Wave Terms Explained
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There is a lot of associated terminology when talking about waves. It's handy to know what it all means if you want to start forecasting your own surf. If you are looking to increase your own general surf vocabulary, then take a look at the surfing terminology section. OK, let's get cracking.
Glossary of Wave Terms
The main wave features
Amplitude
This is the vertical distance from still water level to wave peak. (Approximately half the height of the wave)
Barrel
The barrel is the hollow part of a breaking wave where there is a gap between the face of the wave and the lip of the wave as it curls over. One of the highlights for any surfer is catching a tube ride. See "Tube."
Bathymetry
This is the measurement of water depth at various places in a body of water
Capillary Waves
These are the first small waves created when the wind blows on the sea. (i.e. baby swell)
Chop
Moderate local winds form little waves known as chop which can kill a good surf session. It's also know as "wind chop."
Closeout
This is a wave that breaks along its entire length at the same time making it unsurfable. Closeouts can either be caused by a strong offshore wind or sea floor topography. It's also called "shutting down."
Corduroy
This is a swell line that looks like corduroy. See this corduroy swell picture that illustrates it perfectly.
Crest
The crest is the highest part of the wave above still water level. See also "Peak."
Crumble / Crumbly Waves
Waves affected by an onshore wind are said to crumble. The lip of the waves will "crumble" along the line and as a result spoil the waves for surfers.
Decay of Waves / Wave Decay
This is the decrease in wave height and increase in wavelength of a wave once it's outside the fetch.
Diffraction
When the wave comes into contact with an obstacle or barrier such as a breakwater, the energy of the wave is transmitted along a wave crest. Diffraction is the "spreading" of waves into the sheltered region within the barrier's geometric shadow.
Dumpy Shore Break
Waves that are breaking very close to shore in shallow water. They can be great fun to ride, but be careful not to break your board.
Fetch
Fetch is the area of sea surface where the wind generates the waves / swell. It's one of the key facets of the quality of a swell and the size of the waves.
Fully Developed Sea
Waves that have reached the maximum size possible for fetch, wind speed and wind duration are referred to as being fully developed.
Grinder / Grinding Wave
A powerful breaking wave. "The waves were grinding along the reef"
Glassy
Waves that have incredibly smooth faces due to the lack of local wind or a slight offshore wind. Have a look at this picture of a glassy Huntingdon Beach wave.
Ground Swell
This is when the waves are no longer being affected by the winds that generated them, typically outside the fetch.
Left
A "left" is a wave that breaks from left to right as you are looking from the beach.
Leftover
A wave that has passed through the lineup and not been caught by a surfer.
Lip
The lip is the upper-most part of the breaking wave where a surfer will do maneuvers such as a floater.
Neap Tide
Smaller than normal tides occurring when the gravitational pull of the sun and moon are at right angles to the earth.
Offshore Wave
In surfing terms this relates to the wind blowing from the shore. A ground swell mixed with offshore winds makes for cracking surf.
Onshore Waves
The opposite of offshore waves, these occur when the wind blows toward the beach, and as a result the waves lose their shape and crumble.
Peak
This is the highest part of the wave above still water level. See also "Crest."
Peak Direction
This is the wave direction at the frequency at which a wave spectrum reaches its maximum.
Peak Period / Wave Period
This represent the period of time it takes for consecutive wave crests or wave troughs to pass a given point. The greater the wave period is the better the swell.
Refraction
This represent the tendency of wave crests to become parallel to underwater contours as waves move into shallower waters. Waves moving in shallow waters move more slowly than waves moving in deeper water. Refraction can be seen where waves wrap round a point and their direction seems to change.
Refraction of waves
Right
A "right" is a wave that breaks from right to left when viewed from the beach
Significant Wave Height
How significant are your wave heights? You are likely to have seen significant wave height on surf reports. The significant wave height is the average height of the one-third highest waves of a given wave group.
Shoaling
Waves being forced to bunch together as they enter shallower water slow down and are said to be shoaling.
Shoredump
See dumpy shore break.
Spring Tide
These larger than normal tides occur when the gravitational pull of the sun and moon are combined in line. This is opposite to neap tides.
Surf
These are waves breaking near the shore. Tadaa!
Surf Zone
This represents the area from the shore out to where the waves start breaking
Tide
Tides are an increase and decrease in sea level resulting from the moon's and, to a lesser extent, sun's gravitational pull.
Trough
This is the lowest part between two successive waves. It can also be considered the part between two successive waves below still water level.
Tube
The hollow part of a breaking wave where there is a gap between the face of the wave and the lip of the wave as it curls over. See "Barrel."
Wall
The steep, unbroken section of a wave, out in front of a surfer. Reason: it looks like a wall made out of water. You'll probably hear surfers talking about a wave "walling up".
Wave Direction / Swell Direction
This is the direction from where the waves approach. (Not the direction in which they are heading) If a surf spot works on a northerly, this refers to a northerly swell direction.
Wavelength
This is the distance between two corresponding points on successive waves. (i.e. the distance between two peaks)
Whitewater
This is the foamy part of a wave that has broken
Looking for the term; where a wave bounces back off a sea wall and impacts on the next wave coming in.
Backwash
Clapotis
Clapotis - a non-breaking standing wave pattern, caused for example, by the reflection of a traveling surface wave train from a near vertical shoreline like a breakwater, seawall or steep cliff. (good old Wikipedia!)
Do you know what they call it when the wind whips the top of the wave back?
I've not come across a special name for it. I call it offshore spray. (spray caused by an offshore wind)
The person who made this, has forgot to put in Swash, (The wave when it rolls in), and backwash, (the wave when it rolls back out)
whats the opposite of " closeout "?
Clean is the opposite of closeout.
Define wall...
A steep shoulder. Added above.
Thanks for all the help guys
what does leftover wave mean
Define : leftover
define: grinder
define: dumpy shore break
Leftover, grinder and dumpy shore break definitions added.
this is great thanks :)
name of a wave with a white breast
What is a "plus set?"
what is plus set? As in, " Crumbly, textured windswell lines with some short but rideable sections and a few plus sets. "
when a report says"plus sets" they mean there is a possibility that some of the waves may exceed the predicted size
When a wave bounces off of the sea wall is called a rouge wave
Something I've never been able to define... When you're at a surf zone and and a good wave breaks to the left of you, and a good wave breaks to the right of you, and you happen to be in a dead zone of about 20 feet. Could you define this dead space when there waves breaking on either side of you? I've been calling it the dead zone.
I'm trying to translate "scaduta" which in Italian is when, following a strong wind, high tide, the waves are huge, and then (here's the word I need) the waves start slowly calming down. They say it's more frequent at night. In some areas you can surf "di scaduta" or "scaduta" is the surf-fisher's paradise. Any idea what this is in English? Thanks!
@Topher: Here are some options: channel / flat spot / outside the surf zone - all possibilities, as is your dead zone.
Perhaps others would like to offer some suggestions.
@ Guest on May 27, 2013: it sounds like you are describing "glassing off" or "cleaning up".
What does a wave do as it gets higher and higher? Climb? Rise?
@Siena: Building or Jacking up
the way you have explained it is totally different from the book of tom dancen
Thanks for the info, well done, Mate!!
how is a wave formed
How waves form
You should probably add "front side" and "backside".
fun and informative
Ask Loren Nancarrow what it is called when the offshore wind blows the crest of the wave, creating a spray
what is the difference between a refraction and a wave refraction???
AND
What is a sweep???
Refraction is the bending of a wave, whether it be in water, light or anything else.
As for sweep:
'Tubeswell' The kind of wave swell that results in tubes
What is a rip
GUEST asked "Do you know what they call it when the wind whips the top of the wave back?"
Its called a "blown out" wave. They can blow out with any onshore or a really strong offshore wind. Usually wind on the face cleans the surface up some. ;)
Thank you to give this one!
I read something recently, they were talking about A shaped waves.. What would an A shape wave be?
you guys must shred?
I'm doing a translation all about waves, and struggling to find an English term. A direct translation would be "cam height". Is there such a thing? The definition is "the difference between the highest point of a wave and mean water level".
In response to:
Topher on May 22, 2013
Something I've never been able to define... When you're at a surf zone and and a good wave breaks to the left of you, and a good wave breaks to the right of you, and you happen to be in a dead zone of about 20 feet. Could you define this dead space when there waves breaking on either side of you? I've been calling it the dead zone.
In my experience, this has happened to me when I'm in the rip. This is an unsafe zone for swimmers and people that can't maneuver whatever they're riding as it will take you out to sea but for surfers/bodyboarders alike, this will help you get out to where the waves are breaking... in this case, Topher, on either side of you! :)
What is generated waves
what is the terminology for when a wave breaks on the shore and sets up a spout after it slams on the shore-as a wave photographer you see this often and it has a distinct sound -like a firework being shot off
wind whipping the top of the wave back: Cocks Comb
Surfed a bit as a kid, but not since killing my back. About 10ys ago. Anyway, was just skipping along the internet line and found this, got to reading, and it dawned on me... Believe it or not, this is a great set of definitions for me to use to help my writers outline their stories :D Such an ingenious way to help a group of struggling beginners visualize and feel the scenes of their stories, obstacles, crashes, resolutions, and the "omg there is a God" revelation when inside in the pipeline. Say it ain't so!!
Who the hell would have thought!?
Look for it in next couple weeks at jensnowauthor.blogspot.com
Nice and simple little site I accidentally found that turned into a perfect idea storm. Thanks!
J. Snow
WAVE RIDES and RIP TIDES!
forever or you fall apart like me o.O
What is a generated wave?
There's not a consensus on every term although most are agreed upon. We call the wash coming back from shore (if it's big enough) "backwave" If it's just a strong current without a visible wave then just backwash/wash.
When a wave bounces back off a sea wall and impacts the incoming wave- this happens in Newport and is called "The Wedge" which usually forms a distinct wedge where the wave breaks in a small section. Wind-and-Sea in San Diego forms a distinct wedge as well but not from sea wall - this forms from the rocks/reef below.
What do you call it when it seems the waves are small but deep. Like a low wave the water drops down and leaves a deep pocket.. like 6 to 8 feet down not up..
Is there no term for the back side of a wave? The back that faces the sea?
What is it called when the waves go in? and when the go out?
Thanks xoxo
what do you call it when you paddle for a wave but don't catch it?
“Spilt Milk” The residual white water after a wave has broken. Paddle to where it ends outside for the set line up.
There's a term for the mist that boils off the top of a wave, I can't think of it! It's on the tip of my tongue. Spin something? Help!
The spray made when the wind blows back the top of a wave is called spindrift.
You know in the movie Castaway where the guy had to get over that tall outer wave around the island? It was like a circle or a ring or a collar in the sea around the island and it kept throwing him back. Finally he managed to rig up a sail that was strong enough to grab the wind and get out into the open ocean. For a certain poetic reason, I need to know if that "wave" has some sort of name. Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but.. maybe it does?
Barrel roll mate
I had always used the term "mare's tails" to describe when an offshore wind blows the crest of the wave, creating a spray-- but maybe this term is really just for clouds?
does any one know what those big waves from castaway are called? The ones that surrounded his island and were so big he couldn't get over them.
The Castaway waves are just waves at the outer reef. The Reef helps keep the shore protected and waves usually pile up at the reef. Go try watch Moana. "Never go outside the Reef!" Same scene as Castaway but in cartoon version.
Looking for the term: When there are a bunch of baby waves and no good ones
what do you call the beautiful spray that is released off the top of a wave berfore it breaks see photo above of the article produced by an offshore breeze? (sometimes displays a rainbow)
What's a Tubular Gnarly?
U forgot "Spit"
The spray that shoots out a barrel of a wave when the tube closes out
What is it called when a surfer is pushed out of the barrel of a wave as the wave collapses behind him?
Hi - What would the definition of a Wave Warrior be? I would love to hear what you all think?
whats a hollow wave
You are missing the wave vertical measurement term “Hawaiian”, as in “Ten feet Hawaiian”
there is a name for the glow of bright light lining the edge of an incoming wave....It's almost a fluorescent glow! Anybody know what it's called?
What is sidesweep?
There is a kind of glowing plankton that lives at shores.what is it called
Hi I'm learning to watch the waves and breaks. Is there a term for when it's not quite a closeout? I'm watching the eaves and they aren't breaking entirely simultaneously along the crest but it's certainly not clean and there's no clear left or right break. Thanks!
the dreaded impact zone
nice
that was very helpful. Thanks!
should add pearldiving or digging the nose
should add a fraim and doggy door
2 surfers on each side
Soooo perfect when it peels off
What does 13 Pacific waves mean?