Interna onal Academic Research Consor um Journals (IARCJ)

Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

ISSN: 2360-9317. Volume 8, Issue 5
PP 1-31, October, 2024
DOI: 427251-39265-0851
arcnjournals@gmail.com
h ps://arcnjournals.org

EXTRACTION, APPLICATION AND ASSESSMENT OF THE

FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DYES FROM TURMERIC PLANT
(CURCUMA LONGA) AND ITS EFFECT ON COTTON WOVEN
FABRICS

Inyom, R. M; Oduns, C. P; Ofoegbu, O and Akpan, E.A.

Department of Home Science and Management, Joseph Sarwuan Tarka, University
Makurdi, Benue State

Abstract: This study assessed the extrac on, applica on and fastness proper es of dyes from Turmeric plant
and its effect on co on woven fabric using Alum and Potash as mordants. The specific objec ves of the study
were to; determine the yield of turmeric dyes extracted with n-hexane, Methanol and water; examine the
nature of the chromophores and auxochromes present in turmeric dyes by ultra-valent (UV) visible and Furrier
transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy respec vely; assess the effect of Alum and Potash mordants on the
colour fastness of co on woven fabric dyed with turmeric plant and to evaluate the acceptability of co on
woven fabrics dyed with natural dyes from turmeric plants by panelist. The study adopted an experimental
research design; Microwave extrac on technique was used to extract the natural dyes from dried turmeric
roots. The natural dyes were applied to samples of co on woven fabric followed by determina on of the wash
and light fastness proper es of the prototypes. A panelist consis ng of 15 members rated the organolep c
a ributes on a five (5) point scale. UV-visible spectroscopic showed that methanol extracted the polar and
non-polar colouring ma ers in the turmeric dye with bands at 288nm, 310nm and 420nm. (FTIR) showed
several stretches which correspond to the curcumin structure present in turmeric. The dyes extracted were also
in the colour range of yellow to orange and gave several effects with the mordants used. Findings revealed
that turmeric dye extracted with methanol and mordanted with alum has the highest mean of 5.67 when
exposed to sunlight and washing. The study therefore concludes that turmeric dye can be a good natural
alterna ve for co on fabric dyeing with good colorfastness proper es. Based on the findings of this research
work, the study recommends that; more advanced spectroscopic techniques such as nuclear magne c
resonance (NMR) should be used to characterize turmeric dyes and the dyes can be applied on tex le
produc on, cosme cs and drugs. Alum and Potash should be used as mordant to get the best in terms of both
wash and light fastness of co on fabric.

Keywords: Turmeric plant, co on woven fabric, Alum, Potash, mordants

1.0 INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background to the study
The awareness of the importance of natural dyes has made it more relevant worldwide in the
context of increasing environmental consciousness (Farell, 2012). The non-toxic,
biodegradable and eco-friendly proper es of natural dyes made them exceedingly popular
amongst scien sts and industrialists. Produc on of synthe c dyes has been predominantly
dependent on the petrochemical source and some synthe c dyes contain toxic or carcinogenic
amines which are not eco-friendly (Punra anasin, et al., 2014). The harmful effects of
synthe c dye and chemicals used in dyeing have brought about the alterna ve prepara on of
dye using natural sources Selvi et al., (2014). This is mainly a ributed to strict environmental
standards set by many countries to avoid the health hazards associated with synthe c dyes
used in tex les. Recently, most of the commercial dyers and tex le export houses have started
re-looking to the maximum possibili es of using natural dyes for dyeing and prin ng of
different tex les for targe ng a niche market. Natural dyes produce very uncommon, soothing
and so shades as compared to synthe c dyes. On the other hand, synthe c dyes, which are
widely available at an economical price and produce a wide variety of colours, some mes
cause skin allergy and other harmfulness to the human body, produce toxicity/chemical
hazards during their synthesis, release undesirable/hazardous/toxic chemicals etc. For
successful commercial use of natural dyes for any par cular fibre, the appropriate and
standardized techniques for dyeing for that par cular fibre-natural dye system need to be
adopted to obtain newer shades with acceptable colour fastness behaviour and reproducible
colour yield.

Plant source means any part of the plant; wood, root, leaf, bark, twig, flower, fruit and seed.
Our surroundings have various types of trees; shrubs, small trees and large trees. Every tree
is also planted or cul vated in our surroundings not only for shade and ornamental purposes
but also for other uses, such as buildings, paper, medicines, fuel, adhesives, plants, inks,
tex les, etc. Natural dyes have been used as a means to colour tex les for centuries. All the
dyes un l the la er half of the nineteenth century were made of different parts of plants and
animals. Natural dyes are deep and so in colour shades when compared with synthe c dyes.
And they are useful for human health because they have an microbial, insec cidal and
healthy proper es which are due to the origin of them extracted from plants. Most natural
dyes are non-substan ve dyes, which mean that they have very li le colouring power within
themselves and require the aid of mordants, to penetrate the yarn or fibre. Nowadays, most
natural dyes use chemical mordants such as alum, copper sulphate, iron or chrome. Charus
and Gupta (2012), described a mordant as an element that quickens the chemical reac on
taking place between a fibre and a dye. Mordant helps to open up the fibre to enable the dye
to be absorbed and improve the fastness of the dye on the fibre. They also deepen the shade
of dye and can change the final colour giving rise to a new colour. The applica on of dye to a
tex le with which the dye does not combine readily can some mes be improved by using a
mordant. Some mordants are heavy metals such as chrome and are destruc ve to fibre and
toxic to the skin. Aluminium sulphate (alum), ferrous sulphate and other acidifying dye-fixing
agents including tannic and citric acids act as an intermediary between fibre and basic dye
Charus, et, al. (2012).Colour fastness is the ability of a dye to resist fading or staining caused
by sunlight, washing, perspira on (dilute acids and alkalis), crocking or rubbing and other
organic solvents used in laundering and dry-cleaning (Anyakoha 2017). Natural dyes are
known for their use in the colouring of food substrate, leather, and wood as well as natural
fibres like wool, silk, co on and flax as major areas of applica on since ancient mes.

Presently, the global interest in natural dye has increased tremendously. Natural dyes perform
very crucial educa onal, economic, pharmacological, sociocultural, poli cal, religious as well
as psychological roles. They are highly commended for their health and environmental
benefits over some synthe c dyes which are toxic, non-biodegradable and carcinogenic.
Natural dyes are also valued for the preserva on of tradi onal dyeing arts and cra s. The very
high demand for safe dyes in sustainable supply to meet the ever-increasing volume required
in the wood, food (Obadina and Oyewole, 2007), paper and photography industries,
pharmacology (Chenghaiah et al., 2010; Owoade et al., 2015), educa onal ins tu ons
(Spenser, 2011; Bassey et al., 2012), homes, leather and leather product, tex les and clothing
industries (Onwualu, 2006; Jothi, 2008), requires more research and development efforts in
sourcing dyes from natural sources. No fabric dyeing or prin ng can be successfully achieved
without a sustainable supply of quality dyes. Globally, the clothing and tex le sector has
played major roles in employment and income genera on for many na ons. In Nigeria, for
instance, within the past 15 years, there were up to 180 func onal tex le mills in the country
employing about 800,000 people. The available report showed that out of 13 subsectors in
the manufacturing sector, the tex le sector comprising co on tex les and synthe c fabrics
con nued to account for a significant propor on of the overall growth of manufacturing
produc on (Central Bank of Nigeria (CBN) Annual report, 1995). According to Kumaresan et
al., (2012), Natural turmeric dye has no side effects on the skin and it has no harmful effect
on the environment also. This study, therefore, focused on the assessment of the fastness
characteris cs of turmeric dye on co on using Alum and Potash as mordants.
1.2 Statement of the problem
The harmful effects of synthe c dye and chemicals used in dyeing have brought about the
alterna ve prepara on of dye using natural materials Selvi et al., (2014). This is mainly
a ributed to strict environmental standards set by many countries to avoid the health hazards
associated with synthe c dyes used in tex les (Fithriyah, 2013). Despite posi ve contribu ons
of synthe c dyes to the educa onal and health sectors of the economy, recent studies on dyes
have proven that it causes cancer, skin irrita on and pollu on of environment thereby making
it unfriendly. Also, there has been a problem of under-u liza on of local plants with poten als
of yielding dyes for fabric coloura on within Nigeria especially Benue State.The high demand
for safe dyes in sustainable supply to meet the ever-increasing volume required in the
photography industries, tex les industries and homes has been a great challenge. Thus
making this research more relevant and mely.
1.3 Objec ves of the study
The main objec ve of the study was to assess the fastness characteris cs of Tumeric dyes on
co on fabric using Alum and Potash as mordants. The Specific Objec ves of the study were
to
i. determine the yield of turmeric dyes extracted with n-hexane, Methanol and water
ii. examine the nature of the chromophores and auxochromes present in turmeric dyes
by UV visible and FTIR spectroscopy respec vely
iii. assess the effects of Alum and Potash mordants on the colour fastness of co on fabric
dyed with turmeric plant
iv. evaluate the acceptability of co on fabrics dyed with natural dyes from turmeric
plants by panelist.
This study will benefit turmeric farmers by crea on of new markets and addi onal source of
income.it will also benefit tex le manufacturers by reduced reliance on synthe c dyes and
chemicals so as to meet the growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products. About
healthcare sector, it will be of help by maintaining hygiene, an microbial, an bacterial, an -
inflamatory proper es and prevent the spread of infec ons. Finally, consumers will reduced
environmental impact of tex le produc on, and provision of healthier and safer clothing
op ons.
2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW
This sec on deals with the theore cal framework, conceptual framework and the review of
related empirical studies.
2.1 Theore cal Framework
2.1.1 Chromophore Auxochrome Theory
This theory was propounded by Otto Witt in (1876). His emphasis was to correlate colour with
molecular structure. According to him, a dye consists of a chromophore group and a salt-
forming group called an anchoring group. He further speculated that coloured compounds
were the result of a grouping of atoms and so he called it chromophore. Otto Witt established
that by adding the auxochromophore, the dye could stick to a piece of fabric (Fathi, 2019).
The researcher adopt this chromphore Auxochrome theory because it is most suitable for the
study as it treats the variables of the dye components.
2.1.2 Theory of Natural dyes
According to Vankar (2017), natural dyes are defined, as elements of natural resources, and
these dyes are generally classified as a plant, animal, mineral, and microbial dyes based on
their source of origin, although plants are the major sources of natural dyes. Natural dyes per
se are sustainable as they are renewable and biodegradable. The experience with natural
dyeing has given an insight to explore plants in the neighbourhood. Finding fibre colours in
plants that grow easily and fast has led to a new world of fibre colours that give exo c shades.
These natural colours have richness and lustre that synthe cs can never a ain. It has become
a common misconcep on that natural dyes only produce beiges and browns and other
washed-out shades. In reality, vibrant, fast natural colours can be produced, which are
comparable with and o en surpass the colours of synthe cs. Apart from the sources of these
dyes, it is perhaps the commitment of those propaga ng them and the near clinical efficiency
with which dye is extracted, produced, and used, which is responsible for the unique nature
of natural dyeing and producing stable coloura on.
2.2 Conceptual Framework
2.2.1 Concept of Tumeric
Turmeric (Curcuma longa) is a plant that belongs to the ginger family and is widely used as a
spice in cooking, tradi onal medicine, and cosme c products. Turmeric is widely available,
making it an a rac ve source of natural dye. A study by El-Nagar et al., (2016) found that
turmeric dye was more cost-effec ve than synthe c dyes for coloring co on fabrics. The
ac ve compounds in turmeric that are responsible for its color, taste, and health benefits are
called curcuminoids, which include curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and
bisdemethoxycurcumin. Curcumin is the most abundant and biologically ac ve curcuminoid,
and it is responsible for the bright yellow color of turmeric (Sahoo et al. 2021).In addi on to
curcuminoids, turmeric also contains other pigments that contribute to its color, such as
turmerone, atlantone, and zingiberene. These pigments are found in the essen al oil frac on
of turmeric and are responsible for its aroma and flavor (Kocaadam & Şanlier, 2017).Turmeric
is therefore, a natural source of dye that is non-toxic and biodegradable. It is also effec ve in
coloring co on and silk fabrics without causing any adverse environmental effects.
2.2.2. Concept of Colour Fastness Proper es of Natural Dyes
Colour fastness is the resistance of a material to change in any of its colour characteris cs or
extent of transfer of its colourants to adjacent white materials in touch or both for different
environmental and use condi ons or treatments like washing, dry cleaning etc or exposure to
different agency heat, light etc. Fading means changes in the colour with or without loss of
depth of shade for exposure to par cular environment/agency/treatments either by
lightening or darkening the shades. Bleeding is the transfer of colour to a secondary material
in contact with accompanying white fibre material of similar/dissimilar nature. The colour
fastness is usually rated either by loss of depth of colour/ colour change in the original sample
or it is o en expressed by staining scale meaning that the accompanying material gets
nted/stained by the colour of the original fabric when the accompanying white fabrics of
similar/dissimilar nature are either in touch/ made to touch by some means of test
procedure/protocol (Ashis et al. 2011).
2.2.3 Ligh astness test for co on fabrics dyed with natural dyes
Extensive work has been carried out to improve the light-fastness proper es of naturally dyed
tex les. A comprehensive review of different a empts taken for improving the colour fastness
proper es of dyes on different tex le fibres by different means is reported (Kamboj et al,
2022). The said review includes tannin-related a er-treatments for improving the wash
fastness and light fastness of mordant dyes on co on; some of these treatments might apply
to selec ve/specific natural dyes. Most natural dyes have poor light stability (as compared to
that of the best synthe c dyes), and hence the colours in museum tex les are o en different
from their original colours. The rela ve light stability of a range of dyes has been reviewed
(Adrosko, 2012) along with studies involving a change qualita vely. These colour changes are
studied quan ta vely where it is expressed the changes in terms of the Munsell scale and also
in CIE colour parameters (Ayakoha, 2017).
2.2.4. Wash fastness of co on fabrics dyed with natural dyes
To examine and improve wash fastness (Anyakoha, 2017), tests are carried out under standard
condi ons (50 oC) and also at 20 oC with a washing formula on used in conserva on work for
the restora on of old tex les. Some dyes undergo marked changes in hue on washing, shown
to be a ributed to even small amounts of alkali in washing mixtures, highligh ng the necessity
of knowing the pH of alkaline solu ons used for cleaning tex les dyed with natural dyes. As a
general rule, natural dyes (on wool) have only moderate wash fastness as assessed by the ISO
2 test. However, logwood and indigo dyes exhibit be er fastness when applied to different
tex les. The nature of detergent solu ons suitable for the conserva on of naturally coloured
artwork has been examined (Prabhu & Bhute, 2012). A liquor containing 1g/l of sodium
polyphosphate is found to be best resul ng in marginal changes in hue with natural dyes
applied on wool or silk (Anyakoha, 2017). The small increase in cleaning efficiency a ributable
to the alkali must be balanced against possible colour changes in the natural dyes, apart from
possible damage to the protein fibre under alkaline condi ons. In the ISO 2 test, the fastness
of the indigo and logwood is superior to that of the na ve natural dyeing such as privet berries
and water lily root respec vely, but in the comparison of na ve and imported yellow, reds,
red/purples, greens and browns, there is li le difference between the two groups (Anyakoha,
2017). It is found in a recent report that treatment with 2%CTAB or sandofix-HCF improved
the wash fastness to nearly 1 unit and treatment with 1% benzotriazole improved the
ligh astness of dyed jute tex les nearly half to one unit (Samanta et al, 2006; 2007; 2010 &
2011; Samanta & Agarwal, 2008).
2.2.5 Concept of Co on Fabric
Co on is one of the most commonly used tex le fibres in the world having any desirable
characteris cs such as comfort, so hand, good absorbency, colour reten on, reasonable
strength and machine ability. However, most natural dyes has li le affinity for co on and are
required to be as mordants (Asif et al., 2020).
Co on Fabric Characteris cs
Co on has been grown for food, fibre and even fuel for over 60000 years. You can find co on
in your clothes, sheets, and towels and co on is also used to make things like rope, US
Curency, paper, cooking oil, bathmats, bathropes, beedsheets, blankets, duvets, curtains, wall
hangings, animal feed, packaging, and biofuels. Manfacturers use co on to make medical
supplies and this fabric is also used to make industrial thread and tarps. Benefits versality of
co on are numerous. Co on is easier to wash and care for than other fabrics. Co on is a
natural crop that has used by humans dated back to 600BC, co on is harvested like many
other crops by humans who farm un ll the land has been in labour worth its inten on. It has
been a tremendous process but one so worth it because of the tremendous benefits of its use
in fabrics. Co on is popular because it’s very easy care for and comfortable year-round. In hot,
humid weather, co on breathes ‘as the body perspires, co on fibres absorps the moisture
and release it on the surface of the fabric, so its evaporates. In cold weather, if the fabric
remains dry, the fibres retains body heat, especially napped fabrics.Co on is easy to clean, it
can be laundered or dry cleaned. It withstand high water temperature, so it can be boiled and
thus sterilized. It does wrinkle easily and is prone to shrinkage. However, blending co on with
other fibres for pants, skirts, shirts, curtains, dresses, sheets and childrens cloth.

2.2.6 Mordant in Co on Dyeing with Natural Dyes

Grover & Patni (2011), describes a mordant as an element that quickens the chemical reac on
taking place between a fibre and a dye. They open up the fibre to enable the dye to be
absorbed and improve the fastness of the dye on the fibre. The Limita on on colour yield and
poor fastness proper es prompted a search for ideal mordants, the chemicals which increase
natural dye uptake by tex le fibres. Different types of mordants yield different colours even
for the same natural dye. Therefore, the final colour, their brilliance and colour fastness
proper es are not only dependent on the dye itself but are also determined by the varying
concentra on and skilful manipula on of the mordants. Thus, a mordant is more important
than the dye itself. Moreover, the ideal mordant for bulk use should produce an appreciable
colour yield in prac cable dyeing condi ons at a low cost, without seriously affec ng the
physical proper es of fibre or the fastness proper es of the dyes. Also, It should not cause any
harmful effect during processing and the dyed tex le material should not have any
carcinogenic effect during use.

2.2.7 Extrac on of natural dyes from plants

Extrac on of the colour component from the source natural dye material is an important step for
dyeing any tex le substrate to maximize the colour yield. Moreover, standardiza on of the
extrac on process and op mizing the extrac on variables both, for a par cular source of natural
dye material have technical and commercial importance on colour yield and cost of the extrac on
process as well as dyeing cost. The natural dyes can be taken from various vegetable sources like
flowers, stems or wood, roots, bark, etc. as well as animal sources and mineral sources. The colour
component present in these sources needs to be extracted so that it can be applied suitably to
tex les (Affat, 2021). Natural dyes of different origins can be extracted using an aqueous method
i.e. by using water for the extrac on with or without the addi on of salt/acid/alkali/alcohol in the
extrac on bath, supercri cal fluid extrac on, enzyme-assisted extrac on, alcoholic/organic
solvent extrac on by using relevant extrac ng equipment or soxhlet extrac on method with the
use of alcohol and benzene mixture and finally to the filtrate, evaporate and to dry using
ultrafiltra on equipment or centrifuge rotatory vacuum pump/or by extrac on under reduced
pressure. Nowadays, there have been industrial methods available for extrac ng colour
components/purified colour substances from natural dyes for their easy applica ons (Affat, 2021).
The collected source material is generally shadow dried in air or sun-dried within a temperature
range of 37-40°C for the moisture content of the source natural dye material is reduced to 10-
15% with proper drying since most of the material has a moisture content of 40-80% and cannot
be stored without drying. A er drying, grinding is carried out to break down the material into very
small units or preferably powder form. Extrac on refers to separa ng the desired colour
component by physical or chemical means with the aid of a solvent. Op mum condi ons of
extrac on variables are determined by extrac ng the natural colour component from the source
material by varying the extrac on parameters of liquor and measuring the op cal density of
corresponding coloured liquor by using a spectrophotometer (Samanta & Konar, 2011). Also, the
gravimetric yield of colour can be measured by filtering the extrac on liquor through a standard
filtra on process followed by evapora on of solvent, washing and finally drying to get the purified
natural colour.
2.2.8 Extrac on of natural dyes from plants using solvent-assisted systems
Due to increasingly stringent environmental regula ons, supercri cal fluid extrac on (SFE) has
gained wide acceptance in recent years as an alterna ve to conven onal solvent extrac on
for the separa on of organic compounds in many analy cal and industrial processes. In the
recent past decade, SFE has been applied successfully to the extrac on of a variety of organic
compounds from herbs, and other plant materials as well as natural colourants from source
natural dye material. With increasing public interest in natural products, SFE may become a
standard extrac on technique for sourcing natural dye material and other herbs and food
items. Supercri cal fluid extrac on using carbon dioxide as a solvent has provided an excellent
alterna ve to the use of chemical solvents. Over the past three decades, supercri cal CO2 has
been used for the extrac on and isola on of valuable compounds from natural products
(Konar, 2011). Supercri cal fluids are u lized to extract and purify natural colourants from
eucalyptus bark (Vankar et al. 2017). Extrac on of dye from food is best achieved with
ethanol/oxalic acid. The compara ve behaviour of other red food dyes is also studied and a
process developed for the extrac on of natural dye from the leaves of the teak plant is carried
out using aqueous methanol. A brick red shade from dyeing for silk/wool using the isolated
dye in presence of different mordants is achieved. Extrac on (Yadav et al., 2019) of well-
grounded henna leaves, directly in a solvent-assisted dyeing process, employing organic
solvent: water (1:9) as the dyeing medium is studied and superior dyeing proper es are
obtained when applied to polyester. Natural dye is obtained from grape skin waste by using a
soxhlet extractor, and later on, dis lled under a vacuum to obtain the concentrated dye
solu on.
2.2.9 Isola on and characteriza on of the colourant molecules from each dye plant
Dye compounds from natural resources especially from plants are increasingly becoming
important alterna ves to synthe c dyes for use in the tex le industry (Slama et al 2021). The
percep on of colour is the ability of some animals, including humans, to detect some
wavelengths of electromagne c radia on (light) differently from other wavelengths. Dyes
possess colour because they
i. They must absorb light in the visible spectrum (400 –700 nm);
ii. They must have at least one chromophore (colour-bearing group);
iii. They must have a conjugated system, i.e., a structure with alternating double
and single bonds;
iv. They must exhibit the resonance of electrons, which is a stabilizing force in
organic compounds (Samanta et al., 2009).
When any one of these features is lacking from the molecular structure, the colour is lost. In
addi on to chromophores, most dyes also contain groups known as auxochromes (colour
helpers), examples of which are carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, an amino group, and a hydroxyl
group. The word auxochrome is derived from two roots. The prefix auxo is from auxein, which
means increased. The second part, chrome, means colour, so the basic meaning of the word
auxochrome is colour increaser. This word was coined because it was noted originally that the
addi on of ionizing groups resulted in a deepening and intensifying of the colour of
compounds. While these are not responsible for colour, their presence can shi the colour of
a colourant, and they are most o en used to influence dye solubility. To know the structure of
the colourant in each dye extract that was derived from different plants, it was first necessary
to separate the coloured molecules by column chromatography. The structure elucida on of
separated and isolated compounds was then iden fied through spectroscopic methods such
as UV-visible, FT-IR, and mass spectroscopic methods. Although these are tedious methods,
they help in matching the structures with phytochemical literature and data.
The presence of colourant and its chemical nature was ascertained by spectroscopic and
chromatographic analysis of the dye extract. UV-visible analysis of aqueous and/ or
methanolic extract was carried out on a Thermo Heλios α model spectrophotometer at a
resolu on of 1 nm. FT-IR analysis of methanolic extract was carried out by the Vertex 70 model
of Bruker. HPLC was taken generally in a methanol-water (60:40) system on the C18 column
with a flow rate of 1 mL on Waters HPLC.
2.2.10 Prepara on of co on fabric and dyeing with natural dyes
Co on is purely cellulosic fibre and is found throughout the world with many varie es and
quali es. In general, co on fibre-based tex les are resized (for woven fabric only), scoured
and bleached as a preparatory process before dyeing with synthe c dyes. In many places of
the world, the age-old process followed in preparing a co on cloth and its dyeing with natural
dyes followed by ar san/co age level dyers is given below (Mohanty et al, 2006):-
a. Dunging - The cloth is soaked for one night in a solu on of water and fresh dung.
b. Washing - Next morning, the cloth is thoroughly washed, rinsed and water sprinkling is
con nued over the cloth at short intervals un l evening, then it is finally washed and dried
c. Steaming– Then the cloth is steamed for one night in an ordinary Khumb or washer man’s
steaming pot
d. Steeping in alkaline lye - The cloth is soaked in a mixture of water, oil [castor oil or gingili
oil], and alkali (sodium carbonate or soda known as sajikar or papadkhar).
e. Rinsing- Cloth is then again rinsed thoroughly and spread out to dry.
f. The last two processes are repeated for several days, the details varied in different locali es,
but generally from 3 to 7 days. In a specific case, the cloth is kept in the solu on for some
me, and then taken out, rinsed and dried twice daily.
g. Washing- The cloth is then finally washed in clean water, but not so thoroughly as to remove
the whole of the oil, and finally dried in the air under the sun.
h. Galling-The cloth is then soaked in a solu on of harda (haritaki) or myrobolan (Terminala
chebula) extracts. Behda or bahedas (terminala belerica) is also used instead of harda. The
period during which the cloth is kept in the harda extract varied in different places but it is
con nued un l the fabric assumes a yellowish nt.
i. Drying - The cloth is spread or wrung out for drying.
j. Mordan ng- The cloth is then pre-mordanted by dipping it in a solu on of potash alum and
water. In some places, gum or a paste of tamarind seed (tamarind kernel powder) is added to
make it s cky. In some parts of kutch, fuller’s earth is also used by some dyers. The cloth is
thus ready for subsequent dyeing.
k. Dyeing- For dyeing the cloth is generally boiled with an aqueous extracted solu on of the
natural dye un l all the colouring ma er is absorbed by the cloth.
l. Further dunging- In some places, the cloth is further soaked in dung for one night and
batched before final wash and drying.
m. Drying - The dyed fabric is next washed and spread out to dry gradually in the air under the
sun. Water is sprinkled at a certain interval over the cloth, to brighten the colour, this process
is con nued for 2-4 days.
n. Finishing - If required, the cloth is finally starched by dipping it in a paste of rice or wheat
flour, or a solu on of babool gum and then dried (Saxena and Raja, 2014).
However, nowadays, many small-scale dyers/export-oriented units follow much shorter
economical and standard recipe-based op mized processes for the natural dyeing of co on
yarns/fabrics. Before natural dyeing usual method of desizing (acid bath), scouring (soap &
soda) and H2O2 bleaching are followed. Well-prepared co on tex les are then mordanted
(single or double mordan ng using harda and aluminium sulphate individually or in
combina on) before being subjected to dyeing with an aqueous extract of selec ve natural
dyes at the standardized condi on of process variables of dyeing. E.g., the dyeing condi ons
may be as follows: dyeing me, 30 -120 minutes (depending on shades); dyeing temperature,
70- 100°C; material to liquor ra o, 1:20 -1:30; concentra on of natural dye, 10-50% (owm) or
more; common salt concentra on, 5-20g/L and pH, 10-12. In each case a er the dyeing is
over, the dyed samples are repeatedly washed with hot and cold water and then finally, the
dyed samples are subjected to soaping with 2g/L soap solu on at 60 0C for 15 min, followed
by repeated water wash and line dried. For improving its wash fastness, treatment with an
ecofriendly ca onic dye fixing agent is advisable.
2.2.11 Principle of dyeing with natural dyes using mordants
Ashis et al. (2011) maintained that most of the natural dyes have no substan vity on cellulose
or other tex le fibres without the use of a mordant. The majority of natural dyes need a
mordan ng chemical (preferably metal salt or suitably coordina ng complex forming agents)
to create an affinity between the fibre and dye or the pigment molecules of natural colourant.
These metallic salts as mordant form metal complexes with the fibres and the dyes. A er
mordan ng, the metal salts anchoring to the fibres a ract the dye/organic pigment molecules
to be anchored to the fibres and finally create the bridging link between the dye molecules
and the fibre by forming coordina ng complexes. Aluminium sulphate or other metallic
mordants anchored to any fibre, chemically combine with certain mordantly func onal groups
present in the natural dyes and are bound by coordinated/covalent bonds or hydrogen bonds
and other interac onal forces as shown in figure 1
Figure 1 Mechanism of fixa on of natural dyes through mordants

Thus, for the proper fixa on of natural dyes on any tex le fibre, mordan ng is essen al in
most cases. The said mordan ng can be accomplished either before dyeing (pre-mordan ng),
during dyeing (simultaneous mordan ng) or a er dyeing (post-mordan ng).

2.3 Related Empirical Studies

Sofyan et al, study the effect of of type and methods of mordants towards co on fabric dyeing
quality using Jengkol (Archidendron Jiringa) Pod waste and the results show that ype of
mordant was affected by the intensity and color strength of the fabric.

Faiza et al (2022) carried out a study on eco-friendly dyeing of co on using waste-derived

natural dyes and mordants stated that because of the environmental burden of synthe c dyes,
there has been a revival in prac cing natural dyeing globally. Natural dying uses metallic
mordants for improving dyes fastness proper es. However, metallic mordants are also toxic.
Both the dyes and mordants were extracted from plant waste using water as a green solvent.
The extracted dyes fabric were then applied to the co on fabric using a natural mordant. The
dyed fabric samples were characterized for color yield, fastness proper es, ultraviolet
protec on and an bacterial ac vity ac vity. The wastes of sugarcane bagasse wheat bran and
rice husk were used dye and mordant extrac on. It was found that by increasing the extrac on
temperature from 30 to 6o 0c, the dye yield increased. From the K/S value, it was observed
that pre-mordan ng gave be er colour strength than post-mordan ng or metal-mordan ng.
The overall ra ngs for the was ng and crocking were 3-4 and 4-5 respec vely. No significant
an bacterial ac vity was observed in the dyed samples. However, excellent ultraviolets
protec on was observed.
Another study was conducted by Heliyon et al., (2022), looked at the perspec ve on
sustainable color and tex le colora on using natural plant resources revealed that color
performance and quality, economy, eco-friendly, and health considera ons are fundamental
criteria for a suitable natural plant dye. The study also finds out that natural dyes do not only
produce delicate and subdued shades but also have the poten al of novel features to achieve
ac ve tex le substrates with performance proper es such as deodorizing, an -oxidant, an -
microbial, an feedant, UV protec on etc.
3.0 METHODOLOGY
The research design adopted for this study was the true experimental research design and
quasi-experimental research design. True experimental research design relied on sta s cal
analysis to prove or disprove a hypothesis. It was used since it is most accurate for establishing
a “cause-effect” rela onship within a group. The quasi-experiment was used to determine the
acceptability of the dyed prototypes by a group of panellists. The study was carried out in
Makurdi Local Government area, Benue State. The turmeric was gathered from farmlands
within Joseph Sarwuan Tarka University. The extrac on of the dyes from turmeric was done
in the Chemistry Department, while dyeing and fastness ra ng will be done in the Tex le
Dyeing and Prin ng Laboratory in the Department of Home Science and Management, Joseph
Sarwuan Tarka University. The research made use of three research instruments which were
Greyscales, Tumeric Dye Fastness Test Ra ng Scale (TDFTRS) instrument and Tumeric Dyed
Co on Fabrics (TDCFA) Instrument.
a. Grey Scales: The grey scales were used to rate the fastness to sunlight and washing
according to the International Standard Organisation (ISO), specifications.

b. Tumeric Dye Fastness Test Rating Scale: The Tumeric Dye Fastness Test Rating Scale
(TDFRS) instrument was developed and used to record the mean ratings of the
triplicate results of the fastness test with grey scales.
c. Tumeric Dyed Cotton Fabrics Acceptability (TDCFA) Instrument. Tumeric Dyed
Cotton Fabrics Acceptability (TDCFA) Instrument was used to test the acceptability of
cotton fabrics dyed with turmeric dye extracted by microwave and mordanted with
Alum, Potash and a non-mordant sample extracted with water, methanol, water and
n-hexane.
Data were collected in five stages;
Stage 1: The sourcing of turmeric dyes from within Joseph Sarwuan Tarka University and
extraction of dyes from turmeric using microwave extraction method and three different
solvents, namely; water, methanol and n-hexane
Stage 2: The UV visible and FTIR spectroscopy of the extracted dyes
Stage 3: The mordanting and application of dyes extracted with methanol, water and n-
hexane dyes on cotton fabric samples
Stage 4: The colour fastness test to washing and sunlight was conducted according to the
International Standard Organization standards
Stage 5: The acceptability of the dyed cotton fabrics was done to ascertain the acceptability
of the organoleptic attributes of turmeric cotton dyed fabric samples by the panellist
Nine sets of co on fabrics each measuring 30x30cm were cut and washed with water to
remove the size material which may be present in the fabrics.
1. Dye Extrac on
The tool used a domes c microwave oven Electrolux model EMM2007X with 2450 MHz
Magnetron frequency, maximum delivered power of 800 W, 220 V voltage. Oven dimension
with a length 46.1 cm, width 28.0 cm and height 37.3 cm. The extrac on process is carried out
in a three-round neck flask extractor equipped with a condenser placed at the top of the oven.
The temperature inside the extractor flask was measured with K 1/16 inc thermocouple type
fi ed to a microwave oven. Raw materials were milled and si ed to a certain size (35-60
mesh). Powder and solvent were fed into an extractor. Water flowed on the cooling system
(condenser). A er the extrac on process in the oven is complete, the extract then filtered
with filter paper (Whatman no.1, 90 mm diameter) using a vacuum filter. The obtained extract
solu on was concentrated and dried at a temperature of 60-80°C to a constant weight.
2. Mordan ng of the co on fabric samples
Nine sets of co on fabrics each measuring 30x30 cm were pre-mordanted with alum and
potash and a non-mordanted sample. Fi een percent of alum based on the weight of the
fabric is dissolved in a small amount of water. Then the cold water was added to get the
material to liquor ra o of 1:100. Then the fabric to be mordanted is added to the solu on.
Mordan ng is carried out at 60ºC for about 30 minutes. A er mordan ng, the sample fabric
is taken out and squeezed by hand and then immersed in the dye bath.
3. Dyeing of the samples
The procedures adopted by Ozougwu and Anyakoha (2017). Three pieces of co on fabric
samples measuring 30cm by 30cm each was scoured or washed thoroughly in warm water
three mes with detergent to remove all sizing. In three different stainless pots containing
1500 ml dis lled water and 0.3g sodium carbonate (NaCO3) each, 4g Aluminum sulphate
(AlSO4, alum) were dissolved in the first pot, 4g of Potash dissolved in the second pot. The
third stainless pot containing 0.3g sodium carbonate and 1500 dis lled water was not added
any dye fixing agent or mordant (control). The three wet-scoured co on fabric pieces was
immersed in each of the solu ons and gently but thoroughly s rred so that the fabrics will
open out in the solu on. Each was then heated, held to boil at 80 to 90°C for 1 hour and
allowed to cool overnight in the solu on. The mordanted co on fabric samples was labelled;
alum mordanted co on (AMC), Potash Modanted co on (PMC), and non-mordant co on
(NMC) for respec ve dyes. The experiment was repeated in triplicates and a total of 27 co on
fabrics were dyed.
Determina on of the organolep c a ributes of co on fabrics dyed with turmeric dyes using
Alum and Potash mordant
The method adopted by Ozougwu and Anyakoha (2016), was adopted in determining the
organolep c a ributes of co on fabrics dyed with turmeric dyes were determined by a panel
consis ng of 15 judges made up of 5 academics, 5 Technologist and 5 postgraduate students
in the Department of Home Science and Management in Joseph Sarwaun Tarka University.
This department offer courses related to dye produc on and u liza on. Their areas of
specializa on were in Clothing and Tex les. The Lecturers and the postgraduate students (who
also teach and work with dyes in their respec ve establishments) are in a be er posi on to
give an accurate evalua on of the organolep c quality of dye produced from the turmeric
plant. They are also co-consumers. The table below shows the Tumeric dye a ributes and
range of means for making decisions. An a ribute with a mean score of 3.00 was taken as
agreed while an a ribute with a score less than 3.00 is disagreed.
 Table 1. Tumeric dye a ributes and range of means for taking Decisions

S/No. A ributes Range of means for taking decisions

5.00-5.90 4.00-4.50 3.00-3.90 2.00-2.90 1.00-1.99
1 Colour hue very warm Warm fairly warm Cool very cool
2 Colour value very light Light fairly light Dark very dark
3 Colour very bright Bright fairly bright Dull very dull
chroma/Brightness
4 Texture (sight) very smooth Smooth fairly rough very rough
smooth
5 Texture (feel) very so So fairly so crisp/coarse very crisp
6 Odour (smell) very Pleasant Odourless offensive very
pleasant offensive
7 Evenness of shade very even Even fairly even uneven very uneven
(Anyakoho,U. 2017)
Determina on of light fastness proper es of co on fabrics dyed with turmeric dyes and
mordanted with Alum and Potash
Each of the strips of the prototype co on samples was subjected to a light fastness test
according to the interna onal standard organiza on (ISO/AO3:1993), specifica on. The
samples were mounted in an exposure frame and exposed to sunlight for 30hours 5 days. Gray
scale was used to rate the extent of fade and the triplicate tests were recorded with the
TDFTRS instrument.
4.0 RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
This sec on deals with interpreta on of results. The data obtained from this study were
analyzed using descrip ve sta s cs of means.
4.1 Results
Objec ve 1: Determine the yield of turmeric dye extracted with methanol, N-Hexane and
water.
Table 4. Yield of Turmeric Dye Extracted with Microwave
Dye W0 (g) W1 (g) % Yield
TDMth 500 300 60

TDNhx 500 170 34

TDHwt 500 50 10

Key
W0 –weight of crude turmeric, W1-weight of turmeric dye
TDMth= Tumeric dye extracted using methanol
TDNhx= Tumeric dye extracted using n-hexane
TDHwt= Tumeric dye extracted using hot water
 14

Objec ve 2: Determine the Chromophore and Auxochrome groups present in Tumeric Dyes
6

4
absorvance

1014
1036
1058
1080
200
222
244
266
288
310
332
354
376
398
420
442
464
486
508
530
552
574
596
618
640
662
684
706
728
750
772
794
816
838
860
882
904
926
948
970
992
wavelength

Figure 2. UV visible spectra of Tumeric dyes extracted with Methanol

Peaks show absorp on at respec ve wavelength, Broad characteris cs UV-visible absorp on at
around 236-330nm, weak short bands between 368-420nm, sharp bands between 410-462nm
and 484-538nm.
 15

4.5

3.5

3
absorvance

2.5

1.5

0.5

1016
1040
1064
1088
200
224
248
272
296
320
344
368
392
416
440
464
488
512
536
560
584
608
632
656
680
704
728
752
776
800
824
848
872
896
920
944
968
992
wavelenght

Figure 3. UV visible spectra of Tumeric dyes extracted with Water

Peaks show absorp on at respec ve wavelength, Bands between 400-800nm indicate the
presence of visible colours, while colours below and above indicate the presence of non-colouring
ma ers.
 16

3.5

2.5

2
absorbance

1.5

0.5

1014
1036
1058
1080
200
222
244
266
288
310
332
354
376
398
420
442
464
486
508
530
552
574
596
618
640
662
684
706
728
750
772
794
816
838
860
882
904
926
948
970
992
wavelenght

Figure 4. UV visible spectra of Tumeric dyes extracted with n-hexane

Peaks show absorp on at respec ve wavelength, Bands between 400-800nm indicate the
presence of visible colours, while colours below and above indicate the presence of non-colouring
ma ers.
 17

Figure 5. FTIR spectra of Tumeric dyes extracted with Water

Absorp on (cm-1) Band Func onal Groups Compound Class are 3212.6 Strong, Broad O-H
stretching Alcohol,2829.7 Medium C-H stretching Alkane,2105.9 Weak CΞC stretching Alkyne,
1595.3 Medium C=C stretching Conjugated alkene,1401.5 Medium C=C stretching Alkene,1304.6
Strong C-N stretching Aroma c amine,1028.7 Strong, Broad CO-O-CO stretching Anhydride

Figure 6. FTIR spectra of Tumeric dyes extracted with Methanol

Absorp on (cm-1) Band Func onal Groups Compound Class are 3451.5 Medium N-H stretching
Primary amine, 2985.6 Medium C-H stretching Alkane, 2768.4 Medium C-H stretching Aldehyde,
2079.9 Weak CΞC stretching Alkyne, 1990.4 Medium C=C=C stretching Alkene, 1722.0 Strong N-
H stretching Aldehyde, 1490.9 Strong N-O stretching Nitro compound, 1330.7 Medium C-H
bending Aldehyde, 1162.9 Strong C-O stretching Ter ary alcohol
 18

Figure 7. FTIR spectra of Tumeric dyes extracted with n-Hexane

Absorp on (cm-1) Band Func onal Groups Compound Class are 3652.8 - - - , 3257.7 Strong, Broad
O-H stretching Alcohol, 2922.2 Medium C-H stretching Alkane, 2113.4 Weak CΞC stretching
Alkyne,1994.1 Medium C=C=C stretching Alkene, 1908.4 Weak C-H bending Aroma c, 1625.1
Medium C=C stretching Conjugated alkene, 1580.4 Medium N-H bending Amine, 1509.6 Strong
N-O stretching Nitro compound, 1427.6 Medium C-H bending Alkane, 1375.4 Medium C-H
bending Alkane, 1271.0 Strong C-O stretching Alkyl aryl ether, 1233.7 Medium C-N stretching
Amine

Objec ve 3: Asses the effect of Alum and Potash on colour fastness proper es of co on fabrics
dyed with Tumeric Dyes
 19

Plate 1: Light fastness of microwave-extracted turmeric dye extracted with water on co on

fabrics using alum and potash as mordants
 20

Faded part was show effect of exposure to light while the unfaded part was shielded from light
Plate 2: Light fastness of microwave extracted turmeric dye extracted with methanol on co on
fabrics using alum and potash as mordants

Faded part was show effect of exposure to light while the unfaded part was shielded from light
 21

Plate 3: Light fastness of microwave extracted turmeric dye extracted with n-hexane on co on
fabrics using alum and potash as mordants

Faded part shows effect of exposure to light while the unfaded part shows shielded from light
Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

Plate 4: Wash fastness of microwave extracted turmeric dye extracted with water on co on
fabrics using alum and potash as mordants

Effect of washing on dyed samples

Plate 5: Wash fastness of microwave-extracted turmeric dye extracted with methanol on co on

fabrics using alum and potash as mordants

Effect of washing on dyed samples

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Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

Plate 6: Wash fastness of microwave-extracted turmeric dye extracted with n-hexane on co on

fabrics using alum and potash as mordants

Effect of washing on dyed samples

4.1.1 Grey scale ra ngs for colour fastness for the effects of potash and Alum on co on fabrics
dyed with turmeric dyes extracted by microwave

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Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

Table 5. Light colour fastness of dyed co on fabrics mordanted with

S/N Solvent Mordant 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Mean Remarks
1 Water Alum 0 0 0 0 0 0 2(2) 1(1) 1.67 NF
Potash 0 0 0 0 0 0 2(2) 1(1) 1.67 NF
Non 0 0 0 0 0 0 2(2) (1) 1.67 NF
mordanted
2 Methanol Alum 0 0 6(2) 5(1) 0 0 0 0 5.67 F
Potash 0 0 0 0 4(2) 3(1) 0 0 3.67 NF
Non 0 0 0 0 0 3(3) 0 0 3.00 NF
mordanted
3 n-hexane Alum 0 0 0 5(3) 0 0 0 0 5.00 F
Potash 0 0 0 0 4(2) 3(1) 0 0 3.67 NF
Non 0 0 0 0 4(1) 3(2) 0 0 3.34 NF
mordanted
Values are greyscale ra ng for light fastness proper es based on ISO 105-A02:1993
The means are mean values from the greyscale ra ng.
Key
NF - Non Fast, F - Fast

Table 6. Wash colour fastness of dyed co on fabrics mordanted with

S/N Extrac on Solvent Mordants 5 4 3 2 1 Mean Remarks
1 Water Alum 0 0 0 2(3) 0 2.00 NF
Potash 0 0 0 2(3) 0 2.00 NF
Non mordanted 0 0 0 2(3) 0 2.00 NF
2 Methanol Alum 0 4(3) 0 0 0 4.00 F
Potash 0 4(2) 3(1) 0 0 3.67 F
Non mordanted 0 0 3(3) 0 0 3.00 F
3 n-hexane Alum 5(1) 4(2) 0 0 0 4.34 F
Potash 0 4(2) 3(1) 0 0 3.67 F
Non mordanted 0 0 3(3) 0 0 3.00 F
Values are greyscale ra ng for wash fastness proper es based on ISO 105-A02:1993
The means are mean values from the greyscale ra ng.
Key
NF-Non fast, F-Fast

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Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

Table 7 Mean ra ngs of the colour fastness of co on fabrics dyed with microwave extracted
turmeric dyes to sunlight and washing

S/No. A ributes Range of means for taking decisions Mean Remarks

5 4 3 2 1
1 Colour hue 0 0 3(8) 2(5) 1(2) 3.00 Agreed
2 Colour value 0 0 0 2(9) 1(6) 1.60 Disagreed
3 Colour chroma 0 0 3(2) 2(7) 1(6) 1.73 Disagreed
4 Texture (sight) 0 0 3(1) 2(11) 1(3) 1.87 Disagreed
5 Texture (feel) 0 0 0 2(10) 1(5) 1.67 Disagreed
6 Odour (smell) 0 0 3(15) 0 0 3.00 Agreed
7 Evenness of 0 0 3(10) 2(3) 1(2) 2.53 Agreed
shade
S/No. Extrac on Solvent Mordants X1 X2
1 Water Alum 2.00 1.67
Potash 2.00 1.67
Non mordanted 2.00 1.67
2 Methanol Alum 4.00 5.67
Potash 3.67 3.67
Non mordanted 3.00 1.00
3 n-hexane Alum 4.34 5.00
Potash 3.67 3.67
Non mordanted 3.00 3.34
Values are mean ra ng for wash and light fastness proper es.
Key
X1= Wash fastness proper es,
X2= Light fastness proper es
Objec ve 4: Evaluate the acceptability of co on fabrics dyed with turmeric dyes by panelist
Table 8. The organolep c a ributes of water extracted turmeric dyes on co on fabrics

Values are ra ngs from panelists a ributes with a mean value of 3.0 and above is “agreed” while
a ribute below 3.0 is “disagreed”.
Key:
5 -Excellent
4 -Very Good
3 -Good
2 -Poor
1-Very Poor

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Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

Table 9. The organolep c a ributes of Methanol extracted turmeric dyes on co on fabrics

S/No. A ributes Range of means for taking decisions Mean Remarks
5 4 3 2 1
1 Colour hue 0 4(10)
4(6) 3(5)
3(7) 0
2(2) 0 3.67
3.27 Agreed
2 Colour value 0 4(9) 3(6)
3(5) 0
2(3) 0 3.60
3.80 Agreed
3 Colour chroma 0 4(9)
4(5) 3(4)
3(11) 1(2)
0 0 3.33
3.53 Agreed
4 Texture (sight) 5(10)
5(7) 4(4) 3(1)
3(5) 0 0 4.60
4.40 Agreed
5 Texture (feel) 5(13) 4(2) 0 0 0 4.87 Agreed
6 Odour (smell) 0 0 3(15) 0 0 3.00
4.83 Agreed
7 Evenness of shade 5(3)
5(9) 4(10)
4(4) 3(2) 0 0 4.06
4.46 Agreed
Values are ra ngs from panelists a ributes with a mean value of 3.0 and above is “agreed” while
a ribute below 3.0 is “disagreed”.
Key
5 -Excellent
4 -Very Good
3 -Good
2 -Poor
1-Very Poor
Table 10. The organolep c a ributes of n-hexane extracted turmeric dyes on co on fabrics
Values are ra ngs from panelists a ributes with a mean value of 3.0 and above is “agreed” while
a ribute below 3.0 is “disagreed”.

4.2 Discussion of results

Objec ve one: state that dye extracted with methanol yield 60%, N-Haxane 34%, and Water 10%.
This evidently shows that methanol has the best poten al in comparism to N-Haxane and water.
This is in line with Faiza et al (2022) which studied on eco-friendly dyeing of co on using waste-
derived natural dyes and mordants
Objec ve two: focused on the chromophore and auxochromes present in turmeric dye. Figure
4.1.1 showed the UV Visible absorp on of the extracted dyes from turmeric. The absorp on
peaks found to be below 400nm indicated the presence of non-colouring ma er or non-colour
absorbing groups in the dyes extracted with methanol. Bands at 464nm indicated the presence
of colour groups in the dye. Figure 4.1.2 states that the water-extracted dyes showed absorp on
at 224nm, 272nm, and 344nm and slight absorp on at 416nm. This means that water extracted
more of the non-colour groups at that range and slight colour groups at 416nm. Figure 4.1.3
showed n-hexane extracted dyes gave bands 288nm, 310nm and 420nm. the band at 420nm is
an indica on of colour groups in turmeric dye. The UV visible spectroscopy showed that non-
polar solvents or solvents with par ally polar and non-polar nature such as methanol are good
extrac on solvents. These research findings are similar to the findings of Sriwai et al, (2011) in
the spectroscopic inves ga on of the complex of turmeric with copper (II) ions in aqueous
solu on; the absorp on at 316nm, 472nm and 701nm is considered to be associated with
absorp on due to π- π* transi on of curcumin and n- π* curcumin ligand. The bands are
responsible for the yellow and intensive yellow hue of curcumin dye extract.

26
Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

The FTIR spectra of turmeric dyes extracted with water showed absorp on bands at 3272.6cm-1,
2829.7 cm-1, 2105.9 cm-1, 1595.3 cm-1, 11401.5 cm-1,1304.6 cm-1,779 cm-1,1028.7 cm-1,924.4 cm-
1,864.7 cm-1. Methanol extract gave absorp on bands at 3451. 5cm-1, 2985.6 cm-1,2079.9 cm-
1,1990.4 cm-1,1722.0 cm-1,1490.9 cm-1,1330.7 cm-1,1162.9 cm-1, 998.9 cm-1, 667.2 cm-1. The FTIR

of n-hexane extract gave bands at 3652.8 cm-1, 3257.7 cm-1, 2922.2 cm-1, 2113.4 cm-1, 1994.1 cm-
1, 1908.4 cm-1, 1625.1 cm-1,1580.4 cm-1, 1271.0 cm-1,1509.6 cm-1, 1427.6 cm-1,1378.4 cm-1,

1625.1 cm-1, 1580.4 cm-1, 1271.0 cm-1, 1509.6 cm-1, 1427.6 cm-1, 1375.4 cm-1,1233.7 cm-1, 1121.9
cm-1, 1073.5 cm-1, 1025.0 cm-1, 771.6 cm-1, 857.3 cm-1, 816.2 cm-1. The stretches at 3272.6cm-1,
3652.8 cm-1, 3257.7 cm in the extracts are associated with the stretching vibra on of the free
hydroxyl group of phenol (AR-OH). The bands at 2829.7 cm-1, 2105.9 cm-1, 2985.6 cm-1,2079.9
cm-1, 2922.2 cm-1, 2113.4 cm-1, as a ributed to sp2 C-H bond stretching, the conjugated carbonyl
bond (C=O) with two aroma c rings were accompanied by 1595.3 cm-1,1990.4 cm-1,1722.0 1908.4
cm-1,1625.1 cm-1,1580.4 cm-1, 1509.6 cm-1, 1509.6 cm-1. These were similar to the findings of Nur
et al (2015) in the preliminary study of natural pigments phytochemical proper es of Curcumia
longa and Lawsonia inermisL as TiO2 photoelectrode sensi zer.
Objec ve three: focused on the effects of alum and potash on the colour fastness of co on
fabrics shows that, fabrics dyed with dye extracted using methanol and hexane, then mordanted
with alum gave the best results in terms of light and wash fastness. Table 2 shows the light colour
fastness of the dyed co on fabrics mordanted with various solvents and non-mordanted co on
fabrics. Table 3 shows the wash colour fastness of the dyed co on fabrics mordanted with various
solvents and non-mordanted co on fabrics. Both Table 2 and Table 3 shows that the colour
fastness of the dyed fabrics varied depending on the solvent and mordant used. These were
similar to findings of Desalegn , et al (2017), which studied the impact of sunlight exposure to
different dyed fabrics on colour fastness to washing.

Objec ve four: focused on the acceptability of the organolep c a ributes of co on fabrics dyed
with turmeric dyes by panellists and was shown in table 5, 6 and 7. The colours obtained were in
the range of yellow to orange with a warm hue, light colour values, fairly bright chroma, very
smooth textures of feel, odourless and very even shades. All these a ributes were agreed to be
present in the co on fabrics dyed with turmeric dyes using alum and potash mordants. These
research findings were similar to Ozougwu and Anyakoha (2016) from Roselle calyces based on
its phytochemical composi on and evalua on of its organolep c a ributes.
5.0 CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
5.1 Conclusion
Turmeric dyes were extracted from turmeric roots and analysed using Fouriier–Transform
Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Ultra Vulent (UV) visible, the colour ranged from yellow to deep
orange. The result from this study showed that non-polar solvents or par ally polar solvents can
be used in the extrac on of brilliant yellow-orange colour from turmeric and can be applied to
co on fabrics using potash or alum as the two can improve the wash and light fastness and also
deepen the colour of the dyed fabric. Specifically, methanol presents the best solvent for the
extrac on of these dyes and can be recovered at the end of the extrac on process which will
offset the cost of the solvent. The a ributes of the dyed fabrics were all agreed to be acceptable
by final consumers as judged by the panellist. The results showed that water does not affect the
dyed fabrics irrespec ve of the mordant used since it did not extract sufficient dyestuff to enable

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Interna onal Journal of Food Science, Tourism & Home Economics

be er dye exhaus on on co on fabrics. Therefore, the research concludes that turmeric dye can
be a good natural alterna ves for co on fabric dyeing with good colorfastness proper es.
5.3 Recommenda ons
Based on the findings of this research work, the study recommends that;
i. Methanol gives the best dye yield when used as extraction solvent and therefore should
be used as extraction solvent for natural dyes.
ii. The chromophores, auxochromes and hue present in turmeric dyes, ranged from yellow-
orange. More spectroscopic techniques should be used to analyse these dyes for further
applications in drugs and cosmetics.
iii. Alum and potash should be used as mordant in natural dying since they gave the best in
terms of both wash and light fastness of cotton fabric.
iv. Further analysis such as anti-microbial, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory test should
be carried on dyed cotton fabrics and recommended for hospital and pharmaceutical
applications.
5.4 Sugges ons for further study
The following sugges ons are made for further research:
1. Advanced spectroscopic analysis of chromophores and auxochromes in turmeric dyes;
unraveling the molecular basis of dye color through high-resolution techniques.
2. Effects of different dyeing parameters (temperature, pH, dye concentration) on the
fastness properties of turmeric-dyed cotton fabrics.
3. Exploration of alternative solvents and extraction techniques for maximizing solubility
and extraction of turmeric dyes.

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Table 2: Greyscale ra ngs for ligh astness Proper es

Grade Degree of Fading Ligh astness Type
8 No fading Outstanding
7 Very Slight Fading Excellent
6 Slight fading Very good
5 Moderate fading Good
4 Appreciable fading Moderate
3 Significant fading Fair
2 Extensive fading Poor
1 Extensive fading Very poor

(ISO 105-A02:1993 reviewed 2020)

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3.8 Determina on of the wash fastness proper es of co on fabrics dyed with turmeric dyes
and mordanted with Alum and Potash
Wash fastness tests were carried out according to Interna onal Standard Organiza on wash
fastness test NO. 3. Under the following condi ons; Soda wash 2g/l, soap 5g/l, liquor ra o of 50:1,
the temperature of 60OC for 30 minutes. Each of the dyed samples of co on fabrics was
sandwiched between undyed co on and nylon fabrics and agitated for 5 minutes in a 100ml
beaker containing the soap solu on. The composite samples were then removed, rinsed and the
component separated and dried. The change in the colour of the dyed specimens and the staining
of the adjacent fabrics Grayscale was used to rate the extent of fade and the triplicate tests were
recorded with the TDFTRS instrument.

Table 3: Greyscale ra ng for wash fastness proper es

Grade Degree of Fading Ligh astness Type

5 Moderate fading Good

4 Appreciable fading Moderate
3 Significant fading Fair
2 Extensive fading Poor
1 Extensive fading Very poor

(ISO 105-A02:1993, reviewed 2020)

3.9 Method of Data Analysis

The data obtained from this study were analyzed using Gen-Stat 64-bit Release 17.1 Copyright
2014, VSN Interna onal Ltd. Registered to ICRISAT. Data obtained from wash fastness, light
fastness and acceptability of organolep c a ributes were analyzed using descrip ve sta s cs of
mean.

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