FASHION BUSINESS COMMUNICATION

Syllabus
Unit:1 World of Fashion- An Overview
Factors influencing fashion changes – Accelerating and Decelerating factors
Understanding Fashion designer – types – classicist, idealist, influenced, realist,
thinking poet. Minimalists, Village India, Studio line. World Fashion Centers –
Milan, Paris, London and New York
Unit:2 Legendary Fashion Designers
Study of International Fashion Designers of the World – Yves Saint
Laurent, Valentino, Pierre Cardin, Ralph Lauren, Karl Lagerfeld, Donna Karen,
Georgio Armani, Coco Chanel, Calvin Klien, Christian Dior. An overview of
Indian Fashion Designers – Manish Malhotra, Manish Arora, Ritu Beri, Tarun
Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Wendell Rodricks, JJ Valaya.
Unit:3 Fashion Products and Promotion
The fashion industry and new product development; product mix and range
planning. Fashion and Seasons. Fashion Promotion – Fashion Communication;
Fashion Advertising and Publicity; Personal Selling – importance and steps
involved; Fashion Shows – types and steps involved in organizing a show; Sales
promotion methods /strategies.
Unit:4 Fashion Retailing
Fashion Retailing - Scope and functions, Types of Stores, Challenges for
fashion retail in India, E- retailing – growth and development, Major players of
fashion goods online. Pricing policies and strategies for apparel products,
Functions and factors Influencing pricing, pricing strategies for new products,
methods of setting prices
Unit:5 Sustainable Fashion
Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance; Environmental concerns
related to fashion; Linear fashion and circular fashion; 4R’s in sustainability –
Repair, recycle, reuse and reduce. Eco fashion, Slow fashion; Environmental
impact of fast fashion.
 Unit:1

World of Fashion- An Overview

 Factors influencing fashion changes – Accelerating and Decelerating factors
Understanding Fashion designer – types – classicist, idealist, influenced,
realist, thinking poet. Minimalists, Village India, Studio line. World Fashion
Centers – Milan, Paris, London and New York.

Factors influencing fashion:

 Fashion, by nature, is a dynamic and transient culture, which keeps changing
in time and space. In fact, if we talk about the permanent thing, there is
hardly anything on the planet earth, which has such property, everything
keeps changing. Since, human mind is also part of this planet; so, it also
seeks changes in terms of place of living, food, and of course cloth or
fashion. People want to have new styles and new fashions.
 But such changes are not essentially and always because of people’s wishes,
but rather there are many other causes that influence fashion.

Factors That Influence Fashion

 Human nature, of course, is one of the most important reasons for changing
fashion, as it always demands new and trendy products. But along with it,
the following are some other significant factors that influence fashion:

1. Psychological Factor

2. Social Factor

3. Economic Factor

4. Cultural Factor
5. Political Factor

6. Environmental Factor

7. Physiological Factor

Psychological Factor

 Psychological factor is an important factor that influences a person to follow

a trend or may influence the opposite. In other words, everyone follows the
jeans and shirt, but one person prefers to wear pajama kurta (the ethnic
wear). So, it expresses individuality and does not get influenced by society.
Likewise, many times, it gives importance to personal choice instead of
following the trends.

Social Factor

 Social factor is one of the most significant factors that influence fashion
frequently and expansively. Its area is pretty wide and includes many
factors, such as place of living (urban area or rural area), educational and
cultural background, status in society, gender, profession, and, of course,
occasions. These factors, sometimes influence separately or sometimes
collectively.
Economic Factor
 Interestingly, fashion is one of the indicators that reflects the financial
condition of a person in his society and economic condition of country in the
whole world. Fashion reflects the availability of raw materials, level of
infrastructure, and technological advancement in a particular country. So, if
a country is rich and developed, fashion in that country will be luxurious. On
the other hand, fashion in developing or underdeveloped countries, is at a
very low level.

Cultural Factor

 Culture is the traditions and practices that a society of a particular region

follows in a given period in time. Every society has its own culture; hence,
not only fashion influences culture, but rather culture also influences fashion
vice-versa. For example, an old man who always wore pajama kurta (the
traditional dress) started wearing track suits, jeans, etc.

Political Factor

 Directly or indirectly, political factor also plays an important role in

influencing fashion. Time to time, government keep changing the law,
economic policies, and political policies, all these factors, collectively
influence fashion. For example, in the early 1990s, liberalization,
globalization, and privatization of the Indian economy encouraged many
foreign fashion companies to launch their products in India, which greatly
influenced fashion.
Environmental Factor

 Environmental factor largely includes seasons, like the winter season, which
have entirely different clothing styles, influences fashion; the summer
season, in this season, people prefer to wear only light cotton shirts and
pants, t-shirts, jeans, etc.; and in rainy season, people prefer to have
differently designed raincoats and other waterproof cloth.
Physiological Factor

 It includes age, skin color, body structure, height of the person, etc. With
growing age, people change their choices. So, fashion is essentially guided
by such principles as well.

Some other factors that influence fashion are:

 Dominating events: some of the significant events, like war, big national
level cultural events, fashion events/shows, etc. influence fashion.

Influence of celebrities: most of the youngsters in society, get easily influenced

by the film stars, sports persons, musicians, and other celebrity kind of people. In
fact, the dressing style, walking, speaking, and appearance styles of these
celebrities are very important factors that influence especially youngsters and they
seek same designs and brands.

Geographical Factors: geography involves many factors, but significant among

them are, of course, relief features and the location of the region (either located in a
hilly region, or along the bank of a river, desert, etc.). All these factors influence
fashion.

Technological Advancement: technology not only helped researchers and

scholars to research new things, but also influenced fashion designers. By using
technology, fashion designers create designs virtually and then decide whether it is
worth it to materialize or not.
Accelerating and Decelerating factors:
Accelerating factors:

● Communications and mass media,

● Good economic conditions,
● Increased competition,
● Technological advances,
● Social and physical mobility,
● More leisure time,
● Higher levels of education,
● Changing roles of women,
● Seasonal changes

Decelerating factors:

● Bad economic conditions (consumers have less money to spend)

● Cultural customs (passing down traditional clothing; not buying new)
● Religion (fashion may lead to corruption and temptation)
● Laws/government regulations (tariffs, quotas)
● Disruptive world events (droughts, wars, terrorism).

Understanding Fashion designer

 Fashion designers work in a variety of different ways when designing their
pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Due
to the time required to put a garment out in the market, designers must
anticipate changes to consumer desires. Fashion designers are responsible
for creating looks for individual garments, involving shape, color, fabric,
trimming, and more.
 Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as
aesthetically pleasing. They consider who is likely to wear a garment and the
situations in which it will be worn, and they work within a wide range of
materials, colors, patterns, and styles. Though most clothing worn for
everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual
 garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or
party dresses.
 Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of haute
couture or bespoke tailoring. Today, most clothing is designed for the mass
market, especially casual and everyday wear, which are commonly known as
ready to wear or fast fashion.

TYPES OF FASHION DESIGNER

CLASSICIST
 These type of designers are produce design following the traditional designs,
colours, silhouette and other design details like embroidery, bead work, etc.
 The classist designer is one who is responsible for radical fashion changes in
fashion industry.

IDEALIST
 They want to be ideal in the fashion industry.
 Their designs also differ from other designs.
 Their works are out of touch with reality.
 This stare creation is only worthy for ramp shows, not for real life.
INFLUENCED
 They are copied from some other designs which was already existing in the
market.
 They have very little to offer by their own creativity.
 They make some alterations in the existing design and produce the new
designs with their own label.
 They don't want to take too much of risk.
REALIST

 They are the role models for influenced designers.

 These designers are most important persons for the success of fashion
industry.
 They produce designs with their own ideas.
 When compared to other designers their works on time consuming works.

THINKING

 The mission in fashion designing is to express himself.

 They also supplies lot of creative ideas for other fellow designs.

 The thinking designer also holds the responsibility of educating the

consumer in experimenting with unusual fabric choice.

POETIC
 They regard the consumer as an extension of his creativity.
 The first activity of this kind of designers is to recognize the choice of
consumers and then perform designers.
 They spend more time on accessing real interest and needs of the consumers.

WORLD FASHION CENTRE

 The ‘BIG FOUR” London, Paris, New York, and Milan. These are the
fashion capitals of the world. The fashion capitals are the cities that have a
major influence on international fashion trends, designs, production, and
retailing. Also on the events that have a huge impact on the economic
output. These are events such as award ceremonies, trade fairs, and most
importantly fashion weeks.
  London, Paris, New York, and Milan hold the most important role in the
fashion world. Fashion capitals normally have a wide blend of business,
imagination, amusement, social, and recreation exercises. And are also
universally perceived for having a novel and solid personality.

 There are individual reasons as to why these four are famous and considered
the fashion capitals. Let’s know why:

Paris
 From the 17th to the 21st century, Paris has remained a fashion capital.
Why?

 Best designs – Paris has some of the best designers in the world. Namely,
Vuitton, Balenciaga, Céline, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy,
Chloe, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Hermès and Lanvin.
 The Golden Triangle- Dior to Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent. New York has
all hot couture houses.
 Paris Fashion Week is a very well-known reason why Paris is a fashion
capital. It is the final fashion week that decides what trends will be present in
the coming season.

London
 The language obstruction or absence of it plays a huge part in building up
urban communities like London as the worldwide capitals of fashion.
London is full of individuals from vivid backgrounds, and this multicultural
perspective made originators who are situated in London stick out. This
trademark and the unmistakable items, with regards to fashion, permits
London to rival the remainder of the huge fashion capitals.
  London’s DNA has streetwear in it. Its history has a street culture that is
visible across its fashion landscape.
 London is fiercely independent and diverse. It is above all when it comes to
diversity across all statures in fashion.
 No gender barriers. London fashion breaks all gender barriers. New
designers completely disregard the stereotypical norms of gender.

New York
 Paris is not the only trendsetter. New York also is. People living in New
York know how integral fashion is. It is the first to host the fashion week.

 Synonym for big brands and high-end lifestyle

 Young, cool yet sporty, and saleable touch
 Most casual of all the fashion weeks

Milan
 One of the “Fours”, Milan has something as so-called Milan houses.

 Its contributions to some of the best designers made it a fashion capital.

 The words that describe it are enchanting and instigating.
 Milan fashion week is unique and flexes on sex appeal
 The style business turns for a significant stretch of years since the history of
mankind’s set of experiences. It has been known to exist together with
human culture for an extensive stretch. The style business is a powerful
industry, which is a result of history and ‘a true term that relies upon setting
to give it its passionate characteristics.’ For a long time, London, Paris, New
York, and Milan have been considered as the urban communities which
house the beginning of fashion and subsequently have been viewed as the
fashion capitals of the world for a really long time.
 Unit:2
Legendary Fashion Designers
 Study of International Fashion Designers of the World – Yves Saint
Laurent, Valentino, Pierre Cardin, Ralph Lauren, Karl Lager field, Donna
Karen, Georgio Armani, Coco Chanel, Calvin Klien, Christian Dior. An
overview of Indian Fashion Designers – Manish Malhotra, Manish Arora,
Ritu Beri, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Wendell Rodricks, JJ Valaya.

Study of International Fashion Designers of the World

Yves Saint Laurent

 Yves Saint Laurent gained popularity in the world of fashion due to his
creativity in redesigning masculine clothing into beautiful, feminine pieces
for women. Perhaps one of the most renowned designers in France, Yves
was the first designer to introduce <power dressing= for women in the form
of trendy, high fashion power suits in 1966. The visionary is credited with
designing the men9s smoking jacket. His refreshing concept of ready-to-
wear fashion has allowed him to make history during his legendary time

Valentino Garavani
 Born in Italy in 1932, Valentino Garavani studied fashion design at a young
age, training in Paris in 1950 and starting his own fabulous line in Rome in
1959 after working for impressive houses like Dessus and Laroche.
Valentino is celebrated for his profound ability to make women look utterly
glamourous. The Italian maestro dressed influential women, such as
Jacqueline Kennedy, and goes down in history for his signature fabric
shade, Valentino Red.

Pierre Cardin
 The Italian-born Frenchman is praised for his 20thcentury pieces that exuded
a futuristic flair. As Pierre Cardin rose to fame in the age of the space race,
his creations embodied the perfect touch of innovation, inventiveness, and
 modishness. His 8bubble dresses9 radiated science fiction, combining
earthly elegance with out-of-this-world colors and avant-garde design

Ralph Lauren (Born 1939)

 American fashion designer, mainly build his brand as an elite American
lifestyle brand that made it a globally successful fashion empire. In 1968, he
named his first full line of menswear 8Polo9. He explains his style, <I9m
interested in longevity, timelessness, style—not fashion.= He is a notable
philanthropist

Karl Lagerfeld
 One of the most acclaimed fashion designers in the world, Karl Lagerfeld
was born in Hamburg, Germany. As a teenager, Lagerfeld worked at
Balmain for four years before moving to Jean Patou where he became
artistic director at 21. His prolific portfolio now encompasses Chanel and
Fendi along with his own house. Known for his bold designs and constant
reinvention, he9s been hailed by Vogue magazine as the <unparalleled
interpreter of the mood of the moment.= King Karl, the one-man
multinational fashion phenomenon

 Donna Karan (Born 1948) Full name Donna Ivy Faske is an American
Designer. Globally known for her acclaimed comfort and simplicity
integrated fashion designs of the clothes. In 1988, debuted the DKNY line
under the Donna Karan Co. She was particularly distinguished for her
signature bodysuits, dark tights, fitted jackets, and heavy pieces of jewellery.

 Armani (Born 1934) Italian fashion designer, mainly known for an

extremely luxurious, elegant and relaxed style of design. In 1975, he
launched his label for men and women ready-to-wear, later diversified into
music, sport and luxury hotels. He expresses his fashion philosophy as, <I
was the first to soften the image of men and harden the image of women. I
 dressed men in womens fabrics, and stole from men what women wanted
and needed—the power suit.

 Coco Chanel (1883-1971) For almost six decades this French fashion
designer ruled Parisian haute couture. Her stylishly simple designs
encouraged women of fashion to desert the complex, painful clothes, that
were prevalent in the 19th-century like petticoats and corsets. She
believed <luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury,= Her
designs focus on simplicity and comfort and later her fashion belief
revolutionized the whole fashion industry. Chanel suit, the quilted
purse, costume jewellery, and the <little black dress= are some of her best
innovations and contribution to women fashion. Perfume 8Chanel No. 59,
which she introduced in 1921 became the financial basis of this brand. One
of the most influential, Karl Lagerfeld led Chanel9s couture house with
tenure (1983–2019), after her death

 Klein (Born 1942) American fashion designer eminent for his design of
jeans, womenswear, menswear, cosmetics and perfumes, bath & bed linens,
and other fashion collections. He established Calvin Klein Inc. in 1968. He
expressed his design philosophy as <simple, comfortable but stylish clothes
—but with nothing over scale or extreme.= His label clothes were fairly
pricey, classic and elegant. Notably easy to wear and highly appreciated by
fashion enthusiasts in the US and other countries.

 Christian Dior (1905-1957) French fashion designer ruled the fashion world
during world war two. He revolutionized fashion and introduced some
variety of new silhouettes, together with H-line, A-line, and Y-line. In 1947,
he introduced the ground-breaking new look, igniting international
controversy over its drastically lowered hemline. The look featured
small shoulders, a cinched waist, and a voluminous skirt.
Indian Fashion Designers
Manish Malhotra:
 Over the past few years, Manish Malhotra has become synonymous with
Indian fashion. He is an ace fashion designer who has designed many
Bollywood, Tollywood and even Hollywood movies. Manish was born in
1966 and started his career as a runway model. The Mumbai-born designer
launched his namesake label “Manish Malhotra” in 2005 and opened
multiple stores in the country.

 Manish’s clothing line features a generous dose of glamour through his

usage of contemporary colours, modern embroideries and edgy designs.
Popular Bollywood celebrities like Alia Bhatt, Jhanvi Kapoor, Kareena
Kapoor etc., prefer Manish Malhotra over other designers for his
distinctively modern and sensual outfits. He also won the “Best Costume
Designer Award” several times for his stunning creations in many iconic
films like “Kal Ho Na Ho”, “Kabhi Kushi Kabhi Gham”, etc.

Manish Arora
 Manish Arora is a Delhi-based fashion designer renowned for the usage of
strikingly bold colour palettes and Kitsch motifs that transform garments
into wearable pieces of art. Manish started his design career in 1997 after
graduating from NIFT, New Delhi, and launching his label “Manish Arora”.
He expanded his business by launching his flagship store, ‘Manish Arora
Fish Fry’.

 Fashion experts often regard Manish Arora as the “King of Avant-Garde”

for his sophisticated and modern designs. His psychedelic prints combined
with outlandish patterns exemplify his unique taste and sensibilities. Apart
from dressing up Indian celebrities, Manish also designed outfits for
international celebs like Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry etc.
Ritu Beri
 Ritu Beri is one of the eminent fashion designers of India who launched her
label in 1990. She is the first in many aspects, including the first Indian
designer to be featured in PROMOSTYL, a style magazine, the first Indian
Designer to do a fashion show in Paris and the first Asian to become the
head of a French Fashion brand.

 Ritu was also the protege of the French legend Francois Lesage, and her
creative talent was applauded by many top-league fashion designers of the
world. She was also mentioned as the “First Lady of Fashion in India” by
Time Magazine, indicating her stature in the fashion industry. Ritu is famous
for giving an Indian expression to contemporary clothing and converting
them into client-pleasing ensembles.

Tarun Tahiliani
 Tarun Tahiliani is India’s first fashion designer who has created a name for
himself in the global fashion arena. His career in designing began in 1987
after co-founding Ensemble, India’s first multi-designer boutique with his
wife, Shailaja Tahiliani. Within a short span of time, Tarun emerged as one
of the country’s biggest designers and launched several collections that
range from traditional silhouettes to western ensembles.
 Over the last few years, Tarun has also created a mark for himself in the
Indian Bridal Wear segment. His clothing line features a lot of gilded
opulence through various embroidery techniques and fabrics that resonate
with the evolving tastes of his clientele.

Rohit Bal

 Rohit Bal is a famous Indian fashion designer who is best known for his use
of traditional Indian motifs like the Lotus, Peacock etc., in his clothing.
Rohit was born in Kashmir in 1961 and started his career in 1986 in New
Delhi with Men’s wear segment. Soon he expanded his collections to
women’s wear and accessories like eyewear, bags etc. Rohit is renowned for
 using rich and opulent fabrics like brocades, velvet etc. which lend grandeur
to the outfit.

 His international clientele includes popular celebrities like Cindy Crawford,

Pamela Anderson and Uma Thurman, who regularly sport his designs on the
red carpets. Rohit also won several awards the ‘Designer of the Year’ in
2001 and 2006 and winning the Lakme Grand Finale Designer in 2012.

Wendell Rodricks
 Wendell Rodricks (28 May 1960 – 12 February 2020) was an Indian fashion
designer and author based in the Indian state of Goa. He was also an activist
for social causes, environment and gay rights. In 2014, the Government of
India conferred upon him its fourth-highest civilian award, the Padma Shri.
Rodricks began his career in fashion by designing for Garden Vareli, Lakmé
Cosmetics and DeBeers. When in Paris with his first portfolio in hand, he
was advised to put "your country in your clothes". He launched his own
label in 1989 with his first show held at the Regal Room of the Oberoi
Hotel, Mumbai.

JJ Valaya
 JJ Valaya (born 8 October 1967) is an Indian fashion designer and couturier
from New Delhi, India. He founded the House of Valaya, a luxury fashion
and lifestyle house in 1992, along with his brother TJ Singh. A founding
member of Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and the first global
brand ambassador of Crystal giant Swarovski. He has been designing for
over 20 years. As a fine art photographer, he released his first book,
Decoded Paradox in 2011. In the same year, he also closed the day one of
the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) winter/festive 2011 where he debuted a
fashion collection inspired by photography.
 Unit:3
Fashion Products and Promotion
 The fashion industry and new product development; product mix and range
planning. Fashion and Seasons. Fashion Promotion – Fashion
Communication; Fashion Advertising and Publicity; Personal Selling –
importance and steps involved; Fashion Shows – types and steps involved in
organizing a show; Sales promotion methods /strategies.

 Fashion sales promotional programme for apparel marketing,

communication in prop motion, Personal selling, point of purchase. Fashion
Advertising and preparation of advertising for apparel market , Advertising
media used in apparel market, Apparel & Textile Trade shows and
fairs .Advertising department and advertising agencies – structure and
functions . Advertising Budget.

AIMS AND OBJECTIVES

 We here discuss about in general instructions on fashion advertising,
methods used in fashion marketing industry, benefits and limitations of
advertising agencies, their merits and demerits, the advertising department,
structure and function of advertising agencies and preparing budget for
advertisement. After going through the unit, it will be easy to understanding
the fashion advertising
INTRODUCTION
 The present era is of mass production and mass distribution. Similar
products are taken to the market. This involves stiff competition amongst the
producers. Many firms adopt the vigorous means to maintain their existence
in the market, as there are many substitutes in the market.
 This tendency is a struggle for the producers for their survival in the modern
business world. In the present business world, suitable publicity is done
through advertising, which is adopted by commercial and industrial
undertakings and almost all types of concerns. Therefore advertisement is a
method of publicity. Advertisement has the prominent place among the
 techniques of mass education and persuasion on the public. It is not a
modern origin. It has been used from immemorial period.
 Advertising helps the consumer to save their time in purchasing. It also
helps the manufacturers to sell their products. Hence quick selling is
possible which leads to more production at less cost. The relation between
wholesalers and retailers is improved through advertising. Advertising
introduces new products, stimulates markets regarding the existing product
and repeated sales. Thus advertising is advantageous to the following groups
of people.
FASHION ADVERTISING
 Above the line, paid-for advertising in fashion is relatively low in
comparison with other goods (e.g. FMCGs – fast moving consumer goods),
which probably reflects the fact that less money is spent by consumers on
fashion than on food, transport, leisure, fuel, housing, etc.
 Fashion companies have traditionally relied on their stores, i.e. their physical
presence in the market place, being a showcase for their products; however,
as competition has increased this marketing tool (the store itself) has not had
as much impact. If the consumer does not see or visit your store because
they think it is not the store for them, then presence alone is not enough.
Fashion stores therefore advertise in order to stand out from very similar
stores carrying similar merchandise.
Television advertising
 This is the most expensive method of advertising because it reaches the
highest number of people. However, for fashion retailers it is not always cost
effective as the fashion consumer or the target market may not see the
advert, it may be lost among other non fashion adverts and it cannot always
show the full range of items available in, for example, a short three-minute
commercial. Television advertising is, however, a useful medium for brand
image creation. For many fashion companies targeting specific programs
which are likely to be watched by the target may give some precision. MTV
(Music Television), which is now available on a global basis, gives an
opportunity for the promotion of international brands such as Levi‘s and
Nike.
Magazine advertising

 Advertising in magazines is by far the most effective method of above the

line (paid- for) advertising as it can finely tuned to the target market of the
magazine. Magazines provide media packs, which outline their target market
and pricing strategy. For example, Vogue is renowned as a style bible all
over the world and has been very clearly defined target market:

 To be in Vogue is to be in fashion‘. The media pack given demographic

details on the age profile social classification, income level and education of
its core readership, and a lifestyle profile is provided for their potential
advertisers. The Vogue reader ‗is style conscious… Enjoys an effluent,
active lifestyle‘, dining out, pursuing cultural activities, taking frequent
holidays and, of course, shopping at up market stores, spending on clothes.

 In addition, there are very specific comparisons with other magazines and
instructions and costs associated with advertising in the publication. There is
also an offer to bring advertisers together with complementary products to
share the costs of a Vogue promotion; this is co-operative advertising and
can be useful for advertisers who cannot afford the full cost (sourced from
the Vogue Media Pack).

 A fashion brand/retailer can be fairly confident when advertising in specific

magazines that they can match their target market with the magazine target
market and therefore not waste the advertising budget.
PREPARATION OF ADVERTISING FOR APPAREL MARKET
 Theme is the subject matter of advertisement. A theme represents a
particular view- point or a central idea with which the message is conveyed
to the public. An advertisement copy should bridge the gap between the
advertiser and the readers, if it is to be effective. To achieve this, the
advertisement has to provide the audience the information that is of interest
to them.
 The two features of ―message‖ are ―message structure‖ and
―message ap eal.‖ Message structure contains details (selling points) of
the products and consumers‘ needs and benefits.
 A two-sided argument is effective in winning over an audience. The
―message appeal‖ is the feature which brings about attitude change
on the part of audience. The message appeals can be grouped broadly into
two categories;
The product-oriented appeals:
 They may emphasis the physical features or the functions of the product or
may attempt a comparison of the product with the other brands available in
the market
 The consumer-oriented appeals:
 They on the other hand, are directed at the audience‘s attitude, faiths and
beliefs. It may emphasis the attitudinal and behavioral patterns of the
audience, the life styles of the audience or their social image. In actual
practice, messages quite often combine the product appeal and consumer
appeal. The theme has an arresting quality, i.e., it is capable of capturing
attention of the people. In selecting a theme, all necessary information about
consumers and about the product to be advertised must be collected with
proper details.
 In collecting the details about consumers, information about the attitude and
aspiration of genuine prospect for the product should be particularly known.
Information about the product should include, characteristics of the product,
benefits expected to the consumers and over the rival‘s products. Themes
may change as the market conditions change. The theme or appeal points out
the most important reason or driving force to the purchase of a certain
product or service. It is an appeal based on human emotion, feelings,
sentiments, needs, desire etc.
  We have the following common appeals with which advertising message can
be effectively communicated, in brief:
 The Theme of Beauty
 The Theme of Health
 The Theme of Pride
 The Theme of Comfort
 The Theme of Economy
 The Theme of Fear
 The Theme of Emulation
 The Theme of Distinction
 The Theme of Affection
 The Theme of Patriotism
 In modern times, advertising is used by men in various walks of life.
Littlefield and Kirkpatrick observe that:
 Advertising is not a game, for here when advertising is done properly and
profitably, both buyer and seller benefit.
 Advertising is not a toy, for advertising funds come from sales volume and,
therefore efforts are made to increase sales.
 Advertising is not a racket, only few advertisements are designed to deceive,
majority are based on honesty.
 Advertising is not an exact science, for the sales are affected by number of
factors such as competitors decisions, manufacturers‘ promotional activities,
change in price, personnel or policies etc. and these factors cannot be
controlled as a physical scientist may control the experiments.
ADVERTISING MEDIA USED IN APPAREL MARKET
 Medium is a means through which the advertising message is conveyed to
the consumers. The proper selection of the medium, by which the message is
to be conveyed, must achieve the pre-determined goals. In brief, the
following facts, which affect the media, may be considered:
 Should the advertisement reach and influence the largest portion of the
people?
 Should it be possible to influence the pre-determined group of buyers?
 Should it give a wide coverage at less cost?
There are some important factors, which are also to be considered:
The characteristics of the product and its demand
 Fund available for advertising.
 Nature of the market i.e., different segments.
 The nature and extent of competition prevailing.
 Medium to be adopted
 Coverage of the medium.
 The product‘s nature
 The position of the product in the market.
 Size of the advertisement.
 The probable cost of advertising.
 The media to be adopted, along with merits and demerits are discussed in
detail below
Indoor Advertising
o Press Media
o Newspaper
(a). Magazine (b). Radio
(c). Television (d). Film
Outdoor Advertising
(a) Mural (posters), (b) Advertising board, (c) Vehicular, (d) Painted display, (e)
Traveling display, (f) Electric display, (g) Sky advertising, (h) Sandwich-man, (i)
Handbills (leaflets).
Direct Advertising
(a) Sales letters, (b) Circular letters, (c) Booklets and catalogues, (d) Folders, (e)
Package inserts & f) Store publications
Promotional Advertising
(a) Window display (b) Interior display (c) Show-rooms (d) Exhibitions.
1.3.1. Indoor Advertising
 When advertising is made through newspapers, magazines, radio, T.V.
Programmers or cinema programmed in Video etc., so that people can get
the message at home, it is known as Indoor advertisement. People read or
listen to the advertisement when they are in door.
 People can be benefited by indoor advertising as they can read the
newspapers or see television programmed when they are having leisure time.
Indoor advertising can be studied under the following headings.
Press Media:
 Advertisement in newspapers, magazines, journals etc., can be called as
press advertising. It is the most popular and widely used means of
advertising. It is the most economical media of advertisement. Growth of
literacy and development of press also pave the way for these press media.
 Following are the Characteristics of press media.
 Wide coverage is possible.
 Varieties of advertising are possible.
 It is more effective for all purposes.
 Reaching of the advertisements can be judged easily.
 Detailed and informative sales programme is possible
 Permanency and mobility of publication are possible.
 It is economical
 It is quick in action
 It has a longer life (magazine, journal etc.)
Detailed address and telephone number can also be given
1. Newspapers
 There is no doubt that the newspapers are the best and popular medium for
advertising. It reaches every nook and corner of the country. It is the most
powerful selling force. In India, there are many languages. Newspapers are
being published in 91 languages. According to statistics, ―Indian Express‖
daily newspaper is published from 10 places and prints 5,67,8801 copies,
―The times of India‖ is published from 3 places and prints 5,30,565 copies
daily and ―Malayalam Manorama‖ prints 5,27,657 copies. There is one
paper,
 ―Andha Bazaar‖ (Bengali) which prints 4, 02,491 copies in Calcutta alone.
Apart from this, newspapers are published in different languages. Current
news can be known and a large number of people go through them. Different
types of newspapers are existing. They are National Dailies, Regional
Dailies, Evening Dailies, and National Weeklies etc. When the literacy rate
is increasing, this medium can easily be adopted for good result through
advertising.

Merits
 Newspapers are having a large demand and wide coverage.
 The cost of newspaper is less when compared to its use.
 Wide publicity is possible.
 It contains interesting matter for everybody. ‗Business news‘ for men,
‗Ladies page‘ for women, ‗Fashion page‘ for youngster, ‗comics and
puzzles‘ for children etc. as such it assures readership.
 Speedy preparation and publication of advertising is possible.
 Newspapers are read daily and hence continuous publicity is possible
 It makes quick results. The public response is quick. Advertisement given by
sellers reaches the public quickly and they act accordingly.
 Regular and frequent advertisement is possible.
 It is flexible i.e., number of pages and shape of the advertisement can also be
changed.
 It is suitable for direct and indirect selling.
 Lengthy matter for advertisement can be given
 In local newspapers, preference is given to the advertisement of local
products
 Effectiveness of advertisement can be estimated.
 Selection of market is possible.
 It is newsy apart from timely
 Demerits
 It is having the shortest life. ―Today‘s newspaper is tomorrow‘s waste
paper.‖
 Frequent advertisement is required lest it should become ineffective.
 Newspaper advertising is affected by the illiteracy of the public. It affects
the utility of newspapers also; the effectiveness is questionable.
 Chances for display and demonstration are much rare.
 People read newspapers in a hurry. Hence they do not take notice of the
advertisement. Hence advertisement becomes a waste.
2. Magazines and Journals
 These are periodically published. They are published weekly, fortnightly or
monthly. Magazines are read leisurely. Magazines are published according
to the tastes or liking of the public. There are different types of magazines.
 General Magazines: General Magazines are read in easy-chairs. There is
generally a lengthy advertisement. The standard of reproduction is also in a
better way. They give more interesting and a longer duration. E.g.,
illustrated weekly, Blitz etc.
 Specialists Magazines: They are technical journals and professional journals.
Technicians read technical journals, Doctors, lawyers, accountants etc., read
professional journals. There are special magazines for industry, banking,
politics, religion, agriculture, insurance, transport literature etc. Special
magazines for women and children are also available.
 Special Issues: Diwali (or) Deepavali, Directory (Telephone Directory) are
also published which contain a large number of advertisements along with
articles, stories, special features etc. some magazines enjoy national and
international circulations.
Merits
 It is having longer life than newspapers. Hence it is a great help to
advertisement.
 It is having greater reference value of advertisement.
 Colour advertisement attracts the people very much.
 It s published for selected people. As such, it is having a high degree of
selectivity.
Ex. Famina is meant for women. Medical journals for doctors etc.
  Cost is also comparatively low.
 Advertisement in standard magazines creates a national image for the
product, e.g., Reader‘s Digest. Illustrated Weekly etc.
 It satisfies the need of a particular class of people, say ―Commerce‖ for
business.
 Magazines guarantee uniformity of coverage.

Demerits
 It is less flexible
 Limited circulation. It reaches only a limited section of people.
 It is costly. High quality paper, colours and preparation cost of magazines
are high.
 As such, the cost of advertising is also high.
 Introduction of a new product is ineffective, as it takes time to advertise the
new products. Hence timely information of arrival of a product is not
possible.
 Advance planning is needed to advertise in the magazine. As such advance
submission of advertisement is necessary.
 It is not suitable for regional advertising. For example, Reader‘s Digest is
unsuitable for regional advertising.
3. Radio
 Radio is the quickest medium of advertising when compared to newspapers
or magazines. Sound moves faster than other media. It is a popular medium
of advertising for a commercial firm. Radio makes its appeal to the ear.
Commercial radio broadcasting has become popular and is widely used in all
countries. It is also popular in India and the radio has started playing an
important role as one of the media of advertising. It plays its role well,
especially in rural areas where newspapers cannot reach. The maximum
number of radio sets is in Tamil Nadu, followed by Maharashtra, West
Bengal, and Gujarat. Further, transistorized radio brightens the scope of
advertising.
Merits
 Coverage and appeal are wide
 It is the best means for illiterate people.
 Spoken words are more effective than written words.
 It is flexible and timely.
 It adds to the prestige of the advertiser.
 Spot programs can be arranged.
Demerits
 It is quite costly
 Only limited time will be allowed.
 In many cases, listeners may be irritated with the commercial
advertisements.
 The effectiveness of advertising cannot be measured.
4. Television
 It is of recent origin. It is more popular in advanced countries especially in
the U.S.A. In Delhi the first television centre was set up in 1962, followed
by Bombay, Calcutta, Lucknow, Madras etc. Television advertising is the
latest medium of mass communication and is widely used for advertisement.
It is an audio-visual medium, because one can see and hear. The maximum
numbers of television sets are in Maharashtra followed by Delhi.
Merits
 It appeals to the eye and the ear
 People are impressed by pictorial presentation
 Interest is further boosted by introducing color televisions.
 It has the characteristics of a salesman
Demerits
 It is an expensive medium
 The impact of advertising cannot be measured
 It is suitable only for large firms
5. Film
 The effects of television medium and film medium are the same. Film
advertising is also advantageously used by advertiser. Cinema is an audio-
visual medium of communication and offers opportunities to advertisers for
 screening commercial films and slides. In India, there are about 7000 cinema
houses and 3,500 touring cinemas (approximate).
 The maximum number of cinema houses is in Andhra Pradesh, followed by
Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Uttar Pradesh and Kerala. The maximum number
of touring cinemas is in Tamil Nadu, followed by Andhra Pradesh and
Kerala. For almost all consumer goods manufacturers are advantageously
using this medium.
Merits
 It can create a good impact on the audience.
 It covers all classes of people-poor, middle and rich.
 Explanation and demonstration are possible
 It has a wide appeal.
Demerits
 Producing a film is costly
 Effectiveness cannot be measured.
 The co-operation of theatre owners is essential.
 The audience becomes irritated, where more such advertising films are
shown.
 Only cine goers can be covered.

Outdoor Advertising
 Outdoor advertising passes the message to those people who are moving
audience. Generally almost all the people go out on some purpose or other-
office, walk, sightseeing, journey, park visit etc. This outdoor advertising
has the best effects of advertising.
Mural Advertising (Posters):
 At present this is a common form of advertising. The posters are made in
attractive colours in brief and printed. The poster is a sheet of paper. The
matter is depicted on it. Then the prepared posters are pasted on walls or
boards. Film showers use this medium for advertising and the posters are
pasted in such a manner that they are projected to the people at bus stand,
railway station, marketplace, parks, libraries, and crowded areas. The cost is
less.
  It is flexible. It has a short life, because in cities, posters pasted in the
morning, may disappear in the evening by pasting new papers on them. In
certain places like cities, the space has to be hired for pasting posters.
Advertising Boards:
 These are also posters, but have better status than ordinary posters. The
boards are fixed at the areas where people frequently assemble. Such boards
are fixed at decent and neat places. They appear more attractive than posters.
Vehicular Advertising:
 This moving advertisement finds place on vehicles-buses, trains etc. The
vehicle passes through many place and many people happen to see it.
 Painted display:
 It is an artist‘s work. This display is large in size. It is visible from a
distance. It finds place at crossings, compound walls or erected structures
built of poles or pillars.
Travelling Display:
 These are the advertisements as posters, small in size, written beautifully and
placed inside trains, buses, tramcars, vans etc. The traveling people, in these
vehicles, repeatedly notice it and keep it in their memory.
Electric Display:
 Electric display is more attractive. It is popular now-a-days. The beauty and
attractiveness depend upon the skill of electrical engineers. Another method
is that of running bulbs strap and it looks like moving. Such arrangements
are common in big cities. During night time or in dark background, it is
more bright and alluring. It is costly.

Sky Advertising:
 Sky advertising and sky writing have become popular. Big balloons with
message written on them or attached to them are allowed to float in the air.
Big kites containing advertisement may be floated in the open air. Sky
writing is a kind of advertising played by the pilot, through aero plane, either
by forming smoke or by illumination. Karnataka State Lottery Agencies
have adopted big balloons for the sake of publicity. The inscription or
writing on the balloon will speak about the products. Almost all the circus
 companies use the high powered revolving search lights to attract the
attention of the public. All these types of advertisements can be seen from a
long distance.

Sandwich-men:
 Sandwich-men are hired by the advertisers. They move or walk down
through busy roads and streets. They dress in a peculiar way with fancy
clothes. They carry posters of the product of the advertisers. They utter
slogans. They create certain type of musical sounds. This sort of
advertisement has short life, but is effective. Cinema theatres usually adopt
this method of publicity.
Handbills (Leaflets):
 Handbills are common and too cheap. Handbills, which are in the form of
leaflets, are distributed among the people through hired men. Sometimes,
music bands are also played along with distribution of leaflets. Only
interested persons may go through the handbills. The handbill distributor
distributes copies of the handbill to all, who pass nearby.
 An uninterested person receives it by one hand and throws it away by the
other hand. This type of advertising is suitable for small business people. Let
us discuss the merits and demerits of this advertising.
Merits
 This is the best for local advertising; it has the widest appeal.
 It speaks to everyone.
 It engages few seconds of people‘s time and need no effort.
 It always attracts the viewers, because of its style and colourful appearance.
 Its effect is permanent.
 It indirectly beautifies the place. With outdoor advertising, crowded places
like Bombay, Calcutta, Delhi, Madras etc., appear beautiful to look on, and
at the same time the unpleasant sights are covered up.
 It is flexible.
 It is a low cost medium.
Demerits
 It has less advantage, compared to other media.
 It reduces its value because of brevity.
 The effect of prospects cannot be measured.
 It can be used only as a supplementary type of advertising.

Direct Advertising
 The object of direct advertising is to create a direct contact with the
customers. The advertiser can keep a close touch with the customers or the
public, who are supposed to have interest in his product. He contacts them
and keeps a close touch with through mail advertising. It is a common
method. It is also known as direct mail advertising.
Characteristics of Direct Advertising
 Through direct advertising, more or less a personal contact can be
maintained.
 There is a written form of communication i.e., letter.
 Contacts are through post.
Merits
 A personal relationship with the customers can be maintained.
 Detailed information can be conveyed.
 Effectiveness of this system can be measured.
 This system is elastic; addition or deletion is possible.
 Privacy can be maintained.
 It is highly selective; i.e., sending the letters to those, whom the advertiser
selects.
 It is cheaper.
Demerits
 In drafting mail, specialized skill is needed.
 It is difficult to maintain an up-to-date mailing list.
 The success depends upon the reaching of the recipient.
 In many cases, it fetches no attention of the receiver.
Sales Letters:
 Sales letters are persuasive in nature. Many firms think every letter that goes
out from the firm is a sales letter, because every business letter aims at an
opportunity to sell the firm‘s product or earn goodwill for the firm. To a
 certain extent, the salesman is substituted by the sales letters because the
purpose of salesman and sales letters is the same, i.e., push up the sales.
Drafting a sales letter is in the form of advertising, to create an interest in the
mind of the reader. Sales letters are cheaper and convenient.

a. Purpose of Sales Letter

To confer faith in the product.
To get an enquiry letter from the reader.
To create an interest in the recipient‘s mind.
To create sales and goodwill.
Circulars:
 It carries communication to a number of addresses. The circular letter
contains information about the products. It is generally cyclostyled or is in
the printed form. It carries less attention than the sales letter. The merits and
demerits are similar to sales letters.
Booklets and Catalogues:
 These contain more particulars of the product and the firm. Booklets are in
the form of a small book. Catalogue contains more information than a
booklet. Fundamentally both are similar. Catalogue will be more attractive
and it contains illustration of products with details and price lists.
Folders:
 These are letters or cards containing details of the products. They contain
illustration. Folders can be sent without envelop. The folders can be folded
conveniently, as they are made of thick paper. These are generally adopted
by publishers, medical firms, industrialists etc. The folders must be
attractive.
Package Inserts:
 This is a system through which leaflets about the products are inserted in the
packets of products. The package insert may contain details of the same
product or other products of the same firm. Thus, it is an advertisement.
Store Publication:
 This is also known as ‗house organs‘. Certain firms may publish periodicals
or magazines which contain information about the development of the firm.
 These will be distributed to wholesalers, retailers etc., free of cost. This will
also explain the product in detail.

Promotional Advertising
 The object of promotional advertising is to increase the sales. These are also
known as‗display advertising‘. By this, we mean that the products are
systematically kept in a place so as to attract the attention and notice of the
lookers. It demonstrates the products. The following are the important types.
Window Display (outside display):
 Window display is the medium used to attract the public by creating an
interest in
 them. The products dealt in by the firm are placed at the front of the firm,
trying to create an arousing interest in the minds of them. A good arranged
system of window display naturally increases the sales. It gives a
memorizing attitude to the public, even if one is not entering the shop at the
sight of the display.
 How should a window display be?
 It must be in a suitable position.
 The window should not be crowded with items.
 Good light and pleasing colours are essential.
 Articles in display must be changed often.
 It must create attention, attraction, interest, desire and action.
 The price tag should be attached to products.
 It must always be kept clean and neat.
Merits
 It has ―at the point of purchase‖ effect.
 It attracts the onlookers.
 It is used as an indicator of status to the firm.
Interior Display:
 In large-scale organizations, they use this type of display.
  Glass-door cupboards, sunglass show-cases are used for internal display.
Window display is arranged outside, but interior display is inside the shop.
The related articles are displayed within easy reach. It is easy for the buyers
to get the products needed by them.

Merits
 Purchasing is made easier.
 It facilitates to sell allied products.
 The whole shop becomes attractive.
 It is flexible.
Show-room:
 Consumers always insist on prior inspection of the products, which they aim
to purchase. Therefore sellers must provide facility for their inspection.
Buyers are not satisfied with mere publicity. They want to have a close look
at the product. In a show-room, not only the needed products are kept, but
different products also. And this creates an inward interest on other products,
when one makes a purchase of the needed item. In the show-room, salesmen
are there to explain about the prospects. It must be highly decorated and
must have good lighting arrangement with good atmosphere. For instance,
textile mills, and firms producing furniture, refrigerators, television sets,
radio sets and other luxurious items must have generally show-rooms.
Merits
 The show-room appears as a sales centre.
 Consumers can study the product and its proper functions as well as
precautions.
Exhibition:
 It is known to everyone. This is also known as trade shows. The idea behind
the exhibition is to promote sales of the goods exhibited. All big or small,
manufacturers reserve stalls in the exhibition area to exhibit their products.
Exhibitions are popular and it is the place where competitors meet. They are
held on local, national or international level
Merits
  Variety of products display can be witnessed.
 It is always interesting to the public.
 It is a ready-made market.
 When selecting a medium for advertising, the following should be
considered.

Objective of advertising.
 The financial ability of the producer.
 The nature and extent of competition.
 The prospective buyers.
 The class of buyers (caste, age, sex, etc.)
 Whereabouts of his customers.
 Nature of message.
 Medium to be adopted.
 The cost of medium.
 Circulation of the medium.
ADVANTAGES OF ADVERTISING
 Advertising is considered multi-dimensional. It helps in a number of
marketing activities. It is a technique of sales promotion. Sales volume is
increased by advertising. It helps and supports the salesman in selling the
products. Consumer‘s knowledge about the product is increased by
advertising. Advertising helps the consumer to save their time in purchasing.
It also helps the manufacturers to sell their products. Hence quick selling is
possible which leads to more production at less cost. The relation between
wholesalers and retailers is improved through advertising. Advertising
introduces new products, stimulates markets regarding the existing product
and repeated sales. Thus advertising is advantageous to the following groups
of people.
Advantages to Manufacturers

 It Increases the Sales Volume: Advertising increases the sales volume of

the product. Hence mass production is possible. This leads to reduction in
the cost of production.
 It Increases the Net Profit: It increases the net profit by a higher turnover
of sales. It leads to higher volume of production. Hence average cost of
production is less, and the profit will increase.
 It Stabilizes the Sales Volume: Stabilization of sales volume is possible
through advertising by the process of repetition. Regular and frequent
advertising leads to regular flow of sales. It gives the name, location,
products and services of the selling houses to the public often. During slump
period, advertising tends to ensure a permanent class of customers to buy the
product.
 It Controls Product Price: Control of wholesale and retail price is possible
by means of advertisement. The needy retailers are overcharged by some
greedy wholesalers. The retailers charge higher prices for the products.
Hence the consumers do not want to buy such products. This will lead to
reduction in sales. Hence manufacturers print on the cover or announce the
retail price of the product.
 It Helps in Opening New Market: Advertising is helpful in opening or
creating new markets. It helps to get leadership in the market It helps the
manufacturers to take decision whether to expand the market share or not. It
also helps them to sell new products or improved variety of products.
 It Maintains the Existing Market: Maintenance of existing market is
essential for the success of a concern. Hence manufacturers, who look
ahead, always have an eye on the future business. As such, by advertising he
is very tactful to hold up the present market and to expand the market.
 It Creates Reputation: Advertising increases the reputation of the
manufacturers in the public. It builds the image of the product and goodwill
of the manufacturers. It protects the manufacturers from aggressive selling
method adopted by his competitors. It creates an image in the minds of the
customer about his brand.
  It Secures More Dealers: Advertising secures more dealers to buy the
products. Due to the goodwill earned from the public, dealers are interested
in buying such a product.
 It Is Less Expensive: Advertising is considered to be less expensive. With a
smaller amount of money, advertising reaches many people, and more
people will buy the product.
 Wide Information: Wider information of product is possible through
advertisement. Any change in quality or price can be made known by the
manufacturers to the customers as and when it is necessary in a quick
manner.
 Manufacturers can change the habits and prejudices of customers by tactful

 advertising Thus; it helps in establishing and controlling the buyer habits of

the customers.

Advantages to Salesman
 Creates a Background: Salesmen‘s mastery and skill satisfy the customers.
A well trained, active tactful salesman‘s job makes easy distribution work.
The advertisement, which is the background, will help the salesmen very
much. Customers know about the product through advertisement. When
salesman contacts them with the product, customers buy the product without
any hesitation.
 Curtails the Burden of the Salesman’s Job: If the advertising is done by
the manufacturer, the work of salesman is reduced. Otherwise he has to
advertise about the product and then try to sell the product. Salesman‘s
function is supported and supplemented by advertisement. Selling and
advertising are ‗cup and saucer‘ or ‗key and lock‘ words. Salesmen‘s work
is made easier and more encouraging by advertisement.
 Least Effort: Advertised product can be sold very easily. Salesman‘s time is
saved and he can contact more customers in a shorter period. He can meet
many customers with the least effort.
 Consumer’s Needs Can Be Studied: A salesman‘s confidence is increased
through advertising by educating and stimulating the consumers. Customer‘s
demand and needs are studied by him correctly. The manufacturers are
 informed of this. They will supply the products according to the demand of
the customers and thus equalize the demand and supply of their products.
 Creates Enthusiasm: Advertising reduces salesman‘s job. He can do his job
in a better way to sell the products, crossing the fixed quota. Hence it creates
enthusiasm and confidence in him.

Advantages to Wholesalers and Retailers

 Creates Easy Sales: Advertisement informs consumers about the quality of
the product. Hence they know about the product. Sale of that product is easy
for the wholesalers and retailers.
 Increases the Turnover: Advertising helps quick sale of the product which in
turn increases the rate of turnover of the product. Thus, there is no question
of old stocks. It reduces the expenses on overhead charges.
 Attracts More Customers: Advertising gives detailed information about
the product and the availability of the product in a particular shop. As such,
it attracts more customers in that particular shop.
 Increases the Prestige of the Store: Customers know about the store
through advertising. The goodwill or reputation earned by the manufacturer
is also shared by the selling shops. Thus the prestige of the firm increases.
 Publicity: In advertisement, product publicity and wholesale or retail shop
publicity are done simultaneously. Thus, the retailers are also known to the
public and thereby increase their sales too.
 Economic Selling: Advertising ensures more economic selling.

Advantages to the Customers.

 Easy Purchasing: advertising helps customers in easy purchasing of the
products. Advertisement gives useful information about the reasonableness
of the price and the quality of product. There are many tables for headache,
like Anacin, aspro, coldarine etc. A good advertising can help in buying the
best one.
 Connecting Link: Advertising is the connecting link between the
manufacturer and the customers. It eliminates the middlemen. There is no
profit for the middlemen. Hence the price is low.
 Fair: It helps the customers to get product at fair price.
  Saves time: It helps customers by giving information about the availability
of the product, i.e., where and when. The customers can select the best
product in a particular shop. Thus it reduces their shopping time.
 Best Quality Product: Advertisement generally stands for a quality product.
Manufacturers advertise their product only for selling. If the product is not
good, customers will switch on to other products (brand). Manufacturers
maintain their quality to retain the market. As such, it is advantageous to
customers. Benefits of standardization are assured to the customers by
advertising.
 Educates the Customer: The aim of the advertising is to educate the
customers about the introduction of a new product mentioning its different
uses. It gives information to the customers about the availability of goods
and services in the market. The customers come to know about these things
and purchase the products according to their standard. Thus the standard of
living of the customers increases. The comparative type of advertisement of
different products and substitutes will enable the public to understand more
about a product or services.
 Mail Order Business: Advertising helps the people to get the products
directly from the producers through mail order business. There are places,
where the products are unavailable- villages, rural areas. Advertising helps
them to get the products through post. Thus it improves the social welfare.

Advantages to Community
 Increases Employment Opportunities: Advertising generates employment
opportunities directly and indirectly. Direct employment opportunities in
advertising are artists, painters, singers, musicians, writers, photographers,
pressmen, managing agencies etc. it creates mass sales, followed by mass
production which in turn opens the door for more employment indirectly.
 Uplifts the Standard of Living: Advertising is an effective tool which
raises the standard of living of the people of advanced countries. The
standard of living is measured by the amount of national income and its
distribution and the consumption pattern.
 Advertising gives stimulus to the consumers to buy new variety of products.
It leads to large-scale production of more varieties of products followed by
 mass consumption. Thus advertising creates demand for standardized
products.
 Educative Value: Advertising educates the members of the community in
the various uses of products. As such, people know the varieties of products
and their availability in the market and uses and benefits. Thus it educates
the people. People become intelligent buyers. They become economic
buyers. They understand the merits and demerits of products they come
across.
 Helps Press: Advertising gives more income to the press. We cannot buy
newspapers at a cheaper rate without advertisement. Commercial
advertisement and broadcasting are undertaken by radios television,
newspapers etc. These lead to the cheaper availability of newspapers.
 We can say that advertising is a boon to the producer and consumer. It is
very important for modern trade and commerce. It stabilizes the sales
volume and also the national income. It encourages large-scale production
and increasing the profit. It reduces unemployment.
LIMITATIONS OF ADVERTISING
 There are a number of advantages of advertising; yet there are some
drawbacks too. Several criticisms and objections are put forth against
advertising. Kenneth A. Longman, in his book ‗Advertising‘ has mentioned
the following charges against advertising:
 Advertising sells people things they neither need nor want.
 People are not really influenced by advertising.
 Advertising generates senseless proliferation of variety in goods and
services.
 Advertising results in higher prices.
 Advertising is false and misleading.
 Most advertising is irrelevant.
 Most advertising exhibits bad taste or sponsors it.
 Advertising is too intrusive.
 Advertising regulates discussions of public issues through its control of the
news media.
 Its life is short.
 It tends to create monopoly.
 In many cases, the public are cheated.
  Apart from those mentioned above, economic, social and ethical
objections are leveled against advertising. They are.

A. Economic Objection
 Leads to Higher Price: Large-scale production is possible taking into
account advertising, and the price will be very low. If advertising fails to sell
the product, then the price will be increased. Experience shows that
advertising increases the price since manufacturers spend a lot of money on
advertising, which increases the cost of production. But generally
advertising increases sales and mass production resulting in less cost of
production and reduction of unit cost.
 It Forces People to Buy Things: People are forced to buy things by the
attraction of the advertisement. People do not need things like cars,
refrigerators etc. but advertising forces them to buy this product. Thus it
stimulates people to go in for things which they cannot afford. But it
multiplies the needs.
 People Are Not Influenced By Advertising: Some criticize that people are
not influenced by advertising.
 Creates Waste: Advertising is regarded as waste. When there is a change in
style or fashion, old things or half-used articles are not used any further.
New products are purchased. The manufacturer must be very careful about
this change. When there is a change in price, model, quality etc. it will incur
another big amount for the advertisements. It is responsible for quick and
premature changes in fashion and style. For instance, a particular product
can easily be used for a year. But advertising shortens the life of the product
through the publicity of the latest arrivals. Thus creeps in immaturity of the
product growth. This is what happens in advanced resources multiplies.
 It Exaggerates the Facts: Advertising exaggerates the real fact to the
consumers e.g.,
 ―the best medicine for headache,‖ ―the finest pain reliever‖ etc. These lead
the consumer to buy that product even though it is of low quality or may be
 ineffective. Use of superlative degree in product description is also viewed
by the readers in a negative way.

 It is Fraud and Misleading: Advertising is an instrument of cheating in

many situations. A good advertiser can sell anything. Producers advertise
their products not with a view to serve the public, but with a view to dispose
of their products, which are really not needed to the customers. They aim at
earning profits by pushing out the dead stocks. For this, by concealing the
actual facts, the advertiser makes publicity with ―make to believe‖
statements by using false statistics, tempered statements, false claims,
exaggerated ideas, false comparison, misrepresented opinions of great
people, false supported reports etc., without a base.
 For instance, film stars‘ opinions with photos and signature generally appear
in many newspapers. Big political leaders‘ statements, with signatures are
ample now-a-days. Generally we may come across statements like the
following. A film star says, ―My secret in beauty lies in X brand soap‖
Some big star says, ―I am dying for X brand cigarettes.‖ ―Do you know
how we can enjoy and relax with the X brand drinks?‖ ―Our products are
wonders of the world‖ etc. All these statements have no background but the
public are cheated and this boosts the sale of dead and ineffective products.
 Leads to Monopoly: Advertising is done by large firms. It prevents the
entry of small firms and new firms in the market. People buy a particular
brand. By taking advantages of this producers raise the price. By using the
advertising knife, they cut the necks of small or new firms. These lead to
monopoly.
Social Objection
 The Press:The major income for the press comes from advertisement. It is
true that the cost of the newspapers is reduced. The advertising matters are
presented in such a way that advertisers are favoured, but the public are not,
so sometimes the public are affected adversely.
Ethical Objection
 Cigarettes, brandy etc., are harmful to health. Advertising makes people to
buy these. It affects their health. The way in which they are advertised is
bad. The statements, poses of pictures etc., in many cases are offensive; they
are vulgar and immoral. In many cases, advertising which excites emotions,
nude poses of sex, vulgar statement etc., affect the morale of the younger
generation and damage the ethical aims of a society.

ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT.
 Every good company even if it utilizes the services of an advertising agency
has its own advertising department which do independent advertising
activities quite successfully.
 The internal organization may adopt any of these patterns
 It can be set up along advertising sub functions copy media, etc.
 Individuals can be assigned to one of the product lines – appliances
automobiles, furniture garments, etc.
 It can be by type of buyer or ensures – consumers, purchasing agents or
industrial user etc.
 It can be geographic – foreign domestic etc.
1. Structure and Functions of advertising department
 Determining the allocation of funds to be spent on advertising and sales
promotion programmer.
 Budgetary control to control the procedures of spending the sum budgeted
and to adhere to the purposes and the limitations of budget
 Co-ordination with the sales department as both is complimentary to each
other
 Keeping in touch with the representatives of important media – companies
middleman consumer and commercial firm
 Distribution of advertising materials among the customers.
 Promotion and supervision of the sales promotional material
 Merchandising advertising to fulfill consumer wants
 Record keeping and supervising the accounting done for advertising
 Check the advertising ordered by and for the company and approves
payment for it. The advertising manager is the key executive in this
department
ADVERTISING FUNCTION
Advertising function:
 His responsibility is to determine advertising policy
 To outline company‘s advertising strategy
 To design Company advertising effort
 He must indulge in creative
 Managerial function
 Administering the advertising department
Setting advertising goals.
 Drafting advertising plans and making advertising budgets
 Seeing that the company‘s top management has a correct and complete
understanding of advertising
 Taking part in company management
 General set-up of advertising department
 Board of directors
 General Manager (or) Managing Director
 Clerical staff Record Sales promotion Display demo‘s Miscellaneous
packing dept publicity dept
 Filling Statistics
 Voucher Gift Scheme Sales literature estimates schedules
ADVERTISING AGENCY
 Almost all good organizations have a separate department for advertising
activities and are known as advertising department. It is headed by an
advertising manager. It is not possible for all the organizations to maintain a
separate department. Moreover, the present era is a stage of stiff competition
in the field of marketing. And this invites specialized hands to deal with the
advertising campaign, which is becoming more complex. Thus the
advertising agency has come up. The advertising agency is a service
organization. It is a specialized unit in the field of advertising. An
advertising agency is a group of persons, who are experts on various phases
of advertising and related marketing areas. Such agencies are slowly
progressing in India, where as such agencies in advertising are well-
developed in the U.S.A.
 The function of advertising agency is to sell goods and services to their
clients, who have messages to be conveyed to the public. They are
 specialists who give expert assistance to their clients. An advertising agency
is an independent concern. It acts as an agent or consultant for the advertiser.
In early periods, they sold spaces to an advertiser and arranged for the
publication in the newspaper on behalf of the advertiser. Now there are
various existing and new style of advertising has come up. The role of
advertising agency has been upgraded. Thus, the advertising agency
performs the following useful services.
 They develop attractive and cheaper ideas for advertising.
 The specialized agency, which has all facilities, such as artists, painters,
photographers, expert personnel etc., can offer the best advantageous
services to the advertisers.
 They possess a closer relation with media owners and this facilitates in
obtaining space and timely presentation at a competitive rate.
 The burden of advertiser is undertaken by them, so that they are freed and
can attend to other jobs.
 The expenditure met by the advertiser for advertising can be turned into
productive expenditure with the help of agencies.
 Generally advertiser fined difficulty in the preparation of advertisement
copy. Often they make wrong copy. But the agency prepares the copy
quickly and correctly. This relieves the burden of advertiser.
 The agency also does the work of special packing, designing, sales training,
research, and test marketing etc., for their clients.
 Thus Advertising Agency:
 It‘s a business organization established to render advertising services to its
clients and customers.
 It has been defined as ―A group of advertising specialist plus marketing,
merchandising, communication and allied personal‖
 It‘s a creative business [(i.e.) To prepare advertisements
 A service business.
 A profitable business.

SELECTION OF AN ADVERTISING AGENCY

 The advertiser has to consider certain factors while selecting an advertising
agency.
They are:
  The agency to be selected should have experience and must be peculiar to
the business of the advertiser.
 The line of products usually accepted by the agency is to be considered.
 The available facilities and equipments with them are to be ascertained.
 The financial soundness of the agency is to be checked.
 Goodwill and market reputation are earned through advertising.
 ―Time is money,‖ especially to business people. Bringing the advertisement
in time is an important factor.
 Basis of remuneration for the work is to be considered. Advantages of
services of advertising agency, in brief are:
 Advertiser is freed.
 Benefit of economy goes to the advertiser.
 The work is quick and satisfactory.
 Advertising looks more attractive.
 Market research is available at cheap rate.
 It promotes sales.
 Advantageous utilization of fund is possible.
STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS OF ADVERTISING AGENCY:
 It develops new business by defining or describing the type of client the
agency wants.
 It reduces the hazards of advertising.
 It advocates the idea of advertising.
 It creator the advertising manager which are in essential element which
media with to sell.
 It simplifies the mediums credit operations and reduces the cost of their
operations.
 It carries the cost of credit losses.
 It simplifies the mechanical preparation of advertising and reducer the
medium cost.
 The main work of agency is to create, prepare and place advertising for the
promotional objectives.
INTEREST OF ADVERTISING AGENCY
Consumer matters - Premium
 Contest premiums, sampling demonstrations, coupons, consumer education,
consumer services.
Marketing matters
 Product and package development, product identification, labels, pricing,
channels, competitors, activities, marketing trends.
Dealers Matters
 Direct mail to middlemen point of purchase advertising retail promotions,
advertising port folio for retailers, catalogues, merchandising clients,
advertising to dealers.

Personal selling matters

 Trade shows, displays, exhibition salesmen port folios, sales training,
stimulation sales, meetings, sales literature, merchandising client, and to
clients salesmen.
Trade Shows
 Definition:An exhibition for companies in a specific industry to showcase
and demonstrate their new products and services. Generally trade shows are
not open to the public and can only be attended by company representatives
and members of the press. Also, an exhibition of businesses offering
franchises and/or business opportunity packages for sale.
 Trade shows are sponsored by trade associations for specific industries, and
there are thousands of associations running shows every year. Generally
trade shows aren't open to the public and can only be attended by company
representatives and members of the press. To find an appropriate association
for the industry you're interested in, look through the Encyclopedia of
Associations published by Gale Research. You may also want to check
magazines and newsletters such as Tradeshow Week or go through the
Tradeshow Week Data Book. These publications should be available at your
local library.
ADVERTISING BUDGET
 Having determined the advertising objectives, the next important managerial
task is to determine the advertisement budget. The amount set aside
exclusively for advertising is known as advertising budget or appropriation.
The firm may be spending the amount in order to achieve the sales goals.
The question raised in this respect is now much amount cans a producer or
manufacturer spends on advertising? The financial manager has to tackle
this problem. But it is a difficult task to be solved. Generally every year, an
 estimate will be made to calculate the amount for advertisement. There are
different factors to be considered before making out a budget for advertising.
Mainly PLC stages have to be looked upon. Here the emphasis is given to
the basis or methods available for determining the advertising budget or
appropriation. They are briefly discussed below:

Affordable Method:
 Under this approach, a company, to determine the advertising appropriation,
is to find out what the company can afford. It can spend for advertising as
much as the funds permit. From the name itself it is clear that the affordable
amount set apart for advertising, is known as affordable method. It means
that the advertising expenses may vary from year to year.
 Under this method the weakness may be
(1) The opportunities of advertising are overlooked
(2) It is difficult to plan long-term marketing development.
Percentage of Sales methods:
 Here the budget amount is decided for advertising as a percentage of sales,
i.e., relationship between advertising expenses and sales revenue. For
instance, a company may allot Rs. 5,000 in which is 2% of the preceding
year‘s past or forecast or anticipated sales i.e., Rs. 2, 50,000.

Merits
 The method is simple in calculation.
 A clear relationship exists between sales and advertising expenses.
 Advertisement wars can be avoided.

Demerits
 Past figures may be incorrect for the future.
 Declining sales reduce the advertising expenses and is not a dynamic
method. But, when sales decrease, advertising must be increased.
 This system takes advertising as the result of sales. But it should be the
cause of sales.
Competitive Comparison Method:
 A company sets its budget solely depending upon the basis of competitor‘s
expenditure. That is under this method, the advertising appropriation is
decided on the basis of spending for advertising by the competitors. For this
a company has to collect relevant data about competitors. They will do
simply what others have done.

Objective and Task Method:

 This is also known as research-objective method. The amount is set aside on
the basis of objectives to be achieved and tasks to be involved. Under this
method, three questions are involved: (1) what does the company wants to
accomplish? (2) What is necessary in order to accomplish this? (3) What
will it cost do this?
Merits
 Advertising objectives are achieved.
 It is flexible
 A clear advertisement programme can be drawn.
Demerits
 The cost of objectives may not be estimated exactly.
 It is more rational.
Return on Investment Method:
 Here the advertising budget is considered as an investment, thereby
expecting a certain return in terms of profit. A clear study is made by
emphasizing the relation between advertisement and sales. Sales are
measured with advertising and without advertising. That is, the profit
obtained by advertising is compared with the cost of advertising
POINTS TO BE RMEMBER:
 This tendency is a struggle for the producers for their survival in the modern
business
 world. In the present business world, suitable publicity is done through
advertising, which is adopted by commercial and industrial undertakings and
almost all types of concerns.
  Therefore advertisement is a method of publicity. Advertisement has the
prominent
 place among the techniques of mass education and persuasion on the public.
 Advertising helps the consumer to save their time in purchasing. It also
helps the manufacturers to sell their products. Hence quick selling is
possible which leads to more production at less cost.
 The relation between wholesalers and retailers is improved through
advertising. Advertising introduces new products, stimulates markets
regarding the existing product and repeated sales.
 Indoor advertising includes press media, radio, television, film. Outdoor
advertising includes mural (posters), advertising board, vehicular, painted
display, traveling display, electric display, sky advertising, sandwich-man,
and handbills (leaflets).
 Direct advertising includes sales letters, circular letters, booklets and
catalogues, folders, package inserts & store publications. Promotional
advertising includes window display, interior display, show-rooms and
exhibitions.
 Advertising agency is a marketing agency that helps to promote customers
needs through advertising.
 Thus advertising agency is a business organization established to render
advertising services to its clients and customers. It has been defined as ―A
group of advertising specialist plus marketing, merchandising,
communication and alliedpersonal‖.
 After the advertising objectives, the next important managerial task is to
determine the advertisement budget with the effect of affordable method,
percentage of sales
 methods, competitive comparison method, objective and task method and
return on investment method.

Unit:4
Fashion Retailing
 Fashion Retailing - Scope and functions, Types of Stores, Challenges for
fashion retail in India, E- retailing – growth and development, Major players
of fashion goods online. Pricing policies and strategies for apparel products,
 Functions and factors Influencing pricing, pricing strategies for new
products, methods of setting prices

Fashion Retailing
 Fashion Retailing is the link or a bridge between the fashionable product
manufacturer and the consumer. Fashion Retailers may buy fashion
merchandise from various manufactures (Vendors) directly import
merchandises from all over the country their own brands. Fashion retailers
must constantly be aware of customer’s desires. They must notice changes in
people’s living patterns and tastes. Retailers must show to put together and
accessories an outfit. Students are studying UG/PG level in fashion design,
apparel tech or garment manufacturing, fashion merchandising have enough
chance to choose the fashion retailing as their career options to become the
stores merchandisers, store in-charge, and store manager with expected
emoluments/salary, by gaining wide knowledge and experience to become
the successful entrepreneur.

Functions of a Retailer

 Retailer provides the goods that customer needs, in a desired form, at a

required time and place.

 A retailer does not sell raw material. He sells finished goods or services in
the formthat customer wants.

 A retailer buys a wide range of products from different wholesalers and offers the best
products under one roof. Thus, the retailer performs the function of both buyingand
selling.

 A retailer keeps the products or services within easy reach of the customer by making
them available appropriate location. at

Scope:
1. Store Management.
2. Category management.
3. Customer Relationship Management.
4. Vendor Management.
5. Inventory Management. 6. Supply Chain Management.

Importance:
1. Helps in economic growth.
2. Provides various opportunities.
3. Provides employment opportunities.
4. Formation of FDI.
5. Improvement of Infrastructure and enhances the availability of
retail space.
6. Transformation of the retail sector in India.
7. Improvement in standard of living.

Different Types of Retail Stores:

 The type of retail store plays a very important role, as it influences from
store layout to the type of customer you attract. Let’s look at the different
retail categories in more detail.

1. Department Store:
 They are often seen in malls, a department store is a retailer offering a huge
variety of consumer goods in different areas (or departments) of a store.
Department stores have a reputation as being a little pricier than big box
stores and selling higher-end brands. Examples of department stores are,
Macy’s, Kohl’s, and Neiman Marcus. The average size of department store
is around 250,000 square feet and often uses the loop layout to connect
customers to every department.

2. Off-Price Retailer:
 The off-price retail model is a replica of the discount retail model. Here,
mainly retailers typically highlight the “normal” retail price alongside their
lower price so customers can see what kind of deal they’re getting.
 Basically, off-price retailers are independent of manufacturers and buy large
volumes of branded goods to sell at a reduced cost. Examples include TJ
Maxx, Burlington Coat Factory, and Nordstrom Rack.

3. Discount Store:
 They are famous for having lower-than-average prices; a discount store’s
secrete lies in merchandising. Retailer’s objective is to give the feel of
offering all their products for less than the average retail price. Think Dollar
Tree, Big Lots, or Five Below as examples of discount stores. These stores
average size is 10,000 square feet and leverage the loop layout to encourage
customers to explore the whole store. Smaller format stores like TJ Maxx are
approximately 30,000 square feet, while stores like Nordstrom Rack can be
upwards of 120,000 square feet.

4. Warehouse:
 Costco or Sam’s Club, are warehouse retailers of food and product that offer
large quantities of items at attractive discounts. These stores create a simple
experience and instead focus on moving products in higher volumes. The
average warehouse ranges from 84,000 to 146,000 square feet and generally
follows a loop layout.

5. Convenience Store:
 They are small in size and offers “quick trip” experiences, convenience
stores are hallmarked with longer open hours and convenient locations. They
typically provide a basic foods and drinks, alcohol, and everyday essentials.
Many also have a fuel station as part of their operations.

6. Big Box/Superstore:
 Walmart, Target, Lowe’s, and Home Depot are dominating the big box retail
scene. These retailers (and others in this category) occupy a great amount of
physical space and supply a variety of goods in multiple product categories.
For instance, you can pick up plants, hand soap, mailing supplies, and a new
drill all in the same store. Big box stores typically occupy more than 50,000
 square feet, with typical ranges between 90,000-200,000 square feet. They
often have their own parking facilities.

7. Specialty Store:
 As the name suggests that, specialty stores are deep assortment of brands,
styles, or models within a relatively narrow category. Examples include craft
stores, furniture stores, garden centers, sporting goods stores, and
bookstores. The average size of a specialty store ranges depending on the
type of store it is. Specialty stores can use a different types of layout based
on the scale of their operations. For smaller stores, a free flow layout
inspires curiosity, while a grid, loop, or diagonal layout is optimal for
medium and larger stores.

Challenges for fashion retail in India

 Due to the revolutionary changes in the global economy and the growing
relevance of running a business around-the-clock, the retail industry has
been going through a paradigm shift worldwide.

 India has organised retail for a little more than ten years. However, it is
mostly an urban phenomenon, and expansion is slowly occurring.

 The retail business is heavily impacted by consumerism, the modern world

has become a global village, and technological advancements have created
opportunities and challenges.

 With the advent of the internet, the retail sector has grown to benefit
economies and expand business beyond geographical boundaries at both the
B2B and B2C levels.

 Although there is a lot of room for firm growth in the Indian retail sector, it
is nevertheless susceptible to a variety of roadblocks and bottlenecks that
might slow the rate of progress.
  Many factors, such as inadequate infrastructure, strict or rigid regulations,
political uncertainty, etc., may restrict growth potential and provide several
challenges.

Retail – Issues and Challenges in the Retail Business

 These are following issues and challenges in the retail business:

a. Legal and security,

b. Ethical issues,

c. Technological and

d. Non-store retailing etc.

 As this is just beginning of retail business, more issues may arise during the
full phased operations.

a. Legal and Security Issues:

 Organised retailing has started over the past few years as an adventure in
almost all the large cities in India by the developing and growing business
organisations. The population of retail shops and stores in the unorganized
sectors as existing today is very big.

 The main areas, which may attach legal and security issues, can be
enumerated as under:

1. Land acquisition,

2. Construction of building and creating other facilities, requiring statutory

permission and clearances,
3. Elimination of middlemen and agents working in the retail business since
inception will create threats for their existence including loss of earnings for their
livelihood,

4. Employment of members of families of whose land acquisition is involved,

5. Payment of compensations for the land acquired from the landowners.

Of these, acquisition of land is a big issue affecting the legal as well as political
environments at the national level.

b. Ethical Issues:

 The coming up of retail business in a big way is likely to create difficulties

and losses to a large population of the society engaged in the retail business
since time immemorial to earn their livelihood.

 A few of the likely issues may be indicated as under:

1. Closure of old stores and shops and making them poor within no time,

2. Snatching the jobs of lakhs of people engaged in these old shops and stores,

3. Elimination of middlemen will also be unethical, if the men and women

employed by them are not suitably re-employed in the new retail company,

4. Land acquisition is always complained of inadequate compensations to the

landowners.

 Therefore, these issues have to be well taken by the organisations and

persons concerned so as to avoid any adverse situation in the retail
management process.

c. Technological Issues:
  Retail management is a new venture in the supply distribution chain from
original supplier to the consumers. There are many agencies and channels
associated in the total system. This is a new venture, hence lacks in the latest
facilities demanded by the consumers. There will be difficulties at all the
centers in the operations of retail business. Hence, this will require a massive
drive for the technological developments in all the service centers from
original suppliers/farmers, retail shops staff and executives to the end
consumers.

d. Non-Store Retailing:

 The newly formed retail management companies like, Reliance, Guardian

Lifecare Private Limited etc. have started bringing the goods straight from
the manufacturers or farmers to the retail centers, from where the same are
supplied to the consumers directly, instead of keeping the same in an interim
store room for further work of cleaning, washing and packing etc.

 Thus, these are the various jobs to be done at the retail centers subsequent to
the bringing of the goods from the original suppliers. This will increase the
workload and may create a mess in the supply distribution chain.

E- retailing
 E-retail or online retail is defined retailing activities done through internet.
We have many online or e-retailers in India who provide a variety of
merchandise to customers. In general retail business is referred as Business
to Consumer (B2C). Online retail players are classified into two types
category focused players and multi category focused. Category focused
players provide particular merchandise with deep assortment.
 Ex: - Myntra, Jabbong (Apparels and Lifestyle products), Bigbasket,
Local banya (Grocery segment) and Fabfurnish, Pepper fry (Furniture),
Carat lane,Juvalia and you (jewellery), First cry, my baby cart (baby
products). Multi category players provide variety of merchandise with
limited assortment. Ex: - Flipkart, Amazon, Future bazar and Snapdeal
etc..
Pricing Strategies
 Retailers generally employ two pricing strategies: (1) everyday low pricing
and (2) high/low pricing. The benefits and drawbacks of each of these tactics
are described in this article.

High/Low Pricing
 Through sales campaigns, retailers who use a high/low pricing strategy
frequently—often weekly—discount the initial prices of goods. Some
shoppers, on the other hand, get used to regular reductions and just wait for
the items they want to go on sale before stocking up at the reduced costs.
This type of pricing strategy is utilised by numerous large businesses
(including, in North America, Reebok, Nike, and Target). The fashion and
shoe industries compete in part through high-low pricing (Macy's,
Nordstrom, etc.).

Everyday Low Pricing

 Many retailers have embraced an everyday low-pricing (EDLP) strategy,
including supermarkets, home improvement stores, and discount stores.
With this tactic, the emphasis is placed on the consistency of retail pricing at
a level midway between the usual, non-sale price and the deep-discount sale
price of high/low retailers. Even while EDLP merchants support their policy
of constant pricing, they don't experience sales as regularly as their high/low
rivals.

 Everyday low pricing is a little deceptive because low doesn't necessarily

mean "lowest." Although EDLP-using shops aim for low pricing, they aren't
always the best deals available. A sale price at a high/low store could be the
lowest price offered in a market at any particular time.
 True EDLP retailers, such as Walmart, Costco, or Target, almost never offer
discounts because they have already beaten the industry prices.

Advantages of pricing strategies

1. Increases revenue:
  Retailers can charge higher prices to non-price-sensitive customers who will
pay the "high" price and lower prices to price-sensitive customers who will
wait for the "low" discount price by using the high/low pricing strategy.

 Stirs up excitement during a sale, there is frequently an atmosphere of "grab

them while they last." Many people are attracted by sales, and many
customers generate enthusiasm. Some shops add unique in-store events like
product demonstrations, freebies, and celebrity appearances to their low
prices and advertising.

2. Sells Slow moving merchandise:

 Sales enable retailers to get rid of inventory that isn't moving quickly by
reducing the price.

3. Ensures affordable prices for clients:

 Customers generally have doubts regarding initial retail prices. They have
developed the habit of only purchasing during sales, which is the key
element of a high/low price plan. Customers are informed by the EDLP
strategy that they can expect to pay the same low prices each time they shop
at an EDLP business. Customers do not need to read advertisements or wait
for sales to start on the things they want.

4. Lowers operating and advertising costs:

 The weekly-sale advertising utilised in the high/low strategy is less
necessary due to the consistent prices brought on by EDLP. Additionally,
EDLP sellers are exempt from paying the labour costs associated with
updating sale signs and price tags.

5. Decreases stock-outs and enhances inventory control:

 The EDLP strategy lessens the significant changes in demand brought on by
frequent sales with substantial markdowns. Retailers may more confidently
manage their stocks as a result. Fewer stock-outs translate into happier
consumers, which boosts revenue. In addition, by lowering the average
 inventory needed for special promotions and backup stock, a more
predictable customer demand pattern enables the merchant to increase
inventory turnover.

Factors for setting retail pricing

 Customer price sensitivity and cost: In general, as a product's price rises,
sales of that product decline as fewer and fewer consumers think the product
is a good value. How many units will be sold at various price points depends
on how sensitive consumers are to price changes. If target market consumers
are highly price-sensitive, price increases will have a significant negative
impact on sales. Sales won't be greatly affected by price increases if clients
aren't overly price-sensitive.

 Price Elasticity is commonly used to measure price sensitivity. This is the

ratio of the percentage change in quantity sold to the percentage change in
price.

 Competition: Customers have a wide range of options for products and

services, and they frequently look for the best deal. As a result, when setting
their own prices, retailers must take their rivals' into account.

 Retailers have the option of pricing higher, lower, or online with their rivals.
The selected Pricing policy must be in line with the overall strategy of the
retailer and its comparable market standing. Consider Walmart and Tiffany
& Co. as examples. Walmart strives to undercut its rivals' prices on the
goods it sells. Tiffany, in contrast, provides its clients with important
advantages that go beyond the products themselves. Customers are ensured
by the company's brand name and customer care that they will be happy
with the products they buy. Tiffany is able to charge more than rivals
because of the distinctiveness of its offering.

Unit:5
Sustainable Fashion
  Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance; Environmental concerns
related to fashion; Linear fashion and circular fashion; 4R’s in sustainability
– Repair, recycle, reuse and reduce. Moving towards sustainable fashion -
Eco fashion, Slow fashion; Environmental impact of fast fashion.

Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance

 Sustainable fashion (also known as eco-fashion) is a term describing
products, processes, activities, and people (policymakers, brands,
consumers) that aim to achieve a carbon-neutral fashion industry built on
equality, social justice, animal welfare, and ecological integrity. Sustainable
fashion concerns more than fashion textiles or products, rather addressing
the entire process in which clothing is produced, consumed and disposed of.
The movement looks to combat the large carbon footprint that the fast
fashion industry has created by reducing the environmental impact such as
air pollution, water pollution and climate change.
 In 2020, it was found that voluntary self-directed reform of textile
manufacturing supply chains by large companies to reduce the
environmental impact was largely unsuccessful. Measures to reform fashion
production beyond greenwashing requires policies for the creation and
enforcement of standardized certificates, along with related import controls,
subsidies, and interventions such as eco-tariffs.

Brands can break their sustainable practices down into four areas.

 Ethical Fashion: This covers production, working conditions and Fair-

Trade practices. Ethical fashion is a moralistic stance a company takes to
ensure no human beings or animals are hurt due to their manufacturing
practices.

 Circular Fashion: This is an off shoot of the circular economy, and

advocates that all materials and products in society are used and circulated
among people for as long as possible, in an environmentally safe, effective
and fair manner. This encompasses things like recycling, upcycling, and
thrifting.
  Slow Fashion: Slow fashion is the antithesis of Fast Fashion, taking a long-
term view and considering the whole product lifecycle. This includes sharing
or renting clothes as well as the quality of garments to help them last longer
and thus reduce the need to buy new ones.

 Conscious Fashion: This is more of a message to get across to consumers,

explaining and encouraging them to buy eco-friendly products and get
behind the green fashion movement

Why sustainable fashion is important?

 The fashion industry is very harmful to our planet. Second to oil, the
industry is one of the world’s largest polluters, responsible for 20% of global
industrial water pollution.

 It comes as a surprise to many that most clothes are actually made out of
plastic, creating a microplastic disaster in the making. Thousands of harmful
chemicals are used in the textile mills around the world, which are
dangerous to both the environment and the people working with them, and
the time has come for a global change in the industry. That change must
come in the form of sustainable fashion.

 We strongly believe that a greener, more environmentally friendly business

practice is not only important for the planet, but also for a business’ future
success.

 As the fashion industry moves towards sustainability, there are a lot of big
changes ahead for businesses, changes we can help with.

 A commitment to sustainability shouldn’t just be buzzwords and vague

slogans, which is why we are 100% committed to renewable, ethical, and
eco-friendly practices.
  With decades of experience in the industry, we work together with our
clients, manufacturers, and distributors to ensure a fair and sustainable
practice for everyone.

 The fashion industry has a disastrous impact on the environment. In fact, it

is the second largest polluter in the world, just after the oil industry. And, the
environmental damage is increasing as the industry grows.

A factory emitting smoke into the sky.

 The textiles and fashion industries are amongst the leading industries that
affect the environment negatively. One of the industries that greatly
jeopardize environmental sustainability is the textiles and fashion industry,
which thus also bears great responsibilities. Globalization has made it
possible to produce clothing at increasingly lower prices, prices so low, and
collections shifting so fast, that many consumers consider fashion to be
disposable. However, fast, and thus disposable, fashion adds to pollution and
generates environmental hazards, in production, use, and disposal. The
globalization of the textile and fashion industry has also contributed to the
uneven distribution of such environmental hazards and consequences.
Developing countries who typically produce the textile and clothing bear the
burden for developed countries who largely consume the products.

 Putting the environmental perspective at the center, rather than the logic of
the industry, is thus an urgent concern if fashion is to become more
sustainable. The Earth Logic fashion research action plan argues for "putting
the health and survival of our planet earth and consequently the future
security and health of all species including humans, before industry,
business, and economic growth."[83] In making this argument the Earth
Logic plan explicitly connects the global fashion system with the 2018
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) Special Report on
Global Warming of 1.5 °C.

 Furthermore, the Earth Logic fashion research action plan sets out a range of
possible areas for work in a sustainable fashion that scientific and research
 evidence suggests are the most likely to deliver a change of the scale and
pace needed to respond to challenges like climate change. Earth Logic's
point of departure is that the planet, and its people, must be put first, before
profit. It replaces the logic of economic growth, which is arguably the single
largest factor limiting change towards sustainable fashion, with the logic that
puts earth at its center.

Environmental hazards
 The clothing industry has one of the highest impacts on the planet. Cotton
requires approximately 15,000 liters of water to grow for a pair of jeans.
High water usage, pollution from chemical treatments used in dyeing and
preparation and the disposal of large amounts of unsold clothing through
incineration or landfill deposits are hazardous to the environment. There is a
growing water scarcity, the current usage level of fashion materials (79
billion cubic meters annually) is very concerning because textile production
mostly takes place in areas of fresh water stress. Only around 20% of
clothing is recycled or reused, huge amounts of fashion product end up as
waste in landfills or are incinerated. It has been estimated that in the UK
alone around 350,000 tons of clothing ends up as landfill every year.
According to Earth Pledge, a non-profit organization committed to
promoting and supporting sustainable development, "At least 8,000
chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles and 25% of the world's
pesticides are used to grow non-organic cotton. This causes irreversible
damage to people and the environment, and still two thirds of a garment's
carbon footprint will occur after it is purchased." The average American
throws away nearly 70 pounds of clothing per year. Around 5% of the total
waste worldwide stems from the textile industry, the clothing section of the
textile industry has elevated the amount of waste contributing to global
waste.

Linear fashion and circular fashion

Linear fashion
 Fashion currently operates under a linear fashion model designed to
maximize the production and consumption of clothing. In a linear economy,
 we excessively take resources (mostly synthetics made from crude oil),
make products, use them briefly, and when we no longer want them, we
throw them away and repeat the process. Most garments aren’t currently
made to be recycled, reused, repurposed, or biodegradable, so most textiles
end up in landfills or are incinerated.

 Clothing has a significant impact on the environment. Biodiversity loss,

excessive water consumption and contamination, waste, greenhouse gas
emissions, hazardous chemicals, microplastic pollution, soil degradation,
and forest destruction are all byproducts of the fashion industry’s volume-
based model where clothing is regarded as disposable.

 Motivated by the threat of limited resources and a growing concern among

consumers about the environmental impact of their purchases, the fashion
industry has started to embrace the idea of circular fashion.

circular fashion
 Circular fashion is a holistic design approach rooted in Indigenous ancestry
that aims to “design out waste” by reducing the number of natural resources
used to make our clothing and diverting products from landfills. In short,
circular fashion (a closed-loop system) is making new materials out of old
materials.
  If fashion could adopt a closed-loop system, materials would be endlessly
reused and recycled, thus eliminating waste and pollution by limiting the
extractive production of virgin raw materials, regenerating natural systems,
and decreasing textile waste.

 Fashion’s linear model needs radical transformation, and circularity offers

just that. In a circular system, fashion could overcome the global apparel
industry's most pressing issues, including climate change, pollution, and
waste, while simultaneously creating opportunities for responsible growth.

4R’s in sustainability

 Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Repair are also known as “the most important
4R’s”
 of waste management. The concept of 4R’s is to decrease the amount of
things we use and
  simultaneously also decrease the amount of things we throw away. Since we
have limited
 space on earth to dispose all the waste, it is important to use the resources
efficiently and
 create less waste. The 4Rs play an important role in solving the problems
which can arise
 out of wrong waste management habits.

Reduce
 Reduce/Reduction: To make something smaller or use less, resulting in a
smaller amount of waste. Waste reduction simply means reducing the things
that we use and only consume
 what is necessary. This way the amount of waste that is created in the end is
reduced
 and avoids going to the dump. This also reduces the pressure on natural
resources which
 are utilized in treating the waste as well as natural resources which are
required to
 manufacture new things. Reducing things that we use can also save a lot of
money since we
 stop buying the product entirely. For instance, we can reduce the
consumption of bottled
 water and instead carry a steel bottle to avoid sending the used bottles to
landfill/recycling
 plant. Also, avoid buying new toys frequently, rather, build toys to play
with.

Reuse
 Reuse is a method or a practice of using something again. This can be done
to use the
 product for its original purpose or to fulfil a different function. Reusing a
product more than
  one time benefits us as well as the environment. Reusing also helps in saving
time, money,
 energy and resources. For example, there are glass jars at home in the
kitchen. These jars
 are used multiple times after being empty. Old books can be used by other
people after
 being used once. The book can be used for reading or the paper of the book
can be used
 for other purposes if it is a notebook. Use cloth gift bags and stop ripping the
paper off
 gifts . If you remove the wrapping paper carefully, you can use it again.

Recycle
 Recycling is one of the key components in the waste management system. It
is the
 process of converting waste materials into new materials and objects. It is
the practice of
 reprocessing and reusing the items in the same or a different form which
otherwise could
 have been discarded as waste. This process saves a lot of time, energy and
resources and
 money. It also reduces the consumption of natural raw material used to
produce things.
 It is thus important to buy recycled as well as recyclable products in order to
reduce the
 pressure on the environment. For example, your old notebooks can be
recycled into
 recycled paper and then used again to bind notebooks.

These are some things that can be recycled:

• Aluminium Cans • Building Materials
• Cardboard • Electronic Equipment • Glass (particularly bottles and jars) • Lead •
Magazines • Metal • Newspapers • Paint • Paper • Plastic Bags • Plastic Bottles •
Steel
Cans • Tyres • Writing/Copy Paper • Garden Waste
Repair
 These days, we find it easier to buy a new product than to repair and use an
existing
 product. This is true of especially electronic goods like mobile phones and
domestic
 appliances, which can last a long time if repaired when necessary. Reducing,
reusing and
 recycling, decrease both the demands on natural resources, as well as the
rate at which
 they are consumed. Fewer resources are used and supplies that are limited
are conserved.
 In addition, less waste is generated, thereby reducing the amount of trash
that must be
 landfilled or incinerated. As the amount of trash buried or burned decreases,
so too does
 the potential for water and air pollution which can occur as a result of
burning or improper
 disposal of waste. Our world has a limited supply of natural resources,
including land used
 for landfills. All these techniques help us conserve such natural resources.

Moving towards sustainable fashion

 Fashion is, per definition, a phenomenon related to time: a popular

expression in a certain time and context. This also affects the perception of
what is and should be made more sustainable – if fashion should be "fast" or
 "slow"—or if it should be more exclusive or inclusive. Like much other
designs, the objects of fashion exist in the inter-zone between desire and
discard along a temporal axis, between the shimmering urge towards life and
the thermodynamic fate of death. As noted by cultural theorist Brian Thill,
"waste is every object, plus time."

 When it comes down to the garments themselves, their durability depends on

their use and "metabolism"—certain garments are made to withstand long
use (ex. outdoor and hiking wear, winter jackets) whereas other garments
have a quicker turn-around (ex. a party top). This means some garments
have properties and a use-life that could be made more durable, whereas
others should be compostable or recyclable for quicker disintegration.

 Clothing that aren't sold in markets become solid waste clogging areas of
water and ultimately creating "the potential for additional environmental
health hazards in LMICs lacking robust municipal waste systems" Some
garments age well and acquire a patina and a romantic enchantment not
unlike the wonder, fascination and grandeur of historical ruins, whereas the
derelict and discarded rags of last season is an eyesore and nuisance; the first
connotes a majesty of taste, whereas the second is the underclass of waste.

Fast fashion

 One of the most apparent reasons for the current unsustainable condition of
the fashion system is related to the temporal aspects of fashion; the
continuous stream of new goods onto the market, or what is popularly called
"fast fashion." The term fast fashion is used to refer to the fast paced
production of goods at an unethical level which often has a negative impact
on the environment. As a way to conform to the latest fashion styles and
keep consumers wanting new garments, current fast fashion trends pre-
suppose selling clothing in large quantities. Due to fast fashion being
affordable and able to keep up with the trends, there has been an increase in
apparel consumption. Consumption has risen to 62 million tonnes annually
and is projected to reach 102 million tonnes by 2030.
 This type of fashion is produced in vast quantities with low-quality
materials and are sold through chains such as H&M, Zara, Forever21, Shein,
etc. Fast-fashion retailer Shein is one of the most visited fast-fashion
websites in the world and ships to 220 countries, however, there are
questions about Shein's ethics and sustainability as it was responsible for
about 706 billion kilograms of greenhouse gases in 2015 from the
production of polyester textiles and uses up hundreds of gallons of water per
garment.
 Additionally, leaving an aftermath of 6.3 million tons of carbon dioxide
while missing 45% of the UN's goal to reduce carbon emissions by 2030. In
January 2021, Shein offered over 121,000 garments made from polyester,
making up 61% of their clothing total. The fashion industry has a value of
three trillion dollars. It is two percent of the world's gross domestic product
(GDP) - the total monetary or market value of all the finished goods and
services produced within a country's borders in a specific time period. Out
of the three trillion dollars, the majority is made of fast fashion.

 However, the "fast" aspect of consumption is primarily a problem for the

environment when done on a massive scale. As long as fast conspicuous
consumption was reserved to the rich, the global impact was not reaching
public attention or seen as a problem. That is, "fast" shopping sprees of
haute couture is not seen as a problem, rather it is celebrated (for example in
movies such as Pretty Woman), whereas when people with less means shop
fast fashion, it is seen as unethical and a problem. Today, the speed of fast
fashion is common across the whole industry as exclusive fashion replicates
the fast fashion chains with continuous releases of collections and product
drops: the quality of a garment does not necessarily translate to a slower
pace of consumption and waste. These releases are only exasperated by the
acceleration of fashion trends. As micro-trends are only lasting an average of
3 years, the demand for clothes has also accelerated.

 In addition to its negative environmental impact, fast fashion is unethical.

Keeping up with fashion trends causes clothing to be produced in a harmful
manner. "Fast" clothing is made with synthetic fibers as opposed to natural
 fibers. The synthetic fibers are made using the Earth's fossil fuels. Almost
sixty percent of clothes are made this way.
 Since people spend so much money on these types of clothes and purchase
them so frequently, landfills are filling up quickly. Over sixty percent of
clothes made every year end up in landfills as consumer waste, and almost
twenty percent of the world's waste is constituted by fashion products.
Therefore, because fast fashion frequently introduces new collections,
consumer consumption increases.
 Consequently, leading consumers to view low-cost apparel as disposable
since there are continuous releases of products. Production of these types of
clothing is also commonly exploitative, with most factories that produce
"fast" clothing employing workers on low wages in exploitative
environments. Workers from Shein reported making as little as 35 cents per
garment produced, as well as operating on 18-hour workdays with 1 day off
per month.
 Exploitative fast fashion production is prevalent in countries like China,
Bangladesh and Vietnam. Hard labor was always around in the fashion
industry dating back to when slave labor helped factories gather their
materials. People making these clothes today suffer from harsh working
conditions, low wages, and risks to health and safety.

"Slow" fashion

 Slow fashion can be seen as an alternative approach against fast fashion,

based on principles of the slow food movement. Characteristics of
sustainable fashion match the philosophies of "slow fashion" in that
emotional, ecological and ethical qualities are favored over uniform and
bland convenience with minimal friction. It requires a changed infrastructure
and a reduced through-put of goods. Categorically, slow fashion is neither
business-as-usual nor just involving design classics. Nor is it production-as-
usual but with long lead times. Slow fashion is a vision of the fashion sector
built from a different starting point. Slow fashion is a fashion concept that
reflects a perspective, which respects human living conditions, biological,
cultural diversity and scarce global resources and creates unique,
personalized products.
 The term Slow Fashion came about quite organically. It was coined by Kate
Fletcher of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, following the phenomena of
the slow food movement. As with the slow food movement, Fletcher saw a
need for a slower pace in the fashion industry.

 Slow fashion challenges growth fashion's obsession with mass-production

and globalized style. It becomes a guardian of diversity and changes the
power relations between fashion creators and consumers, therefore forging
new relationships and trust that are only possible at smaller scales. It fosters
a heightened state of awareness of the design process and its impacts on
resource flows, workers, communities, and ecosystems.

 A slow-fashion garment often consists of durable materials, traditional

production techniques, or design concepts that are seasonless or will last for
more than a season. Several points of the production chain are affected by
slowness. Textile workers in developing countries earn higher wages
because of slow fashion. For end-users, slow fashion means that the goods
are designed and manufactured with greater care and high-quality products.
From an environmental point of view, it means that there are less clothing
and industrial waste that is removed from use following transient trends.
Throughout the process, durability is considered; emotionally, materially,
aesthetically, or by including services that extend the garment's life.
Additionally, creative ideas and product innovations constantly redefine
slow fashion, so using a static, single definition would ignore the evolving
nature of the concept.

 Examples of stability of expression over long times are abundant in the

history of dress, not least in ethnic or folk dress, ritual or coronation robes,
clerical dress, or the uniforms of the Vatican Guard. The emphasis on
slowness in branding is thus an approach that is specific for a niche in the
market (such as Western-educated middle-class) that has since the 1990s
become dominated by "fast" models. One of the earliest brands that gained
global fame with an explicit focus on slow fashion, the Anglo-Japanese
brand People Tree, embraces the concept of ethical trade, manufactures all
 products in accordance with ethical commerce standards, and supports local
producers and craftsmen in developing countries. The People Tree brand is
known as the first fashion company to receive the World Fair Trade
Organization product label in 2013, demonstrating their dedication to fair
trade and the environment.

 The concept of slow fashion is however not without its controversies, as the
imperative of slowness is a mandate emerging from a position of privilege.
To stop consuming "fast fashion" strikes against low-income consumers
whose only means to access trends is through cheap and accessible goods.
Those who are already having a high position in society can afford to slow
down and cement their status and position, while those on their way up
resent being told to stay at the lower rungs of the status hierarchy. "The
prestige of slowness allows a cultural signifier for those already have social
positions to preserve, and have time and money to take it easy and enjoy the
pleasures of reflection and meditate over their moral superiority."

Environmental impact of fast fashion.

 Fast fashion does not only have a huge environmental impact. In fact, the
industry also poses societal problems, especially in developing economies.
According to non-profit Remake, 80% of apparel is made by young women
between the ages of 18 and 24. A 2018 US Department of Labor report
found evidence of forced and child labour in the fashion industry in
Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, Philippines, Turkey,
Vietnam and others. Rapid production means that sales and profits supersede
human welfare.

 In 2013, an eight-floor factory building that housed several garment factories

collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh, killing 1 134 workers and injuring more
than 2,500. In her project, An Analysis of the Fast Fashion Industry, Annie
Radner Linden suggests that ‘the garment industry has always been a low-
capital and labour intensive industry’.

 In her book, No Logo, Naomi Klein argues that developing nations are
viable for garment industries due to ‘cheap labour, vast tax breaks, and
lenient laws and regulations’. According to The True Cost, one in six people
work in some part of the global fashion industry, making it the most labour-
dependent industry. These developing nations also rarely follow
environmental regulations; China, for example, is a major producer of fast
fashion but is notorious for land degradation and air and water pollution.