Unit:5 - FINISHING

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 FINISHING

• Textile Finishing is a final process used in manufacturing

of fabric or clothing.
• It can be done after bleaching, after dyeing and after
printing.
• In order to impart the required functional properties to
the fabric.
• It is customary to subject the material to different type of
physical and chemical treatments.
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Objectives of Finishing -
• To improve the appearance of the fabric.
• To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.
• To cover faults in the original fabric.
• To improve the feel of the fabric.
• To improve wearing qualities of fabric by making it shrink or
crease resistant.
• To import special properties to the fabric for special end uses
such as water reppelent, flame-proofing etc.
• To strengthen the fabric by coating or laminating.
• To produce novelty effects.

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 Classification of Finishing
1) Classification based on Nature of Finish -
ü Physical or Mechanical finish: fabric appearance to be change.
(also known as dry finish.)
ü Chemical finish: also known as wet finish.

2) Classification based on Degree of performance -

ü Permanent Finish: Involve chemical changes.
ü Durable Finish: Effectiveness changes every wash
ü Semi-Durable Finish: Withstand several washes.
ü Temporary Finish: Withstand very low washes.

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 Classification of Finishing
3) Classification based on Performance -

ü Aesthetic Finishing: Modification of appearance of the fabric.

ü Functional finishing: Internal properties changes.
 Classification of Finishing
Mechanical Finishing - Chemical Finishing -
• Calendering • Softening
• Compacting • Crease Resistant
• Embossing • Soil Release Finishes
• Flame Retardant Treatment
• Sueding
• Peach finish
• Raising or Napping • Anti Pilling
• Wool Glazing • Non Slip Finish
• Shearing • Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes
• Stabilization • Oil and Water Proofing
• Steaming and Heat • Water-Repellent Finishes
setting • Absorbent Finishes
• Sanforizing • Anti Static Finish
• Antibacterial Finish
 RESIN FINISHING
• Definition of Resin Finishing -
• The process of applying resins on textile material so that they cross
link inside the amorphous region, block the free hydroxyl groups,
prevent the H-bond formation and thus improve resin finishing.
• It may be applied on the surface of the material to form a coating or it
may be applied to the amorphous region of the material to impart a
crease resisting property.

• Definition of Resin -
• Synthetic resins are complex organic products of high molecular
weight.
• Resin results when a number of simple molecular of low molecular
weight become jointed together and to end to form much longer
molecules which may be linear or linear molecules cross-linked.
 RESIN FINISHING
• Cotton is mainly used for apparel purpose because of durability,
comfort, good precipitation properties.
• Cotton give creasing at the time of cursing because of various
process conditions.
• It form crease on the material.
• The ability of recover of crease and wrinkle is defined as crease
recovery.
• For this purpose can be use Resin.
• It also often called,
ü Wash & wear finish
ü Anti crease finish
ü Wrinkle free finish
ü Durable press finishing
MECHANISM -
• Cellulose macromolecules form crystalline and amorphous regions
depending on weather they are bound by side-ways links like
hydrogen bonds between th e hy dr oxy g r o ups of a dj a c e nt
macromolecules.

• The hyrodxy group of the amorphous region are far apart and since
hydrogen bonds operate at short distances, these hydroxyl groups
remain unbound.
MECHANISM -
Ø When a cotton cloth are folded and pressed, some of the hydrogen
bonds at the boundary of the crystalline and amorphous regions
break simultaneously free hydrogen bond in amorphous region
approach other free hydroxy groups and when they are sufficiently
close to each other they get bound.
Ø These newly formed hydrogens bonds bind the molecules and
prevent unfolding.
• Resin finish is cross linking agents which form covalent bond on
reaction with OH groups in cellulosic material.
• We need to maintain 2-3 pH highly acidic conditions.
• Two types,
1) cross linking type
2) deposition type

RECIPE -
Cross-linking agent : 100-120 gm/l
MgCl2 : 100-120 gm/l
PH : 4.5-5
Dry : 100 - 120 ℃
Curing : 150-170℃
Curing time : 2-4 minutes
Advantages: Disadvantages:
• Improve crease resistance and • Decrease tensile and tear
crease recovery properties. strength.
• Reduce shrinkage during • Decrease abrasion resistance.
laundering process. • Gives unwanted harsh
• Import smooth and quick dry handling feel.
properties. • Gives unpleasant odor.
• Improve dimensional stability.
• It prevent inter molecular
slippage.
 HEAT SETTING
• PURPOSE -
1) Heat treatment by which shape retention, crease resistance,
resilience and elasticity are imparted to the fibres.
2) It also brings changes in strength, stretchability, softness,
dyeability and sometimes on the colour of the material.
3) All these changes are connected with the structural and
chemical modifications occurring in the fibre.
4) Mainly for synthetic fibres.
5) The process grants excellent dimensional stability and good
crease-proof properties.

• PROCESS -
• Fabric is exposed (by air blowing) to temperatures exceeding
the Tg temperature.
 Heat setting of Some Fibers

FIBRE MIN TEMP º C MAX TEMP º C TIME (sec)

PET 180 220 15 - 60

Nylon 6 6 170 220 15 - 60

Nylon 6 170 180 15 - 60

Elastomers 170 200 15 - 60

• Heat setting stages:

• Grey, after scouring and after dyeing.
• Depends on extent of contaminations and types of fibres or yams
present in the fabric heat setting process extends.
• Heat setting after dyeing could lead to the sublimation of disperse dyes.
 Weight Reduction of PET
• Majority of drawbacks include very low moisture absorption (0.4%
moisture regain) and poor dye ability due to high degree
of “Hydrophobicity” of the fiber molecular structure and compactness
of polymer structure.
• Specifically Weight Reduction is done to the Heavy Polyester Fabric
to modify Polyester Fiber either partially or fully by co– polymerization
or by treating Polyester Fiber with Alkali / Acid/ Organic solvents
treatments.
• Among these, the “Weight reduction’ of polyester by partial Alkaline
Hydrolysis is not only less expensive, with better & favorable results in
improved physical And comfort properties.
• The weight reduction treatment is thus a major breakthrough to obtained
‘Skin Care Polyester Fabric.
• To achieve 15% Weight Reduction, at the optimum treatment conditions
at 5% NaOH and Catalyst were used 0.5 % OWF for 60 min at 90°C.
 WATER REPELLENT FINISH
Ø Finishes that repel water, oil, and dry dirt are important in all parts of the
textiles market for clothing, home and technical textiles.
Ø Aim of finish is that drops of water should not spread on the surface of the
textiles and should not wet the fabric, wetting occur when in form of
droplet is absorbed by fabric.
Ø The drops should stay on the surface and easily drips off.
Ø Water repellency maintains air permeability or breath ability of fabric and
is not significantly reduced.
Ø To create a surface with low surface energy, so that the interaction
between surface and fluid is less than internal between fluids and fluids,
therefore a fluid drops off.
 WATER REPELLENT FINISH
• Resistant to water molecules into fabric.
• Allow moisture vapour or air.
• Its different from water proof.
MECHANISM OF REPELLENCY -

• Repellent finishes achieve their properties by reducing the free

energy at fiber surfaces.

• If the adhesive interactions between a fiber and a drop of liquid

placed on the fiber are greater than the internal cohesive interaction
within the liquid, the drop will spread.

• If the adhesive interactions between the fiber and the liquid are less
than the internal cohesive interactions within the liquid, the drop
will not spread.

• If contact angle is less than 90º water will absorb, greater than 90º
water will float. ( check below diagram).
WATER REPELLENT -
Chemicals used -
• Paraffin based chemicals
• Stearic acid - melamine based
chemicals
• Silicone based
• Fluoro chemical based
 FLAME RETARDENT FINISHING
• Flame-retardant finishes provide textiles with an important
performance characteristic.
• Protection of consumers from unsafe apparel.
• Firefighters and emergency personnel require protection from fire.
• Floor coverings, upholstery and drapery protection
• The military, airline industry.

Flame Retardent Chemistry -

PRIMARY COMPOUNDS:
Based on Phosphorus and Halogens compounds.

SYNERGISTIC RETARDENCY:
Nitrogen with Phosphorus & Antimony with Halogens.
COMBUSTION CYCLE -

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MECHANISM -
PYROLYSIS:
• At this stage fibre undergo irreversible reaction to produce non flammable gases
like CO2, water vapour.
• Flammable gases too.
COMBUSTION TEMPERATURE:
• At this stage flammable gases will react with Oxygen to produce gas phase free
radicals.
• These reaction is highly exothermic.
• Produces large amount of light and energy.
• The limiting oxygen index (LOI) is the minimum concentration of oxygen,
expressed as a percentage, that will support combustion of a polymer.

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Flame Retardants for Cellulose -
Non durable:
1. Inorganic salts have long been known to provide flame retardancy on
cellulosic material that will not be exposed to water, rain or perspiration.
2. Today, a mixture of boric acid and borax is still an effective flame
retardant for cotton at ~ 10 % solids add-on.
3. Ammonium salts of strong acids, especially phosphoric acid (P/N
synergism) are particularly useful as nondurable flame retardants for
cellulose.
Durable:
1. The most successful durable flame retardants for cellulose are based on
ü Phosphorous- and Nitrogen-containing chemical systems.
ü That can react with the fibre or form cross-linked structures on the
fibre.
2. The key ingredient of one of these finishes is
ü Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium chloride (THPC),
ü Made from phosphine, formaldehyde and hydrochloric acid.
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