9 5 THE BEST MAG FOR MAKERS, MODEL AND HOBBY ENGINEERS

o.2
N

Join the conversation at: www.model-engineer.co.uk JULY2020

INSIDE
z Cherry Hill
interview
z Make an Optical
Centre Punch
Making ACME z An Intelligent
nuts for a Tom Dividing Head
Senior Mill
z Readers’
Workshop -
Andrew Johnston
z How to Dismantle
a Chuck

Lockdown Project
- a Scratch Gauge

COVER STORY
ENGINEERING GROUP

£5.25

MEWsonic - make Mark Noel’s

Ultrasonic Cleaning Tank
GET MORE OUT OF YOUR WORKSHOP WITH MEW
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I think most readers will know I’m an
EDITORIAL
Editor: Neil Wyatt advocate of 3D printing, but I have to admit
Tel: +44 (0)1689 869 912 I’m absolutely astonished by some of the
Email: neil.wyatt@mytimemedia.com parts my own, rather humble, kit-built printer
has produced over the lockdown. A part-
PRODUCTION
Designer: Andrew Tompkins packed workshop means I have been relying
Illustrator: Grahame Chambers on 3D printing rather more heavily over the
Retouching: Andrew Tompkins lockdown than usual, including for parts I would never have considered 3D printing.
Ad Production: Andrew Tompkins
For example, I’m making an ‘equatorial platform’ to mount my 10” Dobsonian
ADVERTISING telescope on, so it can track objects more easily. The scope weighs about 30kg, and
Business Development Manager: Angela Price most platforms are made of metal and plywood. While my version does have a few
Email: angela.price@mytimemedia.com
turned parts and a plywood base and scope platform, the rest is 3D printed, including
MARKETING & SUBSCRIPTIONS the curved sectors that guide its movement. Indeed, 3D printing allowed me to make
Subscription Manager: Kate Hall the sectors true slices of a cone rather than the more usual choice of approximating
MANAGEMENT them with a narrow slice of a cylinder. The part illustrated holds the driven roller and
Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger includes press-in ball races and a stepper motor, as well as two printed timing pulleys
Email: rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com for a 1.5mm pitch belt. Strength-wise, it’s more than capable of taking my weight.
Chief Executive: Owen Davies Another project came out of discussion with my brother, and it’s going to be a
radio-controlled model of a WWII Beaverette armoured car in 1:12 scale. I started
by printing the tyres, a logical place to start? I used TPU a flexible, filament that
gives very tough parts. I searched for ‘differential’ on the Thingiverse website
© MyTimeMedia Ltd. 2020
and discovered various ‘remixes’ of working differentials for 1:10 scale racing cars
All rights reserved ISSN 0959-6909 and buggies. These are typically arranged with universal joints for independent
The Publisher’s written consent must be obtained before any part of this publication suspension, but I made a few changes and designed a split casing to suit a live axle
may be reproduced in any form whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information
retrieval systems. All reasonable care is taken in the preparation of the magazine arrangement. My finished item is overscale but fits the track of the model and works
contents, but the publishers cannot be held legally responsible for errors in the perfectly. The little bevel gears inside the ‘diff’ are just 15mm in diameter and the only
contents of this magazine or for any loss however arising from such errors, including
loss resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance placed upon the contents of this metal parts are bearings, M3 screws and a 20mm length of 1/8” rod. I have to admire
magazine is at reader’s own risk.
Model Engineers’ Workshop, ISSN 0959-6909, is published monthly with
the ingenuity of the makers who devised the original OpenRC cars (which appear to
an additional issue in August by MYTIMEMEDIA Ltd, Enterprise House, Enterprise perform comparably to kit-built ones!)
Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF, UK. The US annual subscription price is 52.95GBP
(equivalent to approximately 88USD). Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent Previously it hadn’t occurred to me just how great the potential is for using 3D
named WN Shipping USA, 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA.
Periodicals postage paid at Brooklyn, NY 11256. printing to prototype smaller working mechanisms that are later remade to be more
US Postmaster: Send address changes to Model Engineers' Workshop, WN Shipping durable or accurate. That differential could be scaled down further, and copied in
USA, 156-15, 146th Avenus, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY11434, USA. Subscription records
are maintained at DSB.net Ltd, 3 Queensbridge, The Lakes, Northampton, NN4 5DT. metal while keeping the printed tyres and perhaps using 3D printed parts as patterns
Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent.
for axle castings.

Stay safe and well,

July 2020 3
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Contents
9 Constructing the MEWsonic: a
homemade ultrasonic cleaner
Mark Noel gives detailed instruction on
how to make a powerful sonic cleaning
60
tank for your workshop.

13 A Simple Scratch Gauge

Jim Binnie offers this handy little tool
that gives greater precision and accuracy
when you need to mark parallel to an
edge.

16 Harold Hall’s Grinding Rest

Probably one of the most well
remembered tool builds published in
MEW. Many readers have made this
device to add precision to a standard
bench grinder or devised their own
versions of it.

24 New Motion Nuts for a Tom

Senior M1
Laurie Leonard replaced the worn and
battered feed nuts in his otherwise very 36 Desk top Gear Hobbing he assumed we wouldn’t need metric
nice old mill. In this month’s instalment, Toby Kinsey threads!
looks at the electronics for this gear
29 Home Made Precision Optics hobber. 54 Starrett-Type Clamps for
This article by Stan Bray appeared in Model Engineers
the very first issue of MEW; you won’t 45 Cherry Hill’s Workshop Stewart Hart completes this handy
argue with the usefulness of these Concluding the 2008 exclusive interview device inspired by a 19th century design.
handy tools. with Cherry Hill which previously only
appeared in a special magazine with 60 Readers’ Workshops
34 Machine of the Future limited distribution. Andrew Johnston gives us a tour of
Geoff Harding muses on lathes of the his very comprehensively equipped
future, inspired by his Murad Bormilathe. 50 The Rawson Divider workshop, sized to tackle large scale
With a different take on electronic traction engine models.
dividing Adrian Rawson details his
‘intelligent’ device.

53 Geometer
Ian Bradley offers advice to beginners on
using taps and dies – although in 1954

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6 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop
 HOME FEATURES WORKSHOP EVENTS FORUMS ALBUMS

Coming up… Visit our

in our next issue
Coming up in our June issue, number 296, another great read
Website
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twitter.com/ModelEngineers hashtag #MEW

Regulars THIS MONTH’S BONUS CONTENT

Log on to the website for extra content
3 On the Editor’s Bench
Visit our website to access extra downloads, tutorials, examples
The Editor is surprised by the capabilities of 3D printing.
and links.
www.model-engineer.co.uk/extracontent
21 Readers’ Tips
Any questions? If you have any questions about our recent
A cross-slide lock for Myford 7-series lathes, that could be
Lathework for Beginners or Milling for Beginners series, or you
adapted for other machines.
would like to suggest ideas or topics for future instalments, head
over to www.model-engineer.co.uk where there are Forum
42 On the Wire
Topics specially to support these series.
More news from the Engineering World, with a glimpse into
Our Web forum continues to be exceptionally busy, and we
the world of robotic assembly.
have welcomed many more new
members. The forum is a ‘safe
58 Scribe A Line
space’ for anyone with an interest
Another packed postbag full of reader feedback and ideas.
in model and hobby engineering to
come and join one of the busiest
63 Readers’ Classifieds
and friendliest model engineering
As lockdown eases, we’re seeing the number of reader ads
forums on the web at www.
increase again.
model-engineer.co.uk?
As well as plenty of engineering and hobby related discussion,
we are happy for forum members to use it to share advice and
support. If you feel isolated or lonely do join us and be assured of a
warm welcome.
My new lathe a Warco918
An interesting thread moving from first impressions to making
some practical modifications.
How does one scale a worm gear?
Looking at the main challenge of modelling a BCA Jig Borer in 1:3
scale.
ON THE COVER ››› Pulley Sizes for an X2 Clone Conversion
This thread shows a wide range of approaches to this popular
Our cover shows Mark Noel’s
conversion of a popular mill
MEWsonic ultrasonic cleaning
tank. See page 9 for details of this
new project. CLASSIFIEDS EXTRA SUBSCRIBE ARCHIVE SUPPLIERS

July 2020 7
 MEWSonic Cleaner

Constructing the
MEWsonic: a homemade
ultrasonic cleaner
Mark Noel shows how you can build your own sonic cleaning tank from readily
available parts

The completed MEWsonic Professional. The blue flexi-tube on the right is for sucking cleaning fluid from the tank, while the one on
the left is used to suspend parts for cleaning.

R
ecently I was given two model be the basis of a renewed interest all the electronic components for such a
glow engines that had been in aeromodelling, but the cost of project were commercially available, while
unused for many years and which having these and the Mikuni cleaned deep in the Womble burrow were other
were gummed solid with dried up fuel professionally would make a dent bits that could be pressed to the task.
and castor oil. By sheer coincidence the in my workshop budget. Surely the After reviewing features seen in a range
Mikuni carburettor on my motorcycle solution was to buy, or why not build, of hobby grade cleaners, I decided to
had developed blocked jets, causing my own ultrasonic cleaner? With such a attempt a design with similar or perhaps
problems with uneven tickover. My machine in the workshop it might then even better capabilities. The design brief
local bike dealer offered to send the be possible to revive other items such that emerged was as follows:
Mikuni and the glow engines away for as clogged taps and dies, old files and • Dual piezo transducers delivering
ultrasonic cleaning, pointing out that drill chucks, by ridding them of stubborn 100W of 40kHz sonic power.
these carbs’ need repeated attention grime. The result of this endeavour is • A 60 minute timer with bell sounder
“owing to the bioethanol toffee they the MEWsonic Professional Ultrasonic to signal completion of the cleaning
put in modern petrol”. The pair of Cleaner shown in photo 1. process.
refurbished glow engines were to A scan of the Internet showed that • Stainless steel, heated tank ›

July 2020 9
 2

incorporating thermal safety switches.

• Digital display of tank temperature.
• Parts to be suspended either in a
basket or via articulated ‘cranes’.
• An electric pump to empty the tank
automatically, minimising mess.
• A retractable hose to discharge the
waste cleaning fluid.
The concept of cleaning objects
with powerful, high frequency sound
has been around since the 1950s
and is today widely used in industry,
in jewellery, dental and medical
laboratories and in the final stage of
circuit board assembly where flux
residues need to be removed from
solder joints. In recent years affordable,
compact sonic cleaners have become
more widely available, finding their
way into homes and hobby workshops,
with one of the main UK suppliers being Major components for constructing the ultrasonic cleaner, including the lower pan of a
Allendale Ultrasonics in Hoddesdon, steamer set and an ABS box by CamdenBoss. The pair of 40kHz transducers and driver
Hertfordshire. board are seen at lower right.
In most machines the ultrasound is
produced using stacked piezoelectric they can penetrate and exert a cleaning 3
wafers bolted to a solid metal horn action inside narrow cavities and drill
which directs the vibrations into the holes, such as within a carburettor or
attached cleaning vessel. The wafer dental turbine. The process is usually
material is an exotic ceramic such as accelerated by using special liquids
lead zirconate titanate which dilates and tailored to the cleaning task at hand,
contracts when an alternating voltage and by warming the tank to further
is applied between opposing faces. By increase their effectiveness. A key
stacking these wafers, and using high feature of ultrasonic cleaning is that it
voltages, the alternating expansion- generally causes no damage to the host
contraction becomes appreciable and material, provided that it is sufficiently
sufficient to send violent vibrations robust, such as a metal, ceramic or glass.
into the vessel’s fluid. These sonic Nevertheless, the process is hazardous
waves tear the liquid apart, creating in that it can cause nerve damage or
tiny cavitation bubbles which appear burns to fingers placed in the tank while
and collapse in tune with the sound, cleaning is underway.
creating pulsating high pressures and I began the project by purchasing
temperatures which dislodge unwanted a pair of 40 kHz transducers and a
material. These bubbles are so small that supposedly matched driver board from Panel on the steamer set packaging
describing the layer structure of the
4 encapsulated water pan.

one of several sellers advertising on

eBay, the aim being to perform an initial
‘proof of concept’. The circuit board
was happy to drive one of the supplied
transducers, which responded with
the high pitched squeal typical of such
devices. However, this board failed when
connected to both transducers, denting
my confidence in the anonymous
manufacturer of these components. A
pair 40kHz transducers and a certified
100W driver board were therefore
purchased from Allendale, and were
clearly of better quality than the ebay
parts. Although these arrived without
instructions, their technical guru Kassim
Chohan advised how to electrically
connect the transducers: the terminal in
Close up of the water pan base showing the edge of the encapsulated outer skin. the centre of the wafer stack is positive.

10 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 MEWSonic Cleaner

5 6

Using a carborundum disc in a rotary tool in an attempt to Choice of drills for safely boring holes in thin sheet material.
remove the encapsulated outer layer. The outcome was to Sometimes the combination of a plain twist drill and a fabric wad
puncture the bowl. can be effective.

This is important since reversing the These are made of thin gauge stainless it proved impossible to distinguish
polarity can damage the units. A quick steel usually ‘encapsulated’ with a thin between the (shiny) stainless steel
bench test proved that the Allendale layer of aluminium between the inner and the (equally shiny) aluminium
board was capable of driving both and outer stainless skins to improve heat inner layer, which seemed to be tightly
transducers in parallel, the result being conduction. Photo 4 provides a close up bonded together and unseparable. As a
quite a racket. It was noted that the heat of the encapsulated outer layer which result, I accidentally removed too many
sinks on the power transistors became appears to be seamlessly united to the nuclei and the cutter made a hole in the
fairly warm after less than a minute, inner skin, presumably by electrical pan. Ouch! Nevertheless, this experience
suggesting that it would be a good idea resistance seam welding. did indicate that the three-layer base
to incorporate fan-cooling of the board Faced with this choice of vessel I was was so firmly encapsulated that it was
once installed. concerned that the 3-layer sandwich unlikely to attenuate the ultrasound.
Originally my plan was to design might impede coupling of ultrasound Another steamer set was purchased
an enclosure that was a good fit to all between the transducers and the from the workshop overdraft, its handles
the components, have the sides laser tank fluid because of air gaps in the ground away, and consideration then
cut from 3mm acrylic, and then bond encapsulation. Therefore it seemed given as to how to bore 10mm holes for
these together with solvent adhesive. prudent to cut away the outer base bolting on the transducers.
Since each of the six sides and internal layer and remove the inner aluminium Drilling thin sheet metal is probably
brackets would be one-offs, this solution disc in order to enhance the ultrasound one of the most hazardous jobs in the
would have been quite expensive, transmission. I set about this task with workshop. Without secure clamps
although it does provide total freedom a thin carborundum disc in a rotary there is always the risk that the part
in the design and choice of colours. The tool guided by hand with nanometre can grab and ride up the drill, becoming
box could even have been transparent precision (photo 5). As I slowly abraded an effective finger slicer. Stainless
with all the workings visible, rather the stainless steel, atom by atom, steel is the worst candidate for this
like the early Apple iMac G3. Readers
wishing to repeat this project might 7
want to consider this trendy option!
Eventually, I discovered that Rapid
Electronics stock a CamdenBoss ABS
box (photo 2), with hinged lid that was
a perfect match to the required size, and
so this shape determined how all the
major components were to be arranged
inside.
A major problem was sourcing a
suitable thin-walled stainless steel
tank with a capacity of about 2 litres,
i.e. about the right size for the parts
I wanted to clean. My search ranged
over stock pots, saucepans, storage
boxes, biscuit tins, billy cans and even
dog bowls, the inspection of which
greatly alarmed our dog! Eventually, the
best match was found in the kitchen
cupboard - namely the bottom water The alternative method of drilling thin sheet metal by plunging a twist drill through a
pan of a steamer set (photos 2 & 3). wad of fabric into the metal. However, this technique is not always effective. ›

July 2020 11
 8

• A 600W ATX computer power supply

from Amazon.
• A small CPU cooling fan and a larger
main board fan from a dead PC.
• A Bakelite knob from an old valve
radio.
• Two rocker switches purchased from
Rapid Electronics.
• Four 20W, 12V heater foils from ebay.
• Two 45ºC, normally closed, thermal
limit switches from ebay.
• A pair of plastic carriers for 22 calibre
rifle cartridges, without the bullets!
• The ventilation grille from an old
tumble drier.
• 12V fuel pump and two flexible spouts
from ebay.
• Various washers, spacers and cable clips.
Additional small parts used to complete the build, including 4 brass components made The Allendale ultrasonic board is
from ½” to ¼” BSP brass couplings. The centre pair are for fixing transducers, the other powered from the 240V mains, while
two are for plumbing the pump to the PVC tubing and for mounting the crane. a reliable ATX power supply was
needed to provide 12V and 5V for the
task since it quickly work hardens and work”. It was only after several months pan heaters, the temperature sensor
is therefore best tackled with HSS or of frustration that I learned that and display. Having had problems with
carbide tools, proper lubrication and ‘Government work’ or ‘Guvvy jobs’ cheap salvaged units in the past (no
a firm feed to prevent scuffing and were actually private work and that the short circuit protection) I opted for a
consequent hardening. A diamond core secretive Dr Jessop was making parts for quality unit from EVGA which had been
drill might seem the best tool in this his yacht! Happily, I now have my own highly rated in Web reviews. My article
instance but reports suggest that the workshop where the entire enterprise is in MEW226 (March 2015) explained how
cutting edge can quickly clog, reducing directed towards Government work. these units can be adapted to provide a
its effectiveness. The safest approach to Anyway, back to the task in hand. The versatile workshop power supply.
drilling thin sheet material is to use the base of the pan was centre punched and Out of my Womble box came three
cone or stepped drills shown on the left a pair of 10mm diameter holes bored timer units salvaged from deceased
in photo 6. This image shows a third though using a HSS cone drill in pools microwave ovens (photo 9). These
option comprising a normal twist drill of Rocol cutting fluid. By supporting the appliances, by the way, are a wondrous
and a wad of old rag - a novel approach base on a block of aluminium, the burrs source of components, including
that sometimes works. Gentlemen, there rising from the cuts were reduced but a megamagnet that can pull iron
is no need to sacrifice your Y-fronts for the rotary grinding tool seen in photo 5 meteorites from the sky. Most timers are
this operation, since tests show that was still needed to trim the edges and made by Sankyo with 30 or 60 minute
knickers perform just as well. The idea provide flush seats for the transducers. intervals that terminate with a pleasing
is to centre the drill over the part and The same tool was used to cut away ‘ding’ to say that dinner is ready. The 60
then drill smartly through the wad and the pair of handles spot welded to the minute Model from a Philips microwave
into the metal as shown in photo 7. rim of the pan. (centre photo 9) is particularly
Somehow the fabric pad guides the After sourcing the pan and the interesting since it has a non-linear
drill tip preventing it from making a ultrasonic components the remaining graduation, moving faster for the first 10
polygonal hole and from grabbing parts were either purchased or minutes than it does for the remainder.
the part as mentioned earlier. As a unearthed from my box of Womble
postgraduate at Newcastle University (photos 2 & 8): zTo be continued
I was shown this tip by the long-
suffering technician in charge of our 9
student workshop - a magical place that
provided my initiation into the world
of hands-on engineering. However,
my entry into Bert’s domain was not
without impediments. My project
called for a coil former to be turned on
something they said was called a ‘lathe’,
but Bert deflected me, stating firmly
that the Myford was occupied by Dr.
Jessop who is “busy with Government
work”. A week later I tried to book time
on another contraption they said was
called a ‘milling machine’ but once again
I was barred by the fact that “Dr. Jessop
is using the Bridgeport for Government Three salvaged Sankyo microwave oven timers. The leftmost one was used in this project.

12 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Scratch Gauge

A Simple
Scratch Gauge
This neat little marking out tool from Jim Binnie offers greater precision than
traditional calipers
1

This neat scratch gauge offers greater precision than odd-legg or ‘jenny’ calipers.

I
became disenchanted with odd leg calipers when 2
marking out a job and decided a scratch gauge based on a
woodworkers gauge might be a better option. It is made
from left over materials and my design can be altered to suit
what the builder wants. The gauge is in three parts the main
body, the sliding spindle and the locking screw.

1 Main Body.
The main body is made from 20mm square mild steel bar
60mm long ,the ends are faced square in the lathe and one
end is drilled and tapped 6mm x1mm pitch thread 12mm deep,
the ends are chamfered for a neat appearance, I have cleaned
up th sides of the main body on my linisher, (if a linisher is not
available then how about a sheet of 120 grit emery cloth tacked
to a wooden board so the job can be rubbed on the emery?)
The next task is to mark out a hole in the main body 15 mm
from the end, drill 8mm diameter and ream.
This picture offers a better view of the clamp screw. ›

July 2020 13
 3 4
This rod across the front of the Boxford BUD is arranged to A simple tip for a magnetic tool tray that will suit many lathes
provide a reliable leg-operated emergency stop. with a large leadscrew gearbox.

2 Sliding Spindle. flat filed along its length for the locking When setting the gauge place a rule
The sliding spindle is a piece of 8mm screw to grip it and hold it in place. against the main body and move the
round mild steel bar,the ends are faced sliding spindle to the required setting
square in the lathe and both ends a 3 Locking Screw. and lock with the screw.
drilled and tapped 4mm .I have used a The locking screw is made from a small
tungsten carbide lathe tool triangular piece of material (I used brass) 20 mm Boxford Tips
insert to cut the scribed lines because diameter knurled chamfered then drilled The last two photos show some
of its hardness but a High Speed Steel and tapped 6mm then countersunk and modifications I have done to my
scriber point would also work quite well finally parted off to give a length of Boxford BUD lathe. Photograph 3 is a
with a extra cross drilled hole to hold it. about 8mm,fit a countersunk headed leg operated safety stop switch, while
A 4mm cap head screw holds the carbide screw 20mm long use a thread locking photo 4 shows a storage tray attached
bit in place. The spindle has a 3mm wide compound. to the headstock via a magnet. ■

14 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

From the Archives:
Grinding Rest
Harold Hall, MEW Issue
89, April 2003 - Part 2 Ask a group of Model Engineers’ Workshop
readers what they think are the best tool
builds to appear in the magazine over the
Grinding Rest Accessories
The full extent of the adjustable off years, and you will get many different
hand grinding rest’s capabilities will only answers, but you can be sure that one
be realised by the addition of various
particular article will be mentioned over and
accessories. First however, please make
sure you follow the very important again: Harold Hall’s grinding rest.
safety considerations in Box 1.

The accessories
Fence and stop assembly (11) IMPORTANT SAFETY REQUIREMENTS
This is an essential part of the system • Do wear safety glasses or a face mask, and ensure wheel guard is fitted.
being used to accurately guide the part • Due to the item being ground often being unsupported close to the wheel
being ground, either across the face of when using the accessories, only take very light Cuts. The depth of cut should
the wheel or down its side. A stop screw be controlled by the fine feed and the fence rather than manually.
can be fitted when required to ensure • Make multiple passes rather than try to remove a great depth at a single
that the part being ground cannot pass pass.
beyond a certain point. • Keep the overhang of the tool from the accessory holding it to a minimum.
Much milling work can be carried • In view of the overhang do ensure the accessory is held firmly down on the
out without using a vice as the work rest’s table.
holding device. Where a vice does come • Keep the table and the sliding surfaces of the accessory as free of grinding
into its own, is with the smaller items dust as possible. This results in easier hand feeding and makes for safer
which are much more difficult to hold working.
by other means. The adjustable fence • The rest can be used as a conventional off hand grinding rest in which
(11) is a typical instance. Machine lower case ensure that the front edge of the table is no more than 1mm from the
web, photo 20. Turn over, hold on web grinding wheel and the item being ground supported by the rest’s table.
just made, and machine top surface to • When the grinder is running do not make adjustments to the rest, other than
reduce thickness to 6mm. Drill and tap using the table’s fine feeds.
holes. Radius web ends using a file. Note • Make sure that all locking levers are firmly tightened before starting grinder.
that the two M4 tapped holes are shown • As the grinding rest is not directly mounted off the bench grinder it is
blind. If drilled through, then grinding essential that both are mounted on a very robust base. If this is not done
the rest will be able to move relative to the off-hand grinder when in use.
At best this may result in inaccurate results but much worse be the cause
of a serious accident.

dust will find its way very easily into

the threads. The assembly also requires
some turned washers (33). However, I Much milling
will not comment on them in the text,
as the drawings should give all the
information required. can be carried out
Photograph 21 shows the fence
fitted. It can of course be in any one
of the three slots. The web which fits
without using a
into the slot is shorter than the slot
permitting coarse adjustment of the stop
screw position. Final adjustment will
vice as the work
be achieved using the fine feed facility
of the rest. You may find it easier to fit holding device.
the fence to the table if you remove the
table from the remainder of the rest.

16 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Grinding Rest

20

Milling the fence.

Square workpiece holder and

swivel base, AS3
The main purpose of the holder is to
hold square section lathe tools but no
doubt other uses will surface. The base
(31) is used for setting the angle of the
workpiece relative to the feed direction
and is also used with many of the
remaining accessories. For simplicity it is
not shown on their drawings but can be
seen in the photographs.
To machine the square workpiece
holder (32) mount on an angle plate
using a parallel to ensure the part is and tap holes. Cut a length of 50 x 6mm holder on the swivel base at an angle
parallel to the machine table. Commence for the Swivel Base Machine (31) ends to suit the tool’s side relief and with the
machining groove with an 8 or 10mm to 75mm, again using the angle plate for rest’s table angled left to right to suit the
slot drill, working to the 5mm dimension. mounting. Drill and tap holes. tooI’s side clearance. Photograph 22
Open up to 13mm using an end mill. Drill To sharpen a lathe tool, mount the and fig 34 show this operation.

21 22

Using the square tool holder on the

The finished fence in position. swivel base to sharpen a lathe tool. ›

July 2020 17
 23

Some of the basic accessories for the grinding rest

18 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Grinding Rest

lf you have studied the grinding rest

in detail you may consider that the
angle set using the swivel base would
actually be achieved using the rest’s
swivel facility. This is not so, its use,
with a few exceptions, is purely to set
the approach angle of the face being
ground to the wheel.
When grinding a portion from the
side of a workpiece it would seem
obvious that the feed direction should
be parallel to the side of the wheel, see
Sk4(A). However, any small error in the
approach angle could cause the part to Sk4(C) shows this arrangement.
be additionally ground on its side, as in This may seem like a procedure-to
Sk4(B). ln view of this, feed direction is overcome the accuracy limitations of the
deliberately set to an angle to the side home workshop, it is though frequently
of the wheel to avoid this possibility. adopted practice in industry. Sk4(D,E ›

July 2020 19
 and F) show the same situations and milling cutters such as those in
relative to the front face of the wheel. photo 23.
This angle, set by the rest’s swivelling Details of these various accessories
facility, should only be a degree or two were later published in his book Tool
maximum. and Cutter and Sharpening, Workshop
Practice Series number 38, Special
Postscript Interest Model Books, available from
Harold Hall followed up with further www.myhobbystore.co.uk, search for
articles on various accessories to ‘wps 38’. Harold’s website give details
simplify grinding all sorts of items from on using the rest at www.homews.
screwdrivers and scribers to lathe tools co.uk/page224.html ■

20 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Readers’ Tips

Readers’ Tips
Cross-slide lock TIP OF
THE MONT
for Myford 7 lathe WINNER!
H

This month our lucky winner of £30 in Chester gift vouchers is

Peter Brewer who suggests a simple addition that allows the
cross-slide of a Myford 7-series lathe to be locked.
In essence, the two cap screws on the front LHF corner of
the saddle are replaced with longer versions that hold a small
fitting housing a brass pad which can be pushed against the
cross-slide using a socket head machine screw.
The first photo shows the system in place – The height of
the block allows free movement of the Top-slide-retaining-
screw over the top. The block itself is set within 0.05mm – to
stop swarf getting in.
The second photo shows the cross-slide disconnected and slid away to the rear. The brass pad is enclosed in its own pocket and
free to move. The black socket head screw is threaded into the block and just pushes the pad against the side of the slide – locking
the slide does not deflect it - according to my dial gauge!
Note that I have used grub-screws to lock the top-slide, (two can be seen on the seen on the right).
In use I leave the Allen Key in its socket as the movement from free to locked is only a quarter turn.

We have £30 in gift vouchers courtesy of engineering suppliers Chester Machine Tools for each month’s ‘Top Tip’. Email your
workshop tips to neil.wyatt@mytimemedia.com marking them ‘Readers Tips’, and you could be a winner. Try to keep your tip to no more
than 400 words and a picture or drawing. Don’t forget to include your address! Every month I’ll chose a selection for publication and the
one chosen as Tip of the Month will win £30 in gift vouchers from Chester Machine Tools. Visit www.chesterhobbystore.com to plan how to
spend yours!
Please note that the first prize of Chester Vouchers is only available to UK readers. You can make multiple entries, but we reserve the right
not to award repeat prizes to the same person in order to encourage new entrants. All prizes are at the discretion of the Editor.

July 2020 21
 BERWYN STEAM FABRICATIONS

High Quality welding and fabrication of Steam Boilers

7¼ gauge upwards | 4 inch traction engines to fullsize
Narrow gauge steam Locomotives
Our workshop facilities offer:
Full CNC milling and Manual Turning/Milling, Slotting, Fabrications
in a wide range of materials. Restorations & rebuilds, including new builds.
6 inch Devonshire Agricultural and Road Locomotive boilers and fully
machined components including Cylinder Blocks,
wheel hub assemblies. Part built or fully built models to your requirements.
Currently building: • 6 inch Devonshire Agricultural and Road locomotive
• 7¼ Romulus Boilers • 7¼ Improved Design Tinkerbell Boiler
• 7¼ Thomas Two Boiler.
Please call or email Chris Pickard to discuss your requirements…
New Motion Nuts
for a Tom Senior M1
1

The old nuts when removed from the mill

Laurie Leonard restores has worked itself out of the bore. Use as will be explained later but it would
has stretched the thread which was appear that it had been removed before
accuracy to a well worn commensurate with the backlash. with the screw still bearing on it as
milling machine I had trouble removing the table feed evidenced by the massive score mark.
nut due to a seized Allen retaining screw I found the state of the cross feed

I
purchased a used, and as I
subsequently found, very used, 2
machine and utilised it on many
projects but was conscious of having to
allow for the backlash in all the motions
and the “jolts” as the knee suddenly
dropped when trying to lower the table.
As often happens the time came when
it was decided that enough was enough
and that something had to be done. The
machine was partially dismantled to
remove the motion nuts for examination.
These are shown in photo 1. From left to
right they are knee, table feed and cross
feed. The corresponding threads are:
• Knee - 1” 5 threads per inch (TPI) left
hand
• Table feed - 3/4” 5 TPI right hand
• Cross feed - 3/4” 5 TPI left hand
Not obvious from the photograph is
the state of wear on the thread in the
knee nut or the way that the thread The table nut in situ in the cross feed casting

24 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Tom Senior Nuts

3 4

Removing the seized grub screw The removed grub screw with surrounding metal of the casting

5 swarf. The solution chosen was to use

hollow bar of a smaller outside diameter
but a size which would still provide an
adequate land on the support casting as
will be shown later.
Rectangular section stock was priced
for the cross feed nut, but it was
expensive and the threaded portion was
only in a small area of the cross section.
It was decided to make the complex
shape out of mild steel and the threaded
portion out of cylindrical phosphor
bronze and fit this into to the mild steel
formed piece as an insert.
A length of hollow phosphor bronze
round bar was purchased for the knee
nut and a length of phosphor round bar
of a section that could be used for both
the cross feed insert and the table feed
nut. As described later a length of mild
steel section was purchased to produce
5 & 6 Removing the table feed nut from its housing in the cross feed casting a housing for the table feed nut.

nut even more interesting as it too had 6

been out before and somebody had
attempted to reduce the backlash by
slitting the nut and then opening the slit,
thus tightening the thread, using grub
screws inserted in the extra holes shown
adjacent to the main thread hole.
From the photo it can be seen
that the shapes of the nuts vary
considerably, and thought was given
to what phosphor bronze stock should
be purchased to make the new ones
bearing in mind material cost. Round bar
of suitable dimensions would cover the
knee and table feed nuts, but the cross
feed nut is an odd shape and appeared
to be made from a casting.
Turning the shape of the knee nut
from solid bar would create a lot of
expensive swarf and even by purchasing
suitable hollow stock the size of the
locating flange would still require a lot of
machining with the inherent volume of ›

July 2020 25
 Whilst the nuts were definitely past 7
their sell by dates it was hoped that
the feed screws, being made of harder
material, would not be that worn but
there was a plan to cater for some wear
if this proved to be needed.

The Table Feed

With the table removed from the cross
feed the table feed nut can be seen
located in part of the cross feed casting,
photo 2. It was concluded that it was a
plain bush/insert containing the thread
held in place with an Allen screw. All
attempts to undo the screw failed. The last
attempt with hex key socket ended with
the hardened hex key snapping off flush
with the surface of the casting. In a vain
attempt to remove it a high speed steel
drill was tried and as expected it would
not touch the broken piece of the hex key.
An alternative approach was needed.
The smallest diameter hole saw that I Machining the outside diameter of the new table feed nut
could find was purchased. This was still
rather large as my plan was to cut out a ensuring sufficient strength and space to but without the normal pilot drill in the
cylinder of the casting around the grub fit two new grub screws. The reason for middle, for obvious reasons. The cross
screw to remove it completely. Although two will be covered later. feed casting was positioned such that
the hole saw diameter was large, there The mill was reassembled, and the the saw would cut around the seized
was plenty of meat on the casting left hole saw mounted in the mill chuck screw, part cut shown in photo 3, and

Tapping the table feed nut

26 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Tom Senior Nuts

suspected. The majority of this play was

Fig.1
1 1/2 eliminated by sawing the new nut in
half! The two halves were then replaced
in the cross feed casting, the table feed
screw introduced and the two half nuts
Drill & tap screwed to lock against each other.
M5 (x4) Freedom of movement of the cross feed

5
.9
End elevation

Ø0
screw was tested after which the two
1.70

half nuts were secured with the newly

Position of O.D. of fitted grub screws, photo 9. Note that
1 1/8

thread in insert although the grub screws protrude

above the casting it was ensured that
they did not foul the underside of the
table when it was fitted. (The areas

0.5
worked on were given a good clean
before final assembly).
Ø0.625 Imp. Metric (app.)
1/4

3/4 19
0.55 14 The Cross Feed
0.950 24.1 The old cross feed nut was measured
1.70 43.18
0.625 15.9
and a drawing made of the new
arrangement, fig. 1.
The mild steel housing was bored
View on base as shown at 0.95 inches to take the
phosphor bronze insert. The drawing
Drill & tap shows the position of the outside of the
1 1/2

1/4” Whit.
thread in the insert. This was drawn
in to give confidence that it would be
strong enough at the minimum material
thickness areas. The four M5 grub
screws locate the insert in the housing.
Although an interesting shape,
Support For Bronze Insert machining the housing was relatively
Mat’l: Mild steel
straight forward. The as purchased billet
was machined to length in the lathe
supported in the four jaw chuck. Having
the knee raised slowly monitoring the diameter of the nut the piece of marked the centre of the bore for the
swarf from the cut for change in colour phosphor bronze stock was turned to insert the job was set up in the four jaw
indicating that the bronze nut had been the correct size, photo 7, cut off, faced, chuck, photo 10. The tailstock centre
reached. At this point the piece being remounted and then bored to the was used to set it as near as possible
removed was just still attached but was tapping size for the 3/4” ACME thread. and then the lathe Digital Read Out
easily removed with narrow nosed pliers, Remounted in the four jaw chuck, the (DRO) was used to confirm set up/final
photo 4. The old nut was withdrawn nut was then tapped, photo 8. adjust by advancing the turning tool to
using a piece of stud bar and suitable The new table nut was tried on its just make contact, photo 11, and noting
washers, nuts and spanners as shown in screw and as expected there was still the reading. It is accepted that personal
photos 5 & 6. play. This could be due to the tap cutting “feel” comes into this but on other jobs
Having confirmed the outside over size or wear on the screw as was where the use of a clock gauge can

9 10

The two halves of the new table feed nut in place fixed with
grub screws Setting up the cross feed nut housing ready for boring ›

July 2020 27
 11

Using the tool to check the position of the housing

easily be utilised this has confirmed the is the actual nut, was machined from housing tightened but some backlash
“as felt” setting as near as is required for a piece of the phosphor bronze stock appeared to be still present possibly due
most jobs. in a similar way as that for the table to wear on the screw. The composite
The spigot that locates the nut in feed. The completed housing and nut nut swivels on the spigot where it mates
the knee casting was a straightforward are shown in situ on the knee casting with the knee casting and alignment
piece of machining, photo 12. in photo 13. As in the table feed, the takes place when the machine is finally
Obviously, this has to be a good press nut (insert) was sawn in half and the rebuilt. The composite nut is clamped
fit into the knee to ensure no backlash two halves hardened against each other to the knee casting with a screw and
is introduced at this point. with the feed screw inserted to reduce washer into the spigot from below.
The insert, which in the new set up the backlash and the grub screws in the zTo be continued

12 13

Machining the cross feed nut housing spigot Cross feed nut in place in its housing trial mounted on the knee casting

28 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Centre Punch

From the Archives:

Home Made
Precision Optics
‘Bluey’, from MEW This article about a couple of handy optical
Issue 1, Summer 1990 aids appeared in the very first issue of Model
Engineers’ Workshop. Whilst they will be very

W
hen you are setting-up work useful if made to a reasonable standard of
or marking out, do you
accuracy, the term ‘precision’ may be a slight
sometimes sigh ‘oh for a pair
of eyes’? In this ingenious feature ‘Bluey’ exaggeration! The identity of the mysterious
comes to the rescue with an easily ‘Bluey’ was obscured in a mist of coolant,
made pair of aids for your workshop. however, anyone familiar with his inimitable style
You’ll find this optical centre-punch and will recognise that of founding Editor, Stan Bray!
centre-finder indispensable and they’ll
cost a fraction of what you’d pay for
commercial items. and then at that point tapped with a of a chair to make it shorter - we keep
Centre punching is a tricky business hammer. I am sure most of us follow going a bit more and a bit more until
although in theory there is nothing to it! this excellent advice only to find that the the whole thing becomes quite a mess.)
What should happen is that the centre punch has slipped out of position before The result is often an elongated punch
punch should be used at the junction of being hit and we then have to start mark more or less on the spot required
two scribed lines and should be drawn laying it an angle and trying to retrieve but because of its shape, a drill, and
along one until the intersection is felt the position. (It is rather like sawing legs particularly a small diameter one, is likely
to wander some way from where we
really want it to be.

The optical centre punch

I had seen advertised an optical centre
punch and at an exhibition actually
saw one. I must say that I was quite
impressed. However, buying things
that can be made is not my way and so
next day it was into the workshop and
a start was made on scheming out an
optical punch for myself. Although made
from odds and ends which happened to

…buying things that

can be made is not
my way and so next
day it was into the
workshop and a start
was made…
The completed optical centre-finder in the milling machine; in actual use it would be
brought closer to the work than shown in order to line it up accurately. ›

July 2020 29
be around my own workshop there is
nothing required that is not very easily
obtainable. There must be no
The actual punch is 3/8ths in. diameter
and, whilst my own was already around
in the workshop and was pressed into
slop on either the
use, there is nothing difficult about
making one from silver steel, hardening optical insert or the
and tempering it to a straw colour.
The actual sizes shown suited me, but punch, as this would
there is no need to comply with them if
convenient materials are to hand. The
point on the centre punch is shown
immediately lead to
as an included angle of sixty degrees,
which is the angle l prefer. Technically errors when in use.
speaking, the angle should really be
ninety degrees to allow the drill to seat
better in the punch mark, sixty degrees
being normally used for initial marking- parallel; there was no magnification and
out and the mark then opened out with not as much illumination as one might
a punch at ninety degrees. However, all have wished for, so, whilst visiting
this is a matter for the individual. the 1990 Model Engineer Exhibition, l
The body of the optical centre punch; this purchased a piece of 20mm diameter
The support body one is from aluminium but almost any acrylic rod from College Engineering
The support body was machined from material will do. Supplies. l then made a new insert with
a domed top which gave more light at
the base and also provided a degree of
magnification. Acrylic is not quite so
easy to machine as Perspex as there is a
tendency for it to string. However, both
are quite reasonable to work with.

Polishing
The insert must be highly polished and
this was done with Solvol Autosol which
can be obtained from most car accessory

Events of Summer 1990

June 13 – Demolition of the Berlin
Wall starts
July 1 – Re-unification of East
and West Germany
The magnifying lens for the tool. Made from acrylic, it is a simple turning exercise; shank August 2 – Iraq invades Kuwait,
must be a good sliding fit in the body and the large diameter rounded at the end to triggering the Gulf War.
provide magnification.

a piece of 1 inch diameter aluminium

but could just as easily be mild steel or
brass if these are more convenient. The
central hole should be bored or reamed
to a good fit as there must be no slop
on the punch when it is inserted. A
groove is machined in the end and
this accepts an ’O’ ring which stands
just proud of the actual body and so
prevents the thing from sliding around
whilst being lined up.

The insert
The original optical insert was made
from Perspex and actually machined
from a piece of sheet material, no other The centre punch. This, too, should be a sliding fit in the body; the ’O’ ring at the top has
being available. Also, originally it was no effect on the operation of the tool but makes it easier to handle.

30 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Centre Punch

The ends of the body and magnifier. The ’O’ ring recessed in the body prevents
accidental movement when adjustments are made. Black felt-` tip pen ink wiped over
the base of the magnifier picks out the cross-hairs.
The body with magnifier ready to be
shops. It is rubbed on with a cotton accuracy in the first place. There must be positioned over the work.
cloth and then buffed hard to give a no slop on either the optical insert or the
good finish. I should point out that it punch, as this would immediately lead to tool used to scribe the cross hairs is
is essential that the original machining errors when in use. Care must therefore absolutely on centre height.
must also be to a fine finish to prevent be taken to ensure that the point on
excessive polishing being required. I the punch is made accurately. If the The centre-finder
also polished the support body by the three-jaw chuck of the lathe is not one The centre punch proved a delight to
same method. Very fine marks (cross hundred percent accurate then set the use, making marking out both extremely
hairs) must be made across the bottom punch up in the four-jaw chuck. Failing quick and very accurate. Fired with
of the insert and these line up at the this, use a larger diameter piece of metal enthusiasm, I looked at a very expensive
place where the centre punch mark is than required and turn the parallel shank piece of equipment in the form of an
to be made. These can be done in the and the point in one setting. Part off the optical setting-up guide. We all know
lathe using a sharp pointed tool which excess larger diameter material and the the problems; some form of pointer or
is drawn across the face, the lathe then punch must be right. a wiggler is put in the milling machine
rotated through ninety degrees and the Similar precautions must be taken and brought to the work. Sometimes
operation repeated. with the insert and, in particular, care the setting can be done quite easily and
Of course, such an instrument relies on must be taken to ensure that the no real concentrated visual observation
is needed. On other occasions it is
impossible to get the light exactly
as required to see what one is up to,
and if the light shines on the point of
interest then it casts a shadow that
makes it impossible to see exactly

The centre punch

proved a delight to
use, making marking
out both extremely
quick and very
accurate.
A good view showing the inked cross-hairs. ›

July 2020 31
 optical insert from two pieces of Perspex these keep boxes of odds and ends.
which were to be joined. That caused The betting is that if you pay a visit to
problems as any adhesive would have one then you will come home with bits
upset the optics. I then hit on the idea of of PTFE and all sorts of things.
making it from a single piece of material. My thicker diameter material was
The material I used was thicker fly-cut with a very fine feed and this
than required and was very scratched produced an almost polished finish all
and so I had to machine all faces. This over, the only parts that really have to
will not be necessary if the correct be polished up to a mirror finish are
thickness of material is available. the two square ends and the twenty
Perspex is not hard to come by in sheet two and a half degrees chamfer. Again
form, a quick look in the Yellow Pages Solvol Autosol was used for the final
under plastics will, in most areas, polishing.
reveal several suppliers and most of

The centre-finder lens. In the prototype, this was cut from a sheet of Perspex and
polished. The angle enables the operator to look round the corner to the point of setting.
When the body is in the correct position
the magnifier is removed and replaced by
the centre punch.

what is happening. Usually in these

circumstances we resort to the use of
a magnifying glass, which invariably
is covered with dirt when needed, or
hides itself away in a corner of the
workshop (like on the marking-out
bench) and cannot be found until
other methods of setting up have been
resorted to!
But an optical centre finder sounded
quite formidable, and judging by
the price they must be made of pure
silver. So if I can make an optical
centre punch, why not an optical
centre finder? I picked up a piece of
aluminium of what I thought would
be a suitable diameter and started
experimenting. Originally I made the

So if I can make an
optical centre punch,
why not an optical The body of the centre-finder showing
how the slot has been milled out to
This frontal view of the body shows
the two angles required accurately to
accept the lens. position the lens. The angle value of the
centre finder? body itself is not critical, provided, of
course, that it is matched precisely by
that of the lens.

32 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Centre Punch

The body
The body was made, in my case, from 1
in. diameter aluminium, but brass or mild
steel would do equally well. The bar was
first machined as required in the lathe
and then the slot was milled out with a
3/8 inch diameter cutter in two separate
operations. The first operation was to
machine a slot 11/16 inch deep and 3/4
inch long. The work was then carefully
re-positioned in the vice and a second
slot machined at an angle of forty five
degrees so as to intersect the first slot at
3/4 inch from the end.

Assembly The assembled optical centre-finder; it is absolutely essential that the lens lines up
The two components were assembled centrally in the body if accuracy is not to be impaired.
ensuring that the protruding end
was parallel to the body. To do this, the adhesive has thoroughly set, any are located exactly at the point required.
temporarily fix it in place, stand the excess can be scraped off. Lock the table in position and raise the
assembly vertically on a surface plate The whole unit is now mounted spindle to remove the centre finder
or, if you do not have a surface plate, in the lathe ensuring it is absolutely which is replaced with the cutter. Do
on the drilling table or some similar centralised, and the cross hairs not, of course, alter the table position
object. Check right round the body to engraved in the same manner as with until cutting has started.
ensure that it is upright. When you are the centre punch. The tool proved remarkably easy to
quite sure it is right, the assembly can make and is one of the most useful little
be permanently secured with an epoxy Using the centre finder devices l have ever made. ■
adhesive ensuring that the adhesive To use the centre finder, mount it in the
does not touch-the polished twenty two spindle over the work. Adjust the table
and a half degrees angled face. When in either direction until the cross hairs

In our
Next Issue Coming up in issue 296
On Sale 14th August 2020
Content may be subject to change

Look out for our August issue, number 296:

A new major series with full plans Ray Griffin claims to have the Stuart Walker makes a jumbo grit
for Ian Strickland’s Rotary Table ‘perfect’ bench drill blasting cabinet

July 2020 33
DON'T MISS THIS GREAT ISSUE - SEE PAGE 40 FOR OUR LATEST SUBSCRIPTION OFFER
Machine of the future

The Murad Bormilathe

Geoff Harding shares his thoughts on that a lot of the structure already exists. Looking at some of
the lathes I can see that the bed on some of the lathes are a
where hobby machines could go next machined through item. The saddle, apron.lead-screw and
cross-slide are all in existence. All is required is a rise and fall

I
was re-reading my November issue of MEW and was head and tail-stock and a milling table to replace the tool post.
especially drawn to Antony Mount’s “Lathe of the Future” Once more DRO and CNC mechanisms are already available.
article. In his letter he mentions the Bormilathe by Murad. In Food for thought! ■
my workshop I am lucky to have one of these machines. It is
usually set up as a horizontal milling machine as I have a Mill/
Drill machine and a 9 inch Southbend lathe.
Antony’s letter got me thinking about what a model
engineers machine of the future would look like.
Based on the idea of the Bormilathe I think an update
would bring it into the 21st century. A list of my proposals
would be as follows.
1, Variable speed motor plus back gear.
2, Norton screw cutting gearbox.
3, DRO or full CNC capabilities.
4, Vernier engravings on head and tailstock to help centre
height adjustment accuracy.
5, Longer bed.
6, Perhaps a vertical head.
The Chester “Centurion” goes a long way to achieving my ideas
but without the rise and fall head and tail-stock it misses out on
being able to be used as a horizontal mill or boring machine.
The next question is just how viable such a machine would be?
Again, looking at the Chester Machine tool catalogue I see The Bormilathe set up as a horizontal milling machine.

34 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

Desktop Gear Hobbing
Toby Kinsey has 19
designed this fascinating
piece of gearmaking
equipment - Part 3

T
he two M3 screws of the holder
are tightened onto to the work,
the goal being to keep everything
concentric, photo 19. This worked but
was a bit cumbersome and meant there
was a section of the blank that couldn’t
be used, as it was needed to fit into the
holder.
The next solution was to use a
woodworking drive dog, photo 20.
These are used on wood lathes to hold
timber lengths between centers for
turning timber. They come in different
sizes and have a retracting centre that
keep the blanks concentric as they are
pushed onto the “teeth” of the dog by
the tailstock. They bite enough into the The first work holder in use to cut a gear.
plastics I use to allow no slip between
the headstock and blank and allow you This is one of a range of inexpensive This was fixed to the spindle motor.
to cut the entire length as a gear. This easily programmed microcontrollers. A Fixed at the edge of the disk was a
is a bit of a bodge in some ways, and microcontroller is a basic computer unit photomicrosensor. This is a small device
would struggle holding metal blanks, where you can control external devices that sends a beam of light across a small
but it is a quick method to mount and and read sensors with very little other gap to a receiver. As the disk rotates
unmount work. circuitry. See the later sections on Wiring between in the gap of the sensor,
and Software for more information. I the beam of light is constantly being
Electronics have had some experience of working interrupted, photo 22. The Arduino can
The next phase was the electronics. with Arduinos in my job, but I am in no read the signal generated and it can then
There is mains voltage involved in the way an expert but have found them do some simple calculations and send
electronic part of the project so if you relatively easy to use, and there is a signals to the stepper motor driving the
intend to make your own please be large amount of help and advice online headstock to drive it at the right speed.
aware of the dangers of mains voltages. to get you through any problems. The Arduino is also connected to a 16x2
I used an Arduino Nano, photo 21, In the original iteration of MEGS there character LCD screen and 4 buttons.
as the brains of the project, (ref. 7). was a disk with 100 slots cut into it. Using the buttons you can set the

20 21

Woodworking lathe dog. Arduino Nano.

36 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Gear Hobbing

22 23

The setup for measuring the speed of the cutter spindle. MEGS Set up for cutting 12 teeth.

number of teeth of the gear you wish 24

to cut, which is all displayed on the little
LCD screen, and set the stepper motor
running, photo 23.
The original Sieg drive motor
electronics, photo 24, which allowed
you to vary the speed of the motor, was
removed from the lathe and placed in
a metal electronics cabinet bought off
the Internet. I sprayed the cabinet black
after I received it. But due to the length
of time since then, and the many times
it has been pushed under a bench the
paint is a bit tatty now, photo 25. The
Arduino and screen and buttons were
placed into the door of the cabinet.
In the cabinet is also a transformer
to supply power to the stepper motor.
This is a 36 volt power supply with three
outputs. Where I purchased this from
originally is lost in the mists of time,
unfortunately. I have found reference

25
Original lathe motor and speed control electronics.

to a similar one but I haven’t used this hole. This would allow cold air to be
supplier so I cannot vouch for them, drawn from underneath the cabinet
(ref. 7) and a 240v to 5-volt dc “wall then expelled through the top. These
wart” transformer was de-cased and components were all fed mains voltage
mounted in the cabinet. This supplies via appropriately sized fuses, photo 27.
the requisite power to the Arduino. A Joining the other bits in the cabinet were
240v IEC 3 pin socket, commonly used two 4.2 amp stepper motor drivers. One
for kettles and the like, and a mains is to drive the headstock, and one is to
switch were also fitted, photo 26. As drive the lead screw, (ref. 9). They took
I wanted to make sure everything was the simple low current output pulse from
kept nice and cool a second hand PC fan the Arduino and translated it in into the
and grill, bought online, was fitted, after correct phasing of the coils to control the
cutting a hole in the top of the cabinet. stepper motors. The driver also has all
Another hole was cut in the bottom of sorts of fancy protections against over
The cabinet (could do with a respray!.) the cabinet, with mesh covering the current, over voltage and even incorrect ›

July 2020 37
wiring of the stepper motor, thus much 26
reducing the chances of something
going bang! The drivers have a row of
tiny switches, some are set to limit the
current supplied to the motor, photo 28,
ref. 9, in this case set to 4.2amps. The
switches also set how many steps per
revolution the motor did, in MEGS case it
was set to 400steps/rev.
I made up some 4way XLR cables,
which seem to by commonly used
to connect stepper motors to their
drivers, but they are normally used in
an audio and visual context, photo 29)
My idea was to use cables with plugs
and sockets so that control box and
lathe part of MEGS could be separated
for ease of moving and storage. The
cable was wired to stepper motor and
the connections contained in a small
potting box cable tied to the body of
the motor, photo 30, fig. 7. I was mildly
concerned that the motor electronics Cabinet mains IEC socket and cable and the illuminated mains switch.
might be a little noisy electrically and
also not very reliable, judging by the 27 By this time the lathe motor control was
comments I found online. Both proved behaving in a rather intermittent manner
to be the case. The Arduino worked itself and the speed control was very hit
fine until I started up the lathe motor, and miss. The turning the speed control
at which point it started misbehaving. would result in the motor not starting or
So, I think it was broadcasting a lot of suddenly starting up. But ploughing on
electromagnetic radiation, which was I fitted the XLR sockets into the cabinet,
causing all sorts of issues. The Arduino photo 32, ref. 10.
would lock up or receive all sorts of false I wired the sockets to the drivers
signals. I thought about trying to shield and connected everything together.
it but in the end, I decided to move it After writing a tester program and
to its own enclosure. Another change, downloading it to the Arduino I was able
another visit to the web, and a small die after some fettling get it functioning, but
cast project box was purchased and the only if I turned the spindle by hand. As
Arduino and screen where mounted in soon as I turned on the old lathe motor,
that instead, photo 31. things started to go awry. The idea was
A 5-pin DIN cable was made up that every time the disk on the motor
to carry the control signals from the broke the beam on the detector, it would
Arduino back to the cabinet. This cause an interrupt in the Arduino. An
allowed the Arduino to be kept some Fuses mounted mounted in the side of interrupt as its name suggests, would
distance from troublesome electronics. the cabinet. cause the Arduino to halt whatever it

28 29

DIP switches to control max motor current and number of steps

per revolution on the stepper motor driver. XLR 4-way stepper motor plug.

38 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Gear Hobbing

30 31

Potting box to hold the wiring connections on back of stepper motor. Die cast project box to hold Arduino.

is doing and run a small bit of code to 32

deal with or “service” the interrupt.
In this case it would add one to the
count used to keep track of how many
times the beam has been broken and,
by extension, how many revolutions or
part revolutions the spindle had made.
This method was used because it
is obviously important to maintain
the correct ratio between the gear
being cut and the gear hob cutter. In
an industrial machine these ratios are
maintained with a gear train, so unless
there is mechanical fault the ratio will
always be correct. But as I was trying
to do the same thing electronically, if
the spindle revolutions were not being
accurately counted, when the program
was calculating the number of steps
to send to the stepper motor it would
get it wrong, this could lead to slippage
and the ratio changing. This would
cause the teeth form becoming too
thin and sometimes, as I found out, the Sockets for stepper motor XLR plugs and DIN socket for connection to Arduino.
hob cutting the teeth out of existence.
Which goes without saying, wasn’t New Direction maximum speed you can reliably drive a
ideal. Using interrupts was meant to A while later, seeing it sat there stepper motor would be somewhat less
solve this issue by insuring every single covered in dust, I felt I should really then the speed the original motor could
one of the 100 slots on the disk was try and get it working. Then it cope with. There is also a maximum
counted. But when the lathe motor was occurred to me, if I swapped out the rate you can send pulses to the motor.
fired up the Arduino started missing lathe motor for a stepper motor a lot Exceed this rate and the motor won’t
counts of the slotted disk. I assumed of the problems would disappear. It have time to move between each pulse
that there still must be some sort of would also be very simple task for the and will stop rotating. Therefore, cutting
interference reaching the Arduino’s electronics, for if you were cutting a a gear would possibly take longer than
location. I tried all sorts of ideas to 10-tooth gear, step the spindle motor using the original motor. But that was
get it working reliably but to no avail. 10 steps and then the headstock motor something I thought I could live with.
It was all very frustrating and due to 1 step. No problems trying to measure
other projects I had to work on, MEGS revolutions, no troublesome motors
got parked under a bench. and unreliable drives.
The only downside was that the zTo be continued

July 2020 39
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 On the

Wire NEWS from the World of

Hobby Engineering
Coronavirus Update
This month it’s really quite difficult to give a status update on suppliers to the hobby. It does appear that mail order, via the
internet or telephone, is working pretty much as normal with only a few local issues around delayed delivery. Some of the
suppliers with public facing showrooms and counters are already opening with social distancing in place and from the 4th of
July it looks like all such outlets should be able to open if they wish. The best advice for the moment is to check websites, call
or email before travelling. Also try to use card or contactless payments instead of cash if you can.
Away from the shops, it’s clear that mass gatherings like engineering shows are still unlikely to be happening in the medium
term, but with small groups being allowed to meet outside, it may well be that some clubs can organise workparties or
outdoor steaming days with strictly limited numbers.
Also, it looks like good news for overseas readers, I’m hoping that this issue will see the resumption of your subscriptions as
international distribution is getting back on an even keel, although I’m afraid I can’t give a cast iron guarantee just yet.

On Robot Intelligent Screwdriver

I think it’s going to be along time, if ever, before we have
robots assembling our projects, but readers will be interested in
how industry approaches such tasks.
The new OnRobot Screwdriver can be deployed and
redeployed for different applications in minutes, with built-in
smart features—including precise torque and embedded axis
control. Its smart, complete-out-of-the-box Screwdriver that
allows manufacturers to automate a wide range of assembly
processes quickly, easily, and flexibly. This provides welcome
relief for manufacturers who are eager to automate repetitive,
unergonomic, and often inconsistent manual screwdriving
processes, but who struggle to integrate and program typical
piecemeal screwdriving systems.
Programming the OnRobot Screwdriver is as easy as
entering the appropriate screw length and torque value into
the user interface that is integrated into the teach pendant of
any leading robot. With precise torque control and embedded
axis, the OnRobot Screwdriver automatically calculates the
speed and force required for consistent, accurate screwdriving.
The Screwdriver can detect incorrect screw length, which
can help improve overall quality and reduce scrap. Screws
are retracted inside the tool and driven automatically once
the robot arm moves into position, which reduces robot arm
movement and additional programming.
The Screwdriver can handle a wide range of screw sizes
and lengths, from M1.6 to M6, and up to 50mm long. With
its simple programming and easily exchangeable bit system,
the Screwdriver can be quickly changed over to a different
screw size, length or product line in minutes, which minimizes
downtime and improves productivity.

42 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Hobby Engineering News

New Paints for Modellers

The Airbrush Company have announced some new additions to
the Lifecolour range, to complement their wide range of specialist
colours for subjects like railway and military models. The new
Lifecolour sets contain popular basic and primary colours in two
versatile sets. They allow you to blend limitless colours with ease.
Suitable for a wide range of applications. They are water soluble
acrylic colours for modelling and hobby uses. LifeColor is excellent
for paint brushing or airbrushing on plastic, resin, metal, vinyl,
wood, cloth and ceramic.
Find out more at www.airbrushes.com.

Machine Mart Fans and a new Sander

These great value robust drum fans are ideal for fast cooling in large workshops. The range produces an excellent amount of air
flow, up to 310m3 per minute, allowing large areas to be cooled quickly and efficiently, with three large fan sizes to choose from:
24”, 30” or a massive 36”!
All models include 2 handles and are mounted on large rubber wheels for easy transportation to wherever it is required. Main
features of this range include:
• Robust steel frame
• Steel guard for safe operation
• Large rubber wheels for easy movement
• 2 speed control
• Durable painted finish
Models in this range start from £142.80 Inc. VAT.

Machine Mart have also announced a new ‘multi-sander’ from Clarke. The CMS200 Orbital 3-in-1 multi sander is a versatile
sander with 3 interchangeable sanding pads, giving one tool for most sanding requirements. The sanding plates take sheet, delta
and disc abrasive sheets. More at www.machinemart.co.uk.

July 2020 43
 Dismantling a Line

From the Archives:

Dismantling a Jacobs
Type Chuck
Doug Cooper MEW
Issue 22, March/April 1994

M
any inexpensive modern chucks have pressed steel
bodies and dismantling them means having to make a
new body, but did you know that many older Jacobs-
type chucks can be taken apart? The method of assembly is
far from obvious making a full strip down for cleaning and
maintenance a non-starter. In 1994 Doug Cooper let MEW
readers into this little secret, which may help you to breathe
new life into some old, but good quality, chucks.
To remove the taper arbor from the chuck body, rotate the
open chuck in the lathe and drill through the rear of the body,
say 0.25 inch. Pass a punch through the hole, to the head of
the arbor and drive it out. New arbors can be obtained from
the usual tool merchants, but take the body, chuck tapers do
vary in size.
To disassemble the chuck for cleaning, make up a short
tube to clear the rear of the chuck body and a similar one
just large enough to clear the jaws. With the jaws nearly
closed apply opposite pressure to the two tubes. This will
force the gear ring off the body. (Some makes of chuck
may come apart in the opposite direction.) It may take
quite a hefty pressure to shift it! When the gear ring
parts company with the body you will find a split ring
inside - yes, it is made that way! Remove the split ring
and the three jaws can be slid out. Either clean them
individually or mark them so that they go back in the same
position. Some are numbered but others may not be, so take Clean and check the jaws for burrs on the
care. gripping surfaces – these can be carefully stoned off. Check
also for burrs on the nose of the chuck, where it may have
contacted the work at some time.
To reassemble, lightly oil and slide the jaws into the body.
Replace the split ring, with the jaws in the near closed position,
and push the gear ring onto the body. Using the larger tube,
press the gear ring back onto the chuck body. Make sure this
goes fully home or the key will not fit the gear ring.
Sometimes for light milling operations, it is necessary to
retain a Morse taper arbor in the machine mandrel with a
drawbolt. Although Jacobs chuck arbors look rather hard they
can be drilled and tapped for a drawbolt. First cut off the tang,
a ‘blue blade’ will do this easily and set the arbor up in the lathe
to run truly. On my Myford I push the ‘chuck’ end of the arbor
into the Myford mandrel and grip the middle of the arbor in
the three jaw; not ideal, but it seems to hold it well enough to
drill the tapping hole: 3/8 inch BSW was used for No.2 Morse
tapers, but this may have changed since metrication. If being
used for milling the chuck must be made captive to the arbor.
Perhaps using a screw into the arbor through the hole in chuck
as made in 2 above. ■

44 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Exclusive Interview
From the Archives: Cherry Hill interview - Part 2

Photo 21: A simple buffing and polishing Photo 22: Some items of the rear cultivator drive Photo 23: Press tools and riveting tools
spindle is a vital tool when imparting the of the 1863 Blackburn engine, showing how some for the chain components. (JL)
high finish which Cherry achieves. (JL) of the chain components are developed. (JL)

Photo 24: The small size of Cherry’s

models requires the manufacture of
a significant number of special tools,
many of them being special spanners
such as this, each being hardened. (JL)
Photo 26: The Pillar Tool is fully equipped with
the accessories described by GHT. (CH)

complete with traditional drawing board,

photo 3 on which General Arrangement and
component detail drawings are worked up
from the often meagre information which can
be gleaned about the prototype. Some of the
Photo 25: The Universal Pillar Tool to the George drawings are created at full model size, photo 4
Thomas design – one of the first made. (CH) but Cherry prefers to work at ten times full size
for most as, at this scale, she finds that she can
assess clearances more accurately.

“All Cherry’s models

are capable of
being operated”
Photo 27: The UPT
set up in ‘light’ One of the workshop rooms is equipped
staking mode i.e. mainly as a machine shop, photo 5 while the
with the ‘anvil’ set other is where most of the hand work and
in the arm, rather fitting takes place, photos 6 and 7. As
than in the base. mentioned previously, pride of place in the
(For heavier riveting
machine shop is still occupied by the Pittler
and staking, a
set-up similar to lathe, photos 8, 9 and 10 but this is augmented
that shown in photo by the latest in a succession of Myfords, this
28 is used.) (CH) being the Connoisseur version, photos 11
and 12. The largest milling machine in the
workshop is a Myford VMC, photo 13 which is
Photo 20: Cherry’s capable of dealing with the heaviest work that
other lathe for small Cherry is likely to undertake. An addition to the
work is a Cowells 90 of
VMC is an inverter drive which allows control of
1.75 in. centre height, Photo 28: Cherry has produced a simpler
a model which is still
motor speed, a particularly welcome feature,
version of the top arm for use with the says Cherry, as this obviates the need for
in production. (JL) tools shown in photo 29. (CH)
V

frequent changes of drive belt position – not ›

July 2020 45
the easiest of exercises on this tall machine. Sitting opposite the Centec is another bit of
Alongside the VMC is a bench mounted history, a simple sensitive drill, photo 17 which
Centec 2A horizontal/vertical miller which was a companion of the Pittler lathe in the
Cherry says that she finds particularly useful original workshop. The drilling machine is still
because, in some circumstances, the horizontal in use, but the heavier work is now handled by
arbor can be used with the vertical head still in some more modern companions, a Startrite
place. This proved to be the case recently when Mercury Mk II, a Meddings and a small Toyo,
cutting the teeth on some lengths of rack for the latter two being in the other room, as can
be seen in photos 6 and 7. The Meddings is
“The heavier work best suited to drilling smaller holes due to its
high speed.
is now handled by An additional milling machine has more
recently been installed, this being the Photo 29: The tools of various diameters are
located directly in the adapters which are
some more modern Wabeco F1210E which can be seen on the
extreme right hand edge of photo 5. This plugged into the special top arm. (CH)

companions” is equipped with digital scales on all three

axes, which have currently still to be set
the Blackburn 1863 engine. The Centec, up to Cherry’s satisfaction.
though, does have one annoying habit – that As has been mentioned, the second room of
of leaking oil from the vertical head when not the workshop complex is the focus for bench
in use – hence the plastic ‘drip container’ seen work, although it does house some smaller
in photo 5. An addition to the Centec which machines such as the Toyo and Meddings drills
has proved useful is the fitting of dial gauges already described and a couple of small lathes.
to indicate movement on the X and Z axes, These are a 2in. centre height IME instrument
photos 14, 15 and 16. lathe, photos 18 and 19 and a 1¾in. centre

Photo 30: The Centec ‘A’ milling machine set

up for gashing a worm wheel. (CH)

Photo 31: The dividing head on the Centec equipped Photo 32: The range of home-made dividing plates
with one of the dividing plates made by Cherry. (CH) available for use on the dividing head. (CH)

Photo 33: The gashing of a worm Photo 34: Machining a worm gear
wheel nears completion. (CH) on the IME 100 lathe. (CH)

46 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Exclusive Interview

July 2020 47
 of Cherry’s own design to increase its
versatility, photos 28 and 29. George Thomas
visited Cherry soon after the completion of the
Pillar Tool, commenting that it was the first he
had seen following the constructional series
published in Model Engineer.
Although there were no major machining
operations in progress at the time we visited,
Cherry has supplied some photos of her own,
taken at the various stages of machining a
worm gear and wheel pair for the new model,
photos 30 to 40. The photos of the internal
Photo 41: More gear cutting, but this time the internal gear which gear and the associated tooling, photos 41 and
can be seen on the inner periphery of the drum in photo 2. (CH) 42 also illustrate the amount of effort which
goes into ensuring that each component is not
only correct in appearance, but fully functional.
On occasions, however, all does not go
according to plan and, despite all the careful
calculation and detail drawing, finished
components do not always come up to the
high standard which Cherry sets. She has no
hesitation in rejecting a component if she is
not satisfied so, despite many hours of work, a
cylinder fabrication, photo 43 was discarded
because the bosses for one set of cylinder cover
studs appeared to be too long. It did have a use
however, because its similarity to the
component on the 1857 engine made it useful
“supporting evidence” for a competition entry.
It will be a little while yet before the
components of the later 1863 Robert Blackburn
engine will be ready for painting and final
assembly, so I include a photo, photo 44 of the
motion work of the Gilletts and Allat engine
which I took on an earlier visit. This clearly
illustrates the high standard of finish and detail
Photo 42: The tools used to cut the internal gear seen in that Cherry is able to achieve.
photo 41 with the ‘tools’ used to make the tools. (CH) It was a great pleasure and privilege to be
able to visit this charming and talented lady
and to admire her workshop and the work
which emanates from it. The lesson to be
learned is that it is not necessary to own a
facility packed with hugely expensive and
complex state-of –the- art machinery to be
able to produce top class work. Over the years,
descriptions of many award-winning models
have made reference to the modestly equipped
workshops in which they have been produced.
The same still applies today. We look forward
to seeing the next masterpiece from Cherry. Q

Photo 43: The rejected cylinder fabrication, of

which the lower cylinder cover stud bosses
were just too long, was used as ‘supporting
Photo 44: The excellent detail and fine finish on the motion work of the Gilletts evidence’ when the 1857 Blackburn engine
and Allet engine, which also won the Duke of Edinburgh Trophy, in 2004, after was entered for the ‘Duke of Edinburgh
having won a Gold Medal and the Bradbury Winter Memorial Trophy in 2003. (GS) Trophy’ competition, which it won. (JL)

48 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

The Rawson Divider
Adrian Rawson details his ‘intelligent’ dividing device

W
hy did I embark on this 1
project? Well, I had a couple
simple questions.
Why does dividing on the lathe
involve perforated wheels, worms,
detents and sector arms, and why does
the equipment required command such
a high price?
I read the chapter on dividing in
the Myford Series 7 Manual and
was overwhelmed by the apparent
complexity of setting up a simple circular
division, and was left wondering how
one might manage to take a break, mid
circle, without losing one’s place.
I had to attempt a computerised
version of the traditional setup, photo 1.
Let the computer remember where it’s
up to and do the counting. The Rawson Divider
I stuck some numbers in a spreadsheet
and deduced, that using a 200 steps/ couldn’t make it work. The worm drive be small enough to fit neatly on the
revolution stepper motor with a 125:1 was too fine for me to engineer, and my cross/vertical slides and the shaft had to
reduction, that it would be possible to lack of workshop experience conspired be at Myford centre height.
divide a circle by any number of divisions against me when it came to making Research showed me that the typical
from 1 to 360 with a maximum error things that ran concentrically, and there Myford divider has a 60 tooth worm, so I
of 25 arc seconds. But that’s history, I were other constraints. The device must plugged that option into my calculations

2 3

The motor is a neat fit in the case. Setting the tool to cut the worm gear.

50 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Brainy Divider

Fig.1
The device needed
some way of
locking the shaft
and powering off
the motor during
machining activities.

Case design photo 3. The photo shows an aluminium

worm which was hobbed with a tap.
Although not useable it came in handy
and got a maximum error of circa 50 proud of the body to act as a bearing as a spacer and gave guidance for
arc seconds. This was only half as good surface for the Myford nose. The rear setting a small angle on the worm being
as the original plan, but I decided the bush was sunk in to allow for a thrust cut. The divider I used was a simple
resulting 0.013 of a degree error would washer to run flush with the outside affair that stepped around a 60 toothed
be hard to detect given all the other rear of the case. gearwheel but gave good results, photo
system tolerances. It’s important to say The Oilite bushes should have been 4. Then the tool was copied to screw-cut
at this point that the software keeps an a press fit but they ended up a nice fit the 18TPI worm from 0.33 inch diameter
eye on errors to avoid any accumulation. pressed in with super glue. steel. This was derived from the total
The other problem I had encountered Having tried hobbing a worm gear out space + 0.040 inches to give a working
with earlier attempts was the power of aluminium with a brass worm drive, depth for the worm teeth.
in the motor. I tried two lesser motors Previous worm attempts had failed
before choosing a Nema 17 with 1.6 4 to run concentrically on the motor
amp windings. And as luck would have shaft. They had a bit of wobble, and
it, its dimensions are such as to allow considering that the worm gear was
the worm gear to just fit within centre so fine, this mattered a lot. I thought
height with a case made from 1⁄2 inch maybe this was caused by machining
steel plate. everything in the chuck. The hole
The other constraint I set myself was drilled through the middle for the 5mm
the shaft size. It had to accommodate motor shaft wasn’t true. This time I
an MT2 taper. I ended up using a 22mm took the drilled blank out of the chuck
Oilite bush for the front bearing and and turned it between centres. This did
a 3⁄4” Oilite bush for the rear. This left the trick. The worm shown, photo 5,
ample metal to accommodate the taper. doesn’t look that crisp but it meshes
Using 1/2 inch steel for the case meant well with the gear.
that the external dimensions had to be The device needed some way of
100mm wide, 70mm deep (front to back) locking the shaft and powering off the
and 95mm high. The 70mm depth left motor during machining activities. The
~2mm clearance for the 42mm motor motor windings can get quite warm if
with the space above it perfect for an
overarm, photo 2. A lot of energy was
put into CAD drawings making sure that
5
everything would fit before cutting any
metal, fig. 1. Spindle with finished gear.
Having attempted a previous build
with 10mm steel sections bolted it became obvious that I had to
together I decided on a more robust get more serious. I acquired a
welded construction for this version. piece of phosphor-bronze bar for
The welded body was bored, from the worm gear and made a tool
the front face, right through, at centre to cut it. Calculations showed
height and 28mm in from the right side. that the blank had to be 1.1145
The holes were then opened out to inch diameter to carry 60 teeth
accommodate the front and back bushes at 18 TPI (teeth per inch). I set
and counter bored to accept the bush my right-angled tool in a 4-jaw
flanges. The front flange was left slightly chuck and turned it by hand, Stepper with worm. ›

July 2020 51
 6 7 could be made from steel. I originally
made the lock ‘pecker’ from plastic but
it was difficult to mount it rigidly to the
locking screw, so I made a copy in steel.
The case sides are aluminium sheet
screwed to the frame, leaving spanner
access for the T-bolt on one side.
The brains of the device is a Raspberry
Pi zero computer programmed in Python
and achieves the following:
• Calculates steps required for any
division from 1 to 999 with step
correction for accumulated errors.
• Enables working clockwise or
anticlockwise.
• Allows for any division to be reversed
to the previous position.
• Configurable backlash correction.
• Motor nudging facility for initial
positioning.
• Motor power off when locked in
position for machining.
Locking arrangement. Shaft retention washer. I’ve totted up the total materials cost,
and its around £150. ‘Myford’ dividers
8mm stud that could raise the motor. cost in the region of £500, but they do
Unfortunately, it caused the rear of the look the business.
I also found that motor to rise so I made a plastic wedge to So far, I’ve made a couple of Youtube
hold the rear of the motor down against videos for those who want additional
shimming the rear the steel angle above it. This enabled the information and to see the divider
gear mesh to be finely adjusted before under test.
thrust washer to give tightening the motor bracket screws, also
tapped into the base.
https://youtu.be/g3SYf010tW8
https://youtu.be/_Tvj-cLd6S8
the shaft slight end I also found that shimming the rear
thrust washer to give the shaft slight
I consider this project a success, in
that it seems both robust (with overarm
float helped everything end float helped everything run more
freely.
attached it weighs just shy of 4 kg) and
accurate. To achieve perfection, I would
like to improve access to the T-bolt
run more freely. So what else? mount and maybe beef-up the locking
Well there are a few plastic components mechanism. However, I hope that this
required which require 3D printing, fig. 2. article encourages someone else to
The top plate which holds the have a go.
left powered while stationary. Also, I computer and screen is the major piece I’m looking into putting kits together
was worried that any excessive torque of work. There is a bracket and wedge for the software and electronics if
on the shaft might strip the worm, so that holds the motor in place, but these enough interest is shown. ■
I welded a bar onto the frame, parallel
to the shaft at centre height. This was
Fig.2
tapped 5mm and slotted to take a lock
detection micro-switch. The front Oilite
bush was drilled through in line with the
5mm hole and a 5 x 25mm bolt screwed
through the bar to play on the shaft as
a brake. I then fashioned a steel ‘pecker’
with 5mm thread and 3mm grub screw
to activate the switch when the shaft
was locked, photo 6. The bar was also
drilled and counterbored to take the
2mm micro-switch bolts.
To hold the shaft in place I made a
flanged washer that bolted onto the
shaft and ran on the flange of the Oilite
bush, photo 7.
On assembly the worm only just
meshed with the gear so I drilled and Designs for 3D
tapped a hole through the base of printed parts
the case and made a screwed brass

52 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Geometer’s Guide Drills

From the Archives:

July 2020 53
Starrett-Type Clamps
for Model Engineers
Stewart Hart recreates an historic tool that’s still useful today - Part 2

10 11

Skimming off distortion. Milling ends to size.

12 13

Drill and tap m8, note use of end vice stop. Part off jaw and face to length.

W
ith both bodies clamped the 6.5mm hole. If you drill the 6.5 hole accurate depth of 9.5, photo 15. Getting
together and using a nice first when you come to drill for tapping, the 9.5 depth accurate is important as
sharp end mill take a light you will risk the drill breaking as it enters you want the clamp load to be taken on
skim off the base and the top to get the 6.5mm hole, I found this out the hard the nose of the bolt.
rid of any distortion, photo 10, before way. Hack saw or part the jaws off and To simplify manufacture of the bolt
bringing the cut out to final size. Stand face them to length using a self-centring I fabricated it using a M8 coach bolt;
them on end taking care that you have or independent four jaw chuck, photo dies would run out threading a bolt
them square bring both ends to size, 13, and mark out the position of the M3 this length and screw cutting is an
photo 11. Before separating the bodies hole. As you will be making a number of unnecessary complication. Start by
mark one end so that when you drill jaws it is worth setting it up with a vice knurling a length of bar, photo 16,
and tap M8 from the same end they will stop this way you will save on set up enough to make both handles, then drill
match perfectly, photo 12. time, photo 14. With the M3 hole drilled and tap M8 and part each handle off.
It is better to drill and tap the M3 hole and tapped set back up in the four jaw, Grip the bolt on the threads in the lathe
in the jaws for the keep before you drill and centre drill and drill 6.5mm to an chuck:- you will be gripping on a good

54 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Model Engineers’ Clamps

14 15

Setup using vice stop for drilling and tapping. Accurately drill to depth.

16
Hack saw or part
the jaws off and
face them to length
using a self-centring
or independant four
jaw chuck.

length of threads spreading the load so

it’s unlikely you will damage them. Turn
the head of the bolt down, photo 17,
and put in the groove using a parting
tool, ensuring that you get the length
correct so that the load will be taken on
the nose of the bolt. Screw the bolt into
the handle leaving it 2 or 3 mm short of
protruding then simply fill this void up Knurling handle.

17 18

Head of bolt turned down. Weld handle to bolt. ›

July 2020 55
 19 20

Making the keep from an M3 cap screw.

21

Clamps fixed to an angle plate in different orientations. Completed Parts.

with weld, photo 18, clean and face up. shows the finished vice. piece of equipment such as an angle
Alternatively screw the bolt all the way From the photographs of the used plate or a lathe face plate, photo 21.
in and silver solder, or just rivet the end clamps for sale on the internet you Another adaptation is to mill a vee in the
of the thread over to secure it in place. could see that many of them had jaws for gripping round bars, photo 22,
The keep is made from an M3 cap been adapted for specific uses. One this led me to realise that the jaws being
screw, photo 19, simply turn down to adaptation was to drill and countersink square that this vee could be orientated
2mm diameter and cut a screwdriver slot through the base of the clamp this horizontal or vertically, photo 23. The
with a junior hacksaw. Photograph 20 would allow it to be fixed to another easiest way to machine the vee in the

22 23

Milling a vee across the jaws with an end mill. Vee being used vertically and horizontally.

56 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Model Engineers’ Clamps

24

Round bar being used to eliminate jaw tilt.

jaws is to mount them as a pair in a vee this to clamp down on the work, photo
block and mill with an end mill. The jaws 24, the point contact will eliminate this
being easy to make, it would be time tipping effect. Likewise, if you do the
well spent making a few spare sets that same thing but with the vee vertically
you could adapt for specific uses. you can grip tapered parts.
One of the drawbacks with this type As you can see from these few
of clamp is that the floating jaw will tend examples this type of clamp will have a
to tip, putting the work out of square. multitude of different uses, photo 25,
It can alleviate this effect if you insert and will be a valuable addition to any
a piece of round bar in the vee and use workshop. ■

25

Clamps being used as a matching pair.

July 2020 57
Scribe a line
YOUR CHANCE TO TALK TO US!
Drop us a line and share your advice, questions and opinions with other readers.

Rotary Broaching Wide Guides

Dear Neil, I am happy that I was a kind of a trigger for M. Dear Neil, a friend of mine here in New Zealand receives the
Malcolm Leafe (MEW 294), page 48. “ Model Engineers Workshop “ and passes them onto me
My hole of 5 mm is square, because I made the cutter not to read. I noticed in last November’s issue ( 287 ) a article on
off-hand, but using the grinding rest of another great man: converting Myford 7 inch lathes to wide guiding of the saddle .
Harold Hall, in conjunction with a Stevenson’s Collet Block ER As my super 7 is a narrow guide this greatly interests me as
25 from Arc Euro Trade (the square one). my lathe had a bit of slack that I could no adjust out.
Thank you for your magazine, helping me so much in difficult I went ahead and converted mine to wide guide using a piece
times. of 1/16 x 1/2 gauge plate 71/2 ins long and securing it onto the
rear strip of the saddle, I had to machine 0.047 of the saddle
Bernard Zaegel, The Netherlands. and secured the gauge plate with two 3/16 dowels slightly
under the plate face surface. This was only completed 4 days
ago and then same day I received issue 288 and lo and behold
another article ( In Scribe a line ) on the same subject.
As this modification really takes care of any slackness with
the bed to saddle fitment and makes a very usable lathe and a
breeze to use, I can not see why Myford used the short narrow
guide in the first place.

Ally Stephens, New Zealand.

Using Tough PLA

Dear Neil, I was interested to read Stub Mandrel’s musings
about PLA Plus, the supposedly stronger version of the
standard PLA for 3D printing.
I print with an Ultimaker 3, and after making my first parts
with conventional PLA have changed to Ultimaker’s Tough
PLA. This is definitely much stiffer, prints with similar settings
and produces parts with an equally good finish on the default
My Free Ad settings. Like PLA it can be glued with Plastic Weld liquid
(Methyl Chloride) or super glue, the latter having the benefit of
Dear Neil, you may remember my ad. last September when I more working time and an ability to fill gaps and leave a fillet.
asked for unfinished projects that I could complete, (bored 90 Unfortunately, all Ultimaker filaments are 2.85 mm in
year old/traction engines). I thought you might like to know diameter which means that their Tough PLA cannot be used
the outcome. I had seven or eight replies from all over, three of on other machines with 1.75 mm feeders. However, it may be
which brought results. The ones that didn’t were for traction possible to use the much cheaper PLA Plus on an Ultimaker,
engines beyond my budget. A pair of Stuart models were fun although I have yet to try this.
but familiar. The second was much more challenging, Anthony I use printed parts in the construction of model aircraft –
Mount’s model of James Booth’s Rectilinear engine which a mainly for ribs and fuselage bulkheads, spars and longerons
model engineer had completed but given up trying to make being carbon fibre pultrusions. Whenever my planes crash it is
run. It was, in1843, an intriguing concept but impractical in the PLA parts which fracture, even though they appear to be
reality. It gave me some three months of frustration and a bit strong enough when tested by hand. This experience suggests
of redesigning before I finally got it to run and is now back that PLA behaves as a ‘Plastic Elastic Brittle Solid’, similar to
with its owner. I have to admit I am pleased with that one. Blu Tac in terms of ductile behaviour. When flexed very slowly
The third is a set of castings, unstarted, of a 2” scale model of it eventually creeps to hold a deformed shape. When flexed
a Ransomes traction engine, arriving tomorrow. That should more quickly it springs back elastically. Finally, when flexed
stifle my boredom for a year or two. Thankyou for the ad. very rapidly to the same angle it snaps, which explains the
entry. breakage when the ground moves up to meet my aircraft!

Peter Hamm, Diss Mark Noel, Isle of Man

58 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Readers’ Letters

Feedback on Issue 293

Dear Neil, Just to say how pleased I am to read the first part of unsaid, and dependant on a reader’s assumed knowledge and
the article on Cherry Hill! I have been fortunate on a couple of ability.
occasions to enjoy her company at lunch at the annual Bristol
Society of Model and Experimental Engineers exhibition at Davina Elaine Hockin, Portishead
Thornbury when I was editor of the Society’s quarterly journal
“Our Cog”. I am glad that many readers appreciate the interview with
Ever since I first saw some of her amazing work, I have simply Cherry Hill, which concludes in this issue.
been in awe of her ability and accomplishments. I think it’s fair to say (although I have some prior
They are so amazing as to make one take tiddlywinks and experience of Arduinos) that Duncan’s diagram does make
give up all hope of model engineering in the face of such work. sense if you have the modules ‘in your hand’. It would
It’s not even as though any of her items were popular well help if he had made it clear that Load, CLK and Data In are
known in their day. With few exceptions, all have been rare also connections on the display module and separated the
machines, requiring considerable research before launching into display module connections from the sensor connections..
construction, and the results defy anything but utter admiration. These days electronics seems to be mostly about wiring
I look forward to the next part of this fascinating article, up various pins on modules with obscure (and often non-
on the life and work of an amazing and unparalleled “model matching) names then adding a power supply.
engineer”! I personally prefer proper wiring diagrams, but the
In earlier years, I have done quite a bit of electronic circuit standard for Arduino projects seems to be so-called
making and assembling. ‘Fritizing Diagrams’ (see the picture, opensourced from the
That is now long in the past. The article on an Arduino tacho Arduino website). To me these look a bit ‘noddy’ but they
looks interesting, but would appear to be very incomplete! are fairly easy for people with no electronic knowledge to
There IS no “schematic”! No wiring diagram, no layout. The follow. Perhaps I should encourage contributors to create
relation ship of the connections diagram to the photo of a diagrams like this if a proper circuit diagram, is not suitable?
mounted board, with no view of the track side is not in the least Neil.
helpful. Nor is the comment that one can get “code” only from
a forum website, with the information that then one has to
“paste” it into something, somewhere!
Altogether, far too much is assumed and left out from the
article.
As a “practical” project, it lacks almost totally any information
in what should be a complete article, and not just a few vague
hints on as to go about it all!
Even with my old, and now very out of date knowledge, this
project is impossible, so for one with even less, quite out of the
question.
For a “practical” magazine, this isn’t “on”, for leaving so much

Mystery Tool from December’s MEW

Richard Cains strange old tool shown in Scribe a line for the
December edition of MEW, is, as Neil says, a general catch
all tool, but not a blasting tool, despite being found with
black powder and safety fuse. Here are shown the tools for
the job. I have been involved in tunnelling in many places
all my life. The crimping pliers are designed for cutting fuse
to length and the crimping of detonators and bean-hole
connectors. The copper end to one handle is for making a
hole in Gelignite cartridges and insertion of a detonator,
though I prefer the brass pricker shown. All are standard
South African issue on the 1970’s, where I was blasting
tunnels, shafts, stopes, etc., 11,700 feet down in the gold
mines. At that depth, square tunnels over time became
round tunnels, and the excavation of the gold seam closed
up completely despite massive amounts of timber. Such was
the intrinsic pressure in the rock – like at the bottom of the
ocean. Rock temperature is 160 degrees F., humidity 100%,
and only Africaans and Fanakalo are the spoken languages. I came back in 1973 to blast the new tunnel for the Ffestiniog Railway,
a breeze in both senses, and have done more tunnelling since with these tools.

Bob Le Marchant, Paignton.

July 2020 59
 1

Readers’ Workshops -

Andrew Johnston
By a combination of lucky finds and a shrewd
eye for used equipment Andrew Johnston has a
workshop capable of tackling a wide range of jobs

W
hile at secondary school I had At school I had started dabbling in
a small workshop in the end electronics and this continued at
of my parents’ garage with university and beyond. I also took up
an old Logan lathe and an unknown gliding and power flying. During this
make of pillar drill. With help from the period, I had access to a lathe and milling
local model engineering club I started machine for small jobs at my flying club.
building ‘Mona’, a 0-6-2 tank locomotive Nearly 20 years ago I moved out of a city
by LBSC. The machines were sold when flat and into a bungalow in a village, one
I left school and went to university. reason being to get the space to set up a

Centre Lathe

proper workshop in a double garage.

In retrospect had I realised how much
machinery I would acquire I would have
laid the garage out differently, with the
machine tools around the outside and
benches in the middle. My workshop is
untidy; as well as model engineering, I
use it for prototyping and production
runs to aid my engineering design work.
Starting in the far corner, photo 1, is
my centre lathe, a Harrison M300. As
shown, it is set up with a hydraulic copy
Vertical Mill unit as my current task is screwcutting

3 4

CNC Mill and Guillotine Cylindrical Grinder and Horizontal Mill

60 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 Readers’ Workshops

Repetition Lathe

scrap used mainly for jigs and fixtures.

The sloping shelf above the lathe is also
made from offcuts and salvaged wood. It
carries drill chucks and centres, and odd
size drills bought cheaply on the internet
for opening up holes prior to boring.
Moving left photo 3, is a 4-axis CNC
mill and in the background a 4ft by
1/8” power guillotine. The CNC mill was
imported new from the US, but the
guillotine was secondhand from the
internet. The CNC mill gives me freedom
in designing parts and removes the
tedium of making multiple parts, such as
wheel spokes. I can also design and make
parts that cannot be made on manual
machines, such as bevel gears. Above the
tapered threads. Top centre is a 3-phase mill, a varispeed Bridgeport. This, garage door there are some red brackets,
meter and distribution board and to and the Harrison, were the first two fixed to an RSJ, which hold my stock of
the right of that is the single-phase machines I bought, secondhand from small sections. To reduce unit cost I often
domestic consumer unit, recently a dealer. To the left, by the lathe, is a buy material in standard 10-foot lengths.
updated to a metal box and RCDs. I home-made steel trolley with a capstan In the background, to the left, is a Brown
made the decision to install 3-phase unit for the lathe and on the lower and Sharpe surface grinder.
when I bought the lathe and vertical shelves lathe chucks and a 12” faceplate. Towards the back of the garage,
mill. Most of my machinery is ex- The 18” faceplate can be seen on the photo 4, are a Myford cylindrical grinder
industrial and hence 3-phase. The cost floor at the end of the lathe. To the bought from a dealer on the internet
was justified partly by the fact that the right are shelves made from MDF and and an Adcock and Shipley 2E universal
property originally had a 60A supply and salvaged wood which hold accessories horizontal mill bought direct from a
an outdated fuse box using fuse wire for the vertical mill as well as oils and dealer for the princely sum of £175. The
rather than cartridge fuses. greases for the workshop. Underneath horizontal mill was an impulse buy, but
Moving right, photo 2, is the vertical the shelves are aluminum offcuts and has proved to be useful, especially for

6 7

Bench and Box & Pan Folder Lathe, Mill, Threading and Drilling Tools ›

July 2020 61
 8 to me by a local acoustics and vibration Inevitably the workshop has spread
consultancy. Partly visible on the shelves into the bungalow. In the dining
behind the arbor press are dozens of room are more taps and dies, many
milling cutters and slitting saws for sets of Coventry diehead chasers
the horizontal mill, all secondhand, and all my measurement equipment
mostly from the internet. To the right including assorted imperial and metric
is a flypress, bought from the internet, micrometers and gauge blocks, all
sitting on a large metal plate after the secondhand, mostly from the internet,
bench top broke when I was using the photo 8. At the end of the sitting room
flypress to close 3⁄16” steel rivets. By the is a secondhand Pultra lathe, photo
door is a first aid kit and below that an 9, and a new VFD and motor awaiting
eyewash kit, just in case. At the top of assembly and my 3D printer. Spread
the picture are red hooks attached to the around the workshop and bungalow, but
rafters that hold my stock of aluminum not pictured, are horizontal and vertical
extrusions. The plastic bins to the right bandsaws, bending rolls and oxy-
were mostly rescued from skips. acetylene and TIG welding sets.
Looking parallel to the centre lathe My main model engineering project is
and vertical mill, but on the left of the a 4” scale Burrell SCC engine, photo 10.
garage, photo 6, is another home I’m building two engines, which is why
made bench, with a secondhand electric there is a second set of wheels to the
furnace and almost hidden behind that right. A lot of other parts for the engines
Tooling and Measurement Equipment an old US pillar drill acquired from the are awaiting assembly, photo 11.

9 10

Pultra Lathe and 3D Printer Burrell SCC Traction Engine

gear cutting. It has a 5hp motor and flying club, almost certainly lend-lease. Naturally, there are more machine
geared spindle and can really shift metal. On the right is a secondhand 50” box tools I’d like, but I’ve pretty much run out
Behind the cylindrical grinder is a home- and pan folder, from the internet, and of space. However, there is always more
made bench that holds a secondhand by the garage door an 18” shaper, which tooling that will be needed. ■
surface plate and a hardness tester. The was free. Underneath the
shelves behind hold accessories for the bench, and on the floor, are 11
grinding machines. Out of sight, behind stocks of larger sizes of metal
the horizontal mill, is a Clarkson tool and and hot rolled steel sections
cutter grinder. cut into 36” lengths.
Looking the other way photo 5 is Both benches have sets
the door into the hallway with, in the of drawers on heavy duty
centre, a Britan repetition lathe. This runners. Under the short
was bought from a local two-man bench are drawers containing
machining company who were retiring. reamers, lathe tools and
Fortuitously extra accessories came up inserts, milling cutters, hand
on the internet soon after purchase. The tools, taps and dies and
lathe has proved useful as I am making Coventry die chaser grinding
most of the nuts, bolts and studs for jigs and drills, photo 7. The
my model engines. The repetition lathe drawers under the long bench
has a two-speed reversing motor, which contain silver steel, gauge
needs a proper 3-phase supply to be plate and shim, DIY tooling and
useful. To the left, next to the hardness welding and repetition lathe
tester, is an Edwards arbor press given accessories. Engine Parts

62 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

 www.model-engineer.co.uk/classifieds/

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Machines and Tools Offered and smoothly, £270. bound. Advert only pages removed. In
■ Warco 2B5 drilling machine mounted T. 01179 324048. Bristol. good used condition. Price £10/20 per
on a Clarke CWB57 workbench. book dependant on number of issues
Complete with co-ordinate table size Parts and Materials therein. Offers invited.
150mm x 470mm with Sinc DRO’s ■ Stuart Turner Sun complete set of T. 01377 270120. Driffield.
on X279 & Y148. (Actual movement). castings unstarted, still in original box
120mm drill vice included. £550 ono. with other components and drawings, ■ Model Engineer magazines - bound,
T. 07984 714487. Derby. £170. T. 01179 324048. Bristol. binders, unbound copies,1898 - 2018.
Will sell complete or split. £1 per volume.
Models ■ Don’t throw away your old Myford Purchaser collects or pays post &
■ Part-built Maltese Falcon 260cc ML7 cross-slide feedscrew. Send an packing or carrier charges.
engine. Crankshaft, crankcases, cylinders image to me and I might just buy it from T. 01929 462053. Wareham, Dorset
completed, Honda pistons, bearings you. State imperial or metric, jpeg please.
and gears supplied, also construction T. 01258 860975. Blandford. Wanted
manual. Sale due to ill health. £500 ■ Cowells ME lathe must be reasonably
ONO. T. 01233 756276. Ashford, Kent. Magazines, Books and Plans new with re-settable dials.
■ Model Engineer Volumes 90-221 T. 01986 835776.
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Ɣ Need a part for your loco or model CNC machined ?

Ɣ Need fine engraving done onto metal ?
Ɣ We have lathes, mills, plasma cutters, laser engravers.
Ɣ CNC Machine conversions (both lathes and mills).
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To advertise on these pages contact Angela Price at angela.price@mytimemedia.com

NO job
j too small give us a ring today for a chat !
Tel: 01664 454795
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Looking to sell? Send photos to

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Or call us on 0115 677 0347
THINKING OF SELLING YOUR
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Looking to sell? Send photos to
and want it handled in a quick
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value@webuyanyworkshop.com
Contact Dave Anchell, to see what we would pay
Quillstar (Nottingham)
Tel: 0115 9206123 Or call us on
Mob: 07779432060
Email: david@quillstar.co.uk
0115 677 0347

64 www.model-engineer.co.uk Model Engineers’ Workshop

All advertisements will be inserted in the first
available issue.
There are no reimbursement for cancellations.
All advertisement must be pre-paid.
The Business Advertisements (Disclosure)
Order 1977 - Requires all advertisements
by people who sell goods in the course of
business to make that fact clear.
Consequently all trade ads in Model
Engineers’ Workshop carry this ‘T’ symbol

www.model-engineer.co.uk

To advertise

To advertise on these pages contact Angela Price at angela.price@mytimemedia.com

here please
email
angela.price@
mytimemedia.com

Meccano Spares
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New Reproduction and

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Meccano Parts.
www.meccanospares.com
sales@meccanospares.com
Tel: 01299 660 097

July 2020 65