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Progressive Fork Spring Installation

1. Replacing the front fork springs on a motorcycle can be done without removing the forks from the bike and only takes about 20 minutes. 2. To replace the springs, remove the fork cap, extract the stock spring, spacers, and washers. It is recommended to also change the fork oil at this time. 3. Install the new progressive springs from WIRTH along with any necessary spacers or washers, then replace the fork cap. The new springs will improve bike handling.

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128 views3 pages

Progressive Fork Spring Installation

1. Replacing the front fork springs on a motorcycle can be done without removing the forks from the bike and only takes about 20 minutes. 2. To replace the springs, remove the fork cap, extract the stock spring, spacers, and washers. It is recommended to also change the fork oil at this time. 3. Install the new progressive springs from WIRTH along with any necessary spacers or washers, then replace the fork cap. The new springs will improve bike handling.

Uploaded by

gilles cicurel
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Progressive fork spring install

Replacing the springs without fork removal

Progressive fork springs from WIRTH will greatly improve the handling of your bike
and should be considered one of the first upgrades to your bike.

This procedure of changing the front fork springs will just take about 20 minutes, with
a change of fork oil a trifle longer.

1.

Work one fork leg at a time. If you remove both springs at same time the front will
collapse and the bike will roll off the centerstand. With the bike on its centerstand, if
necessary, remove the bolts holding the handlebars and remove handlebars. No
need to remove any switchgear, all you have to do is moving bars just far enough to
clear the fork caps. Sometimes you have to loosen upper pinch bolts on fork leg be-
fore removing fork cap bolt.
2

Using a drive socket wrench without a socket or other necessary tool, remove the
fork cap bolt and attached o-ring (see photo). There is usually a little spring tension
so be careful – best is to put a thick cloth on and around the gas tank. The cap some-
times requires a special tool for removal but wrench sockets often fit perfectly. At this
point you can see the top of the stock spacer. Remove it.

The stock fork spring are sometimes very short compared to the WIRTH-springs. You
will need to fish the spring and the spring seat out with either a bent wire (like a
clothes hanger-just be careful not to scratch the inside surface of the fork) or you can
use an extended magnet, like shown in picture - much easier. The spring seat will be
sitting on top of spring and is a seat for the spacer. This comes out too.

2.

After the fork cap has been removed, extract the stock washers, spacers and springs.
It is HIGHLY recommended that you change your fork oil now. If you are not going to
change you fork oil, then remove the stock fork spring as if you were unscrewing a
bolt. This will keep as much oil as possible in the fork, and only slightly affect the
level. At a MINIMUM, you should check the oil level. We recommend setting the oil
by level, not by pouring in a pre-measured volume. Oil level is measured from the top
of the fork tube with the spring out, and all parts of the fork collapsed as far as possi-
ble. Please see our homepage www.wirth-federn.de for a recommended oil level.

Replacing fork oil - The Lazy way

Get a large syringe or something similar with a catheter hose end on it and add some
stiff plastic tubing. Make sure the tubing is long enough to reach the entire length of
the fork. The syringe needs to hold about a pint when full so the job won’t take too
long.
Check the fork oil level with a folding rule, straight wire, rod or straightened coat
hanger that reaches all the way to the bottom-use as a dipstick. Fill one leg at a time
until you have the correct amount of oil; verify this with the dipstick often. Make sure
not to use a wire too short and drop it. Use the dipstick to match the other fork leg oil
3

level. There is always some oil left in the tube after draining so this keeps them
equal.

WARNING ABOUT THIS METHOD OF FORK OIL REPLACEMENT: This will not
completely drain the old oil out of a fork. For one, there is valving in the bottom end
that the suction tube will not penetrate. And it takes a while for all the oil to drain off
the walls and out of the tubes even when they are properly taken out of the bike and
turned upside down. Additionally, if there is any crud such as the minute bits of filings
that accumulate at the bottom of the tubes, this will not be removed either.

But the only other way is to take the legs completely out and hold them upside-down
to drench them completely.

3.

Installation is the reverse of the step no 1. Insert the WIRTH-spring, tight coils up-
ward, and – if necessary - spring seat or washer and new spacer-cut to size (comes
with the springs if necessary). If spacers are used, they should always sit on top. If in
need you can use a PVC pipe to cut a spacer from or you can also cut the stock
spacer if you choose.
Because of pre-tension sometimes you have to use some force to depress the spring
when installing the end cap, but the threads are fine, so use caution.
The new spacer will stick out above the top. To replace the fork cap bolt its easiest to
place it on spacer, place drive socket wrench on it and turn it slowly while applying
pressure with your palm, feeling for the threads to catch – you can mark the right spot
in advance without spacer or springs inside the fork. Be very careful not to cross-
thread the cap. Once you are done with one side continue to the other side using
same steps.

Picture shows the stock spring, spring seat (not always existent) and spacer on top
and the progressive WIRTH-spring and stock spacer cut down on bottom. You re-use
your stock spring seat. Notice how much longer and thicker the WIRTHs are com-
pared to stock.
The ride should be greatly improved without fork oil replacement but will be even bet-
ter with thicker oil – because the springs are stronger than the originals, you should
increase the dampening also, i.e. for instance use oil SAE 15 instead of SAE 10 (see
our homepage for recommendations for you bike).

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