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1988/04/01 Testing and Adjusting (SENR2797-02)

SMCS -

Troubleshooting PSP
202 -000B
Troubleshooting can be difficult. The Troubleshooting Index gives a list of possible problems. To

4
make a repair to a problem, make reference to the cause and correction on the pages that
follow.
10: /11/1 022A
4
SEN 6:03+ 3
This list of problems, causes and corrections will only give an indication of where a possible
problem can be, and what repairs are needed. Normally, more or other repair work is needed

© 2 R279 01:00
beyond the recommendation in the list.

024 7
Remember that a problem is not normally caused only by one part, but by the relation of one part
with other parts. This list is only a guide and cannot give all possible problems and corrections.

Cat
The serviceman must find the problem and it source, then make the necessary repairs.

erp
Troubleshooting Index
illa
r In
1. Engine Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On.
2. Engine Will Not Start. c.
3. Misfiring Or Running Rough.

4. Stall At Low rpm.

5. Sudden Changes In Engine rpm.
6. Not Enough Power.

7. Too Much Vibration.

8. Loud Combustion Noise.
9. Loud Noise (Clicking) From Valve Compartment.
10. Oil In Cooling System.
11. Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine.
12. Fuel Consumption Too High.
13. Loud Noise From Valves Or Valve Operating Components.
14. Little Movement Of Rocker Arm And Too Much Valve Clearance.
15. Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free.
16. Oil At The Exhaust.
17. Little Or No Valve Clearance.
18. Engine Has Early Wear.

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19. Coolant In Lubrication Oil.

20. Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke.
21. Too Much White Or Blue Smoke.
22. Engine Has Low Oil Pressure.
23. Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil.
24. Engine Coolant Is Too Hot.
25. Exhaust Temperature Is Too High.
26. Starter Motor Does Not Turn.
27. Alternator Gives No Charge.
28. Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular.

29. Alternator Charge Is Too High.

30. Alternator Has Noise.

31. Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine.

Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On

Probable Cause:

1. Battery Has Low Output:

Make Reference to Problem 27.

2. Wires Or Switches Have Defect:

Make Reference to Problem 27.

3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:

Make Reference to Problem 26.

4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:

Make Reference to Problem 26.

5. Inside Problem Prevents Engine Crankshaft From Turning:

If the crankshaft cannot be turned after the drive equipment is disconnected, remove the fuel
nozzles and check for fluid in the cylinders while the crankshaft is turned. If fluid in the cylinders
is not the problem, the engine must be disassembled to check for other inside problems. Some
of these inside problems are bearing seizure, piston seizure, wrong pistons installed in the
engine, and valves making contact with pistons.

Problem 2: Engine Will Not Start

Probable Cause:

1. Slow Cranking Speed:

Make reference to Problem 27.
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2. No Fuel In The Housing For The Fuel Injection Pumps:

Fill the housing for the fuel injection pumps with fuel with the priming pump. Remove the air with
the bleed valve.

3. Dirty Fuel Filter:

Install new fuel filter.

4. Dirty or Broken Fuel Lines:

Clean or install new fuel lines as necessary.

5. No Fuel To Cylinders:
Put fuel in fuel tank. "Prime" (remove the air and/or low quality fuel from the fuel system).

6. Bad Quality Fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of clean
fuel in the fuel tank.

7. Fuel Has "Cloud Point" Higher Than Atmospheric Temperature ("Cloud Point" = Temperature
Which Makes Wax Form In Fuel):
Drain the fuel tank lines, and fuel injection pump housing. Change the fuel filter. Fill the tank with
fuel which has the correct "cloud point" and remove the air from the system with the priming
pump.

8. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

9. Overfueling Spring Not Inltalled:

Install overfueling spring.

Problem 3: Misfiring Or Running Rough

Probable Cause:

1. Air In The Fuel System:

Find air leak in the fuel system and correct. Remove air from fuel system. See Fuel System in
Testing and Adjusting.

2. Fuel Pressure is Low:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bad bends in the fuel line between fuel
tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure at the fuel
injection pump housing. If fue pressure at high idle is lower than 105 kPa (15 psi), install a new
filter element. If fuel pressure is still low, check the pumping spring and the check valves in the
fuel transfer pump.

3. Leak or Break in Fuel Line Between Injection Pump and Injection Valve:
Install a new fuel line.

4. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Injection Pump(s):

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Run engine at rpm that gives maximum misfiring or rough running. Then loosen a fuel line nut on
the injection valve for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where loosening the fuel line
nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection valve for that
cylinder. Install new parts where needed.

5. Fuel System Not Timed Correctly to Engine:

Make adjustment to timing if necessary.

6. Wrong Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment, See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

7. Bent or Broken Push Road:

Replacement of push rod is necessary.

8. Worn Valve Seat or Face of Valve:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed.

Problem 4: Stall At Low rpm

Probable Cause:

1. Idle rpm Too Low:

Make adjustments to governor so idle rpm is the same as given in the Fuel Setting And Related
Information Fiche.

2. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Run engine at rpm that gives maximum misfiring or rough running. Then loosen a fuel line nut on
the injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylindr where loosening the fuel line
nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection valve for that
cylinder. Install new parts where needed.

Problem 5: Sudden Changes In Engine Speed (rpm)

Probable Cause:

1. Failure of Governor or Fuel Injection Pump:

Look for damaged or broken springs, linkage or other parts. Remove the governor. Check for
free travel of the fuel rack. Be sure fuel injection pumps are installed correctly. Check for correct
governor spring. Install new parts for those that have damage or defects.

Problem 6: Not Enough Power

Probable Cause:

1. Air In The Fuel System:

Find air leak in the fuel system and correct. Remove air from fuel system. See FUEL SYSTEM in
Testing and Adjusting.

2. Fuel Pressure Is Low:

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Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks, or bad bends, in the fuel line between fuel
tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure at the fuel
injection pump housing. If fuel pressure at high idle is lower than 105 kPa (15 psi), install a new
fuel filter element. If fuel pressure is still low, check the pumping spring and the check valves in
the fuel transfer pump.

3. Bad Quality Fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of clean
fuel in the fuel tank.

4. Constant Bleed Valve Stays Open or Closed:

Install new parts if needed.

5. Leaks in Air Inlet System:

Check the pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions in the air cleaner.

6. Governor Linkage:
Make adjustment to get full travel of linkage. Install new parts for those that have damage or
defects.

7. Wrong Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment, See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting

8. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Run engine at rpm that gives maximum misfiring or rough running. Then loosen a fuel line nut on
the injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where loosening the fuel
line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection valve for
that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.

9. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

10. Fuel Setting Too Low:

Make reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

11. Turbocharger Has Carbon Deposits or Other Causes of Friction:

Make inspection and repair of turbocharger as necessary.

Problem 7: Too Much Vibration

Probable Cause:

1. Loose Bolt in Nut Holding Pulley or Damper:

Tighten bolt or nut.

2. Pulley or Damper Has A Defect:

Install a new pulley or damper.

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3. Fan Blade Not in Balance:

Loosen or remove fan belts and operate engine for a short time at the rpm that the vibration was
present. If vibration is not still present, make a replacement of the fan assembly.

4. Engine Supports Are Loose, Worn, or Have a Defect:

Tighten all mounting bolts. Install new components if necessary.

5. Misfiring or Running Rough:

Make reference to Problem 3:

Problem 8: Loud Combustion Noise (Knock)

Probable Cause:

1. Bad Quality Fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of clean
fuel in the fuel tank.

2. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Run engine at rpm that gives maximum combustion noise. Then loosen a fuel line nut on the
injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where loosening the fuel line
nut stops the combustion noise. Test the injection pump and injection valve for that cylinder.
Install new parts where needed.

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

Problem 9: Loud Noise (Clicking) From Valve Compartment

Probable Cause:

1. Damage to Valve Spring(s) or Locks:

Install new parts where necessary. Locks with defects can cause the valve to slide into the
cylinder. This will cause much damage.

2. Not Enough Lubrication:

Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm,
but only a small flow of oil at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those sending oil
to the cylinder head.

3. Too Much Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment. See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

4. Damage to Valves:
Make a replacement of the valve(s) and make an adjustment as necessary.

Problem 10: Oil In Cooling System

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Probable Cause:

1. Defect In Core of Oil Cooler:

Install a new core in the oil cooler.

2. Defect in Head Gasket:

Install a new head gasket.

Problem 11: Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine

Probable Cause:

1. Failure of Bearing For Connecting Rod:

Inspect the bearing for the connecting rod and the bearing surface on the crankshaft. Install new
parts when necessary.

2. Damage to Timing Gears:

Install new parts where necessary.

3. Damage to Crankshaft:
Make replacement of the crankshaft.

Problem 12: Fuel Consumption Too High

Probable Cause:

1. Fuel System Leaks:

Large changes in fuel consumption may be the result. Inspect the fuel system for leaks and
make repairs as necessary.

2. Fuel and Combustion Noise (Knock):

Small increases in fuel consumption may be the result of fuel nozzles with defects, rough
running, or factors causing loss of power. See Problem 3 and Problem 6:

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make an adjustment to fuel injection timing.

Problem 13: Loud Noise From Valves Or Valve Drive Components

Probable Cause:

1. Damage to Valve Spring(s):

Make replacement of parts with damage.

2. Damage to Camshaft:
Make replacement of parts with damage. Clean engine thoroughly.

3. Damage to Valve Lifter:

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Clean engine thoroughly. Make a replacement of the camshaft and valve lifters. Look for valves
that do not move freely. Make an adjustment to valve clearance. See the Subject Valve
Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
4. Damage to Valve(s):
Make a replacement of the valve(s) and make an adjustment as necessary.

Problem 14: Little Movement Of Rocker Arm And Too Much Valve Clearance

Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment. See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

2. Not Enough Lubrication:

Check lubricant in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm, but
only a small flow at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those sending oil to the
cylinder head.

3. Rocker Arm Worn at Face That Makes Contact With Valve:

If there is too much wear, install new rocker arms. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

4. End of Valve Stem Worn:

If there is too much wear, install new valves. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

5. Worn Push Rods:

If there is too much wear, install new push rods. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

6. Valve Lifters Worn:

If there is too much wear, install new valve lifters. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

7. Damage to Valve Lifters:

Install new valve lifters. Check camshaft for wear. Check for free movement of valves or bent
valve stem. Clean engine thoroughly. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the Subject Valve
Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

8. Worn Cams on Camshaft:

Check valve clearance. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stems. Check for valve
lifter wear. Install a new camshaft. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the Subject Valve
Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

Problem 15: Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free

Probable Cause:
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1. Damage to Locks:
Locks with damage can cause the valve to fall into the cylinder. This will cause much damage.

2. Damage to Valve Spring(s):

Install new valve spring(s).

Problem 16: Oil At The Exhaust

Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Oil in the Valve Compartment:

Look at both ends of the rocker arm shaft. Be sure that there is a plug in each end.

2. Worn Valve Guides:

Reconditioning of the cylinder head is needed.

3. Worn Piston Rings:

Inspect and install new parts as needed.

4. Running Engine Too Long At Low Idle:

Don't let the engine run for long periods of time at low idle.

Problem 17: Little Or No Valve Clearance

Probable Cause:

1. Worn Valve Seat or Face of Valve:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed. Make adjustment of valve clearance. See the Subject
Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.

Problem 18: Engine Has Early Wear

Probable Cause:

1. Dirt in Lubrication Oil:

Remove dirty lubrication oil. Install a new oil filter element. Put clean oil in the engine.

2. Air Inlet Leaks:

Inspect all gaskets and connections. Make repairs if leaks are present.

3. Fuel Leakage Into Lubrication Oil:

This will cause high fuel consumption and low engine oil pressure. Make repairs if leaks are
present. Install new parts where needed.

Problem 19: Coolant In Lubrication Oil

Probable Cause:

1. Failure of Oil Cooler Core:

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Install a new core for the oil cooler.

2. Failure of Cylinder Head Gasket:

Install a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten the bolts holding the cylinder head, according to
Specifications.

3. Crack or Defect in Cylinder Head:

Install a new cylinder head.

4. Crack or Defect in Cylinder Block:

Install a new cylinder block.

5. Failure of Seals for Cylinder Liners:

Make a replacement of the seals.

Problem 20: Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke

Probable Cause:

1. Not Enough Air For Combustion:

Check air cleaner for restrictions. Check inlet manifold pressure. Inspect turbocharger for correct
operation.

2. Bad Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):

Test all nozzles. Install new nozzles if test shows replacement is needed.

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

Problem 21: Too Much White Or Blue Smoke

Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Lubrication Oil in Engine Remove extra oil:

Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine. Do not put too much oil in
engine.

2. Misfiring or Running Rough:

Make Reference to Problem 3:

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

4. Worn Valve Guides:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed.

5. Worn Piston Rings:

Install new piston rings.

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6. Failure of Turbocharger Oil Seal:

Check inlet manifold for oil and make repair to turbocharger if necessary.

Problem 22: Engine Has Low Oil Pressure

Probable Cause:

1. Defect in Oil Pressure Gauge:

Install new gauge.

2. Dirty Oil Filter or Oil Cooler:

Check the operation of bypass valve for the filter. Install new oil filter elements if needed. Clean
or installnew oil cooler core. Remove dirty oil from engine. Put clean oil in engine.

3. Diesel Fuel in Lubrication Oil:

Find the place where diesel fuel gets into the lubrication oil. Make repairs as needed. Remove
the lubrication oil that has diesel fuel in it. Install a new oil filter element. Put clean oil in the
engine.

4. Too Much Clearance Between Rocker Arm Shaft and Rocker Arms:
Check lubrication in valve compartment. Install new parts as necessary.

5. Oil Pump Suction Pipe Has A Defect:

Replacement of pipe is needed.

6. Relief Valve for Oil Pump Does Not Operate Correctly:

Clean valve and housing. Install new parts as necessary.

7. Oil Pump Has a Defect:

Make repair or replacement of oil pump if necessary.

8. Too Much Clearance Between Camshaft and Camshaft Bearings:

Install new camshaft and camshaft bearings if necessary.

9. Too Much Clearance Between Crankshaft and Crankshaft Bearings:

Check the oil filter for correct operation. Install new parts if necessary.

10. Too Much Bearing Clearance for Idler Gear:

Inspect bearings and make replacement as necessary.

11. Orifices For Piston Cooling Not Installed:

Install piston cooling orifices.

Problem 23: Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil

Probable Cause:

1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine:

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Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine. Do not
put too much oil in engine.
2. Oil Leaks:
Find all oil leaks. Make repairs as needed.

3. Oil Temperature Is Too High:

Check operation of oil cooler. Install new parts if necessary. Clean the core of the oil cooler.

4. Too Much Oil In Valve Compartment:

Make reference to Problem 16.

5. Worn Valve Guides:

Make reference to Problem 16.

6. Worn Piston Rings And Cylinder Liners:

Install new parts if necessary.

7. Failure of Seal Rings In Turbocharger:

Check inlet manifold for oil and make repair to turbocharger if necessary.

Problem 24: Engine Coolant Is Too Hot

Probable Cause:

1. Restriction To Air Flow Through Radiator or Restriction To Flow Of Coolant Through The
Radiator:
Remove all restrictions to flow.

2. Not Enough Coolant In System:

Add coolant to cooling system.

3. Pressure Cap Has A Defect:

Check operation of pressure cap. Install a new pressure cap if necessary.

4. Combustion Gases in Coolant:

Find out where gases get into the cooling system. Make repairs as needed.

5. Water Temperature Regulator (Thermostat) or Temperature Gauge Has A Defect:

Check water temperature regulator for correct operation. Check temperature gauge operation.
Install new parts as necessary.

6. Water Pump Has A Defect:

Make repairs to the water pump as necessary.

6. Too Much Load On The System:

Make a reduction in the load.

7. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

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Make adjustment to timing.

Problem 25: Exhaust Temperature Is Too High

Probable Cause:

1. Air Inlet or Exhaust System Has A Restriction:

Remove restriction.

2. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make an adjustment to the timing.

Problem 26: Starter Motor Does Not Turn

Probable Cause:

1. Battery Has Low Output:

Check condition of battery. Charge battery or make replacement as necessary.

2. Wires or Switch Has Defect:

Make repairs or replacement as necessary.

3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:

Install a new solenoid.

4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:

Make repair or replacement of starter motor.

Problem 27: Alternator Gives No Charge

Probable Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of
parts with defects.

3. Brushes Have A Defect:

Install new brushes.

4. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:

Install a new rotor

Problem 28: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular

Probable Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:

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Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:
Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of
parts with defects.

3. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:

Install a new alternator regulator.

4. Alternator Brushes Have A Defect:

Install new brushes.

5. Rectifier Diodes Have A Defect:

Make replacement of rectifier diode that has a defect.

6. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:

Install a new rotor.

Problem 29: Alternator Charge Is Too High

Probable Cause:

1. Alternator Or Alternator Regulator Has Loose Connections:

Tighten all connections to alternator or alternator regulator.

2. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:

Install a new alternator regulator.

Problem 30: Alternator Has Noise

Probable Cause:

1. Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Has A Defect:

Install a new drive belt for the alternator.

2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley:

Check groove in pulley for key that holds pulley in place. If groove is worn, install a new pulley.
Tighten pulley nut according to Specifications.

3. Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment:
Make an adjustment to put drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.

4. Worn Alternator Bearings:

Install new bearings in the alternator.

5. Rotor Shaft Is Bent:

Make a replacement of the rotor shaft.

6. Rectifiers In The Alternator Are Shorted:

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Make a replacement of the diode assembly.

Problem 31: Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine

Probable Cause:

1. Electrical Connections Are Not Correct:

Correct electrical connections and wiring.

2. Adjustment For Plunger Shaft Is Not Correct:

Make an adjustment to the plunger shaft.

3. Wrong Plunger In Solenoid:

Install the correct plunger in the solenoid.

4. Not Enough Plunger Travel:

Make an adjustment to the plunger shaft or make a replacement of the solenoid if necessary.

5. Defect In Solenoid Wiring:

Make a replacement of the solenoid.

Fuel System
Either too much fuel or not enough fuel for combustion can be the cause of a problem in the fuel
system.

Many times work is done on the fuel system when the problem is realy with some other part of
the engine. The source of the problem is difficult to find, especially when smoke comes from the
exhaust. Smoke that comes from the exhaust can be caused by a bad fuel injection valve, but it
can also be caused by one or more of the reasons that follow:

a. Not enough air for good combustion.

b. An overload at high altitude.
c. Oil leakage into combustion chamber.

d. Not enough compression.

e. Fuel injection timing retarded.

Fuel System Inspection

To check for low fuel pressure, remove the 1/8" Pipe Plug from the fuel filter base. Connect a
pressure gauge from the 6V9450 Engine Pressure Group to the hole where the plug was
removed. Run the engine at high idle and check the fuel pressure reading. The fuel pressure
must be at least 105 kPa (15 psi).

A problem with the components that send fuel to the engine can cause low fuel pressure. This
can decrease engine performance.

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1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Look at the cap for the fuel tank to make sure the vent is
not filled with dirt.

2. Check the fuel lines for fuel leakage. Be sure the fuel supply line does not have a restriction or
a bad bend.

3. Install a new fuel filter. Clean the primary fuel filter.

4. Remove any air that may be in the fuel system. If there is air in the fuel system, use the
priming pump and open the drain valve on the fuel injection pump housing until fuel without air
comes from the drain line.

NOTICE

When fuel injection lines are loosened or tightened on the fuel

injection nozzles, two wrenches must be used. The nozzle must
be held with a wrench or damage to the nozzle can result.

To remove air from the fuel injection lines, loosen the fuel line nuts on the fuel injection nozzles
1/2 turn. Move the governor lever to the low idle position. Crank engine with the starter motor
until fuel without air comes from the fuel line connections. Tighten the fuel line nuts.

NOTE: The fuel priming pump will not give enough pressure to push fuel through the reverse
flow check valves in the fuel injection pumps.

Checking Engine Cylinders Separately

An easy check can be made to find the cylinder that runs rough (misfires) and causes black
smoke to come out of the exhaust pipe.

Run the engine at the speed that is the roughest. Loosen the fuel line nut at a fuel injection
pump. This will stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel
line is found that makes no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line
nut after the test before the next fuel line nut is loosened. Check each cylinder by this method.
When a cylinder is found where the loosened fuel line nut does not make a difference in engine
performance, test the injection pump and fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder.

Temperature of an exhaust manifold port, when an engine runs at low idle speed, can also be an
indication of the condition of a fuel injection nozzle. Low temperature at an exhaust manifold port
is an indication of no fuel to the cylinder. This can possible be an indication of a nozzle with a
defect. Extra high temperature at an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of too much fuel
to the cylinder, also caused by a nozzle with a defect.

The most common defects found with the fuel injection nozzles are:

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1. Carbon on tip of the nozzle or in the nozzle orifice.

2. Orifice wear.
3. Steel wire brushing of nozzle tip.

Testing Fuel Injection Nozzles

NOTE: For more information on the 5P5140 Nozzle Testing Group see, Special Instruction, Form
No. SEHS7292.

NOTICE

Do not test nozzles unless you have the correct service tools.

5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group

(1) 8N7005 Nozzle Assembly. (A) 5P7448 Adapter. (B) 5P4146 Gauge, 0 to 6900 kPa (0 to 1000 psi). (C) 6V2170 Tube
Assembly. (D) 2P2324 Gauge, 0 to 34 500 kPa (0 to 5000 psi). (E) Gauge protector valve for 2P2324 Gauge. (F)
FT1384 Extension. (G) Gauge protector valve for 5P4146 Gauge. (H) On-off valve. (J) 8S2270 Fuel Collector. (K)
Pump isolator valve.

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Extra Valve (L) Gauge protector valve (must be in open position at all times).

NOTICE

Be sure to use clean SAE J967 Calibration Fluid when tests are
made. Dirty test fluid will damage components of fuel injection
nozzles. The temperature of the test fluid must be 18 to 24°C (65
to 75°F) for good test results.

Order calibration fluid by part number, in the quantities needed, according to the information that
follows:

6V6068 Calibration Fluid, 18.9 liter (5 U.S. gal.)6V6067 Calibration Fluid, 208.2 liter (55 U.S.
gal.)

The fuel injection nozzles is not to be disassembled for cleaning or adjustment. Do the tests that
follow to determine if the nozzle performance is acceptable.

Valve Opening Pressure Test.Flush the Nozzle.Tip Leakage Test.Orifice Restriction

Test.Bleedscrew Leakage Test.

Nozzle Preparation for Test

Before fuel injection nozzle (1) can be tested, all loose carbon around the tip of the nozzle must
be removed with the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush (M).

Removing Carbon Dam

(1) Fuel injection nozzle. (2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal.
Remove carbon dam (2) with needle nose pliers and remove seal (3) from the nozzle.

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NOTICE

Do not use a steel brush or a wire wheel to clean the nozzle

body or the nozzle tip. Use of these tools can cause a small
reduction of orifice size, and this will cause a large reduction in
engine horsepower. Too much use of the 8S2258 Brass Wire
Brush will also remove the coating that is on the nozzle for
protection.

Clean the groove for carbon seal dam (2) and the body of the nozzle below the groove with the
8S2258 Brass Wire Brush (M). Remove the carbon, but be sure not to use the brush enough to
cause damage to the body of the nozzle.

NOTE: A change in color in the area below the groove is normal and does not effect the body of
the nozzle.

8S2245 Cleaning Kit

(M) 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool. (P) 8S2250 Nozzle Holding Tool.

Fuel Injection Nozzle

(4) Bleed screw and seal.
Remove bleed screw and seal (4) from the nozzle.

NOTE: The bleed screw and seal must be removed for all tests except the Bleed Screw Leakage
Test.

Valve Opening Pressure Test (VOP)

1. Install 6V2170 Tube Assembly (C) to the tester.

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2. Install fuel injection nozzle with 5P7448 Adapter (A) on tube assembly (6). Position the bleed
screw hole toward the tester and in line with 6V2170 Tube Assembly (C). This will make the fuel
spray pattern horizontal. Be sure the nozzle tip is down and extends into FT1384 Extension (F)
and 8S2270 Fuel Collector (J).

When fuel injection nozzles are tested, be sure to wear eye

protection. Test fluid comes from the orifices in the nozzle tip
with high pressure. The test fluid can pierce (go through) the
skin and cause serious injury to the operator. Keep the tip of the
nozzle pointed away from the operator and into the 8S2270 Fuel
Collector and FT1384 Extension.

Nozzle Ready For Test

(E) Gauge protector valve. (H) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.

NOTICE

Put a shop towel around the upper part of the nozzle to take in
any fuel leakage.

3. Close on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (K).

4. Open gauge protector valve (E). Operate the pump to make a slow increase in pressure until
the valve in the fuel injection nozzle just starts to open. Read the maximum gauge pressure as
the instant fluid flows from the tip.

NOTE: It is possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to go down fast if the valve makes a
noise (chatters) when it opens. It is also possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to be
almost constant when the valve in the fuel injection nozzle opens.

NOTE: The valve in the fuel injection nozzle can be good and still not make a noise (chatter), or
not have a very fine vapor (spray) from the orifices in the tip of the fuel injection nozzle during
Step 4.

If the opening pressure is not within specifications, do not use the fuel injection nozzle again.
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Flush the Nozzle

1. Close gauge protector valve (E). Close on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (G).

NOTE: Make sure nozzle extends inside and below the top of FT1384 Extension (F).

2. Operate the pump rapidly for three full strokes.

Tip Leakage Test

1. Remove all fuel from the nozzle tip and body with a clean cloth.

2. Put a clean cloth around the body of the nozzle to take in any leakage from the bleed screw
hole and prevent any fuel leakage to drain down to the tip of the nozzle.

Nozzle Ready For Test

(E) Gauge protector valve. (H) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.
3. Open gauge protector valve (E). Close on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (K).

4. Make and hold for 15 seconds a pressure of 1380 to 2000 kPa (200 to 290 psi) less than the
opening pressure measured in the VOP Test and make a note of the number of drops that fall.

5. If the nozzle is not within specifications, DO NOT USE THE NOZZLE.

Orifice Restriction Test

1. Close gauge protector valve (E) and on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (K).

2. Point the tip of the fuel injection nozzle into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension.
Be sure the bleed screw hole is positioned toward the tester and is in line with 6V2170 Tube

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Assembly (C). This will make the fuel injection nozzle be 15° from vertical and the spray pattern
will be horizontal.

3. Make a rapid increase in pressure and look at the orifice discharge (shape of discharge) when
fluid begins to flow through the fuel injection nozzle. The discharge must be the same through all
nine orifices. Any change either vertically or horizontally, is an indication of a bad nozzle.

Good Nozzle (Use Again)

Typical Discharge For Orifice With A Restriction (Replacement Necessary)

Typical Discharge With Horizontal Distortion (Replacement Necessary)

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Typical Discharge With Vertical Distortion (Replacement Necessary)

Bleed Screws For Fuel Injection Nozzle

Bleed Screw Leakage Test

1. Install bleed screw (4) and the seal (washer) in the fuel injection nozzle. Tighten a type (A)
bleed screw to 0.9 ± 0.1 N·m (8 ± 1 lb in). Tighten a type (B) or (C) bleed screw to 1.8 ± 0.2 N·m
(16 ± 2 lb in). (Use the 6V4980 Torque Screw Driver to tighten the bleed screw to the correct
torque.)

NOTICE

Do not tighten the bleed screw more than the torque shown. The
bleed screw or seal can be damaged.

2. Put the tip of the fuel injection nozzle down inside the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384
Extension.

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3. Close on-off valve (H). Open gauge protector valve (E) and pump isolator valve (K).

4. Pump the tester until fuel injection nozzle is full of fluid and the pressure on the gauge is 12
800 to 14 800 kPa (1870 to 2165 psi).

NOTE: 15 or 20 strokes of the pump can be necessary for the pressure to get to 12 800 to 14
800 kPa (1870 to 2165 psi).

5. If there is leakage, replace the sealing washer. Inspect the washer face of the bleed screw for
damage, replace if needed. Test the nozzle again. If there is still leakage, the fuel injection
nozzle must be replaced.

6. If no fuel leakage is found, the fuel injection nozzle is acceptable. Put a new seal (3) on the
nozzle. Install a new carbon dam (2) in nozzle groove with 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool (N).

Installing Carbon Dam

(2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool.

Fuel Injection Lines

Fuel from the fuel injection pumps goes to the fuel injection nozzles through the fuel injection
lines.

When fuel injection lines are disconnected or removed, always put caps or plugs on the ends to
keep dirt out of the lines. When fuel injection lines are installed, be sure all clamps and dampers
are installed in their original location.

The nuts that hold a fuel injection line to an injection nozzle and injection pump must be
tightened to the correct torque. If the nut is loose, fuel will leak from the connection. If the nut is
tightened too tight, the inside diameter of the line will become smaller and cause a restriction to
the flow of fuel in the line. Use a torque wrench and a 5P144 Fuel Line Socket to tighten the fuel
injection line nuts to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft)

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Fuel injection lines which are bent, damaged or rubbing can leak
and cause a fire. Replace any lines which have damage or leaks
that cannot be corrected when tightened to the correct torque.

Checking The Plunger And Lifter Of An Injection Pump

NOTE: There are no different size spacers available to adjust the timing dimension of the fuel
injection pumps. If the pump plunger or the lifter is worn, they must be replaced. Because there
is no adjustment to the timing dimension possible, there is NO OFF ENGINE LIFTER SETTING
PROCEDURE.

When there is too much wear on the fuel injection pump plunger, the lifter may also be worn and
there will not be good contact between the two parts. To stop fast wear on the end of a new
plunger, install new lifters in the place of the lifters that have wear.

Wear Between Lifter And Plunger

Fig. A. Illustrates the contact surfaces of a new pump plunger and a new lifter. In Fig. B the pump plunger and lifter
have worn considerably. Fig. C shows how the flat end of a new plunger makes poor contact with a worn lifter, resulting
in rapid wear to both parts.
An injection pump can have a good fuel flow coming from it but not be a good pump because of
slow timing that is caused by wear on the bottom end of the plunger. When making a test on a
pump that has been used for a long time, use a micrometer and measure the length of the
plunger. If the length of the plunger is shorter than the minimum length (worn) dimension given in
the chart, install a new pump.

Look for wear at the top part of the plunger. Check the operation of the plunger according to the
instructions for the Fuel Injection Test Bench.

Removal And Installation Of Fuel Injection Pumps

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Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps

NOTICE

Before any parts are removed from the fuel injection pump
housing, thoroughly clean all dirt from the housing. Dirt that
gets inside the pump housing will cause much damage.

NOTE: The fuel rack must be in the center position before the fuel injection pumps can be
removed.

1. Remove timing pin cover (1) from the side of the fuel injection pump housing.

Fuel Injection Pump Housing

(1) Timing pin cover.
2. Move the governor lever to the Fuel OFF position and install timing pin (2) in the rack
centering hole as shown.

Timing Pin Installed

(2) Timing pin.
3. With the timing pin in position, move the governor lever to the high idle position. The fuel rack
will move until the edge of the groove in the rack makes contact with the timing pin. The fuel rack

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is now in the center position. Fasten the governor lever in the HIGH IDLE position.

4. Remove the fuel injection line from the fuel injection pump.

5. Put the 8T5287 Wrench into spline of bushing that holds the fuel injection pump in the
housing. Remove the bushing.

6. Install the 8S2244 Extractor on the threads of the injection pump. Carefully pull the pump
straight up out of the bore.

Be careful when an injection pump is disassembled. Do not damage the surface on the plunger.
The plunger and barrel are made as a set. Do not put the plunger of one pump in the barrel of
another pump. If one part is worn, install a complete new pump assembly. Be careful when the
plunger is put into the bore of the barrel. When injection pumps and spacers are removed from
the fuel injection pump housing, keep the parts together so they can be installed in the same
location in the housing.

Installation of Fuel Injection Pumps

NOTICE

The fuel rack MUST BE IN THE CENTER POSITION before the

correct installation of an injection pump is possible.

1. Put the fuel rack in the center position. Make reference to Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps.

2. Put the 8S2244 Extractor on the threads of the fuel injection pump.

3. Make sure the lifter for the pump to be installed is at the bottom of its travel.

4. Put the groove of barrel (4) in alignment with the middle (fourth) tooth of gear segment (5).

5. Look into the bore for the fuel injection pump and locate both dowels. There is a dowel in the
lifter and a dowel in the opposite side of the bore in the fuel injection pump housing. Put the
groove in the pump barrel in alignment with the large dowel in the pump housing and put the slot
(groove) on the opposite side of the gear teeth on the sector gear in alignment with the small
dowel in the lifter. Install the fuel injection pump straight down into the bore.

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Fuel Pump Installation

(3) 8S2244 Extractor. (4) Groove of barrel. (5) Fourth tooth of gear segment.
6. Push down on extractor (3) (hand force only) and install O-ring and bushing that holds the
injection pump in the pump housing. If the pump is in the correct position, the bushing will turn
into the threads of the fuel injection housing with the fingers until it is even with the top of the
housing. When the bushing is installed correctly, tighten the bushing to 165 ± 14 N·m (120 ± 10
lb ft)

NOTICE

The bushing must be tightened to the correct torque. Damage to

the housing will be the result if the bushing is too tight. If the
bushing is not tight enough, the pump will have leakage.

7. Install the fuel injection line to the pump and tighten to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft).

8. Remove timing pin (2) and install timing pin cover (1).

NOTICE

If one or more of the fuel injection pumps have been installed

wrong, it is possible for the engine to run out of control when
started. When any of the fuel injection pumps have been
removed and installed, take the precautions (steps) that follow
to stop the engine if it starts to overspeed (run out of control).

a. Remove the air cleaner pipe from the turbocharger and leave the air inlet for the turbocharger
open.

b. Set the governor at low idle.

Stopping The Engine (Typical Example)

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Be careful when plate is put against air inlet opening. Due to

excessive suction, the plate can be pulled quickly against air
inlet opening. To avoid crushed fingers, do not put fingers
between plate and air inlet opening.

c. Start the engine, and if engine starts to overspeed (run out of control) put a steel plate over
the air inlet to stop the engine.

Locating Top Center Compression Position For No. 1

Piston

No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke is the starting point for all timing
procedures.

NOTE: The engine is seen from the flywheel end when direction of crankshaft rotation is given.

1. Remove starter motor.

2. Install the tools as shown.

Engine Turning Tools Installed

(1) 5P7306 Housing. (2) 5P7305 Gear. (3) Timing bolt.
3. Remove the valve cover.

4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise approximately 30 degrees. The reason for this step is to be
sure the free play is removed from the timing gears when the engine is put on top center.

5. Remove the plug from the timing hole in the flywheel housing. Rotate the crankshaft until a
3/8"-16 NC bolt, 50.8 mm (2.00 in.) long, can be turned into the flywheel through the timing hole
in the flywheel housing. No. 1 piston is now on top center.

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Valve Cover Removed

(4) Rocker arms.
NOTE: If the crankshaft is turned beyond top center do Steps 4 and 5 again.

6. The intake and exhaust valves for No. 1 cylinder will be closed if No. 1 piston is on the
compression stroke. You can move the rocker arms up and down with your hand.

7. If No. 1 piston is not on the compression stroke, remove the timing bolt and rotate the
crankshaft counterclockwise 360°. Install the timing bolt. The No. 1 piston is now at top center on
the compression stroke.

Checking Engine Timing With 8T5300 Timing Indicator

Group And 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group

8T5300 Timing Indicator Group

(1) 8T5250 Engine Timing Indicator. (2) 5P7366 Cable Assembly. (3) 6V2197 Magnetic Transducer. (4) 5P7362 Cable.
(5) 6V2199 and 6V3093 Transducer Adapters. (6) 8K4644 Fuse.
The 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group must be used with the 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group.

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8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group

(7) 5P7437 Adapter. (8) 6V2198 Cable. (9) 5P7436 Adapter. (10) 6V7910 Transducer. (11) 5P7435 Adapter. (12)
6V3016 Washer.

A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected. To avoid

personal injury or fire from fuel spray, the engine must be
stopped before the fuel line is disconnected.

When checking the dynamic timing on an engine without a mechanical advance, Caterpillar
recommends that the serviceman calculate and graph the dynamic timing on a worksheet like
Form No. SEHS8140. These worksheets are available in pads of 50 sheets, order one Form No.
SEHS8140. See Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580, for information required to calculate
the timing curve.

After the timing values are calculated and plotted, the dynamic timing should be checked with
the 8T5300 Engine Timing Indicator Group. To do this, the serviceman must operate the engine
from 1000 rpm (base rpm) to high idle and from high idle to 1000 rpm (base rpm). Unstable
readings are often obtained below 1000 rpm. He must record the dynamic timing at each 100
rpm and at the specified speeds during both acceleration and deceleration. Then he should plot
the results on the worksheet.

Inspection of the plotted value will show if the timing is within specifications. See Special
Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580 for information required to calculate the timing.

1. See the Engine Information Plate for the performance specification number and make
reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct timing specifications
to use.

2. Make reference to Operation Instructions inside the lid of the 8T5300 Timing Indicator (1) or
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580 for complete instructions and calibration.

The engine must be stopped before the timing indicator group is

installed. A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected and a
probe must be installed against the flywheel.

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Transducer In Position
(10) Injection transducer. (13) Fuel injection line for No. 1 cylinder.
3. Loosen all fuel line clamps that hold No. 1 fuel injection line and disconnect fuel injection line
(13) for No. 1 cylinder at the fuel injection pump. Slide the nut up and out of the way. Put 5P7436
Adapter (9) in its place and turn adapter (9) onto the fuel pump bonnet until the top of the bonnet
threads are approximately even with the bottom of the "window" in adapter (9).

4. Put the 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) on the injection transducer (10) and put the end of the
5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) in the "window" of the 5P7436 Adapter (9).

5. Put fuel injection line (13) on top of 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11). Install 5P7437 Adapter (7) and
tighten to a torque of not more than 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

6. Remove the plug from the flywheel housing. Install transducer adapter (5) into the hole the
plug was removed from. Tighten only a small amount.

Transducer In Position
(3) TDC magnetic transducer. (5) Transducer adapter.
7. Push the TDC magnetic transducer (3) into the transducer adapter (5) until it makes contact
with the flywheel. Pull it back out 1.6 mm (.06 in.) and lightly tighten the knurled locknut.

8. Connect the cables from the transducer to Engine Timing Indicator (1). Calibrate and make
adjustmen s. For calibration procedure, make reference to Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8580.

9. Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Then run the engine at approximately
one-half throttle for eight to ten minutes before measuring timing.

10. Run the engine at the speeds required, and record the timing indicator readings.

The Timing Chart gives the acceptable dynamic (engine in motion) timing range as read on the
Timing Indicator Group. The Timing Chart is for engines with 21 ± 1° and 27 ± 1° static (engine
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stopped) timing.

If the engine timing is not correct, make reference to Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin
Method for static adjustment of the fuel injection pump drive.

Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin Method

1. Put No. 1 piston at top center on the compression stroke. Make reference to Locating Top
Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston. Remove the timing bolt and rotate the crankshaft
clockwise 30°.

Timing Pin Cover

(1) Timing pin cover. (2) Cover for timing gear. (3) Nut.
2. Remove timing pin cover (1) from the side of the fuel injection pump housing.

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Timing Pin Installed

(4) 6V4186 Timing Pin.
3. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (4) in the fuel injection pump housing as shown. Slowly rotate the
crankshaft counterclockwise until timing pin (4) goes into the slot in the fuel pump camshaft.

NOTICE

Too much pressure on the timing pin can damage the fuel
injection pump camshaft or the timing pin.

4. Put the timing bolt in the timing hole in the flywheel housing. Slowly move the crankshaft
counterclockwise (as seen from the flywheel end of the engine) until the fuel pump camshaft is
tight against timing pin (4). This removes gear clearance from the drive train. If the bolt can be
installed in the timing hole in the flywheel, the timing of the fuel injection pump is correct.

5. If the timing bolt does not go into the timing hole in the flywheel, the timing of the fuel injection
pump is not correct. Do the steps that follow to adjust the fuel injection pump timing.

6. Remove nuts (3) and cover (2) from the timing gear housing.

Timing Gear For Fuel Injection Pump

(5) Bolt.
7. Loosen bolt (5) that holds the timing gear to the fuel pump camshaft. Turn bolt (5) out
(counterclockwise) three turns.

8. Install 8S2264 Puller Group and loosen the timing gear from the fuel pump camshaft.

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Puller Tools Installed

(6) 8S2264 Puller Group. (7) 8B7560 Step Plate. (8) 1B3680 Bolt 3/8"-24 NF, 95.3 mm (3.75 in.) long. (9) 4B5271
Washer.
9. Rotate the flywheel clockwise 60° before top center No. 1 piston.

10. Tighten retaining bolt (5) finger tight. Be sure timing pin (4) is in the groove in the fuel pump
camshaft.

11. Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the timing bolt can be installed in the
flywheel.

12. Install 6V6175 Adapter on the timing gear. Use two 3/8"-24 NF bolts, 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) long
to fasten the adapter to the puller holes in the timing gear.

Adapter Installed On Timing Gear

(10) 6V6175 Adapter.
13. Hold a torque of 60 to 70 N·m (45 to 50 lb ft) on adapter (10) in a clockwise direction, and
tighten bolt (5) that holds the timing gear to 270 ± 30 N·m (200 ± 20 lb ft).

14. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel and timing pin (4) from the fuel pump camshaft.

15. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise two revolutions. If the timing bolt can be installed in
the flywheel and the timing pin can be installed in the fuel pump camshaft, the timing is correct.

16. If either the timing pin or the timing bolt cannot be installed, do Steps 7 through 16 again.

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PSP
202 -000B
10: 4/11/1 022A
Tightening Timing Gear Bolt

Fuel Setting Procedure 46

SEN :03+ 3
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Cat
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The static fuel setting can be done with the fuel injection pump and governor on or off the

illa
engine. For more information on the fuel setting procedure, see Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8024.
r In
c.
1. Remove cover (1) from the side of the fuel injection pump housing.

2. Install 5P4814 Collet (2) on 6V2014 Bracket Assembly (3).

3. Install the bracket assembly on the fuel pump housing. Lever (5) on the bracket assembly
must be in slot (4) on the fuel rack. Push up on the bracket assembly while the bolts are
tightened.

After the bracket assembly is tightened to the pump housing, shaft (6) must have axial (in and
out) movement, If there is no axial movement of shaft (6), check to be sure lever (5) is in the slot
on the fuel rack and that the bracket assembly is installed correctly. Check to make sure that
lever (5) is not bent. Lever (5) must be perpendicular (at right angle) to the mounting face of the
bracket assembly.

Fuel Injection Pump And Governor

(1) Cover.
4. Put 9S229 Contact Point, 9.7 mm (.38 in.) long on 6V3075 Dial Indicator (7) and install dial
indicator in collet (2).
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Bracket Assembly Installed

(2) 5P4814 Collet. (3) Bracket assembly.

Cover Removed
(4) Slot on fuel rack.

Bracket Assembly
(5) Lever. (6) Shaft.
5. Remove cover (8) from the rear of the governor housing.

6. Remove plug (9) from the rear of the governor housing.

Dial Indicator Installed

(7) 6V3075 Dial Indicator.

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Governor
(8) Cover.

Rear Of Governor Housing

(9) Plug.
7. Move the governor control lever to the FUEL OFF position (rotate governor shaft clockwise).

8. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (10) in the hole in the bracket assembly. Push timing pin in until
contact is made with the fuel rack. Hold the timing pin gently against the fuel rack for Steps 9
and 10. If too much force is used to hold the timing pin, the fuel rack can stick and cause an
incorrect zero reading.

Timing Pin Installed

(10) 6V4186 Timing Pin.
9. Hold the governor control lever in the HIGH IDLE position (rotate governor shaft
counterclockwise).

10. Insert 6V7942 Hook (11) into the hole that plug (9) was removed from. Engage the end of
hook (11) with collar (12) and pull toward the rear of the governor housing until the collar stops
moving. This will make sure the fuel rack stops against the timing pin. This is the rack zero
position.

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6V7942 Hook In Use

(11) 6V7942 Hook.

Cutaway View Of Governor

(11) 6V7942 Hook. (12) Collar.
11. With the hook still pulled toward the rear of the governor, loosen collet (2) and adjust the
revolution counter on the dial indicator to zero. Tighten the collet just enough to hold the indicator
in this position. Move the dial of the indicator to get alignment of the pointer and zero.

12. Remove timing pin (10).

13. Turn rod (13) out of 6V7941 Compressor Assembly (15) until knob (14) is 25.4 mm (1.0 in.)
from the compressor body. Install 6V7941 Compressor Assembly (15) in the hole plug (9) was
removed from.

NOTE: The 6V7941 Compressor Assembly is used to compress the overfueling spring. The
overfueling spring must be compressed to get an accurate fuel setting measurement.

6V7941 Compressor Assembly

(13) Rod. (14) Knob.

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Compressor Assembly Installed

(15) 6V7941 Compressor Assembly.
The procedure to check the fuel setting is different than the procedure to adjust the fuel setting.
Follow Steps 14 through 17 to check the fuel setting. Follow Steps 18 through 21 to adjust the
fuel setting.

14. Fasten the clip end of 8T500 Circuit Tester (16) to rack contact screw (17) and put the other
end to a good electrical ground.

Checking Static Fuel Setting

(16) 8T500 Circuit Tester. (17) Rack contact screw. (18) Adjustment screw cover.
15. Hold the governor control lever in the FUEL ON position (rotate lever fully counterclockwise).

16. Turn rod (13) of compressor assembly (15) in (clockwise) until the light in circuit tester (16)
goes off and the dial indicator hands move an additional 2 mm in the negative (-) direction after
the light goes out.

NOTICE

DO NOT turn the rod any further in if the rod begins to tighten.
Damage to the governor can occur if the rod is turned in further.

17. Slowly turn rod (13) out (counterclockwise) until the circuit tester light just comes on. This is
the static fuel setting. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct static
fuel setting.

NOTE: When the rod is turned out, there will be a small initial movement of the dial indicator
hands, then, they will stop moving while the rod is turned out for approximately another 1 1/2
turns. Now the indicator hands will begin to move again and will follow the turning of the rod until
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the setting is reached. It is important that the rod be turned slowly so that the rack can follow the
governor components.

18. If the fuel setting is not correct, remove adjustment screw cover (18) from the rear of the
governor housing.

Adjustment Screw Cover Removed

(19) Fuel setting screw.
19. Determine how much the setting will have to be changed (see example). Use the chart that
follows to determine how far the adjusting screw must be turned.

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Since "desired setting" is higher than "actual reading," turn adjusting screw out
(counterclockwise) approximately 1/4 turn. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.

Since "desired setting" is lower than "actual reading," turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise)
approximately 1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.

Negative numbers work differently than positive numbers. If one number (-1.25) has a larger
digital value than another one (-1.05), the first number (-1.25) is actually less than the other one.
Therefore, in this example the "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the
adjusting screw in (clockwise) approximately 1/4 turn. Recheck the new setting and readjust if
necessary.

The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out
(counterclockwise) approximately 1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if
necessary.

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The "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw in
approximately 2 7/8 turns.

The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out
approximately 2 7/8 turns.

Adjusting Fuel Setting

(20) 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group.
20. Use 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group (20) to loosen the locknut for adjustment screw
and to turn the adjustment screw.

21. Adjust the fuel setting screw the number of turns determined in Step 19. Always recheck the
setting after each adjustment and adjust again if needed.

Engine Speed Measurement

6V3121 Multitach Group

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(1) Carrying case. (2) Power cable. (3) Tachometer generator. (4) Tachometer drive group. (5) Multitach.
The 6V3121 Multitach Group can measure engine speed from a tachometer drive on the engine.
It also has the ability to measure engine speed from visual engine parts in rotation.

Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7807 is with the 6V3128 Multitach Group and gives
instructions for the test procedure.

The 6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group is another diagnostic tool accessory that can be
used with the 6V2100 Multitach. It can be used on all Caterpillar Diesel Engines equipped with 6
mm (.25 in.) single wall fuel injection lines. With this pickup group, engine speed can be
measured quickly, automatically, and with an accuracy of ± 1 rpm.

6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group

(6) 6V6114 Pickup. (7) 6V6113 Amplifier.
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8029 is with the group and gives instructions for use of the
6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group.

Governor Adjustments

NOTICE

A mechanic with training in governor adjustments is the only

one to make the adjustment to the set point rpm.

Engine rpm must be checked with an accurate tachometer. Make reference to Measuring Engine
Speed.

Low Idle Adjustment

NOTE: The correct LOW IDLE rpm is given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

To help prevent an accident caused by parts in rotation, work

carefully around an engine that has been started.

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Start the engine and run until the temperature of normal operation is reached. Check low idle
rpm with no load on the engine. If an adjustment is necessary, use the procedure that follows:

Low Idle Adjustment

(1) Cover. (2) Low idle screw.
1. To adjust the LOW IDLE rpm, start the engine and run with the governor in the low idle
position. Loosen the locknut for low idle screw (2). Turn the low idle screw to get the correct low
idle rpm. Increase engine speed and return to low idle and check low idle speed again. Tighten
the locknut.

Checking Set Point (Balance Point)

The engine set point is an adjusted specification and is important to the correct operation of the
engine. High idle rpm is NOT an adjusted specification. Set point (formerly balance point) is full
load rpm plus an additional 20 rpm. Set point is the rpm at which the fuel setting adjustment
screw and stop or first torque spring just start to make contact. At this rpm, the fuel setting
adjustment screw and stop or first torque spring still have movement between them. When
additional load is put on the engine, the fuel setting adjustment screw and stop or first torque
spring will become stable against each other. Set point is controlled by the fuel setting and the
high idle adjustment screw.

There is a new and more accurate method for checking the "set point", formerly called the
balance point, of the engine. If the tools for the new method are not available, there is an
alternate method for checking the "set point".

The 6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group with the 6V2100 Multitach can be used to check
the set point. Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7931 Gives instructions for installation and use
of this tool group.

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6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group

Alternate Method

If the set point is correct and the high idle speed is within specifications, the fuel system
operation of the engine is correct. The set point for the engine is:

A. At 20 rpm greater than full load speed.

B. The rpm where the fuel setting adjustment screw and stop or first torque spring just make
contact.

Use the procedure that follows to check the set point. Make reference to Techniques For Loading
Engines in Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7050.

Terminal Location
(3) Brass terminal screw.
1. Connect a tachometer which has good accuracy to the tachometer drive.

2. Connect the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester to the brass terminal screw (3) on the
governor housing. Connect the other end of the tester to a place on the fuel system which is a
good ground connection.

Work carefully around an engine that is running. Engine parts

that are hot, or parts that are moving, can cause personal injury.

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3. Start the engine.

4. With the engine at normal conditions for operation, run the engine at high idle.

5. Make a record of the speed of the engine at high idle.

6. Add load on the engine slowly until the circuit tester light just comes on (minimum light output).
This is the set point.

7. Make a record of the speed (rpm) at the set point.

8. Repeat Step 6 several times to make sure that the reading is correct.

9. Stop the engine. Make a comparison of the records from Steps 5 and 7 with the information
from the Engine Information Plate. If the Engine Information Plate is not available, see the Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche.

The tolerance for the set point is ± 10 rpm. The tolerance for the high idle rpm is ± 30 rpm. If the
readings from Steps 5 and 7 are within the tolerance, no adjustment is needed.

NOTE: It is possible in some applications that the high idle rpm will be less than the lower limit.
This can be caused by high parasitic loads such as hydraulic pumps, compressors, etc.

Adjusting Set Point (Balance Point)

1. If the set point and the high idle rpm are within tolerance, no adjustment is to be made.

2. If the set point rpm is not correct, remove cover (1) and loosen locknut. Turn adjustment screw
(4) to adjust the set point to the midpoint of the tolerance.

3. When the set point is correct, check the high idle rpm. The high idle rpm must not be more
than the high limit of the tolerance.

Set Point Adjustment

(4) Adjustment screw.
If the high idle rpm is more than the high limit of the tolerance, check the governor spring and
flyweights. If the high idle rpm is less than the low limit of the tolerance, check for excess
parasitic loads and then the governor spring and flyweights.

Dashpot Screw Adjustment

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The dashpot adjustment screw does not normally need adjustment from the factory setting. If the
engine is slow to change rpm with a change in load, it is possible that the dashpot adjustment
screw is not adjusted correctly.

1. Turn dashpot adjustment screw (1) in (clockwise) until it stops.

2. Turn dashpot adjustment screw out (counterclockwise) 1/2 ± 1/4 turn.

Dashpot Screw Adjustment

(1) Dashpot adjustment screw.

Air Inlet And Exhaust System

Restriction Of Air Inlet And Exhaust
There will be a reduction of horsepower and efficiency of the engine if there is a restriction in the
air inlet or exhaust system.

Air flow through the air cleaner must not have a restriction of more than 762 mm (30 in.) of water
difference in pressure.

Back pressure from the exhaust (pressure difference measurement between exhaust outlet
elbow and atmosphere) must not be more than:

Engines with turbochargers ... 686 mm (27" H2O)

Engines without turbochargers ... 864 mm (34" H2O)

Measurement Of Pressure In Inlet Manifold

By checking the pressure in the inlet manifold the efficiency of an engine can be checked by
making a comparison with the information given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche. This test is used when there is a decrease of horsepower from the engine, yet there is no
real sign of a problem with the engine.

The correct pressure for the inlet manifold is given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche. Development of this information is done with these conditions: 746.7 mm (29.4 in.) of
mercury barometric pressure, 29°C (85°F) outside air temperature and 35 API rated fuel. Any
change from these conditions can change the pressure in the inlet manifold. Outside air that has
higher temperature and lower barometric pressure than given above will cause a lower
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horsepower and inlet manifold pressure measurement, than given in that Fuel Setting And
Related Information Fiche. Outside air that has a lower temperature and higher barometric
pressure will cause a higher horsepower and inlet manifold pressure measurement.

A difference in fuel rating will also change horsepower and the pressure in the inlet manifold. If
the fuel is rated above 35 API, pressure in the inlet manifold can be less than given in the Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche. If the fuel is rated below 35 API, the pressure in the inlet
manifold can be more than given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

NOTE: Be sure that the air inlet and exhaust do not have a restriction when making a check of
pressure in the inlet manifold.

6V9450 Engine Pressure Group

Use the 6V9450 Engine Pressure Group to check the pressure in the inlet manifold.

This tool group has a gauge to read pressure in the inlet manifold. Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8524 is with the tool group and gives information on the use of the group.

Location For Pressure Test

(A) Remove plug and install a tee for testing.

Location For Pressure Test

(A) Remove plug and install a tee for testing.

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Checking Aftercooler Operation

Use the 8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group to check the operation of the aftercooler.

Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8446 gives the procedures for using the 8T470 Thermistor
Thermometer Group.

8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group

Air To Air Aftercooler System

Visual Inspection
Inspect all air lines, hoses and gasket connections at each oil change. Make sure the constant
torque hose clamps are tight. Check welded joints for cracks and make sure all brackets are
tightened in position and are in good condition. Use compressed air to clean cooler core
blockage caused by debris or dust. Inspect the cooler core fins for damage or debris.

Pressure air can cause personal injury.

When using pressure air for cleaning, wear a protective face

shield, protective clothing and protective shoes.

NOTE: When air to air aftercooler system parts are repaired and/or replaced, a leak test is
recommended.

Air System Restriction

Pressure measurements should be taken at the turbocharger outlet and inlet manifold. When the
total pressure drop of the charged air system at maximum air flow exceeds 13.5 kPa (4 in. Hg),
the air lines and cooler core must be inspected for internal restriction and cleaned, repaired or
replaced as necessary.

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Turbocharger Failure

Pressure air can cause personal injury.

When using pressure air for cleaning, wear a protective face

shield, protective clothing and protective shoes.

The maximum air pressure must be below 205 kPa (30 psi) for
cleaning purposes.

If a turbocharger failure occurs, remove the air to air cooler core and flush internally with a
solvent that removes oil and other foreign substances. Shake cooler to eliminate any trapped
debris. Wash with hot, soapy water; rinse thoroughly with clean water; and blow dry with
compressed air in reverse direction of normal air flow. Carefully inspect the system to make sure
it is clean.

NOTICE

Do not use caustic cleaners or damage to the aftercooler core

will result.

Inlet Manifold Pressure

Normal inlet manifold pressure with high exhaust temperature can be caused by cooler core fin
blockage. Clean the cooler core fins, see Visual Inspection for the cleaning procedure to use.

Low inlet manifold pressure and high exhaust manifold temperature can be caused by any of the
conditions that follow:

1. A plugged air cleaner. Clean or replace the air cleaner as needed.

2. A blockage in the air lines between the air cleaner and turbocharger. All restrictions must be
removed.

3. Cooler core leakage. Pressure test the cooler core, see Aftercooler Core Leakage for the
correct procedure to use and repair or replace parts as needed.

4. Leakage from the pressure side of the induction system. Check and repair leaks.

5. Inlet air leak. Check for loose, missing and damaged fittings or plugs. Also check the air inlet
to cylinder head gaskets.

Aftercooler Core Leakage

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FT1984 Air to Air Aftercooler Test Group

(1) Coupler. (2) Chain. (3) Dust plugs. (4) Nipple. (5) Regulator and valve assembly. (6) Tee. (7) Relief valve.
A low power problem in the engine can be the result of aftercooler leakage. Low power, low
boost pressure, black smoke, and/or high exhaust temperature can be the result of an
aftercooler system leakage.

NOTICE

Remove all air leaks from the system to prevent engine damage.
In some operating conditions, the engine can pull a manifold
vacuum for short periods of time. A leak in the aftercooler or air
lines can let dirt and other foreign material into the engine and
cause rapid wear and/or damage to engine parts.

A large cooler core leak often can be found by making a visual inspection. To check for smaller
leaks, use the following procedure:

1. Disconnect the air pipes from the inlet and outlet side of the aftercooler core.

Air To Air Aftercooler

(8) Aftercooler. (9) Aftercooler air inlet.
2. Install couplers (1) and dust plugs (3) from the FT1984 Air to Air Aftercooler Test Group as
shown on each side of the aftercooler core. Installation of additional hose clamps on hump
hoses is recommended to prevent the hoses from bulging while the aftercooler core is being
pressurized.

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Dust plug chains (2) must be installed to the aftercooler core or

the radiator brackets to prevent possible injury while testing. Do
not stand in front of the dust plugs while testing.

Air To Air Aftercooler

(10) Air outlet. (11) Cylinder head.
3. Install regulator and valve assembly (5) on the outlet side of the aftercooler. Attach air supply.

NOTICE

Do not use more than 240 kPa (35 psi) air pressure or damage to
the aftercooler core can be the result.

4. Open air valve and pressurize the aftercooler to 205 kPa (30 psi). Shut off air supply.

5. Inspect all connections for air leakage.

6. System pressure should not drop more than 35 kPa (5 psi) in 15 seconds.

7. If the pressure drop is more than specified, use a solution of soap and water to check all areas
of possible leakage and look for air bubbles. Replace hoses or repair the aftercooler core as
needed.

To help prevent personal injury when the tooling is removed,

relieve all pressure in the system slowly by using air regulator
and valve assembly (5).

8. After testing, remove FT Tooling and connect air pipes on each side of the aftercooler.

Dynamometer Test

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Air to air aftercooled dynamometer tests, in hot ambient temperatures, can add a greater heat
load to the jacket water cooling system, therefore the jacket water cooling system temperature
must be monitored. Also, monitor the inlet air temperature as it may need a power correction
factor along with fuel API, fuel temperature and barometric pressure.

For engine dynamometer tests, use the FT1438 Dynamometer Testing Aftercooler. FT1438
provides an air to water aftercooler to control the inlet air temperature to 43°C (110°F).

Turbocharger
Every 7200 hours or if any unusual sound or vibration in the turbocharger is noticed, a quick
check of bearing condition can be made without disassembling the turbocharger. This can be
done by removing the piping from the turbocharger and inspecting the compressor impeller,
turbine wheel and compressor cover. Rotate the compressor and turbine wheel assembly by
hand and observe by feeling excess end play and radial clearance. The rotating assembly
should rotate freely with no rubbing or binding. If there is any indication of the impeller rubbing
the compressor cover or the turbine wheel rubbing the turbine housing, recondition the
turbocharger or replace with a new or rebuilt one.

End clearance is best checked with a dial indicator. Attach a dial indicator with the indicator point
on the end of the shaft. Move the shaft from end to end making note of the total indicator
reading.

Refer to the Specifications for the correct end play dimensions. If end play is more than the
maximum end play, rebuild or replace the turbocharger. End play less than the minimum end
play could indicate carbon buildup on the turbine wheel and should be disassembled for cleaning
and inspection.

Checking Turbocharger Rotating Assembly End Play (Typical Example)

A more reliable check of bearing condition can be made only when the turbocharger is
disassembled and the bearings, shaft journal and housing bore diameters can actually be
measured.

Crankcase (Crankshaft Compartment) Pressure

Pistons or piston rings that have damage can be the cause of too much pressure in the
crankcase. This condition will cause the engine to run rough. There will also be more than the
normal amount of fumes coming from the crankcase breather. This crankcase pressure can also
cause the element for the crankcase breather to have a restriction in a very short time. It can
also be the cause of oil leakage at gaskets and seals that would not normally have leakage.
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Normal crankcase pressure with a clean crankcase breather is 50.8 mm (2 in.) of water or less.

Exhaust Temperature

6V5000 Infrared Thermometer Group

Use the 6V5000 Infrared Thermometer Group to check exhaust temperature. Special Instruction,
Form No. SEHS8149 is with the tool group and gives instructions for the test procedure.

Compression
An engine that runs rough can have a leak at the valves, or have valves that need adjustment.
Use the test that follows for a fast and easy method to find a cylinder that has low compression,
or does not have good fuel combustion. Find the speed that the engine runs the roughest, and
keep the engine at this rpm until the test is finished. Loosen a fuel line nut at fuel injection pump
to stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line is found
that makes no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after the
test before the next fuel line nut is loosened. This test can also be an indication that the fuel
injection is wrong, so the cylinder will have to be checked thoroughly.

Cylinder Head
The cylinder head has valves, valve seat inserts, and valve guides that can be removed when
they are worn or have damage. Replacement of these components can be made with the tools
that follow.

Valves
Valve removal and installation is easier with use of the 5P1330 Valve Spring Compressor
Assembly and 5S1322 Valve Keeper Inserter.

Valve Seat Inserts

Tools needed to remove valve seat inserts are in the 6V4805 Valve Insert Puller Group. Special
Instruction, Form No. SMHS7935 gives an explanation for this procedure. The insert can be
more easily installed by lowering the temperature of the insert before installing it in the head.

Valve Guides
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Tools needed to install valve guides are: 7S8858 Driver Bushing and 7S8859 Driver. The
counterbore in the driver bushing installs the guide to the correct height. Use a 1P7450 Honing
Arrangement to make a finished bore in the valve guide after installing the guide in the head.
Special Instruction, Form No. SMHS7526 gives an explanation of this procedure. Grind the
valves after installing new valve guides.

Checking Valve Guide Bore

Use the 5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group to check the bore of the valve guides. Special
Instruction, Form No. GMG02562 gives complete and detailed instructions for use of the 5P3536
Valve Guide Gauge Group.

5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group

Valve Clearance
NOTE: Valve clearance is measured between the rocker arm and the valves.

NOTE: When the valve lash (clearance) is checked, adjustment is NOT NECESSARY if the
measurement is in the range given in the chart for Valve Clearance Check: Engine Stopped. If
the measurement is outside this range, adjustment is necessary. See the chart for Valve
Clearance Setting: Engine Stopped, and make the setting to the nominal (desired) specifications
in this chart.

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Valve Clearance

3306B Engine

Cylinder And Valve Identification

1. Put No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke. Make reference to Finding Top
Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston.

2. Make an adjustment to valve clearance on the intake valves for cylinders 1, 2 and 4. Make an
adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 1, 3, and 5.

3. Turn the flywheel 360° in the direction of engine rotation. This will put No. 6 piston at top
center (TC) on the compression stroke.

4. Make an adjustment to the valve clearance on the intake valve for cylinder 3, 5, and 6. Make
an adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

5. After valve adjustment is correct, tighten the nuts for the valve adjustment screws to 28 ± 4
N·m (22 ± 3 lb ft).

3304B Engines

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Cylinder And Valve Identification

1. Put No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke. Make reference to Finding Top
Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston.

2. Make an adjustment to the valve clearance on the intake valves for cylinders 1 and 2. Make
an adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 1 and 3.

3. Turn the flywheel 360° in the direction of engine rotation. This will put No. 4 piston at top
center (TC) on the compression stroke.

4. Make an adjustment to the valve clearance on the intake valves for cylinders 3 and 4. Make
an adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 2 and 4.

5. After valve adjustment is correct, tighten the nuts for the valve adjustment screws to 28 ± 4
N·m (22 ± 3 lb ft).

Valve Adjustment

Procedure For Measuring Camshaft Lobes

To find lobe lift, use the procedure that follows:

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A. Measure camshaft lobe height (B) of one exhaust and one intake lobe.

B. Measure base circle (C) of one exhaust and one intake lobe.

C. Subtract base circle (STEP B) from lobe height (STEP A). The difference is actual lobe lift (A).

D. Specified camshaft lobe lift (A) is 8.382 mm (.3300 in.).

Maximum permissible difference between actual lobe lift (STEP C) and specified lobe lift (STEP
D) is 0.25 mm (.010 in.).

Camshaft Lobe
(A) Lobe lift. (B) Lobe height. (C) Base circle.

Lubrication System
One of the problems in the list that follows will generally be an indication of a problem in the
lubrication system for the engine.

Too Much Oil ConsumptionOil Pressure Is LowOil Pressure Is HighToo Much Bearing
WearIncreased Oil TemperatureToo Much Oil Consumption

Oil Leakage on Outside of Engine

Check for leakage at the seals at each end of the crankshaft. Look for leakage at the oil pan
gasket and all lubrication system connections. Check to see if oil comes out of the crankcase
breather. This can be caused by combustion gas leakage around the pistons. A dirty crankcase
breather will cause high pressure in the crankcase, and this will cause gasket and seal leakage.

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Oil Leakage Into Combustion Area Of Cylinders

Oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders can be the cause of blue smoke. There are
four possible ways for oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders:

1. Oil leakage between worn valve guides and valve stems.

2. Worn or damaged piston rings, or dirty oil return holes.

3. Compression ring and/or intermediate ring not installed correctly.

4. Oil leakage past the seal rings in the impeller end of the turbocharger shaft.

Too much oil consumption can also be the result if oil with the wrong viscosity is used. Oil with a
thin viscosity can be caused by fuel leakage into the crankcase, or by increased engine
temperature.

Measuring Engine Oil Pressure

An oil pressure gauge that has a defect can give an indication of low oil pressure.

The 6V9450 Engine Pressure Group can be used to check engine oil pressure.

6V9450 Engine Pressure Group

This tool group has a gauge to read oil pressure in the engine. Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8524 is with the tool group and gives instructions for the test procedure.

1. Be sure that the engine is filled to the correct level with either SAE 10 or SAE 30 oil. If any
other viscosity of oil is used, the information in the engine oil pressure chart does not apply.

2. Remove oil pressure switch (1) and connect the 6V9450 Engine Pressure Group to the main
oil manifold at the location from which the oil pressure switch was removed.

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Oil Pressure Switch Location

(1) Oil pressure switch.

Work carefully around an engine that is running. Engine parts

that are hot, or parts that are moving, can cause personal injury.

3. Run the engine to get the engine oil temperature at 99°C (210°F).

NOTE: A 3°C (5°F) increase in temperature gives approximately 7 kPa (1 psi) decrease in
engine oil pressure.

NOTE: Make sure engine oil temperature does not go above 115° (239°F).

4. Keep the engine oil temperature constant. With the engine at the rpm from the chart, read the
pressure gauge. Make a comparison between the pressure reading on the test gauge and the
minimum permissible pressure from the Engine Oil Pressure Chart. If the pressure reading on
the test gauge is below the minimum permissible pressure, find the cause and correct it.
Operation of the engine with low oil pressure can be the cause of engine failure or of a reduction
in engine life.

NOTE: A record of engine oil pressure, kept at regular intervals, can be used as an indication of
possible engine problems or damage. If there is a sudden increase or decrease of 70 kPa (10
psi) in oil pressure, the engine should be inspected and the problem corrected.

Oil Pressure Is Low

Crankcase Oil Level
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Check the level of the oil in the crankcase. Add oil if needed. It is possible for the oil level to be
too far below the oil pump supply tube. This will cause the oil pump to not have the ability to
supply enough lubrication to the engine components.

Oil Pump Does Not Work Correctly

The inlet screen of the supply tube for the oil pump can have a restriction. This will cause
cavitation (low pressure bubbles suddenly made in liquids by mechanical forces) and a loss of oil
pressure. Air leakage in the supply side of the oil pump will also cause cavitation and loss of oil
pressure. If the bypass valve for the oil pump is held in the open (unseated) position, the
lubrication system cannot get to a maximum pressure. Oil pump gears that have too much wear
will cause a reduction in oil pressure.

Oil Filter Bypass Valve

If the bypass valve for the oil filter is held in the open position (unseated) because the oil filter
has a restriction, a reduction in oil pressure can result. To correct this problem, remove and
clean the bypass valve and bypass valve bore. Install a new Caterpillar oil filter to be sure that
no more debris makes the bypass valve stay open.

Too Much Clearance at Engine Bearings or Open Lubrication

System (Broken or Disconnected Oil Line or Passage)
Components that are worn and have too much bearing clearance can cause oil pressure to be
low. Low oil pressure can also be caused by an oil line or oil passage that is open, broken or
disconnected.

Piston Cooling Tubes (Jets)

When engine is operated, cooling jets direct oil toward the bottom of the piston to lower piston
and ring temperatures. If there is a failure of one of the jets, or it is bent in the wrong direction,
seizure of the piston will be caused in a very short time.

Use the 5P8709 Piston Tool Group to check and adjust the alignment of piston cooling jets.

Oil Pressure Is High

Oil pressure will be high if the bypass valve for the oil pump cannot move from the closed
position.

Too Much Bearing Wear

When some components of the engine show bearing wear in a short time, the cause can be a
restriction in an oil passage. A broken oil passage can also be the cause.

If the gauge for oil pressure shows enough oil pressure, but a component is worn because it
cannot get enough lubrication, look at the passage for oil supply to the component. A restriction

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in a supply passage will not let enough lubrication get to a component, and this will cause early
wear.

Increased Oil Temperature

Look for a restriction in the oil passages of the oil cooler. If the oil cooler has a restriction, the oil
temperature will be higher than normal when the engine is operated. The oil pressure of the
engine will not get low just because the oil cooler has a restriction.

Also check the oil cooler bypass valve to see if it is held in the open position (unseated). This
condition will let the oil through the valve instead of the oil cooler, and oil temperature will
increase.

Cooling System
This engine has a pressure type cooling system. A pressure type cooling system gives two
advantages. The first advantage is that the cooling system can have safe operation at a
temperature that is higher than normal boiling (steam) point of water. The second advantage is
that this type system prevents cavitation (low pressure bubbles suddenly made in liquids by
mechanical forces) in the water pump. With this type system, it is more difficult for an air or
steam pocket to be made in the cooling system.

The cause for increased engine temperature is generally because regular inspections of the
cooling system were not made. Make a visual inspection of the cooling system before a test is
made with test equipment.

Visual Inspection Of The Cooling System

1. Check coolant level in the cooling system.

2. Look for leaks in the system.

NOTE: Water pump seals. A small amount of coolant leakage across the surface of the "face-
type" seals is normal, and required, to provide lubrication for this type of seal. A hole is provided
in the water pump housing to allow this coolant/seal lubricant to drain from the pump housing.
Intermittent leakage of small amount of coolant from this hole is not an indication of water pump
seal failure. Replace the water pump seals only if a large amount of leakage, or a constant flow
of coolant is observed draining from the water pump housing.

3. Look for bent radiator fins. Be sure that air flow through the radiator does not have a
restriction.

4. Inspect the drive belts for the fan.

5. Check for damage to the fan blades.

6. Look for air or combustion gas in the cooling system.

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7. Inspect the filler cap and the surface that seals the cap. This surface must be clean.

Testing The Cooling System

Remember that temperature and pressure work together. When a diagnosis is made of a cooling
system problem, temperature and pressure must both be checked. Cooling system pressure will
have an effect on cooling system temperatures. For an example, look at the chart to see the
effect of pressure and height above sea level on the boiling (steam) point of water.

Boiling Point Of Water

Test Tools for Cooling System

The 8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group is used in the diagnosis of overheating (engine
hotter than normal) or overcooling (engine cooler than normal) problems. This group can be
used to check temperatures in several different parts of the cooling system. The testing
procedure is in Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8446.

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8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group

The 8T2700 Blowby/Air Flow Indicator Group is used to check the air flow through the radiator
core. The operating instructions are included with the group.

8T2700 Blowby/Air Flow Indicator Group

The 6V3121 Multitach Group is used to check the fan speed. The testing procedure is in Special
Instruction, Form No. SEHS7807.

6V3121 Multitach Group

Checking Pressure Cap

One cause for a pressure loss in the cooling system can be a bad seal on the radiator pressure
cap.

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DO NOT loosen the filler or pressure cap on a hot engine. Steam

or hot coolant can cause severe burns.

After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap and let the pressure out of the cooling system.
Then remove the pressure cap.

Typical Schematic Of Pressure Cap

(A) Sealing surface of cap and radiator.
Inspect the pressure cap carefully. Look for damage to the seal or to the surface that seals. Any
foreign material or deposits on the cap, seal or surface that seals, must be moved.

The 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group is used to test pressure caps and to
pressure check the cooling system for leaks.

DO NOT loosen the filler or pressure cap on a hot engine. Steam

or hot coolant can cause severe burns.

1. After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap to the first stop and let the pressure out of
the cooling system. Then remove the pressure cap.

2. Put the pressure cap on the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group.

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9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group

(A) Release Valve. (B) Adapter. (C) Hose.
3. Look at the gauge for the exact pressure that makes the pressure cap open.

4. Make a comparison of the reading on the gauge with the correct pressure at which the
pressure cap must open.

NOTE: The correct pressure that makes the pressure cap open is on the pressure cap and is
also in the Specifications.

5. If the pressure cap is bad, install a new pressure cap.

Testing Radiator and Cooling System for Leaks

To test the radiator and cooling system for leaks, use the procedure that follows:

DO NOT loosen the filler cap or pressure cap on a hot engine.

Steam or hot coolant can cause severe burns.

1. After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap to the first stop and let the pressure out of
the cooling system. Then remove the pressure cap.

2. Make sure the coolant is over the top of the radiator core.

3. Put the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group on the radiator.

4. Get the pressure reading on the gauge to 20 kPa (3 psi) more than the pressure on the
pressure cap.

5. Check the radiator for outside leakage.

6. Check all connections and hoses for the cooling system for outside leakage.

7. If you do not see any outside leakage and the pressure reading on the gauge is still the same
after 5 minutes, the radiator and cooling system does not have leakage. If the reading on the
gauge goes down and you do not see any outside leakage, there is leakage on the inside of the
cooling system. Make repairs as necessary.

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Water Temperature Regulator

1. Remove the regulator from the engine.

2. Heat water in a pan until the temperature is 90°C (195°F). This is the correct temperature for
opening the regulator. Move the water around in the pan to make it all be the same temperature.

3. Hang the regulator in the pan of water. The regulator must be below the surface of the water
and it must be away from the sides and bottom of the pan.

4. Keep the water at the correct temperature for 10 minutes.

5. After ten minutes, remove the regulator and immediately measure the distance the regulator
has opened. The distance must be a minimum of 9.53 mm (.375 in.).

6. If the distance is less than 9.53 mm (.375 in.), make a replacement of the regulator.

V-Belt Tension Chart

Basic Block
Piston Rings
This engine has piston grooves and rings of the KEYSTONE (taper) design. The 1U6431
Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge Group is available to check the top two ring grooves in the
piston. For correct use of the gauge group see the instruction card that is with the gauge group.

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Instructions For 1U6431 Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge Group

Pistons With Straight Sides in Ring Grooves

A 5P3519 Piston Ring Groove Gauge is available for checking ring grooves with straight sides.
For instructions on the use of the gauge, see the Guideline For Reusable Parts; Pistons, Form
No. SEBF8049.

Piston Ring Groove Gauge

Connecting Rods And Pistons

Use the 7S9470 Piston Ring Expander to remove or install piston rings.

Use the 5P3525 Piston Ring Compressor to install pistons into cylinder block.

Tighten the connecting rod nuts in the step sequence that follows:

1. Put 2P2506 Thread Lubricant on threads.

2. Tighten both nuts to 40 ± 4 N·m (30 ± 3 lb ft).

3. Put a mark on each nut and cap.

4. Tighten each nut 90° from the mark.

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The connecting rod bearings must fit tightly in the bore in the rod. If bearing joints or backs are
worn (fretted), check for bore size as this is an indication of wear because of looseness.

Connecting Rod And Main Bearings

Bearings are available with 0.25 mm (.010 in.), 0.51 mm (.020 in.) and 0.76 mm (.030 in.)
smaller inside diameter than the original size bearings. These bearings are for crankshafts that
have been "ground" (made smaller) than the original size.

Cylinder Liner Projection

The correct cylinder liner projection is important to prevent a leak between the liner, cylinder
head, and block. Check cylinder liner projection above the spacer plate as follows:

1. Be sure that the surfaces of the cylinder block, cylinder liner, and the spacer plate are clean.

2. Install the spacer plate gasket and spacer plate (4) on the cylinder block. Use S1589 Bolts (1)
with two 1S379 Washers on each bolt to hold the spacer plate to the cylinder block. Put two bolts
with washers on each side of the opening for the cylinder liner. Tighten the bolts evenly, in four
steps; 14 N·m (10 lb ft), 35 N·m (25 lb ft), 70 N·m (50 lb ft), and 95 N·m (70 lb ft).

NOTE: To keep from moving bolts and washers as each liner is checked install two bolts with
washers on each side of each cylinder liner, along the complete length of the spacer plate.

3. Install the cylinder liner without seals in the cylinder block. Put adapter plate (7) on the
cylinder liner as shown. Install crossbar (2) with 1D4595 Bolts (3), 2S736 Washers and 3H465
Plates (5) as shown. Tighten the bolts evenly, in four steps; 7 N·m (5 lb ft), 20 N·m (15 lb ft), 35
N·m (25 lb ft) and 70 N·m (50 lb ft). The measurement from the bottom of crossbar (2) to the
spacer plate, must be the same on both sides of the cylinder liner.

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4. Install the 1P5512 Contact Point on dial indicator (6). Put the dial indicator in the 1P2402
Gauge Body. To adjust the dial indicator to zero, put dial indicator and gauge body on the
1P5507 Gauge. Move the dial indicator until the hand moves 1/4 turn. Tighten bolt on body to
hold the dial indicator in this position. Turn the dial face until the zero is in alignment with the
hand.
PSP
202 -000B
10: 4/11/1 022A
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024 7
Measuring Cylinder Liner Projection Cat
erp
(1) S1589 Bolt with two 1S379 Washers. (2) Crossbar. (3) 1D4595 Bolt. (4) Spacer plate. (5) 3H465 Plates. (6) 1P2403
Dial Indicator. (7) 1P2394 Adapter Plate.
illa
r In
5. Measure the cylinder liner projection as close as possible to the four corners of the adapter

c.
plate on the liner. The liner projection must be 0.033 to 0.175 mm (.0012 to .0069 in.). The
difference between the four measurements must not be more than 0.05 mm (.002 in.). The
difference in the average cylinder liner projection of liners next to each other must not be more
than 0.05 mm (.002 in.). The maximum difference in the average projection for all cylinder liners
must not be more than 0.10 mm (.004 in.) for the 3306B Engine and 0.08 mm (.003 in.) for the
3304B Engine.

NOTE: If the liner projection changes from point to point around the liner, turn the liner to a new
position in the bore. If the liner projection is still not to specifications, move the liner to a different
bore.

6. When the cylinder liner projection is correct, put a temporary mark on the liner and the spacer
plate so at final installation the liner can be installed in the correct position.

Cylinder liner projection can be adjusted by the removal of material from (machining) the contact
face of the cylinder block with the use of 8S3140 Cylinder Block Counterboring Tool
Arrangement. The instructions for the use of the tool group are in Special Instruction, Form No.
FM055228.

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Cylinder Block
The bore in the block for main bearings can be checked with the main bearing caps installed
without bearings. Tighten the nuts holding the caps to the torque shown in the
SPECIFICATIONS. Alignment error in the bores must not be more than 0.08 mm (.003 in.).
Special Instruction, Form No. SMHS7606 gives instructions for checking alignment of the main
bearing bores. 1P3537 Dial Bore Gauge Group can be used to check the size of the bores.
Special Instruction, Form No. GMG00981 is with the group.

1P3537 Dial Bore Gauge Group

Flywheel And Flywheel Housing

Installing Ring Gear
Heat the ring gear to install it. Do not heat to more than 315°C (600°F). Install the ring gear so
the chamfer on the gear teeth are next to the starter pinion when the flywheel is installed.

Face Run Out (axial eccentricity) of the Flywheel Housing

If any method other than given here is used, always remember bearing clearance must be
removed to get correct measurements.

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8T5096 Dial Indicator Group Installed

Checking Face Runout Of The Flywheel Housing

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(A) Bottom. (B) Right side. (C) Top. (D) Left side.
1. Fasten a dial indicator to the crankshaft flange so the anvil of the indicator will touch the face
of the flywheel housing.

2. Put a force on the crankshaft toward the rear before the indicator is read at each point.

3. With dial indicator set at 0.0 mm (.000 in.) at location (A), turn the crankshaft and read the
indicator at locations (B), (C) and (D).

4. The difference between lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be
more than 0.38 mm (.015 in.), which is the maximum permissible face run out (axial eccentricity)
of the flywheel housing.

Bore Runout (radial eccentricity) of the Flywheel Housing

8T5096 Dial Indicator Group Installed

1. Fasten the dial indicator as shown so the anvil of the indicator will touch the bore of the
flywheel housing.

2. With the dial indicator in position at (C), adjust the dial indicator to "0" (zero). Push the
crankshaft up against the top of the bearing. Write the measurement for bearing clearance on
line 1 in column (C) in the Chart For Dial Indicator Measurements.

NOTE: Write the dial indicator measurements with their positive (+) and negative (-) notation
(signs). This notation is necessary for making the calculations in the chart correctly.

3. Divide the measurement from Step 2 by 2. Write this number on line 1 in columns (B) & (D).

4. Turn the crankshaft to put the dial indicator at (A). Adjust the dial indicator to "0" (zero).

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5. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (B). Write the measurements
in the chart.

Checking Bore Runout Of The Flywheel Housing

6. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (C). Write the measurement in
the chart.

7. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (D). Write the measurement in
the chart.

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8. Add lines I and II by columns.

9. Subtract the smaller number from the larger number in line III in columns (B) & (D). The result
is the horizontal eccentricity (out of round). Line III, column (C) is the vertical eccentricity.

10. On the graph for total eccentricity find the point of intersection of the lines for vertical
eccentricity and horizontal eccentricity.

11. If the point of intersection is in the range marked "Acceptable" the bore is in alignment. If the
point of intersection is in the ranged marked "Not Acceptable" the flywheel housing must be
changed.

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Graph For Total Eccentricity

Face Runout (axial eccentricity) of the Flywheel

1. Install the dial indicator as shown. Always put a force on the crankshaft in the same direction
before the indicator is read so the crankshaft end clearance (movement) is always removed.

Checking Face Runout Of The Flywheel

2. Set the dial indicator to read 0.0 mm (.000 in.).

3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90°.

4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not
be more than 0.15 mm (.006 in.), which is the maximum permissible face runout (axial
eccentricity) of the flywheel.

Bore Runout (radial eccentricity) of the Flywheel

1. Install the dial indicator (3) and make an adjustment of the universal attachment (4) so it
makes contact as shown.

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Checking Bore Runout Of The Flywheel

(1) 7H1945 Holding Rod. (2) 7H1645 Holding Rod. (3) 7H1942 Indicator. (4) 7H1940 Universal Attachment.
2. Set the dial indicator to read 0.0 mm (.000 in.).

3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90°.

4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not
be more than 0.15 mm (.006 in.), which is the maximum permissible bore runout (radial
eccentricity) of the flywheel.

5. Runout (eccentricity) of the bore for the pilot bearing for the flywheel clutch, must not exceed
0.13 mm (.005 in.).

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Checking Flywheel Clutch Pilot Bearing Bore

Electrical System
Test Tools For Electrical System

Most of the tests of the electrical system can be done on the engine. The wiring insulation must
be in good condition, the wire and cable connections must be clean and tight, and the battery
must be fully charged. If the on-engine test shows a defect in a component, remove the
component for more testing.

The service manual Testing And Adjusting Electrical Components, Form No. REG00636, has
complete specifications and procedures for the components of the starting circuit and the
charging circuit.

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6V4930 Battery Load Tester

The 6V4930 Battery Load Tester is a portable unit in a metal case for use under field conditions
and high temperatures. It can be used to load test all 6, 8 and 12V batteries. This tester has two
heavy-duty load cables that can easily be fastened to the battery terminals, and a load
adjustment knob on the front panel permits a current range up to a maximum of 700 amperes.
The tester also has a thermometer to show when the safe operating temperature limit of the unit
has been reached.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8268 for more complete
information for use of the 6V4930 Battery Loader Test.

8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter

The 8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter is a completely portable, self-contained instrument that
allows electrical current measurements to be made without breaking the circuit or disturbing the
insulation on conductors. A digital display is located on the ammeter for reading current directly
in a range from 1 to 1200 amperes. If an optional 6V6014 Cable is connected between this
ammeter and one of the digital multimeters, current readings of less than 1 ampere can then be
read directly from the display of the multimeter.

A lever is used to open the jaws over the conductor [up to a diameter of 19 mm (.75 in.)], and the
spring loaded jaws are then closed around the conductor for current measurement. A trigger
switch that can be locked in the ON or OFF position is used to turn on the ammeter. When the
turn-on trigger is released, the last current reading is held on the display for 5 seconds. This
allows accurate measurements to be taken in limited access areas where the digital display is
not visible to the operator. A zero control is provided for DC operation, and power for the
ammeter is supplied by batteries located inside the handle.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8420 for more information for use
of the 8T900 Clamp-on Ammeter.
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6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter

The 6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter is a completely portable, hand held instrument with a
digital display. This multimeter is built with extra protection against damage in field applications,
and is equipped with seven functions and 29 ranges. The 6V7070 Multimeter has an instant
ohms indicator that permits continuity checking for fast circuit inspection. It also can be used for
troubleshooting small value capacitors.

The 6V7800 Regular-duty Digital Multimeter (a low cost option to the Heavy-Duty Multimeter) is
also available; however, the 6V7800 Multimeter does not have the 10A range or the instant ohms
feature of the 6V7070 Multimeter.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7734 for more complete
information for use of the 6V7070 and 6V7800 Multimeters.

Battery

Never disconnect any charging unit circuit or battery circuit

cable from battery when the charging unit is operated. A spark
can cause an explosion from the flammable vapor mixture of
hydrogen and oxygen that is released from the electrolyte
through the battery outlets. Injury to personnel can be the result.

The battery circuit is an electrical load on the charging unit. The load is variable because of the
condition of the charge in the battery. Damage to the charging unit will result if the connections
(either positive or negative) between the battery and charging unit are broken while the charging
unit is in operation. This is because the battery load is lost and there is an increase in charging
voltage. High voltage will damage, not only the charging unit, but also the regulator and other
electrical components.

Use the 6V4930 Battery Load Tester, the 8T900 Clamp-On Ammeter and the 6V7070 Multimeter
to load test a battery that does not hold a charge when in use. See Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8268 for the correct procedure and specifications to use.

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Charging System
The condition of charge in the battery at each regular inspection will show if the charging system
operates correctly. An adjustment is necessary when the battery is constantly in a low condition
of charge or a large amount of water is needed (more than one ounce of water per cell per week
or per every 100 service hours).

When it is possible, make a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator on the engine, and
use wiring and components that are a permanent part of the system. Off-engine (bench) testing
will give a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator operation. This testing will give an
indication of needed repair. After repairs are made, again make a test to give proof that the units
are repaired to their original condition of operation.

Before the start of on-engine testing, the charging system and battery must be checked as
shown in the Steps that follow:

1. Battery must be at least 75% (1.225 Sp. Gr.) fully charged and held tightly in place. The
battery holder must not put too much stress on the battery.

2. Cables between the battery, starter and engine ground must be the correct size. Wires and
cables must be free of corrosion and have cable support clamps to prevent stress on battery
connections (terminals).

3. Leads, junctions, switches and panel instruments that have direct relation to the charging
circuit must give correct circuit control.

4. Inspect the drive components for the charging unit to be sure they are free of grease and oil
and have the ability to operate the charging unit.

Alternator Regulator Adjustment (Delco-Remy)

When an alternator is charging the battery too much or not enough, an adjustment can be made
to the charging rate of the alternator. Make reference to the Specifications section to find all
testing specifications for the alternators and regulators.

To adjust the voltage setting, use the procedures that follow:

Delco-Remy 12V 60A (7G7889 Alternator),

Delco-Remy 24V 35A (3T6352 Alternator),

Delco-Remy 24V 35A (5N5692 Alternator)

No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on the alternator regulators. If rate of
charge is not correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.

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6N9294 Alternator
Delco-Remy 12V 75A (5S6698 Alternator)

To adjust the voltage setting on these alternators, use the procedure that follows:

5S6698 Alternator
(1) Adjustment screw under plug (earlier regulator). (2) End plate.
1. Remove end plate (2) and cover (3) from the alternator.

Location Of Cover
(3) Cover.
2. Remove the rubber sealant from the adjustment screw (4).

3. Use a voltmeter to measure alternator voltage output.

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Alternator Regulator
(4) Voltage adjustment screw. (5) Field wire. (6) Transistor pins.
4. Turn adjustment screw (4) counterclockwise to lower the voltage setting. Turn adjustment
screw (4) clockwise to raise the voltage setting.

5. Put 3S6252 Rubber Sealant on adjustment screw (4) and install cover (3) and end plate (2).

NOTICE

Make certain that field wire (5) is not located over transistor pins
(6). The pins can make a hole in the insulation of the wire.

Delco-Remy 24V 60A (4N3986 Alternator),

Delco-Remy 32V 60A (4N3987 Alternator)

To make an adjustment to the voltage output, pull out voltage adjustment cap (1). Turn the cap
90° and install it again into the alternator. The voltage adjustment cap has four positions: HI, LO,
and two positions between the high and the low setting.

The 4N3987 Alternator can be adjusted for either 30 or 32 volts. A replacement alternator
shipped from the factory will be adjusted for 32V systems. Where the alternator is to be used in a
30V system, pull out voltage adjustment cap (1) and change to position 3.

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Cap Type Regulator Adjustment

(1) Voltage adjustment cap.
No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on these alternator regulators. If the
rate of charge (ampere output) is within 10 amperes of rated output (marked on the alternator
frame) the regulator is good. An over or under charged battery condition can be corrected
sometimes by an adjustment to the voltage as described above. If rate of charge is not correct, a
replacement of the regulator is necessary.

Bosch 24V 37A (7N9720 Alternator)

The solid state regulator used with the Bosch Alternator is totally enclosed and non-adjustable. If
the rate of charge is not correct a replacement of the regulator is necessary.

7N9720 Bosch Alternator

(1) Regulator. (2) Cover.
Motorola Alternator Regulator (Separate From Alternator)

When the alternator is either charging the battery too much or not enough, an adjustment can be
made to the alternator charging rate. To make an adjustment to the voltage output, remove the
cap (1) from the alternator regulator and change the regulator adjustment with a screwdriver.

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Alternator Regulator (Motorola)

(1) Cap for adjustment screw.
To increase the voltage, turn the adjustment screw clockwise. The adjustment screw under the
cap (1) has five positions (number 1 is the last position clockwise).

Motorola Alternator Regulator (6T9445),

Bosch Alternator Regulator (9G7567),

Nippondenso Alternator Regulator (7T2798)

Motorola Regulator (6T9445)

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Bosch Regulator (9G7567)

Nippondenso Regulator (7T2793)

No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on these alternator regulators. If rate
of charge is not correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.

Delco-Remy Alternator; Pulley Nut Tightening

Tighten nut that holds the pulley to a torque of 100 ± 7 N·m (75 ± 5 lb ft) with the tools shown.

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Tools To Tighten Alternator Pulley Nut

(1) 5P7425 Torque Wrench. (2) 8S1588 Adapter (1/2 in. female to 3/8 in. male). (3) FT1697 Socket. (4) 8H8517
Combination Wrench (1 1/8 in.). (5) FT1696 Wrench.

Starting System
Use the multimeter in the DCV range to find starting system components which do not function.

Move the start control switch to activate the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid operation can be
heard as the pinion of the starter motor is engaged with the ring gear on the engine flywheel.

If the solenoid for the starter motor will not operate, it is possible that the current from the battery
did not get to the solenoid. Fasten one lead of the multimeter to the connection (terminal) for the
battery cable on the solenoid. Put the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading is an
indication that there is a broken circuit from the battery. More testing is necessary when there is
a voltage reading on the multimeter.

The solenoid operation also closes the electric circuit to the motor. Connect one lead of the
multimeter to the solenoid connection (terminal) that is fastened to the motor. Put the other lead
to a good ground. Activate the starter solenoid and look at the multimeter. A reading of battery
voltage shows the problem is in the motor. The motor must be removed for further testing. A zero
reading on the multimeter shows that the solenoid contacts do not close. This is an indication of
the need for repair to the solenoid or an adjustment to be made to the starter pinion clearance.

Make a test with one multimeter lead fastened to the connection (terminal) for the small wire at
the solenoid and the other lead to the ground. Look at the multimeter and activate the starter
solenoid. A voltage reading shows that the problem is in the solenoid. A zero reading is an
indication that the problem is in the start switch or the wires for the start switch.

Fasten one multimeter lead to the start switch at the connection (terminal) for the wire from the
battery. Fasten the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading indicates a broken circuit from
the battery. Make a check of the circuit breaker and wiring. If there is a voltage reading, the
problem is in the start switch or in the wires for the start switch.

A starter motor that operates too slow can have an overload because of too much friction in the
engine being started. Slow operation of the starter motor can also be caused by a short circuit,
loose connections and/or dirt in the motor.

Pinion Clearance Adjustment (Delco-Remy)

When the solenoid is installed, make an adjustment of the pinion clearance. The adjustment can
be made with the starter motor removed.

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Connection For Checking Pinion Clearance

(1) Connector from MOTOR terminal on solenoid to motor. (2) SW terminal. (3) Ground terminal.
1. Install the solenoid without connector (1) from the MOTOR connections (terminal) on solenoid
to the motor.

2. Connect a battery, of the same voltage as the solenoid, to the terminal (2), marked SW.

3. Connect the other side of the battery to ground terminal (3).

4. Connect for a moment, a wire from the solenoid connection (terminal) marked MOTOR to the
ground connection (terminal). The pinion will shift to crank position and will stay there until the
battery is disconnected.

Pinion Clearance Adjustment

(4) Shaft nut. (5)) Pinion. (6) Pinion clearance.
5. Push the pinion toward the commutator end to remove free movement.

6. Pinion clearance (6) must be 8.3 to 9.9 mm (.33 to .39 in.).

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7. To adjust pinion clearance, remove plug and turn nut (4).

Pinion Clearance Adjustment (Prestolite)

There are two adjustments on this type motor. They are end play for the armature and pinion
clearance.

End Play For The Armature

The correct end play for the armature is 0.13 to 0.76 mm (.005 to .030 in.). The adjustment is
made by adding or removing thrust washers on the commutator end of the armature shaft.

Pinion Clearance Adjustment

Connections For Adjustment Of The Pinion Clearance

(1) Stud.
1. To adjust the pinion distance, connect the 24V solenoid to a 12 volt battery (12V solenoid to a
6 volt battery) as shown. For a short moment, connect a wire from the "motor" stud of the
solenoid to the stud at (1) in the commutator end. This moves the solenoid and drive into the
cranking position.

Disconnect the wire.

NOTE: The drive is in the cranking position until the battery is disconnected.

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Pinion Clearance Adjustment

(2) Adjustment nut. (3) Distance.
2. Push the drive toward the commutator end of the motor to eliminate any slack movement in
the linkage and measure the distance between the outside edge of the drive sleeve and the
thrust washer. The distance (3) must be 0.51 to 1.27 mm (.020 to .050 in.).

3. Remove the plug. Turn the adjustment nut (2) in or out as necessary to get this distance.

4. Install the plug.

Air Starting System

Pressure Regulating Valve

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Pressure Regulating Valve (Typical Illustration)

(1) Adjustment screw. (2) Regulator inlet. (3) Regulator outlet.
To check and adjust the pressure regulating valve, use the procedure that follows:

1. Drain the line to the pressure regulating valve or drain the air storage tank.

2. Disconnect the regulator from the starter control valve.

3. Connect an 8M2885 Pressure Gauge to regulator outlet (3).

4. Put air pressure in the line or tank.

5. Check the pressure.

6. Adjust the pressure regulating valve as shown in Chart For Air Pressure Setting.

7. Remove the air pressure from the line or tank.

8. Remove the 8M2885 Pressure Gauge and connect the air pressure regulator to the line to the
air starter motor.

Each engine application will have to be inspected to get the most acceptable starting results.
Some of the factors that affect regulating valve pressure setting are: attachment loads pulled by
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engine during starting, ambient temperature conditions, oil viscosity, capacity of air reservoir, and
condition of engine (new or worn).

The advantage of setting the valve at the higher pressures is increased torque for starter motor
and faster rotation of engine. The advantage of setting the valve at the lower pressures is longer
time of engine rotation for a given reservoir capacity of supply air.

Lubrication
Always use an air line lubricator with these air starter motors.

For temperatures above 0°C (32°F), use a good quality SAE 10 motor oil.

For temperatures below 0°C (32°F), use diesel fuel.

To maintain the efficiency of the starter motor, flush it at regular intervals. Pour approximately 0.5
liter (1 pt.) of diesel fuel into the air inlet of the starter motor and operate the motor. This will
remove the dirt, water and oil mixture (gummy coating) from the vanes of the motor.

Air Starting Motor (Ingersoll-Rand, Size 150 BMP)

The cylinder (12) must be assembled over the rotor (15) and on the front end plate (16) so the
dowel hole (12B) and the inlet passages (12A) for the air are as shown in the rear view
illustration of the cylinder and rotor. If the installation is not correct, the starter drive (42) will turn
in the wrong direction.

Rear View Of The Cylinder And Rotor For Clockwise Rotation

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(12) Cylinder. (12A) Air inlet passages. (12B) Dowel hole. (15) Rotor.
Tighten the bolts (6) of the rear cover in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are
tight 25 to 35 N·m (20 to 25 lb ft).

Put a thin layer of lubricant on the lip of the seal (29) and on the outside of the collar (35), for
installation of drive shaft (34). After installation of the shaft through the cover (28) check the lip of
the grease seal (29). It must be turned correctly toward the drive gear (25). If the shaft turned the
seal lip in the wrong direction, remove the shaft and install again. Use a tool with a thin point to
turn the seal lip in the correct direction.

Air Starter (Ingersoll-Rand)

(6) Bolt. (12) Cylinder. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (22) Gear case. (25) Drive gear. (28) Gear case cover. (29)
Grease seal. (32) Bolt. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (45) Drive housing. (49) Air
inlet. (50) Deflector (air outlet). (51) Mounting flange on the drive housing.
Tighten the bolts (32) of the drive housing in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts
are tight 11.3 N·m (100 lb in).

Check the motor for correct operation. Connect an air hose to the motor inlet (49) and make the
motor turn slowly. Look at the drive pinion (42) from the front of the drive housing (45). The
pinion must turn clockwise.

Connect an air hose to the small hole with threads in the drive housing (45), nearer the gear
case (22). When a little air pressure goes to the drive housing, the drive pinion (42) must move
forward to the engaged position. Also, the air must get out through the other hole with threads
nearer the mounting flange (51).

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Components Of The Air Starter (Ingersoll-Rand, Size 150 BMP, Model C Or E)

(1) Motor housing cover. (2) Plug. (3) Plug. (3A) Plug. (6) Bolt (cap screw). (7) Lockwasher. (8) Gasket. (9) Rotor rear
bearing. (10) Bearing retainer. (11) Rear end plate. (12) Cylinder. (13) Dowel. (14) Rotor vane. (15) Rotor. (16) Front
end plate. (17) Rotor front bearing. (18) Motor housing. (19) Gear case gasket. (20) Rotor pinion. (21) Rotor pinion
retainer. (22) Gear case. (23) Bearing ejecting washer. (24) Rear bearing for the drive shaft. (25) Drive gear. (25A)
Thrust washer. (26) Key for the drive gear. (27) Front bearing for the drive shaft. (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease
seal for the drive shaft. (30) Cover seal. (31) Piston seal. (32) Bolt. (33) Lockwasher. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft
collar. (36) Piston. (36A) Piston ring. (37) Shift ring. (38) Shift ring retainer. (39) Shift ring spacer. (40) Piston return
spring. (41) Return spring seat. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (43) Lockwasher. (44) Bushing for the bolts. (45) Drive
housing. (46) Drive housing bushing. (47) Oiler felt for the bushing. (48) Oiler plug.

Ingersoll-Rand, Size SS350

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Air Starter (Ingersoll-Rand

(5) Cover Bolts. (7) End Plate. (16) Retaining nut. (22) Retaining bolt. (28) Seal. (44) Drive shaft bolt. (47) Drive pinion
bolt. (54) Drive housing bolts.
During assembly put two pieces of 0.10 mm (.004 in.) shim stock between rotor body and end
plate (7). Tighten retaining nut (16) until there is a slight drag on the shim stock. Tighten the
clamping screw in the retaining nut (16). The clearance between the rotor assembly and the end
plate is 0.05 to 0.13 mm (.002 to .005 in.).

Install four cover bolts (5) and tighten to a torque of 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

Tighten retainer bolt (22) to a torque of 68 N·m (50 lb ft).

Install gear case seal (28) lip side first, into the small bore of the gear case. Put a thin layer of
lubricant on the lip type seal and all O-ring seals.

Install drive shaft bolt (44) and tighten to a torque of 75 N·m (55 lb ft).

Install four drive housing bolts (54). Tighten to a torque of 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

Tighten the drive pinion bolt (47) to a torque of 75 N·m (55 lb ft).

After assembly, turn the drive pinion by hand in the direction of starter rotation. The clutch should
ratchet smoothly with a slight "clicking" action. Attach a hose to the "IN" port and apply 345 kPa
(50 psi) air pressure. The drive pinion should move outward and air will escape from the "OUT"
port. Plug the "OUT" port and apply 1034 kPa (150 psi) air pressure.

The distance measured from the face of the drive pinion to the face of the mounting flange
should be 70.5 mm (2.77 in.). Remove pressure from the "IN" port. The measured distance
should be 46.3 mm (1.82 in.).

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Connect a 9 mm (3/8 in.) inlet hose at 620 kPa (90 psi). The starter should run smoothly. Plug
the exhaust port and apply 207 kPa (30 psi) air pressure. Immerse starter in a non-flammable
solvent for 30 seconds. If the starter is properly sealed, no air bubbles will appear.

Components Of The Air Starter (Ingersoll-Rand, Size SS350)

(1) Motor housing cover. (2) Plug. (3) Nameplate. (4) Screw. (5) Bolt (cap screw). (6) Plug. (7) Rear end plate. (8) O-
ring seal. (9) Cylinder housing kit. (10) Dowel. (11) Front end plate. (12) O-ring seal. (13) Rotor. (14) Rear rotor
bearing. (15) O-ring seal. (16) Retaining nut. (17) Retaining nut cover. (18) Front rotor bearing. (19) Wave washers.
(20) Rotor vanes. (21) Rotor pinion. (22) Bolts. (23) Gear case. (24) O-ring seal. (25) Drive gear. (26) Drive gear
bearing. (27) Retaining ring. (28) Gear case seal. (29) Retaining ring. (31) Piston kit. (32) O-ring seal. (33) Piston
bearing. (34) Retaining ring. (35) Clutch jaw kit. (36) Retaining ring. (37) Clutch springs. (38) Clutch spring cup. (39)
Piston return springs. (40) Return spring seat. (41) Drive shaft. (42) Drive shaft spacer. (43) Drive shaft washer. (44)
Bolt. (45) Drive shaft collar. (46) Drive pinion. (47) Bolt. (48) Drive housing kit. (49) Drive housing seal. (50) Drive
housing bearing. (51) O-ring seal. (52) Drive housing washer. (53) Drive housing gasket. (54) Bolts.

Hydraulic Starting System

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SEN 6:03+
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© 2 R279 01:00
To avoid personal injury, DO NOT disconnect oil lines or remove
plugs from the system until the oil pressure has been released.
The system can have 20 700 kPa (3000 psi) pressure. After all

024 7
the system pressure is released, the accumulator still can have
11 200 kPa (1625 psi) pressure. DO NOT work on the

Cat
accumulator, unless you have the correct service tools and

erp
information.

illa
Service or service information is available from the manufacturer for servicing the accumulator.
r In
PSP-000B022A
2024/11/13 c.
09:51:51+01:00
SENR27970002
© 2024 Caterpillar Inc.

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