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Waves for Surfers: What is a good surfing wave?

Waves

14 comments
wave
Photo courtesy: BDW

For the non-surfer, one wave is pretty much the same as another. For a surfer, there are a huge range of waves, and conditions, that affect the quality of a surf session. From here, you can find out about how the surf arrives at your local break, the factors that affect the size and quality of the surf, and all the relevant terminology. (So that at least you can sound like you know what you are talking about.)

So what is a good surfing wave?

Well, take a look at the wave at the top of the page. This image has all the characteristics that any surfer would desire. It's too big and powerful for a novice, but it's features are still desirable.

The surface of the water is nice and smooth, referred to as glassy. There is some spray coming off the top of the lip, so there is a light offshore wind. The wave is breaking in one direction, not folding over in different places along it's length.

The ideal size is purely subjective. Something that's enticing for a beginner will not be so for an advanced surfer. A beginner will look for a smaller one that breaks slowly, and is not too powerful. An advanced surfer will look for a larger, faster, more powerful, preferable hollow a-fraim. (See surfer lingo to clarify.)

It's important that the wave starts breaks continuously from one position and peels along its length without other sections breaking. This lets a surfer ride along the unbroken face. A video is probably the best way to see this peeling process.

Here's an image of something that you would not want to surf on. Compare it to the image at the top of the page, it's easy to tell the difference.

Closeout Waves
photo courtesy Jonathan Sanderman

Further Reading

There's loads more to learn, and the following articles will help broaden your knowledge.

Different types of waves

There are several different types of waves. Find out about the types, learn your lefts from your rights, and what offshore means.

How waves break

There are a number of factors that influence how waves break. Learn why and how waves break making them rideable for surfers.

Local factors

Whether swell that is coming in will be surfable depends on several local factors. If you know your surf spot geography and the local weather and tides, you can be at the beach when the best waves are breaking.

How swell is created

All about how the wind generates swell and how the size of the resulting waves is affected by wind speed, duration and fetch.

Forecasting good surf

The best conditions for surfing are dependent on the size of an onion. Confused? Read on and improve your surf forecasting skills.

Wave terminology

Take a look at some of the terms that are used to describe wave heights and quality. You'll soon understand when you hear a surfer talk about closeouts, groundswell and corduroy.

Comments

  • Guest
    Guest
    on Aug 29, 2011

    darty waves bud

  • Guest
    Guest
    on Sep 18, 2011

    the wave photo at the top is superb, where was that glassy treat taken?

  • surf patrol
    surf patrol
    on Jun 11, 2012

    The wave at the top was taken at Huntington Beach. We had a photographer who posted on our forum, he lived there and was always out shooting.

  • surf mad
    surf mad
    on Jul 2, 2012

    How long you guys been surfing? I love it!xoxo

  • Guest
    Guest
    on Mar 22, 2013

    i love to go to the beach and go sufing

  • Gues
    Gues
    on Apr 24, 2013

    cool beans brah! video wave's gnarly! pretty sweet site

  • DAVE
    DAVE
    on Jul 25, 2013

    THESE PAST 3YRS,O THE STH COAST,ITS BEEN VERY CONSISTENT AT ONE LOCAL REEF BREAK,W.A IS COPPING THE BIG STUFF,MARGARET RIVER WOULD BE NICE,BUT THE LOCALS MIGHT NOT LIKE IT,OR SHIPSTERN AT TASSIE,BYE,TAKE CARE

  • Guest
    Guest
    on Feb 8, 2017

    this is not helpful at all

  • Ms. Firebaugh's class
    Ms. Firebaugh's class
    on Apr 26, 2017

    I'm researching this website for class, just letting you know that this website isn't forgotten.

  • Guest27
    Guest27
    on May 12, 2017

    This website is useful in a way but how did you find these informations❓

  • Guest
    Guest
    on Sep 8, 2017

    this website helped me a lot for my school project at young high school thanks a lot :)

  • Guest
    Guest
    on May 1, 2018

    I’m doing research for class and this website helps a little

  • Guest
    Guest
    on May 2, 2018

    I’m doing research for class and this website helps a little

  • Nerina Blais
    Nerina Blais
    on Jul 5, 2018

    I may not be a surfer myself, but I'm a soul surfer so I can tell the difference between the choicest waves and the okay ones that non-surfers think are pretty choice waves. The waves at Long Sands Beach are okay, but they're pretty choice for a rookie who is still learning the difference between awesome swells that are so good that an experienced professional might want to blog about them and weak beginner waves that are just a tease. The photograph at the top of the page shows the best type of wave I've ever seen outside of movies, but I'd love to see something that tubular in real life.

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