Single thread 190-290 185-340 11-17 12-17
sheets Double thread 120-285 60-260 7-13 8-15
Med/coarse 205-340 160-320 18-22 12-18
Gamchha Medium 135 115 13 10
Fine/medium 120 265 14 10
 Tearing strength Fabric dimensions
Types of Yarn count (Kg) Range (cm) Range No of
Fabric used samples
Warp Weft Width Length tested
(Nm)
Turkish 3.5-4 3-3.5 67-68 128-136 2
Towel Honey comb 4-4.5 3-3.5 65-73 128-164 3
Huck-a-back BC BC 67 136 1
Bed Single thread BC BC 126-142 230-260 3
sheets Double thread 1.5-4 2-3.5 200-222 250-300 3
Med/coarse 1.5-5 1-4 75-76 160-165 2
Gamchha Medium 1.5 1 90 152 1
Fine/medium 1.5 1.5 90 308 1
 Metric count Thread density GSM
Types of Yarn count Range (per cm) (g/m2)
Fabric used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Curtain 2/34 33-34 30-31 16-29 12-16 100-143
14 24 17 26 19 225
Khes Single 20-32 3-9 12-26 7-9 200-367
Double 5-6 4-6 13-14 7-8 484-489
Loom 2-20 1-5 2-7 6-30 514-937
Dari Punja 2 1 17 3 1446
Polyvastra Dosuti 26 23-26 25-27 15-17 171-182
Coating Single 53-60 43-56 27 19-22 97-102
Shirting Double 22-46 22-49 18-41 17-28 131-168
 Breaking Elongation %
Types of Yarn count Strength (N) Range
Fabric used Range
(Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Curtain 2/34 205-415 175-215 6-8 2-19
14 235 290 13 15
Khes Single 140-350 120-425 10-12 10-14
Double 210-265 115-155 15-16 11-14
Loom 100-210 635-1015 5-10 16-27
Dari Punja 970 475 BC BC
Polyvastra Dosuti 1060-1090 650-770 15-18 14-22
Coating Single 400-405 230-415 10-13 14-26
Shirting Double 580-820 405-655 12-18 16-18
 Tearing strength Fabric dimensions
Types of Yarn count (Kg) Range (cm) Range No of
Fabric used samples
Warp Weft Width Length tested
(Nm)
Curtain 2/34 3-4.5 3-3.5 85-124 - 2
14 BC BC 80 - 1
Khes Single BC BC 120-125 220-225 3
Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 120-128 245-256 2
Loom BC BC 92-117 192-200 3
Dari Punja BC BC 131 208 1
Polyvastra Dosuti 3.5-4.5 3-4 71-72 - 2
Coating Single 1-2 1-2 117 - 2
Shirting Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 73-90 - 4

BC: Indicates beyond the capacity of the machine

 Table 12 Productivity of cotton yarn (gm/spl hr)

Sl No. Count (Nm) Production

(gm/spl hr)

1 6 62
2 14 42
3 35 12-13
4 45 12-13
5 50 12-13
6 80 7-8
7 100 7-8
8 150 2.5
Table 13 Productivity of cotton yarn (No. of hanks per 8 hour)

Count (Nm) Production (No. of

hanks per 8 hour)

Coarse 35-38

Medium 32-35

Fine 30-32
 Table 14 Productivity of cotton fabric [production/hr (mts)]

Metric count Thread density

Types of Grey width (Per inch) Production
fabric Warp Weft (Inches) Warp Weft (mts/hr)
Pajama 35/2 35/2 36 80 70 0.7
(Dosuti)
Pajama 35 35 36 48 44 0.8
(Eksuti)
Shirting 40 40 45 40 40 1
Shirting 40 40 36 50 46 0.75

Shirting 40 40 36 48 48 0.7

Shirting 44 44 54 40 36 1
Shirting 100/2 100/2 36 60 54 0.5

Shirting 60 60 45 60 54 1

Shirting 60 60 40 48 46 0.8
 Metric count Thread density
Types of Grey width (Per inch) Production
fabric Warp Weft (Inches) Warp Weft (mts/hr)
Shirting 60 60 45 56 54 0.75
Shirting 100 100 45 76 72 1
Shirting 100 100 45 76 45 0.75
Shirting 100 100 45 76 72 0.6

Shirting 100 100 36 76 72 0.7

Shirting 100 100 36 60 55 0.5

(Checks)
Bed 35/2 35/2 48 80 72 0.7
Sheet
(Do Suti)
Bed 26/2 4 60 30 30 1.2
Sheet
Bed 30/2 4 60 30 30 1
Sheet
(Twill)
 Metric count Thread density
Types of Grey width (Per inch) Production
fabric Warp Weft (Inches) Warp Weft (mts/hr)
Coating 32/2 32/2 34 40 36 1
Coating 56/2 56/2 38 56 50 0.9
Coating 70/3 70/3 34 56 50 0.8
(Poly)
Coating 70/3 70/3 34 56 50 1.5
(Poly)
Coating 32 32 28 40 40 1
(Bundy)
Denim 10 10 34 128 42 0.4

Dari 20/6 4/4 36 10 10 0.3

(3*6)
Dari 20/9 6/4 144 7 8 0.3
(9*12)
Dhoti 100 100 50 80 76 0.8
Dhoti 60 60 54 50 46 1
 Metric count Thread density
Types of Grey width (Per inch) Production
fabric Warp Weft (Inches) Warp Weft (mts/hr)
Saree 100 100 45 60 56 0.6
(Plain)
Saree 100 100 45 80 75 0.4
(Colour)
Saree 60 60 45 40 45 1
(Patta)
Saree 60 60 45 40 40 0.7
with
Border
Lungi 40 40 45 48 46 0.8
Lungi 60 60 45 40 40 0.7
Lungi 34 34 46 40 40 1
(Colour)
Towel 20/2 34/2 36 34 34 1
(Mat)
Dupatta 56 56 36 40 38 1
 Essential Test Equipments Required for
Routine Quality Checking
Fibre
Sl Name of the Property BIS
No. Instrument assessed Standard
1 Baer sorter Fibre length IS 10014 (Part
1): 1984
2 Fibre fineness tester Fibre fineness IS 3674: 1966
(Micronaire
value)
3 Wrap reel for Sliver / roving -
sliver/roving count
 Yarn

Sl Name of the Property BIS

No. Instrument assessed Standard
1 Wrap reel Lea formation -

2 Lea strength tester Lea strength IS 1671: 1977

(CSP)
3 Twist tester (Single The amount of IS 832: 1985
& double yarn) twist per cm or
inch
4 Yarn board winder Appearance IS 1671: 1977
grading of yarn
 Fabric

Sl Name of the Property to be BIS

No. Instrument measured Standard
1 Pick glass Thread density IS 1963: 1981

2 Measuring tape Length & width -

3 Fabric strength Strength IS 1969: 1985

tester
4 Round cutter GSM -
 Chemical processing
Sl Name of the Property to be BIS Standard
No. Instrument measured
1 Light fastness Light fastness IS 2454: 1985
tester
2 Launderometer Washing fastness IS 687, IS 3361,
IS 764, IS 765,
IS 3417
3 Crockmeter Rubbing fastness IS 105

4 Shrinkage Dimensional IS 10099: 1982

Template changes
5 Spectrophotometer Whiteness -
measurement