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The Bedford Cord - Class Note Final

The document discusses Bedford cord weaves. Bedford cords are produced using a long float weft rib as the base weave combined with plain or twill weaves. Cords are formed where the warp floats on alternate picks, separated by plain weave sections called "cutting ends." Wadded Bedford cords contain extra warp yarns called "wadding ends" between the cords and floats to give the cords more prominence. Bedford cords are classified based on whether the face is plain or twill weave and whether wadding ends are used. Diagrams illustrate the weaving patterns for different Bedford cord constructions.

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Debapriya Maity
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1K views7 pages

The Bedford Cord - Class Note Final

The document discusses Bedford cord weaves. Bedford cords are produced using a long float weft rib as the base weave combined with plain or twill weaves. Cords are formed where the warp floats on alternate picks, separated by plain weave sections called "cutting ends." Wadded Bedford cords contain extra warp yarns called "wadding ends" between the cords and floats to give the cords more prominence. Bedford cords are classified based on whether the face is plain or twill weave and whether wadding ends are used. Diagrams illustrate the weaving patterns for different Bedford cord constructions.

Uploaded by

Debapriya Maity
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta

The Bedford cord class of weave produces longitudinal warp lines in the cloth with fine sunken lines in between. The Bedford weaves are constructed by combining a long float weft rib as base weave and plain or basic twill as face. To produce more prominent cords firm plain weave to be used. If the sett is a bit crowed, the wefts cannot shrink in the plain-weave part of the cloth because there is no place for them to go. The weft floats on the other hand, are free to shrink, thus rounding out the cord. In the design of bed ford cords, two series of warp threads are considered. The first group constitutes the face threads which weave as cord and plain weave on alternate or pair of picks. The other group of threads known as cutting ends weaves as plain. The cutting ends separate the neighboring cords. Wadded Bedford Cords These structures contain thick wadding or padding ends which lie between the rib face cloth and the weft floats on the underside ; the object of the arrangement being to give greater prominence to the cords. Wadding ends are used to give the cord further stability and help to prevent it from becoming flattened. The wadding threads never interlace with weft, but lie perfectly straight between the ridges of their respective cords and the floating weft at the back. This condition necessitates the wadding threads being wound upon a separate warp beam, and held at greater tension than face warp threads during weaving. Generally method of denting is two ends per split, the wadding ends being dented extra. If finer yarns are used for producing cords then denting is three or four ends per split. The number of wadding ends to each cord may be varied according to requirements.

Classification of Bedford cords:


Bedford cords are classified as shown below.

Bedford Cord

Plain faced

Twill faced only on alternate picks

pair of picks

alternate picks

Without Wadded Without Wadded


Wadded

Wadded

Without Wadded

Wadded

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta

Plain face Bedford Cord, arranged with pair of pick:

4 2 1 3
C

Fig 1 (a): Cross sectional view of Plain face Bedford Cord, arranged with pair of pick Principle


C C


C C C C

Step 1: Select the repeat size and mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn

Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and second picks of a cord , and on the third and fourth picks on the other cords.

6 5 4 3 2 1

X X

X X

X X X X X X X X X X X

4 3 2 1


C C


1 2 3 4 5 6

Fig 1 (b): Design, drafting and lifting plan of Plain face Bedford Cord, arranged with pair of pick Principle each cord consists of six ends

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta


Plain face warded Bedford Cord arranged with pair of pick:

4 2 1 3
Fig 2 (a): Cross sectional view of Plain face Bedford Cord with warded yarn, arranged with pair of pick principle


C W W C


C W W C

Step 1: Select the repeat size , mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn and placing of wadded yarn


C C

Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and second picks of a cord , and on the third and fourth picks on the other cords.


C C

Step 3: Complete the design by inserting marks indicating interlacement of face warps with first, second, third and fourth picks.

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta


Plain face Bedford Cord arranged with alternate pick:


C C

Step 1: Select the repeat size and mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn


C C

Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and third picks of a cord , and on the second and fourth picks on the other cords.

Step 3: Complete the design by inserting marks indicating interlacement of face warps with first, second, third and fourth picks

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta


Plain face wadded Bedford Cord arranged with alternate pick:


C W W


W W C


C C

Step 1: Select the repeat size and mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn


C C

Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and third picks of a cord , and on the second and fourth picks on the other cords.


C C C C

Step 3: Complete the design by inserting marks indicating interlacement of face warps with first, second, third and fourth picks.

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta


Twill faced Bedford Cord:

C F F F

F F F

C C F

F F F

F F C

Twill faced wadded Bedford Cord:

C F F W F F W F F C C F F W F F W F F C

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